WikiLEC - User contributions [en]

Isuzu Impulse 90-92 Engine Parts Catalogue

2012-01-09T08:36:16Z

Saska:

The M100 uses an Isuzu 4XE1 1.6l engine modified by Lotus. The Isuzu Impulse XS used the normally aspirated (N/A) version of the 4XE1. The Impulse RS used the turbocharged version of the 4XE1 which was designated 4EX1-WT (With Turbo). Lotus modified both engines: the M100 N/A was designated 4XE1-M and the M100 Turbo designated the 4XE1-MT.
Doc Fizzix took apart an Isuzu Impulse 4XE1-WT engine and compared the parts to an M100 4EX1-MT engine in [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=5564&hilit=4XE1 this LEC post].
Some major differences are:
# 4XE1-M engines (M100) used hydraulic valve lifters
# The oil check valve and relief valves in the head are different to supply oil to the hydraulic lifters.
# The lower intake (injector housing) manifold is different
# The engine oil filter adapter (The Impulse used a remote filter) is different.

The Isuzu 90-92 Engine, Emissions, Engine Electrical Parts catalogue was found by [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=309 Wayne] [http://www.catcar.info/isuzu/?st=40&l=bT09dXNhfHxjYz09Skl8fHNuPT0wfHxhbXNpZD09NHx8Zm49PTcxfHxuaT09MDE%3D HERE]. This catalogue is not available in some parts of the world so [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=2586 Inkitin] has converted it to a PDF file, given some helpful instructions on how to read the data and also ensured that the text information is fully searchable.
Please read the first page carefully. The catalogue also includes pictures and part numbers for the 4XF1 1.8L engine which did use hydraulic lifters and there is some mention in Doc Fizzix' thread that the 92 Geo-Storm GSi 1.8l 4XF1 head is identical to that used in the M100 but this is unconfirmed.

Download: [http://kact.co.uk/lec/Isuzu_Impulse_90-92_Engine_Emission_Electrical_Parts_Catalogue.pdf Isuzu Impulse 90-92 Engine, Emissions, Engine Electrical Parts Catalogue] pdf format, 6.0Mb
[[Category:Engine]]

Isuzu Impulse 90-92 Engine Parts Catalogue

2012-01-09T08:27:21Z

Saska:

The M100 uses an Isuzu 4XE1 engine modified by Lotus. The Isuzu Impulse XS used the normally aspirated (N/A) version of the 4XE1. The Impulse RS used the turbocharged version of the 4XE1 which was designated 4EX1-WT (With Turbo). Lotus modified both engines: the M100 N/A was designated 4XE1-M and the M100 Turbo designated the 4XE1-MT.
Doc Fizzix took apart an Isuzu Impulse 4XE1-WT engine and compared the parts to an M100 4EX1-MT engine in [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=5564&hilit=4XE1 this LEC post].
Some major differences are:
# 4XE1-M engines (M100) used hydraulic valve lifters
# The oil check valve and relief valves in the head are different to supply oil to the hydraulic lifters.
# The lower intake (injector housing) manifold is different
# The engine oil filter adapter (The Impulse used a remote filter) are different.

The Isuzu 90-92 Engine, Emissions, Engine Electrical Parts catalogue was found by [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=309 Wayne] [http://www.catcar.info/isuzu/?st=40&l=bT09dXNhfHxjYz09Skl8fHNuPT0wfHxhbXNpZD09NHx8Zm49PTcxfHxuaT09MDE%3D HERE]. This catalogue is not available in some parts of the world so [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=2586 Inkitin] has converted it to a PDF file, given some helpful instructions on how to read the data and also ensured that the text information is fully searchable.
Please read the first page carefully. The catalogue also includes pictures and part numbers for the 4XF1 1.8L engine which did use hydraulic lifters and there is some mention in Doc Fizzix' thread that the 92 Geo-Storm GSi 1.8l 4XF1 head is identical to that used in the M100 but this is unconfirmed.

Download: [http://kact.co.uk/lec/Isuzu_Impulse_90-92_Engine_Emission_Electrical_Parts_Catalogue.pdf Isuzu Impulse 90-92 Engine, Emissions, Engine Electrical Parts Catalogue] pdf format, 6.0Mb
[[Category:Engine]]

Isuzu Impulse 90-92 Engine Parts Catalogue

2012-01-09T08:25:38Z

Saska:

The M100 uses an Isuzu 4XE1 engine modified by Lotus. The Isuzu Impulse XS used the normally aspirated (N/A) version of the 4XE1. The Impulse RS used the turbocharged version of the 4XE1 which was designated 4EX1-WT (With Turbo). Lotus modified both engines: the M100 N/A was designated 4XE1-M and the M100 Turbo designated the 4XE1-MT.
Doc Fizzix took apart an Isuzu Impulse 4XE1-WT engine and compared the parts to an M100 4EX1-MT engine in [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=5564&hilit=4XE1 this LEC post].
Some major differences are:
# 4XE1-M engines (M100) used hydraulic valve lifters
# The oil check valve and relief valves in the head are different to supply oil to the hydraulic lifters.
# The lower intake (injector housing) manifold is different
# The engine oil filter adapter (The Impulse used a remote filter) are different.

The Isuzu 90-92 Engine, Emissions, Engine Electrical Parts catalogue was found by [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=309 Wayne] [http://www.catcar.info/isuzu/?st=40&l=bT09dXNhfHxjYz09Skl8fHNuPT0wfHxhbXNpZD09NHx8Zm49PTcxfHxuaT09MDE%3D HERE]. This catalogue is not available in some parts of the world so [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=2586 Inkitin] has converted it to a PDF file, given some helpful instructions on how to read the data and also ensured that the text information is fully searchable.
Please read the first page carefully. The catalogue also includes pictures and part numbers for the 4XF1 1.8L engine which did use hydraulic lifters and there is some mention in Doc Fizzix' thread that the 92 Geo-Storm 4XF1 head is identical to that used in the M100 but this is unconfirmed.

Download: [http://kact.co.uk/lec/Isuzu_Impulse_90-92_Engine_Emission_Electrical_Parts_Catalogue.pdf Isuzu Impulse 90-92 Engine, Emissions, Engine Electrical Parts Catalogue] pdf format, 6.0Mb
[[Category:Engine]]

Isuzu Impulse 90-92 Engine Parts Catalogue

2012-01-08T20:11:07Z

Saska:

The M100 uses an Isuzu 4XE1 engine modified by Lotus. The Isuzu Impulse XS used the normally aspirated (N/A) version of the 4XE1. The Impulse RS used the turbocharged version of the 4XE1 which was designated 4EX1-WT (With Turbo). Lotus modified both engines: the M100 N/A was designated 4XE1-M and the M100 Turbo designated the 4XE1-MT.
Doc Fizzix took apart an Isuzu Impulse 4XE1-WT engine and compared the parts to an M100 4EX1-MT engine in [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=5564&hilit=4XE1 this LEC post].
Some major differences are:
# 4XE1-M engines (M100) used hydraulic valve lifters
# The oil check valve and relief valves in the head are different to supply oil to the hydraulic lifters.
# The lower intake (injector housing) manifold is different
# The engine oil filter adapter (The Impulse used a remote filter) are different.

