WikiLEC - User contributions [en]

Forum Searching

2015-02-26T09:45:27Z

RayD: New page: '''Please feel free to add to this page any tips on searching the forum''' While a basic search would involve simply typing the appropriate words in the search box, searching the differen...

'''Please feel free to add to this page any tips on searching the forum'''

While a basic search would involve simply typing the appropriate words in the search box, searching the different Forums individually is always an option.

Each MAJOR topic on the Index page is considered to be a forum

Just click on the Forum heading and that forum's top page will offer a "search this forum" on the left side by the Forum name.

Also, drilling down to any of the topics in that forum will also offer a "search this topic"

For multi word searches, put the string within "quotes like this". That exact group will be all that comes up.

If you are looking for a small word, anything less than 3 letters will need an asterisk* to actually search anything.

If you want to search multiple, similar terms and get hits on ANY of them, you can put them between parentheses (separated,by,commas)

OR separated|by|the pipe character and posts with any of the terms will be shown.

If you do a broad search and find a lot of results that share a term you don't want included, include that term in the search with a - (negative sign) in front (-term).

So, if you want to read about Piper Exhausts, you could search on "piper exhaust". Searching +piper and +exhaust will get you every post with piper and every post with exhaust. To find all exhaust posts WITHOUT piper, search exhaust -piper

Even after creating a very broad search, the search box at the top left will let you re-search within THOSE results.

These are very general rules and I am sure there are more available.

You can also click on ADVANCED Search and use the form there to pick all of your search options.

That is also how you search for posts by a member. Use the Search for author: search box.

'''Taken from a post by John Callaghan (BritCarNut)'''

Hood Tensioning cables

2015-02-15T21:19:04Z

RayD:

'''A guide to repairing the Hood Tensioning Cables'''

Today I tackled the hood tensioner cables.

Both sides had broken free at the header rail end resulting in saggy sides to the hood and an ever increasing dampness under any form of inclement weather conditions.

The solution has given a very taught side tension of the hood canvas which is now tight against the hood seals.

'''Tools you will need for the job:'''

Wire cutters

Pliers or similar

Drill with 3 mm bit for metal.

Screw driver or socket with a 1/4 inch drive.

Bicycle brake or gear cable

2-3mm heat shrink tubing

I sources both my cable and heat shrink tubing from Amazon... http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008DFW8JA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 Heat Shrik Tubing - £4.66

[[Image:IMG_0294-1.JPG‎ ]]

[[Image:Screen_Shot_2015-02-15_at_17.02.33.png‎]]

Bike Gear/Brake Cable - £5.79

I firstly removed the existing cables and used these to measure the lengths of cable and heat shrink tubing needed. To remove the cable, loosen the 1/4 inch bolt at the back of the rear hood supporting bar and simply withdraw through the side channels of the hood. This can be done from either end if the front fixing is broken.

I cut the cable approximately 100mm longer than the original to give room for manoeuvre. I also chose the slightly thicker grade of cable from the two supplied in the pack as this was closest to the existing cable. This would assist later when you need to push the cable back through the canvas side channels of the hood, where a thinner cable would be prone to kinking and getting caught.

As you can see, I cut the cable maintaining the end fixing that would be used on a bike. This will be used at the hood header rail end and will provide a much stronger solution that the original riveted fixing.

The next step is to cover the cable you have cut to length with the heat shrink tubing. I purchased 3mm tubing, but 2mm tubing would be fine and probably a slightly closer fit. To shrink the tubing to fit, I gently heated over a gas burner flame, using a lighter for the areas where it needed more focus.

[[Image:IMG_0297-1.JPG]]

With the hood raised and the door open, I then started the delicate process of making the repair. You will be approaching this from the front end corner of the header rail hood seal.

The original fixing is hidden by canvas and metal and is very difficult to see. You will be drilling a hole through the existing fixing plate. In order to do this, you may need to gently prise away the canvas from the inside of the car, gently pushing it away at the near outside corner. Focusing on the area marked in green on the picture below. You will shortly be drilling the area from the underside and you need to ensure you will not puncture the canvas.

[[Image:IMG_0298-2.jpg]]

Once you have some clearance, I would suggest inserting a disposable shim of some sort between the canvas and the plate onto which it is adhered. I used a 3 mm thick bracket that had rounded edges. This will protect the canvas when you drill through from the underside.

Gently pull and hold back the corner of the rubber seal and, using a 3mm drill (this is bigger than the diameter of the cable, but will allow the lug at the end of he cable to recess into the plate and provide a more flush fixing) Drill a hole through the canvas and mounting plate slightly forward of the existing rivet fixing.

The location of the mounting plate and existing pop rivet (obscured by the canvas) is indicated in the below picture, with the position of the new hole you will be drilling ... arrowed in red.

[[Image:IMG_0300-2.jpg]]

Now you have the hole drilled, I would recommend using a scalpel or Stanley knife to gently cut the canvas at the edges of the hole you have created to make sure it is clear and the cable/lug will not foul up on it.

Use a small one to two inch section of the heat shrink tubing to protect the end of the cable. This will help prevent the individual strands of the cable getting caught in the canvas as you feed it through the edging channel. I let the tubing overhang the end by a few mm before shrinking it to fit and then cutting back to just forward of the cable end. Applying some further heat to shrink around the end.

[[Image:IMG_0305-1.JPG]]

Now remove the shim you inserted to protect the canvas and push the cable through from the hole you have created, guiding from the inside to make sure it does not catch/puncture the hood canvas.

[[Image:IMG_0301-1.JPG]]

I found that pushing the cable all the way through at this point and locating the end lug into the mounting plate BEFORE inserting through the canvas side channels was the best method. This then allowed more cable to grip to help guide it through the canvas. You may need to increase the size of the slit in the canvas to make inserting the cable easier.

[[Image:IMG_0304-1.JPG]]

(Shows the cable pushed through but lug not fully located into mounting plate)

Continue threading the cable through the side of the hood canvas. Then through the two elastic loops towards the rear.

At this stage, you will need to cut off or remove the extra 1-2 inch tubing on the end of the cable before threading it through the rear bar of the hood.
Make sure the small retaining bolt is loosened fully to allow the cable to pass through cleanly. The head of the bolt appears to be a 1/4 inch.

[[Image:IMG_0307-1.JPG]]

At this stage, close and lock in place the hood.
Using pliers, pull the cable through fully maintaining under tension whilst you tighten the retaining bolt with your 1/4 socket.
Release the front hood clamps to allow the cable to slacken.
Unscrew the 1/4 inch retaining bolt enough to pull through approximately 5mm at re-tighten.

Lastly, cut the cable to final length (allow 2 inches length beyond the clamp to permit future adjustment if required) and finish with a cable end-tidy.

You hood canvas should be now nice and tight against the hood side seals without applying too much tension and pulling the front header away from the windscreen header seal.

[[Image:IMG_0308-1.JPG]]

Good luck and enjoy the dry interior.

Matt

Hood Tensioning cables

2015-02-15T21:18:26Z

RayD:

'''A guide to repairing the Hood Tensioning Cables'''

Today I tackled the hood tensioner cables. Both sides had broken free at the header rail end resulting in saggy sides to the hood and an ever increasing dampness under any form of inclement weather conditions. The solution has given a very taught side tension of the hood canvas which is now tight against the hood seals.

'''Tools you will need for the job:'''

Wire cutters

Pliers or similar

Drill with 3 mm bit for metal.

Screw driver or socket with a 1/4 inch drive.

Bicycle brake or gear cable

2-3mm heat shrink tubing

I sources both my cable and heat shrink tubing from Amazon... http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008DFW8JA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 Heat Shrik Tubing - £4.66

[[Image:IMG_0294-1.JPG‎ ]]

[[Image:Screen_Shot_2015-02-15_at_17.02.33.png‎]]

Bike Gear/Brake Cable - £5.79

I firstly removed the existing cables and used these to measure the lengths of cable and heat shrink tubing needed. To remove the cable, loosen the 1/4 inch bolt at the back of the rear hood supporting bar and simply withdraw through the side channels of the hood. This can be done from either end if the front fixing is broken.

I cut the cable approximately 100mm longer than the original to give room for manoeuvre. I also chose the slightly thicker grade of cable from the two supplied in the pack as this was closest to the existing cable. This would assist later when you need to push the cable back through the canvas side channels of the hood, where a thinner cable would be prone to kinking and getting caught.

As you can see, I cut the cable maintaining the end fixing that would be used on a bike. This will be used at the hood header rail end and will provide a much stronger solution that the original riveted fixing.

The next step is to cover the cable you have cut to length with the heat shrink tubing. I purchased 3mm tubing, but 2mm tubing would be fine and probably a slightly closer fit. To shrink the tubing to fit, I gently heated over a gas burner flame, using a lighter for the areas where it needed more focus.

[[Image:IMG_0297-1.JPG]]

With the hood raised and the door open, I then started the delicate process of making the repair. You will be approaching this from the front end corner of the header rail hood seal.

The original fixing is hidden by canvas and metal and is very difficult to see. You will be drilling a hole through the existing fixing plate. In order to do this, you may need to gently prise away the canvas from the inside of the car, gently pushing it away at the near outside corner. Focusing on the area marked in green on the picture below. You will shortly be drilling the area from the underside and you need to ensure you will not puncture the canvas.

[[Image:IMG_0298-2.jpg]]

Once you have some clearance, I would suggest inserting a disposable shim of some sort between the canvas and the plate onto which it is adhered. I used a 3 mm thick bracket that had rounded edges. This will protect the canvas when you drill through from the underside.

Gently pull and hold back the corner of the rubber seal and, using a 3mm drill (this is bigger than the diameter of the cable, but will allow the lug at the end of he cable to recess into the plate and provide a more flush fixing) Drill a hole through the canvas and mounting plate slightly forward of the existing rivet fixing.

The location of the mounting plate and existing pop rivet (obscured by the canvas) is indicated in the below picture, with the position of the new hole you will be drilling ... arrowed in red.

[[Image:IMG_0300-2.jpg]]

Now you have the hole drilled, I would recommend using a scalpel or Stanley knife to gently cut the canvas at the edges of the hole you have created to make sure it is clear and the cable/lug will not foul up on it.

Use a small one to two inch section of the heat shrink tubing to protect the end of the cable. This will help prevent the individual strands of the cable getting caught in the canvas as you feed it through the edging channel. I let the tubing overhang the end by a few mm before shrinking it to fit and then cutting back to just forward of the cable end. Applying some further heat to shrink around the end.

[[Image:IMG_0305-1.JPG]]

Now remove the shim you inserted to protect the canvas and push the cable through from the hole you have created, guiding from the inside to make sure it does not catch/puncture the hood canvas.

[[Image:IMG_0301-1.JPG]]

I found that pushing the cable all the way through at this point and locating the end lug into the mounting plate BEFORE inserting through the canvas side channels was the best method. This then allowed more cable to grip to help guide it through the canvas. You may need to increase the size of the slit in the canvas to make inserting the cable easier.

[[Image:IMG_0304-1.JPG]]

(Shows the cable pushed through but lug not fully located into mounting plate)

Continue threading the cable through the side of the hood canvas. Then through the two elastic loops towards the rear.

At this stage, you will need to cut off or remove the extra 1-2 inch tubing on the end of the cable before threading it through the rear bar of the hood.
Make sure the small retaining bolt is loosened fully to allow the cable to pass through cleanly. The head of the bolt appears to be a 1/4 inch.

[[Image:IMG_0307-1.JPG]]

At this stage, close and lock in place the hood.
Using pliers, pull the cable through fully maintaining under tension whilst you tighten the retaining bolt with your 1/4 socket.
Release the front hood clamps to allow the cable to slacken.
Unscrew the 1/4 inch retaining bolt enough to pull through approximately 5mm at re-tighten.

Lastly, cut the cable to final length (allow 2 inches length beyond the clamp to permit future adjustment if required) and finish with a cable end-tidy.

You hood canvas should be now nice and tight against the hood side seals without applying too much tension and pulling the front header away from the windscreen header seal.

[[Image:IMG_0308-1.JPG]]

Good luck and enjoy the dry interior.

Matt

Hood Tensioning cables

2015-02-15T21:17:22Z

RayD:

'''A guide to repairing the Hood Tensioning Cables'''

Today I tackled the hood tensioner cables. Both sides had broken free at the header rail end resulting in saggy sides to the hood and an ever increasing dampness under any form of inclement weather conditions. The solution has given a very taught side tension of the hood canvas which is now tight against the hood seals.

'''Tools you will need for the job:'''

Wire cutters
Pliers or similar
Drill with 3 mm bit for metal.
Screw driver or socket with a 1/4 inch drive.
Bicycle brake or gear cable
2-3mm heat shrink tubing

I sources both my cable and heat shrink tubing from Amazon... http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008DFW8JA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00 Heat Shrik Tubing - £4.66

[[Image:IMG_0294-1.JPG‎ ]]

[[Image:Screen_Shot_2015-02-15_at_17.02.33.png‎]]

Bike Gear/Brake Cable - £5.79

I firstly removed the existing cables and used these to measure the lengths of cable and heat shrink tubing needed. To remove the cable, loosen the 1/4 inch bolt at the back of the rear hood supporting bar and simply withdraw through the side channels of the hood. This can be done from either end if the front fixing is broken.

I cut the cable approximately 100mm longer than the original to give room for manoeuvre. I also chose the slightly thicker grade of cable from the two supplied in the pack as this was closest to the existing cable. This would assist later when you need to push the cable back through the canvas side channels of the hood, where a thinner cable would be prone to kinking and getting caught.

As you can see, I cut the cable maintaining the end fixing that would be used on a bike. This will be used at the hood header rail end and will provide a much stronger solution that the original riveted fixing.

The next step is to cover the cable you have cut to length with the heat shrink tubing. I purchased 3mm tubing, but 2mm tubing would be fine and probably a slightly closer fit. To shrink the tubing to fit, I gently heated over a gas burner flame, using a lighter for the areas where it needed more focus.

[[Image:IMG_0297-1.JPG]]

With the hood raised and the door open, I then started the delicate process of making the repair. You will be approaching this from the front end corner of the header rail hood seal.

The original fixing is hidden by canvas and metal and is very difficult to see. You will be drilling a hole through the existing fixing plate. In order to do this, you may need to gently prise away the canvas from the inside of the car, gently pushing it away at the near outside corner. Focusing on the area marked in green on the picture below. You will shortly be drilling the area from the underside and you need to ensure you will not puncture the canvas.

[[Image:IMG_0298-2.jpg]]

Once you have some clearance, I would suggest inserting a disposable shim of some sort between the canvas and the plate onto which it is adhered. I used a 3 mm thick bracket that had rounded edges. This will protect the canvas when you drill through from the underside.

Gently pull and hold back the corner of the rubber seal and, using a 3mm drill (this is bigger than the diameter of the cable, but will allow the lug at the end of he cable to recess into the plate and provide a more flush fixing) Drill a hole through the canvas and mounting plate slightly forward of the existing rivet fixing.

The location of the mounting plate and existing pop rivet (obscured by the canvas) is indicated in the below picture, with the position of the new hole you will be drilling ... arrowed in red.

[[Image:IMG_0300-2.jpg]]

Now you have the hole drilled, I would recommend using a scalpel or Stanley knife to gently cut the canvas at the edges of the hole you have created to make sure it is clear and the cable/lug will not foul up on it.

Use a small one to two inch section of the heat shrink tubing to protect the end of the cable. This will help prevent the individual strands of the cable getting caught in the canvas as you feed it through the edging channel. I let the tubing overhang the end by a few mm before shrinking it to fit and then cutting back to just forward of the cable end. Applying some further heat to shrink around the end.

[[Image:IMG_0305-1.JPG]]

Now remove the shim you inserted to protect the canvas and push the cable through from the hole you have created, guiding from the inside to make sure it does not catch/puncture the hood canvas.

[[Image:IMG_0301-1.JPG]]

I found that pushing the cable all the way through at this point and locating the end lug into the mounting plate BEFORE inserting through the canvas side channels was the best method. This then allowed more cable to grip to help guide it through the canvas. You may need to increase the size of the slit in the canvas to make inserting the cable easier.

[[Image:IMG_0304-1.JPG]]

(Shows the cable pushed through but lug not fully located into mounting plate)

Continue threading the cable through the side of the hood canvas. Then through the two elastic loops towards the rear.

At this stage, you will need to cut off or remove the extra 1-2 inch tubing on the end of the cable before threading it through the rear bar of the hood.
Make sure the small retaining bolt is loosened fully to allow the cable to pass through cleanly. The head of the bolt appears to be a 1/4 inch.

