WikiLEC - User contributions [en]

ElanScan

2026-06-13T11:40:56Z

Madbilly:

ElanScan is a piece of software which interfaces with the Elan's [[ECU]] and can retrieve various real-time stats.

''13/6/26 update --[[User:Madbilly|Madbilly]] ([[User talk:Madbilly|talk]]) 12:40, 13 June 2026 (BST):''

For late Win10 and all Win11, refer to these instructions: http://www.lecinterfaces.talktalk.net/index.htm
For earlier Win10, refer to these instructions: https://d4pinky.wixsite.com/m100-documents/elanscan-etc

''On 13/6/26 I could not get the links below to work, but that could be my own computer or my ISP --[[User:Madbilly|Madbilly]] ([[User talk:Madbilly|talk]]) 12:40, 13 June 2026 (BST):''

ElanScan is available for download from [http://www.alanmcnicol.dsl.pipex.com/M100_ALDL.html ESM's old website], information on obtaining suitable interfaces is available at [http://www.lecinterfaces.talktalk.net/index.htm GeoffSmith's website].

== Preparation ==

If you think you have a problem, CHECK THE [[Base Timing|BASE TIMING]]. Provided this is correct, then proceed.

----

== Communication errors ==

''The error log reports any bad communications between the pc/ES and then car/ECU :''

=== Comm port inactive ===

The wrong communications port has been selected for ElanScan. Check in the pc hardware configuration / device manager to see which ports are present. {From bitter experience, this may also indicate a broken serial port!}.

In Windows XP go into '''Device Manager''': Right mouse on | '''My Computer''' | and select | '''Properties''' |, select the | '''Hardware''' | tab and press | '''Device Manager''' |. Expand the | '''Universal Serial Bus controllers''' | by clicking on the [+] and there should be a reference to a | '''USB serial converter''' |. Expand the | '''Ports (Com & LPT)''' | and there should be a reference to | '''USB Serial Port (COMX)''' |. The port number must be used so in ElanScan click "Setup" then "Set comm port" and select the correct number (COMX) from the list.

To check the latency, double click on | '''Ports (Com & LPT)''' | and select the | '''Port Settings''' | tab. Click the | '''Advanced''' | button and ensure that the | '''Latency Timer (msec):''' | is set to '''1'''.

[[Image:DeviceManagerWithElanScanInterface.gif|150px|Device manager with USB ElanScan Interface]]

=== Bad echo (sent: F4 56 01 B5: received: ) ===

The ECU is not responding, usually because the ignition is not turned on or the interfaces is not properly connected [Note F4 56 01 B5 relates to the Elan turbo engine only]

=== Bad echo (sent: F4 56 01 B5: received: XX XX XX XX) ===

Indicates noisy communication with the ECU, likely caused by a poor electrical connection [Note XX is the hex representation of a byte of data and there may be between one and four bytes returned depending on the problem]

=== No reply No frame start byte received ===

Probably caused by having the latency timer setting too high: In device manager (see "Comm port inactive" above), select | USB serial port | Port settings | Advanced | BM option:Latency timer (ms) | and make sure it is set to 1. See also [http://www.astb91.dsl.pipex.com/USB_Driver_Instructions.html USB driver instructions].

For Win7, the [http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/AppNotes/AN_107_AdvancedDriverOptions_AN_000073.pdf FTDI application note] on advanced device settings is helpful. Note in particular that the settings are for the "USB Serial port" (usually under Ports), rather than "USB Serial Converter" under USB. The "Ports" section may only be visible when the ElanScan cable is connected to the computer.

[[Image:DeviceManagerElanScanInterfaceAdvancedSettings.gif|150px|Device manager with advanced settings for USB ElanScan Interface]]

== User help ==

=== Change the graph display ===

[[Image:ES_Display_Parameters.gif|150px|Display parameters]]

Select the required parameter from the drop down boxes:

Primary axis data in blue

Secondary axis data in red

''Click on the picture for a full sized view''

== Lotus Fault Finder ==

[[Image:EMK_Figure_4-9.gif|150px|Fault finder]]

== Diagnoses ==

=== Baseline ES run from cold ===

Start engine from cold until the fans kick in for the second time. Thermostat opening should be apparent at ~80 to 85°C and fan switch at ~105 to 110°C.

