WikiLEC - User contributions [en]

ElanScan

2011-06-26T15:59:20Z

JonT:

ElanScan is a piece of software which interfaces with the Elan's [[ECU]] and can retrieve various real-time stats.

ElanScan is available for download from [[http://www.astb91.dsl.pipex.com/M100_ALDL.html ESM's website]], information on obtaining suitable interfaces is available at [[http://www.aldlinterfaces.ukf.net/index.htm GeoffSmith's website]].

== Preparation ==

If you think you have a problem, CHECK THE [[Base Timing|BASE TIMING]]. Provided this is correct, then proceed.

----

== Communication errors ==

''The error log reports any bad communications between the pc/ES and then car/ECU :''

=== Comm port inactive ===

The wrong communications port has been selected for ElanScan. Check in the pc hardware configuration / device manager to see which ports are present. {From bitter experience, this may also indicate a broken serial port!}.

In Windows XP go into '''Device Manager''': Right mouse on | '''My Computer''' | and select | '''Properties''' |, select the | '''Hardware''' | tab and press | '''Device Manager''' |. Expand the | '''Universal Serial Bus controllers''' | by clicking on the [+] and there should be a reference to a | '''USB serial converter''' |. Expand the | '''Ports (Com & LPT)''' | and there should be a reference to | '''USB Serial Port (COMX)''' |. The port number must be used so in ElanScan click "Setup" then "Set comm port" and select the correct number (COMX) from the list.

To check the latency, double click on | '''Ports (Com & LPT)''' | and select the | '''Port Settings''' | tab. Click the | '''Advanced''' | button and ensure that the | '''Latency Timer (msec):''' | is set to '''1'''.

[[Image:DeviceManagerWithElanScanInterface.gif|150px|Device manager with USB ElanScan Interface]]

=== Bad echo (sent: F4 56 01 B5: received: ) ===

The ECU is not responding, usually because the ignition is not turned on or the interfaces is not properly connected [Note F4 56 01 B5 relates to the Elan turbo engine only]

=== Bad echo (sent: F4 56 01 B5: received: XX XX XX XX) ===

Indicates noisy communication with the ECU, likely caused by a poor electrical connection [Note XX is the hex representation of a byte of data and there may be between one and four bytes returned depending on the problem]

=== No reply No frame start byte received ===

Probably caused by having the latency timer setting too high: In device manager (see "Comm port inactive" above), select | USB serial port | Port settings | Advanced | BM option:Latency timer (ms) | and make sure it is set to 1. See also [http://www.astb91.dsl.pipex.com/USB_Driver_Instructions.html USB driver instructions].

For Win7, the [http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/AppNotes/AN_107_AdvancedDriverOptions_AN_000073.pdf FTDI application note] on advanced device settings is helpful. Note in particular that the settings are for the "USB Serial port" (usually under Ports), rather than "USB Serial Converter" under USB. The "Ports" section may only be visible when the ElanScan cable is connected to the computer.

[[Image:DeviceManagerElanScanInterfaceAdvancedSettings.gif|150px|Device manager with advanced settings for USB ElanScan Interface]]

== User help ==

=== Change the graph display ===

[[Image:ES_Display_Parameters.gif|150px|Display parameters]]

Select the required parameter from the drop down boxes:

Primary axis data in blue

Secondary axis data in red

''Click on the picture for a full sized view''

== Lotus Fault Finder ==

[[Image:EMK_Figure_4-9.gif|150px|Fault finder]]

== Diagnoses ==

* Baseline ES run from cold

Start engine from cold until the fans kick in for the second time. Thermostat opening should be apparent at ~80 to 85°C and fan switch at ~105 to 110°C.

[[Image:CoolantTemperatureFromCold.gif‎|200px|Coolant temperature rise from cold]]

''Suggestions and links to LEC until they can be migrated into the Wiki (Geoff)''

* Baseline ES run WOT in third gear

* [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10759 High idle speed]

* Stuck thermostat

* Stuck wastegate

* Idle not matching target idle : appears to be caused when TPS low is not set to 0.4V. See Wayne's data [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=18411&start=4]

* O2 sensor: For closed loop cars, from cold, the '''"CO potentiometer/Oxygen sensor?"''' trace should start at about 3V and within a couple of minutes, be oscillating between less than ~1V and greater than ~3.5V:
[[Image:HealthyO2sensorOutputFromCold.gif|150px|Display parameters]]

''Click on the picture for a full sized view''

[[Category: ElanScan]]
[[Category: ECU]]
[[Category: Diagnostics]]
[[Category: Incomplete]]

ElanScan

2011-06-26T15:57:02Z

JonT: Clarification of where settings are in menu system

ElanScan is a piece of software which interfaces with the Elan's [[ECU]] and can retrieve various real-time stats.

ElanScan is available for download from [[http://www.astb91.dsl.pipex.com/M100_ALDL.html ESM's website]], information on obtaining suitable interfaces is available at [[http://www.aldlinterfaces.ukf.net/index.htm GeoffSmith's website]].

== Preparation ==

If you think you have a problem, CHECK THE [[Base Timing|BASE TIMING]]. Provided this is correct, then proceed.

----

== Communication errors ==

''The error log reports any bad communications between the pc/ES and then car/ECU :''

=== Comm port inactive ===

The wrong communications port has been selected for ElanScan. Check in the pc hardware configuration / device manager to see which ports are present. {From bitter experience, this may also indicate a broken serial port!}.

In Windows XP go into '''Device Manager''': Right mouse on | '''My Computer''' | and select | '''Properties''' |, select the | '''Hardware''' | tab and press | '''Device Manager''' |. Expand the | '''Universal Serial Bus controllers''' | by clicking on the [+] and there should be a reference to a | '''USB serial converter''' |. Expand the | '''Ports (Com & LPT)''' | and there should be a reference to | '''USB Serial Port (COMX)''' |. The port number must be used so in ElanScan click "Setup" then "Set comm port" and select the correct number (COMX) from the list.

To check the latency, double click on | '''Ports (Com & LPT)''' | and select the | '''Port Settings''' | tab. Click the | '''Advanced''' | button and ensure that the | '''Latency Timer (msec):''' | is set to '''1'''.