The Isuzu 90-92 Engine, Emissions, Engine Electrical Parts catalogue was found by [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=309 Wayne] [http://www.catcar.info/isuzu/?st=40&l=bT09dXNhfHxjYz09Skl8fHNuPT0wfHxhbXNpZD09NHx8Zm49PTcxfHxuaT09MDE%3D HERE]. This catalogue is not available in some parts of the world so [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=2586 Inkitin] has converted it to a PDF file, given some helpful instructions on how to read the data and also ensured that the text information is fully searchable.
Please read the first page carefully. The catalogue also includes pictures and part numbers for the 4XF1 1.8L engine which did use hydraulic lifters and there is some mention in Doc Fizzix' thread that the 92 Geo-Storm 4XF1 head is identical to that used in the M100 but this is unconfirmed.

Download: [http://kact.co.uk/lec/Isuzu_Impulse_90-92_Engine_Emission_Electrical_Parts_Catalogue.pdf Isuzu Impulse 90-92 Engine, Emissions, Engine Electrical Parts Catalogue] pdf format, 5.6Mb
[[Category:Engine]]

Isuzu Impulse 90-92 Engine Parts Catalogue

2012-01-08T20:01:14Z

Saska:

The M100 uses an Isuzu 4XE1 engine modified by Lotus. The Isuzu Impulse XS used the normally aspirated (N/A) version of the 4XE1. The Impulse RS used the turbocharged version of the 4XE1 which was designated 4EX1-WT (With Turbo). Lotus modified both engines: the M100 N/A was designated 4XE1-M and the M100 Turbo designated the 4XE1-MT.
Doc Fizzix took apart an Isuzu Impulse 4XE1-WT engine and compared the parts to an M100 4EX1-MT engine in [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=5564&hilit=4XE1 this LEC post].
Some major differences are:
# 4XE1-M engines (M100) used hydraulic valve lifters
# The oil check valve and relief valves in the head are different to supply oil to the hydraulic lifters.
# The lower intake (injector housing) manifold is different
# The engine oil filter adapter (The Impulse used a remote filter) are different.

The Isuzu 90-92 Engine, Emissions, Engine Electrical Parts catalogue was found by [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=309 Wayne] [http://www.catcar.info/isuzu/?st=40&l=bT09dXNhfHxjYz09Skl8fHNuPT0wfHxhbXNpZD09NHx8Zm49PTcxfHxuaT09MDE%3D HERE]. This catalogue is not available in some parts of the world so [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=2586 Inkitin] has converted it to a PDF file, given some helpful instructions on how to read the data and also ensured that the text information is fully searchable.
Please read the first page carefully. The catalogue also includes pictures and part numbers for the 4XF1 1.8L engine which did use hydraulic lifters and there is some mention in Doc Fizzix' thread that the 92 Geo-Storm 4XF1 head is identical to that used in the M100 but this is unconfirmed.

Download: [http://kact.co.uk/lec/Isuzu_Impulse_90%20-%2092_Engine_Emission_Electrical_Parts_Catalogue.pdf Isuzu Impulse 90-92 Engine, Emissions, Engine Electrical Parts Catalogue] pdf format, 5.6Mb
[[Category:Engine]]

Isuzu Impulse 90-92 Engine Parts Catalogue

2012-01-08T20:00:46Z

Saska:

The M100 uses an Isuzu 4XE1 engine modified by Lotus. The Isuzu Impulse XS used the normally aspirated (N/A) version of the 4XE1. The Impulse RS used the turbocharged version of the 4XE1 which was designated 4EX1-WT (With Turbo). Lotus modified both engines: the M100 N/A was designated 4XE1-M and the M100 Turbo designated the 4XE1-MT.
Doc Fizzix took apart an Isuzu Impulse 4XE1-WT engine and compared the parts to an M100 4EX1-MT engine in [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=5564&hilit=4XE1 this LEC post].
Some major differences are:
# 4XE1-M engines (M100) used hydraulic valve lifters
# The oil check valve and relief valves in the head are different to supply oil to the hydraulic lifters.
# The lower intake (injector housing) manifold is different
# The engine oil filter adapter (The Impulse used a remote filter) are different.

The Isuzu 90-92 Engine, Emissions, Engine Electrical Parts catalogue was found by [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=309 Wayne] [http://www.catcar.info/isuzu/?st=40&l=bT09dXNhfHxjYz09Skl8fHNuPT0wfHxhbXNpZD09NHx8Zm49PTcxfHxuaT09MDE%3D HERE]. This catalogue is not available in some parts of the world so [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=2586 Inkitin] has converted it to a PDF file, given some helpful instructions on how to read the data and also ensured that the text information is fully searchable.
Please read the first page carefully. The catalogue also includes pictures and part numbers for the 4XF1 1.8L engine which did use hydraulic lifters and there is some mention in Doc Fizzix' thread that the 92 Geo-Storm 4XF1 head is identical to that used in the M100 but this is unconfirmed.

Download: [http://kact.co.uk/lec/Isuzu_Impulse_90%20-%2092_Engine_Emission_Electrical_Parts_Catalogue.pdf Isuzu Impulse 90-92 Engine, Emissions, Engine Electrical Parts Catalogue] pdf format, 5.6Mb
[[Category:Engine]]
--[[User:Saska|Saska]] 20:00, 8 January 2012 (UTC)

Isuzu Impulse 90-92 Engine Parts Catalogue

2012-01-08T19:57:33Z

Saska:

The M100 uses an Isuzu 4XE1 engine modified by Lotus. The Isuzu Impulse XS used the normally aspirated (N/A) version of the 4XE1. The Impulse RS used the turbocharged version of the 4XE1 which was designated 4EX1-WT (With Turbo). Lotus modified both engines: the M100 N/A was designated 4XE1-M and the M100 Turbo designated the 4XE1-MT.
Doc Fizzix took apart an Isuzu Impulse 4XE1-WT engine and compared the parts to an M100 4EX1-MT engine in [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=5564&hilit=4XE1 this LEC post].
Some major differences are:
# 4XE1-M engines (M100) used hydraulic valve lifters
# The oil check valve and relief valves in the head are different to supply oil to the hydraulic lifters.
# The lower intake (injector housing) manifold is different
# The engine oil filter adapter (The Impulse used a remote filter) are different.

The Isuzu 90-92 Engine, Emissions, Engine Electrical Parts catalogue was found by [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=309 Wayne] [http://www.catcar.info/isuzu/?st=40&l=bT09dXNhfHxjYz09Skl8fHNuPT0wfHxhbXNpZD09NHx8Zm49PTcxfHxuaT09MDE%3D HERE]. This catalogue is not available in some parts of the world so [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=2586 Inkitin] has converted it to a PDF file, given some helpful instructions on how to read the data and also ensured that the text information is fully searchable.
Please read the first page carefully. The catalogue also includes pictures and part numbers for the 4XF1 1.8L engine which did use hydraulic lifters and there is some mention in Doc Fizzix' thread that the 92 Geo-Storm 4XF1 head is identical to that used in the M100 but this is unconfirmed.

Download: [http://kact.co.uk/lec/Isuzu_Impulse_90%20-%2092_Engine_Emission_Electrical_Parts_Catalogue.pdf Isuzu Impulse 90-92 Engine, Emissions, Engine Electrical Parts Catalogue] pdf format, 5.6Mb
[[Category:Engine]]

Isuzu Impulse 90-92 Engine Parts Catalogue

2012-01-08T19:41:59Z

Saska: New page: The M100 uses an Isuzu 4XE1 engine modified by Lotus. The Isuzu Impulse XS used the normally aspirated (N/A) version of the 4XE1. The Impulse RS used the turbocharged version of the 4XE1 w...