[[Image:CoolantTemperatureFromCold.gif‎|200px|Coolant temperature rise from cold]]

=== Check the Injector pulse width ===

When hot, plot the injector pulse width vs throttle position and it should look something like this:

[[Image:Injector_pulse_width_vs_Throttle_position.gif|200px]]

''Suggestions and links to LEC until they can be migrated into the Wiki (Geoff)''

* Baseline ES run WOT in third gear

* [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10759 High idle speed]

* Stuck thermostat

* Stuck wastegate

* Idle not matching target idle : appears to be caused when TPS low is not set to 0.4V. See Wayne's data [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=18411&start=4]

* O2 sensor: For closed loop cars, from cold, the '''"CO potentiometer/Oxygen sensor?"''' trace should start at about 3V and within a couple of minutes, be oscillating between less than ~0.5V and greater than ~4V:
[[Image:HealthyO2sensorOutputFromCold.gif|150px|Display parameters]]

''Click on the picture for a full sized view''

[[Category: ElanScan]]
[[Category: ECU]]
[[Category: Diagnostics]]
[[Category: Incomplete]]

Fluids

2026-06-13T11:35:56Z

Madbilly:

Power Steering
ATF Dextron 2

Brake Fluid
any Dot4 compatible brake fluid

Clutch Fluid
Same as Brake fluid, Any Dot4 brake fluid

Coolant
Original - Shellsafe Plus (also known as Shell Antifreeze 401).
Mono-ethylene glycol min 25% concentration in demineralised water, even in hot climates as the glycol inhibits corrosion.
Higher concentrations in colder climates.

Jacking Points

2022-07-25T09:34:11Z

Madbilly: Added clarification that it is also fine to jack up directly on the bolt in the jacking point.

== Main Jacking points ==
[[Image:JackingPoints.jpg|frame|Fig 1: Elan M100 Jacking Point Locations]]
Four primary jacking points are provided on the car:
# 1 just ahead of the rear-left wheel arch
# 1 just ahead of the rear-right wheel arch
# 1 just behind the front-left wheel arch
# 1 just behind the front-right wheel arch

See Fig 1 Item 'a' for these jacking point locations.

Each body jacking point is fitted with a conical location dowel, which matches up with a hole in the vehicle's wheel changing jack.

=== Alternative Jacking Points ===

* Beneath the bolts securing the rear end of the front suspension rafts to the chasis front crossmember (See Fig 1 Item 'b')
* Beneath the rearmost pivot points of the rear suspension wishbones, bearing on the lower edges of the channel section using a suitable spreader plate (See Fig 1 Item 'c')

'''WARNING:''' On the S2-model Elan, ONLY the front jacking points (See Fig 1 Item 'a') should be used.

'''CAUTION:''' Do NOT use a jack beneath any other part of the vehicle, especially:
* Do NOT jack beneath the engine bay underframe;
* Do NOT jack beneath the rear suspension lower wishbone. Damage and/or distortion can be caused to either of these components due to incorrect jacking.

'''HINT:''' The standard outer jack points consist of a large 3/4 inch bolt under the body edge. The Lotus jack supplied in the trunk/boot has a cut-out area to fit nicely around this bolt. If you try to use a regular floor-jack to lift the car you will find it will not fit the area properly and you risk cracking the fiberglass around the jack point. A clever way around this problem is to place a 3/4 inch or larger 'socket' between the jack and jack point so it connects the two properly. Just be sure you do not need the socket you use at the jack for the job you are doing!

Clarification: Even though Lotus supplied the jack to fit around the 3/4 inch bolt it is also fine to jack directly on that bolt, see [https://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=29274&sid=da6b3da78a9e878f33b9eee71e605fa9&p=372819#p372826 the forum]

[[Category:UsefulInfo]]
[[Category:Components]]

Light motors

2017-06-13T13:11:04Z

Madbilly: /* Spares */

=== Symptoms ===

When attempting to turn-on, there’s a lot of whining, then you don’t always manage to get it up, at least not all the way, conversely, after it’s been up and shining then it’s turned-off, it goes down with a bang and the whining continues after it’s tucked back in it’s resting place. Sounds familiar ? ...

An intermittent head light motor

http://s615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/Elan_SE/?action=view&current=100_1236.mp4

=== Spares ===
The Lotus part number for a complete motor repair kit is A082M6706S.