[[Image:IMG_0307-1.JPG]]

At this stage, close and lock in place the hood.
Using pliers, pull the cable through fully maintaining under tension whilst you tighten the retaining bolt with your 1/4 socket.
Release the front hood clamps to allow the cable to slacken.
Unscrew the 1/4 inch retaining bolt enough to pull through approximately 5mm at re-tighten.

Lastly, cut the cable to final length (allow 2 inches length beyond the clamp to permit future adjustment if required) and finish with a cable end-tidy.

You hood canvas should be now nice and tight against the hood side seals without applying too much tension and pulling the front header away from the windscreen header seal.

[[Image:IMG_0308-1.JPG]]

Good luck and enjoy the dry interior.

Matt

Hood Tensioning cables

2015-02-15T20:55:47Z

RayD:

'''How to guide to repair the Hood Tensioning Cables'''

Today I tackled the hood tensioner cables. Both sides had broken free at the header rail end resulting in saggy sides to the hood and a an ever increasing dampness under any form of inclement weather conditions. The solution has given a very taught side tension of the hod canvas which is now tight agains the hood seals.

'''Tools you will need for the job:'''

Wire cutters
Pliers (i used a multi tool)
Drill with 3 mm bit for metal
screw driver or socket with a 1/4 inch socket head
push bike brake or gear cable
2-3mm heat shrink tubing

I sources both my cable and heat shrink tubing from Amazon... The following links were what I used but there were cheaper solutions. I chose these due to their free and next day delivery with my Amazon Prime membership

Heat Shrik Tubing - £4.66

[[Image:IMG_0294-1.JPG‎ ]]

[[Image:Screen_Shot_2015-02-15_at_17.02.33.png‎]]

Bike Gear/Brake Cable - £5.79

IMG_0294-1.JPG

I firstly removed the existing cables and used these to measure the length of cable required and the length of heat shrink tubing needed. To remove the cable, loosen the 1/4 inch bolt at the back of the rear hood supporting bar and simply withdraw through the side channels of the hood. This can be done from either end once if the front fixing is broken.

I cut my cable to approximately 100mm longer than the existing cable to give me some room for manoeuvre. I also chose the slight thicker grade of cable from the two suppler in the pack as this was closest to the existing cable, but had more strength than the original. This would assist later when you need to push the cable back through the canvas side channels of the hood, where a thinner cable would be prone to kinking and getting caught.

As you can see, I cut the cable maintaining the end fixing that would be used on a bike. This will be used at the hood header rail end and will provide a much stronger solution that the original riveted fixing.

The next step is to cover the cable you have cut to length with the heat shrink tubing. I purchased 3mm tubing, but 2mm tubing would be fine and probably a slightly closer fit. To shrink the tubing to fit, i gently heated over a gas burner flame, using a slighter for the areas where it needed more focus.

[[Image:IMG_0297-1.JPG]]

With the hood raised and the door open, I then went about starting the delicate process of making the repair. You will be approaching this from the front end corner of the header rail hood seal.

The original fixing is hidden by canvas and metal and is very difficult to see. You will be drilling a hole through the existing fixing plate. In order to do this, you may need to gently prise away the canvas from the inside of the car, gently pushing it away at the near outside corner. Focusing on the area marked in green on the picture below. You will shortly be drilling the area from the underside and you need to ensure you will not puncture the canvas.

[[Image:IMG_0298-2.jpg]]

Once you have some clearance, I would suggest inserting a disposable shim of some sort between the canvas and the plate onto which it is adhered. I used a 3 mm thick bracket that had rounded edges. This will protect the canvas when you drill through from the underside.

Gently pull and hold back the corner of the rubber seal and, using a 3mm drill (this is bigger than the diameter of the cable, but will allow the lug at the end of he cable to recess into the plate and provide a more flush fixing.), drill a hole through the canvas and mounting plate slightly forward of the existing rivet fixing.

The location of the mounting plate and existing pop rivet (obscured by the canvas) is indicated in the below pic, with the position of the new hole you will be drilling arrowed in red.

[[Image:IMG_0300-2.jpg]]

Now you have the hole drilled, I would recommend using a scalpel or stanley to gently cut the canvas at the edges of the hole you have created to make sure it is clear and the cable/lug will not foul up on it.

Use a small one to two inch section of the heat shrink tubing to protect the end of the cable. This will help prevent the individual strands of the cable getting caught in the canvas as you feed it through the edging channel. I let the tubing overhang the end by a few mm before shrinking it to fit and then cutting back to just forward of the cable end. Applying some further heat to shrink around the end.

[[Image:IMG_0305-1.JPG]]

Now remove the shim you inserted to protect the canvas and push the cable through from the hole you have created, guiding from the inside to make sure it does not catch/puncture the hood canvas.

[[Image:IMG_0301-1.JPG]]

I found that pushing the cable all the way through at this point and locating the end lug into the mounting plate BEFORE inserting through the canvas side channels was the best method. This then allowed more cable to grip to help guide it through the canvas. You may need to increase the size of the slit in the canvas to make inserting the cable easier.

[[Image:IMG_0304-1.JPG]]

(shows cable pushed through but lug not fully located into mounting plate)

Continue threading the cable through the side of the hood canvas. The through the two elastic loops towards the rear.

At this stage, you will need to cut off or remove the extra 1-2 inch tubing on the end of the cable before threading it through the rear bar of the hood.
Make sure the small retaining bolt is loosened fully to allow the cable to pass through cleanly. The head of the bolt appears to be a 1/4 inch.

[[Image:IMG_0307-1.JPG]]

At this stage, close and lock in place the hood.
Using pliers, pull the cable through fully maintaining under tension whilst you tighten the retaining bolt with your 1/4 socket.
Release the front hood clamps to allow the cable to slacken.
Unscrew the 1/4 inch retaining bolt enough to pull through approximately 5mm at retighten.

Lastly, cut the cable to final length (allow 2 inches length beyond the clamp to permit future adjustment if required) and finish with a cable end-tidy.

You hood canvas should be now nice and tight agains the hood side seals without applying too much tension and pulling the front header away from the windscreen header seal.

[[Image:IMG_0308-1.JPG]]

Good luck and enjoy the dry interior.

Matt

File:IMG 0294-1.JPG

2015-02-15T20:26:13Z

RayD:

File:IMG 0297-1.JPG

2015-02-15T20:26:00Z

RayD:

File:IMG 0298-2.jpg

2015-02-15T20:25:48Z

RayD:

File:IMG 0300-2.jpg

2015-02-15T20:25:37Z

RayD:

File:IMG 0301-1.JPG

2015-02-15T20:25:21Z

RayD:

File:IMG 0304-1.JPG

2015-02-15T20:25:01Z

RayD:

File:IMG 0305-1.JPG

2015-02-15T20:24:34Z

RayD:

File:IMG 0307-1.JPG

2015-02-15T20:24:06Z

RayD:

File:IMG 0308-1.JPG

2015-02-15T20:23:46Z

RayD:

File:Screen Shot 2015-02-15 at 17.02.33.png

2015-02-15T20:23:12Z

RayD:

Hood Tensioning cables

2015-02-15T19:34:57Z

RayD: New page: '''How to guide to repair the Hood Tensioning Cables''' Today I tackled the hood tensioner cables. Both sides had broken free at the header rail end resulting in saggy sides to the hood a...

'''How to guide to repair the Hood Tensioning Cables'''

Today I tackled the hood tensioner cables. Both sides had broken free at the header rail end resulting in saggy sides to the hood and a an ever increasing dampness under any form of inclement weather conditions. The solution has given a very taught side tension of the hod canvas which is now tight agains the hood seals.

'''Tools you will need for the job:'''

Wire cutters
Pliers (i used a multi tool)
Drill with 3 mm bit for metal
screw driver or socket with a 1/4 inch socket head
push bike brake or gear cable
2-3mm heat shrink tubing

I sources both my cable and heat shrink tubing from Amazon... The following links were what I used but there were cheaper solutions. I chose these due to their free and next day delivery with my Amazon Prime membership

Heat Shrik Tubing - £4.66
Screen Shot 2015-02-15 at 17.02.33.png

Bike Gear/Brake Cable - £5.79
IMG_0294-1.JPG

I firstly removed the existing cables and used these to measure the length of cable required and the length of heat shrink tubing needed. To remove the cable, loosen the 1/4 inch bolt at the back of the rear hood supporting bar and simply withdraw through the side channels of the hood. This can be done from either end once if the front fixing is broken.

I cut my cable to approximately 100mm longer than the existing cable to give me some room for manoeuvre. I also chose the slight thicker grade of cable from the two suppler in the pack as this was closest to the existing cable, but had more strength than the original. This would assist later when you need to push the cable back through the canvas side channels of the hood, where a thinner cable would be prone to kinking and getting caught.

As you can see, I cut the cable maintaining the end fixing that would be used on a bike. This will be used at the hood header rail end and will provide a much stronger solution that the original riveted fixing.

The next step is to cover the cable you have cut to length with the heat shrink tubing. I purchased 3mm tubing, but 2mm tubing would be fine and probably a slightly closer fit. To shrink the tubing to fit, i gently heated over a gas burner flame, using a slighter for the areas where it needed more focus.
IMG_0297-1.JPG

With the hood raised and the door open, I then went about starting the delicate process of making the repair. You will be approaching this from the front end corner of the header rail hood seal.

The original fixing is hidden by canvas and metal and is very difficult to see. You will be drilling a hole through the existing fixing plate. In order to do this, you may need to gently prise away the canvas from the inside of the car, gently pushing it away at the near outside corner. Focusing on the area marked in green on the picture below. You will shortly be drilling the area from the underside and you need to ensure you will not puncture the canvas.
IMG_0298-2.jpg

Once you have some clearance, I would suggest inserting a disposable shim of some sort between the canvas and the plate onto which it is adhered. I used a 3 mm thick bracket that had rounded edges. This will protect the canvas when you drill through from the underside.

Gently pull and hold back the corner of the rubber seal and, using a 3mm drill (this is bigger than the diameter of the cable, but will allow the lug at the end of he cable to recess into the plate and provide a more flush fixing.), drill a hole through the canvas and mounting plate slightly forward of the existing rivet fixing.

The location of the mounting plate and existing pop rivet (obscured by the canvas) is indicated in the below pic, with the position of the new hole you will be drilling arrowed in red.
IMG_0300-2.jpg

Now you have the hole drilled, I would recommend using a scalpel or stanley to gently cut the canvas at the edges of the hole you have created to make sure it is clear and the cable/lug will not foul up on it.

Use a small one to two inch section of the heat shrink tubing to protect the end of the cable. This will help prevent the individual strands of the cable getting caught in the canvas as you feed it through the edging channel. I let the tubing overhang the end by a few mm before shrinking it to fit and then cutting back to just forward of the cable end. Applying some further heat to shrink around the end.
IMG_0305-1.JPG

Now remove the shim you inserted to protect the canvas and push the cable through from the hole you have created, guiding from the inside to make sure it does not catch/puncture the hood canvas.

IMG_0301-1.JPG

I found that pushing the cable all the way through at this point and locating the end lug into the mounting plate BEFORE inserting through the canvas side channels was the best method. This then allowed more cable to grip to help guide it through the canvas. You may need to increase the size of the slit in the canvas to make inserting the cable easier.
IMG_0304-1.JPG

(shows cable pushed through but lug not fully located into mounting plate)

Continue threading the cable through the side of the hood canvas. The through the two elastic loops towards the rear.

At this stage, you will need to cut off or remove the extra 1-2 inch tubing on the end of the cable before threading it through the rear bar of the hood.
Make sure the small retaining bolt is loosened fully to allow the cable to pass through cleanly. The head of the bolt appears to be a 1/4 inch.
IMG_0307-1.JPG

At this stage, close and lock in place the hood.
Using pliers, pull the cable through fully maintaining under tension whilst you tighten the retaining bolt with your 1/4 socket.
Release the front hood clamps to allow the cable to slacken.
Unscrew the 1/4 inch retaining bolt enough to pull through approximately 5mm at retighten.

Lastly, cut the cable to final length (allow 2 inches length beyond the clamp to permit future adjustment if required) and finish with a cable end-tidy.

You hood canvas should be now nice and tight agains the hood side seals without applying too much tension and pulling the front header away from the windscreen header seal.
IMG_0308-1.JPG

Good luck and enjoy the dry interior.

Matt

Switchcraft

2013-12-30T13:27:45Z

RayD:

== Info ==

Details of electrical switches, repair and modification.

== Switch source ==

The electrical switches used in the Elan come from Vauxhall (UK GM) cars of the same era. Carltons, Astras and others can provide useful switches for the front panel to the window and door mirror switches.

In the UK, as well as scrapyards, there are several suppliers of new and old Vauxhall parts. [http://www.vauxhall-car-parts.co.uk Vauxhall Car Parts] are a good source of new switches.

== Front panel switches ==

One difference is that the Elan switches have orangey-red markings whereas the GM switches are white. The best number to check is the SWF number which appears to be unique to the switch, whereas there are often multiple GM numbers for the same switch:

[[Image:FPswRearView.jpg]] [[Image:SwitchBlanks.jpg]]

Known good part numbers are:

GM90229449 for the switch blanks

GM90213284 & GM90316822 for the hazard warning switch (white lettering rather than red) - Andrewchelt bought a new one in 2011 for £18 from Kingswood Cavaliers (Bristol) on 0117 947 6624

GM90336293 / SWF501409 for the heated seat switch

GM90336298 / SWF501413 for the heated rear window switch

GM90213292 & GM90213299 & GM90336299 / SWF501414 for the rear foglight

GM90336301 / SWF501410 for the front foglight (momentary action, so needs latch - it is possible it is internal to the switch)

Although some switches may have short knobs, but these can be swapped quite easily. One way of making a white logo match the rest of the switches is to use a red CD pen as in the heated rear windscreen switch on the left of this picture (however after some use, the red wears off and the best solution is to affix some transparent red plastic sheet):

[[image:IMG_0753_FPsw1.jpg]]

If the backlight illumination lamp or LED fail (or you want to change the colour of the LED) you will have to remove the switch as they are both soldered in. The lamp cover at the top of the switch can conveniently be pulled off providing purchase for a pair of small pliers at the position marked with the red arrow in the left hand picture. There is a retaining latch at the bottom of the switch and the easiest way of releasing this is to push a key or similar almost vertically up through the cutout in the bottom of the switch. This is shown side on in the right hand picture below for clarity: the key enters via the cutout (red arrow) and pushes up the retaining cantilever (blue arrow) thereby releasing the retaining latch (green arrow). The switch ''should'' pull out but if it does not, the switch panel may have to be released and the switch pushed from behind. The best tool I have found for doing this is an Allen key which can release the latch and pull the switch at the same time.

[[image:IMG_0983_FPsw02+.jpg]] [[image:IMG_0984_FPsw03+.jpg]]

With the switch removed, the first job is to open it up. It is held together by four retaining latches marked by red arrows in the left hand picture. An easy method is to insert two thin bladed knives at the positions shown by the green arrows to open up the switch body then to insert a third knife or small screwdriver at the position shown by the blue arrow and to use the latter as a lever to get the switch apart. The three knives are shown in action in the right hand picture:

[[image:IMG_0985_FPsw04+.jpg]] [[image:IMG_0987_FPsw05+.jpg]]

The body of the switch should pop apart and open up to reveal the lamp and LED. In this rear foglight switch, the cathode (marked by a flat on the LED body) is connected to the centre contact (pin 2) and the anode to the right hand centre contact (pin 4).

'''''NOTE: this switch has a Lotus part marking B100M6004F and does not have a 2kohm resistor {red-black-black-brown-brown} between the anode and pin 4. These resistors are shown in the [http://wikilec.9600.org/images/0/04/MJ25-14_Rear_Fog_Lamps.gif Rear foglight circuit diagram] and are present in the equivalent GM switches. This is slightly worrying as there would not appear to be a suitable place for including the resistor in the wiring harness. If you use a switch that has an integral resistor, it may mean that the LED does not illuminate very well but will not affect operation or safety.'''''

In the middle picture, the lamp and LED have both been changed. The LED is a standard 5mm diameter LED, however the original illumination lamps are about 10mm x 4mm diameter with long pigtails. As I have not been able to find a suitable source, I have adapted a 1.2W Type 286 capless lamp; these are 17mm x 5mm diameter so some modification to the switch body is necessary or the lamp sits too proud - as highlighted by the blue arrow in the middle picture. In the right hand picture, some of the plastic lamp support at the bottom of the lamp recess has been removed with a soldering iron (red arrow) which allows the lamp (blue arrow) to sit lower than the LED (green arrow).

