== Removal ==

This is a quick write up for upgrading the Fuel Injectors to the RC PL8 550 Injectors for the Turbo upgrade. I used the write up by David R. Meyers which is in the Upgrade link on the LEC homepage [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/upgrade/injectorswap.htm] and as there is only one photo thought I'd post my photos here to help others in the future.
So I'm just going to use Dave's write up with my photo's (hope he doesn`t mine)

Tools Needed:

10mm socket

12mm socket

Socket extension

Needle-nose pliers

Die pick (I used a thin flat screwdriver)

A long, standard screwdriver

T-27 Torx bit

RC Injectors can be bought direct from [http://www.rceng.com/]

The RC PL8-550 (Bosch Style Top) compared to the stock injector

[[Image:RC PL8-550 vs Stock Injector.jpg]]

RC Engineering's replacement for the stock injector is part number PL2-320 (Peak and Hold, Bosch connector, 320 cc/min)

Before removing any parts, you must relieve pressure form the fuel system. While the car is running, pull the fuse for the fuel pump (I tripped the Inertia switch). After it stalls, crank the engine for a few seconds to remove as much remaining fuel from the fuel rail. Then perform the following steps:

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Remove the (2) 10mm bolts holding the black plastic wire cover.

3. Remove the small wire clips that hold the plastic electrical connectors to the injectors. This is possibly the toughest part of the job. Use the die pick in conjunction with the needle-nose pliers or a standard screwdriver. Be careful of the small plastic tab at the front of the connector. Also, do not drop the clips.

[[Image:Injector wire loom clip.JPG]]

4. Slide the metal clips holding the injector to the fuel rail from left to right. Push first on the front part of the clip, then the rear with the long screwdriver.

[[Image:Injector fuel rail clip.JPG]]

[[Image:Fuel rail clip 1.JPG]]

5. Remove the fuel pressure regulator. A T-27 Torx screw and gently pry the regulator off the end of the fuel rail. It is held in by an O-ring. Mine was in there rather securely. Have an old rag underneath before removing as some gas will spill out from the rail.

[[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator 1.JPG]]

[[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator.JPG]]

6. Remove the (2) 12mm fuel rail bolts.

7. Carefully push the fuel rail up. The injectors are held in place now only by their O-rings, but they will be solidly in place. Work slow, maybe first at one end of the rail, then the other and it will pop up. (they were that solid I had to use a pry bar to remove the injectors)

8. Remove the injectors. They will still be attached either in the rail or in the intake. Either pull or *gently* pry them out. (again I had to use the pry bar to remove the injectors from the fuel rail)

Before installing new injectors, compare them to the stock injectors. Make sure the o-rings are the same size; the distance between top and bottom o-rings is the same; and overall construction is similar. If all appear fine:

1. Lightly coat the new injectors’ O-rings in motor oil to aid installation. Push the injectors into the fuel rail first.

2. Attach/slide the clips that hold the injectors onto the fuel rail.

[[Image:RC injector & clip.JPG]]

3. Carefully line up the injectors into the plenum and gently push down on the rail until the bolt holes line up.
Replace the (2) 12mm fuel rail bolts.

4. Lightly coat the fuel pressure regulator O-ring with motor oil and push into the end of the rail. Replace the T-27 Torx bolt.

5. Carefully replace the small clips and plug the electrical connectors onto the injectors. The clips should snap into position when the connector is fully located.

6. Replace the wire cover and connect the (2) 10mm bolts.

7. Connect the battery.

8. Turn the ignition key to the accessory position to prime the fuel pump. Check for any leaks.
Start the car. Check for any leaks.

[[Image:RC Injectors installed.JPG]]

== O-rings ==

Added by ashm 10/04/2022:

Fuel injector O-rings can degrade and start to leak over time, which can cause quite an impressive spray of fuel from the fuel rail connection when pressurised.
Rockauto lists replacement O-rings as 0.296" ID x 0.574" OD, 0.139" CS (cross section) or 7.52mm ID x 14.58mm OD, 3.53mm CS. Although these may appear to be a very strange size (and certainly not metric), they are in fact a British Standard O-ring: searching for BS 203 makes things a lot easier.
I believe the correct material should be Viton as it has good compatibility with petroleum. However it is only borderline tolerant of ethanol, which is increasingly included in standard fuel. NBR rubber is fairly compatible with both petroleum and ethanol, so may actually be a better option if you plan to run high ethanol fuel, but it may be inferior to Viton in other ways. Personally I'm sticking with Viton.

2020-10-04T15:45:04Z

2020-08-25T11:12:26Z

Geoff: Removed the original section on using glue sticks

=== Symptoms ===

When attempting to turn-on, there’s a lot of whining, then you don’t always manage to get it up, at least not all the way, conversely, after it’s been up and shining then it’s turned-off, it goes down with a bang and the whining continues after it’s tucked back in it’s resting place. Sounds familiar ? ...

An intermittent head light motor

http://s615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/Elan_SE/?action=view&current=100_1236.mp4

=== Spares ===
The Lotus part number for a complete motor repair kit is A082M6706S.

Where to get the spares to repair your broken motors: http://www.rodneydickman.com/

Update, SJ Lotus now do a similar kit:

SJ082M0033 OVERHAUL KIT for HEADLAMP MOTORS, Includes drive rollers, gaskets, screws and instructions. Sufficient for a pair of motors.

