WikiLEC - User contributions [en]

Parts Cross-references by Vehicle Model

2013-07-15T12:03:31Z

Rmsmall:

Please add any you know to this list. Add UK/European cross-references too.

All drive belts, including timing belt excluding Alternator belt-->1991 Isuzu Impulse. Alternator belt is one size smaller than Impulse - Reference: 275K4

Front brake pads-->Pontiac Lemans, 1988-1993 Front, 1988 Pontiac Fiero

Rear brake pads-->1991 Chevy Lumina

Front brake disks-->Vauxhall Astra, 1989 Pontiac LeMans

Front brake calipers-->1981-1988 Opel, Vauxhall with Delco system. 1980-1991 Astra, 1989 Pontiac LeMans

Rear Wheel Bearings-->1985-1998 VW Jetta GL, VW Golf 1984-1992 (MK1), 1992-1998 (MK3) (However, the oil seal that comes with this kit is not the correct one. The following oil seal is required: GM part number 90217059 or Vauxhall Corsa 1983-1993 rear wheel bearing kit.)

Coolant Temperature Sensor-->Pontiac Fiero, Isuzu Impulse RS and Geo Storm, Isuzu Trooper (1986-7 with 2.3l engine and 1992-2001 with 3.2l & 3.5l V6 engines)

Radiator fans thermal switch-->1988 Pontiac Fiero

Radiator Cooling Fans-->Renault 25 AR4 Automatic transmission, Renault Trafic II, Renault Trafic III

Headlight motors-->Pontiac Sunbird GT

A/C Compressor -->1989 Isuzu I-Mark L4 1.6L F.I. It is a Diesel Kiki DKS-13G with a 5 grooved pulley.

A/C blower motor-->1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse

Alternator-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Oil filler cap-->Honda works

Oil filter-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Most engine gaskets-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS

Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (MAP)-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS, Lotus Carlton, 1990 Pontiac Sunbird. For other references (1 Bar, 2 Bar, 3 Bar sensors), see [http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/component_info/sensors.html this cross-reference list.]

Starter-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Horn button switches (Fed Elan)-->1990-1992 Chevy Camaro, Pontiac Firebird

Ignition Coils-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS (the list of GM cars is extensive, [http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductGuide.aspx?mfrcode=BOR&mfrpartnumber=E51 PartsAmerica Coil xref])

O2 sensor-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

CV Boots-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Thermostat-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo, Any 1000cc Mini 1969-1992

Heater valve--> Holden (AUS) Commodore, Volvo 740 and similar; Fiat Spyder

Heater control--> Holden (AUS) Commodore - [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=15590 LEC discussion]

Fuel Pressure Regulator-->1992-1996 Chevrolet Corvette

Fuel Pump--> 1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo. (The mountings are slightly different, and will require some "rigging," but it's supposed to be a relatively easy job.)

Idle Air Control Vavle-->[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=16687]

Lower Steering Column U-Joint A100H0050F --> Land Rover Defender Lower Steering UJ NRC7704 (See here[http://kact.co.uk/lec/lower_steering_u_joint.jpg] for photo)

Ignition Starter Switch: AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1S6210 {#4971498, 7848744, LS589} on Rockauto.com

Ball joint boots --> "TRACK ROD END BOOTS X4 FITS MASSEY FERGUSON T20 35 135" frequently available on ebay.

Fuel Pump - 1992 Corvette - Spectra Premium SP1120 has wiring connectors included.

Parts Cross-references by Vehicle Model

2012-06-28T14:57:36Z

Rmsmall:

AirCon

2012-06-28T14:55:22Z

Rmsmall: A/C Conversion to R134a and compressor replacement~~~~

The A/C originally came with R12 refrigerant. It can be converted to R134a refrigerant and maintain good performance.

WARNING: The A/C system is under pressure. Always take proper precautions. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves. Avoid getting lubrication oil and refrigerant on skin. The new PAG oils can harm you and refrigerant can freeze skin quickly.

