WikiLEC - User contributions [en]

Logo graphics

2010-06-20T18:22:58Z

Tweetdriver63:

This is a repository for Logo graphics. Anything is fair game, but the basic idea is any good quality Lotus, Elan, LEC, Cat-on-skates, etc files in one place so anybody can easily find what they need for their projects.

[[Image:Change_the_rules_3.jpg‎]]
[[Image:Change_the_rules_4.jpg]]
[[Image:Phantom_cat_3.jpg‎]]
[[Image:Phantom_cat_4.jpg‎]]
[[Image:Silouette2.jpg‎ ]]
[[Image:Cat_103.jpg‎ ]]
[[Image:Cat on skates.jpg]]

File:Cat on skates.jpg

2010-06-20T18:20:50Z

Tweetdriver63:

Fuel injectors

2010-05-07T16:12:28Z

Tweetdriver63:

This is a quick write up for upgrading the Fuel Injectors to the RC PL8 550 Injectors for the Turbo upgrade. I used the write up by David R. Meyers which is in the Upgrade link on the LEC homepage [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/upgrade/injectorswap.htm] and as there is only one photo thought i`d post my photo`s here to help others in the future.
So i`m just going to use Daves write up with my photo`s (hope he doesn`t mine)

Tools Needed:

12mm socket

14mm socket

Socket extension

Needle-nose pliers

Die pick (i used a thin flat screwdriver)

A long, standard screwdriver

T-26 Torx bit

RC Injectors can be bought direct from [http://www.rceng.com/]

The RC PL8-550 (Bosh Style Top) compared to the stock injector

[[Image:RC PL8-550 vs Stock Injector.jpg]]

RC Engineering's replacement for the stock injector is part number PL2-320 (Peak and Hold, bosch connector, 320 cc/min)

Before removing any parts, you must relive pressure form the fuel system. While the car is running, pull the fuse for the fuel pump (I tripped the Inertia switch). After it stalls, crank the engine for a few seconds to remove as much remaining fuel from the fuel rail. Then perform the following steps:

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Remove the (2) 12mm bolts holding the black plastic wire cover.

3. Remove the small wire clips that hold the plastic electrical connectors to the injectors. This is possibly the toughest part of the job. Use the die pick in conjunction with the needle-nose pliers or a standard screwdriver. Be careful of the small plastic tab at the front of the connector. Also, do not drop the clips.

[[Image:Injector wire loom clip.JPG]]

4. Slide the metal clips holding the injector to the fuel rail from left to right. Push first on the front part of the clip, then the rear with the long screwdriver.

[[Image:Injector fuel rail clip.JPG]]

[[Image:Fuel rail clip 1.JPG]]

5. Remove the fuel pressure regulator. A T-26 Torx screw and gently pry the regulator off the end of the fuel rail. It is held in by an o-ring. Mine was in there rather securely. Have an old rag underneath before removing as some gas will spill out from the rail.

[[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator 1.JPG]]

[[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator.JPG]]

6. Remove the (2) 14mm fuel rail bolts.

7. Carefully push the fuel rail up. The injectors are held in place now only by their o-rings, but they will be solidly in place. Work slow, maybe first at one end of the rail, then the other and it will pop up. (they were that solid i had to use a pry bar to remove the injectors)

8. Remove the injectors. They will still be attached either in the rail or in the intake. Either pull or *gently* pry them out. (again i had to use the pry bar to remove the injectors from the fuel rail)

Before installing new injectors, compare them to the stock injectors. Make sure the o-rings are the same size; the distance between top and bottom o-rings is the same; and overall construction is similar. If all appear fine:

1. Lightly coat the new injectors’ o-rings in motor oil to aid installation. Push the injectors into the fuel rail first.

2. Attach/slide the clips that hold the injectors onto the fuel rail.

[[Image:RC injector & clip.JPG]]

3. Carefully line up the injectors into the plenum and gently push down on the rail until the bolt holes line up.
Replace the (2) 14mm fuel rail bolts.

4. Lightly coat the fuel pressure regulator o-ring with motor oil and push into the end of the rail. Replace the Torx bolt.