[[image:IMG_0988_FPsw06+.jpg]] [[image:IMG_0992_FPsw07+.jpg]] [[image:IMG_0998_FPsw08+.jpg]]

The type 286 lamp (also used for dial illumination) is show together with the LED in the left hand picture and the re-assembled switch in the right hand picture. Note the carefully crafted cutaway section (green arrow) fashioned by Gerry (gee0) to allow us to see the exact position of the new lamp in relation to the switch cover (red arrow). :-D

[[image:IMG_0999_FPsw09+.jpg]] [[image:IMG_1001_FPsw10+.jpg]]

Of course, incandescent lamps are very passée these days, especially considering their deterioration in light output with age and delicate construction. Should one prefer not to have a red background illumination, then starting with the white GM switches, any colour is possible if the lamp is replaced by an LED and series resistor(s). Here is the construction of a white backlight (using a Multicomp OVL-3321 3mm mega bright white LED from [http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/ovl-3321/led-3mm-mega-bright-white/dp/1716696?Ntt=1716696 Farnell] and two 220ohm 1/8Watt resistors from [http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/mf12-220r/resistor-0-125w-1-220r/dp/9342826 Farnell]). After soldering, some additional mechanical strength was added with TakPak (or epoxy resin) and heatshrink. Make sure you get the polarity of the LED correct!

[[image:IMG_0004_LEDreplacementLamp1.jpg]] [[image:IMG_0018_LEDreplacementLamp2.jpg]]

The LEDs are available in a range of colours including green.

[[image:IMG_1028_FPsw11+.jpg]] [[image:IMG_1029_FPsw12+.jpg]]

== Window switches ==

Known good part numbers:

90 282 846 = black / dark blue - matches door mirror switch (see below left)

90 282 847 = light brown

90 282 849 = dark brown - as fitted (see below right)

It is possible to repair the window switches: Some tweezers pressed down the side of the knob will open up the body sufficiently to allow you to lever out the knob. There is an LED soldered into the top of the switch body which must be removed before prising off the back of the body. All that was wrong with mine was that the spring contacts of the switch had come off the retaining bracket. While putting it back together, I took the opportunity of replacing the yellow LED with a red LED (see below left). The LED is a standard 3mm diameter one (there is a dropper resistor integral with the switch) but make sure you get the polarity correct. These LEDs are available from any good electronic component supplier e.g. [http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?menuno=12372 Maplin].

[[image:IMG_0755cs_Window_Switches.jpg]] [[image:IMG_0762cs+_Window_Switch.jpg]]

[[image:Window_Switch_rear.jpg]]

'''The Opel part number is 1241069 for the black surround. Available from http://www.opel-classicparts.de/ in Germany'''

== Door mirror switches ==

Probable part number:

90 433 893

Source is the Vauxhall Frontera 1991-1998 and comes with the heated mirror switch and yellow LED and ''probably'' has the correct plug.

[[image:MirrorSwitch1.jpg‎]] [[image:MirrorSwitch2.jpg‎]]

----

Similar switches without the heater switch and LED were fitted to later Corsas, Vectras and Zafiras (probably with integral plug) and Saab 9-5s (1999-2005 with pigtail plug) although some may have the heater switch but no LED. Similar switches were also fitted to various GM cars in the USA e.g. Saturn L series and newer Chevys.

[[image:MirrorSwitchWithoutHeaterVauxhall.jpg‎ ]] [[image:MirrorSwitchWithoutHeaterSaab.jpg‎]]

Vauxhall & SAAB switches.

Sump Removal

2013-12-27T12:13:27Z

RayD: New page: '''A simplified explanation but this job is quite straightforward if you have some mechanical experience.''' Before you start download the Workshop Manual from the Manual Section at the t...

'''A simplified explanation but this job is quite straightforward if you have some mechanical experience.'''

Before you start download the Workshop Manual from the Manual Section at the top of the forum page. Then read the section on lower crankcase removal (= Sump Removal).

You must remove the "T shaped cross" (= Prongeron) to get at the sump.

You must also remove a section of the exhaust system.

Once jacked up, put axle stands under both jacking points under the "A" posts. Remove wheels and support the suspension with 2 more axle stands, but do not raise the suspension: just support it. Once these are in place DO NOT MOVE THEM until the job is finished.

Undo prongeron bolts one by one then remove prongeron. This turned out to be quite easy as all my bolts were reasonably free and not rusted.

Remove the front part of the exhaust after the cat box. If rusted use heat on the studs and nuts. You may need to buy new ones which are readily available.

You can now undo all the sump bolts and remove the sump. Do your repair. Clean all old sealant off sump/engine block, then replace sump with new sealant. There is no gasket (joint)

Whilst the sump and prongeron are removed, change the oil filter: access is very easy!

Replace exhaust then replace prongeron after giving it a good clean and perhaps a respray!

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=22855]

Master Cylinder

2013-10-01T20:47:24Z

RayD:

{{stub}}

== BMC Ports ==
From my notes when I did the Master Cylinder swap, which pipes go in which hole:
 
'''Master Cylinder -> Wheel''' 
Rear Upper -> Front Right 
Rear Lower -> Rear Left 
Front Upper -> Front Left 
Front Lower -> Rear Right 

[http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=148664#148664 More Info]

[[Category:Components]]

=== Also See ===
Brake Master Cylinder in the WIKI.

=== Also See ===

For Simon P's Notes on Removal of Master Cylinder

[[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=21619]]

Remove the reservoir first to give access - no need to move the PAS reservoir or the wheel arch liner.

When removing the level sensor - the little black cap flies off and disappears to the depths of the engine bay - you have the reservoir in one hand and a screwdriver in the other put a piece of tape over it to stop it flying away.

The off-side nut is accessible, but much easier is 2ft of 1/4" drive socket extension bars, threaded under the PAS reservoir (straight on to it)

The Near-side nut and pipe connections are either with a spanner in front of you, or right arm across the back of the plenum (as for the oil filter change) full reach, and very uncomfortable.

Tickover

2013-09-19T19:30:00Z

RayD:

== Tickover ==

'''''***If there is any doubt or problems with setting the tickover, then the [[Base_Timing]] should be checked***'''''

'''Vacuum Pipes'''

Considering high revs can be caused by a split, or detached vacuum pipe it’s probably best to check these first. You can get an indication of a vacuum problem by taking a pipe off while the engine is running at tickover – the revs should rise, if not, there’s already a leak.

The revs should be the same in '''‘normal’''' and '''‘service mode’'''

'''To enter Service Mode'''

Putting the paperclip in... ([[Check_Engine_Light_Problems|Shorting terminal A and B of the (ALDL) Assembly Line Diagnostic Link]])... while the engine is running at operating temperature puts the car into “service mode” (CO Adjustment Mode)

'''To make an adjustment'''

Locate the idle adjustment screw on the top of the throttle body. Have a flat screwdriver handy. With the engine up to temperature and running, put the paperclip in. If there’s a problem with the base tickover it will rise or fall as the clip contact is made. Adjust to 950RPM – rev the engine slowly to 2000 and back – check and adjust the revs if necessary – remove the clip - rev the engine slowly to 2000 and back – if it’s still 950RPM the job is done, if not, repeat the process. Only make the adjustment with the clip in.

The adjustment is 1½ turns back from fully in to get 950RPM (on Ray's and Gazza's at least)

Turn anticlockwise to increase the revs ... screwing outwards ... opening the valve.

[[Image:Adj2.jpg]]

In order to prevent the adjustment moving on its own over time, here's a simple modification using an ordinary tap washer and a small screw.

[[Image:Idle_adjust.jpg]]

It is also worth checking the throttle cable. Reference Lotus Service Notes section EC11 para. 20 "Slacken the throttle cable adjuster nuts at the plenum abutment bracket. Hold the quadrant fully closed and pull back the outer throttle cable. Adjust locknut B to obtain a clearance between the nut and abutment bracket of 3mm then push the adjuster against the bracket and tighten locknut A".

[[Image:EC11-20a.gif]] [[Image:EC11-20b.gif]]

There has also been an occasion when a fast idle was caused by the earth wire from the injectors to the manifold being loose, located just above the alternator.

[[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=22593 See here ]]

Engine oil

2011-10-19T18:32:52Z

RayD:

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11127&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Also see LEC…]

* The original Lotus Service notes recommends 3.5 litres including filter change of 10W/30 SF or SG, 15W/40 SF or SG, Mobil One 5W/50 SG

* If it were a new car the oil choice would be straight forward, just follow the manufacturer’s recommendation. Unfortunately the Lotus recommendation is 17 years old and oil has moved on a bit.

== What the numbers mean… 10W/40 etc ==

* The numbers show the relationship between modern multi grade oils and the SAE single grades.

While your lawnmower engine, being small, slow running, and used mainly when it’s warm, will run happily on SAE 30, a car engine needs something thin enough to pump instantly to the camshaft when cold, but thick enough to maintain the pressure when hot.

10W 40 means its starts from cold with the same flowing characteristics as a SAE 10 single grade oil, but rather than thinning as the temperature rises as an SAE 10 would, it thins no more than a SAE 40. Similarly a 5W 50 starts off as a 5 when the ambient temperature is -18°C and doesn’t thin anymore than a SAE 50 by the time the oil is boiling.

You might wonder why you would ever need a 0W, it’s the same as a 5W with an extra bit of something that keeps it pourable under even worse conditions.

We used to consider Duckham’s 20W 50 as being a thick oil and now we have fully synthetic 10W 60 being recommended. Fortunately the synthetic oils flow better generally, so the comparison is not exact.

In the middle of the UK 10W-40 would be a good choice. 5W-30 would be more appropriate for Norway and 15W-50 for North Africa. Then there are track days…

== Some of the things said on the subject of engine oil. ==

* Castrol say:

Changing the oil every 6 months Magnatec 10W-40 SS would do a good job. Doing any track days, EDGE 10W-60 FS would offer better performance and protection.

For the extra cost they recommend EDGE 10W-60 FS anyway, but do the oil change once a year for low mileage cars, as it will easily do the mileage.

They also recommend EDGE Turbo Diesel 5W-40 and EDGE 5W-30

* On reading some of the posts in early February 2008 Castrol added…

It seems that everyone uses different oil and each are happy so in theory you can use what you like!! Lots of oils will work - but the question is, which one works the best? At the end of the day, everyone will have their favourite, and everyone will have an opinion, but as long as everyone feels they are using what's best for them - great.

Regarding the "don't use a xW-60, but an xW- 50 is ok" - the difference between a 50 and a 60 at 100 degrees is 2.5 centistokes ( i.e. not much ) whereas an xW-40W is around 13 centistokes so quite a bit thinner !

The Formula RS has been replaced by the EDGE Sport 10W-60 which is Castrol's ultimate high performance oil for high powered and tuned engines - We also produce EDGE 10W-60 which is a retail version of TWS Motorsport , a specific BMW formulation for their "M" series engines ( the only oil BMW recommend for the M series for ultimate performance and protection )

Looking at my specifications lists Lotus are now recommending as an initial viscosity, a 10W-60 for Élan Se and S2 (89 – 95) with a note “MINIMUM high temperature viscosity of 50 to 60”

For temperate climates – the note says 10W-30 to 5W-50

Castrol offer a 10W-60 because of our extensive knowledge and experience with high performance engines (take the BMW F1 team cars we lubricate as an example) and we feel that this product offers the best high performance option, based on protection rather than just efficiency.

We also recommend this oil for TVR, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati etc – We haven't had any issues at all with its use that I am aware of.

* ESM says:

Fully synthetic oils are the best by some distance. Friction losses in engines drops by around 4% with a synthetic oil - this gives more power and more economy. They also are the most effective at limiting wear - which is why many engines are best run in with a non-synthetic.

Some older engines (I mean older, I don't mean late 80s) need a more viscous oil because the bearing clearances are larger. Chris Foulds doesn't like synthetics too much largely because of this.

Different oils swell/shrink seals differently. So if you have a borderline seal. One oil may be worse than another for loss through that seal. Which oil minimises your loss may vary depending on which seal causes the leak because all seals aren't all of the same composition. Oil formulation is scarily basic when it comes to seal compatibility; they are formulated with a mixture of elements known to cause either seal shrinkage or swell which are balanced to break even(ish). So worse oil loss isn't necessarily a synthetic vs semi or non-synthetic oil issue more a formulation to formulation issue (if Mobil 1 gives you issues another synthetic 0W40 oil might be better).

Synthetic oils can achieve low cold viscosities. So HVLs will pressurise faster with them, although any drips from leaky seals will be worse for the same reason. I'd certainly go 0W for choice. I prefer a W40 because it will give greater engine protection than a W30 (as a result of its higher viscosity) and the last approval Lotus issued was for a 0W40 not a 0W30. That's not to say a W30 won't be ok and it will incur less in the way of viscous losses but I'd say the Elan's engine is from the W40 oil technology era and so I stick with that because clearances etc are likely to have been designed with that level of viscosity in mind.

Engines run with synthetic oils are cleaner, if you put synthetic oil in an engine previously run on non-synthetic you can dislodge a lot of gunge so run a short first oil/filter change interval if you switch.

* Amsoil says:

To use any 60 grade oil in these engines is crazy. This is the thickest grade of engine oil there is. Whilst we sell a 60 grade its confined to pre war Harley Davidsons and nitro drag cars whose superchargers force the fuel past the rings (if they have them) and into the oil therby diluting it; so they start thick to end up with something that will let the engine survive.
If you are tracking your car and the temperatures are so high that the use of a 60 grade oil means that its effectively a 30 or 40 at these temperatures then please ask yourselves about the efficiency of the rad or oil coolers (if fitted) Bottom line is get the temperatures down and use the correct grade. The engine oil is meant to be an indespensible part of the engines system rather than being used as a prop. The problem with thick oil is that it causes more friction / pumping losses which in itself creats extra heat , robs power and efficiency and can actually lead to oil starvation when an oil pump cavitates.
Edge is a good product but please stick to what the manufactures originally specified. The improvements in oil which mainly refer to the appearance of full synthetics, have resulted in very much stonger and longerlasting products. Amsoils products are at least 3-5 times the film strength of mineral oils and this strength allows the use of thinner oils to advantage.
Not too sure how a synthetic oil can be thinner than a mineral oil? If it where it would just be graded differently so that it would be the same , if that makes sense.

* And...

Be a bit careful with oils that have a gap between the 2 numbers of 40 or even more. (ie 0w-40 5w-50 etc) These are generally 'weak' oils that have additives (VI's) viscocity improvers to stretch the difference between cold and hot thickness. The VI's resist the thinning effects of heat so the 5w-50 is actually a 5 grade oil that with the added VI's doesnt thin down like it should and when new can maintain a 50 grade hot. The VI's are long molecule chains and as such are litterally chopped up and broken by the piston rings and engine heat. They then cannot stop the natural thinning, and the oil that you thought was thick is now no longer. You are better off with a quality 20w-50 unless you wish to change the oil often.

== On the subject of high mileage engines ==

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php...28&highlight=1 Also see here]

* Here’s what Castrol had to say.

If the engine was very dirty, and had not had regular oil changes, and the engine has a bit of wear - then it is possible where there could be some carbon deposits built up around the valve guide seals and piston rings where this carbon is actually providing a final seal - if an engine oil with good detergent properties is used, then over time it can clean away the deposits and you could get some extra usage - but you wouldn't see this straight away.
A more likely scenario could be that the oil is oxidised so it is thicker - when you change the oil, the new oil will be thinner and would also show up any wear - especially is it a synthetic which tend to be thinner than the equivalent mineral oils.
If in doubt then a semi synthetic would probably be better bet - detergents in oil don't necessarily "clean" the engine, but stop dirt sticking to it, and hold it in the oil so when it's changed the dirt is flushed away.

From this you could assume for high mileage engines that have always been running on semi synthetic oil it may be best to stick with it.

== What LEC members are using… ==

* Gareth: Changed from 10W/30 to 10W/40

* Paul: Duckhams 10W/40 to Castrol Edge Sport 0W/40 found a slight leak, going back to 10W-40

* Muley, Jim: I’ve Been using Mobil 0W/40 but switched to the Castrol Edge 0W/40 as the car had nearly 70,000 miles. Now Mobil 5W/40

* Paul P: Castrol RS 0W/60 FS 110,000miles

* Simon P: Put 0W FS in - Made the valve lifters noisy so switched back to 10W its quiet again (10W?)

