WikiLEC - User contributions [en]

Category:Modifications

2009-07-31T02:36:40Z

Kmckmc: Installing a larger compressor wheel to existing RHB5 turbo unit

Turbo Hybrid turbo unit with T-bird components

Porting the wastegate

2009-05-06T08:26:20Z

Kmckmc: /* Porting the wastegate */

{{stub}}

One of the first jobs is to remove the heatshields from around the manifold and pre-cat housing.

== Top heatshield removal ==

See [[Removing_the_top_turbo_heatshield|Removing the top turbo heatshield]].

== Exhaust manifold heatshield removal ==

GS: WIP

== GS Notes ==

''Remove the top turbo oil pipe completely - banjo on top of turbo, retaining clip on right of manifold and banjo on back of engine.

''Remove the three studs from the exhaust flange and remove the gasket.

''Remove the three wastegate capsule retaining bolts, C clip on bottom of wastegate actuator and all pipes then remove the wastegate capsule complete. This aid removal and helps avoid scratching the paintwork.

''Loosen the EGR pipe clamp on the side of the thermostat housing, pull back the EGR pipe and remove gasket (if EGR is fitted of course).

''Check that everything is clear and that there is a suitable place to put the manifold/precat/turbo as it is '''very heavy'''.

''Remove the last exhaust manifold nut, gently pull the whole assembly forwards until it is clear of the studs. The left hand stud may not be clear and the manifold may be fouling the PAS bracket nut - in which case gently lever the whole assembly to the right using the PAS bracket as the fulcrum and it will be released as the hole is open to the left hand side.

''Remove ...........................

== Porting the wastegate ==

Plug cavity to turbo.

Tie back the wastegate actuator arm

Lubricate the stone and don't let it get too hot.

Periodically, clean out the debris with a toothbrush or similar.

When complete, thoroughly wash out to remove all debris - remember, it is abrasive and you don't want that in your turbo!

Clean out the pivot hole on the capsule actuation arm.

Before/After pictures:

BEFORE:
[[Image:M100BEFOREportedwastegate.jpg‎]]

AFTER:
[[Image:M100AFTER20mmported.jpg‎‎]]

== CLEAN! ==

Everything!

==Reassembly==

* Attach oil drain pipe to bottom of turbo.

* Attach water inlet/outlet pipes to turbo fitting new copper washers (12mm ID & 18mm OD x 1mm).

* Attach the small heatshields (left and right) to the exhaust manifold.

* Attach the wastegate manifold to the turbo.

* Make sure all pipes are clear (and in particular the EGR pipe ), fit the EGR gasket, fit the exhaust manifold gasket on the bolts then lower the turbo assembly into position. Angle the side by the PAS pump towards the engine and insert the slotted hole ever the stud. When the manifold studs are aligned, gently push so the exhaust manifold engages with the bolts; screw on two manifold nuts to retain the manifold loosely in position.

* Loosely fit the remaining 7 manifold nuts.

* Attach the turbo oil return pipe.

* Gently press the EGR pipe into the hole in the manifold.

* Fix the water pipe bracket, taking care to bolt though the heatshield.

* Attach the turbo water cooling pipes (top and bottom).

* Loosely clamp the oil feed banjo to the block fitting new copper washers (10mm ID & 16mm OD x 1mm) then loosely clamp the bracket onto the coolant bracket.

* '''Fill the turbo with clean oil.'''

* Fit the top banjo loosely to the turbo fitting new copper washers (10mm ID & 16mm OD x 1mm)

* Tighten the manifold nuts to the specified torque in the correct sequence. Unless you have a torque spanner, it is impossible to get a torque wrench into all nuts - pull the torque wrench at the same distance as the length of spanner you're going to use then use a pipe or rag around the spanner to make it a similar diameter to the torque wrench. You should be able to estimate the torque reasonably well - about three grunts in my case!

* Tighten both turbo oil feed banjos and the intermediate clamp.

* Fit wastegate manifold bracket to block and wastegate manifold.

* Loosely fit dipstick bracket. Loosely fit the dipstick pipe to the bracket then connect to engine. Tighten bracket and pipe.

* Fit the top (manifold ) heatshield.

* Fit the turbo outlet pipe.

* Fit the wastegate capsule - lubricate the pivot with Copaslip or similar, engage in wastegate arm, attach the pipe, fix the capsule to the turbo, clamp the pipe and attach the C clip to the wastegate arm.