5. Plug the electrical connectors onto the injectors and carefully replace the small clips.

6. Replace the wire cover and connect the (2) 12mm bolts.

7. Connect the battery.

8. Turn the ignition key to the accessory position to prime the fuel pump. Check for any leaks.
Start the car. Check for any leaks.

[[Image:RC Injectors installed.JPG]]

Fuel injectors

2010-05-07T16:11:57Z

Tweetdriver63:

This is a quick write up for upgrading the Fuel Injectors to the RC PL8 550 Injectors for the Turbo upgrade. I used the write up by David R. Meyers which is in the Upgrade link on the LEC homepage [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/upgrade/injectorswap.htm] and as there is only one photo thought i`d post my photo`s here to help others in the future.
So i`m just going to use Daves write up with my photo`s (hope he doesn`t mine)

Tools Needed:

12mm socket

14mm socket

Socket extension

Needle-nose pliers

Die pick (i used a thin flat screwdriver)

A long, standard screwdriver

T-26 Torx bit

RC Injectors can be bought direct from [http://www.rceng.com/]

The RC PL8-550 (Bosh Style Top) compared to the stock injector

[[Image:RC PL8-550 vs Stock Injector.jpg]]
RC Engineering's replacement for the stock injector is part number PL2-320 (Peak and Hold, bosch connector, 320 cc/min)

Before removing any parts, you must relive pressure form the fuel system. While the car is running, pull the fuse for the fuel pump (I tripped the Inertia switch). After it stalls, crank the engine for a few seconds to remove as much remaining fuel from the fuel rail. Then perform the following steps:

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Remove the (2) 12mm bolts holding the black plastic wire cover.

3. Remove the small wire clips that hold the plastic electrical connectors to the injectors. This is possibly the toughest part of the job. Use the die pick in conjunction with the needle-nose pliers or a standard screwdriver. Be careful of the small plastic tab at the front of the connector. Also, do not drop the clips.

[[Image:Injector wire loom clip.JPG]]

4. Slide the metal clips holding the injector to the fuel rail from left to right. Push first on the front part of the clip, then the rear with the long screwdriver.

[[Image:Injector fuel rail clip.JPG]]

[[Image:Fuel rail clip 1.JPG]]

5. Remove the fuel pressure regulator. A T-26 Torx screw and gently pry the regulator off the end of the fuel rail. It is held in by an o-ring. Mine was in there rather securely. Have an old rag underneath before removing as some gas will spill out from the rail.

[[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator 1.JPG]]

[[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator.JPG]]

6. Remove the (2) 14mm fuel rail bolts.

7. Carefully push the fuel rail up. The injectors are held in place now only by their o-rings, but they will be solidly in place. Work slow, maybe first at one end of the rail, then the other and it will pop up. (they were that solid i had to use a pry bar to remove the injectors)

8. Remove the injectors. They will still be attached either in the rail or in the intake. Either pull or *gently* pry them out. (again i had to use the pry bar to remove the injectors from the fuel rail)

Before installing new injectors, compare them to the stock injectors. Make sure the o-rings are the same size; the distance between top and bottom o-rings is the same; and overall construction is similar. If all appear fine:

1. Lightly coat the new injectors’ o-rings in motor oil to aid installation. Push the injectors into the fuel rail first.

2. Attach/slide the clips that hold the injectors onto the fuel rail.

[[Image:RC injector & clip.JPG]]

3. Carefully line up the injectors into the plenum and gently push down on the rail until the bolt holes line up.
Replace the (2) 14mm fuel rail bolts.

4. Lightly coat the fuel pressure regulator o-ring with motor oil and push into the end of the rail. Replace the Torx bolt.

5. Plug the electrical connectors onto the injectors and carefully replace the small clips.

6. Replace the wire cover and connect the (2) 12mm bolts.

7. Connect the battery.

8. Turn the ignition key to the accessory position to prime the fuel pump. Check for any leaks.
Start the car. Check for any leaks.