* Kmckmc: Shell 5W/40 - Castrol FORMULA RS 10W/50 - Mobile One 5W/50 - Selenia 10W/60 - Shell Ultra Helix 5W/40 - Fuchs Titan Super Syn 5W/50

* Elanlover: From "unknown" to Amsoil synthetic Euro spec 5W/40 - engine and tappets much quieter

* ScottJ: Halfords 5W/40 FS since purchase at 115,000 till now at 142,000.

* L.G: Shell 5W/40 FS to Mobil 15W/50 MS(mineral) back to Shell 5W/40 FS because oil pressure light stayed on for a split second after starting the engine. Now back to normal.

* Josler: Mobil One 0W/40. Turbo. Complained of noise. Changed to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 SS

* Johnny: 15W/50 FS (Make?)

* LGM: Valvoline VR1 Racing 10W/30 FS Used Mobile 0W/40 FS with good results. Tried Castrol 5W/30 FS but found lifters were clattering for awhile.

* The Bard: Mobil 5W/30 FS

* Ekapol: From SS Castrol 5W/30 to FS Mobil One 10W/30 engine is much quieter.

* Enright: Mobil One 0W/40 FS

* Oliver: Elf LDX 5W/40 The HVL's seem quieter than they used to with Mobil One 0w-40. Doesn't appear to burn any either (87k miles).

* Rambo: Shell Helix Ultra 5W/40

* Ultimatt: Reverting back to Mobil One 0W/40 FS

* markVasey: From Mobil 15W/50 to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 - N/A (still burning oil)

* Rip: Edge Sport 10W-60 1990 SE Turbo 74000 miles

* RayD: Valvoline Syn Power 5W/50 FS
... to Valvoline VR1 Racing 5W/50 FS ... to Q8 Techno 5W/30 FS ... to Q8 V Long Life 5W 30 FS ... 48000 miles

* Dico: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 FS 44,000 miles, Turbo Purchase car 4 years ago at 30,000 miles. Changed oil and filter every 3000 miles.

* Sy: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 70,000 - 110,000 miles, SE Turbo
Changed engine about 3,000 miles ago because old engine was burning oil regardless of type.

* Clemo: Redline Racing oil. 5W/30 FS
Full engine rebuild 6000 miles ago. NA now reading 116000. changing oil and filter every spring . Covering about 900 miles a year. Using Redline MTL gearbox oil.

* Martin R: Silkolene 10w/50

* Specky: Mobil Super S 10W/40( .....Edit.... very noisy lifters..Looking for an Alternative)

* Steve A: Mobil One 0W/40 52,000 miles

* Dermotbell: Castrol Edge 10W/60

* Monty: Mainly used Mobil 0w/40 and Ocasionly Halfords 5w/40 but Pinky is using a wee bit of oil. So Just done a service with Comma Motorsports full synthetic 5w/50 and K & N oil filter.

* Paza1: Unknown oil with Lotus filter, Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic with Lotus filter, then Mobil 1 0w/40 with Lotus filter. Update, lifters too noisey, back to Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic.

* mnemonix: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50

* bobbrown: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50

* nicowalker: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50

* ashm: Castrol Edge TD 5W-40, K&N filter

* tigerdog: Mobil 1 (US) 0w-40. Noisy lifters, low oil pressure with hot engine -> Lubro-Moly (Liqui-Moly) 5W-40 full synthetic; no longer available in US -> Lubro-Moly "Energy" 0W-40. Full synthetic; base viscosity is slightly higher than Mobil 1 0W-40. Lifters quiet, no oil pressure issues. Readily available at NAPA.

Engine oil

2011-10-19T18:29:34Z

RayD:

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11127&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Also see LEC…]

* The original Lotus Service notes recommends 3.5 litres including filter change of 10W/30 SF or SG, 15W/40 SF or SG, Mobil One 5W/50 SG

* If it were a new car the oil choice would be straight forward, just follow the manufacturer’s recommendation. Unfortunately the Lotus recommendation is 17 years old and oil has moved on a bit.

== What the numbers mean… 10W/40 etc ==

* The numbers show the relationship between modern multi grade oils and the SAE single grades.

While your lawnmower engine, being small, slow running, and used mainly when it’s warm, will run happily on SAE 30, a car engine needs something thin enough to pump instantly to the camshaft when cold, but thick enough to maintain the pressure when hot.

10W 40 means its starts from cold with the same flowing characteristics as a SAE 10 single grade oil, but rather than thinning as the temperature rises as an SAE 10 would, it thins no more than a SAE 40. Similarly a 5W 50 starts off as a 5 when the ambient temperature is -18°C and doesn’t thin anymore than a SAE 50 by the time the oil is boiling.

You might wonder why you would ever need a 0W, it’s the same as a 5W with an extra bit of something that keeps it pourable under even worse conditions.

We used to consider Duckham’s 20W 50 as being a thick oil and now we have fully synthetic 10W 60 being recommended. Fortunately the synthetic oils flow better generally, so the comparison is not exact.

In the middle of the UK 10W-40 would be a good choice. 5W-30 would be more appropriate for Norway and 15W-50 for North Africa. Then there are track days…

== Some of the things said on the subject of engine oil. ==

* Castrol say:

Changing the oil every 6 months Magnatec 10W-40 SS would do a good job. Doing any track days, EDGE 10W-60 FS would offer better performance and protection.

For the extra cost they recommend EDGE 10W-60 FS anyway, but do the oil change once a year for low mileage cars, as it will easily do the mileage.

They also recommend EDGE Turbo Diesel 5W-40 and EDGE 5W-30

* On reading some of the posts in early February 2008 Castrol added…

It seems that everyone uses different oil and each are happy so in theory you can use what you like!! Lots of oils will work - but the question is, which one works the best? At the end of the day, everyone will have their favourite, and everyone will have an opinion, but as long as everyone feels they are using what's best for them - great.

Regarding the "don't use a xW-60, but an xW- 50 is ok" - the difference between a 50 and a 60 at 100 degrees is 2.5 centistokes ( i.e. not much ) whereas an xW-40W is around 13 centistokes so quite a bit thinner !

The Formula RS has been replaced by the EDGE Sport 10W-60 which is Castrol's ultimate high performance oil for high powered and tuned engines - We also produce EDGE 10W-60 which is a retail version of TWS Motorsport , a specific BMW formulation for their "M" series engines ( the only oil BMW recommend for the M series for ultimate performance and protection )

Looking at my specifications lists Lotus are now recommending as an initial viscosity, a 10W-60 for Élan Se and S2 (89 – 95) with a note “MINIMUM high temperature viscosity of 50 to 60”

For temperate climates – the note says 10W-30 to 5W-50

Castrol offer a 10W-60 because of our extensive knowledge and experience with high performance engines (take the BMW F1 team cars we lubricate as an example) and we feel that this product offers the best high performance option, based on protection rather than just efficiency.

We also recommend this oil for TVR, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati etc – We haven't had any issues at all with its use that I am aware of.

* ESM says:

Fully synthetic oils are the best by some distance. Friction losses in engines drops by around 4% with a synthetic oil - this gives more power and more economy. They also are the most effective at limiting wear - which is why many engines are best run in with a non-synthetic.

Some older engines (I mean older, I don't mean late 80s) need a more viscous oil because the bearing clearances are larger. Chris Foulds doesn't like synthetics too much largely because of this.

Different oils swell/shrink seals differently. So if you have a borderline seal. One oil may be worse than another for loss through that seal. Which oil minimises your loss may vary depending on which seal causes the leak because all seals aren't all of the same composition. Oil formulation is scarily basic when it comes to seal compatibility; they are formulated with a mixture of elements known to cause either seal shrinkage or swell which are balanced to break even(ish). So worse oil loss isn't necessarily a synthetic vs semi or non-synthetic oil issue more a formulation to formulation issue (if Mobil 1 gives you issues another synthetic 0W40 oil might be better).

Synthetic oils can achieve low cold viscosities. So HVLs will pressurise faster with them, although any drips from leaky seals will be worse for the same reason. I'd certainly go 0W for choice. I prefer a W40 because it will give greater engine protection than a W30 (as a result of its higher viscosity) and the last approval Lotus issued was for a 0W40 not a 0W30. That's not to say a W30 won't be ok and it will incur less in the way of viscous losses but I'd say the Elan's engine is from the W40 oil technology era and so I stick with that because clearances etc are likely to have been designed with that level of viscosity in mind.

Engines run with synthetic oils are cleaner, if you put synthetic oil in an engine previously run on non-synthetic you can dislodge a lot of gunge so run a short first oil/filter change interval if you switch.

* Amsoil says:

To use any 60 grade oil in these engines is crazy. This is the thickest grade of engine oil there is. Whilst we sell a 60 grade its confined to pre war Harley Davidsons and nitro drag cars whose superchargers force the fuel past the rings (if they have them) and into the oil therby diluting it; so they start thick to end up with something that will let the engine survive.
If you are tracking your car and the temperatures are so high that the use of a 60 grade oil means that its effectively a 30 or 40 at these temperatures then please ask yourselves about the efficiency of the rad or oil coolers (if fitted) Bottom line is get the temperatures down and use the correct grade. The engine oil is meant to be an indespensible part of the engines system rather than being used as a prop. The problem with thick oil is that it causes more friction / pumping losses which in itself creats extra heat , robs power and efficiency and can actually lead to oil starvation when an oil pump cavitates.
Edge is a good product but please stick to what the manufactures originally specified. The improvements in oil which mainly refer to the appearance of full synthetics, have resulted in very much stonger and longerlasting products. Amsoils products are at least 3-5 times the film strength of mineral oils and this strength allows the use of thinner oils to advantage.
Not too sure how a synthetic oil can be thinner than a mineral oil? If it where it would just be graded differently so that it would be the same , if that makes sense.

* And...

Be a bit careful with oils that have a gap between the 2 numbers of 40 or even more. (ie 0w-40 5w-50 etc) These are generally 'weak' oils that have additives (VI's) viscocity improvers to stretch the difference between cold and hot thickness. The VI's resist the thinning effects of heat so the 5w-50 is actually a 5 grade oil that with the added VI's doesnt thin down like it should and when new can maintain a 50 grade hot. The VI's are long molecule chains and as such are litterally chopped up and broken by the piston rings and engine heat. They then cannot stop the natural thinning, and the oil that you thought was thick is now no longer. You are better off with a quality 20w-50 unless you wish to change the oil often.

== On the subject of high mileage engines ==

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php...28&highlight=1 Also see here]

* Here’s what Castrol had to say.

If the engine was very dirty, and had not had regular oil changes, and the engine has a bit of wear - then it is possible where there could be some carbon deposits built up around the valve guide seals and piston rings where this carbon is actually providing a final seal - if an engine oil with good detergent properties is used, then over time it can clean away the deposits and you could get some extra usage - but you wouldn't see this straight away.
A more likely scenario could be that the oil is oxidised so it is thicker - when you change the oil, the new oil will be thinner and would also show up any wear - especially is it a synthetic which tend to be thinner than the equivalent mineral oils.
If in doubt then a semi synthetic would probably be better bet - detergents in oil don't necessarily "clean" the engine, but stop dirt sticking to it, and hold it in the oil so when it's changed the dirt is flushed away.

From this you could assume for high mileage engines that have always been running on semi synthetic oil it may be best to stick with it.

== What LEC members are using… ==

* Gareth: Changed from 10W/30 to 10W/40

* Paul: Duckhams 10W/40 to Castrol Edge Sport 0W/40 found a slight leak, going back to 10W-40

* Muley, Jim: I’ve Been using Mobil 0W/40 but switched to the Castrol Edge 0W/40 as the car had nearly 70,000 miles. Now Mobil 5W/40

* Paul P: Castrol RS 0W/60 FS 110,000miles

* Simon P: Put 0W FS in - Made the valve lifters noisy so switched back to 10W its quiet again (10W?)

* Kmckmc: Shell 5W/40 - Castrol FORMULA RS 10W/50 - Mobile One 5W/50 - Selenia 10W/60 - Shell Ultra Helix 5W/40 - Fuchs Titan Super Syn 5W/50

* Elanlover: From "unknown" to Amsoil synthetic Euro spec 5W/40 - engine and tappets much quieter

* ScottJ: Halfords 5W/40 FS since purchase at 115,000 till now at 142,000.

* L.G: Shell 5W/40 FS to Mobil 15W/50 MS(mineral) back to Shell 5W/40 FS because oil pressure light stayed on for a split second after starting the engine. Now back to normal.

* Josler: Mobil One 0W/40. Turbo. Complained of noise. Changed to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 SS

* Johnny: 15W/50 FS (Make?)

* LGM: Valvoline VR1 Racing 10W/30 FS Used Mobile 0W/40 FS with good results. Tried Castrol 5W/30 FS but found lifters were clattering for awhile.

* The Bard: Mobil 5W/30 FS

* Ekapol: From SS Castrol 5W/30 to FS Mobil One 10W/30 engine is much quieter.

* Enright: Mobil One 0W/40 FS

* Oliver: Elf LDX 5W/40 The HVL's seem quieter than they used to with Mobil One 0w-40. Doesn't appear to burn any either (87k miles).

* Rambo: Shell Helix Ultra 5W/40

* Ultimatt: Reverting back to Mobil One 0W/40 FS

* markVasey: From Mobil 15W/50 to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 - N/A (still burning oil)

* Rip: Edge Sport 10W-60 1990 SE Turbo 74000 miles

* RayD: Valvoline Syn Power 5W/50 FS, to Valvoline VR1 Racing 5W/50 FS 40,000 miles, SE Turbo ... Changed to Q8 Techno 5W/30 FS ... Changed to Q8 V Long Life 5W 30 FS

* Dico: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 FS 44,000 miles, Turbo Purchase car 4 years ago at 30,000 miles. Changed oil and filter every 3000 miles.

* Sy: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 70,000 - 110,000 miles, SE Turbo
Changed engine about 3,000 miles ago because old engine was burning oil regardless of type.

* Clemo: Redline Racing oil. 5W/30 FS
Full engine rebuild 6000 miles ago. NA now reading 116000. changing oil and filter every spring . Covering about 900 miles a year. Using Redline MTL gearbox oil.

* Martin R: Silkolene 10w/50

* Specky: Mobil Super S 10W/40( .....Edit.... very noisy lifters..Looking for an Alternative)

* Steve A: Mobil One 0W/40 52,000 miles

* Dermotbell: Castrol Edge 10W/60

* Monty: Mainly used Mobil 0w/40 and Ocasionly Halfords 5w/40 but Pinky is using a wee bit of oil. So Just done a service with Comma Motorsports full synthetic 5w/50 and K & N oil filter.

* Paza1: Unknown oil with Lotus filter, Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic with Lotus filter, then Mobil 1 0w/40 with Lotus filter. Update, lifters too noisey, back to Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic.

* mnemonix: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50

* bobbrown: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50

* nicowalker: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50

* ashm: Castrol Edge TD 5W-40, K&N filter

* tigerdog: Mobil 1 (US) 0w-40. Noisy lifters, low oil pressure with hot engine -> Lubro-Moly (Liqui-Moly) 5W-40 full synthetic; no longer available in US -> Lubro-Moly "Energy" 0W-40. Full synthetic; base viscosity is slightly higher than Mobil 1 0W-40. Lifters quiet, no oil pressure issues. Readily available at NAPA.

Tickover

2010-03-15T10:39:36Z

RayD:

== Tickover ==

'''''***If there is any doubt or problems with setting the tickover, then the [[Base_Timing]] should be checked***'''''

'''Vacuum Pipes'''

Considering high revs can be caused by a split, or detached vacuum pipe it’s probably best to check these first. You can get an indication of a vacuum problem by taking a pipe off while the engine is running at tickover – the revs should rise, if not, there’s already a leak.

The revs should be the same in '''‘normal’''' and '''‘service mode’'''

'''To enter Service Mode'''

Putting the paperclip in... (Shorting terminal A and B of the (ALDL) Assembly Line Diagnostic Link)... while the engine is running at operating temperature puts the car into “service mode” (CO Adjustment Mode)

'''To make an adjustment'''

Locate the idle adjustment screw on the top of the throttle body. Have a flat screwdriver handy. With the engine up to temperature and running, put the paperclip in. If there’s a problem with the base tickover it will rise or fall as the clip contact is made. Adjust to 950RPM – rev the engine slowly to 2000 and back – check and adjust the revs if necessary – remove the clip - rev the engine slowly to 2000 and back – if it’s still 950RPM the job is done, if not, repeat the process. Only make the adjustment with the clip in.

