Al: Add a bit of formatting

2008-03-14T16:38:46Z

Add a bit of formatting

Dapinky: New page: I got some green tint window (the thicker stuff) from a trimmers. it is/was the green tint mgf rear hood. it cost £30 and i asked for some heavy duty thread. i removed the whole hood ...

2008-03-07T00:28:45Z

New page: I got some green tint window (the thicker stuff) from a trimmers. it is/was the green tint mgf rear hood. it cost £30 and i asked for some heavy duty thread. i removed the whole hood ...

New page

I got some green tint window (the thicker stuff) from a trimmers.
it is/was the green tint mgf rear hood.
it cost £30 and i asked for some heavy duty thread.

i removed the whole hood and frame.
this is joined down inside where the b post caps are.

you will have to peel back the carpet sections as this is where the screws hold the b post rear sections to the car.

you do not have to take then off , just give yourself enough room to get you hands down to remove the little 7mm and 8mm captivated nuts of the strange shaped bracket.. be carefull not to drop them down as it will end up down by the sill.

take the roof off and don't bend it.
i placed / screwed mine on a rigid old work table and propped the header rail up with some beer crates.

remove the original rear screen by unpicking the stitching that in nearest to the window NOT the other one.

i then used the old window as a template and cut it to size.

then place the new window in and tack it back where you have just removed the old window.

tack between the old removed thread and the still present thread.
THE ROOF MUST BE TAUT/FULL OPEN for this and must stay that way untill finished.

if you have not removed both stitching seams then the new window should be comfortably resting on the outer stitch .

now all you need do is !!!

aquire 1x friend/partner to give up 8 tedious hours .

you lay on the table , on the inside of the roof ( in the up postion resting on beer crates) with you head toward the nice new clear window .

the person on the "other side" needs to feed through with a heavy duty upholstery needle through to you. and you to feed it back to them.

quite obvious really.

it would pay for the sake of your fingers to pass the needle through and return with some long nose pliers.

the roof must stay tight at all time.

if it looks like it is causing a ruck , cut the thread back to where it started. this is why so many "rear window only " jobs look creased or rinkled.

do the window in sections so you don't have to pull meters of the thread through all the time..

if you have picked the stitches out rather than ripping them out the the old holes will be clean enough to use . this should give a more professional look. and if your new thread is thicker that the original thread then it will still push through with a little resistance.

by the time you have gone all the way round ( you fingers will be hurting) but you should have got the hang of it !

so much so that your first few inches of stitching will look rubish and you may well remove that and replace it with your much improved level of stitching.

always overlap your stiching by a good amount say 1". tie off about 10 times/loops and then feed the loose thread back through the 10 loops and use a dab of with superglue..

this job was time consuming but the costs involved are low.

Coppied from a forum entry by "CLEMO"

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 I got some green tint window (the thicker stuff) from a trimmers.
-i removed the whole hood and frame.
+It is/was the green tint MGF rear hood. It cost £30 and I also asked for some heavy duty thread.
-this is joined down inside where the b post caps are.
-you will have to peel back the carpet sections as this is where the screws hold the b post rear sections to the car.
+=== Process ===
-you do not have to take then off , just give yourself enough room to get you hands down to remove the little 7mm and 8mm captivated nuts of the strange shaped bracket.. be carefull not to drop them down as it will end up down by the sill.
+* Take the roof off and don't bend it.
-take the roof off and don't bend it.
+* Remove the original rear screen by unpicking the stitching that in nearest to the window NOT the other one.
-i placed / screwed mine on a rigid old work table and propped the header rail up with some beer crates.
+* Use the old window as a template and cut the replacement to size.
-remove the original rear screen by unpicking the stitching that in nearest to the window NOT the other one.
+'''THE ROOF MUST BE TAUT/FULLY OPEN for this and must stay that way until finished.'''
-i then used the old window as a template and cut it to size.
+* If you have not removed both stitching seams then the new window should be comfortably resting on the outer stitch.
-then place the new window in and tack it back where you have just removed the old window.
+* Now all you need do is:
-tack between the old removed thread and the still present thread.
+'''The roof must stay tight at all time.'''
-THE ROOF MUST BE TAUT/FULL OPEN for this and must stay that way untill finished.
-if you have not removed both stitching seams then the new window should be comfortably resting on the outer stitch .
+* If it looks like it is causing a ruck, cut the thread back to where it started. This is why so many "rear window only " jobs look creased or wrinkled.
-now all you need do is !!!
+* Do the window in sections so you don't have to pull meters of the thread through all the time.
-aquire 1x friend/partner to give up 8 tedious hours .
+If you have picked the stitches out rather than ripping them out the the old holes will be clean enough to use . this should give a more professional look. If your new thread is thicker that the original thread then it will still push through with a little resistance.
-you lay on the table , on the inside of the roof ( in the up postion resting on beer crates) with you head toward the nice new clear window .
+By the time you have gone all the way round (You'll know because your fingers will be hurting) you should have got the hang of it,
-the person on the "other side" needs to feed through with a heavy duty upholstery needle through to you. and you to feed it back to them.
+Always overlap your stitching by a good amount, say 1".
-quite obvious really.
+This job was time consuming but the costs involved are low.
-it would pay for the sake of your fingers to pass the needle through and return with some long nose pliers.
+Copied from a forum entry by "CLEMO"
-the roof must stay tight at all time.
+[[Category:HowTo]]
-−
-if it looks like it is causing a ruck , cut the thread back to where it started. this is why so many "rear window only " jobs look creased or rinkled.
-−
-do the window in sections so you don't have to pull meters of the thread through all the time..
-−
-if you have picked the stitches out rather than ripping them out the the old holes will be clean enough to use . this should give a more professional look. and if your new thread is thicker that the original thread then it will still push through with a little resistance.
-−
-by the time you have gone all the way round ( you fingers will be hurting) but you should have got the hang of it !
-−
-so much so that your first few inches of stitching will look rubish and you may well remove that and replace it with your much improved level of stitching.
-−
-always overlap your stiching by a good amount say 1". tie off about 10 times/loops and then feed the loose thread back through the 10 loops and use a dab of with superglue..
-−
-this job was time consuming but the costs involved are low.
-−
-Coppied from a forum entry by "CLEMO"

Rear window replacement - Revision history

Al: Add a bit of formatting

Dapinky: New page: I got some green tint window (the thicker stuff) from a trimmers. it is/was the green tint mgf rear hood. it cost £30 and i asked for some heavy duty thread. i removed the whole hood ...