WikiLEC - User contributions [en]

Fuel injectors

2009-11-25T11:28:05Z

Monty: New page: This is a quick write up for upgrading the Fuel Injectors to the RC PL8 550 Injectors for the Turbo upgrade. I used the write up by David R. Meyers which is in the Upgrade link on the LEC ...

This is a quick write up for upgrading the Fuel Injectors to the RC PL8 550 Injectors for the Turbo upgrade. I used the write up by David R. Meyers which is in the Upgrade link on the LEC homepage [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/upgrade/injectorswap.htm] and as there is only one photo thought i`d post my photo`s here to help others in the future.
So i`m just going to use Daves write up with my photo`s (hope he doesn`t mine)

Tools Needed:

12mm socket

14mm socket

Socket extension

Needle-nose pliers

Die pick (i used a thin flat screwdriver)

A long, standard screwdriver

T-26 Torx bit

RC Injectors can be bought direct from [http://www.rceng.com/]

The RC PL8-550 (Bosh Style Top) compared to the stock injector

[[Image:RC PL8-550 vs Stock Injector.jpg]]

Before removing any parts, you must relive pressure form the fuel system. While the car is running, pull the fuse for the fuel pump (I tripped the Inertia switch). After it stalls, crank the engine for a few seconds to remove as much remaining fuel from the fuel rail. Then perform the following steps:

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Remove the (2) 12mm bolts holding the black plastic wire cover.

3. Remove the small wire clips that hold the plastic electrical connectors to the injectors. This is possibly the toughest part of the job. Use the die pick in conjunction with the needle-nose pliers or a standard screwdriver. Be careful of the small plastic tab at the front of the connector. Also, do not drop the clips.

[[Image:Injector wire loom clip.JPG]]

4. Slide the metal clips holding the injector to the fuel rail from left to right. Push first on the front part of the clip, then the rear with the long screwdriver.

[[Image:Injector fuel rail clip.JPG]]

[[Image:Fuel rail clip 1.JPG]]

5. Remove the fuel pressure regulator. A T-26 Torx screw and gently pry the regulator off the end of the fuel rail. It is held in by an o-ring. Mine was in there rather securely. Have an old rag underneath before removing as some gas will spill out from the rail.

[[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator 1.JPG]]

[[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator.JPG]]

6. Remove the (2) 14mm fuel rail bolts.

7. Carefully push the fuel rail up. The injectors are held in place now only by their o-rings, but they will be solidly in place. Work slow, maybe first at one end of the rail, then the other and it will pop up. (they were that solid i had to use a pry bar to remove the injectors)

8. Remove the injectors. They will still be attached either in the rail or in the intake. Either pull or *gently* pry them out. (again i had to use the pry bar to remove the injectors from the fuel rail)

Before installing new injectors, compare them to the stock injectors. Make sure the o-rings are the same size; the distance between top and bottom o-rings is the same; and overall construction is similar. If all appear fine:

1. Lightly coat the new injectors’ o-rings in motor oil to aid installation. Push the injectors into the fuel rail first.

2. Attach/slide the clips that hold the injectors onto the fuel rail.

[[Image:RC injector & clip.JPG]]

3. Carefully line up the injectors into the plenum and gently push down on the rail until the bolt holes line up.
Replace the (2) 14mm fuel rail bolts.

4. Lightly coat the fuel pressure regulator o-ring with motor oil and push into the end of the rail. Replace the Torx bolt.

5. Plug the electrical connectors onto the injectors and carefully replace the small clips.

6. Replace the wire cover and connect the (2) 12mm bolts.

7. Connect the battery.

8. Turn the ignition key to the accessory position to prime the fuel pump. Check for any leaks.
Start the car. Check for any leaks.

[[Image:RC Injectors installed.JPG]]

File:RC Injectors installed.JPG

2009-11-25T11:26:56Z

Monty:

File:RC injector & clip.JPG

2009-11-25T11:23:10Z

Monty:

File:Fuel rail clip 1.JPG

2009-11-25T11:15:14Z

Monty:

File:Fuel Pressure Regulator 1.JPG

2009-11-25T11:07:55Z

Monty:

File:Fuel Pressure Regulator.JPG

2009-11-25T11:06:19Z

Monty:

File:Injector fuel rail clip.JPG

2009-11-25T11:03:28Z

Monty:

File:Injector wire loom clip.JPG

2009-11-25T10:51:07Z

Monty:

File:RC PL8-550 vs Stock Injector.jpg

2009-11-25T10:35:04Z

Monty:

File:SNV30608.JPG

2009-11-25T10:23:35Z

Monty:

Compression test

2009-10-25T17:15:59Z

Monty:

Compression test values for reference.

"Compression mods" includes any work that might have altered the stock compression ratio, including custom pistons or rods, head skim or spacers/shims.

{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" align="center"
! user
! year
! model
! age
! mileage
! warm/cold
! wet/dry
! pressures
! strokes to max
! compression mods
|-
| ashm
| 1991
| SE Turbo
| 18
| 59k
| warm
| dry
| 170/170/165/165
| 4/4/5/5
| none
|}

{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" align="center"
! user
! year
! model
! age
! mileage
! warm/cold
! wet/dry
! pressures
! strokes to max
! compression mods
|-
| Monty
| 1990
| SE Turbo
| 19
| 84k
| warm
| dry
| 160/150/155/160
| 5 to 6
| Throttle fully open, Head skimmed
|}

{| border="1" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="5" align="center"
! user
! year
! model
! age
! mileage
! warm/cold
! wet/dry
! pressures
! strokes to max
! compression mods
|-
| Dico
| 1993
| SE Turbo
| 16
| 47k
| warm
| dry
| 160/155/155/160
| 5 to 6
| Throttle fully open
|}

Monty: Test done with engine up to running temp, Throttle fully open, all spark plugs removed. Engine turned over approx 6 revolutions per each test.
Used compression tester from Screwfix
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/16856/Van-Car-Accessories/Mechanics-Tools/Compression-Tester?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Van%20and%20Car%20Accessories-_-Compression%20Tester#

[img]http://www.screwfix.com/sfd/i/cat/52/p1162852_x.jpg[/img]