Instrument panel dimmer knob removal - Revision history

JonT at 20:59, 15 February 2011

2011-02-15T20:59:29Z

JonT at 20:58, 15 February 2011

2011-02-15T20:58:31Z

JonT: Added instructions for replacing potentiometer with alternate part

2011-02-15T20:58:11Z

Added instructions for replacing potentiometer with alternate part

Al at 14:30, 3 January 2008

2008-01-03T14:30:19Z

Geoff: New page: The knob actually has a lid cap on the front (the area where they screened the graphic icon). They did too good a job there, so you can't really see the gap -- unlike on the dash, panels, ...

2007-09-23T13:44:52Z

New page: The knob actually has a lid cap on the front (the area where they screened the graphic icon). They did too good a job there, so you can't really see the gap -- unlike on the dash, panels, ...

New page

The knob actually has a lid cap on the front (the area where they screened the graphic icon). They did too good a job there, so you can't really see the gap -- unlike on the dash, panels, etc.

With a lot of luck, and a really tiny flat head screw driver (jewellery type) or scalpel blade, you might be able to open the lid without damaging the knob.

There's a nut holding it inside. You could tighten it up once you have the cap opened. To get the lid out is the tricky part.

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:59, 15 February 2011
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	Follow the wiring diagram [http://wikilec.9600.org/images/4/44/MJ25-22_Rheostat_and_Panel_Illumination.gif here] when re-soldering the new potentiometer - the connectors are all the in same place as the old one so can easily be transposed across.		Follow the wiring diagram [http://wikilec.9600.org/images/4/44/MJ25-22_Rheostat_and_Panel_Illumination.gif here] when re-soldering the new potentiometer - the connectors are all the in same place as the old one so can easily be transposed across.

		+	Refitting is reverse of removal!

	[[Category:HowTo]]		[[Category:HowTo]]

@@ Line 7: / Line 7: @@
 Once this has been removed, you can see the potentiometer shaft behind. If the potentiometer is suspect, Farnell offer an almost identical replacement part: [http://uk.farnell.com/vishay-sfernice/pe30l0fl103kab/potentiometer-10k/dp/1141587?Ntt=1141587 Farnell UK link]. In case this link stops working, it's manufactured by Vishay-Sfernice and their part number is PE30L0FL103KAB
 It can be seen side by side with the original here (original part on the left):
 [[Image:Dash_pot_alternate.jpg]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:58, 15 February 2011
Line 4:		Line 4:

	There's a nut holding it inside. You could tighten it up once you have the cap opened. To get the lid out is the tricky part.		There's a nut holding it inside. You could tighten it up once you have the cap opened. To get the lid out is the tricky part.
		+
		+	Once this has been removed, you can see the potentiometer shaft behind. If the potentiometer is suspect, Farnell offer an almost identical replacement part: [http://uk.farnell.com/vishay-sfernice/pe30l0fl103kab/potentiometer-10k/dp/1141587?Ntt=1141587 Farnell UK link]. In case this link stops working, it's manufactured by Vishay-Sfernice and their part number is PE30L0FL103KAB
		+	It can be seen side by side with the original here (original part on the left):
		+	[[Image:Dash_pot_alternate.jpg]]
		+
		+	The threaded section is slightly larger diameter than the original, while the end of the spindle is marginally narrower. It comes with a panel mounting nut and washer so this difference doesn't matter. The narrower spindle can be overcome by wrapping the end of the spindle with a single turn of electrical tape. This allows the knob to grip it properly.
		+
		+	To remove the potentiometer from the dash, remove the instrument binnacle cover. The potentiometer connector can be seen in this photo through the windscreen (circled in red):
		+	[[Image:Dash_pot_removal.jpg]]
		+
		+	In my car this was taped with electrical tape to a parallel section of wire - the tape can be carefully pulled off or cut, being careful not to nick any other wires.
		+
		+	With the nut on the front of the panel removed, and the connector free, the potentiometer can the be removed:
		+	[[Image:Dash_pot.jpg]]
		+
		+	Carefully remove the heatshrink from the connectors, then desolder the wires. One or more may already be loose - explaining any problems!
		+
		+	Follow the wiring diagram [http://wikilec.9600.org/images/4/44/MJ25-22_Rheostat_and_Panel_Illumination.gif here] when re-soldering the new potentiometer - the connectors are all the in same place as the old one so can easily be transposed across.
		+

	[[Category:HowTo]]		[[Category:HowTo]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:30, 3 January 2008
Line 4:		Line 4:

	There's a nut holding it inside. You could tighten it up once you have the cap opened. To get the lid out is the tricky part.		There's a nut holding it inside. You could tighten it up once you have the cap opened. To get the lid out is the tricky part.
		+
		+	[[Category:HowTo]]