Difference between revisions of "Fuel injectors"
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= Turbo = | = Turbo = | ||
| − | == Known good equivalents == | + | == Known good references and equivalents == |
| + | |||
| + | 8170866110 | ||
| + | |||
| + | 8171027250 | ||
Borg-Warner BWD 57025 | Borg-Warner BWD 57025 | ||
| Line 15: | Line 19: | ||
Defus 17089116 - From Aliexpress at a very reasonable price | Defus 17089116 - From Aliexpress at a very reasonable price | ||
| − | + | They are marked with the correct manufacturer code (8170866110) and physically are very similar (just 2mm shorter) BUT they are 2.7ohms and not 2.0ohms. | |
[[File:OEM_and_Defus.jpg|200px]] | [[File:OEM_and_Defus.jpg|200px]] | ||
| + | |||
| + | Update: Finally put the car in for an MoT and it passed no problem. Certainly feels fine with WOT all the way up to 7000 RPM. Geoff 25/03/2026 | ||
== Known close alternatives == | == Known close alternatives == | ||
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= Normally aspirated = | = Normally aspirated = | ||
| + | |||
| + | . | ||
= General = | = General = | ||
| Line 40: | Line 48: | ||
=== Tools === | === Tools === | ||
| − | Tools Needed | + | ==== Tools Needed ==== |
10mm socket | 10mm socket | ||
| Line 48: | Line 56: | ||
Socket extension | Socket extension | ||
| − | Needle-nose pliers | + | Needle-nose pliers and/or 6" cross leg tweezers |
Die pick (I used a thin flat screwdriver) | Die pick (I used a thin flat screwdriver) | ||
| Line 55: | Line 63: | ||
T-27 Torx bit | T-27 Torx bit | ||
| + | |||
| + | ==== Tools Optional ==== | ||
| + | |||
| + | A good torch | ||
| + | |||
| + | 14mm ring spanner - useful for guiding and aligning the top of the injectors when replacing | ||
| + | |||
| + | 3/8" flexible extension - useful for accessing the fuel pressure regulator (T-27) retaining bolt | ||
| + | |||
| + | Magnetic telescopic tool - to recover clips or bolts that will inevitably end up in a hard to access location like down the side of the alternator | ||
=== Removal === | === Removal === | ||
| Line 74: | Line 92: | ||
[[Image:Fuel rail clip 1.JPG]] | [[Image:Fuel rail clip 1.JPG]] | ||
| − | 5. Remove the fuel pressure regulator. A T-27 Torx screw and gently pry the regulator off the end of the fuel rail. It is held in by an O-ring. | + | 5. Remove the fuel pressure regulator. A T-27 Torx screw and gently pry the regulator off the end of the fuel rail. It is held in by an O-ring. It is held in rather securely as there is a retaining lip on the fuel rail but some penetrating oil made it a lot easier. Have an old rag underneath before removing as some fuel will spill out from the rail. |
[[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator 1.JPG]] | [[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator 1.JPG]] | ||
| Line 82: | Line 100: | ||
6. Remove the (2) 12mm fuel rail bolts. | 6. Remove the (2) 12mm fuel rail bolts. | ||
| − | 7. Carefully push the fuel rail up. The injectors are held in place now only by their O-rings, but they will be solidly in place. Work slow, maybe first at one end of the rail, then the other and it should pop up however mine were so solid that I had to use a pry bar to remove the injectors. | + | 7. Carefully push the fuel rail up. The injectors are held in place now only by their O-rings, but they will be solidly in place. Work slow, maybe first at one end of the rail, then the other and it should pop up however mine were so solid that I had to use a pry bar to remove the injectors. A spray of penetrating makes the job a lot easier. |
8. Remove the injectors. They will still be attached either in the rail or in the intake. Either pull or *gently* pry them out. Again I had to use the pry bar to remove the injectors from the fuel rail. | 8. Remove the injectors. They will still be attached either in the rail or in the intake. Either pull or *gently* pry them out. Again I had to use the pry bar to remove the injectors from the fuel rail. | ||
| Line 104: | Line 122: | ||
6. Carefully replace the small clips and plug the electrical connectors onto the injectors. The clips should snap into position when the connector is fully located. | 6. Carefully replace the small clips and plug the electrical connectors onto the injectors. The clips should snap into position when the connector is fully located. | ||
| − | 7. Replace the wire cover and connect the (2) 10mm bolts. | + | 7. Replace the wire cover and connect the (2) 10mm bolts, making sure the spacers are in place in the plastic lugs. |
8. Connect the battery. | 8. Connect the battery. | ||
Latest revision as of 19:08, 25 March 2026
Contents
Turbo
Known good references and equivalents
8170866110
8171027250
Borg-Warner BWD 57025
Standard Motor Products FJ559
Delphi 17089116
Possible budget alternatives
Defus 17089116 - From Aliexpress at a very reasonable price
They are marked with the correct manufacturer code (8170866110) and physically are very similar (just 2mm shorter) BUT they are 2.7ohms and not 2.0ohms.