[[Image:RC Injectors installed.JPG]]

Fuel injectors

2010-05-07T16:11:35Z

Tweetdriver63:

This is a quick write up for upgrading the Fuel Injectors to the RC PL8 550 Injectors for the Turbo upgrade. I used the write up by David R. Meyers which is in the Upgrade link on the LEC homepage [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/upgrade/injectorswap.htm] and as there is only one photo thought i`d post my photo`s here to help others in the future.
So i`m just going to use Daves write up with my photo`s (hope he doesn`t mine)

Tools Needed:

12mm socket

14mm socket

Socket extension

Needle-nose pliers

Die pick (i used a thin flat screwdriver)

A long, standard screwdriver

T-26 Torx bit

RC Injectors can be bought direct from [http://www.rceng.com/]

The RC PL8-550 (Bosh Style Top) compared to the stock injector

[[Image:RC PL8-550 vs Stock Injector.jpg]] RC Engineering's replacement for the stock injector is part number PL2-320 (Peak and Hold, bosch connector, 320 cc/min)

Before removing any parts, you must relive pressure form the fuel system. While the car is running, pull the fuse for the fuel pump (I tripped the Inertia switch). After it stalls, crank the engine for a few seconds to remove as much remaining fuel from the fuel rail. Then perform the following steps:

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Remove the (2) 12mm bolts holding the black plastic wire cover.

3. Remove the small wire clips that hold the plastic electrical connectors to the injectors. This is possibly the toughest part of the job. Use the die pick in conjunction with the needle-nose pliers or a standard screwdriver. Be careful of the small plastic tab at the front of the connector. Also, do not drop the clips.

[[Image:Injector wire loom clip.JPG]]

4. Slide the metal clips holding the injector to the fuel rail from left to right. Push first on the front part of the clip, then the rear with the long screwdriver.

[[Image:Injector fuel rail clip.JPG]]

[[Image:Fuel rail clip 1.JPG]]

5. Remove the fuel pressure regulator. A T-26 Torx screw and gently pry the regulator off the end of the fuel rail. It is held in by an o-ring. Mine was in there rather securely. Have an old rag underneath before removing as some gas will spill out from the rail.

[[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator 1.JPG]]

[[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator.JPG]]

6. Remove the (2) 14mm fuel rail bolts.

7. Carefully push the fuel rail up. The injectors are held in place now only by their o-rings, but they will be solidly in place. Work slow, maybe first at one end of the rail, then the other and it will pop up. (they were that solid i had to use a pry bar to remove the injectors)

8. Remove the injectors. They will still be attached either in the rail or in the intake. Either pull or *gently* pry them out. (again i had to use the pry bar to remove the injectors from the fuel rail)

Before installing new injectors, compare them to the stock injectors. Make sure the o-rings are the same size; the distance between top and bottom o-rings is the same; and overall construction is similar. If all appear fine:

1. Lightly coat the new injectors’ o-rings in motor oil to aid installation. Push the injectors into the fuel rail first.

2. Attach/slide the clips that hold the injectors onto the fuel rail.

[[Image:RC injector & clip.JPG]]

3. Carefully line up the injectors into the plenum and gently push down on the rail until the bolt holes line up.
Replace the (2) 14mm fuel rail bolts.

4. Lightly coat the fuel pressure regulator o-ring with motor oil and push into the end of the rail. Replace the Torx bolt.

5. Plug the electrical connectors onto the injectors and carefully replace the small clips.

6. Replace the wire cover and connect the (2) 12mm bolts.

7. Connect the battery.

8. Turn the ignition key to the accessory position to prime the fuel pump. Check for any leaks.
Start the car. Check for any leaks.

[[Image:RC Injectors installed.JPG]]

Parts Cross-references by Vehicle Model

2010-05-04T17:02:17Z

Tweetdriver63:

Please add any you know to this list. Add UK/European cross-references too.

