https://wikilec.com/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=Elan+SE 2026-08-19T15:42:51Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.23.9 https://wikilec.com/view/File:LOTPROO302_ESPRIT_2.jpg 2011-08-29T09:30:07Z

<p>Elan SE: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Toy_Models 2011-08-29T09:29:16Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Maisto */</p> <hr /> <div>''For information about the different Elan M100's that Lotus produced, see [[M100 Editions]].''<br /> <br /> == Maisto ==<br /> <br /> Maisto manufactured a 1/36 scale die-cast model for both the Elan SE and S2.<br /> <br /> These models were available in several guises, the most common was the Shell Petrol Stations promotion. This was a scheme of collecting points and redeeming them against a model car. In the UK the car was normally blue and packaged in a yellow marked Shell box.<br /> <br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> Image:Lotus 3.jpg|Disributed by Shell uk petrol stations as part of a points collection scheme.<br /> Image:French_model.jpg| Disributed by European Shell petrol stations‎.<br /> Image:Lotus 4.jpg|Distributed by Maisto to toy shops in a silver box.<br /> Image:Lotus 2.jpg|Sold By Lotus cars as a toy.<br /> Image:Lotus 1.jpg|unable to ascertain why to this box, possibly given to Lotus employees.<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> There was a final quirk, Cars given to Lotus employees in shell boxes...<br /> <br /> <br /> IIRC the following colours were avilable from Lotus until 1994:-<br /> <br /> Red, yellow, blue, Green, Black, white<br /> <br /> <br /> Yellow Lotus Elan SE dealer version LOTPR00300<br /> Lotus ******* dealer version LOTPR00301<br /> Red Lotus Espirt dealer version LOTPR00302<br /> Green Lotus Elan ** dealer version LOTPR00303<br /> <br /> Just for information<br /> <br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> Image:LOTPROO302_ESPRIT_1.jpg‎|Lotus Espirt dealer version LOTPR00302.<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> == Scale Model Technical Services ==<br /> <br /> The precision model cars listed in the catalogue from [http://www.smtsmodels.demon.co.uk/ SMTS]are manufactured from white meal with resin, photo-etched and plated parts to form 1:43 scale collectors cars. All are individually hand built and finished in authentic colours and decals. Models are also available in kit form, ready to paint and assemble. 1:24 scale models are listed separately.<br /> <br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> Image:SMTS BLUE.jpg<br /> Image:SMTS_MODEL.jpg<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;‎<br /> <br /> == The Hasbro 1/15 scale model ==<br /> <br /> A rare item indeed. This a direct copy by Hasbro of a 1989 to 1994 Lotus Elan SE M100, which was the car driven by James Bond Jr. in a short lived comic book series and TV show. It is over 11 inches long, six inches wide and 3 inches tall. Just like the James Bond Aston Martin, this little red Lotus has plenty of toys that blend into the car without overtaking the obvious Elan lines. The features include pop-out front guns and a saw blade battering ram, pull out hub cap shredder blades, a spring action ejector seat (the seats match the real car styling), a rear spoiler that flips up to become a bullet proof shield, and the dual exhaust pipes convert to spring fired missles.<br /> <br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> Image:James_Bond_JR.jpg‎<br /> Image:James_bond_jr_car_2.jpg‎<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> == ERTL Model ==<br /> <br /> [[Image:James_Bond_JR_1.jpg|thumb|left|ERTL ‎James Bond Jr Model]]<br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;<br /> <br /> == The Kenner 1/15 scale model ==<br /> <br /> Another rare item. This a direct copy by Kenner a trademark of Tonka Corporation, a subsidiary of Hasbro of a 1989 to 1994 Lotus Elan SE M100 which was the car driven by Jim Carrey's character from the movie The Mask. The toy is very large, I guessed at the 1/15 scale. It is over 12 inches long, six inches wide and 3 inches tall. The car is yellow and the decals are optional. The features include pop-up front jaws, pull out hub cap shredder blades, a spring action ejector seat (the seats match the real car styling), and the dual exhaust pipes convert to spring fired missles.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Mask lotus.jpg|thumb|left]]<br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;<br /> <br /> == Pattos Place ==<br /> <br /> Pattos Place is a one-man operation located in Sydney, Australia, manufacturing slot and model cars to various scales.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Body13290elanm100.jpg|thumb|left|1/32 Lexane Model]]<br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;<br /> <br /> == The LOTUSELANCENTRAL Model ==<br /> <br /> This [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10550&amp;highlight=models/ model] is still in the early planning stages.<br /> <br /> == Similar Models ==<br /> <br /> [[Image:Kia.jpg|thumb|left|The Kia Elan as seen on Ebay]]<br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;<br /> <br /> == Custom Paint Job ==<br /> <br /> By [[User:Ekapol|Ekapol]]<br /> <br /> Bored? Need an Elan fix? You could spent few hours playing with repainting, waxing, detailing, etc. The one I have comes from Shell Sportscar Collection series. <br /> <br /> &lt;gallery Caption=&quot;Custom Paint Job&quot;&gt;<br /> Image:model1.jpg|Here is the &quot;before&quot; shot of my 1st 1/36 Elan (around 3 inches). <br /> Image:model2.jpg|My &quot;after&quot; shot<br /> Image:model3.jpg|&quot;before&quot; w/ Coke can shifter <br /> Image:model4.jpg|&quot;after&quot; With side mirror and NOS switch<br /> Image:model5.jpg|Added yellow interior trim..<br /> Image:model6.jpg|Turn signal lights, and Lotus wheel caps<br /> Image:model7.jpg<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> ==See also==<br /> * [[M100 Editions]]<br /> * [http://www.lotusdriversguide.com/Modelcars/elanM100.php A bit more information]<br /> * [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7734&amp;postdays=0&amp;postorder=asc&amp;start=20 LEC thread link] about Model Elans.</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/File:LOTPROO302_ESPRIT_1.jpg 2011-08-29T09:23:27Z

<p>Elan SE: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Toy_Models 2011-08-29T09:17:53Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Maisto */</p> <hr /> <div>''For information about the different Elan M100's that Lotus produced, see [[M100 Editions]].''<br /> <br /> == Maisto ==<br /> <br /> Maisto manufactured a 1/36 scale die-cast model for both the Elan SE and S2.<br /> <br /> These models were available in several guises, the most common was the Shell Petrol Stations promotion. This was a scheme of collecting points and redeeming them against a model car. In the UK the car was normally blue and packaged in a yellow marked Shell box.<br /> <br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> Image:Lotus 3.jpg|Disributed by Shell uk petrol stations as part of a points collection scheme.<br /> Image:French_model.jpg| Disributed by European Shell petrol stations‎.<br /> Image:Lotus 4.jpg|Distributed by Maisto to toy shops in a silver box.<br /> Image:Lotus 2.jpg|Sold By Lotus cars as a toy.<br /> Image:Lotus 1.jpg|unable to ascertain why to this box, possibly given to Lotus employees.<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> There was a final quirk, Cars given to Lotus employees in shell boxes...<br /> <br /> <br /> IIRC the following colours were avilable from Lotus until 1994:-<br /> <br /> Red, yellow, blue, Green, Black, white<br /> <br /> <br /> Yellow Lotus Elan SE dealer version LOTPR00300<br /> Lotus ******* dealer version LOTPR00301<br /> Red Lotus Espirt dealer version LOTPR00302<br /> Green Lotus Elan ** dealer version LOTPR00303<br /> <br /> == Scale Model Technical Services ==<br /> <br /> The precision model cars listed in the catalogue from [http://www.smtsmodels.demon.co.uk/ SMTS]are manufactured from white meal with resin, photo-etched and plated parts to form 1:43 scale collectors cars. All are individually hand built and finished in authentic colours and decals. Models are also available in kit form, ready to paint and assemble. 1:24 scale models are listed separately.<br /> <br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> Image:SMTS BLUE.jpg<br /> Image:SMTS_MODEL.jpg<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;‎<br /> <br /> == The Hasbro 1/15 scale model ==<br /> <br /> A rare item indeed. This a direct copy by Hasbro of a 1989 to 1994 Lotus Elan SE M100, which was the car driven by James Bond Jr. in a short lived comic book series and TV show. It is over 11 inches long, six inches wide and 3 inches tall. Just like the James Bond Aston Martin, this little red Lotus has plenty of toys that blend into the car without overtaking the obvious Elan lines. The features include pop-out front guns and a saw blade battering ram, pull out hub cap shredder blades, a spring action ejector seat (the seats match the real car styling), a rear spoiler that flips up to become a bullet proof shield, and the dual exhaust pipes convert to spring fired missles.<br /> <br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> Image:James_Bond_JR.jpg‎<br /> Image:James_bond_jr_car_2.jpg‎<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> == ERTL Model ==<br /> <br /> [[Image:James_Bond_JR_1.jpg|thumb|left|ERTL ‎James Bond Jr Model]]<br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;<br /> <br /> == The Kenner 1/15 scale model ==<br /> <br /> Another rare item. This a direct copy by Kenner a trademark of Tonka Corporation, a subsidiary of Hasbro of a 1989 to 1994 Lotus Elan SE M100 which was the car driven by Jim Carrey's character from the movie The Mask. The toy is very large, I guessed at the 1/15 scale. It is over 12 inches long, six inches wide and 3 inches tall. The car is yellow and the decals are optional. The features include pop-up front jaws, pull out hub cap shredder blades, a spring action ejector seat (the seats match the real car styling), and the dual exhaust pipes convert to spring fired missles.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Mask lotus.jpg|thumb|left]]<br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;<br /> <br /> == Pattos Place ==<br /> <br /> Pattos Place is a one-man operation located in Sydney, Australia, manufacturing slot and model cars to various scales.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Body13290elanm100.jpg|thumb|left|1/32 Lexane Model]]<br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;<br /> <br /> == The LOTUSELANCENTRAL Model ==<br /> <br /> This [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10550&amp;highlight=models/ model] is still in the early planning stages.<br /> <br /> == Similar Models ==<br /> <br /> [[Image:Kia.jpg|thumb|left|The Kia Elan as seen on Ebay]]<br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;<br /> <br /> == Custom Paint Job ==<br /> <br /> By [[User:Ekapol|Ekapol]]<br /> <br /> Bored? Need an Elan fix? You could spent few hours playing with repainting, waxing, detailing, etc. The one I have comes from Shell Sportscar Collection series. <br /> <br /> &lt;gallery Caption=&quot;Custom Paint Job&quot;&gt;<br /> Image:model1.jpg|Here is the &quot;before&quot; shot of my 1st 1/36 Elan (around 3 inches). <br /> Image:model2.jpg|My &quot;after&quot; shot<br /> Image:model3.jpg|&quot;before&quot; w/ Coke can shifter <br /> Image:model4.jpg|&quot;after&quot; With side mirror and NOS switch<br /> Image:model5.jpg|Added yellow interior trim..<br /> Image:model6.jpg|Turn signal lights, and Lotus wheel caps<br /> Image:model7.jpg<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> ==See also==<br /> * [[M100 Editions]]<br /> * [http://www.lotusdriversguide.com/Modelcars/elanM100.php A bit more information]<br /> * [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7734&amp;postdays=0&amp;postorder=asc&amp;start=20 LEC thread link] about Model Elans.</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Coolant_Temperature_Sensor_(CTS) 2011-05-24T20:46:08Z