The adjustment is 1½ turns back from fully in to get 950RPM (on Ray's and Gazza's at least)

Turn anticlockwise to increase the revs ... screwing outwards ... opening the valve.

[[Image:Adj2.jpg]]

In order to prevent the adjustment moving on its own over time, here's a simple modification using an ordinary tap washer and a small screw.

[[Image:Idle_adjust.jpg]]

It is also worth checking the throttle cable. Reference Lotus Service Notes section EC11 para. 20 "Slacken the throttle cable adjuster nuts at the plenum abutment bracket. Hold the quadrant fully closed and pull back the outer throttle cable. Adjust locknut B to obtain a clearance between the nut and abutment bracket of 3mm then push the adjuster against the bracket and tighten locknut A".

[[Image:EC11-20a.gif]] [[Image:EC11-20b.gif]]

Practice Area / Title Edit

2010-01-08T20:45:51Z

RayD:

Could someone with the necessary authority remove this page and title.

Thank you
Ray

Engine oil

2009-12-19T16:49:15Z

RayD:

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11127&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Also see LEC…]

* The original Lotus Service notes recommends 3.5 litres including filter change of 10W/30 SF or SG, 15W/40 SF or SG, Mobil One 5W/50 SG

* If it were a new car the oil choice would be straight forward, just follow the manufacturer’s recommendation. Unfortunately the Lotus recommendation is 17 years old and oil has moved on a bit.

== What the numbers mean… 10W/40 etc ==

* The numbers show the relationship between modern multi grade oils and the SAE single grades.

While your lawnmower engine, being small, slow running, and used mainly when it’s warm, will run happily on SAE 30, a car engine needs something thin enough to pump instantly to the camshaft when cold, but thick enough to maintain the pressure when hot.

10W 40 means its starts from cold with the same flowing characteristics as a SAE 10 single grade oil, but rather than thinning as the temperature rises as an SAE 10 would, it thins no more than a SAE 40. Similarly a 5W 50 starts off as a 5 when the ambient temperature is -18°C and doesn’t thin anymore than a SAE 50 by the time the oil is boiling.

You might wonder why you would ever need a 0W, it’s the same as a 5W with an extra bit of something that keeps it pourable under even worse conditions.

We used to consider Duckham’s 20W 50 as being a thick oil and now we have fully synthetic 10W 60 being recommended. Fortunately the synthetic oils flow better generally, so the comparison is not exact.

In the middle of the UK 10W-40 would be a good choice. 5W-30 would be more appropriate for Norway and 15W-50 for North Africa. Then there are track days…

== Some of the things said on the subject of engine oil. ==

* Castrol say:

Changing the oil every 6 months Magnatec 10W-40 SS would do a good job. Doing any track days, EDGE 10W-60 FS would offer better performance and protection.

For the extra cost they recommend EDGE 10W-60 FS anyway, but do the oil change once a year for low mileage cars, as it will easily do the mileage.

They also recommend EDGE Turbo Diesel 5W-40 and EDGE 5W-30

* On reading some of the posts in early February 2008 Castrol added…

It seems that everyone uses different oil and each are happy so in theory you can use what you like!! Lots of oils will work - but the question is, which one works the best? At the end of the day, everyone will have their favourite, and everyone will have an opinion, but as long as everyone feels they are using what's best for them - great.

Regarding the "don't use a xW-60, but an xW- 50 is ok" - the difference between a 50 and a 60 at 100 degrees is 2.5 centistokes ( i.e. not much ) whereas an xW-40W is around 13 centistokes so quite a bit thinner !

The Formula RS has been replaced by the EDGE Sport 10W-60 which is Castrol's ultimate high performance oil for high powered and tuned engines - We also produce EDGE 10W-60 which is a retail version of TWS Motorsport , a specific BMW formulation for their "M" series engines ( the only oil BMW recommend for the M series for ultimate performance and protection )

Looking at my specifications lists Lotus are now recommending as an initial viscosity, a 10W-60 for Élan Se and S2 (89 – 95) with a note “MINIMUM high temperature viscosity of 50 to 60”

For temperate climates – the note says 10W-30 to 5W-50

Castrol offer a 10W-60 because of our extensive knowledge and experience with high performance engines (take the BMW F1 team cars we lubricate as an example) and we feel that this product offers the best high performance option, based on protection rather than just efficiency.

We also recommend this oil for TVR, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati etc – We haven't had any issues at all with its use that I am aware of.

* ESM says:

Fully synthetic oils are the best by some distance. Friction losses in engines drops by around 4% with a synthetic oil - this gives more power and more economy. They also are the most effective at limiting wear - which is why many engines are best run in with a non-synthetic.

Some older engines (I mean older, I don't mean late 80s) need a more viscous oil because the bearing clearances are larger. Chris Foulds doesn't like synthetics too much largely because of this.

Different oils swell/shrink seals differently. So if you have a borderline seal. One oil may be worse than another for loss through that seal. Which oil minimises your loss may vary depending on which seal causes the leak because all seals aren't all of the same composition. Oil formulation is scarily basic when it comes to seal compatibility; they are formulated with a mixture of elements known to cause either seal shrinkage or swell which are balanced to break even(ish). So worse oil loss isn't necessarily a synthetic vs semi or non-synthetic oil issue more a formulation to formulation issue (if Mobil 1 gives you issues another synthetic 0W40 oil might be better).

Synthetic oils can achieve low cold viscosities. So HVLs will pressurise faster with them, although any drips from leaky seals will be worse for the same reason. I'd certainly go 0W for choice. I prefer a W40 because it will give greater engine protection than a W30 (as a result of its higher viscosity) and the last approval Lotus issued was for a 0W40 not a 0W30. That's not to say a W30 won't be ok and it will incur less in the way of viscous losses but I'd say the Elan's engine is from the W40 oil technology era and so I stick with that because clearances etc are likely to have been designed with that level of viscosity in mind.

Engines run with synthetic oils are cleaner, if you put synthetic oil in an engine previously run on non-synthetic you can dislodge a lot of gunge so run a short first oil/filter change interval if you switch.

* Amsoil says:

To use any 60 grade oil in these engines is crazy. This is the thickest grade of engine oil there is. Whilst we sell a 60 grade its confined to pre war Harley Davidsons and nitro drag cars whose superchargers force the fuel past the rings (if they have them) and into the oil therby diluting it; so they start thick to end up with something that will let the engine survive.
If you are tracking your car and the temperatures are so high that the use of a 60 grade oil means that its effectively a 30 or 40 at these temperatures then please ask yourselves about the efficiency of the rad or oil coolers (if fitted) Bottom line is get the temperatures down and use the correct grade. The engine oil is meant to be an indespensible part of the engines system rather than being used as a prop. The problem with thick oil is that it causes more friction / pumping losses which in itself creats extra heat , robs power and efficiency and can actually lead to oil starvation when an oil pump cavitates.
Edge is a good product but please stick to what the manufactures originally specified. The improvements in oil which mainly refer to the appearance of full synthetics, have resulted in very much stonger and longerlasting products. Amsoils products are at least 3-5 times the film strength of mineral oils and this strength allows the use of thinner oils to advantage.
Not too sure how a synthetic oil can be thinner than a mineral oil? If it where it would just be graded differently so that it would be the same , if that makes sense.

* And...

Be a bit careful with oils that have a gap between the 2 numbers of 40 or even more. (ie 0w-40 5w-50 etc) These are generally 'weak' oils that have additives (VI's) viscocity improvers to stretch the difference between cold and hot thickness. The VI's resist the thinning effects of heat so the 5w-50 is actually a 5 grade oil that with the added VI's doesnt thin down like it should and when new can maintain a 50 grade hot. The VI's are long molecule chains and as such are litterally chopped up and broken by the piston rings and engine heat. They then cannot stop the natural thinning, and the oil that you thought was thick is now no longer. You are better off with a quality 20w-50 unless you wish to change the oil often.

== On the subject of high mileage engines ==

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php...28&highlight=1 Also see here]

* Here’s what Castrol had to say.

If the engine was very dirty, and had not had regular oil changes, and the engine has a bit of wear - then it is possible where there could be some carbon deposits built up around the valve guide seals and piston rings where this carbon is actually providing a final seal - if an engine oil with good detergent properties is used, then over time it can clean away the deposits and you could get some extra usage - but you wouldn't see this straight away.
A more likely scenario could be that the oil is oxidised so it is thicker - when you change the oil, the new oil will be thinner and would also show up any wear - especially is it a synthetic which tend to be thinner than the equivalent mineral oils.
If in doubt then a semi synthetic would probably be better bet - detergents in oil don't necessarily "clean" the engine, but stop dirt sticking to it, and hold it in the oil so when it's changed the dirt is flushed away.

From this you could assume for high mileage engines that have always been running on semi synthetic oil it may be best to stick with it.

== What LEC members are using… ==

* Gareth: Changed from 10W/30 to 10W/40

* Paul: Duckhams 10W/40 to Castrol Edge Sport 0W/40 found a slight leak, going back to 10W-40

* Muley, Jim: I’ve Been using Mobil 0W/40 but switched to the Castrol Edge 0W/40 as the car had nearly 70,000 miles. Now Mobil 5W/40

* Paul P: Castrol RS 0W/60 FS 110,000miles

* Simon P: Put 0W FS in - Made the valve lifters noisy so switched back to 10W its quiet again (10W?)

* Kmckmc: Shell 5W/40 - Castrol FORMULA RS 10W/50 - Mobile One 5W/50 - Selenia 10W/60 - Shell Ultra Helix 5W/40 - Fuchs Titan Super Syn 5W/50

* Elanlover: From "unknown" to Amsoil synthetic Euro spec 5W/40 - engine and tappets much quieter

* ScottJ: Halfords 5W/40 FS since purchase at 115,000 till now at 142,000.

* L.G: Shell 5W/40 FS to Mobil 15W/50 MS(mineral) back to Shell 5W/40 FS because oil pressure light stayed on for a split second after starting the engine. Now back to normal.

* Josler: Mobil One 0W/40. Turbo. Complained of noise. Changed to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 SS

* Johnny: 15W/50 FS (Make?)

* LGM: Valvoline VR1 Racing 10W/30 FS Used Mobile 0W/40 FS with good results. Tried Castrol 5W/30 FS but found lifters were clattering for awhile.

* The Bard: Mobil 5W/30 FS

* Ekapol: From SS Castrol 5W/30 to FS Mobil One 10W/30 engine is much quieter.

* Enright: Mobil One 0W/40 FS

* Oliver: Elf LDX 5W/40 The HVL's seem quieter than they used to with Mobil One 0w-40. Doesn't appear to burn any either (87k miles).

* Rambo: Shell Helix Ultra 5W/40

* Ultimatt: Reverting back to Mobil One 0W/40 FS

* markVasey: From Mobil 15W/50 to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 - N/A (still burning oil)

* Rip: Edge Sport 10W-60 1990 SE Turbo 74000 miles

* RayD: Valvoline Syn Power 5W/50 FS, to Valvoline VR1 Racing 5W/50 FS 40,000 miles, SE Turbo ... Changed to Q8 Techno 5W/30 FS.

* Dico: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 FS 44,000 miles, Turbo Purchase car 4 years ago at 30,000 miles. Changed oil and filter every 3000 miles.

* Sy: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 70,000 - 110,000 miles, SE Turbo
Changed engine about 3,000 miles ago because old engine was burning oil regardless of type.

* Clemo: Redline Racing oil. 5W/30 FS
Full engine rebuild 6000 miles ago. NA now reading 116000. changing oil and filter every spring . Covering about 900 miles a year. Using Redline MTL gearbox oil.

* Martin R: Silkolene 10w/50

* Specky: Mobil Super S 10W/40( .....Edit.... very noisy lifters..Looking for an Alternative)

* Steve A: Mobil One 0W/40 52,000 miles

* Dermotbell: Castrol Edge 10W/60

* Monty: Mainly used Mobil 0w/40 and Ocasionly Halfords 5w/40 but Pinky is using a wee bit of oil. So Just done a service with Comma Motorsports full synthetic 5w/50 and K & N oil filter.

* Paza1: Unknown oil with Lotus filter, Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic with Lotus filter, then Mobil 1 0w/40 with Lotus filter. Update, lifters too noisey, back to Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic.

* mnemonix: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50

* bobbrown: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50

* nicowalker: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50

Suspension OEM

2009-11-03T19:23:20Z

RayD:

'''NORMALLY ASPIRATED'''

Front Spring / Damper Assembly: F100C0043F Yel / Yel / White

Front Spring: A100C0087H Yel / Yel / White

Front Damper: Original number C100C6015H R/B F100C6015F (S2 Type)

The 'Replaced By' number agrees with Specky's number off the new assembly damper F100C6015.

Rear Spring / Damper assembly: Same as Row / SE F100D0030F Grn / Yel / White
R/B J100D0030J Grn / Yel / white (S2 type)

Rear Spring: Same as Row / SE / S2 B100D0071F Grn / Yel / White Possibly Spidan (GKN) 55653

Rear Damper: Same as Row / SE /S2 C100D6011H R/B E100D6011F (S2 type)

Everything except the front spring is the same as S2 setup.

'''FEDERAL'''

Front spring/damper assembly: C100C0123F Blue / Yel / Orange

Front Spring: A100C0126H Blue / Yel / Orange

Front damper: B100C6029H

Rear Spring / Damper Assembly: B100D0083F Red / Yel / Orange

Rear Spring: A100D0082H Red / Yel / Orange

Rear Damper: B100D6025H

So the whole setup is different to NA / RowSE / S2

'''ROW SE'''

Front Spring/Damper Assembly: F100C0077F Yel/Yel/Grn

Front Spring: B100C0086F Yel / Yel / Grn (Same part number and colours as S2) Possibly Spidan (GKN) number 55652 or Monroe SP1337

Front Damper: Original number C100C6015H R/B F100C6015F (S2 Type)

Rear Spring / Damper assembly: F100D0030F Grn / Yel / white R/B J100D0030J Grn/Yel/White (S2 type)

Rear Spring: Same as S2 B100D0071F Grn / Yel / White Possibly Spidan (GKN) 55653

Rear Damper: C100D6011H R/B E100D6011F (S2 type)

It appears the Row / SE setup maybe replaced entirely by the S2 setup

'''S2'''

Front Spring/Damper Assembly: H100C0077J Yel / Yel / Grn

Front Spring: B100C0086F Yel / Yel / Grn
Possibly Spidan (GKN) 55652 or Monroe SP1337

Front Damper: F100C6015F

Rear Spring/Damper Assembly: J100D0030J Grn / Yel / White

Rear Spring: B100D0071F Possibly Spidan (GKN) 55653

Rear Damper: E100D6011F

Thanks to all for their efforts so far. If anyone has any S2 dampers (particularly rear) they can read numbers off please let us know. Tony (Saska)See Here[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=15480&start=20]

Here are the numbers for the S2 rear damper as they appear on the shock. If anyone locates some new ones please contact me asap as ive pulled the damper of my daily driver to get these numbers...Marcus_uk

C100D6011H - Made in England - 8116 2960 4HB

Suspension OEM

2009-11-01T22:00:07Z

RayD:

'''NORMALLY ASPIRATED'''

Front Spring / Damper Assembly: F100C0043F Yel / Yel / White

Front Spring: A100C0087H Yel / Yel / White

Front Damper: Original number C100C6015H R/B F100C6015F (S2 Type)

The 'Replaced By' number agrees with Specky's number off the new assembly damper F100C6015.

Rear Spring / Damper assembly: Same as Row / SE F100D0030F Grn / Yel / White
R/B J100D0030J Grn / Yel / white (S2 type)

Rear Spring: Same as Row / SE / S2 B100D0071F Grn / Yel / White Possibly Spidan (GKN) 55653

Rear Damper: Same as Row / SE /S2 C100D6011H R/B E100D6011F (S2 type)

Everything except the front spring is the same as S2 setup.