SJ082M0034 Plastic drive gear as opposed to an upgraded rodneydickman metal vareient.

13/6/17:

- Kelvedon Lotus appear to be offering the Lotus kit at a bargain price.

- Wayne Broadley has produced a spares kit which you can order directly or via ebay:
- http://elanm100.com/web-shop
- http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Lotus-Elan-M100-SE-S2-Headlight-Motor-repair-kit-/282504480751?hash=item41c69447ef:g:PIkAAOSwezVWzu8f

What you will get in a new rodneydickman kit...

[[Image:Light Motors 1.jpg]]

[[Image:Full_light_motor.jpg‎ ]]

After removing the the Headlamp Motor from the car, it is pretty simple to remove the three screws ‘A’ (English size I recall) holding the Gear Drive Cover to access the Plastic Driven Gear which was the root of my Headlamps impotence. To remove this Gear, I found that it was necessary to raise the Motor Housing by taking the two retaining screws 'B' out and lifting the Motor about ¼ inch, at which point the Motor’s two spring-loaded Carbon Brushes step off the Commutator and come to rest on a smaller diameter section of the Motor Shaft, but at least you can now remove the Plastic Gear and begin the repair.

'''WARNING: If you remove the motor completely, make sure it is replaced in the same orientation otherwise you will end up with winking or inverse headlights - the pod will be raised when the headlight is off and will descend when the headlight is on!'''

=== Headlamp Motor Fix ===

(part 2)

First, identify which side is having trouble. They utilize the same repair kit, but the left side requires a bit more work (this has to do w/ the brush installation on the armature - I'll explain this later).

The part is in kit form -- "for repairing Ford/Chrysler power windows." I found them locally for $14.95/Kit.
Good Luck!

[[Image:TorquePinKit.jpg]]

Just read this very slowly and carefully.
It will make sense if you think about it....

LEFT SIDE:
1. Jack up vehicle / Remove wheel / Remove plastic inner
fender. The inner fender is held by (3-4) 10mm bolts
in the arch of the well and (3) Phillips #2 screws on
the underside. The inner fender can now be pulled out.

2. Open hood / Remove (2) 10mm bolts behind the
headlight housing. Be sure to count the shims/washers
under each bolt because they will fall out. Doing
this will make adjustments a lot easier!

3. Remove 10mm bolt retaining connecting rod at the
light motor. (see pic below - "Removal Top View")

[[Image:RemovalTopView.jpg]]

4. Remove (2) 8mm bolts anchoring the motor unit from
inner fender. (see pic at right - "Motor Removal")

[[Image:MotorRemoval.jpg]]

5. The motor is now free to be removed from the vehicle.

6. The motor should be disassembled on a towel - to
catch small pieces (small springs/bolts).

7. Remove the large bracket from the unit 8mm nut and
bolt. Remove the 10mm bolt on the drive arm. The arm
can be removed by clamping in a vise and taping the
center bolt with a small hammer.

8. Remove the (3) 1/4" bolts on the other side. Upon
removal of this cover - it'll reveal the mysterious
granules. Remove the (2) 1/4" bolts retaining the
housing for the Armature (Don't lose the (2) springs
behind the brushes!!!) Upon removal of the Armature
shaft -- the white plastic sprocket is free to be
removed from the housing.

9. Clean the parts with compressed air, insert the new
torque pins and re-lube the sprocket with grease. Insert
the sprocket back into the housing. (see pic below - "Torque Pins")

[[Image:TorquePins.jpg]]

10. Here's the tricky (hard) part. Get a strand of wire
- can be found in a stripped length of speaker wire
(see pic - "Torque Pins"). Holding the motor housing in
one hand / Insert the (2) springs in the slots near the
brushes. (see pic at below - "Brushes")

[[Image:Brushes.jpg]]

11. With the strand of wire / Make a loop around the
brush and insert the brush into the slot (see pic - "Brushes")
Do the same with the other side.

12. While pulling the brush back w/ the loop of
wire/Slide Armature into the housing/When fully
inserted, remove wire by pulling on one side of the
loop/Do this on the other side/Attach (2) 1/4" bolts.

13. Position sprocket cover and install (3) 1/4"
bolts/Attach large bracket to motor housing.

14. Place motor back into vehicle and install all
bolts removed (just reverse the removal procedure).

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:Components]]

Reversing light switch

2020-08-19T20:56:12Z

Geoff: Created page with "== Location == Accessible from the top of the engine: 150px == Donor vehicles == Chevrolet Spectrum 1985 - 1988 Geo Spect..."

== Location ==

Accessible from the top of the engine:

[[File:Disconnectreversinglightswitch-1-.jpg | 150px]]

== Donor vehicles ==

Chevrolet Spectrum 1985 - 1988

Geo Spectrum 1989

Geo Storm 1990 - 1993

Isuzu I-Mark 1985 - 1989

Isuzu Impulse 1989 - 1992

Isuzu Stylus 1991 - 1993

== Cross References ==

=== OEM ===

[[File:Reversing_Light_Switch_OEM.PNG | 150px]]

GM 89057288

Isuzu 8-94132-638-0

=== Others ===

[[File:Reversing_Light_Switch.PNG | 150px]]

AC Delco E2225D

Napa NS5863

Standard Motor Products LS292

File:Reversing Light Switch.PNG

2020-08-19T20:53:58Z

Geoff:

File:Reversing Light Switch OEM.PNG

2020-08-19T20:52:43Z

Geoff: