Headlamps - Revision history

Fredjohn at 11:38, 22 November 2021

2021-11-22T11:38:13Z

Geoff: /* Lift module issues with LED headlights */

2020-10-27T18:54:20Z

‎Lift module issues with LED headlights

Geoff: /* Lift module issues */

2020-10-27T18:53:54Z

‎Lift module issues

Geoff: /* Lift module issues */

2020-10-27T18:53:37Z

‎Lift module issues

Geoff: /* LED */

2020-10-27T18:52:36Z

‎LED

Geoff at 12:44, 7 October 2020

2020-10-07T12:44:23Z

Geoff: Geoff moved page Headlamp replacement to Headlamps without leaving a redirect

2020-10-07T12:24:54Z

Geoff moved page Headlamp replacement to Headlamps without leaving a redirect

Donsladek: /* Replacement retaining rings */

2017-01-07T19:49:47Z

‎Replacement retaining rings

Cutlea01 at 00:37, 23 November 2009

2009-11-23T00:37:10Z

Cutlea01 at 19:13, 22 November 2009

2009-11-22T19:13:23Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:38, 22 November 2021
Line 94:		Line 94:
	[http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v208/matt_d_78/?action=view&current=22e49083.pbw Pictorial guide]		[http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v208/matt_d_78/?action=view&current=22e49083.pbw Pictorial guide]

		+	'''Durite update from Tuga2112(Jaoa) Nov 2021'''

		+	Cross Reference:
		+	Durite 0-422-75, Ring R8731, Hella 1M3534LSA001, Wipac S8100 & LA1016

		+	Durite 0-422-76, Ring R8712, Hella 1M3114178001, Cibie 082369

@@ Line 38: / Line 38: @@
 PNM have developed an LED replacement kit and others are looking into cheaper versions.
-==== Lift module issues with LED headlights====
+==== Pod lift module issues with LED headlights====
 One of the issues with LED replacements is that the electrical load of the LED units is not sufficient to trigger the lift module and the headlights stay in the raised position. The problem has been solved by PNM who include a resistor (of unknown value) inside one of the headlight modules. The quick fix solution would be to add a resistor equal to the headlight resistance across the LED units: This is guaranteed to work, however it requires a 4 ohm resistor rated at more than 50W!

@@ Line 38: / Line 38: @@
 PNM have developed an LED replacement kit and others are looking into cheaper versions.
-==== Lift module issues ====
+==== Lift module issues with LED headlights====
 One of the issues with LED replacements is that the electrical load of the LED units is not sufficient to trigger the lift module and the headlights stay in the raised position. The problem has been solved by PNM who include a resistor (of unknown value) inside one of the headlight modules. The quick fix solution would be to add a resistor equal to the headlight resistance across the LED units: This is guaranteed to work, however it requires a 4 ohm resistor rated at more than 50W!

@@ Line 40: / Line 40: @@
 ==== Lift module issues ====
-One of the issues with LED replacements is that the electrical load of the LED units is not sufficient to trigger the lift module and the headlights stay in the raised position. The problem has been solved by PNM who include a resistor (of unknown value) inside one of the headlight modules. The quick fix solution would be to add a resistor equal to the headlight resistance across the LED units: This is guaranteed to work, however it requires a 4 ohm resistor rated at 50W!
+One of the issues with LED replacements is that the electrical load of the LED units is not sufficient to trigger the lift module and the headlights stay in the raised position. The problem has been solved by PNM who include a resistor (of unknown value) inside one of the headlight modules. The quick fix solution would be to add a resistor equal to the headlight resistance across the LED units: This is guaranteed to work, however it requires a 4 ohm resistor rated at more than 50W!
 The path to ground (through the headlight filaments) is required to activate the relay which drives the headlight motors in the pod lift module. I have investigated the current required to reliably operate the module (between 100 & 120 ohms off the battery (12V) and between 120 & 150 ohms with the engine running) so 100 ohms will provide a reliable solution. Absolute maximum power dissipation (battery charging voltage of 14.4V) will be exceed 2 W so a 3 or 5 W resistor will suffice. Mark Elvin has successfully trialled a 100 ohm 5 W resistor with LED headlights and pod operation appears to be consistent.

