Light motors - Revision history

Geoff: Removed the original section on using glue sticks

2020-08-25T11:12:26Z

Removed the original section on using glue sticks

Madbilly: /* Spares */

2017-06-13T13:11:04Z

‎Spares

Elan SE: /* Spares */

2011-01-23T15:46:58Z

‎Spares

Elan SE: /* Spares */

2011-01-23T15:46:24Z

‎Spares

Elan SE: /* Symptoms */

2010-10-02T20:21:27Z

‎Symptoms

Elan SE: /* Symptoms */

2010-10-02T20:18:54Z

‎Symptoms

Elan SE: /* Symptoms */

2010-10-02T20:18:05Z

‎Symptoms

Elan SE: /* Symptoms */

2010-10-02T20:17:02Z

‎Symptoms

Geoff: /* Symptoms */

2009-10-16T21:57:03Z

‎Symptoms

Foo: Category:Components

2008-05-10T17:39:16Z

Category:Components

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:12, 25 August 2020
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	'''WARNING: If you remove the motor completely, make sure it is replaced in the same orientation otherwise you will end up with winking or inverse headlights - the pod will be raised when the headlight is off and will descend when the headlight is on!'''		'''WARNING: If you remove the motor completely, make sure it is replaced in the same orientation otherwise you will end up with winking or inverse headlights - the pod will be raised when the headlight is off and will descend when the headlight is on!'''

−	~~[[Image:Light_gear.gif‎]]~~
−
−	The Gear is primarily comprised of three parts, the Plastic section carries the Gear Teeth and forms part of the Hub. The second part is a Die-cast assembly with an integral Shaft, and the third part is the substance that fills the space between the Die-cast ‘Clover Leaf’ and the correspondingly shaped but larger cavity inside the Plastic Hub.
−
−	Inside mine I found a granular filling not unlike Cane Sugar Crystals, both in color and form. I’m guessing that the original condition of this material was rubber-like, giving the drive mechanism some flexibility (Otherwise there would be no reason for the huge clearance between the two parts ?).
−
−	~~After thoroughly cleaning and de-greasing each part, I chose to use an RTV Silicone Adhesive to fill the Hub prior to re-assembling with the Shaft.~~
−
−	Once the adhesive has cured you can test your patience by attempting to get the Motor Housing to mate to the main Gear Housing. The tricky part here is holding the Carbon Brushes against their springs as you lower the Motor Shaft. In order to hold the Brush’s apart through an ever decreasing gap, you will need to use something that can hook the Brush connection wires, yet be no thicker than 1/8 inch. I used half of two Cotter Pins, but I should think that a Paper Clip or similar could be modified to achieve the same end.
−
−	~~Apart from the Carbon Brushes, the repair is very simple, and it could just save you the $170 cost for a new part.~~
−
	=== Headlamp Motor Fix ===		=== Headlamp Motor Fix ===

@@ Line 8: / Line 8: @@
 === Spares ===
-Where to get the spares to repair your broken motors http://www.rodneydickman.com/
+Where to get the spares to repair your broken motors: http://www.rodneydickman.com/
-Update, SJ Lotus now do a similar kit
+Update, SJ Lotus now do a similar kit:
 SJ082M0033 OVERHAUL KIT for HEADLAMP MOTORS, Includes drive rollers, gaskets, screws and instructions. Sufficient for a pair of motors.
 SJ082M0034 Plastic drive gear as opposed to an upgraded rodneydickman metal vareient.
 What you will get in a new rodneydickman kit...

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:46, 23 January 2011
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	SJ082M0033 OVERHAUL KIT for HEADLAMP MOTORS, Includes drive rollers, gaskets, screws and instructions. Sufficient for a pair of motors.		SJ082M0033 OVERHAUL KIT for HEADLAMP MOTORS, Includes drive rollers, gaskets, screws and instructions. Sufficient for a pair of motors.
		+
	SJ082M0034 Plastic drive gear as opposed to an upgraded rodneydickman metal vareient.		SJ082M0034 Plastic drive gear as opposed to an upgraded rodneydickman metal vareient.

@@ Line 11: / Line 11: @@
 Where to get the spares to repair your broken motors http://www.rodneydickman.com/
-What you will get in a new kit...
+Update, SJ Lotus now do a similar kit
 [[Image:Light Motors 1.jpg]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:21, 2 October 2010
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	http://s615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/Elan_SE/?action=view&current=100_1236.mp4		http://s615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/Elan_SE/?action=view&current=100_1236.mp4
−
−	~~This has never happened to me... but a friend of mine had this problem and this is what I, I mean he, did to cure it.~~

	=== Spares ===		=== Spares ===

@@ Line 5: / Line 5: @@
 An intermittent head light motor
-URL=http://s615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/Elan_SE/?action=view&current=100_1236.mp4
+http://s615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/Elan_SE/?action=view&current=100_1236.mp4
 This has never happened to me... but a friend of mine had this problem and this is what I, I mean he, did to cure it.

@@ Line 13: / Line 13: @@
 [[Image:Full_light_motor.jpg‎ ]]
 After removing the the Headlamp Motor from the car, it is pretty simple to remove the three screws ‘A’ (English size I recall) holding the Gear Drive Cover to access the Plastic Driven Gear which was the root of my Headlamps impotence. To remove this Gear, I found that it was necessary to raise the Motor Housing by taking the two retaining screws 'B' out and lifting the Motor about ¼ inch, at which point the Motor’s two spring-loaded Carbon Brushes step off the Commutator and come to rest on a smaller diameter section of the Motor Shaft, but at least you can now remove the Plastic Gear and begin the repair.
 [[Image:Light_gear.gif‎]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:39, 10 May 2008
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	[[Category:HowTo]]		[[Category:HowTo]]
		+	[[Category:Components]]