Difference between revisions of "Fuel injectors"
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| Line 7: | Line 7: | ||
Tools Needed: | Tools Needed: | ||
| − | + | 10mm socket | |
| − | + | 12mm socket | |
Socket extension | Socket extension | ||
| Line 15: | Line 15: | ||
Needle-nose pliers | Needle-nose pliers | ||
| − | Die pick ( | + | Die pick (I used a thin flat screwdriver) |
A long, standard screwdriver | A long, standard screwdriver | ||
| − | T- | + | T-27 Torx bit |
RC Injectors can be bought direct from [http://www.rceng.com/] | RC Injectors can be bought direct from [http://www.rceng.com/] | ||
| Line 28: | Line 28: | ||
[[Image:RC PL8-550 vs Stock Injector.jpg]] | [[Image:RC PL8-550 vs Stock Injector.jpg]] | ||
| − | RC Engineering's replacement for the stock injector is part number PL2-320 (Peak and Hold, | + | RC Engineering's replacement for the stock injector is part number PL2-320 (Peak and Hold, Bosch connector, 320 cc/min) |
| − | Before removing any parts, you must | + | Before removing any parts, you must relieve pressure form the fuel system. While the car is running, pull the fuse for the fuel pump (I tripped the Inertia switch). After it stalls, crank the engine for a few seconds to remove as much remaining fuel from the fuel rail. Then perform the following steps: |
1. Disconnect the battery. | 1. Disconnect the battery. | ||
| − | 2. Remove the (2) | + | 2. Remove the (2) 10mm bolts holding the black plastic wire cover. |
3. Remove the small wire clips that hold the plastic electrical connectors to the injectors. This is possibly the toughest part of the job. Use the die pick in conjunction with the needle-nose pliers or a standard screwdriver. Be careful of the small plastic tab at the front of the connector. Also, do not drop the clips. | 3. Remove the small wire clips that hold the plastic electrical connectors to the injectors. This is possibly the toughest part of the job. Use the die pick in conjunction with the needle-nose pliers or a standard screwdriver. Be careful of the small plastic tab at the front of the connector. Also, do not drop the clips. | ||
| Line 46: | Line 46: | ||
[[Image:Fuel rail clip 1.JPG]] | [[Image:Fuel rail clip 1.JPG]] | ||
| − | 5. Remove the fuel pressure regulator. A T- | + | 5. Remove the fuel pressure regulator. A T-27 Torx screw and gently pry the regulator off the end of the fuel rail. It is held in by an O-ring. Mine was in there rather securely. Have an old rag underneath before removing as some gas will spill out from the rail. |
[[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator 1.JPG]] | [[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator 1.JPG]] | ||
| Line 52: | Line 52: | ||
[[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator.JPG]] | [[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator.JPG]] | ||
| − | 6. Remove the (2) | + | 6. Remove the (2) 12mm fuel rail bolts. |
| − | 7. Carefully push the fuel rail up. The injectors are held in place now only by their | + | 7. Carefully push the fuel rail up. The injectors are held in place now only by their O-rings, but they will be solidly in place. Work slow, maybe first at one end of the rail, then the other and it will pop up. (they were that solid I had to use a pry bar to remove the injectors) |
| − | 8. Remove the injectors. They will still be attached either in the rail or in the intake. Either pull or *gently* pry them out. (again | + | 8. Remove the injectors. They will still be attached either in the rail or in the intake. Either pull or *gently* pry them out. (again I had to use the pry bar to remove the injectors from the fuel rail) |
Before installing new injectors, compare them to the stock injectors. Make sure the o-rings are the same size; the distance between top and bottom o-rings is the same; and overall construction is similar. If all appear fine: | Before installing new injectors, compare them to the stock injectors. Make sure the o-rings are the same size; the distance between top and bottom o-rings is the same; and overall construction is similar. If all appear fine: | ||
| − | 1. Lightly coat the new injectors’ | + | 1. Lightly coat the new injectors’ O-rings in motor oil to aid installation. Push the injectors into the fuel rail first. |
2. Attach/slide the clips that hold the injectors onto the fuel rail. | 2. Attach/slide the clips that hold the injectors onto the fuel rail. | ||
| Line 68: | Line 68: | ||
3. Carefully line up the injectors into the plenum and gently push down on the rail until the bolt holes line up. | 3. Carefully line up the injectors into the plenum and gently push down on the rail until the bolt holes line up. | ||
| − | Replace the (2) | + | Replace the (2) 12mm fuel rail bolts. |
| − | 4. Lightly coat the fuel pressure regulator | + | 4. Lightly coat the fuel pressure regulator O-ring with motor oil and push into the end of the rail. Replace the T-27 Torx bolt. |