@@ Line 42: / Line 42: @@
 One of the issues with LED replacements is that the electrical load of the LED units is not sufficient to trigger the lift module and the headlights stay in the raised position. The problem has been solved by PNM who include a resistor (of unknown value) inside one of the headlight modules. The quick fix solution would be to add a resistor equal to the headlight resistance across the LED units: This is guaranteed to work, however it requires a 4 ohm resistor rated at 50W!
-The path to ground (through the headlight filaments) is required to activate the relay which drives the headlight motors in the pod lift module. I have investigated the current required to reliably operate the module (between 100 & 120 ohms off the battery (12V) and between 120 & 150 ohms with the engine running) so a 100 should provide a reliable solution. Maximum power dissipation will be less than 2¼ W so a 5 W resistor will suffice.
+The path to ground (through the headlight filaments) is required to activate the relay which drives the headlight motors in the pod lift module. I have investigated the current required to reliably operate the module (between 100 & 120 ohms off the battery (12V) and between 120 & 150 ohms with the engine running) so 100 ohms will provide a reliable solution. Absolute maximum power dissipation (battery charging voltage of 14.4V) will be exceed 2 W so a 3 or 5 W resistor will suffice. Mark Elvin has successfully trialled a 100 ohm 5 W resistor with LED headlights and pod operation appears to be consistent.
-Geoff 7/10/2020
+Geoff 27/10/2020
 == Rust ==

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 __TOC__
 == Replacement headlamps ==
 Can be sourced from Lotus, but expensive, if still available.
@@ Line 41: / Line 34: @@
 The lamps themselves will also not quite fit into the plastic retainer ring, one of the location lugs is not quite in the right place.  There's two options; either cut off the lug, or cut the plastic retaining ring to suit.  A Dremel or similar is useful here.
-== Replacement retaining rings ==
+PNM have developed an LED replacement kit and others are looking into cheaper versions.
 Replacement headlamp retaining rings are no longer available from Lotus.
@@ Line 60: / Line 77: @@
 While replacing the headlamps or rings, you'll also find the small screws that retain the entire assembly to the headlamp pods have probably rusted, if these snap off while removing them or require drilling out, they are M4 thread, and replacements should be 20mm non-countersunk screws, I used stainless socket heads.  Fairly easy job to drill the remains out from the locating plates and retap.  The adjusting screws going through the springs seem to survive and don't require replacing.
 Added 1/7/2017 by donsladek - Plastic replacements are now available courtesy of 1kenobitoby on LEC through Shapeways:
 https://www.shapeways.com/shops/1kenobitoby
 == Headlamp fitting picture guide ==

← Older revision	Revision as of 12:24, 7 October 2020
(No difference)

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:49, 7 January 2017
Line 61:		Line 61:
	While replacing the headlamps or rings, you'll also find the small screws that retain the entire assembly to the headlamp pods have probably rusted, if these snap off while removing them or require drilling out, they are M4 thread, and replacements should be 20mm non-countersunk screws, I used stainless socket heads. Fairly easy job to drill the remains out from the locating plates and retap. The adjusting screws going through the springs seem to survive and don't require replacing.		While replacing the headlamps or rings, you'll also find the small screws that retain the entire assembly to the headlamp pods have probably rusted, if these snap off while removing them or require drilling out, they are M4 thread, and replacements should be 20mm non-countersunk screws, I used stainless socket heads. Fairly easy job to drill the remains out from the locating plates and retap. The adjusting screws going through the springs seem to survive and don't require replacing.

		+	Added 1/7/2017 by donsladek - Plastic replacements are now available courtesy of 1kenobitoby on LEC through Shapeways:
		+
		+	https://www.shapeways.com/shops/1kenobitoby

	== Headlamp fitting picture guide ==		== Headlamp fitting picture guide ==

@@ Line 38: / Line 38: @@
 If you change the light units to the Durite items then you'll also need to change the outer dipped headlamp bulb plug on the headlamp wires as they take a differnt bulb (H4 rather than H1, same as the high beam), easy to get and do, just ensure you wire to the correct bulb terminal, i.e. the other one from the high beam as connected to the standard high beam plug on the inner headlamp units.
@@ Line 54: / Line 56: @@
-They're not perfect, but at least they're the right diameter, 2 of the 3 lugs will line up, the third is not used and needs to be cut off, also a small amount of trimming is required, so I attacked them with a dremmel. Where the third lug is removed an alternative mounting needs to be made, I drilled through the side and screwed into the plastic ring. A bit of ingenuity is required!
+They're not perfect, but at least they're the right diameter, 2 of the 3 lugs will line up, the third is not used and needs to be cut off, also a small amount of trimming is required, so I attacked them with a Dremel. Where the third lug is removed an alternative mounting needs to be made, I drilled through the side and screwed into the plastic ring. A bit of ingenuity is required!
 While replacing the headlamps or rings, you'll also find the small screws that retain the entire assembly to the headlamp pods have probably rusted, if these snap off while removing them or require drilling out, they are M4 thread, and replacements should be 20mm non-countersunk screws, I used stainless socket heads.  Fairly easy job to drill the remains out from the locating plates and retap.  The adjusting screws going through the springs seem to survive and don't require replacing.

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:13, 22 November 2009
Line 1:		Line 1:
		+	__TOC__
		+
		+
	== Rusty rings ==		== Rusty rings ==