[[Image:DeviceManagerWithElanScanInterface.gif|150px|Device manager with USB ElanScan Interface]]

=== Bad echo (sent: F4 56 01 B5: received: ) ===

The ECU is not responding, usually because the ignition is not turned on or the interfaces is not properly connected [Note F4 56 01 B5 relates to the Elan turbo engine only]

=== Bad echo (sent: F4 56 01 B5: received: XX XX XX XX) ===

Indicates noisy communication with the ECU, likely caused by a poor electrical connection [Note XX is the hex representation of a byte of data and there may be between one and four bytes returned depending on the problem]

=== No reply No frame start byte received ===

Probably caused by having the latency timer setting too high: In device manager (see "Comm port inactive" above), select | USB serial port | Port settings | Advanced | BM option:Latency timer (ms) | and make sure it is set to 1. See also [http://www.astb91.dsl.pipex.com/USB_Driver_Instructions.html USB driver instructions].

For Win7, the [http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/AppNotes/AN_107_AdvancedDriverOptions_AN_000073.pdf FTDI application note] on advanced device settings is helpful. Note in particular that the settings are for the "USB Serial port" (usually under Ports), rather than "USB Serial Converter" under USB.

[[Image:DeviceManagerElanScanInterfaceAdvancedSettings.gif|150px|Device manager with advanced settings for USB ElanScan Interface]]

== User help ==

=== Change the graph display ===

[[Image:ES_Display_Parameters.gif|150px|Display parameters]]

Select the required parameter from the drop down boxes:

Primary axis data in blue

Secondary axis data in red

''Click on the picture for a full sized view''

== Lotus Fault Finder ==

[[Image:EMK_Figure_4-9.gif|150px|Fault finder]]

== Diagnoses ==

* Baseline ES run from cold

Start engine from cold until the fans kick in for the second time. Thermostat opening should be apparent at ~80 to 85°C and fan switch at ~105 to 110°C.

[[Image:CoolantTemperatureFromCold.gif‎|200px|Coolant temperature rise from cold]]

''Suggestions and links to LEC until they can be migrated into the Wiki (Geoff)''

* Baseline ES run WOT in third gear

* [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10759 High idle speed]

* Stuck thermostat

* Stuck wastegate

* Idle not matching target idle : appears to be caused when TPS low is not set to 0.4V. See Wayne's data [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=18411&start=4]

* O2 sensor: For closed loop cars, from cold, the '''"CO potentiometer/Oxygen sensor?"''' trace should start at about 3V and within a couple of minutes, be oscillating between less than ~1V and greater than ~3.5V:
[[Image:HealthyO2sensorOutputFromCold.gif|150px|Display parameters]]

''Click on the picture for a full sized view''

[[Category: ElanScan]]
[[Category: ECU]]
[[Category: Diagnostics]]
[[Category: Incomplete]]

ElanScan

2011-06-26T15:50:35Z

JonT: /* No reply No frame start byte received */

ElanScan is a piece of software which interfaces with the Elan's [[ECU]] and can retrieve various real-time stats.

ElanScan is available for download from [[http://www.astb91.dsl.pipex.com/M100_ALDL.html ESM's website]], information on obtaining suitable interfaces is available at [[http://www.aldlinterfaces.ukf.net/index.htm GeoffSmith's website]].

== Preparation ==

If you think you have a problem, CHECK THE [[Base Timing|BASE TIMING]]. Provided this is correct, then proceed.

----

== Communication errors ==

''The error log reports any bad communications between the pc/ES and then car/ECU :''

=== Comm port inactive ===

The wrong communications port has been selected for ElanScan. Check in the pc hardware configuration / device manager to see which ports are present. {From bitter experience, this may also indicate a broken serial port!}.

In Windows XP go into '''Device Manager''': Right mouse on | '''My Computer''' | and select | '''Properties''' |, select the | '''Hardware''' | tab and press | '''Device Manager''' |. Expand the | '''Universal Serial Bus controllers''' | by clicking on the [+] and there should be a reference to a | '''USB serial converter''' |. Expand the | '''Ports (Com & LPT)''' | and there should be a reference to | '''USB Serial Port (COMX)''' |. The port number must be used so in ElanScan click "Setup" then "Set comm port" and select the correct number (COMX) from the list.

To check the latency, double click on | '''Ports (Com & LPT)''' | and select the | '''Port Settings''' | tab. Click the | '''Advanced''' | button and ensure that the | '''Latency Timer (msec):''' | is set to '''1'''.

[[Image:DeviceManagerWithElanScanInterface.gif|150px|Device manager with USB ElanScan Interface]]

=== Bad echo (sent: F4 56 01 B5: received: ) ===

The ECU is not responding, usually because the ignition is not turned on or the interfaces is not properly connected [Note F4 56 01 B5 relates to the Elan turbo engine only]

=== Bad echo (sent: F4 56 01 B5: received: XX XX XX XX) ===

Indicates noisy communication with the ECU, likely caused by a poor electrical connection [Note XX is the hex representation of a byte of data and there may be between one and four bytes returned depending on the problem]

=== No reply No frame start byte received ===

Probably caused by having the latency timer setting too high: In device manager (see "Comm port inactive" above), select | USB serial port | Port settings | Advanced | BM option:Latency timer (ms) | and make sure it is set to 1. See also [http://www.astb91.dsl.pipex.com/USB_Driver_Instructions.html USB driver instructions].

For Win7, the [http://www.ftdichip.com/Support/Documents/AppNotes/AN_107_AdvancedDriverOptions_AN_000073.pdf FTDI application note] on advanced device settings is helpful.

[[Image:DeviceManagerElanScanInterfaceAdvancedSettings.gif|150px|Device manager with advanced settings for USB ElanScan Interface]]

== User help ==

=== Change the graph display ===

[[Image:ES_Display_Parameters.gif|150px|Display parameters]]

Select the required parameter from the drop down boxes:

Primary axis data in blue

Secondary axis data in red

''Click on the picture for a full sized view''

== Lotus Fault Finder ==

[[Image:EMK_Figure_4-9.gif|150px|Fault finder]]

== Diagnoses ==

* Baseline ES run from cold

Start engine from cold until the fans kick in for the second time. Thermostat opening should be apparent at ~80 to 85°C and fan switch at ~105 to 110°C.

