Difference between revisions of "Cam belt replacement"
(New page: Remove the bottom pulley: Bottom_(crank)_pulley_removal Remove the offside engine mount: Engine_mount_removal_(O/S) WORK IN PROGRESS!!!!) |
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| − | + | '''''Please read in conjunction with Lotus Service Manuals''''' | |
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| + | [[Bottom_(crank)_pulley_removal|Remove the bottom pulley]] | ||
| − | + | [[Engine_mount_removal_(O/S)|Remove the offside engine mount]] | |
| − | + | You can now get to the plastic cam belt cover and remove all of the bolts (10mm head) from it, lifting it away to gain access to the bits inside! | |
| + | |||
| + | The tensioner and water pump bolts were all easy to get at and undo (might be a bit harder with the head still on, though, but quite possible). The only tight one was the idler pulley which is on the head, so at least it is easier to reach. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Remember to clean the face where the water pump joins the block with emery cloth to ensure a good joint, use a new gasket and tighten all 5 bolts (12mm head) evenly to keep the pump ‘flat’ to the block. | ||
| + | |||
| + | When replacing the tensioner, the spring has to go the right way round, and can be a bit fiddly – perseverance from underneath was the way I got it done, but with flexible, thin fingers, it should be possible from above. | ||
| + | |||
| + | With the new timing belt fitted, tension the belt from underneath using a 10mm spanner and a 5mm allen key to get the tension correct (as per the manual). Then replace the plastic cover – it is easier than tensioning it through the hole in the cover (with the rubber bung). | ||
Revision as of 23:33, 11 July 2007
Please read in conjunction with Lotus Service Manuals
Remove the offside engine mount
You can now get to the plastic cam belt cover and remove all of the bolts (10mm head) from it, lifting it away to gain access to the bits inside!
The tensioner and water pump bolts were all easy to get at and undo (might be a bit harder with the head still on, though, but quite possible). The only tight one was the idler pulley which is on the head, so at least it is easier to reach.
Remember to clean the face where the water pump joins the block with emery cloth to ensure a good joint, use a new gasket and tighten all 5 bolts (12mm head) evenly to keep the pump ‘flat’ to the block.
When replacing the tensioner, the spring has to go the right way round, and can be a bit fiddly – perseverance from underneath was the way I got it done, but with flexible, thin fingers, it should be possible from above.
With the new timing belt fitted, tension the belt from underneath using a 10mm spanner and a 5mm allen key to get the tension correct (as per the manual). Then replace the plastic cover – it is easier than tensioning it through the hole in the cover (with the rubber bung).