All drive belts, including timing belt excluding Alternator belt-->1991 Isuzu Impulse. Alternator belt is one size smaller than Impulse - Reference: 275K4

Front brake pads-->Pontiac Lemans, 1988-1993 Front, 1988 Pontiac Fiero

Rear brake pads-->1991 Chevy Lumina

Front brake disks-->Vauxhall Astra, 1989 Pontiac LeMans

Front brake calipers-->1981-1988 Opel, Vauxhall with Delco system. 1980-1991 Astra, 1989 Pontiac LeMans

Rear Wheel Bearings-->1985-1998 VW Jetta GL, VW Golf 1984-1992 (MK1), 1992-1998 (MK3) (However, the oil seal that comes with this kit is not the correct one. The following oil seal is required: GM part number 90217059 or Vauxhall Corsa 1983-1993 rear wheel bearing kit.)

Coolant Temperature Sensor-->Pontiac Fiero, Isuzu Impulse RS and Geo Storm, Isuzu Trooper (1986-7 with 2.3l engine and 1992-2001 with 3.2l & 3.5l V6 engines)

Radiator fans thermal switch-->1988 Pontiac Fiero

Radiator Cooling Fans-->Renault 25 AR4 Automatic transmission, Renault Trafic II, Renault Trafic III

Headlight motors-->Pontiac Sunbird GT

A/C blower motor-->1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse

Alternator-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Oil filler cap-->Honda works

Oil filter-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Most engine gaskets-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS

Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (MAP)-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS, Lotus Carlton, 1990 Pontiac Sunbird. For other references (1 Bar, 2 Bar, 3 Bar sensors), see [http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/component_info/sensors.html this cross-reference list.]

Starter-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Horn button switches (Fed Elan)-->1990-1992 Chevy Camaro, Pontiac Firebird

Ignition Coils-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS (the list of GM cars is extensive, [http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductGuide.aspx?mfrcode=BOR&mfrpartnumber=E51 PartsAmerica Coil xref])

O2 sensor-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

CV Boots-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Thermostat-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo, Any 1000cc Mini 1969-1992

Heater valve--> Holden (AUS) Commodore, Volvo 740 and similar; Fiat Spyder

Heater control--> Holden (AUS) Commodore - [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=15590 LEC discussion]

Fuel Pressure Regulator-->1992-1996 Chevrolet Corvette

Fuel Pump--> 1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo. (The mountings are slightly different, and will require some "rigging," but it's supposed to be a relatively easy job.)

Idle Air Control Vavle-->[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=16687]

Lower Steering Column U-Joint A100H0050F --> Land Rover Defender Lower Steering UJ NRC7704 (See here[http://kact.co.uk/lec/lower_steering_u_joint.jpg] for photo)

Parts Cross-references by Vehicle Model

2010-03-01T18:01:10Z

Tweetdriver63:

Please add any you know to this list. Add UK/European cross-references too.

All drive belts, including timing belt excluding Alternator belt-->1991 Isuzu Impulse. Alternator belt is one size smaller than Impulse - Reference: 275K4

Front brake pads-->Pontiac Lemans, 1988-1993 Front, 1988 Pontiac Fiero

Rear brake pads-->1991 Chevy Lumina

Front brake disks-->Vauxhall Astra, 1989 Pontiac LeMans

Front brake calipers-->1981-1988 Opel, Vauxhall with Delco system. 1980-1991 Astra, 1989 Pontiac LeMans

Rear Wheel Bearings-->1985-1998 VW Jetta GL, VW Golf 1984-1992 (MK1), 1992-1998 (MK3) (However, the oil seal that comes with this kit is not the correct one. The following oil seal is required: GM part number 90217059 or Vauxhall Corsa 1983-1993 rear wheel bearing kit.)

Coolant Temperature Sensor-->Pontiac Fiero, Isuzu Impulse RS and Geo Storm, Isuzu Trooper (1986-7 with 2.3l engine and 1992-2001 with 3.2l & 3.5l V6 engines)

Radiator fans thermal switch-->1988 Pontiac Fiero

Radiator Cooling Fans-->Renault 25 AR4 Automatic transmission, Renault Trafic II, Renault Trafic III

Headlight motors-->Pontiac Sunbird GT

A/C blower motor-->1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse

Alternator-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Oil filler cap-->Honda works

Oil filter-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Most engine gaskets-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS

Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (MAP)-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS, Lotus Carlton, 1990 Pontiac Sunbird. For other references (1 Bar, 2 Bar, 3 Bar sensors), see [http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/component_info/sensors.html this cross-reference list.]