<p>Elan SE: </p> <hr /> <div>[[Image:Coolant_temperature_sensor.gif]]<br /> <br /> Lotus part number A100E6373S is the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) which reports the engine coolant temperature to the [[ECM]]. It consists of a thermistor in a sealed package which screws into the thermostat housing.<br /> <br /> Thermistors are negative temperature coefficient devices and from the Lotus parts manual EMK.4, the Elan has the following characteristics:<br /> <br /> '''Temp(°C) / Resistance(ohms)'''<br /> <br /> '''100 / 185'''<br /> <br /> '''70 / 450'''<br /> <br /> '''38 / 1800'''<br /> <br /> '''20 / 3400'''<br /> <br /> '''4 / 7500'''<br /> <br /> '''-7 / 13500'''<br /> <br /> '''-18 / 25000'''<br /> <br /> '''-40 / 100700'''<br /> <br /> This matches a thermistor with characteristics of R0=2700 ohms and Beta=3977 such as [http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/Passive+Components/Resistors,+Thermistors+&amp;+Potentiometers/VISHAY+BC+COMPONENTS/238164055272/displayProduct.jsp?sku=1187038 this one for £1.42] but you'll need a package (~£50?) to put it in.<br /> <br /> Having discussed this with some Esprit owners, and with reference to their parts manual EMH.4, it turns out they have the same CTS thermistor characteristics {as well as the same [[ECM]]}. Their part number is A910E6928F and is available from [http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/partsandaccessories/srchRes.asp?Car_ID=8&amp;Type1_ID=5&amp;srch=A910E6928F&amp;Submit=search SJ sportscars for ~12GBP] whereas ours is [http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/partsandaccessories/srchRes.asp?Car_ID=9&amp;Type1_ID=5&amp;srch=A100E6373S&amp;Submit=search closer to 50GBP]! This is unhelpful though at the present time (2008) as they are on backorder and Lotus &quot;can't find a replacement&quot;.<br /> <br /> '''UPDATE, May 2011 SJ sports cars have the Esprit CTS in stock, This has now been fited to an Elan with a positive result.'''<br /> <br /> [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5287 ESM did some research] and found data for the [http://www.mindspring.com/~fierosketch/osg/coolant-sensor.html Pontiac Fiero] has the same CTS thermistor characteristics. Cross referencing with a US parts site [http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=290&amp;PTSet=A Parts America] gives several options for the 1988 Fiero CTS. This site is useful in that you can view a part and then see which vehicles it fits. The Fiero CTS is common with the Isuzu Impulse RS and Geo Storm (as suspected but I don't think it has been proven until now) and more importantly for UK owners, a car available in the UK - the Isuzu Trooper (1986-7 with 2.3l engine and 1992-2001 with 3.2l &amp; 3.5l V6 engines) as originally suggested by ESM.<br /> <br /> They have been sourced from Vauxhall for ~15GBP with the ACDelco part number 25036979.<br /> <br /> '''A quick guide to removal and refitting:'''<br /> <br /> 1) Mark position of CAS with felt-tip pen on cam cover.<br /> <br /> 2) Remove CAS by undoing the socket-head bolt and all electrical plugs (there is one underneath). Expect some oil seepage so have a clean rag ready.<br /> <br /> 3) Unplug 2 way connector from CTS. NB the temp gauge sender is the one right next to the engine block at the front and the fan switch is the one furthest away on the thermostat housing with a white plug.<br /> <br /> 4) Unscrew.<br /> <br /> 5) Watch about 2 litres of coolant widdle out over the floor.<br /> <br /> 6) Screw in new CTS.<br /> <br /> 7) Plug in.<br /> <br /> 8) Reinstall CAS, lining up your felt-tip mark.<br /> <br /> 9) Plug in all wires.<br /> <br /> 10) Check you haven't left any tools around the place, then test. It would be worthwhile having Elanscan running at this stage to verify you have a good CTS reading.<br /> <br /> If you are a real die-hard perfectionist, you should now check the engine base timing as you will have disturbed it. It isn't a bad thing to do regularly anyway. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:Fan_Switch.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Category:Components]]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Light_motors 2011-01-23T15:46:58Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Spares */</p> <hr /> <div>=== Symptoms ===<br /> <br /> When attempting to turn-on, there’s a lot of whining, then you don’t always manage to get it up, at least not all the way, conversely, after it’s been up and shining then it’s turned-off, it goes down with a bang and the whining continues after it’s tucked back in it’s resting place. Sounds familiar ? ...<br /> <br /> An intermittent head light motor<br /> <br /> http://s615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/Elan_SE/?action=view&amp;current=100_1236.mp4<br /> <br /> === Spares ===<br /> <br /> Where to get the spares to repair your broken motors http://www.rodneydickman.com/<br /> <br /> Update, SJ Lotus now do a similar kit<br /> <br /> SJ082M0033 OVERHAUL KIT for HEADLAMP MOTORS, Includes drive rollers, gaskets, screws and instructions. Sufficient for a pair of motors.<br /> <br /> SJ082M0034 Plastic drive gear as opposed to an upgraded rodneydickman metal vareient.<br /> <br /> What you will get in a new rodneydickman kit...<br /> <br /> [[Image:Light Motors 1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:Full_light_motor.jpg‎ ]]<br /> <br /> After removing the the Headlamp Motor from the car, it is pretty simple to remove the three screws ‘A’ (English size I recall) holding the Gear Drive Cover to access the Plastic Driven Gear which was the root of my Headlamps impotence. To remove this Gear, I found that it was necessary to raise the Motor Housing by taking the two retaining screws 'B' out and lifting the Motor about ¼ inch, at which point the Motor’s two spring-loaded Carbon Brushes step off the Commutator and come to rest on a smaller diameter section of the Motor Shaft, but at least you can now remove the Plastic Gear and begin the repair.<br /> <br /> '''WARNING: If you remove the motor completely, make sure it is replaced in the same orientation otherwise you will end up with winking or inverse headlights - the pod will be raised when the headlight is off and will descend when the headlight is on!'''<br /> <br /> [[Image:Light_gear.gif‎]]<br /> <br /> The Gear is primarily comprised of three parts, the Plastic section carries the Gear Teeth and forms part of the Hub. The second part is a Die-cast assembly with an integral Shaft, and the third part is the substance that fills the space between the Die-cast ‘Clover Leaf’ and the correspondingly shaped but larger cavity inside the Plastic Hub.<br /> <br /> Inside mine I found a granular filling not unlike Cane Sugar Crystals, both in color and form. I’m guessing that the original condition of this material was rubber-like, giving the drive mechanism some flexibility (Otherwise there would be no reason for the huge clearance between the two parts ?).<br /> <br /> After thoroughly cleaning and de-greasing each part, I chose to use an RTV Silicone Adhesive to fill the Hub prior to re-assembling with the Shaft.<br /> <br /> Once the adhesive has cured you can test your patience by attempting to get the Motor Housing to mate to the main Gear Housing. The tricky part here is holding the Carbon Brushes against their springs as you lower the Motor Shaft. In order to hold the Brush’s apart through an ever decreasing gap, you will need to use something that can hook the Brush connection wires, yet be no thicker than 1/8 inch. I used half of two Cotter Pins, but I should think that a Paper Clip or similar could be modified to achieve the same end. <br /> <br /> Apart from the Carbon Brushes, the repair is very simple, and it could just save you the $170 cost for a new part.<br /> <br /> === Headlamp Motor Fix ===<br /> <br /> (part 2)<br /> <br /> First, identify which side is having trouble. They utilize the same repair kit, but the left side requires a bit more work (this has to do w/ the brush installation on the armature - I'll explain this later).<br /> <br /> The part is in kit form -- &quot;for repairing Ford/Chrysler power windows.&quot; I found them locally for $14.95/Kit. <br /> Good Luck! <br /> <br /> [[Image:TorquePinKit.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Just read this very slowly and carefully.<br /> It will make sense if you think about it....<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> LEFT SIDE:<br /> 1. Jack up vehicle / Remove wheel / Remove plastic inner <br /> fender. The inner fender is held by (3-4) 10mm bolts<br /> in the arch of the well and (3) Phillips #2 screws on<br /> the underside. The inner fender can now be pulled out.<br /> <br /> 2. Open hood / Remove (2) 10mm bolts behind the<br /> headlight housing. Be sure to count the shims/washers<br /> under each bolt because they will fall out. Doing<br /> this will make adjustments a lot easier!<br /> <br /> 3. Remove 10mm bolt retaining connecting rod at the<br /> light motor. (see pic below - &quot;Removal Top View&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:RemovalTopView.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 4. Remove (2) 8mm bolts anchoring the motor unit from<br /> inner fender. (see pic at right - &quot;Motor Removal&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:MotorRemoval.jpg]] <br /> <br /> 5. The motor is now free to be removed from the vehicle.<br /> <br /> 6. The motor should be disassembled on a towel - to<br /> catch small pieces (small springs/bolts).<br /> <br /> 7. Remove the large bracket from the unit 8mm nut and<br /> bolt. Remove the 10mm bolt on the drive arm. The arm<br /> can be removed by clamping in a vise and taping the<br /> center bolt with a small hammer.<br /> <br /> 8. Remove the (3) 1/4&quot; bolts on the other side. Upon <br /> removal of this cover - it'll reveal the mysterious<br /> granules. Remove the (2) 1/4&quot; bolts retaining the<br /> housing for the Armature (Don't lose the (2) springs<br /> behind the brushes!!!) Upon removal of the Armature<br /> shaft -- the white plastic sprocket is free to be<br /> removed from the housing.<br /> <br /> 9. Clean the parts with compressed air, insert the new<br /> torque pins and re-lube the sprocket with grease. Insert<br /> the sprocket back into the housing. (see pic below - &quot;Torque Pins&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:TorquePins.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 10. Here's the tricky (hard) part. Get a strand of wire <br /> - can be found in a stripped length of speaker wire<br /> (see pic - &quot;Torque Pins&quot;). Holding the motor housing in<br /> one hand / Insert the (2) springs in the slots near the<br /> brushes. (see pic at below - &quot;Brushes&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:Brushes.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 11. With the strand of wire / Make a loop around the<br /> brush and insert the brush into the slot (see pic - &quot;Brushes&quot;)<br /> Do the same with the other side.<br /> <br /> 12. While pulling the brush back w/ the loop of<br /> wire/Slide Armature into the housing/When fully<br /> inserted, remove wire by pulling on one side of the<br /> loop/Do this on the other side/Attach (2) 1/4&quot; bolts.<br /> <br /> 13. Position sprocket cover and install (3) 1/4&quot;<br /> bolts/Attach large bracket to motor housing.<br /> <br /> 14. Place motor back into vehicle and install all<br /> bolts removed (just reverse the removal procedure).<br /> <br /> [[Category:HowTo]]<br /> [[Category:Components]]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Light_motors 2011-01-23T15:46:24Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Spares */</p> <hr /> <div>=== Symptoms ===<br /> <br /> When attempting to turn-on, there’s a lot of whining, then you don’t always manage to get it up, at least not all the way, conversely, after it’s been up and shining then it’s turned-off, it goes down with a bang and the whining continues after it’s tucked back in it’s resting place. Sounds familiar ? ...<br /> <br /> An intermittent head light motor<br /> <br /> http://s615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/Elan_SE/?action=view&amp;current=100_1236.mp4<br /> <br /> === Spares ===<br /> <br /> Where to get the spares to repair your broken motors http://www.rodneydickman.com/<br /> <br /> Update, SJ Lotus now do a similar kit<br /> <br /> SJ082M0033 OVERHAUL KIT for HEADLAMP MOTORS, Includes drive rollers, gaskets, screws and instructions. Sufficient for a pair of motors.<br /> SJ082M0034 Plastic drive gear as opposed to an upgraded rodneydickman metal vareient.<br /> <br /> What you will get in a new rodneydickman kit...<br /> <br /> [[Image:Light Motors 1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:Full_light_motor.jpg‎ ]]<br /> <br /> After removing the the Headlamp Motor from the car, it is pretty simple to remove the three screws ‘A’ (English size I recall) holding the Gear Drive Cover to access the Plastic Driven Gear which was the root of my Headlamps impotence. To remove this Gear, I found that it was necessary to raise the Motor Housing by taking the two retaining screws 'B' out and lifting the Motor about ¼ inch, at which point the Motor’s two spring-loaded Carbon Brushes step off the Commutator and come to rest on a smaller diameter section of the Motor Shaft, but at least you can now remove the Plastic Gear and begin the repair.<br /> <br /> '''WARNING: If you remove the motor completely, make sure it is replaced in the same orientation otherwise you will end up with winking or inverse headlights - the pod will be raised when the headlight is off and will descend when the headlight is on!'''