[[Image:CoolantTemperatureFromCold.gif‎|200px|Coolant temperature rise from cold]]

''Suggestions and links to LEC until they can be migrated into the Wiki (Geoff)''

* Baseline ES run WOT in third gear

* [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10759 High idle speed]

* Stuck thermostat

* Stuck wastegate

* Idle not matching target idle : appears to be caused when TPS low is not set to 0.4V. See Wayne's data [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=18411&start=4]

* O2 sensor: For closed loop cars, from cold, the '''"CO potentiometer/Oxygen sensor?"''' trace should start at about 3V and within a couple of minutes, be oscillating between less than ~1V and greater than ~3.5V:
[[Image:HealthyO2sensorOutputFromCold.gif|150px|Display parameters]]

''Click on the picture for a full sized view''

[[Category: ElanScan]]
[[Category: ECU]]
[[Category: Diagnostics]]
[[Category: Incomplete]]

Boost leak

2011-05-11T20:15:20Z

JonT: /* Hints for finding a boost leak */

== Hints for finding a boost leak ==
(taken from this thread http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=18941)
A very cheap test rig can be put together using a bike inner tube. A mountain bike tyre is more suitable than road bike - I used one for tyres up to 2.125" diameter which is a tight fit over the turbo intake.

Cut the tube in half a short distance from the valve. Tie a knot in the short end. Remove the ribbed hose from the turbo intake, and fit the other end of the inner tube over it (I found rolling it back on itself slightly allowed it to be pulled/stretched over the intake). Use the a jubilee clip to secure it:

[[Image:boost_leak.JPG]]

A footpump can then be used to pressurize the intake system:

[[Image:boost_leak2.JPG]]

After a few pumps, listen for any hissing around the turbo hoses, down to the intercooler, and back up and around the intake plenum. If it's hissing, you've got a leak.

The bike tyre will inflate fairly quickly even though the overall pressure in the system is low. Keep an eye out for it coming off the intake though - if it does it will be with a very loud bang!

Boost leak

2011-05-11T20:15:08Z

JonT: images uploaded and links fixed

== Hints for finding a boost leak ==
(taken from this thread http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=18941)
A very cheap test rig can be put together using a bike inner tube. A mountain bike tyre is more suitable than road bike - I used one for tyres up to 2.125" diameter which is a tight fit over the turbo intake.

Cut the tube in half a short distance from the valve. Tie a knot in the short end. Remove the ribbed hose from the turbo intake, and fit the other end of the inner tube over it (I found rolling it back on itself slightly allowed it to be pulled/stretched over the intake). Use the a jubilee clip to secure it:
[[Image:boost_leak.JPG]]

A footpump can then be used to pressurize the intake system:
[[Image:boost_leak2.JPG]]

After a few pumps, listen for any hissing around the turbo hoses, down to the intercooler, and back up and around the intake plenum. If it's hissing, you've got a leak.

The bike tyre will inflate fairly quickly even though the overall pressure in the system is low. Keep an eye out for it coming off the intake though - if it does it will be with a very loud bang!

File:Boost leak2.JPG

2011-05-11T20:14:19Z

JonT: boost_leak2

boost_leak2

File:Boost leak.JPG

2011-05-11T20:13:48Z

JonT: boost_leak

boost_leak

Boost leak

2011-05-11T20:10:50Z

JonT: Using a bike inner tube to hunt for boost leaks

== Hints for finding a boost leak ==
(taken from this thread http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=18941)
A very cheap test rig can be put together using a bike inner tube. A mountain bike tyre is more suitable than road bike - I used one for tyres up to 2.125" diameter which is a tight fit over the turbo intake.

Cut the tube in half a short distance from the valve. Tie a knot in the short end. Remove the ribbed hose from the turbo intake, and fit the other end of the inner tube over it (I found rolling it back on itself slightly allowed it to be pulled/stretched over the intake). Use the a jubilee clip to secure it:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g137/mr2gts/LEC/DSC_0045.jpg

A footpump can then be used to pressurize the intake system:
http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g137/mr2gts/LEC/DSC_0046.jpg

After a few pumps, listen for any hissing around the turbo hoses, down to the intercooler, and back up and around the intake plenum. If it's hissing, you've got a leak.

The bike tyre will inflate fairly quickly even though the overall pressure in the system is low. Keep an eye out for it coming off the intake though - if it does it will be with a very loud bang!

Tickover

2011-04-29T19:48:08Z

JonT: added link to CEL page for ALDL pins

== Tickover ==

'''''***If there is any doubt or problems with setting the tickover, then the [[Base_Timing]] should be checked***'''''

'''Vacuum Pipes'''

Considering high revs can be caused by a split, or detached vacuum pipe it’s probably best to check these first. You can get an indication of a vacuum problem by taking a pipe off while the engine is running at tickover – the revs should rise, if not, there’s already a leak.

The revs should be the same in '''‘normal’''' and '''‘service mode’'''

'''To enter Service Mode'''

Putting the paperclip in... ([[Check_Engine_Light_Problems|Shorting terminal A and B of the (ALDL) Assembly Line Diagnostic Link]])... while the engine is running at operating temperature puts the car into “service mode” (CO Adjustment Mode)

'''To make an adjustment'''

Locate the idle adjustment screw on the top of the throttle body. Have a flat screwdriver handy. With the engine up to temperature and running, put the paperclip in. If there’s a problem with the base tickover it will rise or fall as the clip contact is made. Adjust to 950RPM – rev the engine slowly to 2000 and back – check and adjust the revs if necessary – remove the clip - rev the engine slowly to 2000 and back – if it’s still 950RPM the job is done, if not, repeat the process. Only make the adjustment with the clip in.

The adjustment is 1½ turns back from fully in to get 950RPM (on Ray's and Gazza's at least)

Turn anticlockwise to increase the revs ... screwing outwards ... opening the valve.

[[Image:Adj2.jpg]]

In order to prevent the adjustment moving on its own over time, here's a simple modification using an ordinary tap washer and a small screw.