Starter-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Horn button switches (Fed Elan)-->1990-1992 Chevy Camaro, Pontiac Firebird

Ignition Coils-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS (the list of GM cars is extensive, [http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductGuide.aspx?mfrcode=BOR&mfrpartnumber=E51 PartsAmerica Coil xref])

O2 sensor-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

CV Boots-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Thermostat-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo, Any 1000cc Mini 1969-1992

Heater valve--> Holden (AUS) Commodore, Volvo 740 and similar; Fiat Spyder

Heater control--> Holden (AUS) Commodore - [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=15590 LEC discussion]

Fuel Pressure Regulator-->1992-1996 Chevrolet Corvette

Idle Air Control Vavle-->[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=16687]

Parts Cross-references by Vehicle Model

2010-02-22T22:46:53Z

Tweetdriver63:

Logo graphics

2009-10-17T16:53:22Z

Tweetdriver63:

File:Cat 103.jpg

2009-10-17T16:52:51Z

Tweetdriver63:

Logo graphics

2009-10-17T16:52:00Z

Tweetdriver63:

File:Silouette2.jpg

2009-10-17T16:51:30Z

Tweetdriver63:

Logo graphics

2009-10-17T16:50:33Z

Tweetdriver63:

File:Phantom cat 4.jpg

2009-10-17T16:50:06Z

Tweetdriver63:

Logo graphics

2009-10-17T16:49:41Z

Tweetdriver63:

File:Phantom cat 3.jpg

2009-10-17T16:48:48Z

Tweetdriver63:

Logo graphics

2009-10-17T16:47:59Z

Tweetdriver63: Repository for Lotus/Elan/LEC graphics files.

File:Change the rules 3.jpg

2009-10-17T16:42:14Z

Tweetdriver63: Full color Lotus "Change the rules" logo.

Full color Lotus "Change the rules" logo.

File:Change the rules 4.jpg

2009-10-17T16:41:14Z

Tweetdriver63: Black and white Lotus "Change the rules" logo.

Black and white Lotus "Change the rules" logo.

Parts Cross-references by Vehicle Model

2009-06-22T00:12:48Z

Tweetdriver63:

Please add any you know to this list. Add UK/European cross-references too.

All drive belts, including timing belt-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Front brake pads-->Pontiac Lemans, 1988-1993 Front, 1988 Pontiac Fiero

Rear brake pads-->1991 Chevy Lumina

Front brake disks-->Vauxhall Astra

Front brake calipers-->1981-1988 Opel, Vauxhall with Delco system. 1980-1991 Astra

Rear Wheel Bearings-->1985-1998 VW Jetta GL, VW Golf 1984-1992 (MK1), 1992-1998 (MK3) (However, the oil seal that comes with this kit is not the correct one. The following oil seal is required: GM part number 90217059 or Vauxhall Corsa 1983-1993 rear wheel bearing kit.)

Coolant Temperature Sensor-->Pontiac Fiero, Isuzu Impulse RS and Geo Storm, Isuzu Trooper (1986-7 with 2.3l engine and 1992-2001 with 3.2l & 3.5l V6 engines)

Radiator fans thermal switch-->1988 Pontiac Fiero

Radiator Cooling Fans-->Renault 25 AR4 Automatic transmission, Renault Trafic II, Renault Trafic III

Headlight motors-->Pontiac Sunbird GT

A/C blower motor-->1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse

Alternator-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Oil filler cap-->Honda works

Oil filter-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Most engine gaskets-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS

Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (MAP)-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS, Lotus Carlton, 1990 Pontiac Sunbird. For other references (1 Bar, 2 Bar, 3 Bar sensors), see [http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/component_info/sensors.html this cross-reference list.]

Starter-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Horn button switches (Fed Elan)-->1990-1992 Chevy Camaro, Pontiac Firebird

Ignition Coils-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS (the list of GM cars is extensive, [http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductGuide.aspx?mfrcode=BOR&mfrpartnumber=E51 PartsAmerica Coil xref])

O2 sensor-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

CV Boots-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Thermostat-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo, Any 1000cc Mini 1969-1992

Heater valve--> Volvo 740 and similar; Fiat Spyder

Alternator

2009-04-20T16:05:11Z

Tweetdriver63: /* Replacement Parts */

== Alternator replacement (ESM method) ==

'''This is a proven method to replace the alternator on a UK Elan SE with or without air-con. It might work on other models but is not proven.'''

