WikiLEC - User contributions [en]

Parts Cross-references by Vehicle Model

2023-05-06T12:29:49Z

Fredjohn:

Please add any you know to this list. Add UK/European cross-references too.

All drive belts, including timing belt excluding Alternator belt-->1991 Isuzu Impulse. Alternator belt is one size smaller than Impulse - Reference: 275K4

Front brake pads-->Pontiac Lemans, 1988-1993 Front, 1988 Pontiac Fiero

Rear brake pads-->1991 Chevy Lumina

Front brake disks-->Vauxhall Astra, 1989 Pontiac LeMans

Front brake calipers-->1981-1988 Opel, Vauxhall with Delco system. 1980-1991 Astra, 1989 Pontiac LeMans

Rear Wheel Bearings-->1985-1998 VW Jetta GL, VW Golf 1984-1992 (MK1), 1992-1998 (MK3) (However, the oil seal that comes with this kit is not the correct one. The following oil seal is required: GM part number 90217059 or Vauxhall Corsa 1983-1993 rear wheel bearing kit.)

Coolant Temperature Sensor-->Pontiac Fiero, Isuzu Impulse RS and Geo Storm, Isuzu Trooper (1986-7 with 2.3l engine and 1992-2001 with 3.2l & 3.5l V6 engines)

Radiator fans thermal switch-->1988 Pontiac Fiero

Radiator Cooling Fans-->Renault 25 AR4 Automatic transmission, Renault Trafic II, Renault Trafic III

Headlight motors-->Pontiac Sunbird GT

A/C Compressor -->1989 Isuzu I-Mark L4 1.6L F.I. It is a Diesel Kiki DKS-13G with a 5 grooved pulley.

A/C blower motor-->1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse

A/C Drier UAC RD6166C

Alternator-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Oil filler cap-->Honda works

Oil filter-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Most engine gaskets-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS

Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (MAP)-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS, Lotus Carlton, 1990 Pontiac Sunbird. For other references (1 Bar, 2 Bar, 3 Bar sensors), see [http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/component_info/sensors.html this cross-reference list.]

Starter-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Horn button switches (Fed Elan)-->1990-1992 Chevy Camaro, Pontiac Firebird

Ignition Coils-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS (the list of GM cars is extensive, [http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductGuide.aspx?mfrcode=BOR&mfrpartnumber=E51 PartsAmerica Coil xref])

O2 sensor-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

CV Boots-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Thermostat-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo, Any 1000cc Mini 1969-1992

Heater valve--> Holden (AUS) Commodore, Volvo 740 and similar; Fiat Spyder

Heater control--> Holden (AUS) Commodore - [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=15590 LEC discussion]

Fuel Pressure Regulator-->1992-1996 Chevrolet Corvette

Fuel Pump--> 1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo. (The mountings are slightly different, and will require some "rigging," but it's supposed to be a relatively easy job.)

Idle Air Control Vavle-->[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=16687]

Lower Steering Column U-Joint A100H0050F --> Land Rover Defender Lower Steering UJ NRC7704 (See here[http://kact.co.uk/lec/lower_steering_u_joint.jpg] for photo)

Ignition Starter Switch: AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1S6210 {#4971498, 7848744, LS589} on Rockauto.com

Ball joint boots --> "TRACK ROD END BOOTS X4 FITS MASSEY FERGUSON T20 35 135" frequently available on ebay.

Fuel Pump - 1992 Corvette - Spectra Premium SP1120 has wiring connectors included.

Parts Cross-references by Vehicle Model

2023-05-06T12:29:13Z

Fredjohn:

Please add any you know to this list. Add UK/European cross-references too.

All drive belts, including timing belt excluding Alternator belt-->1991 Isuzu Impulse. Alternator belt is one size smaller than Impulse - Reference: 275K4

Front brake pads-->Pontiac Lemans, 1988-1993 Front, 1988 Pontiac Fiero

Rear brake pads-->1991 Chevy Lumina

Front brake disks-->Vauxhall Astra, 1989 Pontiac LeMans

Front brake calipers-->1981-1988 Opel, Vauxhall with Delco system. 1980-1991 Astra, 1989 Pontiac LeMans

Rear Wheel Bearings-->1985-1998 VW Jetta GL, VW Golf 1984-1992 (MK1), 1992-1998 (MK3) (However, the oil seal that comes with this kit is not the correct one. The following oil seal is required: GM part number 90217059 or Vauxhall Corsa 1983-1993 rear wheel bearing kit.)

