WikiLEC - User contributions [en]

Water Pump

2008-09-25T21:17:49Z

Foo: Cam belt mention

__NOTOC__
{{stub}}

{{note|text='''There are two pumps within the cooling system:''' 
* [[Coolant_Pump|The electrical coolant pump]] 
* The mechanical coolant pump 
}}

The water pump is driven from the [[Belts|cam/timing belt]], and should be replaced on the same schedule since it is only accessible once the cam belt is removed.

<gallery>
Image:Pump 1.jpg
Image:Pump 2.jpg
Image:Pump 3.jpg
</gallery>

Cooling System : Water Pump

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1312115

===See Also===
* [[Coolant_Pump|Coolant Pump]]

== External Links ==
* [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=113427 LEC Forum - Electric Water Pump]

[[Category: ReplacementParts]]
[[Category:Components]]

Speakers

2008-06-29T09:09:05Z

Foo: cat

{{stub}}
== Front Speakers ==
Standard units are 10cm with 4ohm impedence. A standard 10cm speaker should be a straight swap.

The original speaker cones usually rot away although the speakers continue to operate (and don't sound particularly distorted despite having half the cone missing)

== Rear Speakers ==
[[Category:Components]]

Speakers

2008-06-29T09:08:41Z

Foo: Spelling

Speakers

2008-06-29T09:08:25Z

Foo: Basic info

{{stub}}
== Front Speakers ==
Standard units are 10cm with 4ohm impedence. And standard 10cm speaker should be a straight swap.

The original speaker cones usually rot away although the speakers continue to operate (and don't sound particularly distorted despite having half the cone missing)

== Rear Speakers ==

Door glass

2008-06-29T09:06:08Z

Foo: Removal guide

== Removal ==

To remove the door glass:
# Remove the plastic [[Door_Trim|interior door panel]]
# Remove the [[Speakers|speaker]] housing
# Remove both black door interior covers
# Remove interior window wiper seal and interior trim top (the 2 bits at the top of the door... you'll have to drill out some pop rivets)
# Remove the rubber 'up stop' bobbins which are attached to the bottom of the window. They're just round rubber wheel-like things that you can unscrew. If you're unlucky, the fixing on the back of the glass has come loose and is spinning freely. I had to drill mine out in the end.

Now it gets more complicated.

Now you've got the panels off, you will be able to see 3 metal runners that allow the window to move up and down in the door housing.

Locate the middle window runner. There'll be a white plastic slider attached to the glass that runs up and down this runner. If you tuck your hand round the back of it, you'll find a 'U' shaped plastic clip bit that can be detached and left hanging down.

Once that's detached, you can flex the window/door to 'unhook' the glass from the plastic slider. This'll all make more sense once you see it.

Once it's unhooked, you can pull the door glass up and out of the top of the door. You may need to loosen the side mirror fixings so that the glass can get past, and you might also have to slacken off the top of one of the window runners to allow enough to get the glass through.

{{note|text=If you have a copy of the service notes, there's a section in there that covers (most of) this process.}}

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:Components]]

Door glass weatherstrips

2008-06-27T20:57:29Z

Foo: Extra info

The door glass weatherstrips are found at the bottom of the side windows. They prevent water entering the door innards.

The factory-fitted weatherstrips are rubber with metal lining and fixings. However by now, the original weatherstrip rubber has rotted and the metal lining is rusty.

The original Lotus part is not fit for purpose, prone to rusting and expensive (about £90 per side) to replace.

Gordon Twist has prepared a brilliant [http://homepage.ntlworld.com/gtcmaint/Elan%20M100%20Door%20Glass%20Weatherstrips.pdf write up] on a better, non-rusting replacement at a fraction of the cost. He has even offered to make them up at one third of the cost of the Lotus parts.

Replacing a weatherstrip involves [[Door_Trim|stripping the door]] and removing the door glass.

[[Category:ReplacementParts]]
[[Category:Components]]

Buyers guide

2008-06-27T19:53:03Z

Foo: Cost of fixing stuff

== Top tips ==

1. Beg, borrow or steal a laptop with ElanScan and an interface then log your test drive for later analysis if there are any concerns.

2. Take a large mirror and torch to enable you to see under the car easier.

== Buyer’s Guide ==

OK, you’ve set aside the budget, won the lottery or had a bit of luck. Your thoughts turn to a sports car – well, you should do it at least once. You don’t want to spend too much money on it, you’d like to out-perform a Porsche Boxster for mid-range acceleration and have a usable car with a convertible roof. You might consider an MX-5 or a Celica Convertible or a TVR but eventually decide on the M100 Élan – full of character, pedigree and a delight to drive. You peruse [http://www.lotuselancentral.com LEC], maybe even meet some of the guys there and trawl through the ‘For Sale’ section, eBay and auto trader. You make an appointment and turn up to look at your first Élan. What do you look for?

Starting at the front,

Under the '''bumper''' there is a Rubber lip – past encounters with kerbs, small mammals or spare bricks left on the Queen’s highway may have damaged it. They are not particularly hard to get hold of but are held on by many screws. If it is damaged the bumper itself may have suffered as well – look for chips and cracks.
Fast cars suffer from '''Stone chips''' and the M100 Élan is no exception. These can be found in most places all over the front of the car and on the mirror covers. Blue cars seem to suffer particularly badly from this. The front end can be re-sprayed for anything between £400 and £1000 or you could live with it.
It’s now time to get down to it. Get on your knees and look under the front there should be a black plastic Cover or under tray under the radiator straight behind the bumper extending the width of the car. If it is not present this is a sign of neglect and may have mean that the radiator support has been exposed to salt and wet. Look for signs of water / coolant stains on or around this area - it could point to a leaking radiator and/or hoses. Not particularly expensive to fix.
While you are on your knees looking underneath the front examine the '''Prongeron''' – this is the metal bit running between the front wheels down the middle of the car towards the bumper. It has a ‘do not jack’ sticker on it, but some less scrupulous owners and garages choose to ignore this and it may have dents where trolley jacks have been used on it. This can distort this important part of the car’s chassis – it might not necessarily be a bad thing but points to lack of care on behalf of the owners and / or garages. A few Élans have been seen with area and other bits of the chassis sprayed with a black under seal-like substance – this was supposed to happen as part of the anti-corrosion regime by the Lotus dealer network and it quite normal(?).
Before you stand up take a glance at the '''Track Control arms''' – these can corrode quite badly but would have to be really bad if you wanted to spot it on a quick inspection – ideally you’d take the wheels off and bang them with a hammer to check!

OK, you can stand up and dust your knees off. Stand back and check the '''Panel fit''' – bonnet, pods, clam and bumper – the gaps between these items should be even all across the front and round to the wheel arch. If there are odd gaps this might point to body damage in the past. Check that the pods and bonnet are level. On some cars the front of the door catches on the rear of the panel behind the front wheel arch. This is quite common and can be fixed with a bit of adjustment / coaxing with a mallet.

Look at the '''Wheels''', do they have any dents or scuffing? They can be refurbished for not too much money or bought second-hand. Are they the original wheels? You might not be bothered by after-market replacements but some purists are.

Poke your finger through the spokes and run it across the disk – is there a ‘lip’ at the edge? If so, they might need replacing, but standard ones are very cheap. Check pad wear, too, standard pads are cheap. There are a few upgrade options for the '''front brakes''', generally speaking they are a good idea because the standard brakes are relatively poor and do not match the performance of the car if it is used energetically.

Look at the '''tyres'''. Are all the Tyres the same? Do they at least match on the same ‘axle’ front and rear? Are they worn? If worn they should be worn evenly otherwise this could point to tracking / toe-in problems.
Most Élans will have had at least one replacement '''Exhaust''' by now – at least the rear box. Have a look at the rear box ; ideally this will be stainless steel and should appear reasonably shiny. If there are any holes in the system, this would be picked up in the MOT Test. In any case, they are not particularly expensive to replace (thanks to LEC group buys – an upgrade here can yield performance benefits)
Still standing up, put your finger through the spokes and see if there is a lip on the '''Rear disks''' ; glance at the pads, too. The rear brakes are relatively expensive to replace.

Next we move on to the '''Hood''' – I’m assuming it is up at this point! - check the rear edge is sitting firmly on to the deck at the rear. If it isn’t it is possible that the tensioning wires are broken or need adjustment. This is a task best left to the experts! It is a quirk of Élan hoods that a wear point occurs where the frame touches it every time it is deployed – check that this hasn’t left a hole just above the tail end of the window, or that it has been reinforced or patched. The Condition of '''rear window''' should be checked if it is very opaque it might well need replacing if the rest of the hood is OK otherwise expect to shell out for a new hood. It is important to check the condition of the rubbers seals around the windows – these are expensive (if you can find any) and fiddly to replace and if they are in poor condition, with cuts or chunks missing you will definitely suffer when it is raining!.

While we are that back borrow the Boot key open the boot and inspect the interior. If the boot key is worn and there is only one and you do decide to buy the car, it can be tricky to find a locksmith with the correct American GM blanks – you have been warned. Check the carpets are clean and present, lift them up and check the Jack / wrench and Space saver are present. You might be lucky and find a '''Tool kit''' in the well at the left hand side – these were originally supplied with the car – the tools are not overly useful – if you are a hands on type you’ll already have better but it is a nice feature nonetheless – especially if it is entirely complete with the penknife (not all kits had that).

Close the boot and look carefully at the '''Rear lights''' – they are rather large and if cracked can be expensive to replace although they have been seen on eBay for around £100. Look at the Rear number plate. Early Élans had a Perspex cover flush with the light assemblies, later ones and S2s have a recessed plinth mounting. Number plates under the cover have been known to suffer and decay make sure it’s Ok, but they’re very cheap to replace if not.

Time to get on out knees at the rear of the car to examine the ‘Achilles Heel’ of the M100 Élan the '''Rear lower wishbones'''. If it is an S2 it will have galvanised wishbones so you won’t have a problem but earlier SEs or NAs will suffer unless they have been effectively rust proofed. If you’re a ‘hands on’ sort of person they’re pretty straightforward to replace and galvanised replacements are easy to come by. If not, you may have to pay up to £1000 to get them replaced professionally. Again, glancing at them won’t help an awful lot – you really need to belt them with a hammer or the wheel brace – if you hear a muffled thud you may have a problem.

Moving to the front of the car, it’s time to look under the bonnet. Bonnet stay should be present and correct and clip neatly into a clip at the rear of the bonnet. Have a look and note any New jubilee clips this normally means a hose here or there has been replaced which is a good sign. Look, too, at the General cleanliness ; if it is really dirty and shabby it may not have been looked after. The engines are pretty oil tight apart from the '''cam angle sensor oil seal''' this can create an oily mess on the right hand side of the engine but it cheap and easy to fix.
You may find an enthusiast has butchered some of the hoses and pipes and fitted Blow off valves, manual boost controls or KN filter. Some of these have been done on a neat manner, some not so neat. It’s a matter of personal taste, you may prefer your Élan in an original state. Look for any water Leaks near the thermostat or radiator connections.
Unscrew the oil filler cap and look for any Residue – if you see some mayonnaise like substance there this could mean the head gasket is faulty. Normally the oil in an Élan is fairly clean and has to be changed every 6 months in the turbo –equipped SEs and S2s – pull out the dipstick and check the colour of the oil, if you see anything other than oil, for example beads of water there might be a problem with the head gasket. While on the subject of fluids, look at the brake fluid reservoir – the brake fluid should be clean and clear as changing the brake fluid is part of the B service and should be done every couple of years or so.

The underneath of the Élan bonnet should have a layer of Sound deadening material this should be sound and smooth. One car I looked at had this hanging down and it had got damp from a leak in the washer jets then it had created a damp situation on the throttle cable which shed it’s plastic coating and rusted away. The area where the Throttle cable fits into a clip can result in the plastic coating eroding and the metal outer rusting – not too expensive but a swine to fit. Finally, while under the bonnet look at the ‘'''Swan neck area'''’ – inboard and at the rear of the light pods a part of the clamshell curves in an S shape. If this area is anything other than smooth or has cracks or chips in it, then the likelihood is that the car has had a knock at the front at some stage. Have a close look at the '''chassis sticker'''. It’s not an embossed brass plaque but a piece of paper under a sheet of plastic. If it is missing or looks like a photocopy stuck under a piece of sellotape then be concerned. It might be that the car has had a respray but even then it should be properly fixed. OK, we’ve finished under the bonnet, but we might get a helper or the owner to start the engine. Listen for any knocks or rattles. If the engine is cold, you should expect to see about 5 bar on the '''oil pressure''' gauge on tickover. When warm, it should drop to around 1/2 way between the 2.5 bar and 5 bar mark on tickover and be around the 5 bar mark at 3,000 rpm. It is quite normal for a tapping noise from the, er, tappets on start-up – they are hydraulic and until the pressure builds up the clearances are too high resulting in a tapping noise. This noise should go away, if not in a few minutes then after a run on the road when the engine has warmed up fully. Close the bonnet.

Check with the owner to ensure you will get all the keys. The Élan often came with a factory-fit alarm or immobiliser otherwise they have been fitted with one as stipulated by the insurance company. Make sure you get 2 sets of '''keys''' and remote control blippers, it’s good to have a spare set and it can be a pain getting copies.

OK, that completes our study of the exterior, let us open the door and look inside. Check the condition of the '''Seats'''. Some Élans may have a sagging seat base especially on the driver’s side [the most used seat], this looks pretty awful but is simply due to some small c shaped clips failing. They are cheap and easy to replace and can transform the look of the seat as well as providing a more comfortable ride. SE and NA Élans had the option of a leather interior, this was in striped panels keyed into the door cards as well. The panels would be yellow or red depending on the body colour. S2s came with a different pattern set – the stripes were dropped and they came in grey or magnolia. Some cars may have had a retrim- all the ones I’ve seen have been done very well and can transform the interior. Have a look at the '''Carpets'''. There should be overcarpets to protect the main carpet, proper Lotus ones would be preferable, but if they’re worn they can be replaced. Put the hood down – with the owner’s help – if it not down already. Marvel at how easy it is and how neat it looks with the hood down. Look at the '''B post caps''' just behind the seat, these should be present and correct. They are hard to get hold of and fiddly to fix. The Élan looks nicer with them in place. Glance around the cockpit and make sure they are no scuffs or scratches on the dashboard or console. Now start the engine, it should fire up straight away and settle to a smooth idle. I recommend putting the hood back up for the test drive as any mechanical noises will be more apparent with the hood up. Check the operation of the '''remote electric mirrors''' and ensure the '''electric windows''' go up and down smoothly. Parts to fix these can be obtained but are a pig to fit - either taking up a lot of your time or costing you a lot at a specialist! Voltmeter should be showing around 14Volts with the engine running. Make sure the rev counter and speedo work.

Take it for a drive ('''''with the owner’s permission and if you have insurance. If you are driving on your own policy you will only be covered for third party risks, any damage to the car you are driving is not covered. Take care with this point'''''). Look out for gear changes, make sure you can change up and down smoothly, any resistance felt going into a gear can point to gearbox trouble. When the engine is hot, accelerate hard from about 3,000 r.p.m. Check you are not leaving a plume of white smoke behind which can point to a potential problem with the '''oil seals''' in the turbo (this doesn’t apply to NA models, of course). Élan engines are pretty bullet-proof and should not smoke much at all. '''While Steering at low speeds as you approach full lock you will hear a hissing noise''', this is very normal on the Élan and is nothing to worry about.

It is quite normal for some leaks in wet weather, water will trickle down the windows and / or door pillars this is fairly normal, but it shouldn’t be too excessive. Keep an old towel in the car!

Time to look at the '''paperwork''', you will want to see the Service history which will be stamps in the owner’s handbook or notes made by the enthusiastic hands on owner. Note the mileage in the history and look at Previous MOTs. Look at the current MOT and check there are not too many serious potential faults; obviously it makes sense to buy a car with a long MOT because this postpones the day when you may have to spend money on the car. An MOT test will cover most of the ‘inspect’ items on and Élan service so it is a good thing to have. Make sure the average mileage tallies with the condition of the car and the service intervals. Some owners keep Bills for work done, have a good read of these and you can see what has been replaced and determine what hasn’t – consider the likely cost of fixing these items. Get the V5 registration document and check the chassis number matches the chassis number on the sticker under the bonnet. The chassis number is also stamped on the end of the rear chassis outrigger on the right hand side and should be easy to see even with the wheel on.

These are the very worthwhile '''upgrades''' it would be good to have, if your potential purchase doesn’t have them then they should be on your shopping list to be fitted as time and finds allow;

Front brakes upgraded - AP, Hi-Spec or Wilwood if possible.
Galvanised rear wishbones fitted.
Stainless steel exhaust system fitted (2 1/4 to 2 1/2" ideally).
AB gear cables fitted.
ESM chip fitted.
Upgraded dampers fitted.

Start haggling. If you find a good one, you like the colour and the price is right then welcome to the LEC Élan world of motoring.