----

== Removal ==
# Disconnect the battery - if you don't you WILL regret it!
# Pop the bonnet and locate the black power steering fluid reservoir, this needs to be removed. Remove the bracket - one bolt (10mm head) is obvious, remove it, and open the bracket a little and look for two further screws and undo them as well. The bracket can now be removed completely. Empty the bottle into a container (use a syringe, turkey baster or whatever) and replace the cap, note the position of the breather hole in the cap. Loosen the jubilee clips holding the pipes onto the base of the bottle and push them down the pipes out of the way. Get hold of the bottle, ensuring you cover the breather hole with your thumb, pull it off the pipes and quickly invert it. Pour the remaining fluid from the bottle into your container. Plug the pipes to stop them dripping.
# You'll now have reasonable access to the belt tension adjusting bolt (12mm spanner), remove it.
# Now you need to get under the car. Put the car into gear, put handbrake on and chock the left wheels. Support the car with stands under the rear right [[Jacking Points]] and beneath the right side bolts securing the rear end of the front suspension raft to the chassis cross-member. Make sure the car is well supported as you will be trusting your life to it!
# Get under the car and locate the alternator. Peel back the rubber covering the positive post of the alternator, get a 10mm spanner on it, remove the nut and washer and take the connector off the post.
# You'll see a pipe coming through the space you will be bringing the alternator out through. Unbolt the pipe clamp (13mm socket) holding it to the floor of the car near the wheel.
# Loosen the pivot bolt of the alternator with a 14mm socket or a spanner (don't try and remove it yet there isn't room). This might need reasonable leverage.
# Remove the two bolts retaining the alternator mount with a 14mm socket. Again reasonable leverage might be required. This will free the alternator.
# Remove the remaining plug in the alternator.
# Remove the pivot bolt (if you didn't loosen it earlier you'll probably have to put it back on at this point to get it started) and pull off the mount.
# The alternator is now free but you have to remove another pipe clamp before you can withdraw it. The clamp is on the bulkhead, its not too bad to get at. Remove and make sure you get the aluminium spacer off it and put it to one side - its a git to retrieve if it falls being non-magnetic.
# The power steering pipe will now drop completely out of the way. Remove the alternator rear first - it's not too hard but a couple of attempts might be needed to get the orientation right. Don't drop it on your head.

----

== Re-fitting ==

When putting the alternator back in think about the order you do things in or you’ll end up reversing half of it:

# Put the alternator into the cavity.
# Replace the bulkhead pipe clamp (including the Al spacer) - make sure the top of the pipe is level with the other pipe before tightening up.
# Put bracket onto alternator and replace pivot bolt (it can be fiddly getting it lined up), no need to tighten it at this stage.
# Get the alternator into position so you can bolt the mount back on MAKE SURE YOU LOOP THE BELT OVER THE PULLEY.
# Bolt the alternator on.
# Replace the wire/plug onto the rear of the alternator.
# Get some tension on the belt and replace the adjustment bolt (be careful the alternator's case is easily broken).
# Tighten the pivot bolt.
# Re-bolt the lower power steering pipe bracket.
# Push the power steering reservoir bottle back onto the pipes, position and tighten jubilee clips.
# Refill power steering reservoir bottle.
# Reconnect battery and test start.
# Replace power steering bottle bracket.

==Replacement Parts==

A Lotus alternator Pt No A100E6029S £505.59

A reconditioned alternator from SJ lotus SJ100E0010 Exchange £125.00

[http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LOTUS-ELAN-M100-ALTERNATOR_W0QQitemZ160203369539QQihZ006QQcategoryZ31354QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem The Nippon Denso Alternator] Brand new £125 or less.

This is the same item that is normally available on Ebay

As a cross-reference, this alternator is also used on the 1991 Isuzu Impulse.