===Replacement Parts===

The AC compressor is the same as used on the 1989 Isuzu I-Mark L4 1.6L F.I. It is a Diesel Kiki DKS-13G with a 5 grooved pulley. Compressor International Inc. has a replacement compressor listed at http://www.compressor-intl.com/HTML/is89.htm. Compressor International Inc. will do a rebuild on your existing compressor for $230.79 plus shipping as of 6/28/2012. They recommend you send in your existing compressor for rebuild to eliminate any chance that you get the wrong compressor.

The receiver/drier has an upward tilted male fitting for the female trinary switch. Many replacement receiver dryers have this fitting at a 90° angle which will be difficult or impossible to fit. Rockauto.com has the correct receiver/drier with the angled male sensor screw for the stock female factory trinary switch. It's the Four Seasons part 33276 used on the 1989 Isuzu Impulse and it's only $12.75 plus shipping as of 6/28/2012. This receiver dryer is a little larger in diameter than the original so it may be necessary to leave the foam off when fitting this part.

At least half of the mineral oil in the system needs to be replaced with the proper PAG 46 refrigerant oil. Using an oil that contains a UV dye will make it easier to do leak detection.

===Conversion to R134a===

Things to know about conversion to R 134a:

*You don't need to flush the entire system if you don't have a catastrophic compressor failure.
*Even then, you can use an inline filter on the suction line instead of flushing (some manufacturers recommend filters instead of flushing) as long as nothing is clogged with debris. Putting in a filter as insurance against random debris is good practice even if you didn't have a catastrophic failure. Autozone seems to be the only USA autoparts chain that carries the thimble inline filters that let you avoid cutting a line to put in a filter. These are AirSept/A/C Inline Filter Kit part number 67576.
*If things are clogged you have to replace the expansion valve which requires removing the dash as this cannot be flushed.
*Always replace the reciever/drier.
*You need to get at least one half of the old mineral oil out. You can do this by draining the compressor, receiver dryer, and blowing out the condenser with compressed air. Collect this so you know how much you've gotten. The system has about 5.3 oz. of oil.
*The existing seals and hoses can be used if you don't flush them. Mineral oil acts as a sealant and flushing removes it.
*You have to replace any seals in joints you open with R134a resistant seals.
*R134A uses approximately 80% of the R12 charge or 24 ounces instead of 28 ounces plus or -2 Ounces.

Steps to convert.

1. Get the old R12 out of the system - there may be restrictions on how you do this though as an individual they may not apply to you.

2. Replace the receiver/drier. Add 0.5 oz. PAG46 oil to the new reciever/drier.

3. Punch holes in the bottom of the old receiver dryer and drain the oil into a measuring cup noting the amount.

4. Drain the oil out of the compressor, again noting the amount. (Note: I had the compressor rebuilt so I'm not sure if you can do this without removing the compressor. There is a drain plug that can be removed from the compressor.)

5. If you have drained less than 2.5 oz. of oil, blow out the oil out of the condenser with compressed air. Collect this and make sure you are up to 2.5 oz. If you have not gotten to 2.5 oz. you can try to drain more from the system or decide that you system has lost oil due to leaks or other reason. The main issue if you have too much oil is increased potential for a compressor failure.

6. Replace the oil in the compressor with PAG 46 oil. Add the same amount removed from the compressor if it was over 2 ounces otherwise add 2 ounces.

7. Put R134a connectors on the R12 connectors.

8. Place gauges on the system and vacuum for at least 30 min. Turn off the vacuum and make sure the system has no leaks (holds pressure). If you don't have the gauges or vacuum, you can have an A/C shop do it.

9. Charge with 24 ounces of R134a.

10. Check the low side pressure and make sure it does not go over 40 pounds or 275 kPa. If your system is blowing out cool air instead of cold air, check for an overcharge condition by checking the temperature of the lines into the receiver dryer. If they're hot instead of lukewarm you have an overcharge condition.