* Fix the EGR to the manifold then tighten up the EGR pipe clamp.

* Attach the engine hoist bracket and fix the turbo water cooling pipe to the bracket.

* Fix the two studs at the bottom of the wastegate manifold, fit the gasket with some exhaust paste then attach the pre-cat to the manifold with two nuts. Fix the four remaining bolts and attach the pre-cat bracket to the pre-cat and block.

* Fit the lower pre-cat gasket with some exhaust paste, fit the three studs in the pre-cat (through the exhaust flange), then tighten up the nuts.

* Fit the lower turbo heatshield - fit all four bolts but only tighten up the bottom two. Remove the top two (shared) bolts as these were in place solely to make sure the holes were aligned.

* Fit the top turbo heatshield.

* Fit the oxygen sensor.

* Remove the lower (shared) bolt from the bottom turbo heatshield and fit the pre-cat heatshield.

[[Category:Incomplete]]
[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:Wastegate]]
[[Category:Turbo]]

File:M100AFTER20mmported.jpg

2009-05-06T08:21:22Z

Kmckmc:

File:M100BEFOREportedwastegate.jpg

2009-05-06T08:20:59Z

Kmckmc:

Porting the wastegate

2009-05-06T08:13:13Z

Kmckmc: /* Porting the wastegate */

{{stub}}

One of the first jobs is to remove the heatshields from around the manifold and pre-cat housing.

== Top heatshield removal ==

See [[Removing_the_top_turbo_heatshield|Removing the top turbo heatshield]].

== Exhaust manifold heatshield removal ==

GS: WIP

== GS Notes ==

''Remove the top turbo oil pipe completely - banjo on top of turbo, retaining clip on right of manifold and banjo on back of engine.

''Remove the three studs from the exhaust flange and remove the gasket.

''Remove the three wastegate capsule retaining bolts, C clip on bottom of wastegate actuator and all pipes then remove the wastegate capsule complete. This aid removal and helps avoid scratching the paintwork.

''Loosen the EGR pipe clamp on the side of the thermostat housing, pull back the EGR pipe and remove gasket (if EGR is fitted of course).

''Check that everything is clear and that there is a suitable place to put the manifold/precat/turbo as it is '''very heavy'''.

''Remove the last exhaust manifold nut, gently pull the whole assembly forwards until it is clear of the studs. The left hand stud may not be clear and the manifold may be fouling the PAS bracket nut - in which case gently lever the whole assembly to the right using the PAS bracket as the fulcrum and it will be released as the hole is open to the left hand side.

''Remove ...........................

== Porting the wastegate ==

Plug cavity to turbo.

Tie back the wastegate actuator arm

Lubricate the stone and don't let it get too hot.

Periodically, clean out the debris with a toothbrush or similar.

When complete, thoroughly wash out to remove all debris - remember, it is abrasive and you don't want that in your turbo!

Clean out the pivot hole on the capsule actuation arm.

Before/After pictures:

BEFORE:

AFTER:

== CLEAN! ==

Everything!

==Reassembly==

* Attach oil drain pipe to bottom of turbo.

* Attach water inlet/outlet pipes to turbo fitting new copper washers (12mm ID & 18mm OD x 1mm).

* Attach the small heatshields (left and right) to the exhaust manifold.

* Attach the wastegate manifold to the turbo.

* Make sure all pipes are clear (and in particular the EGR pipe ), fit the EGR gasket, fit the exhaust manifold gasket on the bolts then lower the turbo assembly into position. Angle the side by the PAS pump towards the engine and insert the slotted hole ever the stud. When the manifold studs are aligned, gently push so the exhaust manifold engages with the bolts; screw on two manifold nuts to retain the manifold loosely in position.

* Loosely fit the remaining 7 manifold nuts.

* Attach the turbo oil return pipe.

* Gently press the EGR pipe into the hole in the manifold.

* Fix the water pipe bracket, taking care to bolt though the heatshield.

* Attach the turbo water cooling pipes (top and bottom).

* Loosely clamp the oil feed banjo to the block fitting new copper washers (10mm ID & 16mm OD x 1mm) then loosely clamp the bracket onto the coolant bracket.

* '''Fill the turbo with clean oil.'''

