WikiLEC - User contributions [en]

Engine oil

2021-07-30T00:00:36Z

Tigerdog:

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11127&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Also see LEC…]

* The original Lotus Service notes recommends 3.5 litres including filter change of 10W/30 SF or SG, 15W/40 SF or SG, Mobil One 5W/50 SG

* If it were a new car the oil choice would be straight forward, just follow the manufacturer’s recommendation. Unfortunately the Lotus recommendation is 17 years old and oil has moved on a bit.

== What the numbers mean… 10W/40 etc ==

* The numbers show the relationship between modern multi grade oils and the SAE single grades.

While your lawnmower engine, being small, slow running, and used mainly when it’s warm, will run happily on SAE 30, a car engine needs something thin enough to pump instantly to the camshaft when cold, but thick enough to maintain the pressure when hot.

10W 40 means its starts from cold with the same flowing characteristics as a SAE 10 single grade oil, but rather than thinning as the temperature rises as an SAE 10 would, it thins no more than a SAE 40. Similarly a 5W 50 starts off as a 5 when the ambient temperature is -18°C and doesn’t thin anymore than a SAE 50 by the time the oil is boiling.

You might wonder why you would ever need a 0W, it’s the same as a 5W with an extra bit of something that keeps it pourable under even worse conditions.

We used to consider Duckham’s 20W 50 as being a thick oil and now we have fully synthetic 10W 60 being recommended. Fortunately the synthetic oils flow better generally, so the comparison is not exact.

In the middle of the UK 10W-40 would be a good choice. 5W-30 would be more appropriate for Norway and 15W-50 for North Africa. Then there are track days…

== Some of the things said on the subject of engine oil. ==

* Castrol say:

Changing the oil every 6 months Magnatec 10W-40 SS would do a good job. Doing any track days, EDGE 10W-60 FS would offer better performance and protection.

For the extra cost they recommend EDGE 10W-60 FS anyway, but do the oil change once a year for low mileage cars, as it will easily do the mileage.

They also recommend EDGE Turbo Diesel 5W-40 and EDGE 5W-30

* On reading some of the posts in early February 2008 Castrol added…

It seems that everyone uses different oil and each are happy so in theory you can use what you like!! Lots of oils will work - but the question is, which one works the best? At the end of the day, everyone will have their favourite, and everyone will have an opinion, but as long as everyone feels they are using what's best for them - great.

Regarding the "don't use a xW-60, but an xW- 50 is ok" - the difference between a 50 and a 60 at 100 degrees is 2.5 centistokes ( i.e. not much ) whereas an xW-40W is around 13 centistokes so quite a bit thinner !

The Formula RS has been replaced by the EDGE Sport 10W-60 which is Castrol's ultimate high performance oil for high powered and tuned engines - We also produce EDGE 10W-60 which is a retail version of TWS Motorsport , a specific BMW formulation for their "M" series engines ( the only oil BMW recommend for the M series for ultimate performance and protection )

Looking at my specifications lists Lotus are now recommending as an initial viscosity, a 10W-60 for Élan Se and S2 (89 – 95) with a note “MINIMUM high temperature viscosity of 50 to 60”

For temperate climates – the note says 10W-30 to 5W-50

Castrol offer a 10W-60 because of our extensive knowledge and experience with high performance engines (take the BMW F1 team cars we lubricate as an example) and we feel that this product offers the best high performance option, based on protection rather than just efficiency.

We also recommend this oil for TVR, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati etc – We haven't had any issues at all with its use that I am aware of.

* ESM says:

Fully synthetic oils are the best by some distance. Friction losses in engines drops by around 4% with a synthetic oil - this gives more power and more economy. They also are the most effective at limiting wear - which is why many engines are best run in with a non-synthetic.

Some older engines (I mean older, I don't mean late 80s) need a more viscous oil because the bearing clearances are larger. Chris Foulds doesn't like synthetics too much largely because of this.

Different oils swell/shrink seals differently. So if you have a borderline seal. One oil may be worse than another for loss through that seal. Which oil minimises your loss may vary depending on which seal causes the leak because all seals aren't all of the same composition. Oil formulation is scarily basic when it comes to seal compatibility; they are formulated with a mixture of elements known to cause either seal shrinkage or swell which are balanced to break even(ish). So worse oil loss isn't necessarily a synthetic vs semi or non-synthetic oil issue more a formulation to formulation issue (if Mobil 1 gives you issues another synthetic 0W40 oil might be better).

Synthetic oils can achieve low cold viscosities. So HVLs will pressurise faster with them, although any drips from leaky seals will be worse for the same reason. I'd certainly go 0W for choice. I prefer a W40 because it will give greater engine protection than a W30 (as a result of its higher viscosity) and the last approval Lotus issued was for a 0W40 not a 0W30. That's not to say a W30 won't be ok and it will incur less in the way of viscous losses but I'd say the Elan's engine is from the W40 oil technology era and so I stick with that because clearances etc are likely to have been designed with that level of viscosity in mind.

Engines run with synthetic oils are cleaner, if you put synthetic oil in an engine previously run on non-synthetic you can dislodge a lot of gunge so run a short first oil/filter change interval if you switch.

* Amsoil says:

To use any 60 grade oil in these engines is crazy. This is the thickest grade of engine oil there is. Whilst we sell a 60 grade its confined to pre war Harley Davidsons and nitro drag cars whose superchargers force the fuel past the rings (if they have them) and into the oil therby diluting it; so they start thick to end up with something that will let the engine survive.
If you are tracking your car and the temperatures are so high that the use of a 60 grade oil means that its effectively a 30 or 40 at these temperatures then please ask yourselves about the efficiency of the rad or oil coolers (if fitted) Bottom line is get the temperatures down and use the correct grade. The engine oil is meant to be an indespensible part of the engines system rather than being used as a prop. The problem with thick oil is that it causes more friction / pumping losses which in itself creats extra heat , robs power and efficiency and can actually lead to oil starvation when an oil pump cavitates.
Edge is a good product but please stick to what the manufactures originally specified. The improvements in oil which mainly refer to the appearance of full synthetics, have resulted in very much stonger and longerlasting products. Amsoils products are at least 3-5 times the film strength of mineral oils and this strength allows the use of thinner oils to advantage.
Not too sure how a synthetic oil can be thinner than a mineral oil? If it where it would just be graded differently so that it would be the same , if that makes sense.

* And...

Be a bit careful with oils that have a gap between the 2 numbers of 40 or even more. (ie 0w-40 5w-50 etc) These are generally 'weak' oils that have additives (VI's) viscocity improvers to stretch the difference between cold and hot thickness. The VI's resist the thinning effects of heat so the 5w-50 is actually a 5 grade oil that with the added VI's doesnt thin down like it should and when new can maintain a 50 grade hot. The VI's are long molecule chains and as such are litterally chopped up and broken by the piston rings and engine heat. They then cannot stop the natural thinning, and the oil that you thought was thick is now no longer. You are better off with a quality 20w-50 unless you wish to change the oil often.

== On the subject of high mileage engines ==

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php...28&highlight=1 Also see here]

* Here’s what Castrol had to say.

If the engine was very dirty, and had not had regular oil changes, and the engine has a bit of wear - then it is possible where there could be some carbon deposits built up around the valve guide seals and piston rings where this carbon is actually providing a final seal - if an engine oil with good detergent properties is used, then over time it can clean away the deposits and you could get some extra usage - but you wouldn't see this straight away.
A more likely scenario could be that the oil is oxidised so it is thicker - when you change the oil, the new oil will be thinner and would also show up any wear - especially is it a synthetic which tend to be thinner than the equivalent mineral oils.
If in doubt then a semi synthetic would probably be better bet - detergents in oil don't necessarily "clean" the engine, but stop dirt sticking to it, and hold it in the oil so when it's changed the dirt is flushed away.

From this you could assume for high mileage engines that have always been running on semi synthetic oil it may be best to stick with it.

== What LEC members are using… ==

* Gareth: Changed from 10W/30 to 10W/40

* Paul: Duckhams 10W/40 to Castrol Edge Sport 0W/40 found a slight leak, going back to 10W-40

* Muley, Jim: I’ve Been using Mobil 0W/40 but switched to the Castrol Edge 0W/40 as the car had nearly 70,000 miles. Now Mobil 5W/40

* Paul P: Castrol RS 0W/60 FS 110,000miles

* Simon P: Put 0W FS in - Made the valve lifters noisy so switched back to 10W its quiet again (10W?)

* Kmckmc: Shell 5W/40 - Castrol FORMULA RS 10W/50 - Mobile One 5W/50 - Selenia 10W/60 - Shell Ultra Helix 5W/40 - Fuchs Titan Super Syn 5W/50

* Elanlover: From "unknown" to Amsoil synthetic Euro spec 5W/40 - engine and tappets much quieter

* ScottJ: Halfords 5W/40 FS since purchase at 115,000 till now at 142,000.

* L.G: Shell 5W/40 FS to Mobil 15W/50 MS(mineral) back to Shell 5W/40 FS because oil pressure light stayed on for a split second after starting the engine. Now back to normal.

* Josler: Mobil One 0W/40. Turbo. Complained of noise. Changed to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 SS

* Johnny: 15W/50 FS (Make?)

* LGM: Valvoline VR1 Racing 10W/30 FS Used Mobile 0W/40 FS with good results. Tried Castrol 5W/30 FS but found lifters were clattering for awhile.

* The Bard: Mobil 5W/30 FS

* Ekapol: From SS Castrol 5W/30 to FS Mobil One 10W/30 engine is much quieter.

* Enright: Mobil One 0W/40 FS

* Oliver: Elf LDX 5W/40 The HVL's seem quieter than they used to with Mobil One 0w-40. Doesn't appear to burn any either (87k miles).

* Rambo: Shell Helix Ultra 5W/40

* Ultimatt: Reverting back to Mobil One 0W/40 FS

* markVasey: From Mobil 15W/50 to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 - N/A (still burning oil)

* Rip: Edge Sport 10W-60 1990 SE Turbo 74000 miles

* RayD: Valvoline Syn Power 5W/50 FS
... to Valvoline VR1 Racing 5W/50 FS ... to Q8 Techno 5W/30 FS ... to Q8 V Long Life 5W 30 FS ... 48000 miles

* Dico: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 FS 44,000 miles, Turbo Purchase car 4 years ago at 30,000 miles. Changed oil and filter every 3000 miles.

* Sy: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 70,000 - 110,000 miles, SE Turbo
Changed engine about 3,000 miles ago because old engine was burning oil regardless of type.

* Clemo: Redline Racing oil. 5W/30 FS
Full engine rebuild 6000 miles ago. NA now reading 116000. changing oil and filter every spring . Covering about 900 miles a year. Using Redline MTL gearbox oil.

* Martin R: Silkolene 10w/50

* Specky: Mobil Super S 10W/40( .....Edit.... very noisy lifters..Looking for an Alternative)

* Steve A: Mobil One 0W/40 52,000 miles

* Dermotbell: Castrol Edge 10W/60

* Monty: Mainly used Mobil 0w/40 and Ocasionly Halfords 5w/40 but Pinky is using a wee bit of oil. So Just done a service with Comma Motorsports full synthetic 5w/50 and K & N oil filter.

* Paza1: Unknown oil with Lotus filter, Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic with Lotus filter, then Mobil 1 0w/40 with Lotus filter. Update, lifters too noisey, back to Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic.

* mnemonix: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50

* bobbrown: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50

* nicowalker: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50

* ashm: Castrol Edge TD 5W-40, K&N filter

* tigerdog: Mobil 1 (US) 0w-40. Noisy lifters, low oil pressure with hot engine -> Lubro-Moly (Liqui-Moly) 5W-40 full synthetic; no longer available in US -> Lubro-Moly "Energy" 0W-40. Full synthetic; base viscosity is slightly higher than Mobil 1 0W-40. Lifters quiet, oil pressure generally good but a tad low idling in SoCal traffic in warm weather (still above 2 bar)--> Castrol (US) Edge 5W-30 fully synthetic too early to comment. Finally settled on Lubro-Moly 5W-40 full synthetic. Good pressure, happy engine.

Engine oil

2011-11-08T21:01:07Z

Tigerdog:

Gearbox Oil Change

2011-11-03T05:55:03Z

Tigerdog:

The challenge lays not in removing oil but putting it in. The transmission is filled through the hole where the speedometer drive cable enters the housing. The first job is to remove the [[Speedometer Cable]] and speedometer gear from the gearbox and remove the speedometer gear to check the oil level. Please do this before draining the old lubricant. If you're not able to remove the cable, it's better to find out while there's still oil in the transmission.

If you need to add or refill oil you’ll need a funnel and suitable length of hose (nobody said this was easy). The original Mobil oil specified by Lotus is no longer produced. Lotus next recommended Castrol TAF-X 75W-90. TAF-X 75W-90 is no longer available but has been replaced with another Castrol product (see below). Draining the gearbox is simply a case of removing the transmission drain plug from beneath the car. The LEC how-to section includes an [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/repair/transaxleoil.htm article with photographs].

== Capacity and recommended lubricant ==
Lotus manuals state 1.8l / 1.9 US quarts as capacity for refilling a drained transaxle. 1.9 US quarts = 1.8l = 3 imperial pints = 60.8 fl oz.

Recommended lubricant is discussed at length in [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=122&t=19171 this forum thread] and [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=7835 this one]. Castrol TAF-X 75w90 originally recommended by Lotus is discontinued. As of 2011, it is replaced by Castrol Syntrans 75W-90 in the UK, Syntrax 75w-90 in the US. Redline MT-90 (''not'' MTL) also meets these requirements. For those who have installed Quaife differentials, [http://www.quaife.co.uk/faqs they also recommend] 75W-90 synthetic gear oil.