At this point, you should have cold air. If you're sitting in the garage the air may feel cool instead of cold. If pressures are okay, take a test drive and see if it cools down.

===Removing the Compressor===

1. Put front end up on jackstands - but loosen front wheel bolts first so you can:

2. Remove front wheels.

3. Remove right wheel well liner.

4. Unbolt both ends of front sway bar. Use an adjustable wrench to hold bracket square so you don't break.

5. Unbolt the right side of sway bar from hanger.

6. Remove hoses and bolts from compressor.

7. Grunting loudly, carefully pry the compressor loose from the bracket. A very long, thin pry bar is useful.

8. Once you have the compressor lose, you should be able to get it out on the right side.

Cooling Fans

2012-06-28T13:22:54Z

Rmsmall:

==Background==

The cooling fans are not bespoke to the Élan they were obtained from the Valeo parts bin. The Lotus Élan utilizes two such fans. As for commonality the same unit is in common use on the Renault 25 AR4 Automatic transmission, Renault Trafic II, Renault Trafic III and possibly the Vauxhall Arena camper van.

The fans on USA cars are standard 9" size. On the USA cars, the right is a straight blade low-profile 9 inch fan which is around 475 CPM, the left is the same in the non-USA cars, a 4 blade higher profile fan that is around 740 CPM.

Lotus does not stock these assemblies as they are now obsolete.

== Part markings ==

addict: 1p8012/53a, Made in Italy, gate asti, 12v

Geoff: MP8012/RT, Made in Italy, Gate SpA Asti, 12v, 7700795199

== Common Faults ==

The two most common faults are heavy corrosion and the electric fans tend to seize.

[[Image:Old fan.jpg]]

== Replacement Parts==

OEM replacements are available by [http://www.aepdirect.com / AEP based in Scotland]. It's best to phone them direct and quote their Ref No. If they have no stock you can place the fan on back order.

They can provide a new OEM cooling fan and shroud manufactured by Valeo for approximately £68 each.

Renault can provide a new OEM cooling fan and shroud manufactured by Valeo for approximately £176:85 each.

[[Image:New fan 1 529.jpg]][[Image:New fan 3 207.jpg]][[Image:New fan 4 593.jpg]]

== USA ==

In the USA, 9" fans from Derale, Zirgo and other manufacturers are readily available that are exact fits. These will also work on non-USA cars once the square mounting tabs shown in the picture below are removed. Many of these can be ordered on www.Amazon.com.

[[Image:USA_FAN.jpg‎ ]]

== OEM Part Numbers ==

Old Lotus part number A100K0017F (Now obsolete)
New Lotus part number A100K6024F (Now obsolete)

USA Lotus A100K6024F

AEP DIRECT CF627

Autogamma GA201627

Valeo OEM 7700795199

UK Renault 7700795199
UK Renault 7700802142

FrigAir 0509.1627
Aimrad 0509.1627

If you have problems do an internet search for the Valeo Part Number only 7700795199

=== Information and Tech links ===

http://www.autogamma.com/Catalogo.asp?currentCode=GA201627&ricerca=CodiceAutogamma

http://www.autogamma.com/img.asp?id=387&ricerca=CodiceAutogamma

http://www.frigair.com/en/dettaglio_prodotto.php?MARCA_AUTO=RENAULT&MODELLO_AUTO=R25&MOTORIZZAZIONE=2.0%20TS-GTS&cod_frigair_dettaglio=0509.1627&DETTAGLIO_SEZIONE_TERMICA=1

== Testing the old fans ==

The warning signs

Your fans should start to work when reaching 3/4 on the temperature gauge scale.

Test 1

The first step is to remove the connector from the switch on the thermostat housing and ground it directly. The fans should begin to work.

If the fans come on you either have a stuck thermostat or a bad switch.