* Fit the top banjo loosely to the turbo fitting new copper washers (10mm ID & 16mm OD x 1mm)

* Tighten the manifold nuts to the specified torque in the correct sequence. Unless you have a torque spanner, it is impossible to get a torque wrench into all nuts - pull the torque wrench at the same distance as the length of spanner you're going to use then use a pipe or rag around the spanner to make it a similar diameter to the torque wrench. You should be able to estimate the torque reasonably well - about three grunts in my case!

* Tighten both turbo oil feed banjos and the intermediate clamp.

* Fit wastegate manifold bracket to block and wastegate manifold.

* Loosely fit dipstick bracket. Loosely fit the dipstick pipe to the bracket then connect to engine. Tighten bracket and pipe.

* Fit the top (manifold ) heatshield.

* Fit the turbo outlet pipe.

* Fit the wastegate capsule - lubricate the pivot with Copaslip or similar, engage in wastegate arm, attach the pipe, fix the capsule to the turbo, clamp the pipe and attach the C clip to the wastegate arm.

* Fix the EGR to the manifold then tighten up the EGR pipe clamp.

* Attach the engine hoist bracket and fix the turbo water cooling pipe to the bracket.

* Fix the two studs at the bottom of the wastegate manifold, fit the gasket with some exhaust paste then attach the pre-cat to the manifold with two nuts. Fix the four remaining bolts and attach the pre-cat bracket to the pre-cat and block.

* Fit the lower pre-cat gasket with some exhaust paste, fit the three studs in the pre-cat (through the exhaust flange), then tighten up the nuts.

* Fit the lower turbo heatshield - fit all four bolts but only tighten up the bottom two. Remove the top two (shared) bolts as these were in place solely to make sure the holes were aligned.

* Fit the top turbo heatshield.

* Fit the oxygen sensor.

* Remove the lower (shared) bolt from the bottom turbo heatshield and fit the pre-cat heatshield.

[[Category:Incomplete]]
[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:Wastegate]]
[[Category:Turbo]]

Gaiters

2008-07-18T15:16:53Z

Kmckmc: New page: Replacement Gearlever and Handbrake gaiters

Replacement Gearlever and Handbrake gaiters

Spark plugs

2008-07-18T05:16:17Z

Kmckmc: /* Turbo SE and S2 */

{{stub}}
== Turbo SE and S2 ==

'''Recommended:'''

*NGK BKR6E

*ND K20PR-U

Gap: 0.8mm (0.031")

----
For my M100 S2, I use NGK BKR6EIX, No problem!

'''Alternative:'''

*NGK BKR7E-11

*ND K22PR-U11

Gap: 1.1mm (0.043")

== N/A ==

Text required

[[Category:ReplacementParts]]
[[Category:Incomplete]]
[[Category:Components]]

Spark plugs

2008-07-18T05:15:45Z

Kmckmc: /* Turbo SE and S2 */

{{stub}}
== Turbo SE and S2 ==

'''Recommended:'''

*NGK BKR6E

*ND K20PR-U

Gap: 0.8mm (0.031")

----
For my M100 S2, I use NGK BKE6EIX, No problem!

'''Alternative:'''

*NGK BKR7E-11

*ND K22PR-U11

Gap: 1.1mm (0.043")

== N/A ==

Text required

[[Category:ReplacementParts]]
[[Category:Incomplete]]
[[Category:Components]]

File:ElanPagidBlue pads.JPG

2008-07-18T04:24:54Z

Kmckmc:

File:ElanPagidBlue pads sell.JPG

2008-07-18T04:19:33Z

Kmckmc: Pagid RS4-2 Blue front brake pads for Elan M100

Pagid RS4-2 Blue front brake pads for Elan M100

File:Elan M100 protech frt.JPG

2008-07-18T04:16:36Z

Kmckmc: Protech front adjustable dampers for Elan M100

Protech front adjustable dampers for Elan M100

Brake Caliper Sliding Pins

2008-07-18T04:11:32Z

Kmckmc: /* Lotus */

=Replacement parts for front calipers=

==Lotus==

The kit from Aftersales (part no A100J6061S) is just for the seals, and one pack will do 2 calipers - i.e. it contains 4 seals.

If the sliders are worn at all, or any of the dust covers are missing, you are probably better off going down to HalFrauds and getting their Vauxhall kit. It costs about a tenner each side, but includes the sliders, seals and dust covers for the allen head bolts.

The lotus part number for the same kit is A100J6066S, but costs lots more (and with delivery on top, it gets even worse).