<br /> <br /> [[Image:Light_gear.gif‎]]<br /> <br /> The Gear is primarily comprised of three parts, the Plastic section carries the Gear Teeth and forms part of the Hub. The second part is a Die-cast assembly with an integral Shaft, and the third part is the substance that fills the space between the Die-cast ‘Clover Leaf’ and the correspondingly shaped but larger cavity inside the Plastic Hub.<br /> <br /> Inside mine I found a granular filling not unlike Cane Sugar Crystals, both in color and form. I’m guessing that the original condition of this material was rubber-like, giving the drive mechanism some flexibility (Otherwise there would be no reason for the huge clearance between the two parts ?).<br /> <br /> After thoroughly cleaning and de-greasing each part, I chose to use an RTV Silicone Adhesive to fill the Hub prior to re-assembling with the Shaft.<br /> <br /> Once the adhesive has cured you can test your patience by attempting to get the Motor Housing to mate to the main Gear Housing. The tricky part here is holding the Carbon Brushes against their springs as you lower the Motor Shaft. In order to hold the Brush’s apart through an ever decreasing gap, you will need to use something that can hook the Brush connection wires, yet be no thicker than 1/8 inch. I used half of two Cotter Pins, but I should think that a Paper Clip or similar could be modified to achieve the same end. <br /> <br /> Apart from the Carbon Brushes, the repair is very simple, and it could just save you the $170 cost for a new part.<br /> <br /> === Headlamp Motor Fix ===<br /> <br /> (part 2)<br /> <br /> First, identify which side is having trouble. They utilize the same repair kit, but the left side requires a bit more work (this has to do w/ the brush installation on the armature - I'll explain this later).<br /> <br /> The part is in kit form -- &quot;for repairing Ford/Chrysler power windows.&quot; I found them locally for $14.95/Kit. <br /> Good Luck! <br /> <br /> [[Image:TorquePinKit.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Just read this very slowly and carefully.<br /> It will make sense if you think about it....<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> LEFT SIDE:<br /> 1. Jack up vehicle / Remove wheel / Remove plastic inner <br /> fender. The inner fender is held by (3-4) 10mm bolts<br /> in the arch of the well and (3) Phillips #2 screws on<br /> the underside. The inner fender can now be pulled out.<br /> <br /> 2. Open hood / Remove (2) 10mm bolts behind the<br /> headlight housing. Be sure to count the shims/washers<br /> under each bolt because they will fall out. Doing<br /> this will make adjustments a lot easier!<br /> <br /> 3. Remove 10mm bolt retaining connecting rod at the<br /> light motor. (see pic below - &quot;Removal Top View&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:RemovalTopView.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 4. Remove (2) 8mm bolts anchoring the motor unit from<br /> inner fender. (see pic at right - &quot;Motor Removal&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:MotorRemoval.jpg]] <br /> <br /> 5. The motor is now free to be removed from the vehicle.<br /> <br /> 6. The motor should be disassembled on a towel - to<br /> catch small pieces (small springs/bolts).<br /> <br /> 7. Remove the large bracket from the unit 8mm nut and<br /> bolt. Remove the 10mm bolt on the drive arm. The arm<br /> can be removed by clamping in a vise and taping the<br /> center bolt with a small hammer.<br /> <br /> 8. Remove the (3) 1/4&quot; bolts on the other side. Upon <br /> removal of this cover - it'll reveal the mysterious<br /> granules. Remove the (2) 1/4&quot; bolts retaining the<br /> housing for the Armature (Don't lose the (2) springs<br /> behind the brushes!!!) Upon removal of the Armature<br /> shaft -- the white plastic sprocket is free to be<br /> removed from the housing.<br /> <br /> 9. Clean the parts with compressed air, insert the new<br /> torque pins and re-lube the sprocket with grease. Insert<br /> the sprocket back into the housing. (see pic below - &quot;Torque Pins&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:TorquePins.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 10. Here's the tricky (hard) part. Get a strand of wire <br /> - can be found in a stripped length of speaker wire<br /> (see pic - &quot;Torque Pins&quot;). Holding the motor housing in<br /> one hand / Insert the (2) springs in the slots near the<br /> brushes. (see pic at below - &quot;Brushes&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:Brushes.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 11. With the strand of wire / Make a loop around the<br /> brush and insert the brush into the slot (see pic - &quot;Brushes&quot;)<br /> Do the same with the other side.<br /> <br /> 12. While pulling the brush back w/ the loop of<br /> wire/Slide Armature into the housing/When fully<br /> inserted, remove wire by pulling on one side of the<br /> loop/Do this on the other side/Attach (2) 1/4&quot; bolts.<br /> <br /> 13. Position sprocket cover and install (3) 1/4&quot;<br /> bolts/Attach large bracket to motor housing.<br /> <br /> 14. Place motor back into vehicle and install all<br /> bolts removed (just reverse the removal procedure).<br /> <br /> [[Category:HowTo]]<br /> [[Category:Components]]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Fuel_Filter 2011-01-23T14:45:35Z

<p>Elan SE: /* How to remove the filter */</p> <hr /> <div>==Background==<br /> <br /> A fairy common filter which is also in use on the same era Lotus Esprit. A point of note is the filter should be fitted with a seal which is not identified in the Elan manual, but is in the Esprit.<br /> <br /> ==Filter Location==<br /> <br /> The filter is located in a compartment below the hood stowage area. It is situated towards the left hand side of the bay. <br /> <br /> [[Image:Fuel filter.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The filter can be found behind the metalic panel.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Fuel filter 31.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==How to replace the fuel filter==<br /> <br /> {{warning|text='''WARNING - Explosive hazard'''<br /> <br /> Isolate the battery before any work to the fuel system.<br /> <br /> Remember to depressurize the fuel system.<br /> }}<br /> <br /> <br /> * Lift out the carpet inside your hood stowage cover. <br /> * Take the battery inspection cover and wedge it lengthways between the rear edge of the roof and the front edge of the stowage cover. <br /> * That will give you plenty of room to work (and is a really handy tip if you've ever got any other work to do in that area). <br /> * Undo all the screws and remove the plastic tray. ( The screws, sometimes called Scrivets, appear to be made from plastic, but they are in fact made of chocolate. If the screws round off, a wood chisel is the perfect tool for removing the heads).<br /> * Then, from the driver's side, you'll be able to see the inspection hatch. It's an aluminium plate that's mounted vertically on the RHS of the fuel tank. Remove the 4 screws and voila, there's your fuel filter.<br /> <br /> === How to remove the filter===<br /> <br /> * Start the engine and then pull the inertia switch.<br /> * The engine should stall and depressurize the fuel lines.<br /> * Remove the battery.<br /> * Release the filter from its clamp with a 10mm socket on a 1/4&quot; drive ratchet. This gives enough clearance to move the actual filter fore and aft to get at the fittings.<br /> * With a 21mm (adjustable) open end spanner on the filter, and a 16mm on the fitting, loosen off the fittings slightly (beware of pressurised residual fuel - have a rag handy!)<br /> **In theory the outer (threaded) part of the fitting will rotate, with the inner bit staying still - Like on a brake pipe.<br /> ** In reality, the 2 bits may be rusted solid (mine were, anyway) - hence as you unscrew the fitting, the plastic fuel line 'winds up' and squashes itself flat - weakening it and maybe giving it somewhere to split when under pressure<br /> {{note|text=<br /> '''What to do if the fuel line is damaged'''<br /> After a bit of head scratching, you may come to the decision that if you cut the pipe, you can refit the fittings later - if you think that - THINK AGAIN They are a difficult to re-fit - there just isn't enough room to get at it properly. <br /> Okay, here's what you do -<br /> <br /> <br /> Go and buy 60cm of rubber high-pressure injection fuel pipe (8mm bore) from your local motor factors - don't forget a couple of jubilee clips (size 000) Then…<br /> <br /> * Cut the plastic hose about 10mm from the fitting on the INLET side of the filter (rear of the car). <br /> * Catch any fuel which runs out. <br /> * Unscrew the filter from the front (outlet) fitting - leaving that fitting attached to the plastic pipe which runs forward to the engine. <br /> * Remove the filter, with the rear fitting still attached, from the access hole - it will still have quite a bit of petrol in it so be careful. Drain it away carefully, then unscrew the fitting from the filter. <br /> * Carefully cut the plastic pipe off the 8mm tail on the fitting, don't press too hard with the knife - you need to be able to re-seal it later! <br /> <br /> <br /> You now have that sinking feeling when you realise that you can't get it all back together unless your hands are 3 cm wide and double-jointed - with the ability to exert vast amounts of longitudinal pressure on the pipe joint.<br /> <br /> * Remove the 4 screws which hold the cover plate on top of the fuel tank - it is the one with the wires going through it to the sender unit underneath. The screws are actually set screws (bolts) going into rubber scrivets. Pull it to one side, feeding the wire through it as you go to give clearance. <br /> * By waggling the cut end of the plastic fuel line you will see the other end of it on top of the sender unit - carefully cut the plastic pipe on the spigot on top of the tank - it is only plastic, so go careful with Mr. Stanley! <br /> * Pull the pipe out and chuck it away - it's (s)crap. <br /> * Fit the pipe to the fuel tank end and tighten up the jubilee clip - feed the pipe round the top of the tank and down to where the filter lives. <br /> }}<br /> <br /> * Replace the 2 rubber 'o' rings on the fittings (Rover part, not mentioned in the Elan manual, but is in the Esprit manual which uses the same filter and seals.) and screw the inlet fitting (the loose one!) onto the inlet side of the filter - tighten up with the same 2 spanners you took the old one off with. <br /> * Screw the filter onto the outlet fitting - dangling somewhere next to the tank - and tighten up with spanners. Push it forward a bit to get to the rear fitting. <br /> * Push the loose end of your nice new rubber hose onto the fitting - don't forget the jubilee clip. Do it up. <br /> * Wiggle the new filter back into its locating bracket and replace the bolt. <br /> * Replace the battery<br /> * Reset the isolator<br /> * Turn ignition key as to prime the fuel lines, but do not start the engine.<br /> * Check the new filter for leaks<br /> * Start the engine, check for leaks<br /> * Put the bay back together.<br /> <br /> <br /> It might sound a bit strange, but if you do it this way, and have the parts you need at hand - it is literally a 10 minute job! <br /> Remove the fuel filter<br /> <br /> ====Shopping list====<br /> <br /> * Fuel filter - Fram G3727 (Lotus A910E6929F £13.63 ? [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6343 See Here] for alternatives)<br /> * 2 x 'O' rings (Lotus A082L6169F £0.57 ea) - Alternative MG/Rover part # EDP9976<br /> * 60cm 8mm bore Injection fuel hose<br /> * 2 x jubilee clips (size 0000)<br /> <br /> ====Tools required====<br /> <br /> * 21mm open-end spanner (wrench)<br /> * 16mm open-end spanner (wrench)<br /> * Cross-head screwdriver<br /> * 10mm socket on 1/4&quot; drive<br /> * Stanley knife<br /> * 7mm socket for jubilee clips<br /> <br /> [[Category:Components]]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Fuel_Filter 2011-01-23T14:42:55Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Shopping list */</p> <hr /> <div>==Background==<br /> <br /> A fairy common filter which is also in use on the same era Lotus Esprit. A point of note is the filter should be fitted with a seal which is not identified in the Elan manual, but is in the Esprit.<br /> <br /> ==Filter Location==<br /> <br /> The filter is located in a compartment below the hood stowage area. It is situated towards the left hand side of the bay. <br /> <br /> [[Image:Fuel filter.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The filter can be found behind the metalic panel.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Fuel filter 31.jpg]]<br /> <br /> ==How to replace the fuel filter==<br /> <br /> {{warning|text='''WARNING - Explosive hazard'''<br /> <br /> Isolate the battery before any work to the fuel system.<br /> <br /> Remember to depressurize the fuel system.<br /> }}<br /> <br /> <br /> * Lift out the carpet inside your hood stowage cover. <br /> * Take the battery inspection cover and wedge it lengthways between the rear edge of the roof and the front edge of the stowage cover. <br /> * That will give you plenty of room to work (and is a really handy tip if you've ever got any other work to do in that area). <br /> * Undo all the screws and remove the plastic tray. ( The screws, sometimes called Scrivets, appear to be made from plastic, but they are in fact made of chocolate. If the screws round off, a wood chisel is the perfect tool for removing the heads).<br /> * Then, from the driver's side, you'll be able to see the inspection hatch. It's an aluminium plate that's mounted vertically on the RHS of the fuel tank. Remove the 4 screws and voila, there's your fuel filter.<br /> <br /> === How to remove the filter===<br /> <br /> * Start the engine and then pull the inertia switch.<br /> * The engine should stall and depressurize the fuel lines.<br /> * Remove the battery.<br /> * Release the filter from its clamp with a 10mm socket on a 1/4&quot; drive ratchet. This gives enough clearance to move the actual filter fore and aft to get at the fittings.<br /> * With a 21mm (adjustable) open end spanner on the filter, and a 16mm on the fitting, loosen off the fittings slightly (beware of pressurised residual fuel - have a rag handy!)<br /> **In theory the outer (threaded) part of the fitting will rotate, with the inner bit staying still - Like on a brake pipe.<br /> ** In reality, the 2 bits may be rusted solid (mine were, anyway) - hence as you unscrew the fitting, the plastic fuel line 'winds up' and squashes itself flat - weakening it and maybe giving it somewhere to split when under pressure<br /> {{note|text=<br /> '''What to do if the fuel line is damaged'''<br /> After a bit of head scratching, you may come to the decision that if you cut the pipe, you can refit the fittings later - if you think that - THINK AGAIN They are a difficult to re-fit - there just isn't enough room to get at it properly. <br /> Okay, here's what you do -<br /> <br /> <br /> Go and buy 60cm of rubber high-pressure injection fuel pipe (8mm bore) from your local motor factors - don't forget a couple of jubilee clips (size 000) Then…<br /> <br /> * Cut the plastic hose about 10mm from the fitting on the INLET side of the filter (rear of the car). <br /> * Catch any fuel which runs out. <br /> * Unscrew the filter from the front (outlet) fitting - leaving that fitting attached to the plastic pipe which runs forward to the engine. <br /> * Remove the filter, with the rear fitting still attached, from the access hole - it will still have quite a bit of petrol in it so be careful. Drain it away carefully, then unscrew the fitting from the filter. <br /> * Carefully cut the plastic pipe off the 8mm tail on the fitting, don't press too hard with the knife - you need to be able to re-seal it later! <br /> <br /> <br /> You now have that sinking feeling when you realise that you can't get it all back together unless your hands are 3 cm wide and double-jointed - with the ability to exert vast amounts of longitudinal pressure on the pipe joint.<br /> <br /> * Remove the 4 screws which hold the cover plate on top of the fuel tank - it is the one with the wires going through it to the sender unit underneath. The screws are actually set screws (bolts) going into rubber scrivets. Pull it to one side, feeding the wire through it as you go to give clearance. <br /> * By waggling the cut end of the plastic fuel line you will see the other end of it on top of the sender unit - carefully cut the plastic pipe on the spigot on top of the tank - it is only plastic, so go careful with Mr. Stanley! <br /> * Pull the pipe out and chuck it away - it's (s)crap. <br /> * Fit the pipe to the fuel tank end and tighten up the jubilee clip - feed the pipe round the top of the tank and down to where the filter lives. <br /> }}<br /> <br /> * Replace the 2 rubber 'o' rings on the fittings (Rover part, not mentioned in the Elan manual) and screw the inlet fitting (the loose one!) onto the inlet side of the filter - tighten up with the same 2 spanners you took the old one off with. <br /> * Screw the filter onto the outlet fitting - dangling somewhere next to the tank - and tighten up with spanners. Push it forward a bit to get to the rear fitting. <br /> * Push the loose end of your nice new rubber hose onto the fitting - don't forget the jubilee clip. Do it up. <br /> * Wiggle the new filter back into its locating bracket and replace the bolt. <br /> * Replace the battery<br /> * Reset the isolator<br /> * Turn ignition key as to prime the fuel lines, but do not start the engine.<br /> * Check the new filter for leaks<br /> * Start the engine, check for leaks<br /> * Put the bay back together.<br /> <br /> <br /> It might sound a bit strange, but if you do it this way, and have the parts you need at hand - it is literally a 10 minute job! <br /> Remove the fuel filter<br /> <br /> ====Shopping list====<br /> <br /> * Fuel filter - Fram G3727 (Lotus A910E6929F £13.63 ? [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6343 See Here] for alternatives)<br /> * 2 x 'O' rings (Lotus A082L6169F £0.57 ea) - Alternative MG/Rover part # EDP9976<br /> * 60cm 8mm bore Injection fuel hose<br /> * 2 x jubilee clips (size 0000)<br /> <br /> ====Tools required====<br /> <br /> * 21mm open-end spanner (wrench)<br /> * 16mm open-end spanner (wrench)<br /> * Cross-head screwdriver<br /> * 10mm socket on 1/4&quot; drive<br /> * Stanley knife<br /> * 7mm socket for jubilee clips<br /> <br /> [[Category:Components]]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Jackshaft 2011-01-05T16:47:08Z

<p>Elan SE: </p> <hr /> <div>The jackshaft is a short shaft that couples the RH driveshaft to the gearbox. Lotus incorporated the jackshaft to allow the driveshafts to be the same length, thereby minimising torque steer.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Jackshaft.jpg]]<br /> <br /> The Lotus part number is A100F6033F (item #5 below):<br /> <br /> [[Image:47.15A.gif]]<br /> <br /> The bearing can wear out but it is a bog standard 6206-2RS plain single row, ball bearing type with rubber seals (30mm x 62mm x 16mm) and available from any good bearing supplier / manufacturer (SKF etc.) which may be picked up for ~£5. There are also two nitrile rubber seals, sizes 43mm x 56mm x 9mm and 38mm x 62mm x 8mm which are available for a few GBP.</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Paint_Colour_Codes 2010-10-16T16:12:15Z

<p>Elan SE: </p> <hr /> <div>__NOTOC__<br /> <br /> Below are the standard Elan colours available when new.<br /> <br /> {{warning|text='''Buyer Beware:''' The colours below are the standard Elan colours when the car left the factory. If a car's been resprayed with a different colour, it '''may''' have been involved in a crash or had serious damage in its history. Tread carefully when buying any car that has been resprayed.}}<br /> <br /> Often, the paint colour code for your Elan can be found on the VIN plate located in the engine bay, although it seems that not all cars have the colour code present.<br /> <br /> [http://awsnet.co.uk/lec/images/between%20the%20lights%20S2.jpg S2 under-bonnet labels]<br /> <br /> * ‘A’ prefix paint codes are used for cars finished in ICI 2K two pack acrylic polyurethane paint introduced around 1977.<br /> * ‘B’ codes indicate DuPont basecoat/clear acrylic enamel paint introduced during 1991, with water based paints being phased in during 1997.<br /> <br /> The paint code number is often stamped in the lower left corner of the vehicle identification plate fixed to the wheelarch in the front engine compartment, if your car does not have this code present, Lotus Customer Service (01953 6080000) will be able to tell you the colour code if you quote your VIN in full.<br /> <br /> == ICI Colours ==<br /> {| style=&quot;width:100%; background:#fcfcfc; margin-top:1.2em; border:1px solid #024a15;&quot;<br /> ! Lotus Code || Option Code || Name || ICI's Code || Lotus part #<br /> |-<br /> | A21 || IAAB || Monaco White || P4207517|| A089B6149V || [[Image:Summer.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | A23 || IABB || Calypso Red || P420GJ23 || A089B6150V || [[Image:Elan CalypsoRed2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | A45 || IADB || Silver Frost || P4217805 || A082B6087V || [[Image:Elan SilverFrost2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | A59 || IAJB || Steel Blue || P4218118M || A082B6116V || [[Image:Elan SteelBlue2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | A64 || IAOB || Norfolk Mustard || P420WD55 || A082B6192V || [[Image:Elan NorfolkMustard.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | A65 || IAEB || British Racing Green || P420GE51 || A089B6197V || [[Image:Elan BritishRacingGreen.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | A68 || IANB || Pacific Blue || P4217750 || A089B6196V || [[Image:Elan PacificBlue2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Du-Pont Colours ==<br /> {| style=&quot;width:100%; background:#fcfcfc; margin-top:1.2em; border:1px solid #024a15;&quot;<br /> ! Lotus Code || Option Code || Name || Dupont's Code || Lotus Part #<br /> |-<br /> | B01 || IAAB || Monaco White || ABN9149 || A100B6240V || [[Image:Summer.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B02 || IACB || Black || AB47600 || A100B6240V || [[Image:Elan Black.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B03 || IABB || Calypso Red || ABK9197 || A100B6239V || [[Image:Elan CalypsoRed2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B04 || IAEB || British Racing Green || ABK9349 || A100B6238V || [[Image:Elan BritishRacingGreen.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B05 || IAOB || Norfolk Mustard || ABN9561 || A100B6237V || [[Image:Elan NorfolkMustard.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B06 || IAQB || Aqua Blue || ABK9253 || A100B6255V || [[Image:Elan AquaBlue2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B07 || IARB || Silk Red || ABL9683 || B100B6254V || [[Image:Elan SilkRed2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B08 || IANB || Pacific Blue || ABN9144 || A100V6234V || [[Image:Elan PacificBlue2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B09 || IADB || Silver Frost || ABL9056 || A100B6235V || [[Image:Elan SilverFrost2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B10 || IAJB || Steel Blue || ABN9148 || A100B6236V || [[Image:Elan SteelBlue2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B13 || || Metallic Black || ABN8113 || A082B6313F || <br /> |-<br /> | B16 || || Empire Green || ABW9320 || A082B6299F || <br /> |-<br /> | B18 || || Medina Green Metallic || N9888 || A082B6301F || [[Image:Elan MedinaGreen.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B19 || || Palacio Purple || 3E321 || A082B6302F || [[Image:Elan PalacioPurple.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B20 || || Azure Blue ||L9890 || A082B6303F || [[Image:Elan AzureBlue.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B21 || || Lotus Racing Green Metallic || L9051 || A082B6304F || [[Image:Green.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B42 || || Midnight Blue ||L8632 || A082B6335F || [[Image:Elan MidnightBlue2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B45 || || Cranberry Red ||N9571 || || [[Image:Elan CranberryRed.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B48 || || Mauritius Blue Metallic|| H9322 || || [[Image:Elan MauritiusBlue.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B51 || || Pearl White Metallic || ABN9150 || || [[Image:Pear elan.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B52 || || Magenta Metallic || H9883 || || <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Other Colours ==<br /> {| style=&quot;width:100%; background:#fcfcfc; margin-top:1.2em; border:1px solid #024a15;&quot;<br /> ! Description<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Ultimatt's Mazda RX8 metallic red || [[Image:Elan MazdaRX8metallicRed.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | Stevo's Lamborghini Arancia Atlas Pearl Orange|| [[Image:Elan_LamborghiniArancioAtlasPearlOrange.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | Kier's Pitachio Lime Green (Lotus code L13) || [[Image:Elan_PistachioLimeGreen(L13).jpg|75px]]<br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> == External Links ==<br /> * [http://www.grouplotus.com/media/car/doc/Paint%20Codes_Website.pdf Group Lotus Paint Code information] (PDF File)<br /> * [http://www.mikecauser.com/lotus/parts/paint_codes.html Mike Causer's Paint Code Information]<br /> <br /> [[Category:UsefulInfo]]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Paint_Colour_Codes 2010-10-16T16:10:59Z