Test 2

If the fans still do not come on, it's time to inspect fuses.

There are 3 fuses in the circuit, one for the supply to the fans relay (30A), and one for each fan individually (15A). Chances are if neither fan comes on it will be the main fuse or the cooling fan relay. The good news is the relay and the 15A fuses are above the instrument cluster, the bad news is the 30A fuse is in the maxi-fuse box on the tunnel top behind the dash.

Test 3

Check for poor earth connection to top bolt of Rad support frame.

Test 4

Check for corrosion on all inline connectors and fuses

== Fitting the new fans ==

On USA cars, the right hand fan is obstructed by the radiator bracket and can be difficult to remove and replace. It can be done without removing the bracket. Note that new grommets are available at well equiped hardware stores in the USA.

If you fits USA 9" fans on a non-USA car you will need to trim the square mounting brackets to get them to fit.

== Alternatives ==

Candles has a pair of [http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=PCTCF22 Demon Tweak fans]. The CF22 were selected as they were the only size that would fit on the back of the radiator. They are supplied with 'quickmounts' which are like cable ties for radiators and make the mounting very easy and corrosion free. Wiring them in requires cutting the supplied plugs off the fans and soldering or crimping the plugs from the stock fans onto them. The supplied thermostat and harness can be discarded.

[[Category: ReplacementParts]]
[[Category:Components]]

Ignition switch

2010-08-27T13:10:42Z

Rmsmall:

The electric Ignition Starter Switch is from the 1988 to 93 Pontiac Lemans (USA). AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1S6210 {#4971498, 7848744, LS589} on rockauto.com. BWD Ignition Starter Switch Part No. CS302 at Advance Auto Parts. Key cylinder should be from the same model but not confirmed.

The electrical part is held in by a set screw on the steering wheel side and a pin on the front side. You can remove without taking the steering wheel off by bending the end of a small screw driver to a right angle and using this to remove set screw. The pin is suppose to stay in but if it was overdriven you will have to remove it to get the part out. The pin should be flush with the housing and will be recessed if overdriven. The overdriven pin will come out if you press it in with a small screw driver or punch and pull hard on the switch. You might break the part removing so don't do this unless you plan on replacing. If you have to remove the pin drive it back in until it is flush before replacing the switch. This switch is inexpensive (less than $20) and should be replaced if you're having any problems such as the radio not staying on. You can disassemble and clean contacts as a temporary fix but should plan on replacing if there is any pitting of contacts.

For key cylinder removal, see [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=15915&start=2 LEC write up].

Ignition switch

2010-08-24T22:08:53Z

Rmsmall:

From the 1988 to 93 Pontiac Lemans (USA). AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1S6210 {#4971498, 7848744, LS589} on rockauto.com. BWD Ignition Starter Switch Part No. CS302 at Advance Auto Parts. This is the eletrical part. Key cylinder should be from the same model but not confirmed.

The electrical part is held in by a set screw on the steering wheel side and a pin on the front side. You can remove without taking the steering wheel off by bending the end of a small screw driver to a right angle and using this to remove set screw. The pin will come out if you press it in with a small screw drive and pull hard. You might break part removing so don't do this unless you plan on replacing.

For key cylinder removal, see [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=15915&start=2 LEC write up].

Ignition switch

2010-08-24T22:03:34Z

Rmsmall:

Ignition switch

2010-08-24T22:02:49Z

Rmsmall:

Ignition switch

2010-08-24T22:01:01Z

Rmsmall:

Ignition switch

2010-08-24T21:59:20Z

Rmsmall:

From the 1988 to 93 Pontiac Lemans (USA). AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1S6210 {#4971498, 7848744, LS589} on rockauto.com

For removal, see [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=15915&start=2 LEC write up].

Ignition switch

2010-08-24T18:52:43Z

Rmsmall:

Probably GM based. AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1S6210 {#4971498, 7848744, LS589} on rockauto.com

For removal, see [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=15915&start=2 LEC write up].