The M100 uses an Isuzu 4XE1 engine modified by Lotus. The Isuzu Impulse XS used the normally aspirated (N/A) version of the 4XE1. The Impulse RS used the turbocharged version of the 4XE1 which was designated 4EX1-WT (With Turbo). Lotus modified both engines: the M100 N/A was designated 4XE1-M and the M100 Turbo designated the 4XE1-MT.
Doc Fizzix took apart an Isuzu Impulse 4XE1-WT engine and compared the parts to an M100 4EX1-MT engine in [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=80&t=5564&hilit=4XE1 this LEC post].
Some major differences are:
# 4XE1-M engines (M100) used hydraulic valve lifters
# The oil check valve and relief valves in the head are different to supply oil to the hydraulic lifters.
# The lower intake (injector housing) manifold is different
# The engine oil filter adapter (The Impulse used a remote filter) are different.

The Isuzu 90-92 Engine, Emissions, Engine Electrical Parts catalogue was found by [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=309 Wayne] [http://www.catcar.info/isuzu/?st=40&l=bT09dXNhfHxjYz09Skl8fHNuPT0wfHxhbXNpZD09NHx8Zm49PTcxfHxuaT09MDE%3D HERE]. This catalogue is not available in some parts of the world so [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=2586 Inkitin] has converted it to a PDF file, given some helpful instructions on how to read the data and also ensured that the text information is fully searchable.
Please read the first page carefully. The catalogue also includes pictures and part numbers for the 4XF1 1.8L engine which did use hydraulic lifters and there is some mention in Doc Fizzix' thread that the 92 Geo-Storm 4XF1 head is identical to that used in the M100 but this is unconfirmed.

Download: [http://kact.co.uk/lec/Isuzu_Impulse_90%20-%2092_Engine_Emission_Electrical_Parts_Catalogue.pdf Isuzu Impulse 90-92 Engine, Emissions, Engine Electrical Parts Catalogue] pdf format, 5.6Mb

Bottom (crank) pulley removal

2011-05-06T19:06:36Z

Saska:

'''''Please read in conjunction with Lotus Service Manuals'''''
----

== dapinky methods ==

Not only does this have to be removed to change the timing belt anyway, but it will make life a lot easier to remove it in order to remove the right-hand engine mounting, which needs to come off to get to the cam-belt cover to gain access to the water pump!!!

The single bolt is tightened to 170Nm / 125 ft.lbs.f

The manual simply gives it one sentence “Remove the crank pulley bolt” but it isn’t that easy!

Without going into a tale of woe, here are a few options to try –
----
'''1. Air impact wrench'''

Put the car in 5th gear, chock the wheels, handbrake on. Jack the front of the car up and place on firm axle stands using the correct [[Jacking Points]]. Take the front right-hand wheel off, use a 17mm impact socket on the bolt and an air impact wrench on maximum torque. (Only works with a good compressor / air wrench!). Do not use an 11/16” AF socket – it is half a mil too big and may shatter.

Lots of bars and plenty of leverage…….
----
'''2. Willing assistant'''

Put the car in 5th gear, chock the wheels, handbrake on. If you have an assistant handy, then removal of the front O/S (right-hand) wheel (car on FIRM axle stand using the correct [[Jacking Points]]) would give better 'straight' access to the bolt. Get the assistant to apply pressure to the brakes from the driver’s seat whilst applying force.
----
'''3. Billy no-mates'''

Keep all wheels on the ground, handbrake on, chock the wheels, car in 5th gear.

There is just enough clearance in front of the tyre to get a socket, 5” bar, 10” bar, another 5” bar & swivel wrench on the bolt and apply some pressure. Use the old proverb “Don’t force it, use a bigger hammer!” I used a 5’ scaffold bar for leverage on the breaker bar.

With the extra leverage it won’t take much to twist all of the extension bars, causing one of them to snap (poor quality tools = grief). Only use good quality tools with high force loading, and DO NOT be tempted to use a ratchet wrench (it will break!) or a Torque wrench (it will take it out of accurate use for the future).
----
'''4. Friendly garage'''

Overall, I think that car on a 4-post lift, all wheels on the ground (ramp!), assistant on the brakes and a scaff bar for leverage from underneath would be the best bet.
That way there would be no need for any extension bars, just a 17mm impact socket and a good breaker bar.
With that much torque on lots of extension bars, they're almost bound to twist and make the job harder (as I proved).

Unfortunately, this wasn't an option on the driveway - should I ever need to do it again, I think that I'll use the ramp at my local friendly garage to at least 'crack off' the load.
----

'''5. If the engine is in a stand'''

If your engine is in a stand the chances are that the gearbox and fly wheel are removed.

Where the attaching bolts locate for the fly wheel, refit two of the eight bolts (opposite each other). Place a 19mm ring spanner over one of the bolts and it should react against the other bolt, at the same time it should contact the mounting frame. This will now lock the pulley.

Undo the pulley bolt as normal.

Once the bolt is out, remove the crank pulley - I needed to put a 3-leg puller on mine to get it off, it was quite a tight fit! – Do not force it with a hammer/mallet etc from behind as it may crack, warp etc, causing the engine to run ‘out of balance’ upon re-assembly.

Once the bottom pulley is off, it gives plenty of access from underneath to get to all 4 bolts on the Right Hand engine mounting bracket.

--------------------------------
'''saska's Alternative Method''' 
This is adapted from the method suggested in Aamir BT's Isuzone write up on how to change the cambelt, tensioner, idler, water pump, crankshaft seal and camshaft seals. you can get the full article at http://www.kact.co.uk/lec/replacing_timing_belt.pdf
The basic method relies upon the starter motor having a lot of torque via the flywheel. Put a good quality 17mm socket on the cranshaft bolt, rotate the engine until the handle faces forwards and down towards the large hole in the plastic under tray under the front bumper. Fit a strong bar/breaker bar to the socket so the handle goes through the hole in the undertray. Then fit a length of strong scaffold pole or whatever to extend to the ground in front of the engine. Ensure the car is in neutral, rear wheels chocked and hand brake on. I pulled the spark plug leads so the engine can't start. Then just turn the key to hit the starter briefly (1 second), just enough to spin the engine a bit. Mine made a ping noise when it cracked the tension on the bolt. After that the bolt should be cracked loose and you can easily remove it with your hand. Note: it is essential the bar is going toward the front of the car. Photo is [http://wikilec.9600.org/images/1/13/1020280.jpg HERE]

[[Category:HowTo]]

Bottom (crank) pulley removal

2011-05-06T19:04:34Z

Saska:

'''''Please read in conjunction with Lotus Service Manuals'''''
----

== dapinky methods ==

Not only does this have to be removed to change the timing belt anyway, but it will make life a lot easier to remove it in order to remove the right-hand engine mounting, which needs to come off to get to the cam-belt cover to gain access to the water pump!!!

The single bolt is tightened to 170Nm / 125 ft.lbs.f

The manual simply gives it one sentence “Remove the crank pulley bolt” but it isn’t that easy!

Without going into a tale of woe, here are a few options to try –
----
'''1. Air impact wrench'''

Put the car in 5th gear, chock the wheels, handbrake on. Jack the front of the car up and place on firm axle stands using the correct [[Jacking Points]]. Take the front right-hand wheel off, use a 17mm impact socket on the bolt and an air impact wrench on maximum torque. (Only works with a good compressor / air wrench!). Do not use an 11/16” AF socket – it is half a mil too big and may shatter.

Lots of bars and plenty of leverage…….
----
'''2. Willing assistant'''

Put the car in 5th gear, chock the wheels, handbrake on. If you have an assistant handy, then removal of the front O/S (right-hand) wheel (car on FIRM axle stand using the correct [[Jacking Points]]) would give better 'straight' access to the bolt. Get the assistant to apply pressure to the brakes from the driver’s seat whilst applying force.
----
'''3. Billy no-mates'''

Keep all wheels on the ground, handbrake on, chock the wheels, car in 5th gear.

There is just enough clearance in front of the tyre to get a socket, 5” bar, 10” bar, another 5” bar & swivel wrench on the bolt and apply some pressure. Use the old proverb “Don’t force it, use a bigger hammer!” I used a 5’ scaffold bar for leverage on the breaker bar.

With the extra leverage it won’t take much to twist all of the extension bars, causing one of them to snap (poor quality tools = grief). Only use good quality tools with high force loading, and DO NOT be tempted to use a ratchet wrench (it will break!) or a Torque wrench (it will take it out of accurate use for the future).
----
'''4. Friendly garage'''

Overall, I think that car on a 4-post lift, all wheels on the ground (ramp!), assistant on the brakes and a scaff bar for leverage from underneath would be the best bet.
That way there would be no need for any extension bars, just a 17mm impact socket and a good breaker bar.
With that much torque on lots of extension bars, they're almost bound to twist and make the job harder (as I proved).

Unfortunately, this wasn't an option on the driveway - should I ever need to do it again, I think that I'll use the ramp at my local friendly garage to at least 'crack off' the load.
----

'''5. If the engine is in a stand'''

If your engine is in a stand the chances are that the gearbox and fly wheel are removed.

Where the attaching bolts locate for the fly wheel, refit two of the eight bolts (opposite each other). Place a 19mm ring spanner over one of the bolts and it should react against the other bolt, at the same time it should contact the mounting frame. This will now lock the pulley.

Undo the pulley bolt as normal.

Once the bolt is out, remove the crank pulley - I needed to put a 3-leg puller on mine to get it off, it was quite a tight fit! – Do not force it with a hammer/mallet etc from behind as it may crack, warp etc, causing the engine to run ‘out of balance’ upon re-assembly.

Once the bottom pulley is off, it gives plenty of access from underneath to get to all 4 bolts on the Right Hand engine mounting bracket.

--------------------------------
'''Alternative Method''' 
This is adapted from the method suggested in Aamir BT's Isuzone write up on how to change the cambelt, tensioner, idler, water pump, crankshaft seal and camshaft seals. you can get the full article at http://www.kact.co.uk/lec/replacing_timing_belt.pdf
The basic method relies upon the starter motor having a lot of torque via the flywheel. Put a good quality 17mm socket on the cranshaft bolt, rotate the engine until the handle faces forwards and down towards the large hole in the plastic under tray under the front bumper. Fit a strong bar/breaker bar to the socket so the handle goes through the hole in the undertray. Then fit a length of strong scaffold pole or whatever to extend to the ground in front of the engine. Ensure the car is in neutral, rear wheels chocked and hand brake on. I pulled the spark plug leads so the engine can't start. Then just turn the key to hit the starter briefly (1 second), just enough to spin the engine a bit. Mine made a ping noise when it cracked the tension on the bolt. After that the bolt should be cracked loose and you can easily remove it with your hand. Note: it is essential the bar is going toward the front of the car. Photo is [http://wikilec.9600.org/images/1/13/1020280.jpg HERE]

[[Category:HowTo]]

File:1020280.jpg

2011-05-06T18:55:47Z

Saska: Releasing crankshaft nut using the starter.

Releasing crankshaft nut using the starter.

Cambelt-change

2011-04-16T09:55:45Z

Saska:

{{note|text=Original write-up by [mailto:elan@f2s.net Pantz], located here: http://www.rupertbear.f2s.com/LOTUS_ELAN_SE_TURBO/lotus_elan_cambelt_change.htm
Permission sought from the original author to duplicate this content here, but no response received. If you are the original author and you'd like this text removed, please email one of the admins or pop by http://lotuselancentral.com and let us know.
}}

Hi there.

So you're brave enough to attempt to change your Elan M100 cambelt. It's quite a frustrating job. The hardest bit for me was working out how to undo the bottom pulley nut. You either need to jam the fly wheel or jam the pulley itself. There probably are other ways of getting around this , but I opted for a straight-forward option and made this tool to lock the pulley.

[[Image:CambeltPulleyTool.jpg|Cambelt Pulley Tool|thumbnail]]

Once I had loosened the nut, the job took about 4 to 5 hours. When I was getting frustrated with it I just grabbed a coffee and surfed the net.

Treat this as a guide and read pages EC 16 to 19 of the Elan Workshop manual. I aim to improve this write up with input from others. The actual fitting of the belt is straightforward, it's the limited access that is the problem. If I managed the job then I am quite sure you can too.

=Tools you'll need=

I am waiting for input here. As I completed this job over a year ago, I am waiting for someone to remind me of all the socket and spanner sizes.

If you already have:

* Metric socket set
* Metric spanner set.
* Metric allen key set.
* Metric spline set.
* 1 x Standard Lotus jack
* 1 x Trolley Jack
* Massive Swear Box...

You will have sufficient tools to complete the job.

=Removing the cambelt =

If you have not done this job before on this car allow all day and be pleased with yourself if you do it quicker because, after all, there's no hurry and you're going to be saving a lot of money.

I used the standard jack on the jacking point, and a small trolley jack under the engine.

# Loosen Right hand front wheel nuts.
## Position both jacks.
## Remove Wheel.
# Remove bottom pulley: 17mm socket you need to jam the pulley or the fly wheel to undo this nut (if you can't undo this nut ''don't'' go any further!). Lotus recommend setting the TDC before taking the pulley off. I did this slightly differently because you are better off making sure you can get the pulley off before dismantling all of the engine mount/belts/camcovers because you would be quite sick if you spent a couple of hours undoing everything to find you cannot undo the bottom pulley nut !
# Loosen Alternator belt and PAS belt tensioners
## Remove these two belts.
# Take weight of engine with trolley jack (I used rubber mat on jack so not to damage sump). '''You shouldn't really jack the car up like this because you can warp the sump''', but as it was only taking the engine weight I went ahead as I couldn't see anywhere else to stick the jack)
# Remove Right hand engine mount.
## Remove the bolt securing the engine bracket to the right hand engine mounting rubber.
## Remove the four bolts securing this to the engine.
# Remove all Bolts on the cambelt covers
# Make sure the engine is set at TDC. That is the two marks on the top pulleys facing each other. Use the long bolts from the cam cover to lock the two top pulleys. Don't worry if the engine is not at TDC. Just pop the bottom pulley on and rotate the engine this way. Don't be tempted to turn it by using the top pulley bolts.With the top pulleys locked you cannot make any mistakes and put all of the timing out.
# [[Image:ElanCambeltAnnot.jpg|Elan Cambelt|thumbnail]] This photograph shows:
## Cambelt direction
## TDC (two red dots facing each other)
## How to lock the top pulleys in a safe position
## How the cambelt tension should be adjusted
# Remove the cambelt, use a spline socket wrench to loosen the tensioner pulley clamp bolt and an allen key to hold the hub, and rotate the pulley clockwise to slacken the belt. Slide the belt off the pulleys.

'''IF YOU'VE GOT THIS FAR YOU'RE HALFWAY THERE. AND WILL BE FULLY CAPABLE OF FINISHING THE JOB !'''

=Now for some more fun: let's put it all back together again.=
{{warning|text='''WARNINGS FROM THE LOTUS MANUAL'''

* Don't pry or stretch the belt with a screwdriver or any other tool.
* Don't force the belt to bend or twist excessively or damage may be caused to the belt core.
* Don't get oil or any other chemicals on the belt.
* Store cam-belt in a cool place. Don't expose to heat or direct sunlight. (I suppose the engine's a cool place to store it)
* Don't rotate the crankshaft or the camshafts with the belt removed or damage may be caused to the valves and pistons
}}

==Installing the new belt==
[[Image:CambeltRouting.jpg|thumbnail|Here's a picture of the all the pulleys and the routing of the belt.]]

# Make sure the belt is the right direction.
# Slide the belt over the pulleys as shown in diagram. I started from the top and worked the slack downwards. Centralise the belt on all the pulleys.
# Tension the belt (roughly at this stage). Check that the timing marks are still aligned (making sure you haven't disturbed these during belt fitting. Then turn the engine two revolutions in the normal direction to settle the belt. (remember to take the two locking bolts out)
# Tension the belt. Lotus recommend tensioning the belt at 60Degrees ATDC(''A''fter ''T''op ''D''ead ''C''entre) this made no sense to me..
# There is a hexagonal socket so you can tension the new belt using an allen key, turn anti-clockwise to tension. The socket is also used to hold the hub from turning while the clamp bolt is tightened. The belt tension should be measured at the position shown on the picture using a firm finger pressure and to the tension shown.
# Then, in classic Haynes style, everything goes back together reverse order

==Notes from Geoff==

'''Please read in conjunction with Lotus Service Manuals'''''
----
[[Bottom_(crank)_pulley_removal|Remove the bottom pulley]]

[[Engine_mount_removal_(O/S)|Remove the offside engine mount]]

You can now get to the plastic cam belt cover and remove all of the bolts (10mm head) from it, lifting it away to gain access to the bits inside!

The tensioner and water pump bolts were all easy to get at and undo (might be a bit harder with the head still on, though, but quite possible). The only tight one was the idler pulley which is on the head, so at least it is easier to reach.

Remember to clean the face where the water pump joins the block with emery cloth to ensure a good joint, use a new gasket and tighten all 5 bolts (12mm head) evenly to keep the pump ‘flat’ to the block.

When replacing the tensioner, the spring has to go the right way round, and can be a bit fiddly – perseverance from underneath was the way I got it done, but with flexible, thin fingers, it should be possible from above.

With the new timing belt fitted, tension the belt from underneath using a 10mm spanner and a 5mm allen key to get the tension correct (as per the manual). Then replace the plastic cover – it is easier than tensioning it through the hole in the cover (with the rubber bung).

==Additional Reference==
There is a very complete write up with lots of photos of cambelt change, replacing camshaft and crankshaft seals, replacing water pump, cambelt idler and tensioner. It was done by Aamir BT of Isuzone and there is a copy at http://www.kact.co.uk/lec/replacing_timing_belt.pdf
[[Category:Incomplete]]
[[Category:HowTo]]

Cambelt-change

2011-04-16T09:51:53Z

Saska:

{{note|text=Original write-up by [mailto:elan@f2s.net Pantz], located here: http://www.rupertbear.f2s.com/LOTUS_ELAN_SE_TURBO/lotus_elan_cambelt_change.htm
Permission sought from the original author to duplicate this content here, but no response received. If you are the original author and you'd like this text removed, please email one of the admins or pop by http://lotuselancentral.com and let us know.
}}

Hi there.

So you're brave enough to attempt to change your Elan M100 cambelt. It's quite a frustrating job. The hardest bit for me was working out how to undo the bottom pulley nut. You either need to jam the fly wheel or jam the pulley itself. There probably are other ways of getting around this , but I opted for a straight-forward option and made this tool to lock the pulley.

[[Image:CambeltPulleyTool.jpg|Cambelt Pulley Tool|thumbnail]]

Once I had loosened the nut, the job took about 4 to 5 hours. When I was getting frustrated with it I just grabbed a coffee and surfed the net.

Treat this as a guide and read pages EC 16 to 19 of the Elan Workshop manual. I aim to improve this write up with input from others. The actual fitting of the belt is straightforward, it's the limited access that is the problem. If I managed the job then I am quite sure you can too.

=Tools you'll need=

I am waiting for input here. As I completed this job over a year ago, I am waiting for someone to remind me of all the socket and spanner sizes.

If you already have:

* Metric socket set
* Metric spanner set.
* Metric allen key set.
* Metric spline set.
* 1 x Standard Lotus jack
* 1 x Trolley Jack
* Massive Swear Box...

You will have sufficient tools to complete the job.

=Removing the cambelt =

If you have not done this job before on this car allow all day and be pleased with yourself if you do it quicker because, after all, there's no hurry and you're going to be saving a lot of money.

I used the standard jack on the jacking point, and a small trolley jack under the engine.

# Loosen Right hand front wheel nuts.
## Position both jacks.
## Remove Wheel.
# Remove bottom pulley: 17mm socket you need to jam the pulley or the fly wheel to undo this nut (if you can't undo this nut ''don't'' go any further!). Lotus recommend setting the TDC before taking the pulley off. I did this slightly differently because you are better off making sure you can get the pulley off before dismantling all of the engine mount/belts/camcovers because you would be quite sick if you spent a couple of hours undoing everything to find you cannot undo the bottom pulley nut !
# Loosen Alternator belt and PAS belt tensioners
## Remove these two belts.
# Take weight of engine with trolley jack (I used rubber mat on jack so not to damage sump). '''You shouldn't really jack the car up like this because you can warp the sump''', but as it was only taking the engine weight I went ahead as I couldn't see anywhere else to stick the jack)
# Remove Right hand engine mount.
## Remove the bolt securing the engine bracket to the right hand engine mounting rubber.
## Remove the four bolts securing this to the engine.
# Remove all Bolts on the cambelt covers
# Make sure the engine is set at TDC. That is the two marks on the top pulleys facing each other. Use the long bolts from the cam cover to lock the two top pulleys. Don't worry if the engine is not at TDC. Just pop the bottom pulley on and rotate the engine this way. Don't be tempted to turn it by using the top pulley bolts.With the top pulleys locked you cannot make any mistakes and put all of the timing out.
# [[Image:ElanCambeltAnnot.jpg|Elan Cambelt|thumbnail]] This photograph shows:
## Cambelt direction
## TDC (two red dots facing each other)
## How to lock the top pulleys in a safe position
## How the cambelt tension should be adjusted
# Remove the cambelt, use a spline socket wrench to loosen the tensioner pulley clamp bolt and an allen key to hold the hub, and rotate the pulley clockwise to slacken the belt. Slide the belt off the pulleys.

'''IF YOU'VE GOT THIS FAR YOU'RE HALFWAY THERE. AND WILL BE FULLY CAPABLE OF FINISHING THE JOB !'''

=Now for some more fun: let's put it all back together again.=
{{warning|text='''WARNINGS FROM THE LOTUS MANUAL'''

* Don't pry or stretch the belt with a screwdriver or any other tool.
* Don't force the belt to bend or twist excessively or damage may be caused to the belt core.
* Don't get oil or any other chemicals on the belt.
* Store cam-belt in a cool place. Don't expose to heat or direct sunlight. (I suppose the engine's a cool place to store it)
* Don't rotate the crankshaft or the camshafts with the belt removed or damage may be caused to the valves and pistons
}}

==Installing the new belt==
[[Image:CambeltRouting.jpg|thumbnail|Here's a picture of the all the pulleys and the routing of the belt.]]

# Make sure the belt is the right direction.
# Slide the belt over the pulleys as shown in diagram. I started from the top and worked the slack downwards. Centralise the belt on all the pulleys.
# Tension the belt (roughly at this stage). Check that the timing marks are still aligned (making sure you haven't disturbed these during belt fitting. Then turn the engine two revolutions in the normal direction to settle the belt. (remember to take the two locking bolts out)
# Tension the belt. Lotus recommend tensioning the belt at 60Degrees ATDC(''A''fter ''T''op ''D''ead ''C''entre) this made no sense to me..
# There is a hexagonal socket so you can tension the new belt using an allen key, turn anti-clockwise to tension. The socket is also used to hold the hub from turning while the clamp bolt is tightened. The belt tension should be measured at the position shown on the picture using a firm finger pressure and to the tension shown.
# Then, in classic Haynes style, everything goes back together reverse order

==Notes from Geoff==

'''Please read in conjunction with Lotus Service Manuals'''''
----
[[Bottom_(crank)_pulley_removal|Remove the bottom pulley]]

[[Engine_mount_removal_(O/S)|Remove the offside engine mount]]

You can now get to the plastic cam belt cover and remove all of the bolts (10mm head) from it, lifting it away to gain access to the bits inside!

The tensioner and water pump bolts were all easy to get at and undo (might be a bit harder with the head still on, though, but quite possible). The only tight one was the idler pulley which is on the head, so at least it is easier to reach.

Remember to clean the face where the water pump joins the block with emery cloth to ensure a good joint, use a new gasket and tighten all 5 bolts (12mm head) evenly to keep the pump ‘flat’ to the block.

When replacing the tensioner, the spring has to go the right way round, and can be a bit fiddly – perseverance from underneath was the way I got it done, but with flexible, thin fingers, it should be possible from above.

With the new timing belt fitted, tension the belt from underneath using a 10mm spanner and a 5mm allen key to get the tension correct (as per the manual). Then replace the plastic cover – it is easier than tensioning it through the hole in the cover (with the rubber bung).

==Additional Reference==
There is a very complete write up with lots of photos of cambelt change, replacing camshaft and crankshaft seals, replacing water pump, cambelt idler and tensioner. It was done by Aamir BT of IsuzuZone and there is a copy at http://www.kact.co.uk/lec/replacing_timing_belt.pdf
[[Category:Incomplete]]
[[Category:HowTo]]

Brake Proportioning (Bias) Valves

2010-06-02T07:27:16Z

Saska:

== Please Note -- Doing Stuff To Your Brakes May Cost You, Or Others, Their Life. Please Be Careful ==

Lotus did various configurations for proportioning the front and rear brake bias -- each rear brake line has it's own set of valves so if one side gets out of specification you can get weird braking behaviour particularly noticeable under hard braking. The purpose of these valves is to regulate the amount of pressure going to the front and rear brakes under the range of braking forces and ultimately to prevent the rear brakes from locking up before the fronts. 
Originally Lotus used a 3/15 main bias valve in conjunction with an additional upstream valve for clenched butt, emergency braking to prevent the rears from locking up before the fronts. In later cars both valves were replaced with a single 2/15 valve. In the Lotus Service Notes it says that if any issues are found with the 3/15 valves (and additional high pressure valve) then both should be removed and replaced with a single 2/15 valve.

So what does 2/15 or 3/15 mean? The 15 refers to: up to 15 bar the brake pressure is the same to both front and rear. Above 15 bar the 2 or 3 number kicks in and rear brake pressure is essentially kept at 20%(2) or 30%(3) of the front brake pressure. 
The 3 dual valve arrangements with 3/15 valves are below. 
1. Pressure limiting valve at 70 bar upstream of the 3/15 valve. 
2. Pressure limiting valve at 65 bar upstream of the 3/15 valve. 
3. Pressure proportioning valve (70:1) upstream of the 3/15 valve. Reduces any increases above 70 bar by 70:1. 
Replacing any of these dual valve systems should be done with a single 2/15 valve according to Lotus. 
[[Image:brake_bias_valve.gif]] 
The problem is that these are either no longer available or 90-110 GBP if you can find them. So what to do?
Back in 2002 Mark Hooper wrote an article about re-building the proportioning valves, see here [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/lec/PropValveRebuild.pdf]
The only thing missing from Mark's article was the dimensions of the O-rings and the sealing washer. Whilst I don't know the sealing washer dimensions, it is not a moving part and according to Mark should be serviceable. 
The dimensions of the 2 O-Rings were measured by BobB from a proportioning valve supplied by Specky: 
Measured the two "O" rings and they are as follows 
smaller one is 3.75 mm id and 1.8 mm cross section 
larger one is 7.1 mm id and 1.8 mm cross section 
Now if you want to replace the seals then '''PLEASE NOTE''' regular nitrile rubber should not be used as brake fluid will eat it. You should obtain EPDM O-rings or O-rings made from something known to work with DOT brake fluid. 
The spring which produces the 15 part of 2/15 has dimensions as follows: 
Spring rate 4.58 N/mm 
33mm long 
14.1 od 
10.9 id 
16 gauge wire diameter 
7 coils ground ends 

If anyone knows the dimensions of the proportioning valve seal then please notify me: adw at saska dot co dot uk 
--[[User:Saska|Saska]] 07:27, 2 June 2010 (UTC)

File:Brake bias valve.gif

2010-06-02T07:22:27Z

Saska: Schematic of Brake Proportioning (Bias) Valve

Schematic of Brake Proportioning (Bias) Valve

Brake Proportioning (Bias) Valves

2010-06-01T19:12:48Z

Saska: New page: == Please Note -- Doing Stuff To Your Brakes May Cost You, Or Others, Their Life. Please Be Careful == Lotus did various configurations for proportioning the front and rear brake bias --...

== Please Note -- Doing Stuff To Your Brakes May Cost You, Or Others, Their Life. Please Be Careful ==

Lotus did various configurations for proportioning the front and rear brake bias -- each rear brake line has it's own set of valves so if one side gets out of specification you can get weird braking behaviour particularly noticeable under hard braking. The purpose of these valves is to regulate the amount of pressure going to the front and rear brakes under the range of braking forces and ultimately to prevent the rear brakes from locking up before the fronts. 
Originally Lotus used a 3/15 main bias valve in conjunction with an additional upstream valve for clenched butt, emergency braking to prevent the rears from locking up before the fronts. In later cars both valves were replaced with a single 2/15 valve. In the Lotus Service Notes it says that if any issues are found with the 3/15 valves (and additional high pressure valve) then both should be removed and replaced with a single 2/15 valve.