[[Image:Idle_adjust.jpg]]

It is also worth checking the throttle cable. Reference Lotus Service Notes section EC11 para. 20 "Slacken the throttle cable adjuster nuts at the plenum abutment bracket. Hold the quadrant fully closed and pull back the outer throttle cable. Adjust locknut B to obtain a clearance between the nut and abutment bracket of 3mm then push the adjuster against the bracket and tighten locknut A".

[[Image:EC11-20a.gif]] [[Image:EC11-20b.gif]]

Oxygen (Lambda) sensor

2011-02-17T06:46:40Z

JonT: /* Replacement parts, UK Sourced */

== About ==
The Oxygen (02) Sensor monitors the amount of unburnt oxygen which passes out of the engine through the [[Exhaust|exhaust]] manifold. This reading is then used by the [[ECM]] to determine the correct input fuel mixture. It is not the only sensor that controls fuel mixture, but it is regarded as the 'primary' sensor, because ultimately whatever is exhausted from the engine is the 'actual' result of the burnt mix - whereas all the other sensors read pre-burn factors such as air and [[Coolant_Temperature_Sensor_(CTS)|coolant]] temperatures.

Oxygen Sensors only came into mainstream production use in the early-mid 90s, and hence not found on the N/A or SE Elan M100. However, it is possible to [[Converting_SE_to_closed_loop_ECU|convert the SE]] to use an O2 Sensor.

== Replacement parts - All 3 wire exact replacements ==

The following appear to be currently available exact drop in replacements:

Bosch 13277

Bosch 15701

Walker 250-23127

Denso 234-3014

== Replacement parts - Background ==

In the [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/repair/oxysens.htm LEC repairs area], Jade and Nitro identified the [[Media:Discount Auto -11039.jpg|Discount Auto #11039]] as a direct replacement for Fed Elans, Doug also identified the [[Media:Bosch -13277.jpg|Bosch #13277]] and Charlie the '''NGK #21012'''. Rockauto also list the Bosch #15701 as a direct replacement.

''Having dug around unsuccessfully on UK sites to find these part numbers, it looked like I was going to have to get one in from the US.''

''However, I happened upon one on a well known international auction site for a [[Media:Bosch 0 258 003 229.jpg|Rover 218 VVC]]. The only apparent difference is that the wires appear longer than the Elan's which are about 40cm long. Fortunately, a European Bosch number (10 numbers) was on the photograph so a quick search on 0 258 003 229 threw up the [http://www.lambdasensor.co.uk/main/mcrossref.htm Just Lamba website] whose [[Media:Bosch 0 258 003 229 details.jpg|details]] confirmed the Rover part appeared to have the right connector but that the lead length was 59cm. Never mind, 13 lines above it are the [[Media:Bosch 0 258 003 193 details.jpg|details]] for the 0 258 003 193 which has a lead length of 39cm. A further search of the part number throws up the [[Media:Mini O2 details.jpg|1300 Mk1 Mini]] from [http://www.seik.de/shop/search2.jsp?field=fulltext&Search=mini&from=20 Seik for €24].''

''The European Bosch reference for the O2 sensor would appear to be 0 258 003 193 from a 1300 Mini {although I've just noticed it's four wire not three wire and the pins are spade rather than round ... bugger!} These alternatives ''should'' work but will require the plug to be rewired '''Also very useful information at [http://www.lucaselectrical.co.uk/technicalinfo.html Lucas Electrical]'''''

There are some other possible replacements listed at OxygenSensors.com under: 
Year: 1991 
Make: Isuzu 
Model: Impulse 
Sub-Model: RS 
Engine: L4 cyl (1.6 L,1588) 

The exact drop-in replacements suggested are: 
Walker #250-23127 3-Wire 
Denso #234-3014 3-Wire 

{{warning|text=This site also lists a 'Universal' part #250-23000. Ignore this, as the fitting is not correct}}

== Replacement parts, UK Sourced ==
Added by JonT in Feb 2011 (car is a May 1991 SE)

Googling for the 15701 Sensor in the UK seems to go nowhere, but this site: [http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/1/554269-premium-oxygen-sensor-by-bosch-part-15701.html Advance Auto Parts] gives a long list of cars that use that particular sensor. Bosch [http://www.bosch-automotive-catalog.com/public/catalog/products have an online parts catalogue]. Using some of those cars suggested above (making sure you tick the "enlarge vehicle fleet to all countries") allows you to search for some of the cars on the list above. Taking say the Isuze Rodeo 2.6 gives part 0258003277 but that's only 340mm according to the Bosch site. Other than that, the plug looks right, and it's 3 wire. The Rodeo is also listed as using 0258005701. This is listed on the Bosch site as a 3 wire, 430mm O2 sensor, with a cross reference part number of 15701 - which is a direct fit as given above. Searching for the 10 digit part number on UK ebay produces a supplier (at a price!) who will supply a genuine 3 wire Bosch part. This seems to work as a direct fit with the correct connector with no extra work needed. Note that their auction page lists this as a 4 wire part (possibly because it's a 4 pin connector), but it's definitely the 3 wire part matching the part number that is supplied.

== Replacing ==
# Apply copious amounts of penetrating oil, heat and/or cold to get the old sensor out.
# Use an 18mm O2 sensor socket which has a slot up the side for the lead.
# Check that the thread in the exhaust system is clean and in good condition before attempting to install the new sensor. Don't drop any swarf into the pre-cat!
# Handle the sensor with care to prevent damage - dropping a sensor could inflict damage to the ceramic, which would not be apparent during installation.
# '''During production an anti-corrosion compound is applied to the threaded portion of the sensor body. This is a sensor friendly grease compound and no other anti-seize compounds should be used as they may contain ingredients that could poison the sensor elements. Do not use any other cleaning or anti-rust solvents near the sensor body as this could similarly affect the element.'''
# Remove the protection cap just prior to fitting. Screw the sensor into place by hand then tighten to the specified [[Torque settings]] ensuring that the wiring harness is not twisted as the sensor is screwed in.
# Secure the harness using the correct fixings, ensuring that the routing does not produce any kinks in the wires, touch any part of the exhaust system or other hot components and does not foul any rotating parts.
# Reconnect the harness connector.