<p>Elan SE: </p> <hr /> <div>__NOTOC__<br /> <br /> Below are the standard Elan colours available when new.<br /> <br /> {{warning|text='''Buyer Beware:''' The colours below are the standard Elan colours when the car left the factory. If a car's been resprayed with a different colour, it '''may''' have been involved in a crash or had serious damage in its history. Tread carefully when buying any car that has been resprayed.}}<br /> <br /> Often, the paint colour code for your Elan can be found on the VIN plate located in the engine bay, although it seems that not all cars have the colour code present.<br /> <br /> [http://awsnet.co.uk/lec/images/between%20the%20lights%20S2.jpg S2 under-bonnet labels]<br /> <br /> * ‘A’ prefix paint codes are used for cars finished in ICI 2K two pack acrylic polyurethane paint introduced around 1977.<br /> * ‘B’ codes indicate DuPont basecoat/clear acrylic enamel paint introduced during 1991, with water based paints being phased in during 1997.<br /> <br /> The paint code number is often stamped in the lower left corner of the vehicle identification plate fixed to the wheelarch in the front engine compartment, if your car does not have this code present, Lotus Customer Service (01953 6080000) will be able to tell you the colour code if you quote your VIN in full.<br /> <br /> == ICI Colours ==<br /> {| style=&quot;width:100%; background:#fcfcfc; margin-top:1.2em; border:1px solid #024a15;&quot;<br /> ! Lotus Code || Option Code || Name || ICI's Code || Lotus part #<br /> |-<br /> | A21 || IAAB || Monaco White || P4207517|| A089B6149V || [[Image:Summer.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | A23 || IABB || Calypso Red || P420GJ23 || A089B6150V || [[Image:Elan CalypsoRed2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | A45 || IADB || Silver Frost || P4217805 || A082B6087V || [[Image:Elan SilverFrost2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | A59 || IAJB || Steel Blue || P4218118M || A082B6116V || [[Image:Elan SteelBlue2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | A64 || IAOB || Norfolk Mustard || P420WD55 || A082B6192V || [[Image:Elan NorfolkMustard.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | A65 || IAEB || British Racing Green || P420GE51 || A089B6197V || [[Image:Elan BritishRacingGreen.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | A68 || IANB || Pacific Blue || P4217750 || A089B6196V || [[Image:Elan PacificBlue2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Du-Pont Colours ==<br /> {| style=&quot;width:100%; background:#fcfcfc; margin-top:1.2em; border:1px solid #024a15;&quot;<br /> ! Lotus Code || Option Code || Name || Dupont's Code || Lotus Part #<br /> |-<br /> | B01 || IAAB || Monaco White || ABN9149 || A100B6240V || [[Image:Summer.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B02 || IACB || Black || AB47600 || A100B6240V || [[Image:Elan Black.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B03 || IABB || Calypso Red || ABK9197 || A100B6239V || [[Image:Elan CalypsoRed2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B04 || IAEB || British Racing Green || ABK9349 || A100B6238V || [[Image:Elan BritishRacingGreen.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B05 || IAOB || Norfolk Mustard || ABN9561 || A100B6237V || [[Image:Elan NorfolkMustard.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B06 || IAQB || Aqua Blue || ABK9253 || A100B6255V || [[Image:Elan AquaBlue2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B07 || IARB || Silk Red || ABL9683 || B100B6254V || [[Image:Elan SilkRed2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B08 || IANB || Pacific Blue || ABN9144 || A100V6234V || [[Image:Elan PacificBlue2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B09 || IADB || Silver Frost || ABL9056 || A100B6235V || [[Image:Elan SilverFrost2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B10 || IAJB || Steel Blue || ABN9148 || A100B6236V || [[Image:Elan SteelBlue2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B13 || || Metallic Black || ABN8113 || A082B6313F || <br /> |-<br /> | B16 || || Empire Green || ABW9320 || A082B6299F || <br /> |-<br /> | B18 || || Medina Green Metallic || N9888 || A082B6301F || [[Image:Elan MedinaGreen.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B19 || || Palacio Purple || 3E321 || A082B6302F || [[Image:Elan PalacioPurple.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B20 || || Azure Blue ||L9890 || A082B6303F || [[Image:Elan AzureBlue.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B21 || || Lotus Racing Green Metallic || L9051 || A082B6304F || [[Image:Green.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B42 || || Midnight Blue ||L8632 || A082B6335F || [[Image:Elan MidnightBlue2.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B45 || || Cranberry Red ||N9571 || || [[Image:Elan CranberryRed.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B48 || || Mauritius Blue Metallic|| H9322 || || [[Image:Elan MauritiusBlue.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B51 || || Pearl White Metallic || ABN9150 || || [[Image:Image:Pear elan.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | B52 || || Magenta Metallic || H9883 || || <br /> |}<br /> <br /> == Other Colours ==<br /> {| style=&quot;width:100%; background:#fcfcfc; margin-top:1.2em; border:1px solid #024a15;&quot;<br /> ! Description<br /> <br /> |-<br /> | Ultimatt's Mazda RX8 metallic red || [[Image:Elan MazdaRX8metallicRed.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | Stevo's Lamborghini Arancia Atlas Pearl Orange|| [[Image:Elan_LamborghiniArancioAtlasPearlOrange.jpg|75px]]<br /> |-<br /> | Kier's Pitachio Lime Green (Lotus code L13) || [[Image:Elan_PistachioLimeGreen(L13).jpg|75px]]<br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> == External Links ==<br /> * [http://www.grouplotus.com/media/car/doc/Paint%20Codes_Website.pdf Group Lotus Paint Code information] (PDF File)<br /> * [http://www.mikecauser.com/lotus/parts/paint_codes.html Mike Causer's Paint Code Information]<br /> <br /> [[Category:UsefulInfo]]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/File:Elan_PearlWhite.jpg 2010-10-16T16:08:31Z

<p>Elan SE: uploaded a new version of &quot;Image:Elan PearlWhite.jpg&quot;</p> <hr /> <div>Example of Pearl White Metallic</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/File:Pear_elan.jpg 2010-10-16T16:05:41Z

<p>Elan SE: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Light_motors 2010-10-02T20:21:27Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Symptoms */</p> <hr /> <div>=== Symptoms ===<br /> <br /> When attempting to turn-on, there’s a lot of whining, then you don’t always manage to get it up, at least not all the way, conversely, after it’s been up and shining then it’s turned-off, it goes down with a bang and the whining continues after it’s tucked back in it’s resting place. Sounds familiar ? ...<br /> <br /> An intermittent head light motor<br /> <br /> http://s615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/Elan_SE/?action=view&amp;current=100_1236.mp4<br /> <br /> === Spares ===<br /> <br /> Where to get the spares to repair your broken motors http://www.rodneydickman.com/<br /> <br /> What you will get in a new kit...<br /> <br /> [[Image:Light Motors 1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:Full_light_motor.jpg‎ ]]<br /> <br /> After removing the the Headlamp Motor from the car, it is pretty simple to remove the three screws ‘A’ (English size I recall) holding the Gear Drive Cover to access the Plastic Driven Gear which was the root of my Headlamps impotence. To remove this Gear, I found that it was necessary to raise the Motor Housing by taking the two retaining screws 'B' out and lifting the Motor about ¼ inch, at which point the Motor’s two spring-loaded Carbon Brushes step off the Commutator and come to rest on a smaller diameter section of the Motor Shaft, but at least you can now remove the Plastic Gear and begin the repair.<br /> <br /> '''WARNING: If you remove the motor completely, make sure it is replaced in the same orientation otherwise you will end up with winking or inverse headlights - the pod will be raised when the headlight is off and will descend when the headlight is on!'''<br /> <br /> [[Image:Light_gear.gif‎]]<br /> <br /> The Gear is primarily comprised of three parts, the Plastic section carries the Gear Teeth and forms part of the Hub. The second part is a Die-cast assembly with an integral Shaft, and the third part is the substance that fills the space between the Die-cast ‘Clover Leaf’ and the correspondingly shaped but larger cavity inside the Plastic Hub.<br /> <br /> Inside mine I found a granular filling not unlike Cane Sugar Crystals, both in color and form. I’m guessing that the original condition of this material was rubber-like, giving the drive mechanism some flexibility (Otherwise there would be no reason for the huge clearance between the two parts ?).<br /> <br /> After thoroughly cleaning and de-greasing each part, I chose to use an RTV Silicone Adhesive to fill the Hub prior to re-assembling with the Shaft.<br /> <br /> Once the adhesive has cured you can test your patience by attempting to get the Motor Housing to mate to the main Gear Housing. The tricky part here is holding the Carbon Brushes against their springs as you lower the Motor Shaft. In order to hold the Brush’s apart through an ever decreasing gap, you will need to use something that can hook the Brush connection wires, yet be no thicker than 1/8 inch. I used half of two Cotter Pins, but I should think that a Paper Clip or similar could be modified to achieve the same end. <br /> <br /> Apart from the Carbon Brushes, the repair is very simple, and it could just save you the $170 cost for a new part.<br /> <br /> === Headlamp Motor Fix ===<br /> <br /> (part 2)<br /> <br /> First, identify which side is having trouble. They utilize the same repair kit, but the left side requires a bit more work (this has to do w/ the brush installation on the armature - I'll explain this later).<br /> <br /> The part is in kit form -- &quot;for repairing Ford/Chrysler power windows.&quot; I found them locally for $14.95/Kit. <br /> Good Luck! <br /> <br /> [[Image:TorquePinKit.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Just read this very slowly and carefully.<br /> It will make sense if you think about it....<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> LEFT SIDE:<br /> 1. Jack up vehicle / Remove wheel / Remove plastic inner <br /> fender. The inner fender is held by (3-4) 10mm bolts<br /> in the arch of the well and (3) Phillips #2 screws on<br /> the underside. The inner fender can now be pulled out.<br /> <br /> 2. Open hood / Remove (2) 10mm bolts behind the<br /> headlight housing. Be sure to count the shims/washers<br /> under each bolt because they will fall out. Doing<br /> this will make adjustments a lot easier!<br /> <br /> 3. Remove 10mm bolt retaining connecting rod at the<br /> light motor. (see pic below - &quot;Removal Top View&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:RemovalTopView.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 4. Remove (2) 8mm bolts anchoring the motor unit from<br /> inner fender. (see pic at right - &quot;Motor Removal&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:MotorRemoval.jpg]] <br /> <br /> 5. The motor is now free to be removed from the vehicle.<br /> <br /> 6. The motor should be disassembled on a towel - to<br /> catch small pieces (small springs/bolts).<br /> <br /> 7. Remove the large bracket from the unit 8mm nut and<br /> bolt. Remove the 10mm bolt on the drive arm. The arm<br /> can be removed by clamping in a vise and taping the<br /> center bolt with a small hammer.<br /> <br /> 8. Remove the (3) 1/4&quot; bolts on the other side. Upon <br /> removal of this cover - it'll reveal the mysterious<br /> granules. Remove the (2) 1/4&quot; bolts retaining the<br /> housing for the Armature (Don't lose the (2) springs<br /> behind the brushes!!!) Upon removal of the Armature<br /> shaft -- the white plastic sprocket is free to be<br /> removed from the housing.<br /> <br /> 9. Clean the parts with compressed air, insert the new<br /> torque pins and re-lube the sprocket with grease. Insert<br /> the sprocket back into the housing. (see pic below - &quot;Torque Pins&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:TorquePins.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 10. Here's the tricky (hard) part. Get a strand of wire <br /> - can be found in a stripped length of speaker wire<br /> (see pic - &quot;Torque Pins&quot;). Holding the motor housing in<br /> one hand / Insert the (2) springs in the slots near the<br /> brushes. (see pic at below - &quot;Brushes&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:Brushes.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 11. With the strand of wire / Make a loop around the<br /> brush and insert the brush into the slot (see pic - &quot;Brushes&quot;)<br /> Do the same with the other side.