So what does 2/15 or 3/15 mean? The 15 refers to: up to 15 bar the brake pressure is the same to both front and rear. Above 15 bar the 2 or 3 number kicks in and rear brake pressure is essentially kept at 20%(2) or 30%(3) of the front brake pressure. 
The 3 dual valve arrangements with 3/15 valves are below. 
1. Pressure limiting valve at 70 bar upstream of the 3/15 valve. 
2. Pressure limiting valve at 65 bar upstream of the 3/15 valve. 
3. Pressure proportioning valve (70:1) upstream of the 3/15 valve. Reduces any increases above 70 bar by 70:1. 
Replacing any of these dual valve systems should be done with a single 2/15 valve according to Lotus.

The problem is that these are either no longer available or 90-110 GBP if you can find them. So what to do?
Back in 2002 Mark Hooper wrote an article about re-building the proportioning valves, see here [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/lec/PropValveRebuild.pdf]
The only thing missing from Mark's article was the dimensions of the O-rings and the sealing washer. Whilst I don't know the sealing washer dimensions, it is not a moving part and according to Mark should be serviceable. 
The dimensions of the 2 O-Rings were measured by BobB from a proportioning valve supplied by Specky: 
Measured the two "O" rings and they are as follows 
smaller one is 3.75 mm id and 1.8 mm cross section 
larger one is 7.1 mm id and 1.8 mm cross section 
Now if you want to replace the seals then '''PLEASE NOTE''' regular nitrile rubber should not be used as brake fluid will eat it. You should obtain EPDM O-rings or O-rings made from something known to work with DOT brake fluid.

If anyone knows the dimensions of the proportioning valve seal then please notify me: adw at saska dot co dot uk

Springs

2010-05-24T06:40:57Z

Saska:

According to Eibach, the spring rates of the standard springs are:

1 N/mm = 5.710146 lb/in
Front 290 lb/inch
Rear 150 lb/inch

See here[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=13348&start=40]

---------------------------
A set of new genuine Lotus front and rear S2 springs were obtained and sent to Turton Springs (Sheffield) for testing -- results below. 
The front spring (B100C0086F) is applicable to all Non-USA SE and S2. It is NOT applicable to the Normally Aspirated or USA cars. 
The rear spring (B100D0071F) is applicable to all Non-USA, SE and S2 and Normally Aspirated. It is NOT applicable to the USA cars. 
<pre>FRONT B100C0086F Yellow/Yellow/Green
Diameter of Wire d (inches) 0.531”
Inside Coil Diameter(inches) 3.298”
Outside Coil Diameter(Inches) 4.360”
Number of Coils: Total 8.5
Free Length (inches): 10.690”
Actual Load Rate Measured on Test (Pounds per inch): 300 Lbs / IN
Loads at Testing:
10.000” = 186 Lbs
9.000” = 485 Lbs
8.000” = 785 Lbs
7.000” = 1087 Lbs
6.000” = 1390 Lbs
Remarks
BOTH ENDS CLOSED & GROUND FLAT & SQUARE
TIPS JUST TOUCHING APPROX THICHNESS 50%
EPC BLACK WITH CC = 2 X YELLOW 1 X GREEN STRIPES

REAR B100D0071F Green/Yellow/White
Diameter of Wire d (inches) 0.406”
Inside Coil Diameter (inches) 3.338”
Outside Coil Diameter(Inches) 4.150”
Number of Coils Total 6.6
Free Length (inches) 9.490”
Load Rate (Pounds per inch) Actual Load Rate Measured on Test (Pounds per inch) 144 Lbs / IN
Loads at Testing
9.000” = 65 Lbs
8.000” = 210 Lbs
7.000” = 354 Lbs
6.000” = 495 Lbs
5.000” = 642 Lbs
Remarks

BOTH ENDS CLOSED & GROUND FLAT & SQUARE
TIPS JUST TOUCHING APPROX THICHNESS 40%
EPC BLACK WITH CC = 1x GREEN 1x YELLOW 1x WHITE
STRIPES
</pre>
------------------------
Normally Aspirated Front Spring 
Specky measured a new normally aspirated front spring:
<pre>Front Spring: A100C0087H
Colour code Yel / Yel / White (with the addition of a red dab of paint as well, no idea why)
Here are a few dimensions of a new item before they disappear into the ether of time and space.
overall uncompressed length 276.86 mm
average thickness of the wire 12.86 mm
average outide diameter (one end) 109.50 mm
average outide diameter (the other end) 109.02 mm
average internal diameter 83.19 mm</pre>
The following added by Saska (moi) 
The only major thing missing is the spring rate which can probably be calculated using the difference in weight since almost all of the difference is at the front. No turbo, intercooler, piping, PCE, etc.
Given we know the SE/S2 front spring rate is 290-300 lbs/in (an S2 is 300 as measured by Turtons) then a straight weight proportion looks like:
<pre>Norma Gross Weight (Full Tank, occupants & luggage): 2679lbs
SE Gross Weight (Full Tank, occupants & luggage): 2730lbs
S2 Gross Weight (Full Tank, occupants & luggage): 2800lbs
So make the S2 1.00 then SE is 0.975 X 300 = 292.5 ibs/in (So the figure of 290 from Eibach is probably for an SE)
Norma vs SE is 0.981 X 290 = 285 lbs/in
Norma vs S2 is 0.957 X 300 = 287 lbs/in
Kerb weights produce exactly the same results.
So I'd think doing a normally aspirated front spring at 285 lbs/in would be perfect near as makes no difference.</pre>

Parts Cross-references by Vehicle Model

2010-04-25T14:55:55Z

Saska:

Please add any you know to this list. Add UK/European cross-references too.

All drive belts, including timing belt excluding Alternator belt-->1991 Isuzu Impulse. Alternator belt is one size smaller than Impulse - Reference: 275K4

Front brake pads-->Pontiac Lemans, 1988-1993 Front, 1988 Pontiac Fiero

Rear brake pads-->1991 Chevy Lumina

Front brake disks-->Vauxhall Astra, 1989 Pontiac LeMans

Front brake calipers-->1981-1988 Opel, Vauxhall with Delco system. 1980-1991 Astra, 1989 Pontiac LeMans

Rear Wheel Bearings-->1985-1998 VW Jetta GL, VW Golf 1984-1992 (MK1), 1992-1998 (MK3) (However, the oil seal that comes with this kit is not the correct one. The following oil seal is required: GM part number 90217059 or Vauxhall Corsa 1983-1993 rear wheel bearing kit.)

Coolant Temperature Sensor-->Pontiac Fiero, Isuzu Impulse RS and Geo Storm, Isuzu Trooper (1986-7 with 2.3l engine and 1992-2001 with 3.2l & 3.5l V6 engines)

Radiator fans thermal switch-->1988 Pontiac Fiero

Radiator Cooling Fans-->Renault 25 AR4 Automatic transmission, Renault Trafic II, Renault Trafic III

Headlight motors-->Pontiac Sunbird GT

A/C blower motor-->1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse

Alternator-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Oil filler cap-->Honda works

Oil filter-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Most engine gaskets-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS

Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (MAP)-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS, Lotus Carlton, 1990 Pontiac Sunbird. For other references (1 Bar, 2 Bar, 3 Bar sensors), see [http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/component_info/sensors.html this cross-reference list.]