Bottom line: 75W-90 GL-5 full synthetic gear oil.

== The mysterious refill plug ==

Some may have one. Some may not. [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5127 Read on!]

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:TextToCopyFromLEC]]
[[Category:Maintenance]]

Gearbox Oil Change

2011-11-03T05:51:49Z

Tigerdog:

The problem here is not removing oil but putting it in.

The first job is to remove the [[Speedometer Cable]] and speedometer gear from the gearbox and remove the speedometer gear to check the oil level. Please do this before draining the transmission. If you're not able to remove the cable, it's better to find out while there's still oil in the transmission.

If you need to add or refill oil you’ll need a funnel and suitable length of hose (nobody said this was easy). The original Mobil oil specified by Lotus is no longer produced. Lotus next recommended Castrol TAF-X 75W-90. TAF-X 75W-90 is no longer available but has been replaced with another product (see below).

Draining the gearbox is simply a case of removing the transmission drain plug from beneath the car. The LEC how-to section includes an [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/repair/transaxleoil.htm article with photographs].

== Capacity and recommended lubricant ==
Lotus manuals state 1.8l / 1.9 US quarts as capacity for refilling a drained transaxle. 1.9 US quarts = 1.8l = 3 imperial pints = 60.8 fl oz.

Recommended lubricant is discussed at length in [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=122&t=19171 this forum thread] and [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=7835 this one]. Castrol TAF-X 75w90 originally recommended by Lotus is discontinued. As of 2011, it is replaced by Castrol Syntrans 75W-90 in the UK, Syntrax 75w-90 in the US. Redline MT-90 (''not'' MTL) also meets these requirements. For those who have installed Quaife differentials, [http://www.quaife.co.uk/faqs they also recommend] 75W-90 synthetic gear oil.

Bottom line: 75W-90 GL-5 full synthetic gear oil.

== The mysterious refill plug ==

Some may have one. Some may not. [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5127 Read on!]

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:TextToCopyFromLEC]]
[[Category:Maintenance]]

Gearbox Oil Change

2011-11-03T05:45:10Z

Tigerdog: /* Capacity and recommended lubricant */

The problem here is not removing oil but putting it in.

The first job is to remove the [[Speedometer Cable]] and speedometer gear from the gearbox and remove the speedometer gear to check the oil level.

If you need to add or refill oil you’ll need a funnel and suitable length of hose (nobody said this was easy). The original Mobil oil specified by Lotus is no longer produced. Lotus now recommends Castrol TAF-X 75W/90, which is readily available and recommended for the S2 Elan which uses the same gearbox as the S1.

Draining the gearbox is simply a case of removing the transmission drain plug from beneath the car.

== Capacity and recommended lubricant ==
Lotus manuals state 1.8l / 1.9 US quarts as capacity for refilling a drained transaxle. 1.9 US quarts = 1.8l = 3 imperial pints = 60.8 fl oz.

Recommended lubricant is discussed at length in [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=122&t=19171 this forum thread] and [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=7835 this one]. Castrol TAF-X 75w90 originally recommended by Lotus is discontinued. As of 2011, it is replaced by Castrol Syntrans 75W-90 in the UK, Syntrax 75w-90 in the US. Redline MT-90 (''not'' MTL) also meets these requirements. For those who have installed Quaife differentials, [http://www.quaife.co.uk/faqs they also recommend] 75W-90 synthetic gear oil.

Bottom line: 75W-90 GL-5 full synthetic gear oil.

== The mysterious refill plug ==

Some may have one. Some may not. [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5127 Read on!]

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:TextToCopyFromLEC]]
[[Category:Maintenance]]

Gearbox Oil Change

2011-11-03T05:40:05Z

Tigerdog: /* Capacity and recommended lubricant */

The problem here is not removing oil but putting it in.

The first job is to remove the [[Speedometer Cable]] and speedometer gear from the gearbox and remove the speedometer gear to check the oil level.

If you need to add or refill oil you’ll need a funnel and suitable length of hose (nobody said this was easy). The original Mobil oil specified by Lotus is no longer produced. Lotus now recommends Castrol TAF-X 75W/90, which is readily available and recommended for the S2 Elan which uses the same gearbox as the S1.

Draining the gearbox is simply a case of removing the transmission drain plug from beneath the car.

== Capacity and recommended lubricant ==
Lotus manuals state 1.8l / 1.9 US quarts as capacity for refilling a drained transaxle. 1.9 US quarts = 1.8l = 3 imperial pints = 60.8 fl oz.

Recommended lubricant is discussed at length in [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=122&t=19171 this forum thread] and [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=7835 this one]. Castrol TAF-X 75w90 originally recommended by Lotus is discontinued. As of 2011, it is replaced by Castrol Syntrans 75W-90 in the UK, Syntrax 75w-90 in the US. Redline MT-90 (''not'' MTL) also meets these requirements.
Bottom line: 75W-90 GL-4 (or GL-5) full synthetic gear oil.

== The mysterious refill plug ==

Some may have one. Some may not. [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5127 Read on!]

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:TextToCopyFromLEC]]
[[Category:Maintenance]]

Gearbox Oil Change

2011-11-03T05:39:00Z

Tigerdog: /* Capacity and recommended lubricant */

The problem here is not removing oil but putting it in.

The first job is to remove the [[Speedometer Cable]] and speedometer gear from the gearbox and remove the speedometer gear to check the oil level.

If you need to add or refill oil you’ll need a funnel and suitable length of hose (nobody said this was easy). The original Mobil oil specified by Lotus is no longer produced. Lotus now recommends Castrol TAF-X 75W/90, which is readily available and recommended for the S2 Elan which uses the same gearbox as the S1.

Draining the gearbox is simply a case of removing the transmission drain plug from beneath the car.

== Capacity and recommended lubricant ==
Lotus manuals state 1.8l / 1.9 US quarts as capacity for refilling a drained transaxle. 1.9 US quarts = 60.8 fl oz = 3 imperial pints = 1.8l.

Recommended lubricant is discussed at length in [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=122&t=19171 this forum thread] and [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=7835 this one]. Castrol TAF-X 75w90 originally recommended by Lotus is discontinued. As of 2011, it is replaced by Castrol Syntrans 75W-90 in the UK, Syntrax 75w-90 in the US. Redline MT-90 (''not'' MTL) also meets these requirements.
Bottom line: 75W-90 GL-4 (or GL-5) full synthetic gear oil.

== The mysterious refill plug ==

Some may have one. Some may not. [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5127 Read on!]

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:TextToCopyFromLEC]]
[[Category:Maintenance]]

Gearbox Oil Change

2011-11-03T05:36:30Z

Tigerdog: /* Capacity and recommended lubricant */

The problem here is not removing oil but putting it in.

The first job is to remove the [[Speedometer Cable]] and speedometer gear from the gearbox and remove the speedometer gear to check the oil level.

If you need to add or refill oil you’ll need a funnel and suitable length of hose (nobody said this was easy). The original Mobil oil specified by Lotus is no longer produced. Lotus now recommends Castrol TAF-X 75W/90, which is readily available and recommended for the S2 Elan which uses the same gearbox as the S1.

Draining the gearbox is simply a case of removing the transmission drain plug from beneath the car.

== Capacity and recommended lubricant ==
Lotus manuals state 1.8l / 1.9 US quarts as capacity for refilling a drained transaxle, 1.9l / 2 US quarts if filling a dry transaxle.

Recommended lubricant is discussed at length in [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=122&t=19171 this forum thread] and [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=7835 this one]. Castrol TAF-X 75w90 originally recommended by Lotus is discontinued. As of 2011, it is replaced by Castrol Syntrans 75W-90 in the UK, Syntrax 75w-90 in the US. Redline MT-90 (''not'' MTL) also meets these requirements.
Bottom line: 75W-90 GL-4 (or GL-5) full synthetic gear oil.

== The mysterious refill plug ==

Some may have one. Some may not. [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5127 Read on!]

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:TextToCopyFromLEC]]
[[Category:Maintenance]]

Gearbox Oil Change

2011-11-03T05:31:42Z

Tigerdog: /* The mysterious refill plug */

The problem here is not removing oil but putting it in.

The first job is to remove the [[Speedometer Cable]] and speedometer gear from the gearbox and remove the speedometer gear to check the oil level.

If you need to add or refill oil you’ll need a funnel and suitable length of hose (nobody said this was easy). The original Mobil oil specified by Lotus is no longer produced. Lotus now recommends Castrol TAF-X 75W/90, which is readily available and recommended for the S2 Elan which uses the same gearbox as the S1.

Draining the gearbox is simply a case of removing the transmission drain plug from beneath the car.

== Capacity and recommended lubricant ==
Lotus manuals state 1.8l / 1.9 US quarts as capacity for refilling a drained transaxle, 1.9l / 2 US quarts if filling a dry transaxle.

Recommended lubricant is discussed at length in [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=122&t=19171 this forum thread] and [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=48&t=7835 this one].
Bottom line: 75W-90 GL-4 (or GL-5) full synthetic gear oil.

== The mysterious refill plug ==

Some may have one. Some may not. [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5127 Read on!]

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:TextToCopyFromLEC]]
[[Category:Maintenance]]

Auxiliary gauges

2011-09-03T07:05:33Z

Tigerdog:

The auxiliary gauges (also known as the fun boy three) consist of a boost gauge (Turbo) / analogue clock (NA), an oil pressure gauge and a voltmeter. They can be accessed by removing the binnacle cover (retained by two screws) from the top of the instrument cluster. Loss or intermittent operation of a single gauge backlight (as opposed to complete loss of [[Instrument backlights]]) is most likely due to one of three problems:

* Poor contact with the lamp holder spade connector - remove the connectors and carefully pinch the contacts together.
* Poor contact with the lamp leads - disconnect and remove the lamp holder, remove the lamp and clean the wires with fine emery cloth or similar.
* Fused lamp - disconnect and remove the lamp holder then replace with a 1.2W type 286 (T5 in North America?) wedge base lamp available from good car accessory shops etc.

Note: The lamp holders are quarter turn locking and are easiest removed by turning with a 9mm socket.

Refitting after removal:
The factory manual does a great job of showing which wires belong with which gauges but says nothing about their orientation. Key point is "G" means "gauge sender" not "ground". The inverted "T" is the ground point. Proper orientation is:

'''Voltmeter''' 
+ Green 
┴ Black

'''Oil Pressure''' 
G White/Brown 
+ Green 
┴ Black 

'''Boost''' 
G Light Green 
+ Green 
┴ Black 

Lamp wire orientation is not critical.

Boost gauge problem

2011-09-03T07:02:22Z

Tigerdog: /* The Solution */

For the forum thread on this topic [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8382&highlight= See here].

==The Problem==
Your boost gauge gives strange readings. The needle may point straight up, or not reset to zero boost at tick-over. You've listened to the engine and the whoosh from the turbo sounds normal. You've not got over-boost or exhaust issues but the gauge is just acting crazy. Looks like you've got an earthing issue.

==The Solution==
You'll need a Philips headed screwdriver to tighten the lose earth wire. The wire you need is hiding under the turbo transducer, to the top left of the engine bay (when stood by the headlights looking back) over the right front wheel arch, as shown in this picture:

[[Image:turbotransducer.jpg|frame|center|border|Turbo transducer location]]
(Thanks to Sy for the engine bay shot)

Find the wire, clean the spade connector on the end and tighten up the screw. Even if it's only slightly lose you'll get erratic readings. Once tightened up, close the bonnet and test the car. Isn't it nice to solve something that easily ? Chances are this will do it. If you are so unfortunate as to have a boost gauge that seems totally dead and this doesn't fix it, take heart! The problem may lie at the other end of the light green wire, at the back of the gauge. Make sure the wires are attached to their proper terminals, according to the instructions in the [http://wikilec.9600.org/index.php/Auxiliary_gauges auxillary gauges wiki entry].

{{warning|text=
If this doesn't stop the quirky behaviour of your boost gauge, you'd better hook up [[ElanScan]] and get yourself to [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum the LotusElanCentral forum] as quick as you can !}}

[[Category:Incomplete]]

Boost gauge problem

2011-09-03T07:01:41Z

Tigerdog: /* The Solution */

For the forum thread on this topic [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8382&highlight= See here].

==The Problem==
Your boost gauge gives strange readings. The needle may point straight up, or not reset to zero boost at tick-over. You've listened to the engine and the whoosh from the turbo sounds normal. You've not got over-boost or exhaust issues but the gauge is just acting crazy. Looks like you've got an earthing issue.

==The Solution==
You'll need a Philips headed screwdriver to tighten the lose earth wire. The wire you need is hiding under the turbo transducer, to the top left of the engine bay (when stood by the headlights looking back) over the right front wheel arch, as shown in this picture:

[[Image:turbotransducer.jpg|frame|center|border|Turbo transducer location]]
(Thanks to Sy for the engine bay shot)

Find the wire, clean the spade connector on the end and tighten up the screw. Even if it's only slightly lose you'll get erratic readings. Once tightened up, close the bonnet and test the car. Isn't it nice to solve something that easily ? Chances are this will do it. If you are so unfortunate as to have a boost gauge that seems totally dead and this doesn't fix it, take heart! The problem may lie at the other end of the light green wire, at the back of the gauge. Make sure the wires are all attached according to the instructions in the [http://wikilec.9600.org/index.php/Auxiliary_gauges auxillary gauges wiki entry].