Where to get the spares to repair your broken motors: http://www.rodneydickman.com/

Update, SJ Lotus now do a similar kit:

SJ082M0033 OVERHAUL KIT for HEADLAMP MOTORS, Includes drive rollers, gaskets, screws and instructions. Sufficient for a pair of motors.

SJ082M0034 Plastic drive gear as opposed to an upgraded rodneydickman metal vareient.

13/6/17:

- Kelvedon Lotus appear to be offering the Lotus kit at a bargain price.

- Wayne Broadley has produced a spares kit which you can order directly or via ebay:
- http://elanm100.com/web-shop
- http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Lotus-Elan-M100-SE-S2-Headlight-Motor-repair-kit-/282504480751?hash=item41c69447ef:g:PIkAAOSwezVWzu8f

What you will get in a new rodneydickman kit...

[[Image:Light Motors 1.jpg]]

[[Image:Full_light_motor.jpg‎ ]]

After removing the the Headlamp Motor from the car, it is pretty simple to remove the three screws ‘A’ (English size I recall) holding the Gear Drive Cover to access the Plastic Driven Gear which was the root of my Headlamps impotence. To remove this Gear, I found that it was necessary to raise the Motor Housing by taking the two retaining screws 'B' out and lifting the Motor about ¼ inch, at which point the Motor’s two spring-loaded Carbon Brushes step off the Commutator and come to rest on a smaller diameter section of the Motor Shaft, but at least you can now remove the Plastic Gear and begin the repair.

'''WARNING: If you remove the motor completely, make sure it is replaced in the same orientation otherwise you will end up with winking or inverse headlights - the pod will be raised when the headlight is off and will descend when the headlight is on!'''

[[Image:Light_gear.gif‎]]

The Gear is primarily comprised of three parts, the Plastic section carries the Gear Teeth and forms part of the Hub. The second part is a Die-cast assembly with an integral Shaft, and the third part is the substance that fills the space between the Die-cast ‘Clover Leaf’ and the correspondingly shaped but larger cavity inside the Plastic Hub.

Inside mine I found a granular filling not unlike Cane Sugar Crystals, both in color and form. I’m guessing that the original condition of this material was rubber-like, giving the drive mechanism some flexibility (Otherwise there would be no reason for the huge clearance between the two parts ?).

After thoroughly cleaning and de-greasing each part, I chose to use an RTV Silicone Adhesive to fill the Hub prior to re-assembling with the Shaft.

Once the adhesive has cured you can test your patience by attempting to get the Motor Housing to mate to the main Gear Housing. The tricky part here is holding the Carbon Brushes against their springs as you lower the Motor Shaft. In order to hold the Brush’s apart through an ever decreasing gap, you will need to use something that can hook the Brush connection wires, yet be no thicker than 1/8 inch. I used half of two Cotter Pins, but I should think that a Paper Clip or similar could be modified to achieve the same end.

Apart from the Carbon Brushes, the repair is very simple, and it could just save you the $170 cost for a new part.

=== Headlamp Motor Fix ===

(part 2)

First, identify which side is having trouble. They utilize the same repair kit, but the left side requires a bit more work (this has to do w/ the brush installation on the armature - I'll explain this later).

The part is in kit form -- "for repairing Ford/Chrysler power windows." I found them locally for $14.95/Kit.
Good Luck!

[[Image:TorquePinKit.jpg]]

Just read this very slowly and carefully.
It will make sense if you think about it....

LEFT SIDE:
1. Jack up vehicle / Remove wheel / Remove plastic inner
fender. The inner fender is held by (3-4) 10mm bolts
in the arch of the well and (3) Phillips #2 screws on
the underside. The inner fender can now be pulled out.

2. Open hood / Remove (2) 10mm bolts behind the
headlight housing. Be sure to count the shims/washers
under each bolt because they will fall out. Doing
this will make adjustments a lot easier!

3. Remove 10mm bolt retaining connecting rod at the
light motor. (see pic below - "Removal Top View")

[[Image:RemovalTopView.jpg]]

4. Remove (2) 8mm bolts anchoring the motor unit from
inner fender. (see pic at right - "Motor Removal")

[[Image:MotorRemoval.jpg]]

5. The motor is now free to be removed from the vehicle.

6. The motor should be disassembled on a towel - to
catch small pieces (small springs/bolts).

7. Remove the large bracket from the unit 8mm nut and
bolt. Remove the 10mm bolt on the drive arm. The arm
can be removed by clamping in a vise and taping the
center bolt with a small hammer.