[[Image:Nip Den 1.jpg]]
[[Image:Nip Den2.jpg]]
[[Image:Nip Den3.jpg]]

== Loren's LHD write up ==

[http://lotuselancentral.com/repair/alternator.htm On LEC] and also on the [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/lec/alternator.htm pre-crash LEC]

[[Category:Incomplete]]
[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:Components]]

Parts Cross-references by Vehicle Model

2008-10-25T18:48:07Z

Tweetdriver63:

Please add any you know to this list. Add UK/European cross-references too.

All drive belts, including timing belt-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Front brake pads-->Pontiac Lemans, 1988-1993 Front, 1988 Pontiac Fiero

Rear brake pads-->1991 Chevy Lumina

Front brake disks-->Vauxhall Astra

Front brake calipers-->1981-1988 Opel, Vauxhall with Delco system. 1980-1991 Astra

Rear Wheel Bearings-->1985-1998 VW Jetta GL, VW Golf 1984-1992 (MK1), 1992-1998 (MK3) (However, the oil seal that comes with this kit is not the correct one. The following oil seal is required: GM part number 90217059 or Vauxhall Corsa 1983-1993 rear wheel bearing kit.)

Coolant Temperature Sensor-->Pontiac Fiero, Isuzu Impulse RS and Geo Storm, Isuzu Trooper (1986-7 with 2.3l engine and 1992-2001 with 3.2l & 3.5l V6 engines)

Radiator fans thermal switch-->1988 Pontiac Fiero

Radiator Cooling Fans-->Renault 25 AR4 Automatic transmission, Renault Trafic II, Renault Trafic III

Headlight motors-->Pontiac Fiero, Firebird

A/C blower motor-->1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse

Alternator-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Oil filler cap-->Honda works

Oil filter-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Most engine gaskets-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS

Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (MAP)-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS, Lotus Carlton, 1990 Pontiac Sunbird. For other references (1 Bar, 2 Bar, 3 Bar sensors), see [http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/component_info/sensors.html this cross-reference list.]

Starter-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Horn button switches (Fed Elan)-->1990-1992 Chevy Camaro, Pontiac Firebird

Ignition Coils-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS (the list of GM cars is extensive, [http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductGuide.aspx?mfrcode=BOR&mfrpartnumber=E51 PartsAmerica Coil xref])

O2 sensor-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

CV Boots-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Thermostat-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo, Any 1000cc Mini 1969-1992

Parts Cross-references by Vehicle Model

2008-10-25T18:46:42Z

Tweetdriver63:

Please add any you know to this list. Add UK/European cross-references too.

All drive belts, including timing belt-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Front brake pads-->Pontiac Lemans, 1988-1993 Front, 1988 Pontiac Fiero

Rear brake pads-->1991 Chevy Lumina

Front brake disks-->Vauxhall Astra

Front brake calipers-->1981-1988 Opel, Vauxhall with Delco system. 1980-1991 Astra

Rear Wheel Bearings-->1985-1998 VW Jetta GL, VW Golf 1984-1992 (MK1), 1992-1998 (MK3) (However, the oil seal that comes with this kit is not the correct one. The following oil seal is required: GM part number 90217059 or Vauxhall Corsa 1983-1993 rear wheel bearing kit.)

Coolant Temperature Sensor-->Pontiac Fiero,

Radiator fans thermal switch-->1988 Pontiac Fiero, Isuzu Impulse RS and Geo Storm, Isuzu Trooper (1986-7 with 2.3l engine and 1992-2001 with 3.2l & 3.5l V6 engines)

Radiator Cooling Fans-->Renault 25 AR4 Automatic transmission, Renault Trafic II, Renault Trafic III

Headlight motors-->Pontiac Fiero, Firebird

A/C blower motor-->1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse

Alternator-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Oil filler cap-->Honda works

Oil filter-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Most engine gaskets-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS

Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (MAP)-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS, Lotus Carlton, 1990 Pontiac Sunbird. For other references (1 Bar, 2 Bar, 3 Bar sensors), see [http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/component_info/sensors.html this cross-reference list.]