| − | 5. | + | 5. Carefully replace the small clips and plug the electrical connectors onto the injectors. The clips should snap into position when the connector is fully located. |
| − | 6. Replace the wire cover and connect the (2) | + | 6. Replace the wire cover and connect the (2) 10mm bolts. |
7. Connect the battery. | 7. Connect the battery. | ||
| Line 82: | Line 82: | ||
[[Image:RC Injectors installed.JPG]] | [[Image:RC Injectors installed.JPG]] | ||
| − | |||
== O-rings == | == O-rings == | ||
Revision as of 17:43, 14 April 2025
Removal
This is a quick write up for upgrading the Fuel Injectors to the RC PL8 550 Injectors for the Turbo upgrade. I used the write up by David R. Meyers which is in the Upgrade link on the LEC homepage [1] and as there is only one photo thought I'd post my photos here to help others in the future. So I'm just going to use Dave's write up with my photo's (hope he doesn`t mine)
Tools Needed:
10mm socket
12mm socket
Socket extension
Needle-nose pliers
Die pick (I used a thin flat screwdriver)
A long, standard screwdriver
T-27 Torx bit
RC Injectors can be bought direct from [2]
The RC PL8-550 (Bosch Style Top) compared to the stock injector
RC Engineering's replacement for the stock injector is part number PL2-320 (Peak and Hold, Bosch connector, 320 cc/min)
Before removing any parts, you must relieve pressure form the fuel system. While the car is running, pull the fuse for the fuel pump (I tripped the Inertia switch). After it stalls, crank the engine for a few seconds to remove as much remaining fuel from the fuel rail. Then perform the following steps:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the (2) 10mm bolts holding the black plastic wire cover.
3. Remove the small wire clips that hold the plastic electrical connectors to the injectors. This is possibly the toughest part of the job. Use the die pick in conjunction with the needle-nose pliers or a standard screwdriver. Be careful of the small plastic tab at the front of the connector. Also, do not drop the clips.
4. Slide the metal clips holding the injector to the fuel rail from left to right. Push first on the front part of the clip, then the rear with the long screwdriver.
5. Remove the fuel pressure regulator. A T-27 Torx screw and gently pry the regulator off the end of the fuel rail. It is held in by an O-ring. Mine was in there rather securely. Have an old rag underneath before removing as some gas will spill out from the rail.
6. Remove the (2) 12mm fuel rail bolts.
7. Carefully push the fuel rail up. The injectors are held in place now only by their O-rings, but they will be solidly in place. Work slow, maybe first at one end of the rail, then the other and it will pop up. (they were that solid I had to use a pry bar to remove the injectors)
8. Remove the injectors. They will still be attached either in the rail or in the intake. Either pull or *gently* pry them out. (again I had to use the pry bar to remove the injectors from the fuel rail)
Before installing new injectors, compare them to the stock injectors. Make sure the o-rings are the same size; the distance between top and bottom o-rings is the same; and overall construction is similar. If all appear fine:
1. Lightly coat the new injectors’ O-rings in motor oil to aid installation. Push the injectors into the fuel rail first.
2. Attach/slide the clips that hold the injectors onto the fuel rail.
3. Carefully line up the injectors into the plenum and gently push down on the rail until the bolt holes line up. Replace the (2) 12mm fuel rail bolts.
4. Lightly coat the fuel pressure regulator O-ring with motor oil and push into the end of the rail. Replace the T-27 Torx bolt.
5. Carefully replace the small clips and plug the electrical connectors onto the injectors. The clips should snap into position when the connector is fully located.
6. Replace the wire cover and connect the (2) 10mm bolts.
7. Connect the battery.
8. Turn the ignition key to the accessory position to prime the fuel pump. Check for any leaks. Start the car. Check for any leaks.
O-rings
Added by ashm 10/04/2022:
Fuel injector O-rings can degrade and start to leak over time, which can cause quite an impressive spray of fuel from the fuel rail connection when pressurised. Rockauto lists replacement O-rings as 0.296" ID x 0.574" OD, 0.139" CS (cross section) or 7.52mm ID x 14.58mm OD, 3.53mm CS. Although these may appear to be a very strange size (and certainly not metric), they are in fact a British Standard O-ring: searching for BS 203 makes things a lot easier. I believe the correct material should be Viton as it has good compatibility with petroleum. However it is only borderline tolerant of ethanol, which is increasingly included in standard fuel. NBR rubber is fairly compatible with both petroleum and ethanol, so may actually be a better option if you plan to run high ethanol fuel, but it may be inferior to Viton in other ways. Personally I'm sticking with Viton.