{{warning|text=
If this doesn't stop the quirky behaviour of your boost gauge, you'd better hook up [[ElanScan]] and get yourself to [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum the LotusElanCentral forum] as quick as you can !}}

[[Category:Incomplete]]

Auxiliary gauges

2011-09-03T06:42:38Z

Tigerdog:

The auxiliary gauges (also known as the fun boy three) consist of a boost gauge (Turbo) / analogue clock (NA), an oil pressure gauge and a voltmeter. They can be accessed by removing the binnacle cover (retained by two screws) from the top of the instrument cluster. Loss or intermittent operation of a single gauge backlight (as opposed to complete loss of [[Instrument backlights]]) is most likely due to one of three problems:

* Poor contact with the lamp holder spade connector - remove the connectors and carefully pinch the contacts together.
* Poor contact with the lamp leads - disconnect and remove the lamp holder, remove the lamp and clean the wires with fine emery cloth or similar.
* Fused lamp - disconnect and remove the lamp holder then replace with a 1.2W type 286 (T5 in North America?) wedge base lamp available from good car accessory shops etc.

Note: The lamp holders are quarter turn locking and are easiest removed by turning with a 9mm socket.

Refitting after removal:
The factory manual does a great job of showing which wires belong with which gauges but says nothing about their orientation. Key point is "G" means "gauge sender" not "ground". The inverted "T" is the ground point. Proper orientation is:

Voltmeter 
+ Green 
┴ Black

Oil Pressure 
G White/Brown 
+ Green 
┴ Black 

Boost 
G Light Green 
+ Green 
┴ Black 

Lamp wire orientation is not critical.

Auxiliary gauges

2011-04-23T17:02:53Z

Tigerdog:

The auxiliary gauges (also known as the fun boy three) consist of a boost gauge (Turbo) / analogue clock (NA), an oil pressure gauge and a voltmeter. They can be accessed by removing the binnacle cover (retained by two screws) from the top of the instrument cluster. Loss or intermittent operation of a single gauge backlight (as opposed to complete loss of [[Instrument backlights]]) is most likely due to one of three problems:

* Poor contact with the lamp holder spade connector - remove the connectors and carefully pinch the contacts together.
* Poor contact with the lamp leads - disconnect and remove the lamp holder, remove the lamp and clean the wires with fine emery cloth or similar.
* Fused lamp - disconnect and remove the lamp holder then replace with a 1.2W type 286 (T5 in North America?) wedge base lamp available from good car accessory shops etc.

Note: The lamp holders are quarter turn locking and are easiest removed by turning with a 9mm socket.

Refitting after removal:
The factory manual does a great job of showing which wires belong with which gauges but says nothing about their orientation. Key point is "G" means "gauge sender" not "ground". The inverted "T" is the ground point. Proper orientation is:

Voltmeter 
+ Green 
┴ Black

Oil Pressure
G White/Brown 
+ Green 
┴ Black 

Boost
G Light Green 
+ Green 
┴ Black 

Lamp wire orientation is not critical.

Engine oil

2010-10-21T15:27:58Z

Tigerdog: /* What LEC members are using… */

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11127&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Also see LEC…]

* The original Lotus Service notes recommends 3.5 litres including filter change of 10W/30 SF or SG, 15W/40 SF or SG, Mobil One 5W/50 SG

* If it were a new car the oil choice would be straight forward, just follow the manufacturer’s recommendation. Unfortunately the Lotus recommendation is 17 years old and oil has moved on a bit.

== What the numbers mean… 10W/40 etc ==

* The numbers show the relationship between modern multi grade oils and the SAE single grades.

While your lawnmower engine, being small, slow running, and used mainly when it’s warm, will run happily on SAE 30, a car engine needs something thin enough to pump instantly to the camshaft when cold, but thick enough to maintain the pressure when hot.

10W 40 means its starts from cold with the same flowing characteristics as a SAE 10 single grade oil, but rather than thinning as the temperature rises as an SAE 10 would, it thins no more than a SAE 40. Similarly a 5W 50 starts off as a 5 when the ambient temperature is -18°C and doesn’t thin anymore than a SAE 50 by the time the oil is boiling.

You might wonder why you would ever need a 0W, it’s the same as a 5W with an extra bit of something that keeps it pourable under even worse conditions.

We used to consider Duckham’s 20W 50 as being a thick oil and now we have fully synthetic 10W 60 being recommended. Fortunately the synthetic oils flow better generally, so the comparison is not exact.

In the middle of the UK 10W-40 would be a good choice. 5W-30 would be more appropriate for Norway and 15W-50 for North Africa. Then there are track days…

== Some of the things said on the subject of engine oil. ==

* Castrol say:

Changing the oil every 6 months Magnatec 10W-40 SS would do a good job. Doing any track days, EDGE 10W-60 FS would offer better performance and protection.

For the extra cost they recommend EDGE 10W-60 FS anyway, but do the oil change once a year for low mileage cars, as it will easily do the mileage.

They also recommend EDGE Turbo Diesel 5W-40 and EDGE 5W-30

* On reading some of the posts in early February 2008 Castrol added…

It seems that everyone uses different oil and each are happy so in theory you can use what you like!! Lots of oils will work - but the question is, which one works the best? At the end of the day, everyone will have their favourite, and everyone will have an opinion, but as long as everyone feels they are using what's best for them - great.

Regarding the "don't use a xW-60, but an xW- 50 is ok" - the difference between a 50 and a 60 at 100 degrees is 2.5 centistokes ( i.e. not much ) whereas an xW-40W is around 13 centistokes so quite a bit thinner !

The Formula RS has been replaced by the EDGE Sport 10W-60 which is Castrol's ultimate high performance oil for high powered and tuned engines - We also produce EDGE 10W-60 which is a retail version of TWS Motorsport , a specific BMW formulation for their "M" series engines ( the only oil BMW recommend for the M series for ultimate performance and protection )

Looking at my specifications lists Lotus are now recommending as an initial viscosity, a 10W-60 for Élan Se and S2 (89 – 95) with a note “MINIMUM high temperature viscosity of 50 to 60”

For temperate climates – the note says 10W-30 to 5W-50

Castrol offer a 10W-60 because of our extensive knowledge and experience with high performance engines (take the BMW F1 team cars we lubricate as an example) and we feel that this product offers the best high performance option, based on protection rather than just efficiency.

We also recommend this oil for TVR, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati etc – We haven't had any issues at all with its use that I am aware of.

* ESM says:

Fully synthetic oils are the best by some distance. Friction losses in engines drops by around 4% with a synthetic oil - this gives more power and more economy. They also are the most effective at limiting wear - which is why many engines are best run in with a non-synthetic.

Some older engines (I mean older, I don't mean late 80s) need a more viscous oil because the bearing clearances are larger. Chris Foulds doesn't like synthetics too much largely because of this.

Different oils swell/shrink seals differently. So if you have a borderline seal. One oil may be worse than another for loss through that seal. Which oil minimises your loss may vary depending on which seal causes the leak because all seals aren't all of the same composition. Oil formulation is scarily basic when it comes to seal compatibility; they are formulated with a mixture of elements known to cause either seal shrinkage or swell which are balanced to break even(ish). So worse oil loss isn't necessarily a synthetic vs semi or non-synthetic oil issue more a formulation to formulation issue (if Mobil 1 gives you issues another synthetic 0W40 oil might be better).

Synthetic oils can achieve low cold viscosities. So HVLs will pressurise faster with them, although any drips from leaky seals will be worse for the same reason. I'd certainly go 0W for choice. I prefer a W40 because it will give greater engine protection than a W30 (as a result of its higher viscosity) and the last approval Lotus issued was for a 0W40 not a 0W30. That's not to say a W30 won't be ok and it will incur less in the way of viscous losses but I'd say the Elan's engine is from the W40 oil technology era and so I stick with that because clearances etc are likely to have been designed with that level of viscosity in mind.

Engines run with synthetic oils are cleaner, if you put synthetic oil in an engine previously run on non-synthetic you can dislodge a lot of gunge so run a short first oil/filter change interval if you switch.

* Amsoil says:

To use any 60 grade oil in these engines is crazy. This is the thickest grade of engine oil there is. Whilst we sell a 60 grade its confined to pre war Harley Davidsons and nitro drag cars whose superchargers force the fuel past the rings (if they have them) and into the oil therby diluting it; so they start thick to end up with something that will let the engine survive.
If you are tracking your car and the temperatures are so high that the use of a 60 grade oil means that its effectively a 30 or 40 at these temperatures then please ask yourselves about the efficiency of the rad or oil coolers (if fitted) Bottom line is get the temperatures down and use the correct grade. The engine oil is meant to be an indespensible part of the engines system rather than being used as a prop. The problem with thick oil is that it causes more friction / pumping losses which in itself creats extra heat , robs power and efficiency and can actually lead to oil starvation when an oil pump cavitates.
Edge is a good product but please stick to what the manufactures originally specified. The improvements in oil which mainly refer to the appearance of full synthetics, have resulted in very much stonger and longerlasting products. Amsoils products are at least 3-5 times the film strength of mineral oils and this strength allows the use of thinner oils to advantage.
Not too sure how a synthetic oil can be thinner than a mineral oil? If it where it would just be graded differently so that it would be the same , if that makes sense.

* And...

Be a bit careful with oils that have a gap between the 2 numbers of 40 or even more. (ie 0w-40 5w-50 etc) These are generally 'weak' oils that have additives (VI's) viscocity improvers to stretch the difference between cold and hot thickness. The VI's resist the thinning effects of heat so the 5w-50 is actually a 5 grade oil that with the added VI's doesnt thin down like it should and when new can maintain a 50 grade hot. The VI's are long molecule chains and as such are litterally chopped up and broken by the piston rings and engine heat. They then cannot stop the natural thinning, and the oil that you thought was thick is now no longer. You are better off with a quality 20w-50 unless you wish to change the oil often.

== On the subject of high mileage engines ==

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php...28&highlight=1 Also see here]

* Here’s what Castrol had to say.

If the engine was very dirty, and had not had regular oil changes, and the engine has a bit of wear - then it is possible where there could be some carbon deposits built up around the valve guide seals and piston rings where this carbon is actually providing a final seal - if an engine oil with good detergent properties is used, then over time it can clean away the deposits and you could get some extra usage - but you wouldn't see this straight away.
A more likely scenario could be that the oil is oxidised so it is thicker - when you change the oil, the new oil will be thinner and would also show up any wear - especially is it a synthetic which tend to be thinner than the equivalent mineral oils.
If in doubt then a semi synthetic would probably be better bet - detergents in oil don't necessarily "clean" the engine, but stop dirt sticking to it, and hold it in the oil so when it's changed the dirt is flushed away.

From this you could assume for high mileage engines that have always been running on semi synthetic oil it may be best to stick with it.

== What LEC members are using… ==

* Gareth: Changed from 10W/30 to 10W/40

* Paul: Duckhams 10W/40 to Castrol Edge Sport 0W/40 found a slight leak, going back to 10W-40

* Muley, Jim: I’ve Been using Mobil 0W/40 but switched to the Castrol Edge 0W/40 as the car had nearly 70,000 miles. Now Mobil 5W/40

* Paul P: Castrol RS 0W/60 FS 110,000miles

* Simon P: Put 0W FS in - Made the valve lifters noisy so switched back to 10W its quiet again (10W?)

* Kmckmc: Shell 5W/40 - Castrol FORMULA RS 10W/50 - Mobile One 5W/50 - Selenia 10W/60 - Shell Ultra Helix 5W/40 - Fuchs Titan Super Syn 5W/50

* Elanlover: From "unknown" to Amsoil synthetic Euro spec 5W/40 - engine and tappets much quieter

* ScottJ: Halfords 5W/40 FS since purchase at 115,000 till now at 142,000.

* L.G: Shell 5W/40 FS to Mobil 15W/50 MS(mineral) back to Shell 5W/40 FS because oil pressure light stayed on for a split second after starting the engine. Now back to normal.

* Josler: Mobil One 0W/40. Turbo. Complained of noise. Changed to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 SS

* Johnny: 15W/50 FS (Make?)

* LGM: Valvoline VR1 Racing 10W/30 FS Used Mobile 0W/40 FS with good results. Tried Castrol 5W/30 FS but found lifters were clattering for awhile.

* The Bard: Mobil 5W/30 FS

* Ekapol: From SS Castrol 5W/30 to FS Mobil One 10W/30 engine is much quieter.

* Enright: Mobil One 0W/40 FS

* Oliver: Elf LDX 5W/40 The HVL's seem quieter than they used to with Mobil One 0w-40. Doesn't appear to burn any either (87k miles).

* Rambo: Shell Helix Ultra 5W/40

* Ultimatt: Reverting back to Mobil One 0W/40 FS

* markVasey: From Mobil 15W/50 to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 - N/A (still burning oil)

* Rip: Edge Sport 10W-60 1990 SE Turbo 74000 miles

* RayD: Valvoline Syn Power 5W/50 FS, to Valvoline VR1 Racing 5W/50 FS 40,000 miles, SE Turbo ... Changed to Q8 Techno 5W/30 FS.

* Dico: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 FS 44,000 miles, Turbo Purchase car 4 years ago at 30,000 miles. Changed oil and filter every 3000 miles.

* Sy: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 70,000 - 110,000 miles, SE Turbo
Changed engine about 3,000 miles ago because old engine was burning oil regardless of type.

* Clemo: Redline Racing oil. 5W/30 FS
Full engine rebuild 6000 miles ago. NA now reading 116000. changing oil and filter every spring . Covering about 900 miles a year. Using Redline MTL gearbox oil.

* Martin R: Silkolene 10w/50

* Specky: Mobil Super S 10W/40( .....Edit.... very noisy lifters..Looking for an Alternative)

* Steve A: Mobil One 0W/40 52,000 miles

* Dermotbell: Castrol Edge 10W/60

* Monty: Mainly used Mobil 0w/40 and Ocasionly Halfords 5w/40 but Pinky is using a wee bit of oil. So Just done a service with Comma Motorsports full synthetic 5w/50 and K & N oil filter.