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:Components]]

Oxygen (Lambda) sensor

2011-02-17T06:45:41Z

JonT: /* Replacement parts, UK Sourced */

== About ==
The Oxygen (02) Sensor monitors the amount of unburnt oxygen which passes out of the engine through the [[Exhaust|exhaust]] manifold. This reading is then used by the [[ECM]] to determine the correct input fuel mixture. It is not the only sensor that controls fuel mixture, but it is regarded as the 'primary' sensor, because ultimately whatever is exhausted from the engine is the 'actual' result of the burnt mix - whereas all the other sensors read pre-burn factors such as air and [[Coolant_Temperature_Sensor_(CTS)|coolant]] temperatures.

Oxygen Sensors only came into mainstream production use in the early-mid 90s, and hence not found on the N/A or SE Elan M100. However, it is possible to [[Converting_SE_to_closed_loop_ECU|convert the SE]] to use an O2 Sensor.

== Replacement parts - All 3 wire exact replacements ==

The following appear to be currently available exact drop in replacements:

Bosch 13277

Bosch 15701

Walker 250-23127

Denso 234-3014

== Replacement parts - Background ==

In the [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/repair/oxysens.htm LEC repairs area], Jade and Nitro identified the [[Media:Discount Auto -11039.jpg|Discount Auto #11039]] as a direct replacement for Fed Elans, Doug also identified the [[Media:Bosch -13277.jpg|Bosch #13277]] and Charlie the '''NGK #21012'''. Rockauto also list the Bosch #15701 as a direct replacement.

''Having dug around unsuccessfully on UK sites to find these part numbers, it looked like I was going to have to get one in from the US.''

''However, I happened upon one on a well known international auction site for a [[Media:Bosch 0 258 003 229.jpg|Rover 218 VVC]]. The only apparent difference is that the wires appear longer than the Elan's which are about 40cm long. Fortunately, a European Bosch number (10 numbers) was on the photograph so a quick search on 0 258 003 229 threw up the [http://www.lambdasensor.co.uk/main/mcrossref.htm Just Lamba website] whose [[Media:Bosch 0 258 003 229 details.jpg|details]] confirmed the Rover part appeared to have the right connector but that the lead length was 59cm. Never mind, 13 lines above it are the [[Media:Bosch 0 258 003 193 details.jpg|details]] for the 0 258 003 193 which has a lead length of 39cm. A further search of the part number throws up the [[Media:Mini O2 details.jpg|1300 Mk1 Mini]] from [http://www.seik.de/shop/search2.jsp?field=fulltext&Search=mini&from=20 Seik for €24].''

''The European Bosch reference for the O2 sensor would appear to be 0 258 003 193 from a 1300 Mini {although I've just noticed it's four wire not three wire and the pins are spade rather than round ... bugger!} These alternatives ''should'' work but will require the plug to be rewired '''Also very useful information at [http://www.lucaselectrical.co.uk/technicalinfo.html Lucas Electrical]'''''

There are some other possible replacements listed at OxygenSensors.com under: 
Year: 1991 
Make: Isuzu 
Model: Impulse 
Sub-Model: RS 
Engine: L4 cyl (1.6 L,1588) 

The exact drop-in replacements suggested are: 
Walker #250-23127 3-Wire 
Denso #234-3014 3-Wire 

{{warning|text=This site also lists a 'Universal' part #250-23000. Ignore this, as the fitting is not correct}}

== Replacement parts, UK Sourced ==
Added by JonT in Feb 2011.

Googling for the 15701 Sensor in the UK seems to go nowhere, but this site: [http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/1/554269-premium-oxygen-sensor-by-bosch-part-15701.html Advance Auto Parts] gives a long list of cars that use that particular sensor. Bosch [http://www.bosch-automotive-catalog.com/public/catalog/products have an online parts catalogue]. Using some of those cars suggested above (making sure you tick the "enlarge vehicle fleet to all countries") allows you to search for some of the cars on the list above. Taking say the Isuze Rodeo 2.6 gives part 0258003277 but that's only 340mm according to the Bosch site. Other than that, the plug looks right, and it's 3 wire. The Rodeo is also listed as using 0258005701. This is listed on the Bosch site as a 3 wire, 430mm O2 sensor, with a cross reference part number of 15701 - which is a direct fit as given above. Searching for the 10 digit part number on UK ebay produces a supplier (at a price!) who will supply a genuine 3 wire Bosch part. This seems to work as a direct fit with the correct connector with no extra work needed. Note that their auction page lists this as a 4 wire part (possibly because it's a 4 pin connector), but it's definitely the 3 wire part matching the part number that is supplied.

== Replacing ==
# Apply copious amounts of penetrating oil, heat and/or cold to get the old sensor out.
# Use an 18mm O2 sensor socket which has a slot up the side for the lead.
# Check that the thread in the exhaust system is clean and in good condition before attempting to install the new sensor. Don't drop any swarf into the pre-cat!
# Handle the sensor with care to prevent damage - dropping a sensor could inflict damage to the ceramic, which would not be apparent during installation.
# '''During production an anti-corrosion compound is applied to the threaded portion of the sensor body. This is a sensor friendly grease compound and no other anti-seize compounds should be used as they may contain ingredients that could poison the sensor elements. Do not use any other cleaning or anti-rust solvents near the sensor body as this could similarly affect the element.'''
# Remove the protection cap just prior to fitting. Screw the sensor into place by hand then tighten to the specified [[Torque settings]] ensuring that the wiring harness is not twisted as the sensor is screwed in.
# Secure the harness using the correct fixings, ensuring that the routing does not produce any kinks in the wires, touch any part of the exhaust system or other hot components and does not foul any rotating parts.
# Reconnect the harness connector.

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:Components]]

Oxygen (Lambda) sensor

2011-02-16T20:44:39Z

JonT:

== About ==
The Oxygen (02) Sensor monitors the amount of unburnt oxygen which passes out of the engine through the [[Exhaust|exhaust]] manifold. This reading is then used by the [[ECM]] to determine the correct input fuel mixture. It is not the only sensor that controls fuel mixture, but it is regarded as the 'primary' sensor, because ultimately whatever is exhausted from the engine is the 'actual' result of the burnt mix - whereas all the other sensors read pre-burn factors such as air and [[Coolant_Temperature_Sensor_(CTS)|coolant]] temperatures.