'''FEDERAL'''

Front spring/damper assembly: C100C0123F Blue / Yel / Orange

Front Spring: A100C0126H Blue / Yel / Orange

Front damper: B100C6029H

Rear Spring / Damper Assembly: B100D0083F Red / Yel / Orange

Rear Spring: A100D0082H Red / Yel / Orange

Rear Damper: B100D6025H

So the whole setup is different to NA / RowSE / S2

'''ROW SE'''

Front Spring/Damper Assembly: F100C0077F Yel/Yel/Grn

Front Spring: B100C0086F Yel / Yel / Grn (Same part number and colours as S2) Possibly Spidan (GKN) number 55652 or Monroe SP1337

Front Damper: Original number C100C6015H R/B F100C6015F (S2 Type)

Rear Spring / Damper assembly: F100D0030F Grn / Yel / white R/B J100D0030J Grn/Yel/White (S2 type)

Rear Spring: Same as S2 B100D0071F Grn / Yel / White Possibly Spidan (GKN) 55653

Rear Damper: C100D6011H R/B E100D6011F (S2 type)

It appears the Row / SE setup maybe replaced entirely by the S2 setup

'''S2'''

Front Spring/Damper Assembly: H100C0077J Yel / Yel / Grn

Front Spring: B100C0086F Yel / Yel / Grn
Possibly Spidan (GKN) 55652 or Monroe SP1337

Front Damper: F100C6015F

Rear Spring/Damper Assembly: J100D0030J Grn / Yel / White

Rear Spring: B100D0071F Possibly Spidan (GKN) 55653

Rear Damper: E100D6011F

Thanks to all for their efforts so far. If anyone has any S2 dampers (particularly rear) they can read numbers off please let us know. Tony (Saska)[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=15480&start=20]

Suspension OEM

2009-11-01T21:59:27Z

RayD:

'''NORMALLY ASPIRATED'''

Front Spring / Damper Assembly: F100C0043F Yel / Yel / White

Front Spring: A100C0087H Yel / Yel / White

Front Damper: Original number C100C6015H R/B F100C6015F (S2 Type)

The 'Replaced By' number agrees with Specky's number off the new assembly damper F100C6015.

Rear Spring / Damper assembly: Same as Row / SE F100D0030F Grn / Yel / White
R/B J100D0030J Grn / Yel / white (S2 type)

Rear Spring: Same as Row / SE / S2 B100D0071F Grn / Yel / White Possibly Spidan (GKN) 55653

Rear Damper: Same as Row / SE /S2 C100D6011H R/B E100D6011F (S2 type)

Everything except the front spring is the same as S2 setup.

'''FEDERAL'''

Front spring/damper assembly: C100C0123F Blue / Yel / Orange

Front Spring: A100C0126H Blue / Yel / Orange

Front damper: B100C6029H

Rear Spring / Damper Assembly: B100D0083F Red / Yel / Orange

Rear Spring: A100D0082H Red / Yel / Orange

Rear Damper: B100D6025H

So the whole setup is different to NA / RowSE / S2

'''ROW SE'''

Front Spring/Damper Assembly: F100C0077F Yel/Yel/Grn

Front Spring: B100C0086F Yel / Yel / Grn (Same part number and colours as S2) Possibly Spidan (GKN) number 55652 or Monroe SP1337

Front Damper: Original number C100C6015H R/B F100C6015F (S2 Type)

Rear Spring / Damper assembly: F100D0030F Grn / Yel / white R/B J100D0030J Grn/Yel/White (S2 type)

Rear Spring: Same as S2 B100D0071F Grn / Yel / White Possibly Spidan (GKN) 55653

Rear Damper: C100D6011H R/B E100D6011F (S2 type)

It appears the Row / SE setup maybe replaced entirely by the S2 setup

'''S2'''

Front Spring/Damper Assembly: H100C0077J Yel / Yel / Grn

Front Spring: B100C0086F Yel / Yel / Grn
Possibly Spidan (GKN) 55652 or Monroe SP1337

Front Damper: F100C6015F

Rear Spring/Damper Assembly: J100D0030J Grn / Yel / White

Rear Spring: B100D0071F Possibly Spidan (GKN) 55653

Rear Damper: E100D6011F

Thanks to all for their efforts so far. If anyone has any S2 dampers (particularly rear) they can read numbers off please let us know. Tony (Saska)[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=15480&start=20]

Practice Area

2009-10-27T13:25:19Z

RayD: Undo revision 1989 by RayD (Talk)

#REDIRECT [[Practice Area / Title Edit]]

Practice Area

2009-10-27T12:04:41Z

RayD: Removing all content from page

Practice Area / Title Edit

2009-10-27T11:58:24Z

RayD: Practice Area moved to Practice Area / Title Edit: For practice and testing purposes

== '''For practicing your Wiki skills.''' ==

== Sign in and Click Edit ==

=== how do you change colour of the words ===

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=149310#149310 Here's the answer from Al]

===[['''Can you get a full list of pics already uploaded''']]===

[http://wikilec.9600.org/index.php/Special:Imagelist Here's the image list]

'''''Go to Upload file then click on "list of uploaded files"'''''

[http://wikilec.9600.org/index.php? Got it}

[[Media:Example.ogg]]

[this link won't work]

[[Image:Example.jpg]]

== LEC BUYS THE RIGHTS TO THE M100 Elan ==

Practice Area

2009-10-27T11:58:24Z

RayD: Practice Area moved to Practice Area / Title Edit: For practice and testing purposes

#REDIRECT [[Practice Area / Title Edit]]

Compression test

2009-10-25T20:00:53Z

RayD:

Compression test values for reference.

"Compression mods" includes any work that might have altered the stock compression ratio, including custom pistons or rods, head skim or spacers/shims.

{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" align="center"
! user
! year
! model
! age
! mileage
! warm/cold
! wet/dry
! pressures
! strokes to max
! compression mods
|-
| ashm
| 1991
| SE Turbo
| 18
| 59k
| warm
| dry
| 170/170/165/165
| 4/4/5/5
| none
|}

{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" align="center"
! user
! year
! model
! age
! mileage
! warm/cold
! wet/dry
! pressures
! strokes to max
! compression mods
|-
| Monty
| 1990
| SE Turbo
| 19
| 84k
| warm
| dry
| 160/150/155/160
| 5 to 6
| Throttle fully open, Head skimmed
|}

{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" align="center"
! user
! year
! model
! age
! mileage
! warm/cold
! wet/dry
! pressures
! strokes to max
! compression mods
|-
| Dico
| 1993
| SE Turbo
| 16
| 47k
| warm
| dry
| 160/155/155/160
| 5 to 6
| Throttle fully open
|}

Monty: Test done with engine up to running temp, Throttle fully open, all spark plugs removed. Engine turned over approx 6 revolutions per each test.
Used compression tester from Screwfix
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/16856/Van-Car-Accessories/Mechanics-Tools/Compression-Tester?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Van%20and%20Car%20Accessories-_-Compression%20Tester#

[[Image:monty.jpg]]

File:Monty.jpg

2009-10-25T19:58:13Z

RayD:

Tickover

2009-10-04T17:36:15Z

RayD:

== Tickover ==

The revs should be the same in '''‘normal’''' and '''‘service mode’'''

'''To enter Service Mode'''

Putting the paperclip in... (Shorting terminal A and B of the (ALDL) Assembly Line Diagnostic Link)... while the engine is running at operating temperature puts the car into “service mode” (CO Adjustment Mode)

'''To make an adjustment'''

Locate the idle adjustment screw on the top of the throttle body. Have a flat screwdriver handy. With the engine up to temperature and running, put the paperclip in. If there’s a problem with the base tickover it will rise or fall as the clip contact is made. Adjust to 950RPM – rev the engine slowly to 2000 and back – check and adjust the revs if necessary – remove the clip - rev the engine slowly to 2000 and back – if it’s still 950RPM the job is done, if not, repeat the process. Only make the adjustment with the clip in.

The adjustment is 1½ turns back from fully in to get 950RPM (on Ray's and Gazza's at least)

Turn anticlockwise to increase the revs ... screwing outwards ... opening the valve.

[[Image:Adj2.jpg]]

In order to prevent the adjustment moving on its own over time, here's a simple modification using an ordinary tap washer and a small screw.

[[Image:Idle_adjust.jpg]]

It is also worth checking the throttle cable. Reference Lotus Service Notes section EC11 para. 20 "Slacken the throttle cable adjuster nuts at the plenum abutment bracket. Hold the quadrant fully closed and pull back the outer throttle cable. Adjust locknut B to obtain a clearance between the nut and abutment bracket of 3mm then push the adjuster against the bracket and tighten locknut A".

[[Image:EC11-20a.gif]] [[Image:EC11-20b.gif]]

Tickover

2009-08-08T08:53:46Z

RayD:

== Tickover ==

The revs should be the same in '''‘normal’''' and '''‘service mode’'''

'''To enter Service Mode'''

Putting the paperclip in... (Shorting terminal A and B of the (ALDL) Assembly Line Diagnostic Link)... while the engine is running at operating temperature puts the car into “service mode” (CO Adjustment Mode)

'''To make an adjustment'''

Locate the idle adjustment screw on the top of the throttle body. Have a flat screwdriver handy. With the engine up to temperature and running, put the paperclip in. If there’s a problem with the base tickover it will rise or fall as the clip contact is made. Adjust to 950RPM – rev the engine slowly to 2000 and back – check and adjust the revs if necessary – remove the clip - rev the engine slowly to 2000 and back – if it’s still 950RPM the job is done, if not, repeat the process. Only make the adjustment with the clip in.

The adjustment is 1½ turns out at 950RPM (on mine)

[[Image:Adj2.jpg]]

In order to prevent the adjustment moving on its own over time, here's a simple modification using an ordinary tap washer and a small screw.

[[Image:Idle_adjust.jpg]]

It is also worth checking the throttle cable. Reference Lotus Service Notes section EC11 para. 20 "Slacken the throttle cable adjuster nuts at the plenum abutment bracket. Hold the quadrant fully closed and pull back the outer throttle cable. Adjust locknut B to obtain a clearance between the nut and abutment bracket of 3mm then push the adjuster against the bracket and tighten locknut A".

[[Image:EC11-20a.gif]] [[Image:EC11-20b.gif]]

Engine oil

2009-07-17T20:17:31Z

RayD:

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11127&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Also see LEC…]

* The original Lotus Service notes recommends 3.5 litres including filter change of 10W/30 SF or SG, 15W/40 SF or SG, Mobil One 5W/50 SG

* If it were a new car the oil choice would be straight forward, just follow the manufacturer’s recommendation. Unfortunately the Lotus recommendation is 17 years old and oil has moved on a bit.

== What the numbers mean… 10W/40 etc ==

* The numbers show the relationship between modern multi grade oils and the SAE single grades.

While your lawnmower engine, being small, slow running, and used mainly when it’s warm, will run happily on SAE 30, a car engine needs something thin enough to pump instantly to the camshaft when cold, but thick enough to maintain the pressure when hot.

10W 40 means its starts from cold with the same flowing characteristics as a SAE 10 single grade oil, but rather than thinning as the temperature rises as an SAE 10 would, it thins no more than a SAE 40. Similarly a 5W 50 starts off as a 5 when the ambient temperature is -18°C and doesn’t thin anymore than a SAE 50 by the time the oil is boiling.

You might wonder why you would ever need a 0W, it’s the same as a 5W with an extra bit of something that keeps it pourable under even worse conditions.

We used to consider Duckham’s 20W 50 as being a thick oil and now we have fully synthetic 10W 60 being recommended. Fortunately the synthetic oils flow better generally, so the comparison is not exact.

In the middle of the UK 10W-40 would be a good choice. 5W-30 would be more appropriate for Norway and 15W-50 for North Africa. Then there are track days…

== Some of the things said on the subject of engine oil. ==

* Castrol say:

Changing the oil every 6 months Magnatec 10W-40 SS would do a good job. Doing any track days, EDGE 10W-60 FS would offer better performance and protection.

For the extra cost they recommend EDGE 10W-60 FS anyway, but do the oil change once a year for low mileage cars, as it will easily do the mileage.

They also recommend EDGE Turbo Diesel 5W-40 and EDGE 5W-30

* On reading some of the posts in early February 2008 Castrol added…

It seems that everyone uses different oil and each are happy so in theory you can use what you like!! Lots of oils will work - but the question is, which one works the best? At the end of the day, everyone will have their favourite, and everyone will have an opinion, but as long as everyone feels they are using what's best for them - great.

Regarding the "don't use a xW-60, but an xW- 50 is ok" - the difference between a 50 and a 60 at 100 degrees is 2.5 centistokes ( i.e. not much ) whereas an xW-40W is around 13 centistokes so quite a bit thinner !

The Formula RS has been replaced by the EDGE Sport 10W-60 which is Castrol's ultimate high performance oil for high powered and tuned engines - We also produce EDGE 10W-60 which is a retail version of TWS Motorsport , a specific BMW formulation for their "M" series engines ( the only oil BMW recommend for the M series for ultimate performance and protection )

Looking at my specifications lists Lotus are now recommending as an initial viscosity, a 10W-60 for Élan Se and S2 (89 – 95) with a note “MINIMUM high temperature viscosity of 50 to 60”

For temperate climates – the note says 10W-30 to 5W-50

Castrol offer a 10W-60 because of our extensive knowledge and experience with high performance engines (take the BMW F1 team cars we lubricate as an example) and we feel that this product offers the best high performance option, based on protection rather than just efficiency.

We also recommend this oil for TVR, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati etc – We haven't had any issues at all with its use that I am aware of.

* ESM says:

Fully synthetic oils are the best by some distance. Friction losses in engines drops by around 4% with a synthetic oil - this gives more power and more economy. They also are the most effective at limiting wear - which is why many engines are best run in with a non-synthetic.

Some older engines (I mean older, I don't mean late 80s) need a more viscous oil because the bearing clearances are larger. Chris Foulds doesn't like synthetics too much largely because of this.

Different oils swell/shrink seals differently. So if you have a borderline seal. One oil may be worse than another for loss through that seal. Which oil minimises your loss may vary depending on which seal causes the leak because all seals aren't all of the same composition. Oil formulation is scarily basic when it comes to seal compatibility; they are formulated with a mixture of elements known to cause either seal shrinkage or swell which are balanced to break even(ish). So worse oil loss isn't necessarily a synthetic vs semi or non-synthetic oil issue more a formulation to formulation issue (if Mobil 1 gives you issues another synthetic 0W40 oil might be better).

Synthetic oils can achieve low cold viscosities. So HVLs will pressurise faster with them, although any drips from leaky seals will be worse for the same reason. I'd certainly go 0W for choice. I prefer a W40 because it will give greater engine protection than a W30 (as a result of its higher viscosity) and the last approval Lotus issued was for a 0W40 not a 0W30. That's not to say a W30 won't be ok and it will incur less in the way of viscous losses but I'd say the Elan's engine is from the W40 oil technology era and so I stick with that because clearances etc are likely to have been designed with that level of viscosity in mind.

Engines run with synthetic oils are cleaner, if you put synthetic oil in an engine previously run on non-synthetic you can dislodge a lot of gunge so run a short first oil/filter change interval if you switch.

* Amsoil says:

To use any 60 grade oil in these engines is crazy. This is the thickest grade of engine oil there is. Whilst we sell a 60 grade its confined to pre war Harley Davidsons and nitro drag cars whose superchargers force the fuel past the rings (if they have them) and into the oil therby diluting it; so they start thick to end up with something that will let the engine survive.
If you are tracking your car and the temperatures are so high that the use of a 60 grade oil means that its effectively a 30 or 40 at these temperatures then please ask yourselves about the efficiency of the rad or oil coolers (if fitted) Bottom line is get the temperatures down and use the correct grade. The engine oil is meant to be an indespensible part of the engines system rather than being used as a prop. The problem with thick oil is that it causes more friction / pumping losses which in itself creats extra heat , robs power and efficiency and can actually lead to oil starvation when an oil pump cavitates.
Edge is a good product but please stick to what the manufactures originally specified. The improvements in oil which mainly refer to the appearance of full synthetics, have resulted in very much stonger and longerlasting products. Amsoils products are at least 3-5 times the film strength of mineral oils and this strength allows the use of thinner oils to advantage.
Not too sure how a synthetic oil can be thinner than a mineral oil? If it where it would just be graded differently so that it would be the same , if that makes sense.

* And...

Be a bit careful with oils that have a gap between the 2 numbers of 40 or even more. (ie 0w-40 5w-50 etc) These are generally 'weak' oils that have additives (VI's) viscocity improvers to stretch the difference between cold and hot thickness. The VI's resist the thinning effects of heat so the 5w-50 is actually a 5 grade oil that with the added VI's doesnt thin down like it should and when new can maintain a 50 grade hot. The VI's are long molecule chains and as such are litterally chopped up and broken by the piston rings and engine heat. They then cannot stop the natural thinning, and the oil that you thought was thick is now no longer. You are better off with a quality 20w-50 unless you wish to change the oil often.

== On the subject of high mileage engines ==

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php...28&highlight=1 Also see here]

* Here’s what Castrol had to say.