Starter-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Horn button switches (Fed Elan)-->1990-1992 Chevy Camaro, Pontiac Firebird

Ignition Coils-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS (the list of GM cars is extensive, [http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductGuide.aspx?mfrcode=BOR&mfrpartnumber=E51 PartsAmerica Coil xref])

O2 sensor-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

CV Boots-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Thermostat-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo, Any 1000cc Mini 1969-1992

Parts Cross-references by Vehicle Model

2008-10-25T18:32:46Z

Tweetdriver63:

Parts Cross-references by Vehicle Model

2008-10-25T18:27:49Z

Tweetdriver63:

Parts Cross-references by Vehicle Model

2008-10-25T18:23:42Z

Tweetdriver63:

Parts Cross-references by Vehicle Model

2008-09-29T03:17:53Z

Tweetdriver63:

Parts Cross-references by Vehicle Model

2008-09-29T03:02:06Z

Tweetdriver63: a cross-reference for common parts by vehicle model

Ignition Coil

2008-08-16T19:45:36Z

Tweetdriver63: /* Coil Packs */

==Background==
This section relates to the turbo ignition system: It is a Direct Ignition system which does away with conventional distributor. It uses two separate coil packs and the 'waste spark' technique whereby cylinders 1&4 and 2&3 are provided with a spark every revolution i.e. on both the compression and exhaust strokes, the latter obviously serving no useful function. The two coil packs are mounted on a backing plate. The coils internal ignition module controls the spark advance at cranking speed but when the engine speed exceeds 800RPM, the [[Electronic Control Module (ECM)]] takes over control.

==Alternatives==

MSD 8224 coil packs - [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4787 see LEC thread]

==Replacement==

===Coil Packs and Ignition Module/Backing Plate===

Tools needed:

10mm Socket Wrench

Its worth mentioning that this would be a prefect time to replace your ignition leads too!

First of all we need to move the tank in the top right of the engine bay out of the way. Its just held in place with one bolt on the top. Also remove the big rubber intake pipe.

[[Image:DSC00230.jpg]]

I used a cable tie and secured the tank to the bonnet stand so that it didn't get in the way.

Now the coil is visible. Remove the ignition leads.

[[Image:Tankremoved.jpg]]

Remove the three plugs from the top of the unit. You don't have to keep note of which one goes where because they will only fit in a certain way. Also notice the earth strap on the left hand bolt. This will need to be put back on later. Hello rusted first coil

[[Image:Oldcoilupclose.jpg]]

Unscrew the three bolts holding the coil plate onto the engine bay. Its a good idea to do the bottom two first.

If you accidentally drop a bolt there is plenty of space for it to fall out onto the ground below the car. Try not to let this happen though.

[[Image:Socketremoval.jpg]]

A nice shiny new coil ready to be put in .

[[Image:Coilupsidedown.jpg]]

I superglued the washers in the rear of the new plate to make the refitting process easier.

[[Image:Glue.jpg]]

Fit the new coil in the same way you removed the old one. Remember to refit the earth strap too. Reconnect the ignition leads. Now is a good time to try starting the engine to make sure its all working correctly.

If everything is good then put the tank and rubber pipe back in place.

===Coil Packs===

Description as above but:

It's possible, and very easy, to replace the coil packs without taking the whole coil assembly out, as described above. The two coil packs are held to the bracket via two 7/32 inch bolts each (visible in the above pictures. One is between the ignition lead connectors. The other is on the opposite side of the pack). The black plastic base of the assembly, that contains the wiring, is held on by those same bolts, by compression. There's apparently a grommet or insulator in the holes in the plastic base, because the bolts don't fall out when you loosen them, which is nice. Leave the three wiring harness connectors connected, and the wiring base will pretty much stay where it is when you remove the coil packs. There are a couple of built-in studs on the base that go into holes in the bracket to line it up so it all goes back together easily.

I used a short ratchet handle, with a 4 inch extension to easily reach the bolts and have room to turn the handle.

When replacing the coil packs, I'm betting it's easier to handle them individually, than it is to remove the whole assembly. The entire job (plugs, leads, and coil packs) took only about 30 minutes.

[[Category:Components]]