8. Remove the (3) 1/4" bolts on the other side. Upon
removal of this cover - it'll reveal the mysterious
granules. Remove the (2) 1/4" bolts retaining the
housing for the Armature (Don't lose the (2) springs
behind the brushes!!!) Upon removal of the Armature
shaft -- the white plastic sprocket is free to be
removed from the housing.

9. Clean the parts with compressed air, insert the new
torque pins and re-lube the sprocket with grease. Insert
the sprocket back into the housing. (see pic below - "Torque Pins")

[[Image:TorquePins.jpg]]

10. Here's the tricky (hard) part. Get a strand of wire
- can be found in a stripped length of speaker wire
(see pic - "Torque Pins"). Holding the motor housing in
one hand / Insert the (2) springs in the slots near the
brushes. (see pic at below - "Brushes")

[[Image:Brushes.jpg]]

11. With the strand of wire / Make a loop around the
brush and insert the brush into the slot (see pic - "Brushes")
Do the same with the other side.

12. While pulling the brush back w/ the loop of
wire/Slide Armature into the housing/When fully
inserted, remove wire by pulling on one side of the
loop/Do this on the other side/Attach (2) 1/4" bolts.

13. Position sprocket cover and install (3) 1/4"
bolts/Attach large bracket to motor housing.

14. Place motor back into vehicle and install all
bolts removed (just reverse the removal procedure).

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:Components]]

Belts

2012-05-15T19:42:26Z

Madbilly: /* Timing */

== Introduction ==

{{warning|text='''WARNING - LOTUS SPARES ARE EXPENSIVE'''

Here's a just little advice to help you stretch the cost:
* The 4XE1-MT engine is an Isuzu Item.
* The 4XE1 engine is also fitted to the Isuzu Impulse.
* http://rockauto.com normally has a 5% discount. ([[Discounts|See the discounts page]])
* Don't forget the [[Cambelt_Tensioner|tensioner]], [[Cambelt_Idler|idler]] and the [[Water_Pump|water pump]].
}}

== Timing ==

Lotus A100E6170S (£49.00)

Isuzu 894429-4860 - 1" x 50 3/32" (159 Teeth)

Gates T169

ACDELCO TB169

Dayco 95169 (North America part no.) or 94197 (Europe part no.)

[[Image:Cam Belt.jpg]]
== Dayco Europe information on timing belt markings ==

There are white and yellow markings, written along the belt. I will get a photo when I can to better demonstrate how the markings appear on the belt.

White markings:

DAYCO 159 SHP PLUS 254 H ISORAN (R) 159 RHP PLUS 254 H 94197

Is the model identifier. Specifically 94197 is the part number when you're looking for a replacement belt.

Yellow markings:

06 134041
06 134042
06 134043
06 134044
06 134045

The first two digits are the year of manufacture, followed by two digits for the week then a digit for the day of the week, then there are three digits indicating the position on the production mould. So in this case the belt was made on the 4th day of the 13th week of 2006.

They recommend NOT fitting any belt that is more than ten years old. However, if a belt is fitted before the belt is ten years old then the manufacturer's service interval still holds, in the case of the Elan 5 years (60 months) or 60000 miles, whichever comes first.

== Alternator ==

Lotus A100E6031F

Isuzu 894139-0670

ACDelco & Bando Rib-Ace 4PK685 => 4 ribs K section 685mm

Gates K040270 => K section 4 ribs 27.0"

(The Gates K040285 is not fitted to our engine)

== PAS without AirCon ==

Lotus A100E6131F

Isuzu 894364-5800

ACDelco & Bando Rib-Ace 6PK945 => 6 ribs K section 945mm

(The Gates K060380 => K section 6 ribs 38.0" is not fitted to our engine)

== PAS with AirCon ==

Lotus A100E6058F (£26.06)

Isuzu part number 894362-7320

ACDelco & Bando Rib-Ace 6PK1045 => 6 ribs K section 1045mm

Gates K060415 => K section 6 ribs 41.5"

----

[http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1176162,parttype,8905 More information from RockAuto]

[http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/partsandaccessories/srchRes.asp?Car_ID=9&Type1_ID=5&srch=belt More information from SJ Lotus]

[[Category:CrossReference]]
[[Category:Components]]