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=Removal=

You can take the steering wheel and shroud off, but Clemo has a better way:

* Remove the odometer zeroing push knob.

* Remove the speedo front black retaining cover. NOTE one screw is longer than the other and upon replacement it could push the dashboard out of shape so make sure you remember which way round they go.

* Remove the binnacle cover.

Now, from within the binnacle area:-

* Undo the top plastic wire holder, this will also drop a nut and washer at the same time. If its fitting is totally unglued, it will come of in your hand. This also doubles up and holds the top of the speedo housing.

Reach inside and remove :-

* Speedo cable - the black thumb clip retainer underneath at 6'oclock.

* 3 pin speedo sensor - push on, pull off.

* Unclip the 3 (in number) long plug in connectors - the retaining clips are on each side.

Now the bit that may be different between the different versions:-

* Lean in with a chubby cross head screwdriver and remove the left hand 6 bulb housing - it is attached by 3 small screws (one on the far left at the top that you can see (almost) and the other 2 situated at the extreme left and right (they are not visible) -- photo with a Clemo finger pointing to follow.

* Remove the management light bulb (far right) and the one next to it.

Now to the front of the dash:-

* Remove the 2x round bung covers that have a large cross head screw, screwed into a retaining nut that is clipped onto the bottom of the overall unit - this may fall off, so listen and watch for it. If it hasn't fallen of yet ... it will do when you try to put it back on!

At this point, the whole unit will drop backwards slightly. Now everything should be loose:-

* Get a small piece of cloth and lay it over the sharp nasty metal edge running along the bottom of the dash as it's now ready to come out through there!

* Check the steering wheel is locked down into its lowest position and making use of the gap in the steering wheel, pull the top of the speedo perspex cover down towards the floor. '''BUT not too close that is scratches on the nasty metal bit.'''

* Turn the steering wheel with the speedo resting between the spokes to the right.

Now the back white rear plastic RHS of the speedo is touching hard on the right:-

* Now rotate the whole unit towards the left whilst twisting towards your knees.....

In the Clemo book of how to remove, it should now be out. I have done this twice and it does work - it is really tight but it does work without scratching the perspex front.

==Helpful pictures==

Click on the thumbnails for full sized pictures ......

[[Image:InstrumentPanelFront.gif|200px]]
[[Image:InstrumentPanelRear1.gif|200px]]
[[Image:InstrumentPanelRear2.gif|200px]]
[[Image:InstrumentPanelRear3.gif|200px]]
[[Image:InstrumentPanelRear4.gif|200px]]

= Voltage regulator =

The fuel and temperature gauge voltage stabilizer is located on the left hand side of the pcb (see picture below) when viewed from the back. It is an ITT part with the GM part number 25064055, however it is what used to be a commonly available TO220, 36V (max) input, 10V @ 1A output, -40°C to +125°C operating temperature, low dropout regulator.

The temperature gauge and fuel gauge are both 50Ω so the absolute maximum current (with short circuited sensors) through each of these is 200mA at 10V. The low fuel module is unlikely to draw any appreciable current so a replacement regulator needs to have a minimum output current of 400mA. This could be an Infineon IFX25001TSV10 or Texas Instruments LM2937ET-10 [NOTE: 5V, 8.5V, 12V and 15V devices are also available but it is important to use the -10 suffix device]. Pin function is Input, Ground & Output (reference picture below and reading from bottom to top).

As of 2019, the availability of the above replacements is poor. A currently available alternative device would be the Texas Instruments LM2940T-10.0 and although the maximum input voltage is only 26V, it will tolerate 100ms transients of 60V.

[[Image:Instrument_panel_voltage_stabilizer.jpg]] [[Image:LM2937ET-10.jpg]]