'''''Muley'''''

----

== Addition suggestions from Sy: ==

The undertray (to which you allude) wasn't a one piece item on earlier cars (AFAIK)*. It was formed out of a series of piano key like sections all separately screwed/bolted in place.
Don't forget whilst inside the cockpit to check all electrics - windows, heater, mirrors, lights etc.
Rear discs are expensive (but I suppoe this is all about individual consideration).
Take a tape measure and compare (side to side) the distance of the front of the rear wheels to the corresponding point on the wheel arch.
Check for residue in the coolant header tank.

'''''Sy V'''''

----

== Additional information from clemo ==

buying an Elan is fun but can be tricky..
here is my advice (and it is only that! )
PRICES
the low prices look apealing but can turn out to cost you so much more in the long run.. an owner enthusiast will generally know the price of his/her car .. due to the fact they have probably spent a good few thousand on it putting all the niggely bits right .. and even when you may look at it , you think that it may well need to spend more !!
COLOUR
my advise would be at your price range don't be colour driven , as in ohh i don't want red or green ... with 5k take the best you can get or find more money !
this is not a dig at red or green , far from it. you will notice that 4 out of 5 cars on ebay will be red or green this means that you can take your pick as to what it has had done , not is it a rarer colour... and don't for one minute think that red means pink ... it doesn't i have had 3 red elans all that are red and have only ever seen on pink Elan and that was due to a duff sprayjob not fading lotus paint.
Also green ones are not driven by grandads, many of the nicest cars on here are green... this is just in house joking that could be read wrong to a 1st time reader.
and whilst i am at it .. N/A'S are not that slow .. i own one !!and most digs are usually at me !!!

SERVICING
when asking what it has had done , don't be upset if it has been looked after by the owner enthusiast.. this is a good thing. we know our cars . and if we don't somone on here does . so you need not always put it into a lotus specialist for an expensive oil change or such. service history is nice . but not vitaly important. to know that it has been looked after properly by the owner is just as good , if not better . i like others know every squeek and rattle of my car !.

MILAGE/ENGINE
some elans are now 16 years old so high milage is not so much of an issue , again if it has been well looked after 200k can be achived. however if not an engine rebuild can cost easily £3000. mine did. so listen to it. start it from cold. buy a head gasket tester £20.

CONDITION.
again elans can be 16 years old . so don't expect an a1 mint condition Elan. they were not even that when they came out of the factory ! panels don't alway line up rear spoilers never fit properly on one side . thats part of the lotus hand built charm! roof rubbers will be showing signs of wear , some roofs will have small rub marks in them.

UNDERNEATH.
wishbones is somthing you will hear a fair bit about.. can be replaced on se / na for later s2 versions(s2 is galvanised). so get underneath and check them. they rust . but don't have kittens if they have not been replaced. if you did then you will probably never buy an Elan. may now have scrapes due to road humps.

BUYING.
try and take an enthusiast with you . let us know .. we are quite a helpful / nosey bunch! but if you can see a few before you run head 1st into buying the 1st one you drive saying " don't worry i can fix that" as parts can be out of stock or expensive.

RUNNING
for me i have now had 4 years trouble free running ... prior to that i spent thousands on my car. when they are good they are great ! but when they have issues they can be a nightmare. many tall people use their cars as everyday drivers.with the addition of a hardtop they can be virtually leak free for all year driving
.
PRICES
due to the limited amounts made, and the comfort they provide elans are quite well sort after. prices are quite high. (higher than an equal year elise) i think an Elan is quite a sound investment. many drivers can use their car and sell it for equal money 2 years later.

FUN
they are fun. they should be on the national health. it would make everyone smile .it also brings out the nicer side of you as a driver, people look. whats that? it is a pleasure to drive fast as it sticks so well, or slow as it tours so nicely. once you own one you will know why most owners say " reluctent sale after 5 years" or such alike..

on an Elan most things can be fixed , replaced or re manufactured. cars being broken to provide future owners with parts so don't worry to much about what if ....
buy it and enjoy it ...

LEC is a good place to dip your toe in for information or jump in with both feet. there is a couple of events every year where we all have a shandy or to and it is far from the trainspotter outings where vin numbers are exchanged. whats more kids and partners join in too...

go buy one...

'''''Clemo'''''

----

== Clemo's guide March 2007 ==

Loooking around at the pre spring prices...
what a buyers market..
from the "A1" top of the pile right down to the "do em uppers"
be it £12000 down to £3000 they are still in essence open top Elan driving.

listen to the weather forcasters this is due to be the hotest on record.
listen to practical classics and the Elan is a sound investment..

practical classics base the s2 Elan along side elise prices...
so a choice of open top motering by lotus...

try them both..
but you will probably find the Elan a more "usable comfortable car"

the cheapest car on auto trader is £3600 and comes with a high mileage tag .. but what does this really mean..

150,000 miles are being achived now by elans .. and they still sound sweet.. as long as they have been serviced and had the cam belt changed you should have no problems with another 20,000.. now whilst that sounds like its at the end of its life it should have loads more left in it...
but lets just say 20,000 . if you are using the car as a second sunny day car then thats years of buget price driving... if you actually do 4000 a year thats 5 year of open to driving.. all for only £3600 .. and a self service at £50 a year. and do the cam belt straight away for piece of mind.. any garage £120

the more you pay the better it gets...
mid range cars a £5000. with say 100,000 miles.
good service history and better condition cars. look after it and its going to always have around that value..
and whats the worst that can happen .. it drops of to £4000 over the time it takes to do another 50,000 miles...
still sounds like bargin price lotus ownership to me...

as for the top of the pile late s2's say £10,000 with low mileage, full paperwork and low owners. these cars will dictate the ceiling price of the rest and will always be sought after by people wanting the best of the best...
the more the years roll by , the fewer these top cars become .. so the more they hold their value..

but the most important thing i have missed IS...
that these prices WILL go up when the sun comes out...

its not an mx5 or an mr2 made in the bucket loads..
this is a hand built prestigious marque with years of motering history made in limited numbers...

go buy it (before i do !)

'''''Clemo'''''

== Putting things right ==
These are approx costs for faults and 'necessary' updates on cars you go to view. If a car needs one of these, this list may help you decide what the car's worth offering. The prices are only estimates and include labour. They're also minimums - so non-lotus parts where available and the lowest prices where a job's price range is quite variable (e.g. respraying)
* Thatcham Cat 1 Alarm - £350
* Gear cables - £250
* Alloy refurbishing - £50 per wheel
* Side window weatherstrips - £30 (DIY)
* Rear brake - ???
* Front brake - ???
* Replacement hood - £1000 plus (and hard to source)
* Full bodywork respray - £1000
* Hood liner replacement - £50
* Cam belt replacement - £70
* A-post seal - Replacement not currently possible
* Rear wishbones - ???

Headlamps

2008-06-25T17:54:34Z

Foo: Category

'''An easy job if you're a double jointed midget apparently:'''

"I've found it best to manually wind the pod up half way then reach in from the side while looking through the slot at the top.
Still helps if you have about 3 elbows though."
and
"It should be easy but rarely is. It's one of these jobs that you can get right 1st time or spend absolutely ages - particularly with the spring clip."

'''Or if you've got fingers like pigs tits:'''

"Wind the pods up, there are three screws in the front of the reflector unscrew do not confuse with the three adjustment screws and remove whole reflector from inside the pod place in your lap and change the bulb making sure it is seated properly."

[[Category:Components]]

Fuel Filter

2008-06-25T17:53:52Z

Foo: Category

==Background==

A fairy common filter which is also in use on the same era Lotus Esprit. A point of note is the filter should be fitted with a seal which is not identified in the Elan manual, but is in the Esprit.

==Filter Location==

The filter is located in a compartment below the hood stowage area. It is situated towards the left hand side of the bay.

[[Image:Fuel filter.jpg]]

The filter can be found behind the metalic panel.

[[Image:Fuel filter 31.jpg]]

==How to replace the fuel filter==

{{warning|text='''WARNING - Explosive hazard'''

Isolate the battery before any work to the fuel system.

Remember to depressurize the fuel system.
}}

* Lift out the carpet inside your hood stowage cover.
* Take the battery inspection cover and wedge it lengthways between the rear edge of the roof and the front edge of the stowage cover.
* That will give you plenty of room to work (and is a really handy tip if you've ever got any other work to do in that area).
* Undo all the screws and remove the plastic tray. ( The screws, sometimes called Scrivets, appear to be made from plastic, but they are in fact made of chocolate. If the screws round off, a wood chisel is the perfect tool for removing the heads).
* Then, from the driver's side, you'll be able to see the inspection hatch. It's an aluminium plate that's mounted vertically on the RHS of the fuel tank. Remove the 4 screws and voila, there's your fuel filter.

=== How to remove the filter===

* Start the engine and then pull the inertia switch.
* The engine should stall and depressurize the fuel lines.
* Remove the battery.
* Release the filter from its clamp with a 10mm socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet. This gives enough clearance to move the actual filter fore and aft to get at the fittings.
* With a 21mm (adjustable) open end spanner on the filter, and a 16mm on the fitting, loosen off the fittings slightly (beware of pressurised residual fuel - have a rag handy!)
**In theory the outer (threaded) part of the fitting will rotate, with the inner bit staying still - Like on a brake pipe.
** In reality, the 2 bits may be rusted solid (mine were, anyway) - hence as you unscrew the fitting, the plastic fuel line 'winds up' and squashes itself flat - weakening it and maybe giving it somewhere to split when under pressure
{{note|text=
'''What to do if the fuel line is damaged'''
After a bit of head scratching, you may come to the decision that if you cut the pipe, you can refit the fittings later - if you think that - THINK AGAIN They are a difficult to re-fit - there just isn't enough room to get at it properly.
Okay, here's what you do -

Go and buy 60cm of rubber high-pressure injection fuel pipe (8mm bore) from your local motor factors - don't forget a couple of jubilee clips (size 000) Then…

* Cut the plastic hose about 10mm from the fitting on the INLET side of the filter (rear of the car).
* Catch any fuel which runs out.
* Unscrew the filter from the front (outlet) fitting - leaving that fitting attached to the plastic pipe which runs forward to the engine.
* Remove the filter, with the rear fitting still attached, from the access hole - it will still have quite a bit of petrol in it so be careful. Drain it away carefully, then unscrew the fitting from the filter.
* Carefully cut the plastic pipe off the 8mm tail on the fitting, don't press too hard with the knife - you need to be able to re-seal it later!

You now have that sinking feeling when you realise that you can't get it all back together unless your hands are 3 cm wide and double-jointed - with the ability to exert vast amounts of longitudinal pressure on the pipe joint.

* Remove the 4 screws which hold the cover plate on top of the fuel tank - it is the one with the wires going through it to the sender unit underneath. The screws are actually set screws (bolts) going into rubber scrivets. Pull it to one side, feeding the wire through it as you go to give clearance.
* By waggling the cut end of the plastic fuel line you will see the other end of it on top of the sender unit - carefully cut the plastic pipe on the spigot on top of the tank - it is only plastic, so go careful with Mr. Stanley!
* Pull the pipe out and chuck it away - it's (s)crap.
* Fit the pipe to the fuel tank end and tighten up the jubilee clip - feed the pipe round the top of the tank and down to where the filter lives.
}}

* Replace the 2 rubber 'o' rings on the fittings (Rover part, not mentioned in the Elan manual) and screw the inlet fitting (the loose one!) onto the inlet side of the filter - tighten up with the same 2 spanners you took the old one off with.
* Screw the filter onto the outlet fitting - dangling somewhere next to the tank - and tighten up with spanners. Push it forward a bit to get to the rear fitting.
* Push the loose end of your nice new rubber hose onto the fitting - don't forget the jubilee clip. Do it up.
* Wiggle the new filter back into its locating bracket and replace the bolt.
* Replace the battery
* Reset the isolator
* Turn ignition key as to prime the fuel lines, but do not start the engine.
* Check the new filter for leaks
* Start the engine, check for leaks
* Put the bay back together.

It might sound a bit strange, but if you do it this way, and have the parts you need at hand - it is literally a 10 minute job!
Remove the fuel filter

====Shopping list====

* Fuel filter - Fram G3727 (Lotus A910E6929F £13.63 ? [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6343 See Here] for alternatives)
* 2 x 'O' rings - MG/Rover part # EDP9976
* 60cm 8mm bore Injection fuel hose
* 2 x jubilee clips (size 0000)

====Tools required====

* 21mm open-end spanner (wrench)
* 16mm open-end spanner (wrench)
* Cross-head screwdriver
* 10mm socket on 1/4" drive
* Stanley knife
* 7mm socket for jubilee clips

[[Category:Components]]

Oxygen (Lambda) sensor

2008-06-14T11:28:30Z

Foo: More sensor suppliers

== About ==
The Oxygen (02) Sensor monitors the amount of unburnt oxygen which passes out of the engine through the [[Exhaust|exhaust]] manifold. This reading is then used by the [[ECM]] to determine the correct input fuel mixture. It is not the only sensor that controls fuel mixture, but it is regarded as the 'primary' sensor, because ultimately whatever is exhausted from the engine is the 'actual' result of the burnt mix - whereas all the other sensors read pre-burn factors such as air and [[Coolant_Temperature_Sensor_(CTS)|coolant]] temperatures.

Oxygen Sensors only came into mainstream production use in the early-mid 90s, and hence not found on the N/A or SE Elan M100. However, it is possible to [[Converting_SE_to_closed_loop_ECU|convert the SE]] to use an O2 Sensor.

== Replacement Parts ==

In the [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/repair/oxysens.htm LEC repairs area], Jade and Nitro identified the [[Media:Discount Auto -11039.jpg|Discount Auto #11039]] as a direct replacement for Fed Elans, Doug also identified the [[Media:Bosch -13277.jpg|Bosch #13277]] and Charlie the '''NGK #21012'''.

Having dug around unsuccessfully on UK sites to find these part numbers, it looked like I was going to have to get one in from the US.

However, I happened upon one on a well known international auction site for a [[Media:Bosch 0 258 003 229.jpg|Rover 218 VVC]]. The only apparent difference is that the wires appear longer than the Elan's which are about 40cm long. Fortunately, a European Bosch number (10 numbers) was on the photograph so a quick search on 0 258 003 229 threw up the [http://www.lambdasensor.co.uk/main/mcrossref.htm Just Lamba website] whose [[Media:Bosch 0 258 003 229 details.jpg|details]] confirmed the Rover part appeared to have the right connector but that the lead length was 59cm. Never mind, 13 lines above it are the [[Media:Bosch 0 258 003 193 details.jpg|details]] for the 0 258 003 193 which has a lead length of 39cm. A further search of the part number throws up the [[Media:Mini O2 details.jpg|1300 Mk1 Mini]] from [http://www.seik.de/shop/search2.jsp?field=fulltext&Search=mini&from=20 Seik for €24].

The European Bosch reference for the O2 sensor would appear to be 0 258 003 193 from a 1300 Mini {although I've just noticed it's four wire not three wire and the pins are spade rather than round ... bugger!} '''Also very useful information at [http://www.lucaselectrical.co.uk/technicalinfo.html Lucas Electrical]'''

There are some other possible replacements listed at OxygenSensors.com under: 
Year: 1991 
Make: Isuzu 
Model: Impulse 
Sub-Model: RS 
Engine: L4 cyl (1.6 L,1588) 

These are: 
Walker #250-23127 3-Wire 
Denso #234-3014 3-Wire 

{{warning|text=This site also lists a 'Universal' part #250-23000. Ignore this, as the fitting is not correct}}

== Replacing ==
# Apply copious amounts of penetrating oil, heat and/or cold to get the old sensor out.
# Use an 18mm O2 sensor socket which has a slot up the side for the lead.
# Check that the thread in the exhaust system is clean and in good condition before attempting to install the new sensor. Don't drop any swarf into the pre-cat!
# Handle the sensor with care to prevent damage - dropping a sensor could inflict damage to the ceramic, which would not be apparent during installation.
# '''During production an anti-corrosion compound is applied to the threaded portion of the sensor body. This is a sensor friendly grease compound and no other anti-seize compounds should be used as they may contain ingredients that could poison the sensor elements. Do not use any other cleaning or anti-rust solvents near the sensor body as this could similarly affect the element.'''
# Remove the protection cap just prior to fitting. Screw the sensor into place by hand then tighten to the specified [[Torque settings]] ensuring that the wiring harness is not twisted as the sensor is screwed in.
# Secure the harness using the correct fixings, ensuring that the routing does not produce any kinks in the wires, touch any part of the exhaust system or other hot components and does not foul any rotating parts.
# Reconnect the harness connector.

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:Components]]

Converting SE to closed loop ECU

2008-06-14T11:27:20Z

Foo: Chip link is dead

__NOTOC__
It is possible to convert the UK standard SE with an open loop ECU (9929 or 9239 PROM id) to run a closed loop program.

The ''open loop''/''closed loop'' terms refer to the way that the ECU controls the mixture. In closed loop the ECU usually tries to achieve an a/f ratio of 14.7:1 - this is complete combustion of the mixture (or as close to it as the engine can get).