Starter-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Horn button switches (Fed Elan)-->1990-1992 Chevy Camaro, Pontiac Firebird

Ignition Coils-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS (the list of GM cars is extensive, [http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductGuide.aspx?mfrcode=BOR&mfrpartnumber=E51 PartsAmerica Coil xref])

O2 sensor-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

CV Boots-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Thermostat-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo, Any 1000cc Mini 1969-1992

Heater valve--> Holden (AUS) Commodore, Volvo 740 and similar; Fiat Spyder

Heater control--> Holden (AUS) Commodore - [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=15590 LEC discussion]

Fuel Pressure Regulator-->1992-1996 Chevrolet Corvette

Idle Air Control Vavle-->[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=16687]

Lower Steering Column U-Joint A100H0050F --> Land Rover Defender Lower Steering UJ NRC7704 (See here[http://kact.co.uk/lec/lower_steering_u_joint.jpg] for photo)

Springs

2010-04-10T20:56:42Z

Saska:

Springs

2010-04-09T13:57:19Z

Saska:

Outside Mirrors

2009-10-20T17:28:52Z

Saska:

== Problems with Parts ==

There are two problem parts in the mirror assembly: the Mirror Glass and Pivot Pins.

Parts: 
Door Mirror Glass: A100U0205F (Works both sides) 
Pivot Pin - Door Mirror Glass A100U6056S (Works both sides) 

The problems with loose Mirror Glass are caused by its fixing and adjustment mechanism. There are several points of failure. The Mirror Glass consists of several parts glued together: the mirror, the heating element and a plastic backing plate. The backing plate snaps into a “spider” (a cross shaped universal joint that is gray in the pictures) using the elasticity of the backing plate’s plastic composition to hold on to the spider. This is what serves to hold the Mirror Glass to the car. Adjusting the mirror actually utilizes some very elegant engineering. The two Pivot Pins run in and out via engagement to electrically driven, rotating, threaded gears.

The failure points of the Mirror Glass are related to molded plastic protrusions that holds the spider. If one of these protrusions breaks, the Mirror Glass can “float” either up and down or side to side. See pictures below.

The Pivot Pin is a very complex one piece molding. On one end the Pivot Pin has very small teeth that are cantilevered off from the main body. It is theses small teeth that are forced into engagement with the rotating threaded gears, of the drive mechanism, by the natural elasticity of the plastic. Note that the cantilevering also acts to protect the teeth; it allows them to slip rather than break when driven all the way inward to the Pivot Pin’s limit of motion. On the other end of the Pivot Pin there is a ball joint with ears. This ball with ears snaps into the Mirror Glass, the ball providing articulation and the ears keeping the Pivot Pin from spinning. Therefore for the Pivot Pin to cause the mirror to move the ball must be fully seated in the socket of the Mirror Glass’ backing plate, the ears must be engaged in the slots that are molded into this socket and the cantilevered teeth must be engaged into the threads of the rotating gear.

There are two failure points on the Pivot Pins. The cantilevered tooth can and does break off. The ears on the ball are fragile and can also break.

As can be seen from the above write-up fitting the Mirror Glass to the car is somewhat difficult. It must connect to three separate pieces all at about the same time. The level of force needed to seat the Mirror Glass to the spider and the Pivot Pins to the rotating nuts is significantly different. The trick that I use is to:

1. Fix the Pivot Pins to the Mirror Glass. A dollop of silicon grease may help the function of the mirror adjustment.

2. Connect the heater element wiring

3. Carefully align the Pivot Pins and push them into their respective rotating threaded gears. Do not push them all the way in, leave plenty of play for the necessary adjustments of the next step.

4. Move the Mirror Glass so it is just starting to engage the spider. Doing this will further engage the Pivot Pins into the threads.

5. Give the Mirror Glass a good sharp whack with my hand to fully engage the spider

[[Image:Pivot_Pin.jpg]]

Pivot Pin, plastic, door mirror (A100U6056S). Although it is difficult to see, this piece is also broken. The whole thing is only about an inch (25 mm) long. Two are required per mirror.

[[Image:Mirror_Back.jpg]]

Mirror Glass, heated, convex The passenger side mirror from a left hand drive (federal) car.

[[Image:Mirror_Back_Detail.jpg]]

Note the broken ear that connects to the spider. Also note the two pedestals that have hemispherical indentations and a slot. These pedestals hold the Pivot Pins.

[[Image:Mirror_Body_Internal.jpg]]

== Problem with Fitment ==

A separate problem with the mirrors concerns the safety fold back feature. A symptom of this is that one of the mirrors seems to be positioned differently from the other and one mirror cannot be adjusted to provide a useful view. The mirror housing (my terminology, the nice red part in the associated pictures that holds the adjusting mechanism and Mirror Glass) is held to the car by two springs. Each mirror is positioned by two slotted tabs (front and back) that fit into the black plastic mirror mount (again my terminology). If the mirror housing hits something solid, like a pedestrian, it cams out of mirror mount. Hopefully; this prevents limits damage to the pedestrian and prevents breakage of the mirror.

If the mirror housing has ever been displaced from of its mount, it is possible that it did not get replaced correctly. Check this by pealing back the flexible bellows like cover and having a good look-see. If the mirror’s positioning tabs are not properly engaged it is time to use the strong arm method of repositioning them. Ensure that the door is firmly closed! Pull the mirror housing away from the car, out of engagement with the mirror mount, then gently allow it to reseat, being careful to align the tabs to the mirror mount. Warning, you will be pulling against heavy spring pressure. A good firm grasp of the mirror is necessary. During this procedure it is especially wise not to be wearing items that can scratch the paint (e.g., rings, metal belt buckles, …).

== General Warnings and Cautions ==

I’m no mechanic. I will not be held responsible for death, injury mechanical damage and etc. If you need a real mechanic to help you fix your Lotus I suggest you go find one.

Roll the windows down. Working near expensive, possibly sharp glass never seems like a good idea.

Take off your jewelry! Not only is it a good general safety practice, you will be working near glass. See the previous line.

Don’t wear anything that will scratch the paint. See the previous two lines.

Use your head. With the engine off, put the car in gear and set the parking brake.

Good Luck

--[[User:DeanG|DeanG]] 00:34, 14 November 2008 (UTC)

Turbo - Rebuilding IHI Turbo

2009-05-25T18:24:05Z

Saska:

dapinky (Dave) has produced a comprehensive write-up on how to rebuild the IHI turbo (including porting the wastegate) and given permission for it to be added to the Wiki:

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/download/file.php?id=11147 Elan IHI Turbo Rebuild]

Turbo - Rebuilding IHI Turbo

2009-05-25T18:22:48Z

Saska: New page: Dapinky (Dave) has produced a comprehensive write-up on how to rebuild the IHI turbo (including porting the wastegate) and given permission for it to be added to the Wiki: [http://forum.l...

Dapinky (Dave) has produced a comprehensive write-up on how to rebuild the IHI turbo (including porting the wastegate) and given permission for it to be added to the Wiki:

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/download/file.php?id=11147 Elan IHI Turbo Rebuild]