Revision as of 22:39, 14 April 2025

Turbo

Known good equivalents

Borg-Warner BWD 57025

Standard Motor Products FJ559

Delphi 17089116

Possible budget alternatives

Defus 17089116 - From Aliexpress at a very reasonable price

Known close alternatives

RC Injectors can be bought direct from [1]

The RC PL8-550 (Bosch Style Top) compared to the stock injector

RC Engineering's replacement for the stock injector is part number PL2-320 (Peak and Hold, Bosch connector, 320 cc/min). Although some people have apparently successfully used the RC injectors, the size and form are not identical to the originals.

Normally aspirated

General

Replacing

This is a quick write up for upgrading the Fuel Injectors to the RC PL8 550 Injectors for the Turbo upgrade. I used the write up by David R. Meyers which is in the Upgrade link on the LEC homepage [2] and as there is only one photo thought I'd post my photos here to help others in the future. So I'm just going to use Dave's write up with my photos.

Tools

Tools Needed:

10mm socket

12mm socket

Socket extension

Needle-nose pliers

Die pick (I used a thin flat screwdriver)

A long, standard screwdriver

T-27 Torx bit

Removal

Before removing any parts, you must relieve pressure form the fuel system. While the car is running, pull the fuse for the fuel pump (I tripped the Inertia switch). After it stalls, crank the engine for a few seconds to remove as much remaining fuel from the fuel rail. Then perform the following steps:

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Remove the (2) 10mm bolts holding the black plastic wire cover.

3. Remove the small wire clips that hold the plastic electrical connectors to the injectors. This is possibly the toughest part of the job. Use the die pick in conjunction with the needle-nose pliers or a standard screwdriver. Be careful of the small plastic tab at the front of the connector. Also, do not drop the clips, but if you do, a magnet is your friend. It should also be possible to remove the connector by inserting two small screwdrivers on the front corner of the clips as this releases the side of the clip from the retaining lugs.

4. Slide the metal clips holding the injector to the fuel rail from right to left (when facing the engine). Push first on the front part of the clip, then the rear with the long screwdriver.

5. Remove the fuel pressure regulator. A T-27 Torx screw and gently pry the regulator off the end of the fuel rail. It is held in by an O-ring. Mine was in there rather securely. Have an old rag underneath before removing as some fuel will spill out from the rail.

6. Remove the (2) 12mm fuel rail bolts.

7. Carefully push the fuel rail up. The injectors are held in place now only by their O-rings, but they will be solidly in place. Work slow, maybe first at one end of the rail, then the other and it should pop up however mine were so solid that I had to use a pry bar to remove the injectors.

8. Remove the injectors. They will still be attached either in the rail or in the intake. Either pull or *gently* pry them out. Again I had to use the pry bar to remove the injectors from the fuel rail.

Reinstalling

Before installing new injectors, compare them to the stock injectors. Make sure the O-rings are the same size; the distance between top and bottom O-rings is the same; and overall construction is similar. If all appear fine:

1. Lightly coat the new injectors’ O-rings in motor oil to aid installation. Push the injectors into the fuel rail first.

2. Attach/slide the clips that hold the injectors onto the fuel rail to the right (facing the engine).

3. Carefully line up the injectors into the plenum and gently push down on the rail until the bolt holes line up.

4. Replace the (2) 12mm fuel rail bolts.

5. Lightly coat the fuel pressure regulator O-ring with motor oil and push into the end of the rail. Replace the T-27 Torx bolt.

6. Carefully replace the small clips and plug the electrical connectors onto the injectors. The clips should snap into position when the connector is fully located.

7. Replace the wire cover and connect the (2) 10mm bolts.

8. Connect the battery.

9. Turn the ignition key to the accessory position to prime the fuel pump. Check for any leaks. Start the car. Check for any leaks.

Technical

The Turbo injectors are 322cc/minute peak and hold with a 2.0 ohms coil.

http://www.robietherobot.com/storm/fuelinjectorguide.htm

O-rings

Added by ashm 10/04/2022:

Fuel injector O-rings can degrade and start to leak over time, which can cause quite an impressive spray of fuel from the fuel rail connection when pressurised. Rockauto lists replacement O-rings as 0.296" ID x 0.574" OD, 0.139" CS (cross section) or 7.52mm ID x 14.58mm OD, 3.53mm CS. Although these may appear to be a very strange size (and certainly not metric), they are in fact a British Standard O-ring: searching for BS 203 makes things a lot easier. I believe the correct material should be Viton as it has good compatibility with petroleum. However it is only borderline tolerant of ethanol, which is increasingly included in standard fuel. NBR rubber is fairly compatible with both petroleum and ethanol, so may actually be a better option if you plan to run high ethanol fuel, but it may be inferior to Viton in other ways. Personally I'm sticking with Viton.