==Halfords==

[[Image:HalfordsSlidingPinKit.jpg|thumb|Halfords sliding pin kit]]

Front Caliper sliding pin kit with seals and now a little tube of grease:- Vauxhall Astra, 1.8 GSI, G reg Halfords HFK800 £9:99 Qty 2

=How to re-grease sliding pins=

# Remove wheel
# Remove caliper
# Support caliper...
# Remove sliders
# Replace seals if required

==Removing old sliders==
The sliders are dead easy: push firmly on end of the first slider, it will pop past the dust seals. If the seal needs a helping hand, just lift the lip out of the end groves of the slider.

If the slider needs to be hammered or drifted out it's corroded. Support the caliper and knock 'em out anyway. Admire the oxidisation process and send the whole unit for reconditioning. New units come with sliders.

==Putting in new sliders==

Using your hands/fingers, smear Lithium Grease (White stuff) over the sliders and lube the bores, push the slider back through the first seal into the calipers and helping past the other seal. Using your thumb and forefinger the sliders should shuttle, a little stiffly at first, but then slide smoothly back and forth under a constant alternating pressure. Any excess grease will squidge out.

Don't be tempted to use graphite greases or a variant of copper eaze: these are very abrasive greases and will do harm to your sliders and the bores in which they sit. Silicon products won't perish the seals like other greases.

Repeat for the other sliders..

=Replacement parts for rear calipers=

==Lotus==

This is where things get a little complicated. These units are not Lotus per say, but have a complicated history behind them. The long story short; seizing was common on our style of calipers; this was due to the metallurgic qualities between the sliders and calipers. In the USA a recall notice was issued and a potential law suit ensued, overall the problem was resolved and the design changed. The scary part, Lotus never issued the recall notice in the UK.

So where do we stand...

Replacement sliders are available from SJ Lotus, they also recondition the rear units.

Similar, but not identical variants of caliper are available from USA.
[http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/partsandaccessories/srchRes.asp?Car_ID=9&Type1_ID=9&srch=REAR+CALIPER+sliding Rear Sliders] for pre-mod brake calipers, basically the UK varient.

----

Replacement parts for rear caliper seals: DORMAN Part # D352737

Replacement parts for rear caliper boot kits: ACDELCO Part # 18K453

Alternatively, one could order a pair of DORMAN rear calipers (ie, part# CA10113L and CA10114R). These DORMAN calipers have all the parts less the tools to overhaul one's current OEM Lotus rear calipers.

[[Category: Brakes]]
[[Category: HowTo]]
[[Category:ReplacementParts]]
[[Category:Components]]

Brake Caliper Sliding Pins

2008-07-18T04:10:46Z

Kmckmc: /* Lotus */

=Replacement parts for front calipers=

==Lotus==

The kit from Aftersales (part no A100J6061S) is just for the seals, and one pack will do 2 calipers - i.e. it contains 4 seals.

If the sliders are worn at all, or any of the dust covers are missing, you are probably better off going down to HalFrauds and getting their Vauxhall kit. It costs about a tenner each side, but includes the sliders, seals and dust covers for the allen head bolts.

The lotus part number for the same kit is A100J6066S, but costs lots more (and with delivery on top, it gets even worse).

==Halfords==

[[Image:HalfordsSlidingPinKit.jpg|thumb|Halfords sliding pin kit]]

Front Caliper sliding pin kit with seals and now a little tube of grease:- Vauxhall Astra, 1.8 GSI, G reg Halfords HFK800 £9:99 Qty 2

=How to re-grease sliding pins=

# Remove wheel
# Remove caliper
# Support caliper...
# Remove sliders
# Replace seals if required

==Removing old sliders==
The sliders are dead easy: push firmly on end of the first slider, it will pop past the dust seals. If the seal needs a helping hand, just lift the lip out of the end groves of the slider.

If the slider needs to be hammered or drifted out it's corroded. Support the caliper and knock 'em out anyway. Admire the oxidisation process and send the whole unit for reconditioning. New units come with sliders.

==Putting in new sliders==

Using your hands/fingers, smear Lithium Grease (White stuff) over the sliders and lube the bores, push the slider back through the first seal into the calipers and helping past the other seal. Using your thumb and forefinger the sliders should shuttle, a little stiffly at first, but then slide smoothly back and forth under a constant alternating pressure. Any excess grease will squidge out.