<br /> <br /> 12. While pulling the brush back w/ the loop of<br /> wire/Slide Armature into the housing/When fully<br /> inserted, remove wire by pulling on one side of the<br /> loop/Do this on the other side/Attach (2) 1/4&quot; bolts.<br /> <br /> 13. Position sprocket cover and install (3) 1/4&quot;<br /> bolts/Attach large bracket to motor housing.<br /> <br /> 14. Place motor back into vehicle and install all<br /> bolts removed (just reverse the removal procedure).<br /> <br /> [[Category:HowTo]]<br /> [[Category:Components]]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Light_motors 2010-10-02T20:18:54Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Symptoms */</p> <hr /> <div>=== Symptoms ===<br /> <br /> When attempting to turn-on, there’s a lot of whining, then you don’t always manage to get it up, at least not all the way, conversely, after it’s been up and shining then it’s turned-off, it goes down with a bang and the whining continues after it’s tucked back in it’s resting place. Sounds familiar ? ...<br /> <br /> An intermittent head light motor<br /> <br /> http://s615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/Elan_SE/?action=view&amp;current=100_1236.mp4<br /> <br /> This has never happened to me... but a friend of mine had this problem and this is what I, I mean he, did to cure it.<br /> <br /> === Spares ===<br /> <br /> Where to get the spares to repair your broken motors http://www.rodneydickman.com/<br /> <br /> What you will get in a new kit...<br /> <br /> [[Image:Light Motors 1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:Full_light_motor.jpg‎ ]]<br /> <br /> After removing the the Headlamp Motor from the car, it is pretty simple to remove the three screws ‘A’ (English size I recall) holding the Gear Drive Cover to access the Plastic Driven Gear which was the root of my Headlamps impotence. To remove this Gear, I found that it was necessary to raise the Motor Housing by taking the two retaining screws 'B' out and lifting the Motor about ¼ inch, at which point the Motor’s two spring-loaded Carbon Brushes step off the Commutator and come to rest on a smaller diameter section of the Motor Shaft, but at least you can now remove the Plastic Gear and begin the repair.<br /> <br /> '''WARNING: If you remove the motor completely, make sure it is replaced in the same orientation otherwise you will end up with winking or inverse headlights - the pod will be raised when the headlight is off and will descend when the headlight is on!'''<br /> <br /> [[Image:Light_gear.gif‎]]<br /> <br /> The Gear is primarily comprised of three parts, the Plastic section carries the Gear Teeth and forms part of the Hub. The second part is a Die-cast assembly with an integral Shaft, and the third part is the substance that fills the space between the Die-cast ‘Clover Leaf’ and the correspondingly shaped but larger cavity inside the Plastic Hub.<br /> <br /> Inside mine I found a granular filling not unlike Cane Sugar Crystals, both in color and form. I’m guessing that the original condition of this material was rubber-like, giving the drive mechanism some flexibility (Otherwise there would be no reason for the huge clearance between the two parts ?).<br /> <br /> After thoroughly cleaning and de-greasing each part, I chose to use an RTV Silicone Adhesive to fill the Hub prior to re-assembling with the Shaft.<br /> <br /> Once the adhesive has cured you can test your patience by attempting to get the Motor Housing to mate to the main Gear Housing. The tricky part here is holding the Carbon Brushes against their springs as you lower the Motor Shaft. In order to hold the Brush’s apart through an ever decreasing gap, you will need to use something that can hook the Brush connection wires, yet be no thicker than 1/8 inch. I used half of two Cotter Pins, but I should think that a Paper Clip or similar could be modified to achieve the same end. <br /> <br /> Apart from the Carbon Brushes, the repair is very simple, and it could just save you the $170 cost for a new part.<br /> <br /> === Headlamp Motor Fix ===<br /> <br /> (part 2)<br /> <br /> First, identify which side is having trouble. They utilize the same repair kit, but the left side requires a bit more work (this has to do w/ the brush installation on the armature - I'll explain this later).<br /> <br /> The part is in kit form -- &quot;for repairing Ford/Chrysler power windows.&quot; I found them locally for $14.95/Kit. <br /> Good Luck! <br /> <br /> [[Image:TorquePinKit.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Just read this very slowly and carefully.<br /> It will make sense if you think about it....<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> LEFT SIDE:<br /> 1. Jack up vehicle / Remove wheel / Remove plastic inner <br /> fender. The inner fender is held by (3-4) 10mm bolts<br /> in the arch of the well and (3) Phillips #2 screws on<br /> the underside. The inner fender can now be pulled out.<br /> <br /> 2. Open hood / Remove (2) 10mm bolts behind the<br /> headlight housing. Be sure to count the shims/washers<br /> under each bolt because they will fall out. Doing<br /> this will make adjustments a lot easier!<br /> <br /> 3. Remove 10mm bolt retaining connecting rod at the<br /> light motor. (see pic below - &quot;Removal Top View&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:RemovalTopView.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 4. Remove (2) 8mm bolts anchoring the motor unit from<br /> inner fender. (see pic at right - &quot;Motor Removal&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:MotorRemoval.jpg]] <br /> <br /> 5. The motor is now free to be removed from the vehicle.<br /> <br /> 6. The motor should be disassembled on a towel - to<br /> catch small pieces (small springs/bolts).<br /> <br /> 7. Remove the large bracket from the unit 8mm nut and<br /> bolt. Remove the 10mm bolt on the drive arm. The arm<br /> can be removed by clamping in a vise and taping the<br /> center bolt with a small hammer.<br /> <br /> 8. Remove the (3) 1/4&quot; bolts on the other side. Upon <br /> removal of this cover - it'll reveal the mysterious<br /> granules. Remove the (2) 1/4&quot; bolts retaining the<br /> housing for the Armature (Don't lose the (2) springs<br /> behind the brushes!!!) Upon removal of the Armature<br /> shaft -- the white plastic sprocket is free to be<br /> removed from the housing.<br /> <br /> 9. Clean the parts with compressed air, insert the new<br /> torque pins and re-lube the sprocket with grease. Insert<br /> the sprocket back into the housing. (see pic below - &quot;Torque Pins&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:TorquePins.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 10. Here's the tricky (hard) part. Get a strand of wire <br /> - can be found in a stripped length of speaker wire<br /> (see pic - &quot;Torque Pins&quot;). Holding the motor housing in<br /> one hand / Insert the (2) springs in the slots near the<br /> brushes. (see pic at below - &quot;Brushes&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:Brushes.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 11. With the strand of wire / Make a loop around the<br /> brush and insert the brush into the slot (see pic - &quot;Brushes&quot;)<br /> Do the same with the other side.<br /> <br /> 12. While pulling the brush back w/ the loop of<br /> wire/Slide Armature into the housing/When fully<br /> inserted, remove wire by pulling on one side of the<br /> loop/Do this on the other side/Attach (2) 1/4&quot; bolts.<br /> <br /> 13. Position sprocket cover and install (3) 1/4&quot;<br /> bolts/Attach large bracket to motor housing.<br /> <br /> 14. Place motor back into vehicle and install all<br /> bolts removed (just reverse the removal procedure).<br /> <br /> [[Category:HowTo]]<br /> [[Category:Components]]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Light_motors 2010-10-02T20:18:05Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Symptoms */</p> <hr /> <div>=== Symptoms ===<br /> <br /> When attempting to turn-on, there’s a lot of whining, then you don’t always manage to get it up, at least not all the way, conversely, after it’s been up and shining then it’s turned-off, it goes down with a bang and the whining continues after it’s tucked back in it’s resting place. Sounds familiar ? ...<br /> <br /> An intermittent head light motor<br /> <br /> URL=http://s615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/Elan_SE/?action=view&amp;current=100_1236.mp4<br /> <br /> This has never happened to me... but a friend of mine had this problem and this is what I, I mean he, did to cure it.<br /> <br /> === Spares ===<br /> <br /> Where to get the spares to repair your broken motors http://www.rodneydickman.com/<br /> <br /> What you will get in a new kit...<br /> <br /> [[Image:Light Motors 1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:Full_light_motor.jpg‎ ]]<br /> <br /> After removing the the Headlamp Motor from the car, it is pretty simple to remove the three screws ‘A’ (English size I recall) holding the Gear Drive Cover to access the Plastic Driven Gear which was the root of my Headlamps impotence. To remove this Gear, I found that it was necessary to raise the Motor Housing by taking the two retaining screws 'B' out and lifting the Motor about ¼ inch, at which point the Motor’s two spring-loaded Carbon Brushes step off the Commutator and come to rest on a smaller diameter section of the Motor Shaft, but at least you can now remove the Plastic Gear and begin the repair.<br /> <br /> '''WARNING: If you remove the motor completely, make sure it is replaced in the same orientation otherwise you will end up with winking or inverse headlights - the pod will be raised when the headlight is off and will descend when the headlight is on!'''<br /> <br /> [[Image:Light_gear.gif‎]]<br /> <br /> The Gear is primarily comprised of three parts, the Plastic section carries the Gear Teeth and forms part of the Hub. The second part is a Die-cast assembly with an integral Shaft, and the third part is the substance that fills the space between the Die-cast ‘Clover Leaf’ and the correspondingly shaped but larger cavity inside the Plastic Hub.<br /> <br /> Inside mine I found a granular filling not unlike Cane Sugar Crystals, both in color and form. I’m guessing that the original condition of this material was rubber-like, giving the drive mechanism some flexibility (Otherwise there would be no reason for the huge clearance between the two parts ?).<br /> <br /> After thoroughly cleaning and de-greasing each part, I chose to use an RTV Silicone Adhesive to fill the Hub prior to re-assembling with the Shaft.<br /> <br /> Once the adhesive has cured you can test your patience by attempting to get the Motor Housing to mate to the main Gear Housing. The tricky part here is holding the Carbon Brushes against their springs as you lower the Motor Shaft. In order to hold the Brush’s apart through an ever decreasing gap, you will need to use something that can hook the Brush connection wires, yet be no thicker than 1/8 inch. I used half of two Cotter Pins, but I should think that a Paper Clip or similar could be modified to achieve the same end. <br /> <br /> Apart from the Carbon Brushes, the repair is very simple, and it could just save you the $170 cost for a new part.<br /> <br /> === Headlamp Motor Fix ===<br /> <br /> (part 2)<br /> <br /> First, identify which side is having trouble. They utilize the same repair kit, but the left side requires a bit more work (this has to do w/ the brush installation on the armature - I'll explain this later).<br /> <br /> The part is in kit form -- &quot;for repairing Ford/Chrysler power windows.&quot; I found them locally for $14.95/Kit. <br /> Good Luck! <br /> <br /> [[Image:TorquePinKit.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Just read this very slowly and carefully.<br /> It will make sense if you think about it....<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> LEFT SIDE:<br /> 1. Jack up vehicle / Remove wheel / Remove plastic inner <br /> fender. The inner fender is held by (3-4) 10mm bolts<br /> in the arch of the well and (3) Phillips #2 screws on<br /> the underside. The inner fender can now be pulled out.<br /> <br /> 2. Open hood / Remove (2) 10mm bolts behind the<br /> headlight housing. Be sure to count the shims/washers<br /> under each bolt because they will fall out. Doing<br /> this will make adjustments a lot easier!<br /> <br /> 3. Remove 10mm bolt retaining connecting rod at the<br /> light motor. (see pic below - &quot;Removal Top View&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:RemovalTopView.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 4. Remove (2) 8mm bolts anchoring the motor unit from<br /> inner fender. (see pic at right - &quot;Motor Removal&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:MotorRemoval.jpg]] <br /> <br /> 5. The motor is now free to be removed from the vehicle.