The open loop ECU bases it's fuelling on the characteristics measured on a typical engine - there is essentially no loop. The a/f ratio is set slightly rich, at 14:1. This is a safety measure to prevent the mixture going [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lean_burn lean].

The closed loop ECU follows these steps:

# sets up the injectors
# reads the output of an oxygen sensor mounted in the exhaust flow
# adjusts an injector correction term if the sensor reading is lean or rich
# loops back to step 1

At high throttle openings the ECU uses fuel enrichment to suppress knock and in this event the narrow band oxygen sensor can no longer be usefully employed, as the mixture moves out of its measurement range, so the ECU operates in open loop mode until the normal 14.7:1 mixture is next required.

=== Why do it? ===

Changing an SE to closed loop improves fuel economy (unless you go everywhere at full throttle) and removes any worry from the emissions tests at MOT time.

== Parts Needed ==

You need two things:
# A standard narrow band (aka binary) oxygen sensor. They can readily be found on US car parts sites; look for an oxygen sensor listed under the '1991 Isuzu Impulse RS' application. DON'T pick a universal one, get one with the right plug on it.
# One of the following:
## A 1499 (S2 or 49 states federal) closed loop ECU or MEMCAL
## An upgrade chip based on the 1499 program (in the interest of full disclosure I should mention that I sell these!) ''[As an independant contributor, I can thoroughly recommend them - Geoff]''

== Instructions ==
# Under the bonnet you must remove the bung in turbo housing, the one you can see through the hole in the turbo's heat shield. The sensor is fitted there instead. It will be tough to get out, use penetrating oil in advance and be prepared to apply a lot of force, damage to the casting is a possibility. After the bung is out its all easy;
# Fit the sensor and plug it into the empty socket in the harness just by the engine mount (4 position connector in a 2x2 configuration with only three wires connected).
# Fit the ECU and you're done!

[[Category:HowTo]]

Talk:Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor

2008-05-21T19:08:02Z

Foo: Correct Name?

== Correct Name? ==
Is the part called a 'Manifold Absolute Pressure' or 'Manifold Air Pressure' sensor?

[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAP_Sensor]

--[[User:Foo|Foo]] 19:08, 21 May 2008 (UTC)

Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) sensor

2008-05-21T19:05:04Z

Foo: Links

==Preliminary Investigation==

[http://www.RockAuto.com RockAuto] list the following MAP sensors under 1999 | ISUZU | IMPULSE | 1.6L 1588cc L4 MFI (5) | Emission | MAP Sensor:

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # AS5T {TRU-TECH}

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # AS5 {MAP SENSOR}

BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1580380

ACDELCO Part # 2131520 {#16009886} SENSOR,MAP

DELPHI Part # PS1007511B1

A search for "ACDELCO 213-1520" threw up that it is common to the [http://www.lotuscarlton.co.uk/parts.htm Lotus Carlton]† and referred back to RockAuto and 1990 PONTIAC SUNBIRD LE 2.0L 122cid L4 MFI Turbo (M).

The Sunbird is listed in [http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/component_info/sensors.html this GM sensor cross reference] that Neil highlighted [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4774 here].

Note:

† Further down is a reference to:

AC Delco Ltd (London)
OCW 19 Wandsworth Rd
Unit 14
Perrivale
UB6 7LS
Neil tel 0208 8104595

Geoff 31/1/08

== External Links ==
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lotus_Carlton Lotus Carlton] on Wikipedia
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAP_sensor MAP Sensor] on Wikipedia
* [http://www.RockAuto.com RockAuto] for spare parts
[[Category:Components]]

Toy Models

2008-05-21T16:10:21Z

Foo: Links

''For information about the different Elan M100's that Lotus produced, see [[M100 Editions]].''

== Maisto ==

Maisto manufactured a 1/36 scale die-cast model for both the Elan SE and S2.

These models were available in several guises, the most common was the Shell Petrol Stations promotion. This was a scheme of collecting points and redeeming them against a model car. The car was normally blue, packaged in a yellow box.

<gallery>
Image:Lotus 3.jpg
Image:French_model.jpg|Distributed by Maisto to toy shops in a silver box.‎
Image:Lotus 4.jpg|Disributed by Lotus Garages in white Lotus boxes.
Image:Lotus 2.jpg
Image:Lotus 1.jpg|And finally the quirk, Cars given to Lotus employees in shell boxes...
</gallery>

Blue
Yellow Lotus dealer version LOTPR00300
Green Lotus dealer version LOTPR00303

== Scale Model Technical Services ==

The precision model cars listed in the catalogue from [http://www.smtsmodels.demon.co.uk/ SMTS]are manufactured from white meal with resin, photo-etched and plated parts to form 1:43 scale collectors cars. All are individually hand built and finished in authentic colours and decals. Models are also available in kit form, ready to paint and assemble. 1:24 scale models are listed separately.

<gallery>
Image:SMTS BLUE.jpg
Image:SMTS_MODEL.jpg
</gallery>‎

== The Hasbro 1/15 scale model ==

A rare item indeed. This a direct copy by Hasbro of a 1989 to 1994 Lotus Elan SE M100, which was the car driven by James Bond Jr. in a short lived comic book series and TV show. It is over 11 inches long, six inches wide and 3 inches tall. Just like the James Bond Aston Martin, this little red Lotus has plenty of toys that blend into the car without overtaking the obvious Elan lines. The features include pop-out front guns and a saw blade battering ram, pull out hub cap shredder blades, a spring action ejector seat (the seats match the real car styling), a rear spoiler that flips up to become a bullet proof shield, and the dual exhaust pipes convert to spring fired missles.

<gallery>
Image:James_Bond_JR.jpg‎
Image:James_bond_jr_car_2.jpg‎
</gallery>

== ERTL Model ==

[[Image:James_Bond_JR_1.jpg|thumb|left|ERTL ‎James Bond Jr Model]]
 

== The Kenner 1/15 scale model ==

Another rare item. This a direct copy by Kenner a trademark of Tonka Corporation, a subsidiary of Hasbro of a 1989 to 1994 Lotus Elan SE M100 which was the car driven by Jim Carrey's character from the movie The Mask. The toy is very large, I guessed at the 1/15 scale. It is over 12 inches long, six inches wide and 3 inches tall. The car is yellow and the decals are optional. The features include pop-up front jaws, pull out hub cap shredder blades, a spring action ejector seat (the seats match the real car styling), and the dual exhaust pipes convert to spring fired missles.

[[Image:Mask lotus.jpg|thumb|left]]
 

== Pattos Place ==

Pattos Place is a one-man operation located in Sydney, Australia, manufacturing slot and model cars to various scales.

[[Image:Body13290elanm100.jpg|thumb|left|1/32 Lexane Model]]
 

== The LOTUSELANCENTRAL Model ==

This [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10550&highlight=models/ model] is still in the early planning stages.

== Similar Models ==

[[Image:Kia.jpg|thumb|left|The Kia Elan as seen on Ebay]]
 

== Custom Paint Job ==

By [[User:Ekapol|Ekapol]]

Bored? Need an Elan fix? You could spent few hours playing with repainting, waxing, detailing, etc. The one I have comes from Shell Sportscar Collection series.

<gallery Caption="Custom Paint Job">
Image:model1.jpg|Here is the "before" shot of my 1st 1/36 Elan (around 3 inches).
Image:model2.jpg|My "after" shot
Image:model3.jpg|"before" w/ Coke can shifter
Image:model4.jpg|"after" With side mirror and NOS switch
Image:model5.jpg|Added yellow interior trim..
Image:model6.jpg|Turn signal lights, and Lotus wheel caps
Image:model7.jpg
</gallery>

==See also==
* [[M100 Editions]]
* [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7734&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=20 LEC thread link] about Model Elans.

M100 Editions

2008-05-20T21:46:12Z

Foo: Visual Differences

The M100 went through 2 major editions and a number of variants during production.

== Basic Differences ==

=== Series 1: Elan M100 SE ===

* Produced between 1989 and 1992
* 15" Wheels
* Around 4500 assembled
* Turbocharged

==== Naturally-Aspirated variant ====
There was a a small number (129) of Series 1 cars that were NA (did not have a turbocharger). These were sold exclusively in the UK.

==== US variant ====
There was a seperate US variant of the Series 1. It was different in the following ways:
* 16" Wheels
* 'Stage 2' body with alterations to the rear spoiler and front-end shape

=== Series 2: Elan M100 S2 ===

* Produced between 1994 and 1995
* Slightly reduced power compared to Series 1
* 800 assembled

== Series 2 Info ==

When Bugatti came across a warehouse full of Isuzu engines it decided to make a further limited production run of Elans. This model became known as the 'Series 2' and had a number of changes. Larger, more fashionable 7" X 16" wheels were fitted in place of the European 6.5" X 15"s, together with minor changes to dampers and suspension components to accommodate the heavier wheels. Lotus engineer John Miles gave CAR Magazine the impression he was 'somewhat pained by this concession to style.' Stiffer bushings were used in the rafts to give a firmer ride and the power steering was re-valved to give improved feel. The British motoring press particularly welcomed this. A catalytic converter was also fitted in a new Bosal exhaust system which slightly reduced the engine torque, and output power by 10 BHP. The rear suspension top link was also re-designed to reduce cost.

CAR Magazine on driving the S2 said "The Elan has never been about pure muscle; it's about balance, precision and sheer dynamic ability and the S2 has these qualities in abundance. Truth to tell, I can hardly detect the changes in the Elan's suspension, except for the fact the car's ride is now harsher at low speeds. So awesome was the original car's cornering ability that exploring the chassis' limit was almost impossible. That hasn't changed." Numerous other changes were made to the internal trim including the seats, window controls, centre console and the steering wheel. The soft-top also received some attention to its sealing rubbers in an effort to stem the leaks. S2 Elans are nearly always seen in metallic colours, which certainly look very eye catching when combined with their larger wheels. Unfortunately their performance although still swift suffers with the engine’s power loss and extra kerb weight when compared to the Series 1. 0-100 times for the S2 are some 4 seconds adrift, and all the in-gear incrementals are beaten by its predecessor. The S2 was however a great sales success and gave Lotus a much needed injection of cash.

== Visual Differences ==

There are a number of basic changes to the car's external appearance which can quickly indicate whether the car is an SE or S2. The most obvious difference being at the rear where you should find either 'Elan SE' or 'Elan S2' printed.

However some car ads fail to disclose the version, and don't include an image of the rear of the car. So other quick visual differences are:

{| style="width:100%; margin-top:1.2em;"
|
'''Steering Wheel'''

The design of the steering wheel changed between the SE and S2 models. The North American version of the SE wheel (not pictured) featured an airbag, which was not present on any of the the european models.
|
[[Image:Steering_Wheel_SE_Design.jpg|thumb|100px|SE Steering Wheel Design]]
|
[[Image:Steering_Wheel_S2_Design.jpg|thumb|100px|S2 Steering Wheel Design]]
|}

{| style="width:100%; margin-top:1.2em;"
|
'''Alloy Wheels'''

The 7-spoke SE Alloy wheel design is much fuller in appearance compared to the 5-spoke S2 wheels
|
[[Image:Wheel_Lotus_SE_Design.jpg|thumb|100px|SE Alloy Wheel Design]]
|
[[Image:Wheel_Lotus_S2_Design.jpg|thumb|100px|S2 Alloy Wheel Design]]
|}

=== See Also ===
* [[Concept_cars|Elan M100 Concept Car Versions]]

__NOEDITSECTION__
[[Category:UsefulInfo]]

File:Wheel Lotus SE Design.jpg

2008-05-20T21:43:38Z

Foo: Factory-spec SE alloy wheel design

Factory-spec SE alloy wheel design

File:Wheel Lotus S2 Design.jpg

2008-05-20T21:43:19Z

Foo: Factory-spec S2 alloy wheel design

Factory-spec S2 alloy wheel design

File:Steering Wheel S2 Design.jpg

2008-05-20T21:27:14Z

Foo: Factory-spec S2 steering wheel design

Factory-spec S2 steering wheel design

File:Steering Wheel SE Design.jpg

2008-05-20T21:21:33Z

Foo: Factory-spec SE steering wheel design

Factory-spec SE steering wheel design

Replacing Temp & Fan Switch Bulbs

2008-05-18T00:08:26Z

Foo: wording change update

* Just pull off the 3 knobs which control the temperature, fan speed and blower direction, then the oblong fascia panel behind them, which clips in place. After that the bulbs simply pull out, and the new ones push in.

* The panel was originally designed to have the bulbs changed from the back - the bulb holders would simply pop out to give access to the bulb, and snap back in. For this reason there’s a good chance of pushing the holder off its seat while inserting the bulb and losing the whole thing behind the dash.

* If this has already happened - here’s a way round it - It calls for a bit of keyhole surgery.

* Drill a small hole adjacent to the bulb holder and using a piece of piano wire its quite easy to clip them back in place.

* The same piece of wire will hold them in position while replacing the bulb.

* The bulb detail is: Exterior/Interior Bulb 12V 1.2W Model 286

* Available at Halfords £1.79

[[Image:LEC_bulb.jpg]],

Exhaust

2008-05-18T00:07:24Z

Foo: Undo revision 1380 by Foo (Talk)

= After Market Exhausts =

There are several options for aftermarket exhaust systems

== PECO ==

The PECO exhaust is a full (turbo back) 2.25 inch stainless system. This system was designed with the SE in mind and so does not incorporate the main cat present on the S2.

== Links ==

[http://www.peco.co.uk/ PECO]

[[Category:ReplacementParts]]

----

== Removing the rear silencer. ==

'''Observe normal safety procedures for working under the car.'''

'''''Using ramps…'''''

* Put the rear of the car on ramps.

* Make provisions to be able to jack the offside up slightly while the car is still on the ramps.

* From underneath remove the U bolt securing the silencer to the centre pipe. 13mm.

* Spray the joint with WD40 or similar.

* Separate the joint – it might be necessary to fasten the centre pipe to the nearside ramp and knock the silencer pipe over to the offside.

* The rubber hanger over the wheel arch will disconnect itself as the joint parts.

* Push the silencer forward off rear hanger, and onto the wishbone.

* Jack the offside of the car up slightly to enable the silencer to thread out of the back of the car.

* Reverse the procedure for replacing it; you may have to line the wheel arch hanger up as the joint is made.

'''''Or not…'''''

* The silencer can be removed using the same principle but from the offside - rather than underneath - just by jacking the car up at the back and removing the rear wheel. It has the added benefit of not having to jack the car up while it’s on the ramps.

Fuel Filter

2008-05-18T00:06:26Z

Foo: wording change update

MOT

2008-05-18T00:05:27Z

Foo: Undo revision 1478 by Foo (Talk)

== MOT Common Failures and Remedies ==

* While it’s a good idea to do all the normal checks prior to an MOT – making sure there are no bulbs out, checking the items that only get used once a year, like the horn, windscreen washers and hazard warning lights – with the Élan you need add the brakes to the list.

* They are better done in advance of the test. You’ll not only enhance the chances of it passing, but you’ll have the added benefit of a shorter stopping distance, for a while.

* For newcomers, all I did to get my rear brakes from a failure reading of 30 and 40 to a pass of 70 and 70 was to remove the pads - check the sliders were free – remove the central rubber plug from the piston to check the extent of any internal seal leaks - checked the pistons were free, the offside one turns anticlockwise/inwards (the information in the manual is looking from the back of the car) – clean the edges of the steel backing plates and the corresponding part on the callipers – take the glaze of the pads with sandpaper – and reassemble.

* You can do the same thing at the front, but include changing the inner pad to the outside and visa versa. This will even out the wear and put the slider arrangement into a new position.

----

* muley

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9566&highlight=mot+failed To view a car's MOT history]

* RayD

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9609&highlight=mot+failed Rear brakes inadequate]

* RichyP

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11467&highlight=mot+failed All four brake discs]

* dapinky

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9583&highlight=mot+failed Hazard light switch not illuminating]

[http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10096 The solution is on this thread.]

* Gazza

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10929&highlight=mot+failed Lower Steering UJ]

* Hinch

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10628&highlight=mot+failed Broken headlight]

* kevincprice

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5570&highlight=mot+failed Inner track rod end]

* nchase

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10656&highlight=mot+failed The handbrake]

* martyn roberts

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10366&highlight=mot+failed Emissions]

* Benmac

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9876&highlight=mot+failed Front brakes ]

* Russc

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9590&highlight=mot+failed Handbrake and Windscreen washer jets]

* davel

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8921&highlight=mot+failed Heavy steering]

* pit_stop

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8171&highlight=mot+failed All four brake discs]

* Andrew_Ennis

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7560&highlight=mot+failed Nearside upper ball joint]

* Hinch

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7245&highlight=mot+failed Condition of the rear disks]

* hec

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7110&highlight=mot+failed Rear wishbones and FNS bottom arm]

* Ray

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6641&highlight=mot+failed Horn]

* schurch

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6481&highlight=mot+failed Rear braking effort]

* Stef

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6020&highlight=mot+failed Rear brake discs and pads]

* PaulW

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=612&highlight=mot+failed Emissions]

* D3DSY

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10126&highlight=mot+failure Dipped beam too high]

* hec

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8539&highlight=mot+failure front brake hose]

* paulwatkins

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9012&start=0&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=gaiter Outer CV joint gaiter]

* Rushing

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=154718#154718 Rear Callipers]

Engine oil

2008-05-18T00:05:01Z

Foo: Undo revision 1494 by Foo (Talk)

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11127&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Also see LEC…]

* The original Lotus Service notes recommends 3.5 litres including filter change of 10W/30 SF or SG, 15W/40 SF or SG, Mobil One 5W/50 SG

* If it were a new car the oil choice would be straight forward, just follow the manufacturer’s recommendation. Unfortunately the Lotus recommendation is 17 years old and oil has moved on a bit.