Don't be tempted to use graphite greases or a variant of copper eaze: these are very abrasive greases and will do harm to your sliders and the bores in which they sit. Silicon products won't perish the seals like other greases.

Repeat for the other sliders..

=Replacement parts for rear calipers=

==Lotus==

This is where things get a little complicated. These units are not Lotus per say, but have a complicated history behind them. The long story short; seizing was common on our style of calipers; this was due to the metallurgic qualities between the sliders and calipers. In the USA a recall notice was issued and a potential law suit ensued, overall the problem was resolved and the design changed. The scary part, Lotus never issued the recall notice in the UK.

So where do we stand...

Replacement sliders are available from SJ Lotus, they also recondition the rear units.

Similar, but not identical variants of caliper are available from USA.
[http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/partsandaccessories/srchRes.asp?Car_ID=9&Type1_ID=9&srch=REAR+CALIPER+sliding Rear Sliders] for pre-mod brake calipers, basically the UK varient.

----

Replacement parts for rear caliper seals: DORMAN Part # D352737
Rpplacement parts for rear caliper boot kits: ACDELCO Part # 18K453

Alternatively, one could order a pair of DORMAN rear calipers (ie, part# CA10113L and CA10114R). These DORMAN calipers have all the parts less the tools to overhaul one's current OEM Lotus rear calipers.

[[Category: Brakes]]
[[Category: HowTo]]
[[Category:ReplacementParts]]
[[Category:Components]]

Brake Caliper Sliding Pins

2008-07-18T04:04:22Z

Kmckmc: /* Lotus */

=Replacement parts for front calipers=

==Lotus==

The kit from Aftersales (part no A100J6061S) is just for the seals, and one pack will do 2 calipers - i.e. it contains 4 seals.

If the sliders are worn at all, or any of the dust covers are missing, you are probably better off going down to HalFrauds and getting their Vauxhall kit. It costs about a tenner each side, but includes the sliders, seals and dust covers for the allen head bolts.

The lotus part number for the same kit is A100J6066S, but costs lots more (and with delivery on top, it gets even worse).

==Halfords==

[[Image:HalfordsSlidingPinKit.jpg|thumb|Halfords sliding pin kit]]

Front Caliper sliding pin kit with seals and now a little tube of grease:- Vauxhall Astra, 1.8 GSI, G reg Halfords HFK800 £9:99 Qty 2

=How to re-grease sliding pins=

# Remove wheel
# Remove caliper
# Support caliper...
# Remove sliders
# Replace seals if required

==Removing old sliders==
The sliders are dead easy: push firmly on end of the first slider, it will pop past the dust seals. If the seal needs a helping hand, just lift the lip out of the end groves of the slider.

If the slider needs to be hammered or drifted out it's corroded. Support the caliper and knock 'em out anyway. Admire the oxidisation process and send the whole unit for reconditioning. New units come with sliders.

==Putting in new sliders==

Using your hands/fingers, smear Lithium Grease (White stuff) over the sliders and lube the bores, push the slider back through the first seal into the calipers and helping past the other seal. Using your thumb and forefinger the sliders should shuttle, a little stiffly at first, but then slide smoothly back and forth under a constant alternating pressure. Any excess grease will squidge out.

Don't be tempted to use graphite greases or a variant of copper eaze: these are very abrasive greases and will do harm to your sliders and the bores in which they sit. Silicon products won't perish the seals like other greases.

Repeat for the other sliders..

=Replacement parts for rear calipers=

==Lotus==

This is where things get a little complicated. These units are not Lotus per say, but have a complicated history behind them. The long story short; seizing was common on our style of calipers; this was due to the metallurgic qualities between the sliders and calipers. In the USA a recall notice was issued and a potential law suit ensued, overall the problem was resolved and the design changed. The scary part, Lotus never issued the recall notice in the UK.

So where do we stand...

Replacement sliders are available from SJ Lotus, they also recondition the rear units.

Similar, but not identical variants of caliper are available from USA.

[http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/partsandaccessories/srchRes.asp?Car_ID=9&Type1_ID=9&srch=REAR+CALIPER+sliding Rear Sliders] for pre-mod brake calipers, basically the UK varient.

Replacement parts for rear caliper seals: DORMAN Part # D352737
[URL=http://imageshack.us][IMG]http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/9564/rearcalipersealsd352737my1.jpg[/IMG][/

[[Category: Brakes]]
[[Category: HowTo]]
[[Category:ReplacementParts]]
[[Category:Components]]