Oxygen Sensors only came into mainstream production use in the early-mid 90s, and hence not found on the N/A or SE Elan M100. However, it is possible to [[Converting_SE_to_closed_loop_ECU|convert the SE]] to use an O2 Sensor.

== Replacement parts - All 3 wire exact replacements ==

The following appear to be currently available exact drop in replacements:

Bosch 13277

Bosch 15701

Walker 250-23127

Denso 234-3014

== Replacement parts - Background ==

In the [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/repair/oxysens.htm LEC repairs area], Jade and Nitro identified the [[Media:Discount Auto -11039.jpg|Discount Auto #11039]] as a direct replacement for Fed Elans, Doug also identified the [[Media:Bosch -13277.jpg|Bosch #13277]] and Charlie the '''NGK #21012'''. Rockauto also list the Bosch #15701 as a direct replacement.

''Having dug around unsuccessfully on UK sites to find these part numbers, it looked like I was going to have to get one in from the US.''

''However, I happened upon one on a well known international auction site for a [[Media:Bosch 0 258 003 229.jpg|Rover 218 VVC]]. The only apparent difference is that the wires appear longer than the Elan's which are about 40cm long. Fortunately, a European Bosch number (10 numbers) was on the photograph so a quick search on 0 258 003 229 threw up the [http://www.lambdasensor.co.uk/main/mcrossref.htm Just Lamba website] whose [[Media:Bosch 0 258 003 229 details.jpg|details]] confirmed the Rover part appeared to have the right connector but that the lead length was 59cm. Never mind, 13 lines above it are the [[Media:Bosch 0 258 003 193 details.jpg|details]] for the 0 258 003 193 which has a lead length of 39cm. A further search of the part number throws up the [[Media:Mini O2 details.jpg|1300 Mk1 Mini]] from [http://www.seik.de/shop/search2.jsp?field=fulltext&Search=mini&from=20 Seik for €24].''

''The European Bosch reference for the O2 sensor would appear to be 0 258 003 193 from a 1300 Mini {although I've just noticed it's four wire not three wire and the pins are spade rather than round ... bugger!} These alternatives ''should'' work but will require the plug to be rewired '''Also very useful information at [http://www.lucaselectrical.co.uk/technicalinfo.html Lucas Electrical]'''''

There are some other possible replacements listed at OxygenSensors.com under: 
Year: 1991 
Make: Isuzu 
Model: Impulse 
Sub-Model: RS 
Engine: L4 cyl (1.6 L,1588) 

The exact drop-in replacements suggested are: 
Walker #250-23127 3-Wire 
Denso #234-3014 3-Wire 

{{warning|text=This site also lists a 'Universal' part #250-23000. Ignore this, as the fitting is not correct}}

== Replacement parts, UK Sourced ==
Added by JonT in Feb 2011.

Googling for the 15701 Sensor in the UK seems to go nowhere, but this site: [http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/1/554269-premium-oxygen-sensor-by-bosch-part-15701.html Advance Auto Parts] gives a long list of cars that use that particular sensor. Bosch [http://www.bosch-automotive-catalog.com/public/catalog/products have an online parts catalogue]. Using some of those cars suggested above (making sure you tick the "enlarge vehicle fleet to all countries") allows you to search for some of the cars on the list above. Taking say the Isuze Rodeo 2.6 gives part 0258003277 but that's only 340mm according to the Bosch site. Other than that, the plug looks right, and it's 3 wire. The Rodeo is also listed as using 0258005701. This is listed on the Bosch site as a 3 wire, 430mm O2 sensor, with a cross reference part number of 15701 - which is a direct fit as given above. Searching for the 10 digit part number on UK ebay produces a supplier (at a price!) who will supply a genuine 3 wire Bosch part. This seems to work as a direct fit with the correct connector with no extra work needed.

== Replacing ==
# Apply copious amounts of penetrating oil, heat and/or cold to get the old sensor out.
# Use an 18mm O2 sensor socket which has a slot up the side for the lead.
# Check that the thread in the exhaust system is clean and in good condition before attempting to install the new sensor. Don't drop any swarf into the pre-cat!
# Handle the sensor with care to prevent damage - dropping a sensor could inflict damage to the ceramic, which would not be apparent during installation.
# '''During production an anti-corrosion compound is applied to the threaded portion of the sensor body. This is a sensor friendly grease compound and no other anti-seize compounds should be used as they may contain ingredients that could poison the sensor elements. Do not use any other cleaning or anti-rust solvents near the sensor body as this could similarly affect the element.'''
# Remove the protection cap just prior to fitting. Screw the sensor into place by hand then tighten to the specified [[Torque settings]] ensuring that the wiring harness is not twisted as the sensor is screwed in.
# Secure the harness using the correct fixings, ensuring that the routing does not produce any kinks in the wires, touch any part of the exhaust system or other hot components and does not foul any rotating parts.
# Reconnect the harness connector.

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:Components]]

Oxygen (Lambda) sensor

2011-02-16T20:43:30Z

JonT: Added 10 digit Bosch part number for UK sourcing

== About ==
The Oxygen (02) Sensor monitors the amount of unburnt oxygen which passes out of the engine through the [[Exhaust|exhaust]] manifold. This reading is then used by the [[ECM]] to determine the correct input fuel mixture. It is not the only sensor that controls fuel mixture, but it is regarded as the 'primary' sensor, because ultimately whatever is exhausted from the engine is the 'actual' result of the burnt mix - whereas all the other sensors read pre-burn factors such as air and [[Coolant_Temperature_Sensor_(CTS)|coolant]] temperatures.

Oxygen Sensors only came into mainstream production use in the early-mid 90s, and hence not found on the N/A or SE Elan M100. However, it is possible to [[Converting_SE_to_closed_loop_ECU|convert the SE]] to use an O2 Sensor.