<br /> <br /> 6. The motor should be disassembled on a towel - to<br /> catch small pieces (small springs/bolts).<br /> <br /> 7. Remove the large bracket from the unit 8mm nut and<br /> bolt. Remove the 10mm bolt on the drive arm. The arm<br /> can be removed by clamping in a vise and taping the<br /> center bolt with a small hammer.<br /> <br /> 8. Remove the (3) 1/4&quot; bolts on the other side. Upon <br /> removal of this cover - it'll reveal the mysterious<br /> granules. Remove the (2) 1/4&quot; bolts retaining the<br /> housing for the Armature (Don't lose the (2) springs<br /> behind the brushes!!!) Upon removal of the Armature<br /> shaft -- the white plastic sprocket is free to be<br /> removed from the housing.<br /> <br /> 9. Clean the parts with compressed air, insert the new<br /> torque pins and re-lube the sprocket with grease. Insert<br /> the sprocket back into the housing. (see pic below - &quot;Torque Pins&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:TorquePins.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 10. Here's the tricky (hard) part. Get a strand of wire <br /> - can be found in a stripped length of speaker wire<br /> (see pic - &quot;Torque Pins&quot;). Holding the motor housing in<br /> one hand / Insert the (2) springs in the slots near the<br /> brushes. (see pic at below - &quot;Brushes&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:Brushes.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 11. With the strand of wire / Make a loop around the<br /> brush and insert the brush into the slot (see pic - &quot;Brushes&quot;)<br /> Do the same with the other side.<br /> <br /> 12. While pulling the brush back w/ the loop of<br /> wire/Slide Armature into the housing/When fully<br /> inserted, remove wire by pulling on one side of the<br /> loop/Do this on the other side/Attach (2) 1/4&quot; bolts.<br /> <br /> 13. Position sprocket cover and install (3) 1/4&quot;<br /> bolts/Attach large bracket to motor housing.<br /> <br /> 14. Place motor back into vehicle and install all<br /> bolts removed (just reverse the removal procedure).<br /> <br /> [[Category:HowTo]]<br /> [[Category:Components]]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Light_motors 2010-10-02T20:17:02Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Symptoms */</p> <hr /> <div>=== Symptoms ===<br /> <br /> When attempting to turn-on, there’s a lot of whining, then you don’t always manage to get it up, at least not all the way, conversely, after it’s been up and shining then it’s turned-off, it goes down with a bang and the whining continues after it’s tucked back in it’s resting place. Sounds familiar ? ...<br /> <br /> An intermittent head light motor<br /> <br /> [URL=http://s615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/Elan_SE/?action=view&amp;current=100_1236.mp4][IMG]http://i615.photobucket.com/albums/tt234/Elan_SE/th_100_1236.jpg[/IMG][/URL]<br /> <br /> This has never happened to me... but a friend of mine had this problem and this is what I, I mean he, did to cure it.<br /> <br /> === Spares ===<br /> <br /> Where to get the spares to repair your broken motors http://www.rodneydickman.com/<br /> <br /> What you will get in a new kit...<br /> <br /> [[Image:Light Motors 1.jpg]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:Full_light_motor.jpg‎ ]]<br /> <br /> After removing the the Headlamp Motor from the car, it is pretty simple to remove the three screws ‘A’ (English size I recall) holding the Gear Drive Cover to access the Plastic Driven Gear which was the root of my Headlamps impotence. To remove this Gear, I found that it was necessary to raise the Motor Housing by taking the two retaining screws 'B' out and lifting the Motor about ¼ inch, at which point the Motor’s two spring-loaded Carbon Brushes step off the Commutator and come to rest on a smaller diameter section of the Motor Shaft, but at least you can now remove the Plastic Gear and begin the repair.<br /> <br /> '''WARNING: If you remove the motor completely, make sure it is replaced in the same orientation otherwise you will end up with winking or inverse headlights - the pod will be raised when the headlight is off and will descend when the headlight is on!'''<br /> <br /> [[Image:Light_gear.gif‎]]<br /> <br /> The Gear is primarily comprised of three parts, the Plastic section carries the Gear Teeth and forms part of the Hub. The second part is a Die-cast assembly with an integral Shaft, and the third part is the substance that fills the space between the Die-cast ‘Clover Leaf’ and the correspondingly shaped but larger cavity inside the Plastic Hub.<br /> <br /> Inside mine I found a granular filling not unlike Cane Sugar Crystals, both in color and form. I’m guessing that the original condition of this material was rubber-like, giving the drive mechanism some flexibility (Otherwise there would be no reason for the huge clearance between the two parts ?).<br /> <br /> After thoroughly cleaning and de-greasing each part, I chose to use an RTV Silicone Adhesive to fill the Hub prior to re-assembling with the Shaft.<br /> <br /> Once the adhesive has cured you can test your patience by attempting to get the Motor Housing to mate to the main Gear Housing. The tricky part here is holding the Carbon Brushes against their springs as you lower the Motor Shaft. In order to hold the Brush’s apart through an ever decreasing gap, you will need to use something that can hook the Brush connection wires, yet be no thicker than 1/8 inch. I used half of two Cotter Pins, but I should think that a Paper Clip or similar could be modified to achieve the same end. <br /> <br /> Apart from the Carbon Brushes, the repair is very simple, and it could just save you the $170 cost for a new part.<br /> <br /> === Headlamp Motor Fix ===<br /> <br /> (part 2)<br /> <br /> First, identify which side is having trouble. They utilize the same repair kit, but the left side requires a bit more work (this has to do w/ the brush installation on the armature - I'll explain this later).<br /> <br /> The part is in kit form -- &quot;for repairing Ford/Chrysler power windows.&quot; I found them locally for $14.95/Kit. <br /> Good Luck! <br /> <br /> [[Image:TorquePinKit.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Just read this very slowly and carefully.<br /> It will make sense if you think about it....<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> LEFT SIDE:<br /> 1. Jack up vehicle / Remove wheel / Remove plastic inner <br /> fender. The inner fender is held by (3-4) 10mm bolts<br /> in the arch of the well and (3) Phillips #2 screws on<br /> the underside. The inner fender can now be pulled out.<br /> <br /> 2. Open hood / Remove (2) 10mm bolts behind the<br /> headlight housing. Be sure to count the shims/washers<br /> under each bolt because they will fall out. Doing<br /> this will make adjustments a lot easier!<br /> <br /> 3. Remove 10mm bolt retaining connecting rod at the<br /> light motor. (see pic below - &quot;Removal Top View&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:RemovalTopView.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 4. Remove (2) 8mm bolts anchoring the motor unit from<br /> inner fender. (see pic at right - &quot;Motor Removal&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:MotorRemoval.jpg]] <br /> <br /> 5. The motor is now free to be removed from the vehicle.<br /> <br /> 6. The motor should be disassembled on a towel - to<br /> catch small pieces (small springs/bolts).<br /> <br /> 7. Remove the large bracket from the unit 8mm nut and<br /> bolt. Remove the 10mm bolt on the drive arm. The arm<br /> can be removed by clamping in a vise and taping the<br /> center bolt with a small hammer.<br /> <br /> 8. Remove the (3) 1/4&quot; bolts on the other side. Upon <br /> removal of this cover - it'll reveal the mysterious<br /> granules. Remove the (2) 1/4&quot; bolts retaining the<br /> housing for the Armature (Don't lose the (2) springs<br /> behind the brushes!!!) Upon removal of the Armature<br /> shaft -- the white plastic sprocket is free to be<br /> removed from the housing.<br /> <br /> 9. Clean the parts with compressed air, insert the new<br /> torque pins and re-lube the sprocket with grease. Insert<br /> the sprocket back into the housing. (see pic below - &quot;Torque Pins&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:TorquePins.jpg]]<br /> <br /> <br /> 10. Here's the tricky (hard) part. Get a strand of wire <br /> - can be found in a stripped length of speaker wire<br /> (see pic - &quot;Torque Pins&quot;). Holding the motor housing in<br /> one hand / Insert the (2) springs in the slots near the<br /> brushes. (see pic at below - &quot;Brushes&quot;)<br /> <br /> [[Image:Brushes.jpg]]<br /> <br /> 11. With the strand of wire / Make a loop around the<br /> brush and insert the brush into the slot (see pic - &quot;Brushes&quot;)<br /> Do the same with the other side.<br /> <br /> 12. While pulling the brush back w/ the loop of<br /> wire/Slide Armature into the housing/When fully<br /> inserted, remove wire by pulling on one side of the<br /> loop/Do this on the other side/Attach (2) 1/4&quot; bolts.<br /> <br /> 13. Position sprocket cover and install (3) 1/4&quot;<br /> bolts/Attach large bracket to motor housing.<br /> <br /> 14. Place motor back into vehicle and install all<br /> bolts removed (just reverse the removal procedure).<br /> <br /> [[Category:HowTo]]<br /> [[Category:Components]]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Toy_Models 2010-08-19T07:22:38Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Maisto */</p> <hr /> <div>''For information about the different Elan M100's that Lotus produced, see [[M100 Editions]].''<br /> <br /> == Maisto ==<br /> <br /> Maisto manufactured a 1/36 scale die-cast model for both the Elan SE and S2.<br /> <br /> These models were available in several guises, the most common was the Shell Petrol Stations promotion. This was a scheme of collecting points and redeeming them against a model car. The car was normally blue, packaged in a yellow box.<br /> <br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> Image:Lotus 3.jpg|Disributed by Shell uk petrol stations as part of a points collection scheme.<br /> Image:French_model.jpg| Disributed by European Shell petrol stations‎.<br /> Image:Lotus 4.jpg|Distributed by Maisto to toy shops in a silver box.<br /> Image:Lotus 2.jpg|Sold By Lotus cars as a toy.<br /> Image:Lotus 1.jpg|unable to ascertain why to this box, possibly given to Lotus employees.<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> There was a final quirk, Cars given to Lotus employees in shell boxes...<br /> <br /> <br /> IIRC the following colours were avilable from Lotus until 1994:-<br /> <br /> Red, yellow, blue,, Green, Black, white<br /> <br /> <br /> Yellow Lotus dealer version LOTPR00300<br /> Lotus dealer version LOTPR00301<br /> Lotus dealer version LOTPR00302<br /> Green Lotus dealer version LOTPR00303<br /> <br /> == Scale Model Technical Services ==<br /> <br /> The precision model cars listed in the catalogue from [http://www.smtsmodels.demon.co.uk/ SMTS]are manufactured from white meal with resin, photo-etched and plated parts to form 1:43 scale collectors cars. All are individually hand built and finished in authentic colours and decals. Models are also available in kit form, ready to paint and assemble. 1:24 scale models are listed separately.<br /> <br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> Image:SMTS BLUE.jpg<br /> Image:SMTS_MODEL.jpg<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;‎<br /> <br /> == The Hasbro 1/15 scale model ==<br /> <br /> A rare item indeed. This a direct copy by Hasbro of a 1989 to 1994 Lotus Elan SE M100, which was the car driven by James Bond Jr. in a short lived comic book series and TV show. It is over 11 inches long, six inches wide and 3 inches tall. Just like the James Bond Aston Martin, this little red Lotus has plenty of toys that blend into the car without overtaking the obvious Elan lines. The features include pop-out front guns and a saw blade battering ram, pull out hub cap shredder blades, a spring action ejector seat (the seats match the real car styling), a rear spoiler that flips up to become a bullet proof shield, and the dual exhaust pipes convert to spring fired missles.<br /> <br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> Image:James_Bond_JR.jpg‎<br /> Image:James_bond_jr_car_2.jpg‎<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> == ERTL Model ==<br /> <br /> [[Image:James_Bond_JR_1.jpg|thumb|left|ERTL ‎James Bond Jr Model]]<br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;<br /> <br /> == The Kenner 1/15 scale model ==<br /> <br /> Another rare item. This a direct copy by Kenner a trademark of Tonka Corporation, a subsidiary of Hasbro of a 1989 to 1994 Lotus Elan SE M100 which was the car driven by Jim Carrey's character from the movie The Mask. The toy is very large, I guessed at the 1/15 scale. It is over 12 inches long, six inches wide and 3 inches tall. The car is yellow and the decals are optional. The features include pop-up front jaws, pull out hub cap shredder blades, a spring action ejector seat (the seats match the real car styling), and the dual exhaust pipes convert to spring fired missles.