If the engine was very dirty, and had not had regular oil changes, and the engine has a bit of wear - then it is possible where there could be some carbon deposits built up around the valve guide seals and piston rings where this carbon is actually providing a final seal - if an engine oil with good detergent properties is used, then over time it can clean away the deposits and you could get some extra usage - but you wouldn't see this straight away.
A more likely scenario could be that the oil is oxidised so it is thicker - when you change the oil, the new oil will be thinner and would also show up any wear - especially is it a synthetic which tend to be thinner than the equivalent mineral oils.
If in doubt then a semi synthetic would probably be better bet - detergents in oil don't necessarily "clean" the engine, but stop dirt sticking to it, and hold it in the oil so when it's changed the dirt is flushed away.

From this you could assume for high mileage engines that have always been running on semi synthetic oil it may be best to stick with it.

== What LEC members are using… ==

* Gareth: Changed from 10W/30 to 10W/40

* Paul: Duckhams 10W/40 to Castrol Edge Sport 0W/40 found a slight leak, going back to 10W-40

* Muley, Jim: I’ve Been using Mobil 0W/40 but switched to the Castrol Edge 0W/40 as the car had nearly 70,000 miles. Now Mobil 5W/40

* Paul P: Castrol RS 0W/60 FS 110,000miles

* Simon P: Put 0W FS in - Made the valve lifters noisy so switched back to 10W its quiet again (10W?)

* Kmckmc: Shell 5W/40 - Castrol FORMULA RS 10W/50 - Mobile One 5W/50 - Selenia 10W/60 - Shell Ultra Helix 5W/40 - Fuchs Titan Super Syn 5W/50

* Elanlover: From "unknown" to Amsoil synthetic Euro spec 5W/40 - engine and tappets much quieter

* ScottJ: Halfords 5W/40 FS since purchase at 115,000 till now at 142,000.

* L.G: Shell 5W/40 FS to Mobil 15W/50 MS(mineral) back to Shell 5W/40 FS because oil pressure light stayed on for a split second after starting the engine. Now back to normal.

* Josler: Mobil One 0W/40. Turbo. Complained of noise. Changed to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 SS

* Johnny: 15W/50 FS (Make?)

* LGM: Valvoline VR1 Racing 10W/30 FS Used Mobile 0W/40 FS with good results. Tried Castrol 5W/30 FS but found lifters were clattering for awhile.

* The Bard: Mobil 5W/30 FS

* Ekapol: From SS Castrol 5W/30 to FS Mobil One 10W/30 engine is much quieter.

* Enright: Mobil One 0W/40 FS

* Oliver: Elf LDX 5W/40 The HVL's seem quieter than they used to with Mobil One 0w-40. Doesn't appear to burn any either (87k miles).

* Rambo: Shell Helix Ultra 5W/40

* Ultimatt: Reverting back to Mobil One 0W/40 FS

* markVasey: From Mobil 15W/50 to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 - N/A (still burning oil)

* Rip: Edge Sport 10W-60 1990 SE Turbo 74000 miles

* RayD: Valvoline Syn Power 5W/50 FS, to Valvoline VR1 Racing 5W/50 FS 40,000 miles, SE Turbo ... Changed to Q8 Techno 5W/30 FS.

* Dico: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 FS 44,000 miles, Turbo Purchase car 4 years ago at 30,000 miles. Changed oil and filter every 3000 miles.

* Sy: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 70,000 - 110,000 miles, SE Turbo
Changed engine about 3,000 miles ago because old engine was burning oil regardless of type.

* Clemo: Redline Racing oil. 5W/30 FS
Full engine rebuild 6000 miles ago. NA now reading 116000. changing oil and filter every spring . Covering about 900 miles a year. Using Redline MTL gearbox oil.

* Martin R: Silkolene 10w/50

* Specky: Mobil Super S 10W/40( .....Edit.... very noisy lifters..Looking for an Alternative)

* Steve A: Mobil One 0W/40 52,000 miles

* Dermotbell: Castrol Edge 10W/60

* Monty: Mainly used Mobil 0w/40 and Ocasionly Halfords 5w/40 but Pinky is using a wee bit of oil. So Just done a service with Comma Motorsports full synthetic 5w/50 and K & N oil filter.

* Paza1: Unknown oil with Lotus filter, Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic with Lotus filter, then Mobil 1 0w/40 with Lotus filter. Update, lifters too noisey, back to Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic.

* mnemonix: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50

* bobbrown: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50

Tickover

2009-05-16T14:26:18Z

RayD:

== Tickover ==

The revs should be the same in '''‘normal’''' and '''‘service mode’'''

'''To enter Service Mode'''

Putting the paperclip in... (Shorting terminal A and B of the (ALDL) Assembly Line Diagnostic Link)... while the engine is running at operating temperature puts the car into “service mode” (CO Adjustment Mode)

'''To make an adjustment'''

Locate the idle adjustment screw on the top of the throttle body. Have a flat screwdriver handy. With the engine up to temperature and running, put the paperclip in. If there’s a problem with the base tickover it will rise or fall as the clip contact is made. Adjust to 950RPM – rev the engine slowly to 2000 and back – check and adjust the revs if necessary – remove the clip - rev the engine slowly to 2000 and back – if it’s still 950RPM the job is done, if not, repeat the process. Only make the adjustment with the clip in.

[[Image:Adj2.jpg]]

In order to prevent the adjustment moving on its own over time, here's a simple modification using an ordinary tap washer and a small screw.

[[Image:Idle_adjust.jpg]]

It is also worth checking the throttle cable. Reference Lotus Service Notes section EC11 para. 20 "Slacken the throttle cable adjuster nuts at the plenum abutment bracket. Hold the quadrant fully closed and pull back the outer throttle cable. Adjust locknut B to obtain a clearance between the nut and abutment bracket of 3mm then push the adjuster against the bracket and tighten locknut A".

[[Image:EC11-20a.gif]] [[Image:EC11-20b.gif]]

Tickover

2009-05-16T13:13:41Z

RayD: New page: == Tickover == The revs should be the same in '''‘normal’''' and '''‘service mode’''' Putting the paperclip in... (Shorting terminal A and B of the (ALDL) Assembly Line Diagnost...

== Tickover ==

The revs should be the same in '''‘normal’''' and '''‘service mode’'''

Putting the paperclip in... (Shorting terminal A and B of the (ALDL) Assembly Line Diagnostic Link)... while the engine is running at operating temperature puts the car into “service mode” (CO Adjustment Mode)

Locate the idle adjustment screw on the top of the throttle body. Have a flat screwdriver handy. With the engine up to temperature and running, put the paperclip in. If there’s a problem with the base tickover it will rise or fall as the clip contact is made. Adjust to 950RPM – rev the engine slowly to 2000 and back – check and adjust the revs if necessary – remove the clip - rev the engine slowly to 2000 and back – if it’s still 950RPM the job is done, if not, repeat the process. Only make the adjustment with the clip in.

[[Image:Adj2.jpg]]

In order to prevent the adjustment moving on its own over time, here's a simple modification using an ordinary tap washer and a small screw.

[[Image:Idle_adjust.jpg]]

File:Idle adjust.jpg

2009-05-16T13:05:29Z

RayD:

File:Adj2.jpg

2009-05-16T13:02:14Z

RayD:

Releasing a sticky wastegate

2009-03-28T21:25:39Z

RayD:

== Releasing a sticky wastegate ==

The consensus of opinion on the best way of releasing the wastegate is to remove the actuation capsule. The following pictures were taken of a unit which had been removed from the engine - the turbo '''does not''' have to be removed for this operation but it makes for better photographs! The shaft to the wastegate is shown by the purple arrow, the wastegate actuation rod by the red arrow {don't worry about the threaded section, as this is non-standard}, the actuation capsule by the yellow arrow and the actuation vacuum pipe by the blue arrow.

If the turbo is on the car, then first [[Removing_the_top_turbo_heatshield|remove the top turbo heatshield]].

First job is to remove the vacuum actuation pipe (blue arrow below). Release the hose clip and slide off; if it is tight then place a large folded rag on the bodywork and lever off with a long screwdriver.

[[Image:WastegateStickingFigure1b.jpg||Turbo and wastegate mechanism]]

Removal the 3 bolts (green arrows) that secure the diaphragm bracket to the turbo impeller housing (the shiny aluminium bit).

[[Image:WastegateStickingFigure2.jpg||Turbo and wastegate mechanism]]

Ideally, remove the circlip from the bottom of the peg at the end of the actuation shaft which allows all the corrosion for be brushed off with a wire brush the reattach to the wastegate arm with plenty of Capaslip or similar and replace the circlip

This then allows you to move the whole diaphragm and rod from side to side (Wiki Wastegate Wiggle), which soon has it running silky smooth. Make sure the wastegate shaft is turned over it's full range (approximately 90°) as there is often evidence of sticking at the extremes of travel.

[[Image:WastegateStickingFigure3.jpg||Turbo and wastegate mechanism]]

There is not a consensus on whether to lubricate the wastegate shaft or not. One strong argument against is that, because of the extreme temperatures involved, most lubricants will degrade rapidly which may cause the wastegate to stick again and may even carbonise which can cause excessive wear. Any expert opinions would be gratefully received. [In the absence of expert opinion you'll have to make do with mine for the time being:
CopaSlip type of lubricant is rated to 1500°C which should be adequate - Geoff]

All that remains is to replace the three bolts and the pipe; the usual problem is getting the thread on the bottom bolt (nearest the wastegate actuator rod) started. Ideally you need to curl your arm right underneath by snaking it down past the water pump. Failing this, due to fingers like pigs' tits, a 12 year old is ideal for replacing this last bolt.

[[Image:Wiggly_bits.JPG]]
[[Category:Wastegate]]
[[Category:Turbo]]

File:Wiggly bits.JPG

2009-03-28T21:17:48Z

RayD:

Exhaust

2008-10-21T14:52:00Z

RayD:

= OEM exhaust =

[[Image:45.01A.gif|300px]]

= After Market Exhausts =

There are several options for aftermarket exhaust systems

== PECO ==

The PECO exhaust is a full (turbo back) 2.25 inch stainless system. This system was designed with the SE in mind and so does not incorporate the main cat present on the S2.

== Links ==

[http://www.peco.co.uk/ PECO]

[[Category:ReplacementParts]]

----

== Removing the rear silencer. ==

'''Observe normal safety procedures for working under the car.'''

'''''Using ramps…'''''

* Put the rear of the car on ramps.

* Make provisions to be able to jack the offside up slightly while the car is still on the ramps.

* From underneath remove the U bolt securing the silencer to the centre pipe. 13mm.

* Spray the joint with WD40 or similar.

* Separate the joint – it might be necessary to fasten the centre pipe to the nearside ramp and knock the silencer pipe over to the offside.

* The rubber hanger over the wheel arch will disconnect itself as the joint parts.

* Push the silencer forward off rear hanger, and onto the wishbone.

* Jack the offside of the car up slightly to enable the silencer to thread out of the back of the car.

* Reverse the procedure for replacing it; you may have to line the wheel arch hanger up as the joint is made.

'''''Or not…'''''

* The silencer can be removed using the same principle but from the offside - rather than underneath - just by jacking the car up at the back and removing the rear wheel. It has the added benefit of not having to jack the car up while it’s on the ramps.

Added by mnemonix

The fixing for the rear hanger is easily accessed under the carpet in the boot and is undone with a single nut. This gives you more movement below if required and can also be undone and repositioned slightly if the rear box/tail pipe is out of alignment when fitted.

Steering Wheel Removal

2008-10-20T19:53:00Z

RayD: New page: '''Steering Wheel Removal''' * 1. Remove the horn-push (bayonet fixing, push and turn about an inch anti-clockwise). * 2. Remove the horn mechanism (2 x 3mm Allen screws). * 3....

'''Steering Wheel Removal'''

* 1. Remove the horn-push (bayonet fixing, push and turn about an inch anti-clockwise).

* 2. Remove the horn mechanism (2 x 3mm Allen screws).

* 3. Undo the spade connector on the back.

* 4. Remove the sponge washer to expose 4 Allen screws - undo them to remove the wheel from the collapsible spacer (not actually necessary, but makes the next bit easier)

* 5. Undo the boss retaining nut (18mm socket)

* 6. Make up a puller - A piece of steel approximately 6mm thick, 25mm wide and about 200mm long which fits through the collapsible spacer. Drill a 12mm hole through the bar. Put a bolt through the hole with a nut on the back.

* 7. With the bar through the spacer, line up the bolt with the end of the splined steering column, and tighten the bolt, holding the nut on the back with a spanner - this pulls the bar and hence the spacer/boss away from the shaft.

* 8. You will hear when it releases! - Then simply lift off the assembly.

* 9. The Elise wheel doesn’t need the spacer, not sure about the Nardi S2 one?

* 10. Bolt the wheel directly to the boss using M6 bolts/nuts

* 11. Replace it all together; connect the horn wire spade you removed in step three, to either of the spade connectors on the new wheel. Run another wire from the other spade connector to one of the 4 bolts used to attach the new wheel to the boss (use a second nut to avoid disturbing the fastening of the wheel/boss).

Dave Pink

Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS)

2008-07-17T19:52:12Z

RayD:

Lotus part number A100E6373S is the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) which reports the engine coolant temperature to the [[ECM]]. It consists of a thermistor in a sealed package which screws into the thermostat housing.

Thermistors are negative temperature coefficient devices and from the Lotus parts manual EMK.4, the Elan has the following characteristics:

'''Temp(°C) / Resistance(ohms)'''

'''100 / 185'''

'''70 / 450'''

'''38 / 1800'''

'''20 / 3400'''

'''4 / 7500'''

'''-7 / 13500'''

'''-18 / 25000'''

'''-40 / 100700'''

This matches a thermistor with characteristics of R0=2700 ohms and Beta=3977 such as [http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/Passive+Components/Resistors,+Thermistors+&+Potentiometers/VISHAY+BC+COMPONENTS/238164055272/displayProduct.jsp?sku=1187038 this one for £1.42] but you'll need a package (~£50?) to put it in.

Having discussed this with some Esprit owners, and with reference to their parts manual EMH.4, it turns out they have the same CTS thermistor characteristics {as well as the same [[ECM]]}. Their part number is A910E6928F and is available from [http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/partsandaccessories/srchRes.asp?Car_ID=8&Type1_ID=5&srch=A910E6928F&Submit=search SJ sportscars for ~12GBP] whereas ours is [http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/partsandaccessories/srchRes.asp?Car_ID=9&Type1_ID=5&srch=A100E6373S&Submit=search closer to 50GBP]! This is unhelpful though at the present time (2008) as they are on backorder and Lotus "can't find a replacement".

[http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5287 ESM did some research] and found data for the [http://www.mindspring.com/~fierosketch/osg/coolant-sensor.html Pontiac Fiero] has the same CTS thermistor characteristics. Cross referencing with a US parts site [http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=290&PTSet=A Parts America] gives several options for the 1988 Fiero CTS. This site is useful in that you can view a part and then see which vehicles it fits. The Fiero CTS is common with the Isuzu Impulse RS and Geo Storm (as suspected but I don't think it has been proven until now) and more importantly for UK owners, a car available in the UK - the Isuzu Trooper (1986-7 with 2.3l engine and 1992-2001 with 3.2l & 3.5l V6 engines) as originally suggested by ESM.

They have been sourced from Vauxhall for ~15GBP with the ACDelco part number 25036979.

'''A quick guide to removal and refitting:'''

1) Mark position of CAS with felt-tip pen on cam cover.

2) Remove CAS by undoing the socket-head bolt and all electrical plugs (there is one underneath). Expect some oil seepage so have a clean rag ready.

3) Unplug 2 way connector from CTS. NB the temp gauge sender is the one right next to the engine block at the front and the fan switch is the one furthest away on the thermostat housing with a white plug.

4) Unscrew.

5) Watch about 2 litres of coolant widdle out over the floor.

6) Screw in new CTS.

7) Plug in.

8) Reinstall CAS, lining up your felt-tip mark.

9) Plug in all wires.

10) Check you haven't left any tools around the place, then test. It would be worthwhile having Elanscan running at this stage to verify you have a good CTS reading.

If you are a real die-hard perfectionist, you should now check the engine base timing as you will have disturbed it. It isn't a bad thing to do regularly anyway.