== What the numbers mean… 10W/40 etc ==

* The numbers show the relationship between modern multi grade oils and the SAE single grades.

While your lawnmower engine, being small, slow running, and used mainly when it’s warm, will run happily on SAE 30, a car engine needs something thin enough to pump instantly to the camshaft when cold, but thick enough to maintain the pressure when hot.

10W 40 means its starts from cold with the same flowing characteristics as a SAE 10 single grade oil, but rather than thinning as the temperature rises as an SAE 10 would, it thins no more than a SAE 40. Similarly a 5W 50 starts off as a 5 when the ambient temperature is -18°C and doesn’t thin anymore than a SAE 50 by the time the oil is boiling.

You might wonder why you would ever need a 0W, it’s the same as a 5W with an extra bit of something that keeps it pourable under even worse conditions.

We used to consider Duckham’s 20W 50 as being a thick oil and now we have fully synthetic 10W 60 being recommended. Fortunately the synthetic oils flow better generally, so the comparison is not exact.

In the middle of the UK 10W-40 would be a good choice. 5W-30 would be more appropriate for Norway and 15W-50 for North Africa. Then there are track days…

== Some of the things said on the subject of engine oil. ==

* Castrol say:

Changing the oil every 6 months Magnatec 10W-40 SS would do a good job. Doing any track days, EDGE 10W-60 FS would offer better performance and protection.

For the extra cost they recommend EDGE 10W-60 FS anyway, but do the oil change once a year for low mileage cars, as it will easily do the mileage.

They also recommend EDGE Turbo Diesel 5W-40 and EDGE 5W-30

* On reading some of the posts in early February 2008 Castrol added…

It seems that everyone uses different oil and each are happy so in theory you can use what you like!! Lots of oils will work - but the question is, which one works the best? At the end of the day, everyone will have their favourite, and everyone will have an opinion, but as long as everyone feels they are using what's best for them - great.

Regarding the "don't use a xW-60, but an xW- 50 is ok" - the difference between a 50 and a 60 at 100 degrees is 2.5 centistokes ( i.e. not much ) whereas an xW-40W is around 13 centistokes so quite a bit thinner !

The Formula RS has been replaced by the EDGE Sport 10W-60 which is Castrol's ultimate high performance oil for high powered and tuned engines - We also produce EDGE 10W-60 which is a retail version of TWS Motorsport , a specific BMW formulation for their "M" series engines ( the only oil BMW recommend for the M series for ultimate performance and protection )

Looking at my specifications lists Lotus are now recommending as an initial viscosity, a 10W-60 for Élan Se and S2 (89 – 95) with a note “MINIMUM high temperature viscosity of 50 to 60”

For temperate climates – the note says 10W-30 to 5W-50

Castrol offer a 10W-60 because of our extensive knowledge and experience with high performance engines (take the BMW F1 team cars we lubricate as an example) and we feel that this product offers the best high performance option, based on protection rather than just efficiency.

We also recommend this oil for TVR, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati etc – We haven't had any issues at all with its use that I am aware of.

* ESM says:

Fully synthetic oils are the best by some distance. Friction losses in engines drops by around 4% with a synthetic oil - this gives more power and more economy. They also are the most effective at limiting wear - which is why many engines are best run in with a non-synthetic.

Some older engines (I mean older, I don't mean late 80s) need a more viscous oil because the bearing clearances are larger. Chris Foulds doesn't like synthetics too much largely because of this.

Different oils swell/shrink seals differently. So if you have a borderline seal. One oil may be worse than another for loss through that seal. Which oil minimises your loss may vary depending on which seal causes the leak because all seals aren't all of the same composition. Oil formulation is scarily basic when it comes to seal compatibility; they are formulated with a mixture of elements known to cause either seal shrinkage or swell which are balanced to break even(ish). So worse oil loss isn't necessarily a synthetic vs semi or non-synthetic oil issue more a formulation to formulation issue (if Mobil 1 gives you issues another synthetic 0W40 oil might be better).

Synthetic oils can achieve low cold viscosities. So HVLs will pressurise faster with them, although any drips from leaky seals will be worse for the same reason. I'd certainly go 0W for choice. I prefer a W40 because it will give greater engine protection than a W30 (as a result of its higher viscosity) and the last approval Lotus issued was for a 0W40 not a 0W30. That's not to say a W30 won't be ok and it will incur less in the way of viscous losses but I'd say the Elan's engine is from the W40 oil technology era and so I stick with that because clearances etc are likely to have been designed with that level of viscosity in mind.

Engines run with synthetic oils are cleaner, if you put synthetic oil in an engine previously run on non-synthetic you can dislodge a lot of gunge so run a short first oil/filter change interval if you switch.

* Amsoil says:

To use any 60 grade oil in these engines is crazy. This is the thickest grade of engine oil there is. Whilst we sell a 60 grade its confined to pre war Harley Davidsons and nitro drag cars whose superchargers force the fuel past the rings (if they have them) and into the oil therby diluting it; so they start thick to end up with something that will let the engine survive.
If you are tracking your car and the temperatures are so high that the use of a 60 grade oil means that its effectively a 30 or 40 at these temperatures then please ask yourselves about the efficiency of the rad or oil coolers (if fitted) Bottom line is get the temperatures down and use the correct grade. The engine oil is meant to be an indespensible part of the engines system rather than being used as a prop. The problem with thick oil is that it causes more friction / pumping losses which in itself creats extra heat , robs power and efficiency and can actually lead to oil starvation when an oil pump cavitates.
Edge is a good product but please stick to what the manufactures originally specified. The improvements in oil which mainly refer to the appearance of full synthetics, have resulted in very much stonger and longerlasting products. Amsoils products are at least 3-5 times the film strength of mineral oils and this strength allows the use of thinner oils to advantage.
Not too sure how a synthetic oil can be thinner than a mineral oil? If it where it would just be graded differently so that it would be the same , if that makes sense.

* And...

Be a bit careful with oils that have a gap between the 2 numbers of 40 or even more. (ie 0w-40 5w-50 etc) These are generally 'weak' oils that have additives (VI's) viscocity improvers to stretch the difference between cold and hot thickness. The VI's resist the thinning effects of heat so the 5w-50 is actually a 5 grade oil that with the added VI's doesnt thin down like it should and when new can maintain a 50 grade hot. The VI's are long molecule chains and as such are litterally chopped up and broken by the piston rings and engine heat. They then cannot stop the natural thinning, and the oil that you thought was thick is now no longer. You are better off with a quality 20w-50 unless you wish to change the oil often.

== On the subject of high mileage engines ==

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php...28&highlight=1 Also see here]

* Here’s what Castrol had to say.

If the engine was very dirty, and had not had regular oil changes, and the engine has a bit of wear - then it is possible where there could be some carbon deposits built up around the valve guide seals and piston rings where this carbon is actually providing a final seal - if an engine oil with good detergent properties is used, then over time it can clean away the deposits and you could get some extra usage - but you wouldn't see this straight away.
A more likely scenario could be that the oil is oxidised so it is thicker - when you change the oil, the new oil will be thinner and would also show up any wear - especially is it a synthetic which tend to be thinner than the equivalent mineral oils.
If in doubt then a semi synthetic would probably be better bet - detergents in oil don't necessarily "clean" the engine, but stop dirt sticking to it, and hold it in the oil so when it's changed the dirt is flushed away.

From this you could assume for high mileage engines that have always been running on semi synthetic oil it may be best to stick with it.

== What LEC members are using… ==

* Gareth: Changed from 10W/30 to 10W/40

* Paul: Duckhams 10W/40 to Castrol Edge Sport 0W/40 found a slight leak, going back to 10W-40

* Muley, Jim: I’ve Been using Mobil 0W/40 but switched to the Castrol Edge 0W/40 as the car had nearly 70,000 miles. Now Mobil 5W/40

* Paul P: Castrol RS 0W/60 FS 110,000miles

* Simon P: Put 0W FS in - Made the valve lifters noisy so switched back to 10W its quiet again (10W?)

* Kmckmc: Shell 5W/40 - Castrol FORMULA RS 10W/50 - Mobile One 5W/50 - Selenia 10W/60 - Shell Ultra Helix 5W/40 - Fuchs Titan Super Syn 5W/50

* Elanlover: From "unknown" to Amsoil synthetic Euro spec 5W/40 - engine and tappets much quieter

* ScottJ: Halfords 5W/40 FS since purchase at 115,000 till now at 142,000.

* L.G: Shell 5W/40 FS to Mobil 15W/50 MS(mineral) back to Shell 5W/40 FS because oil pressure light stayed on for a split second after starting the engine. Now back to normal.

* Josler: Mobil One 0W/40. Turbo. Complained of noise. Changed to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 SS

* Johnny: 15W/50 FS (Make?)

* LGM: Valvoline VR1 Racing 10W/30 FS Used Mobile 0W/40 FS with good results. Tried Castrol 5W/30 FS but found lifters were clattering for awhile.

* The Bard: Mobil 5W/30 FS

* Ekapol: From SS Castrol 5W/30 to FS Mobil One 10W/30 engine is much quieter.

* Enright: Mobil One 0W/40 FS

* Oliver: Elf LDX 5W/40 The HVL's seem quieter than they used to with Mobil One 0w-40. Doesn't appear to burn any either (87k miles).

* Rambo: Shell Helix Ultra 5W/40

* Ultimatt: Reverting back to Mobil One 0W/40 FS

* markVasey: From Mobil 15W/50 to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 - N/A (still burning oil)

* Rip: Edge Sport 10W-60 1990 SE Turbo 74000 miles

* RayD: Valvoline Syn Power 5W/50 FS, to Valvoline VR1 Racing 5W/50 FS 40,000 miles, SE Turbo

* Dico: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 FS 44,000 miles, Turbo Purchase car 4 years ago at 30,000 miles. Changed oil and filter every 3000 miles.

* Sy: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 70,000 - 110,000 miles, SE Turbo
Changed engine about 3,000 miles ago because old engine was burning oil regardless of type.

* Clemo: Redline Racing oil. 5W/30 FS
Full engine rebuild 6000 miles ago. NA now reading 116000. changing oil and filter every spring . Covering about 900 miles a year. Using Redline MTL gearbox oil.

* Martin R: Silkolene 10w/50

* Specky: Mobil Super S 10W/40( .....Edit.... very noisy lifters..Looking for an Alternative)

* Steve A: Mobil One 0W/40 52,000 miles

* Dermotbell: Castrol Edge 10W/60

* Monty: Mainly used Mobil 0w/40 and Ocasionly Halfords 5w/40 but Pinky is using a wee bit of oil. So Just done a service with Comma Motorsports full synthetic 5w/50 and K & N oil filter.

* Paza1: Unknown oil with Lotus filter, Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic with Lotus filter, then Mobil 1 0w/40 with Lotus filter. Update, lifters too noisey, back to Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic.

Porting the wastegate

2008-05-17T23:57:25Z

Foo: Undo revision 1508 by Foo (Talk)

{{stub}}

One of the first jobs is to remove the heatshields from around the manifold and pre-cat housing.

== Top heatshield removal ==

On the majority of SE's, there is no [[Oxygen (Lambda) sensor]] and the top heatshield can be removed by removing the three retaining bolts (M6 x 10mm) using a 10mm spanner.

On S2, Fed, some ROW Elans and a handful of SE's, there is a sensor, which can sometimes be difficult to remove even after frequent dousing in penetrating oil, heat and using the correct lambda socket. The top heatshield '''can''' be removed without removing the sensor however. First remove the three retaining bolts and raise the heatshield as high as it will go.

[[image:Turbo_top_heatshield_removal_1.jpg|Raise heatshield]]

Gently raise the RHS of the heatshield and the gap will widen (shown by the red arrows) as the heatshield bends on the PAS mounting bolt (shown by the blue arrow).

[[image:Turbo_top_heatshield_removal_2+.jpg|Bend heatshield]]

Eventually, it should be possible to pop the heatshield over the top of the sensor and the heatshield will spring back to its original shape.

[[image:Turbo_top_heatshield_removal_3.jpg|Remove heatshield]]

Now simply unplug the sensor connector and release it from the bodywork by sliding to the side. The heatshield can then be removed completely.

== Exhaust manifold heatshield removal ==

GS: WIP

== GS Notes ==

''Remove the top turbo oil pipe completely - banjo on top of turbo, retaining clip on right of manifold and banjo on back of engine.

''Remove the three studs from the exhaust flange and remove the gasket.

''Remove the three wastegate capsule retaining bolts, C clip on bottom of wastegate actuator and all pipes then remove the wastegate capsule complete. This aid removal and helps avoid scratching the paintwork.

''Loosen the EGR pipe clamp on the side of the thermostat housing, pull back the EGR pipe and remove gasket (if EGR is fitted of course).

''Check that everything is clear and that there is a suitable place to put the manifold/precat/turbo as it is '''very heavy'''.

''Remove the last exhaust manifold nut, gently pull the whole assembly forwards until it is clear of the studs. The left hand stud may not be clear and the manifold may be fouling the PAS bracket nut - in which case gently lever the whole assembly to the right using the PAS bracket as the fulcrum and it will be released as the hole is open to the left hand side.

''Remove ...........................

== Porting the wastegate ==

Plug cavity to turbo.

Tie back the wastegate actuator arm

Lubricate the stone and don't let it get too hot.

Periodically, clean out the debris with a toothbrush or similar.

When complete, thoroughly wash out to remove all debris - remember, it is abrasive and you don't want that in your turbo!

Clean out the pivot hole on the capsule actuation arm.

== CLEAN! ==

Everything!

==Reassembly==

* Attach oil drain pipe to bottom of turbo.

* Attach water inlet/outlet pipes to turbo fitting new copper washers (12mm ID & 18mm OD x 1mm).

* Attach the small heatshields (left and right) to the exhaust manifold.

* Attach the wastegate manifold to the turbo.

* Make sure all pipes are clear (and in particular the EGR pipe ), fit the EGR gasket, fit the exhaust manifold gasket on the bolts then lower the turbo assembly into position. Angle the side by the PAS pump towards the engine and insert the slotted hole ever the stud. When the manifold studs are aligned, gently push so the exhaust manifold engages with the bolts; screw on two manifold nuts to retain the manifold loosely in position.

* Loosely fit the remaining 7 manifold nuts.

* Attach the turbo oil return pipe.

* Gently press the EGR pipe into the hole in the manifold.

* Fix the water pipe bracket, taking care to bolt though the heatshield.

* Attach the turbo water cooling pipes (top and bottom).

* Loosely clamp the oil feed banjo to the block fitting new copper washers (10mm ID & 16mm OD x 1mm) then loosely clamp the bracket onto the coolant bracket.

* '''Fill the turbo with clean oil.'''

* Fit the top banjo loosely to the turbo fitting new copper washers (10mm ID & 16mm OD x 1mm)

* Tighten the manifold nuts to the specified torque in the correct sequence. Unless you have a torque spanner, it is impossible to get a torque wrench into all nuts - pull the torque wrench at the same distance as the length of spanner you're going to use then use a pipe or rag around the spanner to make it a similar diameter to the torque wrench. You should be able to estimate the torque reasonably well - about three grunts in my case!

* Tighten both turbo oil feed banjos and the intermediate clamp.

* Fit wastegate manifold bracket to block and wastegate manifold.

* Loosely fit dipstick bracket. Loosely fit the dipstick pipe to the bracket then connect to engine. Tighten bracket and pipe.

* Fit the top (manifold ) heatshield.

* Fit the turbo outlet pipe.

* Fit the wastegate capsule - lubricate the pivot with Copaslip or similar, engage in wastegate arm, attach the pipe, fix the capsule to the turbo, clamp the pipe and attach the C clip to the wastegate arm.

* Fix the EGR to the manifold then tighten up the EGR pipe clamp.

* Attach the engine hoist bracket and fix the turbo water cooling pipe to the bracket.

* Fix the two studs at the bottom of the wastegate manifold, fit the gasket with some exhaust paste then attach the pre-cat to the manifold with two nuts. Fix the four remaining bolts and attach the pre-cat bracket to the pre-cat and block.

* Fit the lower pre-cat gasket with some exhaust paste, fit the three studs in the pre-cat (through the exhaust flange), then tighten up the nuts.

* Fit the lower turbo heatshield - fit all four bolts but only tighten up the bottom two. Remove the top two (shared) bolts as these were in place solely to make sure the holes were aligned.

* Fit the top turbo heatshield.

* Fit the oxygen sensor.

* Remove the lower (shared) bolt from the bottom turbo heatshield and fit the pre-cat heatshield.

[[Category:Incomplete]]
[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:Wastegate]]
[[Category:Turbo]]

Porting the wastegate

2008-05-17T23:56:31Z

Foo: Undo revision 1511 by Foo (Talk)

{{stub}}

One of the first jobs is to remove the heatshields from around the manifold and pre-cat housing.

== Top heatshield removal ==

On the majority of SE's, there is no [[Oxygen (Lambda) sensor]] and the top heatshield can be removed by removing the three retaining bolts (M6 x 10mm) using a 10mm spanner.

On S2, Fed, some ROW Elans and a handful of SE's, there is a sensor, which can sometimes be difficult to remove even after frequent dousing in penetrating oil, heat and using the correct lambda socket. The top heatshield '''can''' be removed without removing the sensor however. First remove the three retaining bolts and raise the heatshield as high as it will go.

[[image:Turbo_top_heatshield_removal_1.jpg|Raise heatshield]]

Gently raise the RHS of the heatshield and the gap will widen (shown by the red arrows) as the heatshield bends on the PAS mounting bolt (shown by the blue arrow).

[[image:Turbo_top_heatshield_removal_2+.jpg|Bend heatshield]]

Eventually, it should be possible to pop the heatshield over the top of the sensor and the heatshield will spring back to its original shape.

[[image:Turbo_top_heatshield_removal_3.jpg|Remove heatshield]]

Now simply unplug the sensor connector and release it from the bodywork by sliding to the side. The heatshield can then be removed completely.

== Exhaust manifold heatshield removal ==

GS: WIP

== GS Notes ==

''Remove the top turbo oil pipe completely - banjo on top of turbo, retaining clip on right of manifold and banjo on back of engine.

''Remove the three studs from the exhaust flange and remove the gasket.

''Remove the three wastegate capsule retaining bolts, C clip on bottom of wastegate actuator and all pipes then remove the wastegate capsule complete. This aid removal and helps avoid scratching the paintwork.

''Loosen the EGR pipe clamp on the side of the thermostat housing, pull back the EGR pipe and remove gasket (if EGR is fitted of course).

''Check that everything is clear and that there is a suitable place to put the manifold/precat/turbo as it is '''very heavy'''.

''Remove the last exhaust manifold nut, gently pull the whole assembly forwards until it is clear of the studs. The left hand stud may not be clear and the manifold may be fouling the PAS bracket nut - in which case gently lever the whole assembly to the right using the PAS bracket as the fulcrum and it will be released as the hole is open to the left hand side.

''Remove ...........................

== Porting the wastegate ==

Plug cavity to turbo.

Tie back the wastegate actuator arm

Lubricate the stone and don't let it get too hot.

Periodically, clean out the debris with a toothbrush or similar.

When complete, thoroughly wash out to remove all debris - remember, it is abrasive and you don't want that in your turbo!

Clean out the pivot hole on the capsule actuation arm.

== CLEAN! ==

Everything!

==Re-Assembly==

# Attach oil drain pipe to bottom of turbo.
# Attach water inlet/outlet pipes to turbo fitting new copper washers (12mm ID & 18mm OD x 1mm).
# Attach the small heatshields (left and right) to the exhaust manifold.
# Attach the wastegate manifold to the turbo.
# Make sure all pipes are clear (and in particular the EGR pipe )
# Fit the EGR gasket
# Fit the exhaust manifold gasket on the bolts.
# Lower the turbo assembly into position.
# Angle the side by the PAS pump towards the engine and insert the slotted hole ever the stud.
# When the manifold studs are aligned, gently push so the exhaust manifold engages with the bolts; screw on two manifold nuts to retain the manifold loosely in position.
# Loosely fit the remaining 7 manifold nuts.
# Attach the turbo oil return pipe.
# Gently press the EGR pipe into the hole in the manifold.
# Fix the water pipe bracket, taking care to bolt though the heatshield.
# Attach the turbo water cooling pipes (top and bottom).
# Loosely clamp the oil feed banjo to the block fitting new copper washers (10mm ID & 16mm OD x 1mm) then loosely clamp the bracket onto the coolant bracket.
# '''Fill the turbo with clean oil.'''
# Fit the top banjo loosely to the turbo fitting new copper washers (10mm ID & 16mm OD x 1mm)
# Tighten the manifold nuts to the specified torque in the correct sequence. Unless you have a torque spanner, it is impossible to get a torque wrench into all nuts - pull the torque wrench at the same distance as the length of spanner you're going to use then use a pipe or rag around the spanner to make it a similar diameter to the torque wrench. You should be able to estimate the torque reasonably well - about three grunts in my case!
# Tighten both turbo oil feed banjos and the intermediate clamp.
# Fit wastegate manifold bracket to block and wastegate manifold.
# Loosely fit dipstick bracket. Loosely fit the dipstick pipe to the bracket then connect to engine. Tighten bracket and pipe.
# Fit the top (manifold ) heatshield.
# Fit the turbo outlet pipe.
# Fit the wastegate capsule - lubricate the pivot with Copaslip or similar, engage in wastegate arm, attach the pipe, fix the capsule to the turbo, clamp the pipe and attach the C clip to the wastegate arm.
# Fix the EGR to the manifold then tighten up the EGR pipe clamp.
# Attach the engine hoist bracket and fix the turbo water cooling pipe to the bracket.
# Fix the two studs at the bottom of the wastegate manifold, fit the gasket with some exhaust paste then attach the pre-cat to the manifold with two nuts. Fix the four remaining bolts and attach the pre-cat bracket to the pre-cat and block.
# Fit the lower pre-cat gasket with some exhaust paste, fit the three studs in the pre-cat (through the exhaust flange), then tighten up the nuts.
# Fit the lower turbo heatshield - fit all four bolts but only tighten up the bottom two. Remove the top two (shared) bolts as these were in place solely to make sure the holes were aligned.
# Fit the top turbo heatshield.
# Fit the oxygen sensor.
# Remove the lower (shared) bolt from the bottom turbo heatshield and fit the pre-cat heatshield.

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:Wastegate]]
[[Category:Turbo]]

Paint Colour Codes

2008-05-17T18:05:53Z

Foo: Layout & Info

__NOTOC__

Below are the standard Elan colours available when new.

{{warning|text='''Buyer Beware:''' The colours below are the standard Elan colours when the car left the factory. If a car's been resprayed with a different colour, it '''may''' have been involved in a crash or had serious damage in its history. Tread carefully when buying any car that has been resprayed.}}

Often, the paint colour code for your Elan can be found on the VIN plate located in the engine bay, although it seems that not all cars have the colour code present.

* ‘A’ prefix paint codes are used for cars finished in ICI 2K two pack acrylic polyurethane paint introduced around 1977.
* ‘B’ codes indicate DuPont basecoat/clear acrylic enamel paint introduced during 1991, with water based paints being phased in during 1997.

The paint code number is often stamped in the lower left corner of the vehicle identification plate fixed to the wheelarch in the front engine compartment, if your car does not have this code present, Lotus Customer Service (01953 6080000) will be able to tell you the colour code if you quote your VIN in full.

== ICI Colours ==
{| style="width:100%; background:#fcfcfc; margin-top:1.2em; border:1px solid #024a15;"
! Lotus Code || Option Code || Name || ICI's Code || Lotus part #
|-
| A21 || IAAB || Monaco White || P4207517|| A089B6149V || [[Image:Summer.jpg|50px]]
|-
| A23 || IABB || Calypso Red || P420GJ23 || A089B6150V || [[Image:Elan CalypsoRed2.jpg|50px]]
|-
| A45 || IADB || Silver Frost || P4217805 || A082B6087V || [[Image:Elan SilverFrost2.jpg|50px]]
|-
| A59 || IAJB || Steel Blue || P4218118M || A082B6116V || [[Image:Elan SteelBlue2.jpg|50px]]
|-
| A64 || IAOB || Norfolk Mustard || P420WD55 || A082B6192V || [[Image:Elan NorfolkMustard.jpg|50px]]
|-
| A65 || IAEB || British Racing Green || P420GE51 || A089B6197V || [[Image:Elan BritishRacingGreen.jpg|50px]]
|-
| A68 || IANB || Pacific Blue || P4217750 || A089B6196V || [[Image:Elan PacificBlue2.jpg|50px]]
|}

== Du-Pont Colours ==
{| style="width:100%; background:#fcfcfc; margin-top:1.2em; border:1px solid #024a15;"
! Lotus Code || Option Code || Name || Dupont's Code || Lotus Part #
|-
| B01 || IAAB || Monaco White || ABN9149 || A100B6240V || [[Image:Summer.jpg|50px]]
|-
| B02 || IACB || Black || AB47600 || A100B6240V || [[Image:Elan Black.jpg|50px]]
|-
| B03 || IABB || Calypso Red || ABK9197 || A100B6239V || [[Image:Elan CalypsoRed2.jpg|50px]]
|-
| B04 || IAEB || British Racing Green || ABK9349 || A100B6238V || [[Image:Elan BritishRacingGreen.jpg|50px]]
|-
| B05 || IAOB || Norfolk Mustard || ABN9561 || A100B6237V || [[Image:Elan NorfolkMustard.jpg|50px]]
|-
| B06 || IAQB || Aqua Blue || ABK9253 || A100B6255V || [[Image:Elan AquaBlue2.jpg|50px]]
|-
| B07 || IARB || Silk Red || ABL9683 || B100B6254V || [[Image:Elan SilkRed2.jpg|50px]]
|-
| B08 || IANB || Pacific Blue || ABN9144 || A100V6234V || [[Image:Elan PacificBlue2.jpg|50px]]
|-
| B09 || IADB || Silver Frost || ABL9056 || A100B6235V || [[Image:Elan SilverFrost2.jpg|50px]]
|-
| B10 || IAJB || Steel Blue || ABN9148 || A100B6236V || [[Image:Elan SteelBlue2.jpg|50px]]
|-
| B13 || || Metallic Black || ABN8113 || A082B6313F ||
|-
| B16 || || Empire Green || ABW9320 || A082B6299F ||
|-
| B18 || || Medina Green Metallic || N9888 || A082B6301F || [[Image:Elan MedinaGreen.jpg|50px]]
|-
| B19 || || Palacio Purple || 3E321 || A082B6302F || [[Image:Elan PalacioPurple.jpg|50px]]
|-
| B20 || || Azure Blue ||L9890 || A082B6303F || [[Image:Elan AzureBlue.jpg|50px]]
|-
| B21 || || Lotus Racing Green Metallic || L9051 || A082B6304F || [[Image:Green.jpg|50px]]
|-
| B42 || || Midnight Blue ||L8632 || A082B6335F || [[Image:Elan MidnightBlue2.jpg|50px]]
|-
| B45 || || Cranberry Red ||N9571 || || [[Image:Elan CranberryRed.jpg|50px]]
|-
| B48 || || Mauritius Blue Metallic|| H9322 || || [[Image:Elan MauritiusBlue.jpg|50px]]
|-
| B51 || || Pearl White Metallic || ABN9150 || || [[Image:Elan PearlWhite.jpg|50px]]
|-
| B52 || || Magenta Metallic || H9883 || ||
|}

== External Links ==
* [http://www.grouplotus.com/media/car/doc/Paint%20Codes_Website.pdf Group Lotus Paint Code information] (PDF File)
* [http://www.mikecauser.com/lotus/parts/paint_codes.html Mike Causer's Paint Code Information]

[[Category:UsefulInfo]]

Porting the wastegate

2008-05-14T13:13:22Z

Foo: Restructure, cleanup.

{{stub}}
__TOC__

[[Wastegate]] porting is an expansion of the wastegate orifice to accomodate greater release of boost pressure while the wastegate is open.

The purpose of porting is to reduce or eliminate:
* Overboost (too much boost, which can blow the engine
* Boost Creep (a progressive increase in boost during a period of heavy boosting)

= Procedure =

== Step 1: Remove Heat-Shields ==

One of the first jobs is to remove the heatshields from around the manifold and pre-cat housing.

=== Top Heat-Shield ===

On the majority of SE's, there is no [[Oxygen (Lambda) sensor]] and the top heatshield can be removed by removing the three retaining bolts (M6 x 10mm) using a 10mm spanner.

On S2, Fed, some ROW Elans and a handful of SE's, there is a sensor, which can sometimes be difficult to remove even after frequent dousing in penetrating oil, heat and using the correct lambda socket. The top heatshield '''can''' be removed without removing the sensor however. First remove the three retaining bolts and raise the heatshield as high as it will go.

Gently raise the RHS of the heatshield and the gap will widen (shown by the red arrows) as the heatshield bends on the PAS mounting bolt (shown by the blue arrow).
<gallery>
Image:Turbo_top_heatshield_removal_1.jpg|Raise heatshield
</gallery>

Eventually, it should be possible to pop the heatshield over the top of the sensor and the heatshield will spring back to its original shape.
<gallery>
Image:Turbo_top_heatshield_removal_2+.jpg|Bend heatshield
</gallery>

Now unplug the sensor connector and release it from the bodywork by sliding to the side. The heatshield can then be removed completely.
<gallery>
Image:Turbo_top_heatshield_removal_3.jpg|Remove heatshield
</gallery>

== Exhaust manifold Heat-Shield ==

{{StubSection}}

== GS Notes ==

''Remove the top turbo oil pipe completely - banjo on top of turbo, retaining clip on right of manifold and banjo on back of engine.

''Remove the three studs from the exhaust flange and remove the gasket.

''Remove the three wastegate capsule retaining bolts, C clip on bottom of wastegate actuator and all pipes then remove the wastegate capsule complete. This aid removal and helps avoid scratching the paintwork.

''Loosen the EGR pipe clamp on the side of the thermostat housing, pull back the EGR pipe and remove gasket (if EGR is fitted of course).

''Check that everything is clear and that there is a suitable place to put the manifold/precat/turbo as it is '''very heavy'''.

''Remove the last exhaust manifold nut, gently pull the whole assembly forwards until it is clear of the studs. The left hand stud may not be clear and the manifold may be fouling the PAS bracket nut - in which case gently lever the whole assembly to the right using the PAS bracket as the fulcrum and it will be released as the hole is open to the left hand side.

''Remove ...........................

== Step 2: Port the Wastegate ==

# Plug cavity to turbo.
# Tie back the wastegate actuator arm
# Lubricate the stone and don't let it get too hot.
# Periodically, clean out the debris with a toothbrush or similar.
# When complete, thoroughly wash out to remove all debris - remember, it is abrasive and you don't want that in your turbo!
# Clean out the pivot hole on the capsule actuation arm.

{{warning|text=At this point ''Clean everything''.}}

== Step 3: Re-Assembly ==

# Attach oil drain pipe to bottom of turbo.
# Attach water inlet/outlet pipes to turbo fitting new copper washers (12mm ID & 18mm OD x 1mm).
# Attach the small heatshields (left and right) to the exhaust manifold.
# Attach the wastegate manifold to the turbo.
# Make sure all pipes are clear (and in particular the EGR pipe )
# Fit the EGR gasket
# Fit the exhaust manifold gasket on the bolts.
# Lower the turbo assembly into position.
# Angle the side by the PAS pump towards the engine and insert the slotted hole ever the stud.
# When the manifold studs are aligned, gently push so the exhaust manifold engages with the bolts; screw on two manifold nuts to retain the manifold loosely in position.
# Loosely fit the remaining 7 manifold nuts.
# Attach the turbo oil return pipe.
# Gently press the EGR pipe into the hole in the manifold.
# Fix the water pipe bracket, taking care to bolt though the heatshield.
# Attach the turbo water cooling pipes (top and bottom).
# Loosely clamp the oil feed banjo to the block fitting new copper washers (10mm ID & 16mm OD x 1mm) then loosely clamp the bracket onto the coolant bracket.
# '''Fill the turbo with clean oil.'''
# Fit the top banjo loosely to the turbo fitting new copper washers (10mm ID & 16mm OD x 1mm)
# Tighten the manifold nuts to the specified torque in the correct sequence. Unless you have a torque spanner, it is impossible to get a torque wrench into all nuts - pull the torque wrench at the same distance as the length of spanner you're going to use then use a pipe or rag around the spanner to make it a similar diameter to the torque wrench. You should be able to estimate the torque reasonably well - about three grunts in my case!
# Tighten both turbo oil feed banjos and the intermediate clamp.
# Fit wastegate manifold bracket to block and wastegate manifold.
# Loosely fit dipstick bracket. Loosely fit the dipstick pipe to the bracket then connect to engine. Tighten bracket and pipe.
# Fit the top (manifold ) heatshield.
# Fit the turbo outlet pipe.
# Fit the wastegate capsule - lubricate the pivot with Copaslip or similar, engage in wastegate arm, attach the pipe, fix the capsule to the turbo, clamp the pipe and attach the C clip to the wastegate arm.
# Fix the EGR to the manifold then tighten up the EGR pipe clamp.
# Attach the engine hoist bracket and fix the turbo water cooling pipe to the bracket.
# Fix the two studs at the bottom of the wastegate manifold, fit the gasket with some exhaust paste then attach the pre-cat to the manifold with two nuts. Fix the four remaining bolts and attach the pre-cat bracket to the pre-cat and block.
# Fit the lower pre-cat gasket with some exhaust paste, fit the three studs in the pre-cat (through the exhaust flange), then tighten up the nuts.
# Fit the lower turbo heatshield - fit all four bolts but only tighten up the bottom two. Remove the top two (shared) bolts as these were in place solely to make sure the holes were aligned.
# Fit the top turbo heatshield.
# Fit the oxygen sensor.
# Remove the lower (shared) bolt from the bottom turbo heatshield and fit the pre-cat heatshield.

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:Wastegate]]
[[Category:Turbo]]

Template:StubSection

2008-05-14T13:09:38Z

Foo: StubSection

{| width="100%" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" style="border:1px solid #CCCCCC; background:#EEEEEE;"
|-
|[[Image:Info_non-talk.png]]
|This article section is incomplete and needs expansion. You can help WikiLEC by [{{fullurl:{{FULLPAGENAME}}|action=edit}} expanding it].
|}

[[Category:Stubs]]

Wastegate

2008-05-14T13:02:28Z

Foo: Wikipedia link

__TOC__
The wastegate is involved in the release of pressure from the turbo to regulate the level of boost.

==Sticky Wastegate==

This '''IS''' going to happen, sometime. The symptoms can be:

* Lack of boost and power (wastegate stuck open).
* Uneven boost and power delivery (generally sticky).
* Wheel-smoking levels of boost and power (wastegate stuck shut) usually closely followed by fuel cut-off and minimal power for 30 seconds at the most inopportune moment plus illumination of the CEL light and a code 31 - see [[Check_Engine_Light_Problems|CEL codes]].

See [[Releasing a sticky wastegate]]

==Porting the Wastegate==

Porting the wastegate involves boring out the wastegate hole so that it is larger and can therefore release more pressure more quickly. This can be important to prevent overboost when a large bore exhaust has been fitted.

See [[Porting the wastegate]]

== External Links==
* [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wastegate Wikipedia's Wastegate article]

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:Wastegate]]
[[Category:Turbo]]
[[Category:Components]]

Porting the wastegate

2008-05-14T12:54:09Z

Foo: /* Reassembly */ - Numbered List

{{stub}}

One of the first jobs is to remove the heatshields from around the manifold and pre-cat housing.

== Top heatshield removal ==

On the majority of SE's, there is no [[Oxygen (Lambda) sensor]] and the top heatshield can be removed by removing the three retaining bolts (M6 x 10mm) using a 10mm spanner.

On S2, Fed, some ROW Elans and a handful of SE's, there is a sensor, which can sometimes be difficult to remove even after frequent dousing in penetrating oil, heat and using the correct lambda socket. The top heatshield '''can''' be removed without removing the sensor however. First remove the three retaining bolts and raise the heatshield as high as it will go.

[[image:Turbo_top_heatshield_removal_1.jpg|Raise heatshield]]

Gently raise the RHS of the heatshield and the gap will widen (shown by the red arrows) as the heatshield bends on the PAS mounting bolt (shown by the blue arrow).

[[image:Turbo_top_heatshield_removal_2+.jpg|Bend heatshield]]

Eventually, it should be possible to pop the heatshield over the top of the sensor and the heatshield will spring back to its original shape.

[[image:Turbo_top_heatshield_removal_3.jpg|Remove heatshield]]

Now simply unplug the sensor connector and release it from the bodywork by sliding to the side. The heatshield can then be removed completely.

== Exhaust manifold heatshield removal ==

GS: WIP

== GS Notes ==

''Remove the top turbo oil pipe completely - banjo on top of turbo, retaining clip on right of manifold and banjo on back of engine.

''Remove the three studs from the exhaust flange and remove the gasket.

''Remove the three wastegate capsule retaining bolts, C clip on bottom of wastegate actuator and all pipes then remove the wastegate capsule complete. This aid removal and helps avoid scratching the paintwork.

''Loosen the EGR pipe clamp on the side of the thermostat housing, pull back the EGR pipe and remove gasket (if EGR is fitted of course).

''Check that everything is clear and that there is a suitable place to put the manifold/precat/turbo as it is '''very heavy'''.

''Remove the last exhaust manifold nut, gently pull the whole assembly forwards until it is clear of the studs. The left hand stud may not be clear and the manifold may be fouling the PAS bracket nut - in which case gently lever the whole assembly to the right using the PAS bracket as the fulcrum and it will be released as the hole is open to the left hand side.

''Remove ...........................

== Porting the wastegate ==

Plug cavity to turbo.

Tie back the wastegate actuator arm

Lubricate the stone and don't let it get too hot.

Periodically, clean out the debris with a toothbrush or similar.

When complete, thoroughly wash out to remove all debris - remember, it is abrasive and you don't want that in your turbo!

Clean out the pivot hole on the capsule actuation arm.

== CLEAN! ==

Everything!

==Re-Assembly==

# Attach oil drain pipe to bottom of turbo.
# Attach water inlet/outlet pipes to turbo fitting new copper washers (12mm ID & 18mm OD x 1mm).
# Attach the small heatshields (left and right) to the exhaust manifold.
# Attach the wastegate manifold to the turbo.
# Make sure all pipes are clear (and in particular the EGR pipe )
# Fit the EGR gasket
# Fit the exhaust manifold gasket on the bolts.
# Lower the turbo assembly into position.
# Angle the side by the PAS pump towards the engine and insert the slotted hole ever the stud.
# When the manifold studs are aligned, gently push so the exhaust manifold engages with the bolts; screw on two manifold nuts to retain the manifold loosely in position.
# Loosely fit the remaining 7 manifold nuts.
# Attach the turbo oil return pipe.
# Gently press the EGR pipe into the hole in the manifold.
# Fix the water pipe bracket, taking care to bolt though the heatshield.
# Attach the turbo water cooling pipes (top and bottom).
# Loosely clamp the oil feed banjo to the block fitting new copper washers (10mm ID & 16mm OD x 1mm) then loosely clamp the bracket onto the coolant bracket.
# '''Fill the turbo with clean oil.'''
# Fit the top banjo loosely to the turbo fitting new copper washers (10mm ID & 16mm OD x 1mm)
# Tighten the manifold nuts to the specified torque in the correct sequence. Unless you have a torque spanner, it is impossible to get a torque wrench into all nuts - pull the torque wrench at the same distance as the length of spanner you're going to use then use a pipe or rag around the spanner to make it a similar diameter to the torque wrench. You should be able to estimate the torque reasonably well - about three grunts in my case!
# Tighten both turbo oil feed banjos and the intermediate clamp.
# Fit wastegate manifold bracket to block and wastegate manifold.
# Loosely fit dipstick bracket. Loosely fit the dipstick pipe to the bracket then connect to engine. Tighten bracket and pipe.
# Fit the top (manifold ) heatshield.
# Fit the turbo outlet pipe.
# Fit the wastegate capsule - lubricate the pivot with Copaslip or similar, engage in wastegate arm, attach the pipe, fix the capsule to the turbo, clamp the pipe and attach the C clip to the wastegate arm.
# Fix the EGR to the manifold then tighten up the EGR pipe clamp.
# Attach the engine hoist bracket and fix the turbo water cooling pipe to the bracket.
# Fix the two studs at the bottom of the wastegate manifold, fit the gasket with some exhaust paste then attach the pre-cat to the manifold with two nuts. Fix the four remaining bolts and attach the pre-cat bracket to the pre-cat and block.
# Fit the lower pre-cat gasket with some exhaust paste, fit the three studs in the pre-cat (through the exhaust flange), then tighten up the nuts.
# Fit the lower turbo heatshield - fit all four bolts but only tighten up the bottom two. Remove the top two (shared) bolts as these were in place solely to make sure the holes were aligned.
# Fit the top turbo heatshield.
# Fit the oxygen sensor.
# Remove the lower (shared) bolt from the bottom turbo heatshield and fit the pre-cat heatshield.

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:Wastegate]]
[[Category:Turbo]]

Fuel Filter

2008-05-11T13:42:45Z

Foo: Note

__TOC__

A fairy common filter which is also in use on the same era Lotus Esprit. A point of note is the filter should be fitted with a seal which is not identified in the Elan manual (but is in the Esprit manual).

= Location =

The filter is located in a compartment below the hood stowage area. It is situated towards the left hand side of the bay, behind the metallic panel.

<gallery>
Image:Fuel filter 31.jpg|Fuel Filter cover panel
Image:Fuel filter.jpg|Fuel Filter in housing
</gallery>

== Parts list ==

* Fuel filter - Fram G3727 (Lotus A910E6929F £13.63 ? [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6343 See Here] for alternatives)
* 2 x 'O' rings - MG/Rover part # EDP9976
* 60cm 8mm bore Injection fuel hose
* 2 x jubilee clips (size 0000)

== Tools required ==

* 21mm open-end spanner (wrench)
* 16mm open-end spanner (wrench)
* Cross-head screwdriver
* 10mm socket on 1/4" drive
* Stanley knife
* 7mm socket for jubilee clips

= Replacement Instructions =

{{warning|text='''WARNING - Explosive hazard. Before working on the fuel system, always:'''
* Isolate the battery
* Depressurize the fuel system.
}}

# Lift out the carpet inside your hood stowage cover.
# Take the battery inspection cover and wedge it lengthways between the rear edge of the roof and the front edge of the stowage cover.
# That will give you plenty of room to work (and is a really handy tip if you've ever got any other work to do in that area).
# Undo all the screws and remove the plastic tray. ( The screws, sometimes called Scrivets, appear to be made from plastic, but they are in fact made of chocolate. If the screws round off, a wood chisel is the perfect tool for removing the heads).
# From the driver's side, you'll be able to see the inspection hatch. It's an aluminium plate that's mounted vertically on the RHS of the fuel tank. Remove the 4 screws and voila, there's your fuel filter.

== Removing the filter ==

# Start the engine and then pull the inertia switch.
# The engine should stall and depressurize the fuel lines.
# Remove the battery.
# Release the filter from its clamp with a 10mm socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet. This gives enough clearance to move the actual filter fore and aft to get at the fittings.
# With a 21mm (adjustable) open end spanner on the filter, and a 16mm on the fitting, loosen off the fittings slightly (beware of pressurised residual fuel - have a rag handy!)
## In theory the outer (threaded) part of the fitting will rotate, with the inner bit staying still - Like on a brake pipe.
## In reality, the 2 bits may be rusted solid (mine were, anyway) - hence as you unscrew the fitting, the plastic fuel line 'winds up' and squashes itself flat - weakening it and maybe giving it somewhere to split when under pressure

{{note|text=If you can see fuel-line damage at this point, check below for instructions on fixing it}}

== Fitting a replacement ==

# Replace the 2 rubber 'o' rings on the fittings (Rover part, not mentioned in the Elan manual) and screw the inlet fitting (the loose one!) onto the inlet side of the filter - tighten up with the same 2 spanners you took the old one off with.
# Screw the filter onto the outlet fitting - dangling somewhere next to the tank - and tighten up with spanners. Push it forward a bit to get to the rear fitting.
# Push the loose end of your nice new rubber hose onto the fitting - don't forget the jubilee clip. Do it up.
# Wiggle the new filter back into its locating bracket and replace the bolt.
# Replace the battery
# Reset the isolator
# Turn ignition key as to prime the fuel lines, but do not start the engine.
# Check the new filter for leaks
# Start the engine, check for leaks
# Put the bay back together.

It might sound a bit strange, but if you do it this way, and have the parts you need at hand - it is literally a 10 minute job!

== Fuel-line Damage ==

After a bit of head scratching, you may come to the decision that if you cut the pipe, you can refit the fittings later - if you think that - THINK AGAIN They are a difficult to re-fit - there just isn't enough room to get at it properly.

=== Instructions ===

Go and buy 60cm of rubber high-pressure injection fuel pipe (8mm bore) from your local motor factors - don't forget a couple of jubilee clips (size 000) Then…

==== Removal ====

# Cut the plastic hose about 10mm from the fitting on the INLET side of the filter (rear of the car).
# Catch any fuel which runs out.
# Unscrew the filter from the front (outlet) fitting - leaving that fitting attached to the plastic pipe which runs forward to the engine.
# Remove the filter, with the rear fitting still attached, from the access hole - it will still have quite a bit of petrol in it so be careful. Drain it away carefully, then unscrew the fitting from the filter.
# Carefully cut the plastic pipe off the 8mm tail on the fitting, don't press too hard with the knife - you need to be able to re-seal it later!

You now have that sinking feeling when you realise that you can't get it all back together unless your hands are 3 cm wide and double-jointed - with the ability to exert vast amounts of longitudinal pressure on the pipe joint.

==== Re-Fitting ====

# Remove the 4 screws which hold the cover plate on top of the fuel tank - it is the one with the wires going through it to the sender unit underneath. The screws are actually set screws (bolts) going into rubber scrivets. Pull it to one side, feeding the wire through it as you go to give clearance.
# By waggling the cut end of the plastic fuel line you will see the other end of it on top of the sender unit - carefully cut the plastic pipe on the spigot on top of the tank - it is only plastic, so go careful with Mr. Stanley!
# Pull the pipe out and chuck it away - it's (s)crap.
# Fit the pipe to the fuel tank end and tighten up the jubilee clip - feed the pipe round the top of the tank and down to where the filter lives.

[[Category:Components]]
[[Category:HowTo]]

Fuel Filter

2008-05-11T13:41:39Z

Foo: Layout change

__TOC__

A fairy common filter which is also in use on the same era Lotus Esprit. A point of note is the filter should be fitted with a seal which is not identified in the Elan manual (but is in the Esprit manual).

= Location =

The filter is located in a compartment below the hood stowage area. It is situated towards the left hand side of the bay, behind the metallic panel.

<gallery>
Image:Fuel filter 31.jpg|Fuel Filter cover panel
Image:Fuel filter.jpg|Fuel Filter in housing
</gallery>

== Parts list ==

* Fuel filter - Fram G3727 (Lotus A910E6929F £13.63 ? [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6343 See Here] for alternatives)
* 2 x 'O' rings - MG/Rover part # EDP9976
* 60cm 8mm bore Injection fuel hose
* 2 x jubilee clips (size 0000)

== Tools required ==

* 21mm open-end spanner (wrench)
* 16mm open-end spanner (wrench)
* Cross-head screwdriver
* 10mm socket on 1/4" drive
* Stanley knife
* 7mm socket for jubilee clips

= Replacement Instructions =

{{warning|text='''WARNING - Explosive hazard. Before working on the fuel system, always:'''
* Isolate the battery
* Depressurize the fuel system.
}}

# Lift out the carpet inside your hood stowage cover.
# Take the battery inspection cover and wedge it lengthways between the rear edge of the roof and the front edge of the stowage cover.
# That will give you plenty of room to work (and is a really handy tip if you've ever got any other work to do in that area).
# Undo all the screws and remove the plastic tray. ( The screws, sometimes called Scrivets, appear to be made from plastic, but they are in fact made of chocolate. If the screws round off, a wood chisel is the perfect tool for removing the heads).
# From the driver's side, you'll be able to see the inspection hatch. It's an aluminium plate that's mounted vertically on the RHS of the fuel tank. Remove the 4 screws and voila, there's your fuel filter.

== Removing the filter ==

# Start the engine and then pull the inertia switch.
# The engine should stall and depressurize the fuel lines.
# Remove the battery.
# Release the filter from its clamp with a 10mm socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet. This gives enough clearance to move the actual filter fore and aft to get at the fittings.
# With a 21mm (adjustable) open end spanner on the filter, and a 16mm on the fitting, loosen off the fittings slightly (beware of pressurised residual fuel - have a rag handy!)
## In theory the outer (threaded) part of the fitting will rotate, with the inner bit staying still - Like on a brake pipe.
## In reality, the 2 bits may be rusted solid (mine were, anyway) - hence as you unscrew the fitting, the plastic fuel line 'winds up' and squashes itself flat - weakening it and maybe giving it somewhere to split when under pressure

== Fitting a replacement ==

# Replace the 2 rubber 'o' rings on the fittings (Rover part, not mentioned in the Elan manual) and screw the inlet fitting (the loose one!) onto the inlet side of the filter - tighten up with the same 2 spanners you took the old one off with.
# Screw the filter onto the outlet fitting - dangling somewhere next to the tank - and tighten up with spanners. Push it forward a bit to get to the rear fitting.
# Push the loose end of your nice new rubber hose onto the fitting - don't forget the jubilee clip. Do it up.
# Wiggle the new filter back into its locating bracket and replace the bolt.
# Replace the battery
# Reset the isolator
# Turn ignition key as to prime the fuel lines, but do not start the engine.
# Check the new filter for leaks
# Start the engine, check for leaks
# Put the bay back together.

It might sound a bit strange, but if you do it this way, and have the parts you need at hand - it is literally a 10 minute job!

== Fuel-line Damage ==

After a bit of head scratching, you may come to the decision that if you cut the pipe, you can refit the fittings later - if you think that - THINK AGAIN They are a difficult to re-fit - there just isn't enough room to get at it properly.

=== Instructions ===

Go and buy 60cm of rubber high-pressure injection fuel pipe (8mm bore) from your local motor factors - don't forget a couple of jubilee clips (size 000) Then…

==== Removal ====

# Cut the plastic hose about 10mm from the fitting on the INLET side of the filter (rear of the car).
# Catch any fuel which runs out.
# Unscrew the filter from the front (outlet) fitting - leaving that fitting attached to the plastic pipe which runs forward to the engine.
# Remove the filter, with the rear fitting still attached, from the access hole - it will still have quite a bit of petrol in it so be careful. Drain it away carefully, then unscrew the fitting from the filter.
# Carefully cut the plastic pipe off the 8mm tail on the fitting, don't press too hard with the knife - you need to be able to re-seal it later!

You now have that sinking feeling when you realise that you can't get it all back together unless your hands are 3 cm wide and double-jointed - with the ability to exert vast amounts of longitudinal pressure on the pipe joint.

==== Re-Fitting ====

# Remove the 4 screws which hold the cover plate on top of the fuel tank - it is the one with the wires going through it to the sender unit underneath. The screws are actually set screws (bolts) going into rubber scrivets. Pull it to one side, feeding the wire through it as you go to give clearance.
# By waggling the cut end of the plastic fuel line you will see the other end of it on top of the sender unit - carefully cut the plastic pipe on the spigot on top of the tank - it is only plastic, so go careful with Mr. Stanley!
# Pull the pipe out and chuck it away - it's (s)crap.
# Fit the pipe to the fuel tank end and tighten up the jubilee clip - feed the pipe round the top of the tank and down to where the filter lives.

[[Category:Components]]
[[Category:HowTo]]

Engine - location of components

2008-05-11T13:27:33Z

Foo: Category:Engine

[[Image:Engine_Component_Location.gif]]

[[Category:Components]]
[[Category:Engine]]

Category:Engine

2008-05-11T13:26:50Z

Foo: Category:Components

[[Category:Components]]

Door Trim

2008-05-11T13:25:58Z

Foo: Layout updated

__NOTOC__

== Inner Panel Removal ==

Q. How do you remove the inner panel door trim?
A. With great difficulty unless you know how.

This is a very common question as there are lots of door related issues: rattles, speakers and electric windows.
A good starting point is a visit to your dealer to obtain some spare orange plastic door button retaining clips.

[[Image:Orange_Clip.jpg|thumb|right|The Orange Clip]]

# Prise out the orange clip and remove the door button. There is a trim retaining screw behind this button that must be removed.
# Remove the screw behind the interior door release handle, and unhook the handle escutcheon from the trim panel. You should now see two screws securing the handle bracket and door trim to the door shell. Remove these.
#Carefully remove the inlay cloth/leather trim from the elbow recess, and remove another two screws at the rear of the door handle.
#Carefully pull off the carpet inlay at the bottom of the door to reveal 7 plastic 'scrivets' as Lotus call them! You will need to stick the carpet back with a suitable adhesive later.
#Remove the three screws in the dash recess at the front of the door trim, and last but by means least, the screw behind the door weatherstrip. This can be tricky to find as its behind the top rear end (door button side) of the weatherstrip which is bonded to the door. The door trim can now be removed.
#Refitting, as they always say, is the reverse of the above! Take care when refitting to make sure the door button lock rod passes through its aperture, and that it’s in its fully up position when refitting the infamous orange retaining clip.

 

=== External Links ===
* [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9391 Original LEC thread]

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:Components]]

Talk:Orange clip

2008-05-11T13:23:25Z

Foo: New page: No idea what this is. Searched the forum and still no info. If it's infamous then I'm out of the loop :) --~~~~

No idea what this is. Searched the forum and still no info. If it's infamous then I'm out of the loop :)

--[[User:Foo|Foo]] 14:23, 11 May 2008 (BST)

Orange clip

2008-05-11T13:22:54Z

Foo: Stub

{{stub}}
[[Image:Orange_Clip.jpg]]

Steering Rack Removal

2008-05-11T13:17:48Z

Foo: Reworked layout

__TOC__

You've decided to remove the steering rack? Well firstly I'd have to ask why as it is a fairly major undertaking for the home mechanic not owing to the complexity, but owing to the access without a 4-post lift. But if it has to come off, then so be it:

== Removal Instructions ==

{{warning|text=You must support the car with safety-certified axle stands when working underneath}}

Park the car on a flat paved surface and prepare to get it as high as you can at the front. I achieved this by driving it up ramps at the back, then jacking the front.

You will be removing the cross member, hence access will be required to the bolts and the normal raft supporting points become mobile once the cross member is removed. The best way is to jack from the raft lifting point, then support with the normal body lifting points. It needs to be secure as it is likely that many of the bolts will be very tight.

=== Remove Cross Member ===

[[Image:crossmem.jpg|thumb|right|Cross Member]]

This is covered in the starter motor section of the electrical manual. The item you are removing is pictured to the right.

Once I had removed the crossmember I removed the exhaust as it was being replaced anyway. I'm uncertain as to whether it is necessary but it certainly improves the access.

 

=== Disconnect Steering Column ===

Dive head first into the driver's footwell and first remove the two bolts securing the plate at the base of the sterring column to the bulkhead. Then undo the pinch bolt on the UJ at the base of the steering column. At this point the manual suggests that you undo the lower UJ from inside the car. I found this impossible so I didn't.

=== Disconnect Track Rod Ends ===

Having removed the roadwheels, split the track rod end ball joints. If you have trouble undoing the nut because the taper is rotating, don't fret; rejoice as this means the joint will split easily. Simply squeeze it together with a g-clamp and the friction will be sufficient to undo the nut. Once the nuts are off, tap the end of the taper with a rubber hammer or use a ball joint splitter.

=== Accessing Hydraulic Pipes ===

The hydraulic pipes from the pump/reservoir attach to the rack in a very awkward spot. To access the unions (which will probably be seized), you need to lower the right-hand suspension raft. This sounds like a nightmare, but actually isn't too bad:

# Undo anti-roll bar ball joint and separate.
# Remove bolt securing the ARB ball joint and suspension strut to the lower wishbone.
# Undo the three nuts securing the suspension strut-top to the chassis, accessed under the grommets in the engine bay.
# Undo the four clamping bolts holding the shock absorber to the two halves of the yoke that connects it to the wishbone.
# You should now be able to carefully remove the shock absorber/spring as a complete unit by wiggling it downwards. At some point in here you will probably have to remove the wheel arch liner. Mine was already out, so I don't know what access it affects.
# Securely wire the upper wishbones to some part of the chassis above. Use wire that is shorter than the brake hose, but allows the suspension assembly to move around.
# Undo the bolt connecting the tubular steadying arm to the chassis attachment point.
# Undo the bolt that secures the suspension raft to the chassis at the top. It is the one that clamps through two large plates.
# Lower raft gently downwards allowing the weight to settle on the wires you fitted in step (f).
# Ensure the brake hose is unaffected.

=== Removing Hydraulic Pipes ===

You should now be able to see the various hydraulic lines connecting to the rack. You need to remove the two larger diameter pipes that route upwards rather than the smaller ones that disappear along the rack body. Clean the area around the unions with a wire brush, compressed air, gunk etc until you can get some WD-40 or similar into the union threads. I couldn't find a metric spanner to fit either union, so I ended up using an adjustable which wasn't ideal as the size of the jaws limited the amount I could turn the union on each flat. I'm guessing they are imperial as the cross-reference for the part is Land Rover! Pre-position a drip-tray of some description to catch the PAS fluid, then start with the lower union and remove them both. The flex in the hoses higher up is sufficient to pull them clear of the rack body with some effort.

=== Rack Removal ===

[[Image:rackaccess.jpg|thumb|right|You will now have great access to the rack area]]

Undo the extremely tight rack-chassis mounting bolts. The bolt at the gearbox side gets trapped against the gearbox when fully undone so don't use a ring spanner on it or you won't get it back until the rack drops clear. From the driver's side, lower the pinion out of the aperture that leads to the steering column and slide clear. I found it easier to work from the driver's side and lower, then pull towards me. This could be done in a single garage, withdrawing the rack to the driver's side. I found that the gearbox end bolt fell clear from the trapped position at this stage.

 

{{note|text=The access now available underneath is unsurpassed without engine removal. Use this opportunity to recondition the starter, waxoyl the chassis, change the oil etc etc etc. You will never again be able to get in as easily as this!}}

== Refitting Instructions ==

[[Image:nicerack.jpg|thumb|right|Rack fitted]]

Refitting is the reverse of removal however note the following:
# Install the intermediate shaft onto the new rack to avoid having to do it through the driver's footwell. There is a specific orientation for the shaft to aid steering feel which is detailed in the manual. If the lower UJ is at all stiff or has play, then replace it. It is the same as many Land Rovers and cross referenced here: [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7200&highlight=]
# You may wish to shorten one of the rack-chassis bolts very slightly to allow it to be refitted next to the gearbox. Otherwise it is almost impossible to reinstall it.
# Thoroughly clean the PAS hydraulic pipes and leave the blanks in place until the last minute to avoid dirt ingress.
# Use threadlock on all bolts and tighten to the correct torque: 120nm for the rack-chassis bolts.
# Refitting the raft is easiest with either an assistant or a hydraulic jack to carefully lift it into position. Then refit the bolt with threadlock and tighten to xxx nm.

 

[[Category:HowTo]]

Engine oil

2008-05-11T12:10:29Z

Foo: Layout and links

__TOC__

The original Lotus Service notes recommend 3.5 litres including filter change of either:
* 10W/30 SF or SG
* 15W/40 SF or SG
* Mobil One 5W/50 SG

For a new car the oil choice is straightforwards - Just follow the manufacturer’s recommendation. Unfortunately the Lotus advice is 17 years old, and oil technology has moved on.

== What the numbers mean (10W/40 etc) ==

The numbers show the relationship between modern [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil#Multi-grade multi grade] oils and the SAE single grades.

While your lawnmower engine, being small, slow running, and used mainly when it’s warm, will run happily on SAE 30, a car engine needs something thin enough to pump instantly to the camshaft when cold, but thick enough to maintain the pressure when hot.

10W 40 means its starts from cold with the same flowing characteristics as a SAE 10 single grade oil, but rather than thinning as the temperature rises as an SAE 10 would, it thins no more than a SAE 40. Similarly a 5W 50 starts off as a 5 when the ambient temperature is -18°C and doesn’t thin anymore than a SAE 50 by the time the oil is boiling.

You might wonder why you would ever need a 0W, it’s the same as a 5W with an extra bit of something that keeps it pourable under even worse conditions.

We used to consider Duckham’s 20W 50 as being a thick oil and now we have fully synthetic 10W 60 being recommended. Fortunately the synthetic oils flow better generally, so the comparison is not exact.

In the middle of the UK 10W-40 would be a good choice. 5W-30 would be more appropriate for Norway and 15W-50 for North Africa. Then there are track days...

== Vendor Advice ==

=== Castrol ===

Changing the oil every 6 months Magnatec 10W-40 SS would do a good job. Doing any track days, EDGE 10W-60 FS would offer better performance and protection.

For the extra cost they recommend EDGE 10W-60 FS anyway, but do the oil change once a year for low mileage cars, as it will easily do the mileage.

They also recommend EDGE Turbo Diesel 5W-40 and EDGE 5W-30

On reading some of the posts in early February 2008 Castrol added:

It seems that everyone uses different oil and each are happy so in theory you can use what you like!! Lots of oils will work - but the question is, which one works the best? At the end of the day, everyone will have their favourite, and everyone will have an opinion, but as long as everyone feels they are using what's best for them - great.

Regarding the "don't use a xW-60, but an xW- 50 is ok" - the difference between a 50 and a 60 at 100 degrees is 2.5 centistokes ( i.e. not much ) whereas an xW-40W is around 13 centistokes so quite a bit thinner !

The Formula RS has been replaced by the EDGE Sport 10W-60 which is Castrol's ultimate high performance oil for high powered and tuned engines - We also produce EDGE 10W-60 which is a retail version of TWS Motorsport , a specific BMW formulation for their "M" series engines ( the only oil BMW recommend for the M series for ultimate performance and protection )

Looking at my specifications lists Lotus are now recommending as an initial viscosity, a 10W-60 for Élan Se and S2 (89 – 95) with a note “MINIMUM high temperature viscosity of 50 to 60”

For temperate climates – the note says 10W-30 to 5W-50

Castrol offer a 10W-60 because of our extensive knowledge and experience with high performance engines (take the BMW F1 team cars we lubricate as an example) and we feel that this product offers the best high performance option, based on protection rather than just efficiency.

We also recommend this oil for TVR, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati etc – We haven't had any issues at all with its use that I am aware of.

=== ESM ===

Fully synthetic oils are the best by some distance. Friction losses in engines drops by around 4% with a synthetic oil - this gives more power and more economy. They also are the most effective at limiting wear - which is why many engines are best run in with a non-synthetic.

Some older engines (I mean older, I don't mean late 80s) need a more viscous oil because the bearing clearances are larger. Chris Foulds doesn't like synthetics too much largely because of this.

Different oils swell/shrink seals differently. So if you have a borderline seal. One oil may be worse than another for loss through that seal. Which oil minimises your loss may vary depending on which seal causes the leak because all seals aren't all of the same composition. Oil formulation is scarily basic when it comes to seal compatibility; they are formulated with a mixture of elements known to cause either seal shrinkage or swell which are balanced to break even(ish). So worse oil loss isn't necessarily a synthetic vs semi or non-synthetic oil issue more a formulation to formulation issue (if Mobil 1 gives you issues another synthetic 0W40 oil might be better).

Synthetic oils can achieve low cold viscosities. So HVLs will pressurise faster with them, although any drips from leaky seals will be worse for the same reason. I'd certainly go 0W for choice. I prefer a W40 because it will give greater engine protection than a W30 (as a result of its higher viscosity) and the last approval Lotus issued was for a 0W40 not a 0W30. That's not to say a W30 won't be ok and it will incur less in the way of viscous losses but I'd say the Elan's engine is from the W40 oil technology era and so I stick with that because clearances etc are likely to have been designed with that level of viscosity in mind.

Engines run with synthetic oils are cleaner, if you put synthetic oil in an engine previously run on non-synthetic you can dislodge a lot of gunge so run a short first oil/filter change interval if you switch.

=== Amsoil ===

To use any 60 grade oil in these engines is crazy. This is the thickest grade of engine oil there is. Whilst we sell a 60 grade its confined to pre war Harley Davidsons and nitro drag cars whose superchargers force the fuel past the rings (if they have them) and into the oil therby diluting it; so they start thick to end up with something that will let the engine survive.

If you are tracking your car and the temperatures are so high that the use of a 60 grade oil means that its effectively a 30 or 40 at these temperatures then please ask yourselves about the efficiency of the rad or oil coolers (if fitted) Bottom line is get the temperatures down and use the correct grade. The engine oil is meant to be an indespensible part of the engines system rather than being used as a prop. The problem with thick oil is that it causes more friction / pumping losses which in itself creats extra heat , robs power and efficiency and can actually lead to oil starvation when an oil pump cavitates.

Edge is a good product but please stick to what the manufactures originally specified. The improvements in oil which mainly refer to the appearance of full synthetics, have resulted in very much stonger and longerlasting products. Amsoils products are at least 3-5 times the film strength of mineral oils and this strength allows the use of thinner oils to advantage.
Not too sure how a synthetic oil can be thinner than a mineral oil? If it where it would just be graded differently so that it would be the same , if that makes sense.

Be a bit careful with oils that have a gap between the 2 numbers of 40 or even more. (ie 0w-40 5w-50 etc) These are generally 'weak' oils that have additives (VI's) viscocity improvers to stretch the difference between cold and hot thickness. The VI's resist the thinning effects of heat so the 5w-50 is actually a 5 grade oil that with the added VI's doesnt thin down like it should and when new can maintain a 50 grade hot. The VI's are long molecule chains and as such are litterally chopped up and broken by the piston rings and engine heat. They then cannot stop the natural thinning, and the oil that you thought was thick is now no longer. You are better off with a quality 20w-50 unless you wish to change the oil often.

== Vendor Advice for High-Mileage Engines ==

=== Castrol ===

If the engine was very dirty, and had not had regular oil changes, and the engine has a bit of wear - then it is possible where there could be some carbon deposits built up around the valve guide seals and piston rings where this carbon is actually providing a final seal - if an engine oil with good detergent properties is used, then over time it can clean away the deposits and you could get some extra usage - but you wouldn't see this straight away.
A more likely scenario could be that the oil is oxidised so it is thicker - when you change the oil, the new oil will be thinner and would also show up any wear - especially is it a synthetic which tend to be thinner than the equivalent mineral oils.
If in doubt then a semi synthetic would probably be better bet - detergents in oil don't necessarily "clean" the engine, but stop dirt sticking to it, and hold it in the oil so when it's changed the dirt is flushed away.