Parts Cross-references by Vehicle Model

2010-08-24T18:51:49Z

Rmsmall:

Please add any you know to this list. Add UK/European cross-references too.

All drive belts, including timing belt excluding Alternator belt-->1991 Isuzu Impulse. Alternator belt is one size smaller than Impulse - Reference: 275K4

Front brake pads-->Pontiac Lemans, 1988-1993 Front, 1988 Pontiac Fiero

Rear brake pads-->1991 Chevy Lumina

Front brake disks-->Vauxhall Astra, 1989 Pontiac LeMans

Front brake calipers-->1981-1988 Opel, Vauxhall with Delco system. 1980-1991 Astra, 1989 Pontiac LeMans

Rear Wheel Bearings-->1985-1998 VW Jetta GL, VW Golf 1984-1992 (MK1), 1992-1998 (MK3) (However, the oil seal that comes with this kit is not the correct one. The following oil seal is required: GM part number 90217059 or Vauxhall Corsa 1983-1993 rear wheel bearing kit.)

Coolant Temperature Sensor-->Pontiac Fiero, Isuzu Impulse RS and Geo Storm, Isuzu Trooper (1986-7 with 2.3l engine and 1992-2001 with 3.2l & 3.5l V6 engines)

Radiator fans thermal switch-->1988 Pontiac Fiero

Radiator Cooling Fans-->Renault 25 AR4 Automatic transmission, Renault Trafic II, Renault Trafic III

Headlight motors-->Pontiac Sunbird GT

A/C blower motor-->1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse

Alternator-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Oil filler cap-->Honda works

Oil filter-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Most engine gaskets-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS

Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (MAP)-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS, Lotus Carlton, 1990 Pontiac Sunbird. For other references (1 Bar, 2 Bar, 3 Bar sensors), see [http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/component_info/sensors.html this cross-reference list.]

Starter-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Horn button switches (Fed Elan)-->1990-1992 Chevy Camaro, Pontiac Firebird

Ignition Coils-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS (the list of GM cars is extensive, [http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductGuide.aspx?mfrcode=BOR&mfrpartnumber=E51 PartsAmerica Coil xref])

O2 sensor-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

CV Boots-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Thermostat-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo, Any 1000cc Mini 1969-1992

Heater valve--> Holden (AUS) Commodore, Volvo 740 and similar; Fiat Spyder

Heater control--> Holden (AUS) Commodore - [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=15590 LEC discussion]

Fuel Pressure Regulator-->1992-1996 Chevrolet Corvette

Fuel Pump--> 1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo. (The mountings are slightly different, and will require some "rigging," but it's supposed to be a relatively easy job.)

Idle Air Control Vavle-->[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=16687]

Lower Steering Column U-Joint A100H0050F --> Land Rover Defender Lower Steering UJ NRC7704 (See here[http://kact.co.uk/lec/lower_steering_u_joint.jpg] for photo)

Ignition Starter Switch: AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1S6210 {#4971498, 7848744, LS589} on Rockauto.com

Parts Cross-references by Vehicle Model

2009-07-26T16:55:56Z

Rmsmall:

Parts Cross-references by Vehicle Model

2009-07-26T16:53:43Z

Rmsmall: Update alternator belt info

AirCon Blower Motor

2009-06-24T17:04:19Z

Rmsmall:

The A/C blower motor is located on the right hand side and is held in place by 3 screws. On LHD cars it can easily be accessed and removed/replaced from the passenger compartment. On RHD cars removing the main fascia may be necessary to access the blower. A revision to this article is needed by a RHD car owner explaining how to access it on RHD cars.

The A/C Blower Motor is similar to the unit used in the 1990 - 1994 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE and 1989 - 1992 DODGE/PLYMOUTH COLT. The motor cooling port on the pictured part in the catalogues is different (square rather than rounded) but it is listed in the part cross reference so it appears to work as a substitute.

Problems in the blower motor may be caused by dirt build up which keeps the brushes from making full contact with the shaft. This may cause the blower to work intermittently or not at all. The blower motor can be cleaned or the brushes replaced as long as the bearings are good.

== To clean, repair or replace the blower motor: ==

LHD Cars:

1. Turn the ignition off and remove the key from the ignition. (Properly you should disconnect the battery but there is no current to the motor if the ignition is off in USA LHD cars.)

2. From the footwell of the passenger compartment, look up and locate the blower motor. Disconnect the electrical connector coming from the motor. Do not touch the connector that is next to the blower mounting plate as the blower can be removed with this in place.

3. Remove the 3 screws and the unit should be easily removed with the fan attached.

4. Check if there is any play in the bearing. If there is any side to side motion, replace the motor.

5. Remove the 2 nuts on the top of the motor and slide off the end cap. The brushes and rear bearing will be attached to this.

6. Slide brushes out of their guides and clean the brushes and guides with electical or brake parts cleaner. Don't lose the springs!

7. Inspect the brushes for cracks and wear. If broken or worn to the point that they won't make good contact, replace with similar brushes. Most hardware or electrical supply houses should have replacements (not Home Depot.)

8. Slide brushes and springs back in housing and make sure they move freely.

9. Lightly grease the shaft end with high temp grease (High temp bearing grease should work.)

10. Holding the brushes back with your fingers (or a paperclip), slide the end cap back on the shaft and replace nuts.

11. Reinstall blower and test for function. Replace if it still does not work.

RHD Cars:
Should be similar to above but details of removal are needed.

AirCon Blower Motor

2009-06-24T13:17:58Z

Rmsmall: A/C Blower Motor cleaning, repair and replacement.

The A/C blower motor is located on the right hand side and is held in place by 3 screws. On LHD cars it can easily be accessed and removed/replaced from the passenger compartment. On RHD cars removing the main fascia may be necessary to access the blower. A revision to this article is needed by a RHD car owner explaining how to access it on RHD cars.

The A/C Blower Motor is similar to the unit used in the 1990 - 1994 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE and 1989 - 1992 DODGE/PLYMOUTH COLT. The motor cooling port on the pictured part in the catalogues is different (square rather than rounded) but it is listed in the part cross reference so it appears to work as a substitute.

Problems in the blower motor may be caused by dirt build up which keeps the brushes from making full contact with the shaft. This may cause the blow to work intermittently or not at all. The blower motor can be cleaned or the brushes replaced as long as the bearings are good.

== To clean, repair or replace the blower motor: ==

LHD Cars:

1. Turn the ignition off and remove the key from the ignition. (Properly you should disconnect the battery but there is no current to the motor if the ignition is off in USA LHD cars.)

2. From the footwell of the passenger compartment, look up and locate the blower motor. Disconnect the electrical connector coming from the motor. Do not touch the connector that is next to the blower mounting plate as the blower can be removed with this in place.

3. Remove the 3 screws and the unit should be easily removed with the fan attached.

4. Check if there is any play in the bearing. If there is any side to side motion, replace the motor.

5. Remove the 2 nuts on the top of the motor and slide off the end cap. The brushes and bear will be attached to this.

6. Slide brushes out of their guides and clean the brushes and guides with electical or brake parts cleaner. Don't lose the springs!

7. Inspect the brushes for cracks and wear. If broken or worn to the point that they won't make good contact, replace with similar brushes. Most hardware or electrical supply houses should have replacements (not Home Depot.)

8. Slide brushes and springs back in housing and make sure they move freely.

9. Lightly grease the shaft end with high temp grease (High temp bearing grease should work.)

10. Holding the brushes back with your fingers (or a paperclip), slide the end cap back on the shaft and replace nuts.

11. Reinstall blower and test for function. Replace if it still does not work.

RHD Cars:
Should be similar to above but details of removal are needed.