Coolant Temperature Sensor-->Pontiac Fiero, Isuzu Impulse RS and Geo Storm, Isuzu Trooper (1986-7 with 2.3l engine and 1992-2001 with 3.2l & 3.5l V6 engines)

Radiator fans thermal switch-->1988 Pontiac Fiero

Radiator Cooling Fans-->Renault 25 AR4 Automatic transmission, Renault Trafic II, Renault Trafic III

Headlight motors-->Pontiac Sunbird GT

A/C Compressor -->1989 Isuzu I-Mark L4 1.6L F.I. It is a Diesel Kiki DKS-13G with a 5 grooved pulley.

A/C blower motor-->1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse
A/C Drier UAC RD6166C

Alternator-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Oil filler cap-->Honda works

Oil filter-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Most engine gaskets-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS

Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (MAP)-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS, Lotus Carlton, 1990 Pontiac Sunbird. For other references (1 Bar, 2 Bar, 3 Bar sensors), see [http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/component_info/sensors.html this cross-reference list.]

Starter-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Horn button switches (Fed Elan)-->1990-1992 Chevy Camaro, Pontiac Firebird

Ignition Coils-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS (the list of GM cars is extensive, [http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductGuide.aspx?mfrcode=BOR&mfrpartnumber=E51 PartsAmerica Coil xref])

O2 sensor-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

CV Boots-->1991 Isuzu Impulse

Thermostat-->1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo, Any 1000cc Mini 1969-1992

Heater valve--> Holden (AUS) Commodore, Volvo 740 and similar; Fiat Spyder

Heater control--> Holden (AUS) Commodore - [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=15590 LEC discussion]

Fuel Pressure Regulator-->1992-1996 Chevrolet Corvette

Fuel Pump--> 1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo. (The mountings are slightly different, and will require some "rigging," but it's supposed to be a relatively easy job.)

Idle Air Control Vavle-->[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=16687]

Lower Steering Column U-Joint A100H0050F --> Land Rover Defender Lower Steering UJ NRC7704 (See here[http://kact.co.uk/lec/lower_steering_u_joint.jpg] for photo)

Ignition Starter Switch: AIRTEX / WELLS Part # 1S6210 {#4971498, 7848744, LS589} on Rockauto.com

Ball joint boots --> "TRACK ROD END BOOTS X4 FITS MASSEY FERGUSON T20 35 135" frequently available on ebay.

Fuel Pump - 1992 Corvette - Spectra Premium SP1120 has wiring connectors included.

Headlamps

2021-11-22T11:38:13Z

Fredjohn:

__TOC__

== Replacement headlamps ==

=== Incandescent ===

Can be sourced from Lotus, but expensive, if still available.
An aftermarket type made by Durite seem to work fine, and are much cheaper.

Durite Dipped Beam 042275 £9.30 + vat approx

Durite Main Beam 042276 £9.30 + vat approx

<center>[[Image:Durite.jpg]]</center>

Part numbers quoted for dipped units are suitable for right hand drive cars only, left hand drive suitable units are available I believe, but I don't have part numbers.

I managed to source mine from my local motor factors, they had to order them, but availablity wasn't a problem, however, may not be the case in other areas. The company below have been known to mail order supply these lamps, so worth giving them a try:

DB Auto Electrical Supplies
3 West Bawtry Road
Rotherham
S60 2XG
01709 377418

If you change the light units to the Durite items then you'll also need to change the outer dipped headlamp bulb plug on the headlamp wires as they take a differnt bulb (H4 rather than H1, same as the high beam), easy to get and do, just ensure you wire to the correct bulb terminal, i.e. the other one from the high beam as connected to the standard high beam plug on the inner headlamp units.

The lamps themselves will also not quite fit into the plastic retainer ring, one of the location lugs is not quite in the right place. There's two options; either cut off the lug, or cut the plastic retaining ring to suit. A Dremel or similar is useful here.

=== LED ===

PNM have developed an LED replacement kit and others are looking into cheaper versions.

==== Pod lift module issues with LED headlights====

One of the issues with LED replacements is that the electrical load of the LED units is not sufficient to trigger the lift module and the headlights stay in the raised position. The problem has been solved by PNM who include a resistor (of unknown value) inside one of the headlight modules. The quick fix solution would be to add a resistor equal to the headlight resistance across the LED units: This is guaranteed to work, however it requires a 4 ohm resistor rated at more than 50W!

The path to ground (through the headlight filaments) is required to activate the relay which drives the headlight motors in the pod lift module. I have investigated the current required to reliably operate the module (between 100 & 120 ohms off the battery (12V) and between 120 & 150 ohms with the engine running) so 100 ohms will provide a reliable solution. Absolute maximum power dissipation (battery charging voltage of 14.4V) will be exceed 2 W so a 3 or 5 W resistor will suffice. Mark Elvin has successfully trialled a 100 ohm 5 W resistor with LED headlights and pod operation appears to be consistent.