From this you could assume for high mileage engines that have always been running on semi synthetic oil it may be best to stick with it.

== What LEC members are using… ==

* Gareth: Changed from 10W/30 to 10W/40
* Paul: Duckhams 10W/40 to Castrol Edge Sport 0W/40 found a slight leak, going back to 10W-40
* Muley, Jim: I’ve Been using Mobil 0W/40 but switched to the Castrol Edge 0W/40 as the car had nearly 70,000 miles. Now Mobil 5W/40
* Paul P: Castrol RS 0W/60 FS 110,000miles
* Simon P: Put 0W FS in - Made the valve lifters noisy so switched back to 10W its quiet again (10W?)
* Kmckmc: Shell 5W/40 - Castrol FORMULA RS 10W/50 - Mobile One 5W/50 - Selenia 10W/60 - Shell Ultra Helix 5W/40 - Fuchs Titan Super Syn 5W/50
* Elanlover: From "unknown" to Amsoil synthetic Euro spec 5W/40 - engine and tappets much quieter
* ScottJ: Halfords 5W/40 FS since purchase at 115,000 till now at 142,000.
* L.G: Shell 5W/40 FS to Mobil 15W/50 MS(mineral) back to Shell 5W/40 FS because oil pressure light stayed on for a split second after starting the engine. Now back to normal.
* Josler: Mobil One 0W/40. Turbo. Complained of noise. Changed to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 SS
* Johnny: 15W/50 FS (Make?)
* LGM: Valvoline VR1 Racing 10W/30 FS Used Mobile 0W/40 FS with good results. Tried Castrol 5W/30 FS but found lifters were clattering for awhile.
* The Bard: Mobil 5W/30 FS
* Ekapol: From SS Castrol 5W/30 to FS Mobil One 10W/30 engine is much quieter.
* Enright: Mobil One 0W/40 FS
* Oliver: Elf LDX 5W/40 The HVL's seem quieter than they used to with Mobil One 0w-40. Doesn't appear to burn any either (87k miles).
* Rambo: Shell Helix Ultra 5W/40
* Ultimatt: Reverting back to Mobil One 0W/40 FS
* markVasey: From Mobil 15W/50 to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 - N/A (still burning oil)
* Rip: Edge Sport 10W-60 1990 SE Turbo 74000 miles
* RayD: Valvoline Syn Power 5W/50 FS, to Valvoline VR1 Racing 5W/50 FS 40,000 miles, SE Turbo
* Dico: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 FS 44,000 miles, Turbo Purchase car 4 years ago at 30,000 miles. Changed oil and filter every 3000 miles.
* Sy: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 70,000 - 110,000 miles, SE Turbo
Changed engine about 3,000 miles ago because old engine was burning oil regardless of type.
* Clemo: Redline Racing oil. 5W/30 FS
Full engine rebuild 6000 miles ago. NA now reading 116000. changing oil and filter every spring . Covering about 900 miles a year. Using Redline MTL gearbox oil.
* Martin R: Silkolene 10w/50
* Specky: Mobil Super S 10W/40( .....Edit.... very noisy lifters..Looking for an Alternative)
* Steve A: Mobil One 0W/40 52,000 miles
* Dermotbell: Castrol Edge 10W/60
* Monty: Mainly used Mobil 0w/40 and Ocasionly Halfords 5w/40 but Pinky is using a wee bit of oil. So Just done a service with Comma Motorsports full synthetic 5w/50 and K & N oil filter.
* Paza1: Unknown oil with Lotus filter, Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic with Lotus filter, then Mobil 1 0w/40 with Lotus filter. Update, lifters too noisey, back to Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic.

=== See Also ===

* [[Oil_filter|Oil Filter]]
* [[Oil_change|Oil Change]]

=== External Links ===

* [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11127&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Forum Discussion on Engine Oil]

[[Category:Maintenance]]

Fuel Filter

2008-05-11T11:56:38Z

Foo: Category:HowTo

Oil filter

2008-05-11T11:56:04Z

Foo: Category:Maintenance

An interesting bit of [http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html background reading] (to be taken at face value) before rushing out and buying the cheapest filter! Apparently, the filter is common to all 4 cylinder Hondas from 1985 - 2007 (not confirmed) so sourcing one shouldn't be a problem. Some reported equivalents are as follows:

== UK sourced ==

Champion F110

www.Japspareparts.co.uk (duff link) ADS72101

[http://www.knfilterchargers.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=HP-1004 K&N] HP-1004

PURFLUX LS489A = 86 71 002 038 available from Renault dealers. (Quality AND cheap!)

Fram PH6811

Mahle OC-230

== French sourced ==

Purflux LS 489 A

== US sourced ==

Mobil (Mobil 1) M1-104

== Oz sourced ==

Purolator PureOne PL14459

AC PF1127

Motorcraft FL-810

Castrol MaxPro Plus CMP3593A

QuakerState QS3593B

WIX 51334ST

MANN (german company): part # W811/80

[[Category:Components]]
[[Category:Maintenance]]

M100 Editions

2008-05-11T11:55:15Z

Foo: Concept cars Link

The M100 went through 2 major editions and a number of variants during production.

= Basic Differences =

== Series 1: Elan M100 SE ==

* Produced between 1989 and 1992
* 15" Wheels
* Around 4500 assembled
* Turbocharged

=== Naturally-Aspirated variant ===
There was a a small number (129) of Series 1 cars that were NA (did not have a turbocharger). These were sold exclusively in the UK.

=== US variant ===
There was a seperate US variant of the Series 1. It was different in the following ways:
* 16" Wheels
* 'Stage 2' body with alterations to the rear spoiler and front-end shape

== Series 2: Elan M100 S2 ==

* Produced between 1994 and 1995
* Slightly reduced power compared to Series 1
* 800 assembled

= Series 2 Info =

When Bugatti came across a warehouse full of Isuzu engines it decided to make a further limited production run of Elans. This model became known as the 'Series 2' and had a number of changes. Larger, more fashionable 7" X 16" wheels were fitted in place of the European 6.5" X 15"s, together with minor changes to dampers and suspension components to accommodate the heavier wheels. Lotus engineer John Miles gave CAR Magazine the impression he was 'somewhat pained by this concession to style.' Stiffer bushings were used in the rafts to give a firmer ride and the power steering was re-valved to give improved feel. The British motoring press particularly welcomed this. A catalytic converter was also fitted in a new Bosal exhaust system which slightly reduced the engine torque, and output power by 10 BHP. The rear suspension top link was also re-designed to reduce cost.

CAR Magazine on driving the S2 said "The Elan has never been about pure muscle; it's about balance, precision and sheer dynamic ability and the S2 has these qualities in abundance. Truth to tell, I can hardly detect the changes in the Elan's suspension, except for the fact the car's ride is now harsher at low speeds. So awesome was the original car's cornering ability that exploring the chassis' limit was almost impossible. That hasn't changed." Numerous other changes were made to the internal trim including the seats, window controls, centre console and the steering wheel. The soft-top also received some attention to its sealing rubbers in an effort to stem the leaks. S2 Elans are nearly always seen in metallic colours, which certainly look very eye catching when combined with their larger wheels. Unfortunately their performance although still swift suffers with the engine’s power loss and extra kerb weight when compared to the Series 1. 0-100 times for the S2 are some 4 seconds adrift, and all the in-gear incrementals are beaten by its predecessor. The S2 was however a great sales success and gave Lotus a much needed injection of cash.

=== See Also ===
* [[Concept_cars|Elan M100 Concept Car Versions]]

__NOEDITSECTION__
[[Category:UsefulInfo]]

Concept cars

2008-05-11T11:54:41Z

Foo: Gallery & stub

{{stub}}
Under construction.... but here's a few photos to keep you amused...

<gallery>
Image:Concept1.jpg
Image:Concept2.jpg
Image:M200.jpg
</gallery>

=== See Also ===
* [[M100_Editions|Elan M100 Production Versions]]

Parts

2008-05-11T11:54:03Z

Foo: cats

==Where to source parts==

Well it's a Lotus and a dealer will empty your wallet faster than a friday night in Manchester...

If it seems expensive... '''STOP'''... ask someone on [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/index.php Lotus Elan Central] they will put you straight.

==Where to try first==

[http://www.lotussurplusstocksale.co.uk/ Some reduced parts Direct from Lotus]

[http://www.grouplotus.com Lotus site]

[http://www.thelotuscentre.com/start.htm South West Lotus centre].

[http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/ SJ Lotus].

[http://www.paulmattysportscars.co.uk/ Paul Matty].

==Where to try next==

[http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewforum.php?f=3 LEC Member Sales].

[http://www.bell-colvill.co.uk/LotusShop/Directory.asp?Persist=Yes&Category=S11 Bell-Colvill Lotus Dealer].

[http://www.fibreglassservices.co.uk/ Fibreglass Services]. A Supplier to the South West Lotus centre, best contacted by telephone.

==Obsolete parts==

[http://www.fibreglassservices.co.uk/ Fibreglass Services]. They hold the rights to make all Lotus obsolete parts.

[http://wikilec.9600.org/index.php/Cooling_Fans An OEM Cooling Fan].

[http://wikilec.9600.org/index.php/Seatbelt_Assembly A Seatbelt_Assembly].

==Last resort==

[http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/index.php Ask your question here]

[http://search.ebay.co.uk/lotus-elan_W0QQcatrefZC6QQcoactionZcompareQQcoentrypageZsearchQQcopagenumZ1QQflocZ1QQfromZR9QQfromZR9QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQfstypeZ1QQftrtZ1QQftrvZ1QQga10244Z10425QQsacatZQ2d1QQsaslcZ2QQsspagenameZSTRKQ3aMEFSRCHQ3aSRCH Ebay worldwide search]

[http://www.douglasvalley.co.uk A Breaker of Elans] sometimes expensive.

[http://www.infinicar.com/ A Breaker of Elans]

==UK Breaking Now==

[http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/256108.htm Blue S2]

[http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LOTUS-M100-ELAN-TURBO-SE-BREAKING-PARTS-SALVAGE_W0QQitemZ320208292404QQihZ011QQcategoryZ27375QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Red SE]

[http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Lotus-Elan-Turbo-Engine-parts-breaking_W0QQitemZ190178652708QQihZ009QQcategoryZ27375QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem White SE]

[http://autos.blue-sock.com/clients/19/sitem.php?count=0&makemodel=LOTUS&trimlevel=&fueltype=&pics=pics&orderby=MakeModel&value=134468 Red Elan]

[http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1991-lotus-elan-se-turbo-x4-wheel-nuts-spares-parts_W0QQitemZ370028248560QQihZ024QQcategoryZ27375QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Red Elan]

==USA Breaking now==

[http://www.lotusrecycling.com/elan.htm Red Elan]

==Other==

[http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/339778.htm Silver SE]

[[Category:UsefulInfo]]
[[Category:Maintenance]]

Replacing Temp & Fan Switch Bulbs

2008-05-11T11:53:02Z

Foo: Layout and cat

__NOTOC__

== Instructions ==

# Pull off the 3 knobs which control the temperature, fan speed and blower direction
# Remove the oblong fascia panel behind, which clips in place.
# Now the bulbs simply pull out, and the new ones push in.

== Notes ==

[[Image:LEC_bulb.jpg|thumb|right|Recovering a detached bulb holder from behind the panel]]

The panel was originally designed to have the bulbs changed from the back - the bulb holders would simply pop out to give access to the bulb, and snap back in. For this reason there’s a good chance of pushing the holder off its seat while inserting the bulb and losing the whole thing behind the dash. If this has already happened - here’s a way round it - It calls for a bit of keyhole surgery:
* Drill a small hole adjacent to the bulb holder
* Using a piece of piano wire, its quite easy to clip them back in place.
* The same piece of wire will hold them in position while replacing the bulb.

 

== Spare Parts ==

The bulb detail is: Exterior/Interior Bulb 12V 1.2W Model 286
They're available at Halfords for about £1.79

[[Category:HowTo]]

Tyres - approved type and pressures

2008-05-11T11:50:57Z

Foo: Thumbnails & Formatting

{{stub}}

[[Image:Tyres.jpg|thumb|right|Lotus advisory notice for replacement tyres]]

To the right is a copy of Service Bulletin 1996/01, indicating the Lotus approved replacement tyres and recommended pressures for the M100.

For the pressures indicated in the bulletin:
* 1.8 bar = 26 psi
* 2.0 bar = 29 psi
* 2.3 bar = 33 psi

[[Category:Components]]
[[Category:Maintenance]]

Replacing Temp & Fan Switch Bulbs

2008-05-11T11:44:45Z

Foo: Temp & Fan Switch Bulbs moved to Replacing Temp & Fan Switch Bulbs: Descriptive

Temp & Fan Switch Bulbs

2008-05-11T11:44:45Z

Foo: Temp & Fan Switch Bulbs moved to Replacing Temp & Fan Switch Bulbs: Descriptive

#REDIRECT [[Replacing Temp & Fan Switch Bulbs]]

Oil change

2008-05-11T11:43:16Z

Foo: Category:Maintenance

== 1. Release the oil filter ==

The oil filter should be removable by hand. Invariably, it is not and some sort of tool is necessary to assist in its removal. On lesser cars, this is usually not a problem and there are a wide variety of tools to assist. The oil filter on the Elan is cunningly concealed between the engine and the bulkhead, just below the plenum and above a variety of pipes etc.

There have been a multitude of suggestions for the best tool to assist in removing the Elan oil filter, but I (Geoff) rejected all for a [http://www.boa-uk.com/boa_constrictors.html Boa Constrictor]. Although there are strap wrench type oil filter removal tools, there are two advantages to the Boa: Firstly, it is all plastic and secondly, I found one in the kitchen cupboard so apart from a clean in the dishwasher afterwards, it didn't cost me anything.

There have been many suggestions as the the best way in to the filter. I have tried from the top, the bottom and stopped short of taking off the wheel as I was convinced there was a better way. I recommend the best way in is from the side:

# Make sure the engine is cold/cool. Where your arm is going, there is no benefit in having a hot engine unless you've got shares in elastoplast.
# Set the wrench to the same size as the new filter and double back the strap to make sure it doesn't slip; I taped around the handle as well to make sure the strap didn't come out, but this is probably not necessary.
# Stand by the LH wing and rest your left arm on the cam cover.
# Feed your right arm in above the coolant tank and below the plenum until your elbow is at the coolant tank; you should be able to feel the filter to the left.
# Remove your arm, feed the wrench in and fit on top of the oil filter.
# With the wrench on the top of the filter and at a slight upward angle, there is just enough room to apply sufficient force to free even the most stubborn filter.
# Remove wrench and pop in dishwasher.
# Gently release then gently tighten up the filter by hand.
# Take the car for a spin to warm the oil.

== 2. The dirty bit ==
[[Image:ReadyForOil.jpg|thumbnail|gallon tin ready for oil]]
[[Image:GoodShot.jpg|thumbnail|oil flows where it should]]
[[Image:BagOfOilAndFilter.jpg|thumbnail|bags of oil]]
[[Image:WhatNoMess.jpg|thumbnail|admire the lack of mess]]

# Place the new oil filter upright and fill with new oil. Keep topping it up until it is saturated.
# Release the sump plug (22mm) until you can turn it by hand.
# Place your oil collection tool on a newspaper under the sump. Depending on the type of receptical you use, you may have to jack the car up, but the [[Media:ReadyForOil.jpg|gallon tin]] with a slightly concave side and 1" square hole that I've been using for years fits without needing a jack.
# Release the sump plug by hand, ensuring the oil flows [[Media:GoodShot.jpg|where it should]].
# Get a couple of plastic carrier bags one inside the other and place below the oil filter; release the oil filter into the [[Media:BagOfOilAndFilter.jpg|bags]] and carefully withdraw. It '''is''' possible to do it without spilling any oil down the engine, onto the chassis members etc.
# Dispose of the oil filter in a responsible manner and allow the oil to drain.
# Replace the sump plug washer (I got one for "Volvo 240/Saab" from the local accessory shop) and replace the sump plug.Torque too 20lbf.ft.or 27Nm.
# Tip the surplus oil out of the new oil filter into the engine and smear some oil around the seal.
# Clean the mating surfaces and fit the oil filter hand tight. There is a seal on the filter so '''don't''' overtighten it, as you will make it difficult to remove next oil change.
# Fill with oil: Lotus quote 3.5 litres / 6.2 imp. pints and the difference between maximum and minimum marks on the dipstick as 1.1 litres / 1.9 imp. pints.
# Run the engine and check for leaks around the oil filter and sump plug.
# Check the level and top up if necessary.
# Dispose of the used engine oil responsibly.
# Admire the lack of mess !

[[Category:HowTo]]
[[Category:Maintenance]]