[[Image:Fan_Switch.jpg]]

[[Category:Components]]

Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS)

2008-07-17T11:48:01Z

RayD:

Engine oil

2008-05-07T13:59:42Z

RayD:

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11127&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Also see LEC…]

* The original Lotus Service notes recommends 3.5 litres including filter change of 10W/30 SF or SG, 15W/40 SF or SG, Mobil One 5W/50 SG

* If it were a new car the oil choice would be straight forward, just follow the manufacturer’s recommendation. Unfortunately the Lotus recommendation is 17 years old and oil has moved on a bit.

== What the numbers mean… 10W/40 etc ==

* The numbers show the relationship between modern multi grade oils and the SAE single grades.

While your lawnmower engine, being small, slow running, and used mainly when it’s warm, will run happily on SAE 30, a car engine needs something thin enough to pump instantly to the camshaft when cold, but thick enough to maintain the pressure when hot.

10W 40 means its starts from cold with the same flowing characteristics as a SAE 10 single grade oil, but rather than thinning as the temperature rises as an SAE 10 would, it thins no more than a SAE 40. Similarly a 5W 50 starts off as a 5 when the ambient temperature is -18°C and doesn’t thin anymore than a SAE 50 by the time the oil is boiling.

You might wonder why you would ever need a 0W, it’s the same as a 5W with an extra bit of something that keeps it pourable under even worse conditions.

We used to consider Duckham’s 20W 50 as being a thick oil and now we have fully synthetic 10W 60 being recommended. Fortunately the synthetic oils flow better generally, so the comparison is not exact.

In the middle of the UK 10W-40 would be a good choice. 5W-30 would be more appropriate for Norway and 15W-50 for North Africa. Then there are track days…

== Some of the things said on the subject of engine oil. ==

* Castrol say:

Changing the oil every 6 months Magnatec 10W-40 SS would do a good job. Doing any track days, EDGE 10W-60 FS would offer better performance and protection.

For the extra cost they recommend EDGE 10W-60 FS anyway, but do the oil change once a year for low mileage cars, as it will easily do the mileage.

They also recommend EDGE Turbo Diesel 5W-40 and EDGE 5W-30

* On reading some of the posts in early February 2008 Castrol added…

It seems that everyone uses different oil and each are happy so in theory you can use what you like!! Lots of oils will work - but the question is, which one works the best? At the end of the day, everyone will have their favourite, and everyone will have an opinion, but as long as everyone feels they are using what's best for them - great.

Regarding the "don't use a xW-60, but an xW- 50 is ok" - the difference between a 50 and a 60 at 100 degrees is 2.5 centistokes ( i.e. not much ) whereas an xW-40W is around 13 centistokes so quite a bit thinner !

The Formula RS has been replaced by the EDGE Sport 10W-60 which is Castrol's ultimate high performance oil for high powered and tuned engines - We also produce EDGE 10W-60 which is a retail version of TWS Motorsport , a specific BMW formulation for their "M" series engines ( the only oil BMW recommend for the M series for ultimate performance and protection )

Looking at my specifications lists Lotus are now recommending as an initial viscosity, a 10W-60 for Élan Se and S2 (89 – 95) with a note “MINIMUM high temperature viscosity of 50 to 60”

For temperate climates – the note says 10W-30 to 5W-50

Castrol offer a 10W-60 because of our extensive knowledge and experience with high performance engines (take the BMW F1 team cars we lubricate as an example) and we feel that this product offers the best high performance option, based on protection rather than just efficiency.

We also recommend this oil for TVR, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati etc – We haven't had any issues at all with its use that I am aware of.

* ESM says:

Fully synthetic oils are the best by some distance. Friction losses in engines drops by around 4% with a synthetic oil - this gives more power and more economy. They also are the most effective at limiting wear - which is why many engines are best run in with a non-synthetic.

Some older engines (I mean older, I don't mean late 80s) need a more viscous oil because the bearing clearances are larger. Chris Foulds doesn't like synthetics too much largely because of this.

Different oils swell/shrink seals differently. So if you have a borderline seal. One oil may be worse than another for loss through that seal. Which oil minimises your loss may vary depending on which seal causes the leak because all seals aren't all of the same composition. Oil formulation is scarily basic when it comes to seal compatibility; they are formulated with a mixture of elements known to cause either seal shrinkage or swell which are balanced to break even(ish). So worse oil loss isn't necessarily a synthetic vs semi or non-synthetic oil issue more a formulation to formulation issue (if Mobil 1 gives you issues another synthetic 0W40 oil might be better).

Synthetic oils can achieve low cold viscosities. So HVLs will pressurise faster with them, although any drips from leaky seals will be worse for the same reason. I'd certainly go 0W for choice. I prefer a W40 because it will give greater engine protection than a W30 (as a result of its higher viscosity) and the last approval Lotus issued was for a 0W40 not a 0W30. That's not to say a W30 won't be ok and it will incur less in the way of viscous losses but I'd say the Elan's engine is from the W40 oil technology era and so I stick with that because clearances etc are likely to have been designed with that level of viscosity in mind.

Engines run with synthetic oils are cleaner, if you put synthetic oil in an engine previously run on non-synthetic you can dislodge a lot of gunge so run a short first oil/filter change interval if you switch.

* Amsoil says:

To use any 60 grade oil in these engines is crazy. This is the thickest grade of engine oil there is. Whilst we sell a 60 grade its confined to pre war Harley Davidsons and nitro drag cars whose superchargers force the fuel past the rings (if they have them) and into the oil therby diluting it; so they start thick to end up with something that will let the engine survive.
If you are tracking your car and the temperatures are so high that the use of a 60 grade oil means that its effectively a 30 or 40 at these temperatures then please ask yourselves about the efficiency of the rad or oil coolers (if fitted) Bottom line is get the temperatures down and use the correct grade. The engine oil is meant to be an indespensible part of the engines system rather than being used as a prop. The problem with thick oil is that it causes more friction / pumping losses which in itself creats extra heat , robs power and efficiency and can actually lead to oil starvation when an oil pump cavitates.
Edge is a good product but please stick to what the manufactures originally specified. The improvements in oil which mainly refer to the appearance of full synthetics, have resulted in very much stonger and longerlasting products. Amsoils products are at least 3-5 times the film strength of mineral oils and this strength allows the use of thinner oils to advantage.
Not too sure how a synthetic oil can be thinner than a mineral oil? If it where it would just be graded differently so that it would be the same , if that makes sense.

* And...

Be a bit careful with oils that have a gap between the 2 numbers of 40 or even more. (ie 0w-40 5w-50 etc) These are generally 'weak' oils that have additives (VI's) viscocity improvers to stretch the difference between cold and hot thickness. The VI's resist the thinning effects of heat so the 5w-50 is actually a 5 grade oil that with the added VI's doesnt thin down like it should and when new can maintain a 50 grade hot. The VI's are long molecule chains and as such are litterally chopped up and broken by the piston rings and engine heat. They then cannot stop the natural thinning, and the oil that you thought was thick is now no longer. You are better off with a quality 20w-50 unless you wish to change the oil often.

== On the subject of high mileage engines ==

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php...28&highlight=1 Also see here]

* Here’s what Castrol had to say.

If the engine was very dirty, and had not had regular oil changes, and the engine has a bit of wear - then it is possible where there could be some carbon deposits built up around the valve guide seals and piston rings where this carbon is actually providing a final seal - if an engine oil with good detergent properties is used, then over time it can clean away the deposits and you could get some extra usage - but you wouldn't see this straight away.
A more likely scenario could be that the oil is oxidised so it is thicker - when you change the oil, the new oil will be thinner and would also show up any wear - especially is it a synthetic which tend to be thinner than the equivalent mineral oils.
If in doubt then a semi synthetic would probably be better bet - detergents in oil don't necessarily "clean" the engine, but stop dirt sticking to it, and hold it in the oil so when it's changed the dirt is flushed away.

From this you could assume for high mileage engines that have always been running on semi synthetic oil it may be best to stick with it.

== What LEC members are using… ==

* Gareth: Changed from 10W/30 to 10W/40

* Paul: Duckhams 10W/40 to Castrol Edge Sport 0W/40 found a slight leak, going back to 10W-40

* Muley, Jim: I’ve Been using Mobil 0W/40 but switched to the Castrol Edge 0W/40 as the car had nearly 70,000 miles. Now Mobil 5W/40

* Paul P: Castrol RS 0W/60 FS 110,000miles

* Simon P: Put 0W FS in - Made the valve lifters noisy so switched back to 10W its quiet again (10W?)

* Kmckmc: Shell 5W/40 - Castrol FORMULA RS 10W/50 - Mobile One 5W/50 - Selenia 10W/60 - Shell Ultra Helix 5W/40 - Fuchs Titan Super Syn 5W/50

* Elanlover: From "unknown" to Amsoil synthetic Euro spec 5W/40 - engine and tappets much quieter

* ScottJ: Halfords 5W/40 FS since purchase at 115,000 till now at 142,000.

* L.G: Shell 5W/40 FS to Mobil 15W/50 MS(mineral) back to Shell 5W/40 FS because oil pressure light stayed on for a split second after starting the engine. Now back to normal.

* Josler: Mobil One 0W/40. Turbo. Complained of noise. Changed to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 SS

* Johnny: 15W/50 FS (Make?)

* LGM: Valvoline VR1 Racing 10W/30 FS Used Mobile 0W/40 FS with good results. Tried Castrol 5W/30 FS but found lifters were clattering for awhile.

* The Bard: Mobil 5W/30 FS

* Ekapol: From SS Castrol 5W/30 to FS Mobil One 10W/30 engine is much quieter.

* Enright: Mobil One 0W/40 FS

* Oliver: Elf LDX 5W/40 The HVL's seem quieter than they used to with Mobil One 0w-40. Doesn't appear to burn any either (87k miles).

* Rambo: Shell Helix Ultra 5W/40

* Ultimatt: Reverting back to Mobil One 0W/40 FS

* markVasey: From Mobil 15W/50 to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 - N/A (still burning oil)

* Rip: Edge Sport 10W-60 1990 SE Turbo 74000 miles

* RayD: Valvoline Syn Power 5W/50 FS, to Valvoline VR1 Racing 5W/50 FS 40,000 miles, SE Turbo

* Dico: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 FS 44,000 miles, Turbo Purchase car 4 years ago at 30,000 miles. Changed oil and filter every 3000 miles.

* Sy: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 70,000 - 110,000 miles, SE Turbo
Changed engine about 3,000 miles ago because old engine was burning oil regardless of type.

* Clemo: Redline Racing oil. 5W/30 FS
Full engine rebuild 6000 miles ago. NA now reading 116000. changing oil and filter every spring . Covering about 900 miles a year. Using Redline MTL gearbox oil.

* Martin R: Silkolene 10w/50

* Specky: Mobil Super S 10W/40( .....Edit.... very noisy lifters..Looking for an Alternative)

* Steve A: Mobil One 0W/40 52,000 miles

* Dermotbell: Castrol Edge 10W/60

* Monty: Mainly used Mobil 0w/40 and Ocasionly Halfords 5w/40 but Pinky is using a wee bit of oil. So Just done a service with Comma Motorsports full synthetic 5w/50 and K & N oil filter.

* Paza1: Unknown oil with Lotus filter, Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic with Lotus filter, then Mobil 1 0w/40 with Lotus filter. Update, lifters too noisey, back to Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic.

MOT

2008-04-08T20:30:03Z

RayD:

== MOT Common Failures and Remedies ==

* While it’s a good idea to do all the normal checks prior to an MOT – making sure there are no bulbs out, checking the items that only get used once a year, like the horn, windscreen washers and hazard warning lights – with the Élan you need add the brakes to the list.

* They are better done in advance of the test. You’ll not only enhance the chances of it passing, but you’ll have the added benefit of a shorter stopping distance, for a while.

* For newcomers, all I did to get my rear brakes from a failure reading of 30 and 40 to a pass of 70 and 70 was to remove the pads - check the sliders were free – remove the central rubber plug from the piston to check the extent of any internal seal leaks - checked the pistons were free, the offside one turns anticlockwise/inwards (the information in the manual is looking from the back of the car) – clean the edges of the steel backing plates and the corresponding part on the callipers – take the glaze of the pads with sandpaper – and reassemble.

* You can do the same thing at the front, but include changing the inner pad to the outside and visa versa. This will even out the wear and put the slider arrangement into a new position.

----

* muley

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9566&highlight=mot+failed To view a car's MOT history]

* RayD

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9609&highlight=mot+failed Rear brakes inadequate]

* RichyP

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11467&highlight=mot+failed All four brake discs]

* dapinky

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9583&highlight=mot+failed Hazard light switch not illuminating]

[http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10096 The solution is on this thread.]

* Gazza

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10929&highlight=mot+failed Lower Steering UJ]

* Hinch

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10628&highlight=mot+failed Broken headlight]

* kevincprice

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5570&highlight=mot+failed Inner track rod end]

* nchase

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10656&highlight=mot+failed The handbrake]

* martyn roberts

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10366&highlight=mot+failed Emissions]

* Benmac

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9876&highlight=mot+failed Front brakes ]

* Russc

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9590&highlight=mot+failed Handbrake and Windscreen washer jets]

* davel

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8921&highlight=mot+failed Heavy steering]

* pit_stop

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8171&highlight=mot+failed All four brake discs]

* Andrew_Ennis

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7560&highlight=mot+failed Nearside upper ball joint]

* Hinch

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7245&highlight=mot+failed Condition of the rear disks]

* hec

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7110&highlight=mot+failed Rear wishbones and FNS bottom arm]

* Ray

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6641&highlight=mot+failed Horn]

* schurch

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6481&highlight=mot+failed Rear braking effort]

* Stef

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6020&highlight=mot+failed Rear brake discs and pads]

* PaulW

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=612&highlight=mot+failed Emissions]

* D3DSY

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10126&highlight=mot+failure Dipped beam too high]

* hec

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8539&highlight=mot+failure front brake hose]

* paulwatkins

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9012&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=gaiter Outer CV joint gaiter]

* Rushing

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=154718#154718 Rear Callipers]

MOT

2008-04-02T18:56:02Z

RayD:

== MOT Common Failures and Remedies ==

* While it’s a good idea to do all the normal checks prior to an MOT – making sure there are no bulbs out, checking the items that only get used once a year, like the horn, windscreen washers and hazard warning lights – with the Élan you need add the brakes to the list.

* They are better done in advance of the test. You’ll not only enhance the chances of it passing, but you’ll have the added benefit of a shorter stopping distance, for a while.

* For newcomers, all I did to get my rear brakes from a failure reading of 30 and 40 to a pass of 70 and 70 was to remove the pads - check the sliders were free – remove the central rubber plug from the piston to check the extent of any internal seal leaks - checked the pistons were free, the offside one turns anticlockwise/inwards (the information in the manual is looking from the back of the car) – clean the edges of the steel backing plates and the corresponding part on the callipers – take the glaze of the pads with sandpaper – and reassemble.

* You can do the same thing at the front, but include changing the inner pad to the outside and visa versa. This will even out the wear and put the slider arrangement into a new position.

----

* muley

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9566&highlight=mot+failed To view a car's MOT history]

* RayD

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9609&highlight=mot+failed Rear brakes inadequate]

* RichyP

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11467&highlight=mot+failed All four brake discs]

* dapinky

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9583&highlight=mot+failed Hazard light switch not illuminating]

* Gazza

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10929&highlight=mot+failed Lower Steering UJ]

* Hinch

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10628&highlight=mot+failed Broken headlight]

* kevincprice

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5570&highlight=mot+failed Inner track rod end]

* nchase

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10656&highlight=mot+failed The handbrake]

* martyn roberts

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10366&highlight=mot+failed Emissions]

* Benmac

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9876&highlight=mot+failed Front brakes ]

* Russc

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9590&highlight=mot+failed Handbrake and Windscreen washer jets]

* davel

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8921&highlight=mot+failed Heavy steering]

* pit_stop

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8171&highlight=mot+failed All four brake discs]

* Andrew_Ennis

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7560&highlight=mot+failed Nearside upper ball joint]

* Hinch

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7245&highlight=mot+failed Condition of the rear disks]

* hec

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7110&highlight=mot+failed Rear wishbones and FNS bottom arm]

* Ray

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6641&highlight=mot+failed Horn]

* schurch

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6481&highlight=mot+failed Rear braking effort]

* Stef

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6020&highlight=mot+failed Rear brake discs and pads]

* PaulW

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=612&highlight=mot+failed Emissions]

* D3DSY

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10126&highlight=mot+failure Dipped beam too high]

* hec

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8539&highlight=mot+failure front brake hose]

* paulwatkins

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9012&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=gaiter Outer CV joint gaiter]

* Rushing

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=154718#154718 Rear Callipers]