Update: Finally put the car in for an MoT and it passed no problem. Certainly feels fine with WOT all the way up to 7000 RPM. Geoff 25/03/2026
Known close alternatives
RC Injectors can be bought direct from [1]
The RC PL8-550 (Bosch Style Top) compared to the stock injector
RC Engineering's replacement for the stock injector is part number PL2-320 (Peak and Hold, Bosch connector, 320 cc/min). Although some people have apparently successfully used the RC injectors, the size and form are not identical to the originals.
Normally aspirated
.
General
Replacing
This is a quick write up for upgrading the Fuel Injectors to the RC PL8 550 Injectors for the Turbo upgrade. I used the write up by David R. Meyers which is in the Upgrade link on the LEC homepage [2] and as there is only one photo thought I'd post my photos here to help others in the future. So I'm just going to use Dave's write up with my photos.
Tools
Tools Needed
10mm socket
12mm socket
Socket extension
Needle-nose pliers and/or 6" cross leg tweezers
Die pick (I used a thin flat screwdriver)
A long, standard screwdriver
T-27 Torx bit
Tools Optional
A good torch
14mm ring spanner - useful for guiding and aligning the top of the injectors when replacing
3/8" flexible extension - useful for accessing the fuel pressure regulator (T-27) retaining bolt
Magnetic telescopic tool - to recover clips or bolts that will inevitably end up in a hard to access location like down the side of the alternator
Removal
Before removing any parts, you must relieve pressure form the fuel system. While the car is running, pull the fuse for the fuel pump (I tripped the Inertia switch). After it stalls, crank the engine for a few seconds to remove as much remaining fuel from the fuel rail. Then perform the following steps:
1. Disconnect the battery.
2. Remove the (2) 10mm bolts holding the black plastic wire cover.
3. Remove the small wire clips that hold the plastic electrical connectors to the injectors. This is possibly the toughest part of the job. Use the die pick in conjunction with the needle-nose pliers or a standard screwdriver. Be careful of the small plastic tab at the front of the connector. Also, do not drop the clips, but if you do, a magnet is your friend. It should also be possible to remove the connector by inserting two small screwdrivers on the front corner of the clips as this releases the side of the clip from the retaining lugs.
4. Slide the metal clips holding the injector to the fuel rail from right to left (when facing the engine). Push first on the front part of the clip, then the rear with the long screwdriver.
5. Remove the fuel pressure regulator. A T-27 Torx screw and gently pry the regulator off the end of the fuel rail. It is held in by an O-ring. It is held in rather securely as there is a retaining lip on the fuel rail but some penetrating oil made it a lot easier. Have an old rag underneath before removing as some fuel will spill out from the rail.
6. Remove the (2) 12mm fuel rail bolts.
7. Carefully push the fuel rail up. The injectors are held in place now only by their O-rings, but they will be solidly in place. Work slow, maybe first at one end of the rail, then the other and it should pop up however mine were so solid that I had to use a pry bar to remove the injectors. A spray of penetrating makes the job a lot easier.
8. Remove the injectors. They will still be attached either in the rail or in the intake. Either pull or *gently* pry them out. Again I had to use the pry bar to remove the injectors from the fuel rail.
Reinstalling
Before installing new injectors, compare them to the stock injectors. Make sure the O-rings are the same size; the distance between top and bottom O-rings is the same; and overall construction is similar. If all appear fine:
1. Lightly coat the new injectors’ O-rings in motor oil to aid installation. Push the injectors into the fuel rail first.
2. Attach/slide the clips that hold the injectors onto the fuel rail to the right (facing the engine).
3. Carefully line up the injectors into the plenum and gently push down on the rail until the bolt holes line up.
4. Replace the (2) 12mm fuel rail bolts.
5. Lightly coat the fuel pressure regulator O-ring with motor oil and push into the end of the rail. Replace the T-27 Torx bolt.
6. Carefully replace the small clips and plug the electrical connectors onto the injectors. The clips should snap into position when the connector is fully located.
7. Replace the wire cover and connect the (2) 10mm bolts, making sure the spacers are in place in the plastic lugs.
8. Connect the battery.
9. Turn the ignition key to the accessory position to prime the fuel pump. Check for any leaks. Start the car. Check for any leaks.
Technical
The Turbo injectors are 322cc/minute peak and hold with a 2.0 ohms coil.
http://www.robietherobot.com/storm/fuelinjectorguide.htm
O-rings
Added by ashm 10/04/2022:
Fuel injector O-rings can degrade and start to leak over time, which can cause quite an impressive spray of fuel from the fuel rail connection when pressurised. Rockauto lists replacement O-rings as 0.296" ID x 0.574" OD, 0.139" CS (cross section) or 7.52mm ID x 14.58mm OD, 3.53mm CS. Although these may appear to be a very strange size (and certainly not metric), they are in fact a British Standard O-ring: searching for BS 203 makes things a lot easier. I believe the correct material should be Viton as it has good compatibility with petroleum. However it is only borderline tolerant of ethanol, which is increasingly included in standard fuel. NBR rubber is fairly compatible with both petroleum and ethanol, so may actually be a better option if you plan to run high ethanol fuel, but it may be inferior to Viton in other ways. Personally I'm sticking with Viton.