* Paza1: Unknown oil with Lotus filter, Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic with Lotus filter, then Mobil 1 0w/40 with Lotus filter. Update, lifters too noisey, back to Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic.

* mnemonix: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50

* bobbrown: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50

* nicowalker: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50

* ashm: Castrol Edge TD 5W-40

* tigerdog: Mobil 1 (US) 0w-40. Noisy lifters, low oil pressure with hot engine -> Lubro-Moly (Liqui-Moly) 5W-40 full synthetic; no longer available in US -> Lubro-Moly "Energy" 0W-40. Full synthetic; base viscosity is slightly higher than Mobil 1 0W-40. Lifters quiet, no oil pressure issues. Readily available at NAPA.

Oil Sump/Pan

2010-08-27T17:53:40Z

Tigerdog:

__TOC__

== Background ==

The 4XE1-MT engine is an Isuzu Item tuned by Lotus. The engine used various guises...

* 91 Impulse
* 92 Impulse turbocharged
* 91 Storm
* 92 - 93 Storm SOHC
* 91 Stylus from 7/90
* 92 Stylus SOHC
* 93 Stylus

== Common Faults ==

Ther are several reasons as why to change an oil sump, but the following three spring to mind :-

# Damaged whilst '''Incorrectly''' jacking the car.
# Dented or holed after the vehicle bottomed out on the road surface.
# Heavily corroded.

[[Image:Sump 918.jpg|thumb|left]]
 

== Replacement Parts ==

Lotus Part number A100E6330S (£126)
Isuzu Part Number: 897031-0190
Tokyo Radiator Mfg. Co. 053551

<gallery>
Image:Izusu_oil_pan.jpg‎|Isuzu Oil Pan picture taken from Ebay
Image:HPIM1805.JPG|Isuzu Oil Pan
Image:HPIM1807.JPG|Isuzu Oil Pan
Image:Oil pan.jpg|Lotus Elan Oil Pan, Jet-Hot coated
Image:Sump 179.jpg|Both Isuzu and Lotus IPC merged

</gallery>

== Repair ==

=== Short term fix ===

Aluminum putty

=== Long term fix ===

Weld it...

Second-hand from as little as £10 from the USA.

== External Links ==
* [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=142267#142267 Lotus Elan Central]
* [http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/partsandaccessories/srchRes.asp?Car_ID=9&Type1_ID=%25&srch=sump SJ Lotus]
* [https://www.isuzuparts.com/partscat.html Isuzuparts.com]
* [http://car-part.com USA CAR PARTS] Search for 91, Geo, storm, oil pan.

[[Category:Components]]
[[Category:ReplacementParts]]

Lights rear

2010-08-04T14:18:56Z

Tigerdog: /* Part Numbers */

[[Image:Red Lights.jpg|thumb|right|Elan Rear Lights]]
__TOC__

== Versions ==

There are 2 different versions of the Elan rear lights. Differences between versions are subtle:

* The plastic transparency has different wording
* The inner silver reflector differs by size and reflective qualities
* The main housing has different wording
* The main housing has different receptacles for the bulb holders
* The wiring harnesses are different

<gallery>
Image:Light3.jpg|Lotus Smooth VAL
Image:Light5.jpg|Lotus Smooth VAL
Image:Light2.jpg|Lotus Smooth Scintex (Now Axo Scintex)
Image:Light4.jpg|Lotus Smooth Scintex
Image:Light harness.jpg|Wiring harness and bulb holders. Left Scintex, Right VAL
</gallery>

==Part Numbers==

# Lotus Elan R/H Smooth Scintex... (Now Axo Scintex) Pt No Al00M6056F
# Lotus Elan L/H Smooth Scintex... (Now Axo Scintex) Pt No's to A100M6055F
# Renault Alpine GTA R/H Smooth not available. Renault will order Pt No 6001016294.
# Renault Alpine GTA L/H Smooth still available Pt No 6001016293
# Renault Alpine A610 R/H Grooved Available Pt No 6001019606
# Renault Alpine A610 L/H Grooved Available Pt No 6001019605
# Kia OK50A-51-150C R/H light
# Kia OK50A-51-160C L/H light

{{note|text=Alternative Item Pt No 6001016294 is for a '''set''' of grooved lights & A610 Grill for £333.70}}

==Bulbs==
# Fed Center High-Mounted Stoplight bulb Pt No A100M6029F replacement type 891 Halogen miniature, G4 base - 12.8 Volt 8.06 Watt 0.63 Amp

== Modifications==

Trying to Track down Spares will be your biggest task, after that it's easy.

The hardest challenge will be trying to find Just the Perspex covers. No retailer sells these items individually and they are only available secondhand.

=== Clear Indicators ===

<gallery>
Image:Elan clear rear 192.jpg
Image:Elan rear lens clear 3 146.jpg
</gallery>

These lenses can be order directly from [http://www.protocast.co.uk Protocast].

=== Renault Lights ===

A Lotus Elan fitted with Renault Alpine A610 grooved lights.

<gallery>
Image:Lights.jpg
</gallery>

=== Kia Lights ===

Lotus Elans fitted with Kia Elan lights

<gallery>
Image:Sy Elan.jpg
Image:New lights-rear 975.jpg
</gallery>

[[Category:Components]]

Lights rear

2010-08-04T14:17:28Z

Tigerdog: /* Part Numbers */

Brake upgrades

2009-08-17T14:51:01Z

Tigerdog: /* Wilwood 16" installation on UK S2 */

== FRONTS ==

=== AP ===

[http://www.lotusowners.com/RepairsUpgrades/Elan91BrakeUpgrade/index.htm Dave Meyer's write up]

----

=== Wilwood ===

see Brian (F1 Lotus) but in the meantime.....

====Wilwood 16" installation on UK S2====

'''''For the 16" kit I used:'''''

* 2 off custom brackets (Brian).
* 2 off custom hats (Brian).
* 2 off Wilwood 4 pot Caliper (Rally Design 120-6806) - the inlet is 1/8-27 NPT and not directly compatible with OEM hoses. NB corrected from 120-6816 as originally in this article. Brian F1Lotus spotted the error here: http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=13306&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=32
* 1 off Wilwood Pads (Rally Design 15Q-6824K).
* 2 off Wilwood Discs/Rotors (Rally Design 160-5844).
* 2 off brake hoses (Brian) - replaced with shorter Goodridge stainless hoses or place 1/2 twist in Brian's when installing.
* 16 off 5/16"-24 x 3/4" bolts {hat to rotor} ('''2''' off Rally Design 230-0150 (8pk)).
* 4 off M12x1.5-35mm bolts, property class 10.9 (SAE grade 8) preferred. Note, the 1.5 pitch is considered "fine thread". Attach (Brian's) caliper brackets to the car.
* 4 off M10x1.5-30mm '''socket head''' bolts. 1.5 pitch is normal, not fine, in M10 size. Attach the Wilwood calipers to (Brians') caliper brackets.

'''''Fitting Procedure'''''

1. Loosen wheel nuts.

2. Jack up and support with axle stands.

3. Remove wheel and angle the steering so that the front of the hub carrier is more accessible.

4. Remove two [[media:WilwoodInstall01.jpg|caps]] from caliper retaining bolts, using penknife and/or screwdriver to expose the [[media:WilwoodInstall02.jpg|caliper retaining bolts]].

5. Remove the two retaining bolts (10mm) and swing the caliper back [[media:WilwoodInstall03.jpg|out of the way]].

'''''Note: the retaining bolts are 12 mm on an S2 and the threadpitch is 1.5. This is important for point 6. when taping the hole.'''''

6. Clean the [[media:WilwoodInstall04.jpg|back of the hub carrier]] and make sure the threads are clean ALL THE WAY THROUGH. This is important otherwise you will stretch the bolts or inadequately torque up the new calipers. If you haven't got the requisite taps, cut four grooves in one of the [[media:WilwoodInstall05.jpg|old bolts]] and use that to clean up the threads - use it as a tap and take your time with ½ turn in and a whole turn out when it starts to bite.

7. Remove the [[media:WilwoodInstall06.jpg|disc retaining screw]] (4mm). Note the trouble I had getting mine out, resorting to mole grips in the end.

8. Gently tap around the edge of the disc with a copper mallet or similar until it releases, taking care not to hit the suspension and making sure to catch the disk when it does give.

9. Clean the hub and the [[media:WilwoodInstall07.jpg|tapped threads for the retaining screw]] as above.

10. Admire the [[media:WilwoodInstall08.jpg|effects of the British climate on cast iron]].

11. Smear Copaslip or similar around the back of the hub carrier and offer up the Wilwood caliper bracket. Apply Loctite 971 or similar and insert the 2 high tensile retaining bolts '''{SIZE????}'''. Torque to the [[Torque_settings|recommended torque]] and [[media:WilwoodInstall09.jpg|admire your handiwork]].

12. Offer up the top hat to the disc; Apply Loctite 971 or similar and insert the [[media:WilwoodInstall10.jpg|eight bolts with lockwashers]]. Using a 6mm hex allen driver, torque to the [[Torque_settings|recommended torque]]. Wipe any excess Loctite off the [[media:WilwoodInstall11.jpg|rear]].

13. Copaslip the hub and offer up the disc to the hub; insert the retaining screw.

14. Insert the right angle connector into the Wilwood caliper, angling the exit towards the top of the caliper. Screw in the hydraulic hose then offer up the caliper to the bracket. Apply Loctite 971 or similar and insert the 2 high tensile retaining bolts '''{SIZE???}''' Torque to the [[Torque_settings|recommended torque]] and [[media:WilwoodInstall13.jpg|admire your handiwork]].

15. Check that the disc is centrally aligned between the caliper.

'''Important note: I have Brian's original hat kit. To correctly install these hats, they need a 45 degree champfer machined on the inner face of about 3mm. just compare the hats to the original discs. I feel this may of been the source of many discs being warped, as they never spun true.'''''Italic text''

THERE WILL NOW BE A SHORT INTERLUDE - SOON IT WILL LOOK LIKE [[media:WilwoodInstall99.jpg|THIS]]

98. Remove axle stand and lower jack.

99. Tighten wheel nuts.

----

[http://brakepads.wilwood.com/03-tech/index.html Bedding in process]

----

==== Wilwood brake conversion (15” kit). ====
(Compiled using direct plagiarism by John_W from several posts on LotusElanCentral by ESM, Candles, Darren, John_W, Ailwyn, & Monty.)

''(NB: most of this also applies to the 16” kit. Somebody who has fitted the 16” kit will need to highlight the differences.''

This (in Elan terms) is a simple job. The reason it is easy is that the kit has been specifically designed by enthusiasts, not just a company mass producing a kit to fit many cars. It goes on easily, looks great and stops the car very well indeed. Maintenance is much reduced compared with standard brakes (see “maintenance” below).

With the provided hoses, connectors, brackets and fasteners the new brakes go on with no grinding, sawing, fabrication or other general mucking about. The calipers are beautifully engineered and the brackets and bells more so.

'''Tools required: '''
* Spanners:10, 11, 17, 18mm.
* If the old flexible pipe has corroded onto the hard-pipe, you may require a brake pipe spanner or 'crows foot' socket to undo the joint.
* torque wrench
* loctite
* cable ties
* jack
* axle stands
* hexagonal-head sockets (like an allen-key, but stronger): 10mm, 8mm.
* 1/4" spanner is required to bleed the Wilwood calipers.

'''The 15" kit comprises:'''
* 2 custom brackets (Brian MDB)
* 2 custom hats (Brian MDB)
* 2 plain vented discs 280x20mm (Wilwood, ex Rally Design - [http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=10024 Rally Design Part No. 160-5840])
* 2 Wilwood 4-pot calipers (ex Rally Design, Powerlite 1.38" 35.1mm, no dust seals - [http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=562_588&products_id=10498 Rally Design Part No. 120-8729])
* 1 set "Smart Pad" BP-10 ([http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=562_792_1325&products_id=10523 Rally Design Part no. 150-8813K])
* 2 hoses to fit (Brian MDB).
* 4 M12 bolts, 35mm, 1.5 pitch, class 12.9. (bracket to hub carrier)
* 4 M10 '''socket cap''' bolts, 50mm, 1.5 pitch, class 12.9 (caliper to bracket)
* 12 M8 x 25mm '''low-profile''' socket-head class G10.9 e.g from [http://www.fastfixdirect.co.uk/code/navigation.asp?Diameter=8MM&Length=25MM&Filtered=True&PageID=1&MainCategoryID=19&ProductCategoryID=422&fType=Fasteners&search=Show+Items fastfixdirect] (hat to rotor)
* 12 M8, class10, all metal, zinc plated, self locking nuts (eg Philidas mk5, as used by AP Racing with their hats & discs.)

The M8 bolts have to be low head bolts to clear the caliper mount by around 2mm, and no washer is to be used under the head for clearance reasons.