Geoff 27/10/2020

== Rust ==

=== Rusty rings ===

If your headlamps look like these, then you need new rings, and probably new headlamps too.
However, the rings are no longer available from Lotus, and the headlamps, if you can get them, are currently about £85 each.

<center>[[Image:Post-2-1258802951.jpg]]</center>

=== Replacement retaining rings ===

==== Rimmer replacements ====

Replacement headlamp retaining rings are no longer available from Lotus.
However, a very good similar type is available as used on the Triumph Dolomite Sprint, and are currently available from Rimmer Brothers:

Single item £12.48 inc VAT http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-511598A

Set of 4 £40.25 inc VAT http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-511598AK

<center>[[Image:511598A.jpg]]</center>

They're not perfect, but at least they're the right diameter, 2 of the 3 lugs will line up, the third is not used and needs to be cut off, also a small amount of trimming is required, so I attacked them with a Dremel. Where the third lug is removed an alternative mounting needs to be made, I drilled through the side and screwed into the plastic ring. A bit of ingenuity is required!

While replacing the headlamps or rings, you'll also find the small screws that retain the entire assembly to the headlamp pods have probably rusted, if these snap off while removing them or require drilling out, they are M4 thread, and replacements should be 20mm non-countersunk screws, I used stainless socket heads. Fairly easy job to drill the remains out from the locating plates and retap. The adjusting screws going through the springs seem to survive and don't require replacing.

==== Plastic 3D printed replacements ====

Added 1/7/2017 by donsladek - Plastic replacements are now available courtesy of 1kenobitoby on LEC through Shapeways:

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/1kenobitoby

=== Rusty fixings and springs ===

A full stainless fitting kit (including custom stainless springs) were made available on LEC.

== Headlamp fitting picture guide ==

LEC member MattDon has compiled a simple pictorial guide showing how the new lamp units fit to the old plastic retainer rings.

[http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v208/matt_d_78/?action=view&current=22e49083.pbw Pictorial guide]

'''Durite update from Tuga2112(Jaoa) Nov 2021'''

Cross Reference:
Durite 0-422-75, Ring R8731, Hella 1M3534LSA001, Wipac S8100 & LA1016

Durite 0-422-76, Ring R8712, Hella 1M3114178001, Cibie 082369

{{note|text=Photos supplied by Don.Hasi and RayD}}

[[User:Cutlea01|Cutlea01]] 18:29, 22 November 2009 (UTC)

CO pot

2016-08-17T15:45:22Z

Fredjohn:

== Details ==

The CO (Carbon monoxide) potentiometer is an [[Electronic_Control_Unit_(ECU)|ECU]] adjustment to set the correct levels of CO at idle for those engines running open loop (i.e. no [[Oxygen_(Lambda)_sensor|Oxygen / O2 / Lambda sensor]]). NOTE: The Turbo and NA CO pots are different!

== Turbo CO pot (A100E6151F) ==

A 20 turn 10kohm potentiometer with a series 270R resistor connected between pins 1 and 3 and connected to pins A11 (ground) and B12 (ANASPRI) of the [[Electronic_Control_Unit_(ECU)|ECU]]. Turning the CO pot anti(counter) clockwise reduces the resistance and consequently the voltage read by the [[Electronic_Control_Unit_(ECU)|ECU]] but not apparently the voltage reported by [[ElanScan]] as this always seems to be 2V, however it may be different in service mode.

EDIT ADDED: Turn the screw clockwise to make it richer/raise the CO reading, anti(counter) clockwise to make it leaner/lower the CO reading. (Fredjohn Aug 2016)

== NA CO pot (A100E6224F) ==

Unknown except all three pins are connected and used by the [[Electronic_Control_Unit_(ECU)|ECU]] via pins A11 (ground), B8 (ANASPRI) and C14 (5V) - if anyone has a spare, Geoff would be interested to see it!

[[Category:Incomplete]]
[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:Components]]

CO adjustment

2016-08-17T15:42:27Z

Fredjohn:

Make sure the car is warm before you start

Put it into service mode - start the car first, then put in the paperclip (otherwise it is in diagnostic mode).

To locate the [[CO_pot|CO pot]]:-

open the glovebox, swing it all the way down by easing the catch past the lip on the dashboard, so it swings right down. If you haven't already emptied the glovebox, it will do it for you at this point :D .

Locate the [[ECU]] (metal box, approx 7" x 4" x 2" with a couple of multi-pin plugs in the right-hand side as you view it from the passenger seat/footwell).

The [[ECU]] does not need to be removed (but it is easier to get to the [[CO_pot|CO pot]] if you do) - to remove it, loosen the 2 x 10mm bolts at the bottom, then ease it forward (towards you) out of its frame.