== Replacement parts - All 3 wire exact replacements ==

The following appear to be currently available exact drop in replacements:

Bosch 13277

Bosch 15701

Walker 250-23127

Denso 234-3014

== Replacement parts - Background ==

In the [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/repair/oxysens.htm LEC repairs area], Jade and Nitro identified the [[Media:Discount Auto -11039.jpg|Discount Auto #11039]] as a direct replacement for Fed Elans, Doug also identified the [[Media:Bosch -13277.jpg|Bosch #13277]] and Charlie the '''NGK #21012'''. Rockauto also list the Bosch #15701 as a direct replacement.

''Having dug around unsuccessfully on UK sites to find these part numbers, it looked like I was going to have to get one in from the US.''

''However, I happened upon one on a well known international auction site for a [[Media:Bosch 0 258 003 229.jpg|Rover 218 VVC]]. The only apparent difference is that the wires appear longer than the Elan's which are about 40cm long. Fortunately, a European Bosch number (10 numbers) was on the photograph so a quick search on 0 258 003 229 threw up the [http://www.lambdasensor.co.uk/main/mcrossref.htm Just Lamba website] whose [[Media:Bosch 0 258 003 229 details.jpg|details]] confirmed the Rover part appeared to have the right connector but that the lead length was 59cm. Never mind, 13 lines above it are the [[Media:Bosch 0 258 003 193 details.jpg|details]] for the 0 258 003 193 which has a lead length of 39cm. A further search of the part number throws up the [[Media:Mini O2 details.jpg|1300 Mk1 Mini]] from [http://www.seik.de/shop/search2.jsp?field=fulltext&Search=mini&from=20 Seik for €24].''

''The European Bosch reference for the O2 sensor would appear to be 0 258 003 193 from a 1300 Mini {although I've just noticed it's four wire not three wire and the pins are spade rather than round ... bugger!} These alternatives ''should'' work but will require the plug to be rewired '''Also very useful information at [http://www.lucaselectrical.co.uk/technicalinfo.html Lucas Electrical]'''''

There are some other possible replacements listed at OxygenSensors.com under: 
Year: 1991 
Make: Isuzu 
Model: Impulse 
Sub-Model: RS 
Engine: L4 cyl (1.6 L,1588) 

The exact drop-in replacements suggested are: 
Walker #250-23127 3-Wire 
Denso #234-3014 3-Wire 

{{warning|text=This site also lists a 'Universal' part #250-23000. Ignore this, as the fitting is not correct}}

== Replacement parts, UK Sourced ==
Added by JonT in Feb 2011.

Googling for the 15701 Sensor in the UK seems to go nowhere, but this site: [http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/1/1/554269-premium-oxygen-sensor-by-bosch-part-15701.html Advance Auto Parts] gives a long list of cars that use that particular sensor. Bosch [http://www.bosch-automotive-catalog.com/public/catalog/products have an online parts catalogue]. Using some of those cars suggested above (making sure you tick the "enlarge vehicle fleet to all countries") allows you to search for some of the cars on the list above. Taking say the Isuze Rodeo 2.6 uses this gives part 0258003277 but that's only 340mm according to the Bosch site. Wiring looks right, 3 wire. The Rodeo is also listed as using 0258005701. This is listed on the Bosch site as a 3 wire, 430mm O2 sensor, with a cross reference part number of 15701 - which is a direct fit as given above. Searching for the 10 digit part number on UK ebay produces a supplier (at a price!) who will supply a genuine 3 wire Bosch part. This seems to work as a direct fit with the correct connector with no extra work needed.

== Replacing ==
# Apply copious amounts of penetrating oil, heat and/or cold to get the old sensor out.
# Use an 18mm O2 sensor socket which has a slot up the side for the lead.
# Check that the thread in the exhaust system is clean and in good condition before attempting to install the new sensor. Don't drop any swarf into the pre-cat!
# Handle the sensor with care to prevent damage - dropping a sensor could inflict damage to the ceramic, which would not be apparent during installation.
# '''During production an anti-corrosion compound is applied to the threaded portion of the sensor body. This is a sensor friendly grease compound and no other anti-seize compounds should be used as they may contain ingredients that could poison the sensor elements. Do not use any other cleaning or anti-rust solvents near the sensor body as this could similarly affect the element.'''
# Remove the protection cap just prior to fitting. Screw the sensor into place by hand then tighten to the specified [[Torque settings]] ensuring that the wiring harness is not twisted as the sensor is screwed in.
# Secure the harness using the correct fixings, ensuring that the routing does not produce any kinks in the wires, touch any part of the exhaust system or other hot components and does not foul any rotating parts.
# Reconnect the harness connector.

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:Components]]

Instrument panel dimmer knob removal

2011-02-15T20:59:29Z

JonT:

The knob actually has a lid cap on the front (the area where they screened the graphic icon). They did too good a job there, so you can't really see the gap -- unlike on the dash, panels, etc.

With a lot of luck, and a really tiny flat head screw driver (jewellery type) or scalpel blade, you might be able to open the lid without damaging the knob.

There's a nut holding it inside. You could tighten it up once you have the cap opened. To get the lid out is the tricky part.

Once this has been removed, you can see the potentiometer shaft behind. If the potentiometer is suspect, Farnell offer an almost identical replacement part: [http://uk.farnell.com/vishay-sfernice/pe30l0fl103kab/potentiometer-10k/dp/1141587?Ntt=1141587 Farnell UK link]. In case this link stops working, it's manufactured by Vishay-Sfernice and their part number is PE30L0FL103KAB
It can be seen side by side with the original here (original part on the left):

[[Image:Dash_pot_alternate.jpg]]

The threaded section is slightly larger diameter than the original, while the end of the spindle is marginally narrower. It comes with a panel mounting nut and washer so this difference doesn't matter. The narrower spindle can be overcome by wrapping the end of the spindle with a single turn of electrical tape. This allows the knob to grip it properly.

To remove the potentiometer from the dash, remove the instrument binnacle cover. The potentiometer connector can be seen in this photo through the windscreen (circled in red):
[[Image:Dash_pot_removal.jpg]]

In my car this was taped with electrical tape to a parallel section of wire - the tape can be carefully pulled off or cut, being careful not to nick any other wires.

With the nut on the front of the panel removed, and the connector free, the potentiometer can the be removed:
[[Image:Dash_pot.jpg]]

Carefully remove the heatshrink from the connectors, then desolder the wires. One or more may already be loose - explaining any problems!

Follow the wiring diagram [http://wikilec.9600.org/images/4/44/MJ25-22_Rheostat_and_Panel_Illumination.gif here] when re-soldering the new potentiometer - the connectors are all the in same place as the old one so can easily be transposed across.

Refitting is reverse of removal!

[[Category:HowTo]]

Instrument panel dimmer knob removal

2011-02-15T20:58:31Z

JonT:

Instrument panel dimmer knob removal

2011-02-15T20:58:11Z

JonT: Added instructions for replacing potentiometer with alternate part

The knob actually has a lid cap on the front (the area where they screened the graphic icon). They did too good a job there, so you can't really see the gap -- unlike on the dash, panels, etc.

With a lot of luck, and a really tiny flat head screw driver (jewellery type) or scalpel blade, you might be able to open the lid without damaging the knob.

There's a nut holding it inside. You could tighten it up once you have the cap opened. To get the lid out is the tricky part.

Once this has been removed, you can see the potentiometer shaft behind. If the potentiometer is suspect, Farnell offer an almost identical replacement part: [http://uk.farnell.com/vishay-sfernice/pe30l0fl103kab/potentiometer-10k/dp/1141587?Ntt=1141587 Farnell UK link]. In case this link stops working, it's manufactured by Vishay-Sfernice and their part number is PE30L0FL103KAB
It can be seen side by side with the original here (original part on the left):
[[Image:Dash_pot_alternate.jpg]]

The threaded section is slightly larger diameter than the original, while the end of the spindle is marginally narrower. It comes with a panel mounting nut and washer so this difference doesn't matter. The narrower spindle can be overcome by wrapping the end of the spindle with a single turn of electrical tape. This allows the knob to grip it properly.

To remove the potentiometer from the dash, remove the instrument binnacle cover. The potentiometer connector can be seen in this photo through the windscreen (circled in red):
[[Image:Dash_pot_removal.jpg]]

In my car this was taped with electrical tape to a parallel section of wire - the tape can be carefully pulled off or cut, being careful not to nick any other wires.

With the nut on the front of the panel removed, and the connector free, the potentiometer can the be removed:
[[Image:Dash_pot.jpg]]

Carefully remove the heatshrink from the connectors, then desolder the wires. One or more may already be loose - explaining any problems!

Follow the wiring diagram [http://wikilec.9600.org/images/4/44/MJ25-22_Rheostat_and_Panel_Illumination.gif here] when re-soldering the new potentiometer - the connectors are all the in same place as the old one so can easily be transposed across.

[[Category:HowTo]]

File:Dash pot alternate.jpg

2011-02-15T20:57:18Z

JonT: Showing original dash lighting potentiometer with alternative replacement from Farnell

Showing original dash lighting potentiometer with alternative replacement from Farnell

File:Dash pot.jpg

2011-02-15T20:55:03Z

JonT: Picture of dash lighting potentiometer removed

Picture of dash lighting potentiometer removed

File:Dash pot removal.jpg

2011-02-15T20:53:44Z

JonT: Dash binnacle cover removed showing dash lighting potentiometer connector

Dash binnacle cover removed showing dash lighting potentiometer connector

Radiator Fan Thermal Switch

2011-02-10T09:42:45Z

JonT: Added warning note about 323 possibly being wrong

== Info ==

One terminal in block M16 x 1.5 ~104-110°C {~219-230°F} N/O

== US Alternatives ==

[http://www.rodneydickman.com/n20.html Dickman standard and low temperature switches]

== UK Alternatives ==

Reference: http://www.adapart.eu/katalog/100.pdf

=== Normal temperature (M16 x 1.5 103-107°C {217-225°F} N/O) ===

[[image:Radiator_Fans_Temperature_Switch_-_ADAPART_Catalogue.gif|400px]]

'''Sources'''

* Interpoint/Intermotor 50399

[[Image:Radiator_Fans_Temperature_Switch_(Intermotor).gif|100px]]

* Ford E92Z-10884-A

* Mazda F202-18-840A

* Motorcraft SWE-2165

'''Applications'''

MAZDA 626 2.0
MAZDA 626 2.2
MAZDA 626 Coupe 2.2
MAZDA 626 Estate/Wagon 2.2
MAZDA RX7 2.6

=== Possible low temperature version (M16 x 1.5 92-97°C {198-207°F} N/O) ===

For those that worry about the fans coming on at 110°C {230°F}(made worse by the mis-match between CTS and gauge) the following '''''may''''' be a low temperature alternative

This thread http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=18621 suggests that the alternatives may not work!

[[Image:Radiator_Fans_Temperature_Switch_(Low_Temp)_-_ADAPART_Catalogue.gif|400px]]

'''Sources'''

* OEM 071400-4881

* FAE 3666

* KIA (OEM) ON35018840

'''Applications'''

MAZDA 121 1.3, 1.3 I. (EU) ( 1991-> )
MAZDA 323 1.3 I EGI (OHC) ( 1991-94 )
MAZDA 323 1.6 I EGI. (OHC) (EU) ( 1991-94 )
MAZDA 323 1.6 I OHC (USA) ( 1990-> )
MAZDA 323 1.7 DIESEL (EU) ( 1991-> )
MAZDA 323 1.8 OHC, DOHC. (EU) ( 1991-> )
MAZDA 323 1.8 TURBO DOHC ( 1991-> )
MAZDA 626 1.6, 1.8. (EU) ( 1987-90 )
MAZDA 626 2.0 OHC (EU) ( 1987-90 )
MAZDA 626 2.0, 2.0 I. (DOHC) (EU) ( 1987-90 )
MAZDA 626 2.2 I (USA) ( 1990-92 )
MAZDA 626 2.2 I 2WD, 4WD. (EU) ( 1987-90 )
MAZDA 626 2.2 I TURBO (USA) ( 1990-92 )
MAZDA MIATA 1.6 I (USA) ( 1990-93 )
MAZDA MX-6 2.2 I (USA) ( 1990-92 )
MAZDA MX-6 2.2 I TURBO (USA) ( 1990-92 )