'''Preparation:'''
# Lay out all the bits somewhere clean, dry and warm. De-grease the discs (rotors). Test assemble the bits finger tight. Lacquer the aluminium bells and the iron discs (rotors) to prevent corrosion where they are in contact.
# Assemble the hats to the discs (rotors) using bolts of the correct grade and head thickness, and use a torque wrench. Bell to disc bolts should be torqued to 20nm, using loctite. The hat sits outside the disc. The nut MUST be on the hat face and visible through the wheels' spokes. ONLY use the correct grade of fasteners to mount the disc to the hat and DO NOT use washers under the bolt head (clearance is minimal).
# Lacquer the assembly to prevent/delay corrosion (not the friction faces of the discs, obviously).
[[Image:disc_hat.jpg]]

'''Disassembly:'''
Dismantle the old system in the obvious fashion.
# Use the 10mm hexagonal socket to remove the caliper mounting bolts.
# Remove the wheel-arch liners for good access and optimum positioning of spanners on the joint between the flexible pipe and hard-pipe. (Liner removal is an adventure in itself if your bolts have rusted, and you might be lucky and be able to do the job with liners in situ, but you might just damage the hard-pipe because of poor access. With the liners out, you can also clean, repaint and waxoyl everything in the region.)
# Remove the spring clip plate holding the metal end of the flexible hose onto the bracket on the chassis.
# The middle mount on the hose can be quite hard to get apart (rusted clips). If you need to cut through the old clip with a Dremel, obviously cut the clip where it overlaps the gap in the mount.
# The worst job is undoing the brake union between the flexible pipe and the hard-pipe. This is a standard right-hand thread (metric). Soak the area in releasing fluid a few days before taking it apart to help you avoid shredding a union. The mount on which the hose meets the hard pipe is probably going to be covered in crud. Before detaching the hose from the hard-pipe clean all loose corrosion/debris/crap from the area otherwise it might drop into the end of the new hose when you fit it, and clean up the hard-pipe to help in undoing the end union. Have a clean piece of paper towel handy to wrap the end in when you've undone it (slows fluid loss and keeps it clean). To undo the old hose from the hard pipe use a proper 11mm brake-pipe ring spanner or a crows-foot socket. (Note: mine didn't shift even after that lot, so I had to use vise-grips.) The end-union must unscrew freely without twisting the metal pipe. There is a risk of twisting the hard-pipe if it has become corroded/fused to the pipe, therefore the best method is to loosen this union initially by turning the 19mm spanner on the hose fitting while keeping the 11mm spanner static. This way you won't knacker the hard pipe whatever happens. If the nut is loose on the pipe you're laughing; if not then its more fiddly spinning the hose but no real bother. You’ll need a drip tray to catch the brake fluid, but you don’t need to have drained the system beforehand. If all else fails, just accept that you will have to replace the hard pipe to the master cylinder. The LHS (passenger side) looks a real pig and I would try everything to avoid replacing it, but the RHS (drivers side) only took me about an hour to replace.

'''Clean-up:'''
# Have a really good clean up. As a minimum concentrate on the hard-pipe/flexible pipe joint, the hub, and the face of the hub carrier where the brackets mate.
# Clean up the mount for the hard-pipe/flexible pipe joint, making sure the end of the hard pipe does not get dirty (cover in foil/paper towel.
# After removing the old caliper and disc from their mounts check the new aluminium caliper bracket against the hub. Give a real good clean to the surface of the hub where the new aluminium mount will go, so that it will sit nice and flat on it. If necessary, wire brush it, gave it a quick file and offer up the aluminium mount to ensure all looks well before fitting it.
# The original caliper-mounting bolts don't quite reach the end of the holes in the hub carrier, so the end of the female thread there is generally full of crud. Put in one the mounting bolts, from the normal side, and tighten it until you reach the crud then tighten and loosen in turn until you have cleaned the thread out. This ensures the new bolts will tighten onto the mount and not the crud. If you can't get the old disc off then doing this will allow you get the bolt through the mount and jack off the old disc (a trick worth knowing). If you use WD40 to help out here remember to degrease the threads thoroughly before fitting the mount at it changes the tightening torque required and stops loctite working.

'''Assembly:'''
# Seal up the “L-bend” caliper end of the new hose (foil is ok) so fluid doesn't leak out when the other end is attached then withdraw the towel from the end of the hard-pipe and attach the new hose. The thread on the end of the new flexible hose which joins onto the hard-pipe is the same as the one which you have removed, and is just a standard metric thread.
# Attach the other end of the flexible hose to the caliper. (The old standard flexible brake hoses will not fit the Wilwood calipers which do not use banjo bolts.) The flexible pipes supplied with Brian’s kit have an “L-bend” end which screws into the calipers, rather than the “banjo bolt” of the standard calipers. This “L-bend” has a 1/8-27 NPT tapered thread which should only be tightened into the caliper to about 3.3 FT/LB (4.5 N-m). This is barely more than finger tight! It does not screw all the way into the caliper or anywhere near to the bottom of its thread. Fit the clip to the hose/hard-pipe union bracket by tapping the back of it gently to force it home.
# Remember to install the disc before the caliper. You can even put the pads in just before attaching the caliper to make alignment nice and easy (it’s easy enough to insert the pads afterwards too). Obviously the disc must be well degreased before it comes into contact with the pads.
# Attach the aluminium mounting bracket to the hub carrier using the 10mm hexagonal socket on the bolts and torque to 80nm. The lightening pocket faces the car's centreline.

'''For Brian's early kits the machined recess is to the disc side, this allows for bolt clearance.
see the image in the document that illustrates this''' text''[[media:WilwoodInstall09.jpg|rear]]

Attach the caliper to its mount using the 8mm hexagonal socket on the bolts and torque to 65nm. Use loctite on all fasteners. When attaching the caliper, ensure the brake hose will lie where required and is not twisted.
# Point the brake pipe connector “L-bend” upwards, not vertical but raked slightly towards the rear of the car, and only torque them to 4.5nm. The angle of the right-angled brake union on the caliper is important. It should be adjusted by screwing the union in or out a few degrees to allow the hose to run close to the upper wishbone arm and out of the way of the wheel rim (see Darren’s photo). If the brake union points vertically up it will direct the hose to rub on the wheel rim.
# Pull the right amount of hose through to the outside of the middle attachment to allow sufficient for full lock (away) and full suspension extension. Ensure too much hose isn't pulled through or it will rub on the wheel. Now cable tie around the pipe to hold it tight and prevent it gradually sliding through the middle union.
# Check all the unions are tight then bleed the brakes.
[[Image:Hub_caliper_mount.jpg]] [[Image:Darren_brakes.jpg]]‎

'''Brake bleeding:'''
Bleeding is very easy with the Wilwoods, especially if you have only replaced the front brakes and not disturbed the rear system. There is a plethora of brake-bleeding advice on LEC for difficult cases, so this addresses the simple case only.
# You will need a 1/4” ring spanner suitable for the tiny bleed screws.
# Fill the reservoir, then bleed using your preferred method starting from the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder. (I replaced all the fluid at this time, so bled the rear brakes also.)
# I used a pressure bleeder and bled each of the four nipples on each caliper, upper ones last. However note that some of the Wilwood calipers have a tag attached which reads “For proper bleeding, bleed screws must be pointing up”, and the Rally Design website for the Dynalite 4-Pot caliper says “caliper is to be bled by releasing the top two bleed nipples only” (this is a slightly different caliper but the principle should be the same). [http://rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=562_588&products_id=8305 Rally Design].
# I'm surprised that there's no rubber dust/crap covers supplied for the nipples, so it may be an idea to buy some.

'''Important Checks (before driving the car):'''
# After bleeding, press the brake pedal a few times to ensure it’s firm then check for any leaks of hydraulic fluid. I don’t mean puddles on the floor – I mean while the wheels are off looking for any weeping of fluid.
# Put the wheels on and test-spin the wheel after you've assembled it all to make sure nothing rubs. If it does, adjust the hoses, “L-bend” union and tie-wraps.
# Then jack the car down and drive a few feet in a quiet place with the hood down to ensure you can hear if anything's rubbing with the suspension under load. Don't drive more than a few feet if you hear a rubbing noise. Fix the clearance and test again.
# If you're happy nothing's rubbing, go for a quick spin, then come back, remove the wheels and check the braided hoses again for any wear to ensure there's nothing been rubbing on them. Note that several people have experienced damage to their nice new brake hoses owing to maladjustment. '''''If the brake hoses rub through, this will cause brake failure. Do the checks.'''''

'''Bedding the brakes:'''

See the Wilwood website 'bedding' article at http://brakepads.wilwood.com/03-tech/index.html .

'''Fitment Comments:'''
# Be very careful when routing the new braided hoses, making sure they do not rub on anything, especially anything which rotates. I found it best to have the loop in the hose angled back towards the wishbone, thus giving maximum clearance to the wheel.
# Even after thorough bleeding, the brakes do not give full “feel” through the pedal until after the bedding-in procedure, and may take ten miles or so of driving to firm-up the pedal and achieve their ultimate state.
# The brakes buzz a bit on medium to heavy braking (maybe the pads resonating), but its not a problem and just sounds like the brakes biting and doing their job.
# Some people have reported a slight creaking sound if the brake pedal is pressed hard when stationary with the engine off in a quiet spot (not heard at any other time). It’s not known what it is, but it doesn't affect the stopping power. Note that this is not the clicking sound mentioned under “maintenance” below.
# see here http://brakepads.wilwood.com/01-selection/index.html for friction material applicable to both the Powerlite 1.38" 4-pots used in the ESM/BrianMDB 15" kit and the Dynalite 4-pot calipers used in their 16" kit. (I think most people went for the 'Smartpads' at about £20 a set from Rally Design http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=562_792 ; just to be different Monty has 'Poly-Q' and seems to like them. Friction vs temperature graphs can be found here http://brakepads.wilwood.com/01-selection/index.html .

'''Maintenance:'''
# The 15” Wilwood set-up uses calipers without dust-seals. This means that care has to be taken to clean the pistons before pressing them back into the caliper, e.g. when replacing pads.
# A healthy amount of copper slip around the pistons makes a decent surrogate for dust seals and should mitigate the piston slip-sticking problem described below. Just slop a load on the back of the pads at every service (that generally happens anyway to some extent to stop squeal) and once the pistons are protruding a reasonable amount actively coat them with it. Its remarkably tenacious.
# A clicking noise from the Wilwoods has been reported after a couple of winters’ use, which is due to slip-stick of one or more pistons (moving in steps instead of smoothly and bashing the back of the pads when they unstick and move - hence the noise). The solution is cleaning the pistons, as below. The noise becomes noticeable on brake application when stationary or very low speeds and is completely unnoticeable on the move at any significant speed, and brake performance remains good.
# ESM’s recommended clean-up method is to unbolt the caliper, stick a bit of wood in-between the pots so they don't come all the way out and pump the brake pedal until all the pistons move out far enough to show clean metal (it is obvious which ones are sticky as they come out after the free ones hit the wood). Then use brake cleaner and metal polish to clean the crud off. Its difficult where the clearances are small to the caliper body but a 'flossing' with a cloth and using a plastic glue mixer as a scraper works (don't use anything that will score the piston). Then spray the piston lightly with WD40, lever them back in with the bit of wood and re-assemble. The clicking noise will now be gone completely. Allow about 45 minutes a side (you probably won't need that long though). If you have let it go such that pitting/corrosion is a problem, replacement pistons are listed at about £6.50 each on Rally Design.
# The Powerlite calipers have aluminium pistons, so tend to corrode in harsh Winter environments, but can be replaced (see above).
# When renewing discs, remember to re-lacquer/paint between the aluminium hats and iron discs to prevent pitting on the face of the aluminium hat where it mates with the disc, owing to galvanic corrosion.
# If you get your wheels balanced, recheck for adequate clearance of the hoses. The plastic sheathing of one of my hoses was nicked by wheel balance weights.

----

=== Highspec ===
see Philbo

----

=== Brembo ===
see LGM

----

== REARS ==

=== Darrens ===
[http://www.lotuselancentral.com/lec/GMRearCaliper.pdf Darren's solution]

=== Dorman ===

see Algirdas

[[Category:Incomplete]][[Category:Brakes]]

Base Timing

2009-07-05T21:55:38Z

Tigerdog: /* The adjustment procedure is as follows: */

The base ignition timing is set by altering the position of the magnetic pickup relative to the reflector wheel, by rotating the cam angle sensor (CAS). Please be familiar with the [[CAS]] write-up before proceeding.

{{warning|text=
Please be careful ! If you damage your Elan or endanger your life as a result of something you read here, it is your responsibility. Please use common sense.}}

===Tools needed for adjusting timing:===

* Timing light
* Paper clip
* Allen wrench
* An assistant!

===Have the engine in these conditions before staring procedure:===

* Engine coolant at normal operating temperature - cooling fans cycled on and off
* All electrical accessories and air conditioning turned off
* Steering wheel in the neutral position
* '''Transmission in neutral !'''

===The adjustment procedure is as follows:===
[[Image:TimingMarks.gif|thumbnail|Timing marks]]
# Open the rear convertible top stowage area.
# Pull back the right side of the carpet to reveal the battery compartment cover.
# Remove this cover so access to the battery's terminals are available.
# Open the hood/bonnet so you can get access to the spark wires. You must remove the 6 hex-head end cap screws to get to the wires.
# Jack up the right front wheel and remove it Remember Jack Safety! Set the wheel aside carefully and put a jackstand under the [[Jacking Points]].
#Locate the "timing degree marks" on a small metal square next to the timing belt pulley--be sure it is clean and visible! Inspect the condition of the other drive belts. If they are cracked, they should be replaced !
# Find the little "v"-shaped nick in the timing pulley--> when setting the timing, you will see this nick across from the degree marks with the flashing strobe--> the number across from the nick as the strobe flashes is your current timing. (Hint: to see these marks better, and make them more visible while spinning, you can gently put a bit of white chalk on them; but do not put too big a mark as to obscure the fine nature of them!)
# Start car. Be careful as it is on a jackstand!!
# Put the car's ECU into ''Service Mode'' -- this mode locks out all engine sensors from inputting to the ECU. This is done by inserting a paper clip into the ALDL. Put in the clip while the car is running at idle with all electrical accessories '''off.''' The clip should be oriented the same way as you would to check your [[Check Engine Light Problems|check engine]] light. (You must see ALDL diagnosis for details if you are not familiar with this). The ''Check Engine'' light will flash continually throughout the procedure to confirm the car is in ''Service Mode.''
# Connect the timing light as usual. One clamp goes to the battery's ''positive'' lead, one goes to the battery's ''negative'' lead, and the other goes to the ''number one'' spark plug wire. The ''number one'' wire is the one travelling to the cylinder on the right side end of the engine--this is the one closest to the timing belt end and farthest from the CAS. You will need to remove the cam cover plate by removing the 6 hex cap screws to attach the timing lead. (get the Allen wrench out of the car's tool kit in the trunk if you do not have another one!)
# '''Important: now you must slowly raise the engine speed over 2,000 rpm, then return to idle slowly to reset the IAC valve (at the 20 count position).'''
# Using the timing marks on the pulley, note the base ignition timing with the strobe light. '''Specification = 16 degrees BTDC (Before Top Dead Centre)'''. You will need to stick your head into the wheel well to get a good view of the timing marks. Block out any excess light so you can see the timing marks (use a flashlight if needed). Take your time and be sure you see them well![[Image:CASadjustment.gif|thumbnail|Cam Angle Sensor (CAS) adjustment]]
# If the timing is not correct (it never is!), one person will need to watch the timing strobe carefully while the other slowly adjusts the timing! ''''' DO NOT get your fingers anywhere near the pulleys or the aux. cooling fans!'''''
#If necessary, gently slacken the cam angle sensor housing clamp bolt (it needs a 6mm hex wrench), and then rotate the housing in tiny amounts as required to achieve proper timing.
#To increase the timing degrees, raise the front of the CAS a tiny increment by gently tapping it upwards; to decrease the timing degrees, lower the front of the CAS a tiny increment by gently tapping it downwards.
# Tighten the clamp bolt to 24 Nm (17 lbf.ft) when the timing is perfect.
# When done, take the car out of ''Service Mode'' and cycle the engine RPM. Then return it to ''Service Mode'' for a final timing check.
# Clean up your mess! Remember to torque wheel bolts to 59 - 65 lb.ft (80 - 88 N.m)

''Based on Lotus Service Note EMK.3 - N''
[[Category:HowTo]]

Brake upgrades

2008-08-08T18:02:34Z

Tigerdog: /* Wilwood 16" installation on UK S2 */

== FRONTS ==

=== AP ===

[http://www.lotusowners.com/RepairsUpgrades/Elan91BrakeUpgrade/index.htm Dave Meyer's write up]

----

=== Wilwood ===

see Brian (F1 Lotus) but in the meantime.....

====Wilwood 16" installation on UK S2====

'''''For the 16" kit I used:'''''

* 2 off custom brackets (Brian).
* 2 off custom hats (Brian).
* 2 off Wilwood 4 pot Caliper (Rally Design 120-6816).
* 1 off Wilwood Pads (Rally Design 15Q-6824K).
* 2 off Wilwood Discs/Rotors (Rally Design 160-5844).
* 2 off brake hoses (Brian) - replaced with shorter Goodridge stainless hoses or place 1/2 twist in Brian's when installing.
* 16 off 5/16"-24 x 3/4" bolts {hat to rotor} ('''2''' off Rally Design 230-0150 (8pk)).
* 4 off M12x1.5-35mm bolts, grade 10.9 preferred. Note, the 1.5 pitch is considered "fine thread". Attach (Brian's) caliper brackets to the car.
* 4 off M10x1.5-30mm '''socket head''' bolts. 1.5 pitch is normal, not fine, in M10 size. Attach the Wilwood calipers to (Brians') caliper brackets.

'''''Fitting Procedure'''''

1. Loosen wheel nuts.

2. Jack up and support with axle stands.

3. Remove wheel and angle the steering so that the front of the hub carrier is more accessible.

4. Remove two [[media:WilwoodInstall01.jpg|caps]] from caliper retaining bolts, using penknife and/or screwdriver to expose the [[media:WilwoodInstall02.jpg|caliper retaining bolts]].

5. Remove the two retaining bolts (10mm) and swing the caliper back [[media:WilwoodInstall03.jpg|out of the way]].

'''''Note: the retaining bolts are 12 mm on an S2 and the threadpitch is 1.5. This is important for point 6. when taping the hole.'''''

6. Clean the [[media:WilwoodInstall04.jpg|back of the hub carrier]] and make sure the threads are clean ALL THE WAY THROUGH. This is important otherwise you will stretch the bolts or inadequately torque up the new calipers. If you haven't got the requisite taps, cut four grooves in one of the [[media:WilwoodInstall05.jpg|old bolts]] and use that to clean up the threads - use it as a tap and take your time with ½ turn in and a whole turn out when it starts to bite.

7. Remove the [[media:WilwoodInstall06.jpg|disc retaining screw]] (4mm). Note the trouble I had getting mine out, resorting to mole grips in the end.

8. Gently tap around the edge of the disc with a copper mallet or similar until it releases, taking care not to hit the suspension and making sure to catch the disk when it does give.

9. Clean the hub and the [[media:WilwoodInstall07.jpg|tapped threads for the retaining screw]] as above.

10. Admire the [[media:WilwoodInstall08.jpg|effects of the British climate on cast iron]].

11. Smear Copaslip or similar around the back of the hub carrier and offer up the Wilwood caliper bracket. Apply Loctite 971 or similar and insert the 2 high tensile retaining bolts '''{SIZE????}'''. Torque to the [[Torque_settings|recommended torque]] and [[media:WilwoodInstall09.jpg|admire your handiwork]].

12. Offer up the top hat to the disc; Apply Loctite 971 or similar and insert the [[media:WilwoodInstall10.jpg|eight bolts with lockwashers]]. Using a 6mm hex allen driver, torque to the [[Torque_settings|recommended torque]]. Wipe any excess Loctite off the [[media:WilwoodInstall11.jpg|rear]].

13. Copaslip the hub and offer up the disc to the hub; insert the retaining screw.

14. Insert the right angle connector into the Wilwood caliper, angling the exit towards the top of the caliper. Screw in the hydraulic hose then offer up the caliper to the bracket. Apply Loctite 971 or similar and insert the 2 high tensile retaining bolts '''{SIZE???}''' Torque to the [[Torque_settings|recommended torque]] and [[media:WilwoodInstall13.jpg|admire your handiwork]].

15. Check that the disc is centrally aligned between the caliper.

'''Important note: I have Brian's original hat kit. To correctly install these hats, they need a 45 degree champfer machined on the inner face of about 3mm. just compare the hats to the original discs. I feel this may of been the source of many discs being warped, as they never spun true.'''''Italic text''

THERE WILL NOW BE A SHORT INTERLUDE - SOON IT WILL LOOK LIKE [[media:WilwoodInstall99.jpg|THIS]]

98. Remove axle stand and lower jack.

99. Tighten wheel nuts.

----

[http://brakepads.wilwood.com/03-tech/index.html Bedding in process]

----

==== Wilwood brake conversion (15” kit). ====
(Compiled using direct plagiarism by John_W from several posts on LotusElanCentral by ESM, Candles, Darren, John_W, Ailwyn, & Monty.)

''(NB: most of this also applies to the 16” kit. Somebody who has fitted the 16” kit will need to highlight the differences.''

This (in Elan terms) is a simple job. The reason it is easy is that the kit has been specifically designed by enthusiasts, not just a company mass producing a kit to fit many cars. It goes on easily, looks great and stops the car very well indeed. Maintenance is much reduced compared with standard brakes (see “maintenance” below).

With the provided hoses, connectors, brackets and fasteners the new brakes go on with no grinding, sawing, fabrication or other general mucking about. The calipers are beautifully engineered and the brackets and bells more so.

'''Tools required: '''
* Spanners:10, 11, 17, 18mm.
* If the old flexible pipe has corroded onto the hard-pipe, you may require a brake pipe spanner or 'crows foot' socket to undo the joint.
* torque wrench
* loctite
* cable ties
* jack
* axle stands
* hexagonal-head sockets (like an allen-key, but stronger): 10mm, 8mm.
* 1/4" spanner is required to bleed the Wilwood calipers.

'''The 15" kit comprises:'''
* 2 custom brackets (Brian MDB)
* 2 custom hats (Brian MDB)
* 2 plain vented discs 280x20mm (Wilwood, ex Rally Design - [http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=10024 Rally Design Part No. 160-5840])
* 2 Wilwood 4-pot calipers (ex Rally Design, Powerlite 1.38" 35.1mm, no dust seals - [http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=562_588&products_id=10498 Rally Design Part No. 120-8729])
* 1 set "Smart Pad" BP-10 ([http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=562_792_1325&products_id=10523 Rally Design Part no. 150-8813K])
* 2 hoses to fit (Brian MDB).
* 4 M12 bolts, 35mm, 1.5 pitch, class 12.9. (bracket to hub carrier)
* 4 M10 '''socket cap''' bolts, 50mm, 1.5 pitch, class 12.9 (caliper to bracket)
* 12 M8 x 25mm '''low-profile''' socket-head class G10.9 e.g from [http://www.fastfixdirect.co.uk/code/navigation.asp?Diameter=8MM&Length=25MM&Filtered=True&PageID=1&MainCategoryID=19&ProductCategoryID=422&fType=Fasteners&search=Show+Items fastfixdirect] (hat to rotor)
* 12 M8, class10, all metal, zinc plated, self locking nuts (eg Philidas mk5, as used by AP Racing with their hats & discs.)

The M8 bolts have to be low head bolts to clear the caliper mount by around 2mm, and no washer is to be used under the head for clearance reasons.

'''Preparation:'''
# Lay out all the bits somewhere clean, dry and warm. De-grease the discs (rotors). Test assemble the bits finger tight. Lacquer the aluminium bells and the iron discs (rotors) to prevent corrosion where they are in contact.
# Assemble the hats to the discs (rotors) using bolts of the correct grade and head thickness, and use a torque wrench. Bell to disc bolts should be torqued to 20nm, using loctite. The hat sits outside the disc. The nut MUST be on the hat face and visible through the wheels' spokes. ONLY use the correct grade of fasteners to mount the disc to the hat and DO NOT use washers under the bolt head (clearance is minimal).
# Lacquer the assembly to prevent/delay corrosion (not the friction faces of the discs, obviously).
[[Image:disc_hat.jpg]]

'''Disassembly:'''
Dismantle the old system in the obvious fashion.
# Use the 10mm hexagonal socket to remove the caliper mounting bolts.
# Remove the wheel-arch liners for good access and optimum positioning of spanners on the joint between the flexible pipe and hard-pipe. (Liner removal is an adventure in itself if your bolts have rusted, and you might be lucky and be able to do the job with liners in situ, but you might just damage the hard-pipe because of poor access. With the liners out, you can also clean, repaint and waxoyl everything in the region.)
# Remove the spring clip plate holding the metal end of the flexible hose onto the bracket on the chassis.
# The middle mount on the hose can be quite hard to get apart (rusted clips). If you need to cut through the old clip with a Dremel, obviously cut the clip where it overlaps the gap in the mount.
# The worst job is undoing the brake union between the flexible pipe and the hard-pipe. This is a standard right-hand thread (metric). Soak the area in releasing fluid a few days before taking it apart to help you avoid shredding a union. The mount on which the hose meets the hard pipe is probably going to be covered in crud. Before detaching the hose from the hard-pipe clean all loose corrosion/debris/crap from the area otherwise it might drop into the end of the new hose when you fit it, and clean up the hard-pipe to help in undoing the end union. Have a clean piece of paper towel handy to wrap the end in when you've undone it (slows fluid loss and keeps it clean). To undo the old hose from the hard pipe use a proper 11mm brake-pipe ring spanner or a crows-foot socket. (Note: mine didn't shift even after that lot, so I had to use vise-grips.) The end-union must unscrew freely without twisting the metal pipe. There is a risk of twisting the hard-pipe if it has become corroded/fused to the pipe, therefore the best method is to loosen this union initially by turning the 19mm spanner on the hose fitting while keeping the 11mm spanner static. This way you won't knacker the hard pipe whatever happens. If the nut is loose on the pipe you're laughing; if not then its more fiddly spinning the hose but no real bother. You’ll need a drip tray to catch the brake fluid, but you don’t need to have drained the system beforehand. If all else fails, just accept that you will have to replace the hard pipe to the master cylinder. The LHS (passenger side) looks a real pig and I would try everything to avoid replacing it, but the RHS (drivers side) only took me about an hour to replace.

'''Clean-up:'''
# Have a really good clean up. As a minimum concentrate on the hard-pipe/flexible pipe joint, the hub, and the face of the hub carrier where the brackets mate.
# Clean up the mount for the hard-pipe/flexible pipe joint, making sure the end of the hard pipe does not get dirty (cover in foil/paper towel.
# After removing the old caliper and disc from their mounts check the new aluminium caliper bracket against the hub. Give a real good clean to the surface of the hub where the new aluminium mount will go, so that it will sit nice and flat on it. If necessary, wire brush it, gave it a quick file and offer up the aluminium mount to ensure all looks well before fitting it.
# The original caliper-mounting bolts don't quite reach the end of the holes in the hub carrier, so the end of the female thread there is generally full of crud. Put in one the mounting bolts, from the normal side, and tighten it until you reach the crud then tighten and loosen in turn until you have cleaned the thread out. This ensures the new bolts will tighten onto the mount and not the crud. If you can't get the old disc off then doing this will allow you get the bolt through the mount and jack off the old disc (a trick worth knowing). If you use WD40 to help out here remember to degrease the threads thoroughly before fitting the mount at it changes the tightening torque required and stops loctite working.