The actual [[CO_pot|CO pot]] is a blue rectangular thing secured to the [[ECU]] frame by one of the Philips screws which holds the frame to the dashboard. It is about 2" x 1" x 1/2" and had a plug on one end which has 2 (Turbo) or 3 (NA) wires going into the loom.

On the [[CO_pot|CO pot]] is a small slotted screw which is the adjustment.

There are no 'end stops' on the screw, so it will keep on turning, past where the movement makes any difference to the settings.

There are about 20 full turns of adjustment in the pot, so a small movement may make little difference. (just remember to count how many turns you have made so it can be put back as it was if you need to!)

Personally, I found it easiest to remove the pot from the frame, adjust it, and then re-fix it again, but if you have very dexterous fingers, I suppose it is possible to do it all in situ without moving the [[ECU]].

EDIT ADDED: Turn the screw clockwise to make it richer/raise the CO reading, anti(counter) clockwise to make it leaner/lower the CO reading. (Fredjohn Aug 2016)

I used a Gunsons Gastester digital, which is straightforward to use, but takes about 10 minutes to 'warm up' before you can do any adjusting - just the right amount of time to check/re-set the base timing and engine idle speeds.

Once it has warmed up, and is calibrated, the readings are very accurate. The box says + or - 0.5% CO, but I did mine just before taking it to the MOT garage, and set it to 2%, their (calibrated) machine says it was 2.1%.

Remember that current regulations for the UK state that the CO level must not exceed 3.5% for the SE/NA, and 1200ppm hydrocarbons.

With the S2, the acceptable CO levels drop to a lot less but are set by the [[Oxygen_(Lambda)_sensor|Oxygen / O2 / Lambda sensor]] so doed not have a [[CO_pot|CO pot]]!

Sump Removal

2015-03-31T22:10:34Z

Fredjohn:

'''A simplified explanation but this job is quite straightforward if you have some mechanical experience.'''

Before you start download the Workshop Manual from the Manual Section at the top of the forum page. Then read the section on lower crankcase removal (= Sump Removal).

You must remove the "T shaped cross" (= Prongeron) to get at the sump.

You must also remove a section of the exhaust system.

Once jacked up, put axle stands under both jacking points under the "A" posts. Remove wheels and support the suspension with 2 more axle stands, but do not raise the suspension: just support it. Once these are in place DO NOT MOVE THEM until the job is finished.

Undo prongeron bolts one by one then remove prongeron. This turned out to be quite easy as all my bolts were reasonably free and not rusted.

Remove the front part of the exhaust after the cat box. If rusted use heat on the studs and nuts. You may need to buy new ones which are readily available.

You can now undo all the sump bolts and remove the sump. Do your repair. Clean all old sealant off sump/engine block, then replace sump with new sealant. There is no gasket (French: jointe)

Whilst the sump and prongeron are removed, change the oil filter: access is very easy!

Replace exhaust then replace prongeron after giving it a good clean and perhaps a respray!

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=22855]

Heater valve

2015-03-31T22:07:13Z

Fredjohn:

The heater valve is vacuum operated and is used to shut the coolant off from the heater matrix when the heater is set to the cold position and is located here:

[[Image:Heater_valve_location.jpg]]

The original valve is probably of GM origin and is known to be used on the Holden Commodore, Volvo 740, Fiat Spider and XJ40. It probably looked like this when new.

[[Image:Volvo_740_heater_valve.JPG]]

Being metal, it tends to rust through, often from the inside out and can deposit all the coolant spectacularly quickly. This not only occurs in the Elan but most Volvo 740s too and theirs is under the dashboard. As a temporary fix, it is possible to replace a leaking valve with some suitable pipe, remembering to blank off the vacuum pipe first.

[[Image:Lotus_heater_valve-1.jpg]] [[Image:Lotus_heater_valve-2.jpg]]

The internals appear to be very restrictive, so this may explain why the heaters in some cars are not very efficient. Fortunately, ScanTech in Sweden make a reasonably priced replacement which is a lot less restrictive and is mostly plastic.

[[Image:ScanTech_heater_valve.JPG]]

The part number is 51.7896 and these can often be seen on eBay and elsewhere and can range in price from GBP20 to GBP50 or more, however in the UK they can be bought direct from ScanTech's distributor, [http://stores.ebay.co.uk/braydonmotorcompany Braydon Motors] who sell them for around [http://www.braydonmotors.co.uk/store/shopexd.asp?id=1062&bc=no GBP20].

EDIT: 31 March 2015 Fredjohn

Scantech website no longer lists this part 51.7896.

However, a similar item is still available on ebay at [http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/361244433093?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT parts_monster] and it is still available from Braydon, ebay address above. But search for "heater valve" rather than the part number. Still priced around GBP20.