'''Assembly:'''
# Seal up the “L-bend” caliper end of the new hose (foil is ok) so fluid doesn't leak out when the other end is attached then withdraw the towel from the end of the hard-pipe and attach the new hose. The thread on the end of the new flexible hose which joins onto the hard-pipe is the same as the one which you have removed, and is just a standard metric thread.
# Attach the other end of the flexible hose to the caliper. (The old standard flexible brake hoses will not fit the Wilwood calipers which do not use banjo bolts.) The flexible pipes supplied with Brian’s kit have an “L-bend” end which screws into the calipers, rather than the “banjo bolt” of the standard calipers. This “L-bend” has a 1/8-27 NPT tapered thread which should only be tightened into the caliper to about 3.3 FT/LB (4.5 N-m). This is barely more than finger tight! It does not screw all the way into the caliper or anywhere near to the bottom of its thread. Fit the clip to the hose/hard-pipe union bracket by tapping the back of it gently to force it home.
# Remember to install the disc before the caliper. You can even put the pads in just before attaching the caliper to make alignment nice and easy (it’s easy enough to insert the pads afterwards too). Obviously the disc must be well degreased before it comes into contact with the pads.
# Attach the aluminium mounting bracket to the hub carrier using the 10mm hexagonal socket on the bolts and torque to 80nm. The lightening pocket faces the car's centreline.

'''For Brian's early kits the machined recess is to the disc side, this allows for bolt clearance.
see the image in the document that illustrates this''' text''[[media:WilwoodInstall09.jpg|rear]]

Attach the caliper to its mount using the 8mm hexagonal socket on the bolts and torque to 65nm. Use loctite on all fasteners. When attaching the caliper, ensure the brake hose will lie where required and is not twisted.
# Point the brake pipe connector “L-bend” upwards, not vertical but raked slightly towards the rear of the car, and only torque them to 4.5nm. The angle of the right-angled brake union on the caliper is important. It should be adjusted by screwing the union in or out a few degrees to allow the hose to run close to the upper wishbone arm and out of the way of the wheel rim (see Darren’s photo). If the brake union points vertically up it will direct the hose to rub on the wheel rim.
# Pull the right amount of hose through to the outside of the middle attachment to allow sufficient for full lock (away) and full suspension extension. Ensure too much hose isn't pulled through or it will rub on the wheel. Now cable tie around the pipe to hold it tight and prevent it gradually sliding through the middle union.
# Check all the unions are tight then bleed the brakes.
[[Image:Hub_caliper_mount.jpg]] [[Image:Darren_brakes.jpg]]‎

'''Brake bleeding:'''
Bleeding is very easy with the Wilwoods, especially if you have only replaced the front brakes and not disturbed the rear system. There is a plethora of brake-bleeding advice on LEC for difficult cases, so this addresses the simple case only.
# You will need a 1/4” ring spanner suitable for the tiny bleed screws.
# Fill the reservoir, then bleed using your preferred method starting from the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder. (I replaced all the fluid at this time, so bled the rear brakes also.)
# I used a pressure bleeder and bled each of the four nipples on each caliper, upper ones last. However note that some of the Wilwood calipers have a tag attached which reads “For proper bleeding, bleed screws must be pointing up”, and the Rally Design website for the Dynalite 4-Pot caliper says “caliper is to be bled by releasing the top two bleed nipples only” (this is a slightly different caliper but the principle should be the same). [http://rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=562_588&products_id=8305 Rally Design].
# I'm surprised that there's no rubber dust/crap covers supplied for the nipples, so it may be an idea to buy some.

'''Important Checks (before driving the car):'''
# After bleeding, press the brake pedal a few times to ensure it’s firm then check for any leaks of hydraulic fluid. I don’t mean puddles on the floor – I mean while the wheels are off looking for any weeping of fluid.
# Put the wheels on and test-spin the wheel after you've assembled it all to make sure nothing rubs. If it does, adjust the hoses, “L-bend” union and tie-wraps.
# Then jack the car down and drive a few feet in a quiet place with the hood down to ensure you can hear if anything's rubbing with the suspension under load. Don't drive more than a few feet if you hear a rubbing noise. Fix the clearance and test again.
# If you're happy nothing's rubbing, go for a quick spin, then come back, remove the wheels and check the braided hoses again for any wear to ensure there's nothing been rubbing on them. Note that several people have experienced damage to their nice new brake hoses owing to maladjustment. '''''If the brake hoses rub through, this will cause brake failure. Do the checks.'''''

'''Bedding the brakes:'''

See the Wilwood website 'bedding' article at http://brakepads.wilwood.com/03-tech/index.html .

'''Fitment Comments:'''
# Be very careful when routing the new braided hoses, making sure they do not rub on anything, especially anything which rotates. I found it best to have the loop in the hose angled back towards the wishbone, thus giving maximum clearance to the wheel.
# Even after thorough bleeding, the brakes do not give full “feel” through the pedal until after the bedding-in procedure, and may take ten miles or so of driving to firm-up the pedal and achieve their ultimate state.
# The brakes buzz a bit on medium to heavy braking (maybe the pads resonating), but its not a problem and just sounds like the brakes biting and doing their job.
# Some people have reported a slight creaking sound if the brake pedal is pressed hard when stationary with the engine off in a quiet spot (not heard at any other time). It’s not known what it is, but it doesn't affect the stopping power. Note that this is not the clicking sound mentioned under “maintenance” below.
# see here http://brakepads.wilwood.com/01-selection/index.html for friction material applicable to both the Powerlite 1.38" 4-pots used in the ESM/BrianMDB 15" kit and the Dynalite 4-pot calipers used in their 16" kit. (I think most people went for the 'Smartpads' at about £20 a set from Rally Design http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=562_792 ; just to be different Monty has 'Poly-Q' and seems to like them. Friction vs temperature graphs can be found here http://brakepads.wilwood.com/01-selection/index.html .

'''Maintenance:'''
# The 15” Wilwood set-up uses calipers without dust-seals. This means that care has to be taken to clean the pistons before pressing them back into the caliper, e.g. when replacing pads.
# A healthy amount of copper slip around the pistons makes a decent surrogate for dust seals and should mitigate the piston slip-sticking problem described below. Just slop a load on the back of the pads at every service (that generally happens anyway to some extent to stop squeal) and once the pistons are protruding a reasonable amount actively coat them with it. Its remarkably tenacious.
# A clicking noise from the Wilwoods has been reported after a couple of winters’ use, which is due to slip-stick of one or more pistons (moving in steps instead of smoothly and bashing the back of the pads when they unstick and move - hence the noise). The solution is cleaning the pistons, as below. The noise becomes noticeable on brake application when stationary or very low speeds and is completely unnoticeable on the move at any significant speed, and brake performance remains good.
# ESM’s recommended clean-up method is to unbolt the caliper, stick a bit of wood in-between the pots so they don't come all the way out and pump the brake pedal until all the pistons move out far enough to show clean metal (it is obvious which ones are sticky as they come out after the free ones hit the wood). Then use brake cleaner and metal polish to clean the crud off. Its difficult where the clearances are small to the caliper body but a 'flossing' with a cloth and using a plastic glue mixer as a scraper works (don't use anything that will score the piston). Then spray the piston lightly with WD40, lever them back in with the bit of wood and re-assemble. The clicking noise will now be gone completely. Allow about 45 minutes a side (you probably won't need that long though). If you have let it go such that pitting/corrosion is a problem, replacement pistons are listed at about £6.50 each on Rally Design.
# When renewing discs, remember to re-lacquer/paint between the aluminium hats and iron discs to prevent pitting on the face of the aluminium hat where it mates with the disc, owing to galvanic corrosion.
# If you get your wheels balanced, recheck for adequate clearance of the hoses. The plastic sheathing of one of my hoses was nicked by wheel balance weights.

----

=== Highspec ===
see Philbo

----

=== Brembo ===
see LGM

----

== REARS ==

=== Darrens ===
[http://www.lotuselancentral.com/lec/GMRearCaliper.pdf Darren's solution]

=== Dorman ===

see Algirdas

[[Category:Incomplete]][[Category:Brakes]]

Brake upgrades

2008-08-08T17:54:54Z

Tigerdog: /* Wilwood 16" installation on UK S2 */

== FRONTS ==

=== AP ===

[http://www.lotusowners.com/RepairsUpgrades/Elan91BrakeUpgrade/index.htm Dave Meyer's write up]

----

=== Wilwood ===

see Brian (F1 Lotus) but in the meantime.....

====Wilwood 16" installation on UK S2====

'''''For the 16" kit I used:'''''

* 2 off custom brackets (Brian).
* 2 off custom hats (Brian).
* 2 off Wilwood 4 pot Caliper (Rally Design 120-6816).
* 1 off Wilwood Pads (Rally Design 15Q-6824K).
* 2 off Wilwood Discs/Rotors (Rally Design 160-5844).
* 2 off brake hoses (Brian) - replaced with shorter Goodridge stainless hoses as originals slightly too long.
* 16 off 5/16"-24 x 3/4" bolts {hat to rotor} ('''2''' off Rally Design 230-0150 (8pk)).
* 4 off M12 x 35mm bolts, 1.5 pitch, to attach the caliper brackets to the car.
* 4 off M10 x 30mm '''socket head''' bolts, 1.5 pitch, to attach the Wilwood calipers to (Brians') caliper brackets.

'''''Fitting Procedure'''''

1. Loosen wheel nuts.

2. Jack up and support with axle stands.

3. Remove wheel and angle the steering so that the front of the hub carrier is more accessible.

4. Remove two [[media:WilwoodInstall01.jpg|caps]] from caliper retaining bolts, using penknife and/or screwdriver to expose the [[media:WilwoodInstall02.jpg|caliper retaining bolts]].

5. Remove the two retaining bolts (10mm) and swing the caliper back [[media:WilwoodInstall03.jpg|out of the way]].

'''''Note: the retaining bolts are 12 mm on an S2 and the threadpitch is 1.5. This is important for point 6. when taping the hole.'''''

6. Clean the [[media:WilwoodInstall04.jpg|back of the hub carrier]] and make sure the threads are clean ALL THE WAY THROUGH. This is important otherwise you will stretch the bolts or inadequately torque up the new calipers. If you haven't got the requisite taps, cut four grooves in one of the [[media:WilwoodInstall05.jpg|old bolts]] and use that to clean up the threads - use it as a tap and take your time with ½ turn in and a whole turn out when it starts to bite.

7. Remove the [[media:WilwoodInstall06.jpg|disc retaining screw]] (4mm). Note the trouble I had getting mine out, resorting to mole grips in the end.

8. Gently tap around the edge of the disc with a copper mallet or similar until it releases, taking care not to hit the suspension and making sure to catch the disk when it does give.

9. Clean the hub and the [[media:WilwoodInstall07.jpg|tapped threads for the retaining screw]] as above.

10. Admire the [[media:WilwoodInstall08.jpg|effects of the British climate on cast iron]].

11. Smear Copaslip or similar around the back of the hub carrier and offer up the Wilwood caliper bracket. Apply Loctite 971 or similar and insert the 2 high tensile retaining bolts '''{SIZE????}'''. Torque to the [[Torque_settings|recommended torque]] and [[media:WilwoodInstall09.jpg|admire your handiwork]].

12. Offer up the top hat to the disc; Apply Loctite 971 or similar and insert the [[media:WilwoodInstall10.jpg|eight bolts with lockwashers]]. Using a 6mm hex allen driver, torque to the [[Torque_settings|recommended torque]]. Wipe any excess Loctite off the [[media:WilwoodInstall11.jpg|rear]].

13. Copaslip the hub and offer up the disc to the hub; insert the retaining screw.

14. Insert the right angle connector into the Wilwood caliper, angling the exit towards the top of the caliper. Screw in the hydraulic hose then offer up the caliper to the bracket. Apply Loctite 971 or similar and insert the 2 high tensile retaining bolts '''{SIZE???}''' Torque to the [[Torque_settings|recommended torque]] and [[media:WilwoodInstall13.jpg|admire your handiwork]].

15. Check that the disc is centrally aligned between the caliper.

'''Important note: I have Brian's original hat kit. To correctly install these hats, they need a 45 degree champfer machined on the inner face of about 3mm. just compare the hats to the original discs. I feel this may of been the source of many discs being warped, as they never spun true.'''''Italic text''

THERE WILL NOW BE A SHORT INTERLUDE - SOON IT WILL LOOK LIKE [[media:WilwoodInstall99.jpg|THIS]]

98. Remove axle stand and lower jack.

99. Tighten wheel nuts.

----

[http://brakepads.wilwood.com/03-tech/index.html Bedding in process]

----

==== Wilwood brake conversion (15” kit). ====
(Compiled using direct plagiarism by John_W from several posts on LotusElanCentral by ESM, Candles, Darren, John_W, Ailwyn, & Monty.)

''(NB: most of this also applies to the 16” kit. Somebody who has fitted the 16” kit will need to highlight the differences.''

This (in Elan terms) is a simple job. The reason it is easy is that the kit has been specifically designed by enthusiasts, not just a company mass producing a kit to fit many cars. It goes on easily, looks great and stops the car very well indeed. Maintenance is much reduced compared with standard brakes (see “maintenance” below).

With the provided hoses, connectors, brackets and fasteners the new brakes go on with no grinding, sawing, fabrication or other general mucking about. The calipers are beautifully engineered and the brackets and bells more so.

'''Tools required: '''
* Spanners:10, 11, 17, 18mm.
* If the old flexible pipe has corroded onto the hard-pipe, you may require a brake pipe spanner or 'crows foot' socket to undo the joint.
* torque wrench
* loctite
* cable ties
* jack
* axle stands
* hexagonal-head sockets (like an allen-key, but stronger): 10mm, 8mm.
* 1/4" spanner is required to bleed the Wilwood calipers.

'''The 15" kit comprises:'''
* 2 custom brackets (Brian MDB)
* 2 custom hats (Brian MDB)
* 2 plain vented discs 280x20mm (Wilwood, ex Rally Design - [http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=10024 Rally Design Part No. 160-5840])
* 2 Wilwood 4-pot calipers (ex Rally Design, Powerlite 1.38" 35.1mm, no dust seals - [http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=562_588&products_id=10498 Rally Design Part No. 120-8729])
* 1 set "Smart Pad" BP-10 ([http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=562_792_1325&products_id=10523 Rally Design Part no. 150-8813K])
* 2 hoses to fit (Brian MDB).
* 4 M12 bolts, 35mm, 1.5 pitch, class 12.9. (bracket to hub carrier)
* 4 M10 '''socket cap''' bolts, 50mm, 1.5 pitch, class 12.9 (caliper to bracket)
* 12 M8 x 25mm '''low-profile''' socket-head class G10.9 e.g from [http://www.fastfixdirect.co.uk/code/navigation.asp?Diameter=8MM&Length=25MM&Filtered=True&PageID=1&MainCategoryID=19&ProductCategoryID=422&fType=Fasteners&search=Show+Items fastfixdirect] (hat to rotor)
* 12 M8, class10, all metal, zinc plated, self locking nuts (eg Philidas mk5, as used by AP Racing with their hats & discs.)

The M8 bolts have to be low head bolts to clear the caliper mount by around 2mm, and no washer is to be used under the head for clearance reasons.

'''Preparation:'''
# Lay out all the bits somewhere clean, dry and warm. De-grease the discs (rotors). Test assemble the bits finger tight. Lacquer the aluminium bells and the iron discs (rotors) to prevent corrosion where they are in contact.
# Assemble the hats to the discs (rotors) using bolts of the correct grade and head thickness, and use a torque wrench. Bell to disc bolts should be torqued to 20nm, using loctite. The hat sits outside the disc. The nut MUST be on the hat face and visible through the wheels' spokes. ONLY use the correct grade of fasteners to mount the disc to the hat and DO NOT use washers under the bolt head (clearance is minimal).
# Lacquer the assembly to prevent/delay corrosion (not the friction faces of the discs, obviously).
[[Image:disc_hat.jpg]]

'''Disassembly:'''
Dismantle the old system in the obvious fashion.
# Use the 10mm hexagonal socket to remove the caliper mounting bolts.
# Remove the wheel-arch liners for good access and optimum positioning of spanners on the joint between the flexible pipe and hard-pipe. (Liner removal is an adventure in itself if your bolts have rusted, and you might be lucky and be able to do the job with liners in situ, but you might just damage the hard-pipe because of poor access. With the liners out, you can also clean, repaint and waxoyl everything in the region.)
# Remove the spring clip plate holding the metal end of the flexible hose onto the bracket on the chassis.
# The middle mount on the hose can be quite hard to get apart (rusted clips). If you need to cut through the old clip with a Dremel, obviously cut the clip where it overlaps the gap in the mount.
# The worst job is undoing the brake union between the flexible pipe and the hard-pipe. This is a standard right-hand thread (metric). Soak the area in releasing fluid a few days before taking it apart to help you avoid shredding a union. The mount on which the hose meets the hard pipe is probably going to be covered in crud. Before detaching the hose from the hard-pipe clean all loose corrosion/debris/crap from the area otherwise it might drop into the end of the new hose when you fit it, and clean up the hard-pipe to help in undoing the end union. Have a clean piece of paper towel handy to wrap the end in when you've undone it (slows fluid loss and keeps it clean). To undo the old hose from the hard pipe use a proper 11mm brake-pipe ring spanner or a crows-foot socket. (Note: mine didn't shift even after that lot, so I had to use vise-grips.) The end-union must unscrew freely without twisting the metal pipe. There is a risk of twisting the hard-pipe if it has become corroded/fused to the pipe, therefore the best method is to loosen this union initially by turning the 19mm spanner on the hose fitting while keeping the 11mm spanner static. This way you won't knacker the hard pipe whatever happens. If the nut is loose on the pipe you're laughing; if not then its more fiddly spinning the hose but no real bother. You’ll need a drip tray to catch the brake fluid, but you don’t need to have drained the system beforehand. If all else fails, just accept that you will have to replace the hard pipe to the master cylinder. The LHS (passenger side) looks a real pig and I would try everything to avoid replacing it, but the RHS (drivers side) only took me about an hour to replace.

'''Clean-up:'''
# Have a really good clean up. As a minimum concentrate on the hard-pipe/flexible pipe joint, the hub, and the face of the hub carrier where the brackets mate.
# Clean up the mount for the hard-pipe/flexible pipe joint, making sure the end of the hard pipe does not get dirty (cover in foil/paper towel.
# After removing the old caliper and disc from their mounts check the new aluminium caliper bracket against the hub. Give a real good clean to the surface of the hub where the new aluminium mount will go, so that it will sit nice and flat on it. If necessary, wire brush it, gave it a quick file and offer up the aluminium mount to ensure all looks well before fitting it.
# The original caliper-mounting bolts don't quite reach the end of the holes in the hub carrier, so the end of the female thread there is generally full of crud. Put in one the mounting bolts, from the normal side, and tighten it until you reach the crud then tighten and loosen in turn until you have cleaned the thread out. This ensures the new bolts will tighten onto the mount and not the crud. If you can't get the old disc off then doing this will allow you get the bolt through the mount and jack off the old disc (a trick worth knowing). If you use WD40 to help out here remember to degrease the threads thoroughly before fitting the mount at it changes the tightening torque required and stops loctite working.

'''Assembly:'''
# Seal up the “L-bend” caliper end of the new hose (foil is ok) so fluid doesn't leak out when the other end is attached then withdraw the towel from the end of the hard-pipe and attach the new hose. The thread on the end of the new flexible hose which joins onto the hard-pipe is the same as the one which you have removed, and is just a standard metric thread.
# Attach the other end of the flexible hose to the caliper. (The old standard flexible brake hoses will not fit the Wilwood calipers which do not use banjo bolts.) The flexible pipes supplied with Brian’s kit have an “L-bend” end which screws into the calipers, rather than the “banjo bolt” of the standard calipers. This “L-bend” has a 1/8-27 NPT tapered thread which should only be tightened into the caliper to about 3.3 FT/LB (4.5 N-m). This is barely more than finger tight! It does not screw all the way into the caliper or anywhere near to the bottom of its thread. Fit the clip to the hose/hard-pipe union bracket by tapping the back of it gently to force it home.
# Remember to install the disc before the caliper. You can even put the pads in just before attaching the caliper to make alignment nice and easy (it’s easy enough to insert the pads afterwards too). Obviously the disc must be well degreased before it comes into contact with the pads.
# Attach the aluminium mounting bracket to the hub carrier using the 10mm hexagonal socket on the bolts and torque to 80nm. The lightening pocket faces the car's centreline.

'''For Brian's early kits the machined recess is to the disc side, this allows for bolt clearance.
see the image in the document that illustrates this''' text''[[media:WilwoodInstall09.jpg|rear]]

Attach the caliper to its mount using the 8mm hexagonal socket on the bolts and torque to 65nm. Use loctite on all fasteners. When attaching the caliper, ensure the brake hose will lie where required and is not twisted.
# Point the brake pipe connector “L-bend” upwards, not vertical but raked slightly towards the rear of the car, and only torque them to 4.5nm. The angle of the right-angled brake union on the caliper is important. It should be adjusted by screwing the union in or out a few degrees to allow the hose to run close to the upper wishbone arm and out of the way of the wheel rim (see Darren’s photo). If the brake union points vertically up it will direct the hose to rub on the wheel rim.
# Pull the right amount of hose through to the outside of the middle attachment to allow sufficient for full lock (away) and full suspension extension. Ensure too much hose isn't pulled through or it will rub on the wheel. Now cable tie around the pipe to hold it tight and prevent it gradually sliding through the middle union.
# Check all the unions are tight then bleed the brakes.
[[Image:Hub_caliper_mount.jpg]] [[Image:Darren_brakes.jpg]]‎

'''Brake bleeding:'''
Bleeding is very easy with the Wilwoods, especially if you have only replaced the front brakes and not disturbed the rear system. There is a plethora of brake-bleeding advice on LEC for difficult cases, so this addresses the simple case only.
# You will need a 1/4” ring spanner suitable for the tiny bleed screws.
# Fill the reservoir, then bleed using your preferred method starting from the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder. (I replaced all the fluid at this time, so bled the rear brakes also.)
# I used a pressure bleeder and bled each of the four nipples on each caliper, upper ones last. However note that some of the Wilwood calipers have a tag attached which reads “For proper bleeding, bleed screws must be pointing up”, and the Rally Design website for the Dynalite 4-Pot caliper says “caliper is to be bled by releasing the top two bleed nipples only” (this is a slightly different caliper but the principle should be the same). [http://rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=562_588&products_id=8305 Rally Design].
# I'm surprised that there's no rubber dust/crap covers supplied for the nipples, so it may be an idea to buy some.

'''Important Checks (before driving the car):'''
# After bleeding, press the brake pedal a few times to ensure it’s firm then check for any leaks of hydraulic fluid. I don’t mean puddles on the floor – I mean while the wheels are off looking for any weeping of fluid.
# Put the wheels on and test-spin the wheel after you've assembled it all to make sure nothing rubs. If it does, adjust the hoses, “L-bend” union and tie-wraps.
# Then jack the car down and drive a few feet in a quiet place with the hood down to ensure you can hear if anything's rubbing with the suspension under load. Don't drive more than a few feet if you hear a rubbing noise. Fix the clearance and test again.
# If you're happy nothing's rubbing, go for a quick spin, then come back, remove the wheels and check the braided hoses again for any wear to ensure there's nothing been rubbing on them. Note that several people have experienced damage to their nice new brake hoses owing to maladjustment. '''''If the brake hoses rub through, this will cause brake failure. Do the checks.'''''

'''Bedding the brakes:'''

See the Wilwood website 'bedding' article at http://brakepads.wilwood.com/03-tech/index.html .

'''Fitment Comments:'''
# Be very careful when routing the new braided hoses, making sure they do not rub on anything, especially anything which rotates. I found it best to have the loop in the hose angled back towards the wishbone, thus giving maximum clearance to the wheel.
# Even after thorough bleeding, the brakes do not give full “feel” through the pedal until after the bedding-in procedure, and may take ten miles or so of driving to firm-up the pedal and achieve their ultimate state.
# The brakes buzz a bit on medium to heavy braking (maybe the pads resonating), but its not a problem and just sounds like the brakes biting and doing their job.
# Some people have reported a slight creaking sound if the brake pedal is pressed hard when stationary with the engine off in a quiet spot (not heard at any other time). It’s not known what it is, but it doesn't affect the stopping power. Note that this is not the clicking sound mentioned under “maintenance” below.
# see here http://brakepads.wilwood.com/01-selection/index.html for friction material applicable to both the Powerlite 1.38" 4-pots used in the ESM/BrianMDB 15" kit and the Dynalite 4-pot calipers used in their 16" kit. (I think most people went for the 'Smartpads' at about £20 a set from Rally Design http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/catalog/index.php?cPath=562_792 ; just to be different Monty has 'Poly-Q' and seems to like them. Friction vs temperature graphs can be found here http://brakepads.wilwood.com/01-selection/index.html .

'''Maintenance:'''
# The 15” Wilwood set-up uses calipers without dust-seals. This means that care has to be taken to clean the pistons before pressing them back into the caliper, e.g. when replacing pads.
# A healthy amount of copper slip around the pistons makes a decent surrogate for dust seals and should mitigate the piston slip-sticking problem described below. Just slop a load on the back of the pads at every service (that generally happens anyway to some extent to stop squeal) and once the pistons are protruding a reasonable amount actively coat them with it. Its remarkably tenacious.
# A clicking noise from the Wilwoods has been reported after a couple of winters’ use, which is due to slip-stick of one or more pistons (moving in steps instead of smoothly and bashing the back of the pads when they unstick and move - hence the noise). The solution is cleaning the pistons, as below. The noise becomes noticeable on brake application when stationary or very low speeds and is completely unnoticeable on the move at any significant speed, and brake performance remains good.
# ESM’s recommended clean-up method is to unbolt the caliper, stick a bit of wood in-between the pots so they don't come all the way out and pump the brake pedal until all the pistons move out far enough to show clean metal (it is obvious which ones are sticky as they come out after the free ones hit the wood). Then use brake cleaner and metal polish to clean the crud off. Its difficult where the clearances are small to the caliper body but a 'flossing' with a cloth and using a plastic glue mixer as a scraper works (don't use anything that will score the piston). Then spray the piston lightly with WD40, lever them back in with the bit of wood and re-assemble. The clicking noise will now be gone completely. Allow about 45 minutes a side (you probably won't need that long though). If you have let it go such that pitting/corrosion is a problem, replacement pistons are listed at about £6.50 each on Rally Design.
# When renewing discs, remember to re-lacquer/paint between the aluminium hats and iron discs to prevent pitting on the face of the aluminium hat where it mates with the disc, owing to galvanic corrosion.
# If you get your wheels balanced, recheck for adequate clearance of the hoses. The plastic sheathing of one of my hoses was nicked by wheel balance weights.

----

=== Highspec ===
see Philbo

----

=== Brembo ===
see LGM

----

== REARS ==

=== Darrens ===
[http://www.lotuselancentral.com/lec/GMRearCaliper.pdf Darren's solution]

=== Dorman ===

see Algirdas

[[Category:Incomplete]][[Category:Brakes]]