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Mask lotus.jpg|thumb|left]]<br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;<br /> <br /> == Pattos Place ==<br /> <br /> Pattos Place is a one-man operation located in Sydney, Australia, manufacturing slot and model cars to various scales.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Body13290elanm100.jpg|thumb|left|1/32 Lexane Model]]<br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;<br /> <br /> == The LOTUSELANCENTRAL Model ==<br /> <br /> This [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10550&amp;highlight=models/ model] is still in the early planning stages.<br /> <br /> == Similar Models ==<br /> <br /> [[Image:Kia.jpg|thumb|left|The Kia Elan as seen on Ebay]]<br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;<br /> <br /> == Custom Paint Job ==<br /> <br /> By [[User:Ekapol|Ekapol]]<br /> <br /> Bored? Need an Elan fix? You could spent few hours playing with repainting, waxing, detailing, etc. The one I have comes from Shell Sportscar Collection series. <br /> <br /> &lt;gallery Caption=&quot;Custom Paint Job&quot;&gt;<br /> Image:model1.jpg|Here is the &quot;before&quot; shot of my 1st 1/36 Elan (around 3 inches). <br /> Image:model2.jpg|My &quot;after&quot; shot<br /> Image:model3.jpg|&quot;before&quot; w/ Coke can shifter <br /> Image:model4.jpg|&quot;after&quot; With side mirror and NOS switch<br /> Image:model5.jpg|Added yellow interior trim..<br /> Image:model6.jpg|Turn signal lights, and Lotus wheel caps<br /> Image:model7.jpg<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> ==See also==<br /> * [[M100 Editions]]<br /> * [http://www.lotusdriversguide.com/Modelcars/elanM100.php A bit more information]<br /> * [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7734&amp;postdays=0&amp;postorder=asc&amp;start=20 LEC thread link] about Model Elans.</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Toy_Models 2010-08-15T08:17:32Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Maisto */</p> <hr /> <div>''For information about the different Elan M100's that Lotus produced, see [[M100 Editions]].''<br /> <br /> == Maisto ==<br /> <br /> Maisto manufactured a 1/36 scale die-cast model for both the Elan SE and S2.<br /> <br /> These models were available in several guises, the most common was the Shell Petrol Stations promotion. This was a scheme of collecting points and redeeming them against a model car. The car was normally blue, packaged in a yellow box.<br /> <br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> Image:Lotus 3.jpg|Disributed by Shell petrol station as part of a points collection scheme<br /> Image:French_model.jpg|Distributed by Maisto to toy shops in a silver box.‎<br /> Image:Lotus 4.jpg|Disributed by Lotus Garages in white Lotus boxes.<br /> Image:Lotus 2.jpg|Sold By Lotus cars as a toy<br /> Image:Lotus 1.jpg|unable to ascertain why to this box, possibly given to Lotus employees<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> There was a final quirk, Cars given to Lotus employees in shell boxes...<br /> <br /> <br /> IIRC the following colours were avilable from Lotus until 1994:-<br /> <br /> Red, yellow, blue,, Green, Black, white<br /> <br /> <br /> Yellow Lotus dealer version LOTPR00300<br /> Lotus dealer version LOTPR00301<br /> Lotus dealer version LOTPR00302<br /> Green Lotus dealer version LOTPR00303<br /> <br /> == Scale Model Technical Services ==<br /> <br /> The precision model cars listed in the catalogue from [http://www.smtsmodels.demon.co.uk/ SMTS]are manufactured from white meal with resin, photo-etched and plated parts to form 1:43 scale collectors cars. All are individually hand built and finished in authentic colours and decals. Models are also available in kit form, ready to paint and assemble. 1:24 scale models are listed separately.<br /> <br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> Image:SMTS BLUE.jpg<br /> Image:SMTS_MODEL.jpg<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;‎<br /> <br /> == The Hasbro 1/15 scale model ==<br /> <br /> A rare item indeed. This a direct copy by Hasbro of a 1989 to 1994 Lotus Elan SE M100, which was the car driven by James Bond Jr. in a short lived comic book series and TV show. It is over 11 inches long, six inches wide and 3 inches tall. Just like the James Bond Aston Martin, this little red Lotus has plenty of toys that blend into the car without overtaking the obvious Elan lines. The features include pop-out front guns and a saw blade battering ram, pull out hub cap shredder blades, a spring action ejector seat (the seats match the real car styling), a rear spoiler that flips up to become a bullet proof shield, and the dual exhaust pipes convert to spring fired missles.<br /> <br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> Image:James_Bond_JR.jpg‎<br /> Image:James_bond_jr_car_2.jpg‎<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> == ERTL Model ==<br /> <br /> [[Image:James_Bond_JR_1.jpg|thumb|left|ERTL ‎James Bond Jr Model]]<br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;<br /> <br /> == The Kenner 1/15 scale model ==<br /> <br /> Another rare item. This a direct copy by Kenner a trademark of Tonka Corporation, a subsidiary of Hasbro of a 1989 to 1994 Lotus Elan SE M100 which was the car driven by Jim Carrey's character from the movie The Mask. The toy is very large, I guessed at the 1/15 scale. It is over 12 inches long, six inches wide and 3 inches tall. The car is yellow and the decals are optional. The features include pop-up front jaws, pull out hub cap shredder blades, a spring action ejector seat (the seats match the real car styling), and the dual exhaust pipes convert to spring fired missles.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Mask lotus.jpg|thumb|left]]<br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;<br /> <br /> == Pattos Place ==<br /> <br /> Pattos Place is a one-man operation located in Sydney, Australia, manufacturing slot and model cars to various scales.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Body13290elanm100.jpg|thumb|left|1/32 Lexane Model]]<br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;<br /> <br /> == The LOTUSELANCENTRAL Model ==<br /> <br /> This [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10550&amp;highlight=models/ model] is still in the early planning stages.<br /> <br /> == Similar Models ==<br /> <br /> [[Image:Kia.jpg|thumb|left|The Kia Elan as seen on Ebay]]<br /> &lt;br style=&quot;clear:both;&quot;/&gt;<br /> <br /> == Custom Paint Job ==<br /> <br /> By [[User:Ekapol|Ekapol]]<br /> <br /> Bored? Need an Elan fix? You could spent few hours playing with repainting, waxing, detailing, etc. The one I have comes from Shell Sportscar Collection series. <br /> <br /> &lt;gallery Caption=&quot;Custom Paint Job&quot;&gt;<br /> Image:model1.jpg|Here is the &quot;before&quot; shot of my 1st 1/36 Elan (around 3 inches). <br /> Image:model2.jpg|My &quot;after&quot; shot<br /> Image:model3.jpg|&quot;before&quot; w/ Coke can shifter <br /> Image:model4.jpg|&quot;after&quot; With side mirror and NOS switch<br /> Image:model5.jpg|Added yellow interior trim..<br /> Image:model6.jpg|Turn signal lights, and Lotus wheel caps<br /> Image:model7.jpg<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> ==See also==<br /> * [[M100 Editions]]<br /> * [http://www.lotusdriversguide.com/Modelcars/elanM100.php A bit more information]<br /> * [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7734&amp;postdays=0&amp;postorder=asc&amp;start=20 LEC thread link] about Model Elans.</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Slowest_Response_to_a_question 2010-07-25T10:25:10Z

<p>Elan SE: New page: http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&amp;t=6529&amp;p=231179#p231165</p> <hr /> <div>http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=32&amp;t=6529&amp;p=231179#p231165</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Light_Actuator_Module 2010-07-10T14:48:36Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Sourcing a replacement item */</p> <hr /> <div>== Background ==<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&amp;t=17514 Lotus Elan Central]<br /> <br /> == Sourcing a replacement item ==<br /> <br /> Lotus Part Number A100M6027F <br /> <br /> I was reading the above thread through and thought it didn't really answer the question, so I thought I do a bit of research.<br /> <br /> I Removed my Headlight Actuator Module off my 89' Elan and found the following General Motors Part number on the back 16509097<br /> <br /> So a quick LEC search showed up nothing, but then an internet search showed up two things [http://forums.aaca.org/f116/need-headlight-actuator-module-138948.html AACA]and [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/archived/messageboard/october99mb.html The old LEC board]<br /> <br /> == Here are the extracts, just incase the boards disappear for ever ==<br /> <br /> Oct 16, 1999 - 18:20 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp Pod Control Module <br /> Message: I've done some research and talked to a few GM Parts guys who helped cross-reference the now-defunct part #16509097(from sticker on my bad control module); one guy told me all Firebirds and Fiero's use the same module; another x-ref'd the number to the current active part#16525685 and concurred that they all used the same thing. Lotus wanted $186 for this module, Pontiac $140-173 depending on part. I went to the local junkyard...oops I mean &quot;auto recycler&quot;...and paid $10 for one from a '94 Firebird that lost a one-punch battle with a phone pole. It had part #16521278 on the outside sticker. as the outside case was pretty crappy, I popped it open and re-used my Lotus case; the circuit board was quite different(less components, only 1 IC chip and what appeared to be the same relay). I also got the e-mail address thru my Lotus Ltd contacts of an engineer at GM Detroit who worked on the M100 project....I will contact him and ask that he check out this site and contribute any insights he may have. By the way....problem solved! the Pontiac part works just fine...if I have any subsequent problems related to this I will post them here. How about that &quot;Parts Cross-Reference &quot; page Doug? Please feel free to add this info<br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 13:23 - From: charlie<br /> Title: on a roll. headlamp pod. <br /> Message: the headlamp pod just seems to be a delay module to stop the user oscillating the headlamp motors too much, I know there was a design change that stopped some sort of dazzle when the lamps were popping up in earlier models that's possibly why the circuit is different. the relays control the lift motors it seems. I doubt they contain any esoteric parts. Like I said before I'd really like to take apart the busted one you have Dan. email me about it if you've still got it and don't mind giving it up. <br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 15:30 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp control module <br /> Message: Charlie -- shoot me you address in an e-mail to &quot;L23S10@AOL.COM&quot; and I'll send you the busted part(if I can get it away from my 6 yr-old's Star Wars play area -- he thinks it's cool! Maybe he's got a future....I've had 2 people tell me he's a dead ringer for Anniken -- M100 Pod Racer?) Lotus part has a bunch more resistors/capacitors and 2 IC chips on it...the '94 Pontiac part was considerably simpler. I believe the circuits are designed to swap hot &amp; ground to the headlamp motors and sense when they've reached full throw, then shut off. I'm not sure how much repair effort is warranted if you can grab one from the bone yard for $10, but I'd be interested in your findings. Dan <br /> [/quote]<br /> <br /> If thats the case I think these are the same as ours [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/index.php?cPath=35&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c Top Downsolutions] and at sub £40.00 not too bad but not sure about shipping to the UK.<br /> or it could be dirty contacts.<br /> <br /> == So by piecing all the bitz together ==<br /> <br /> I guess this is first choice...<br /> <br /> [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=138&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c GM 16525685]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Olds: Toronado/Trofeo (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Firebird (1990-2002), <br /> <br /> Sunbird (1990-1994) <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> And this could be another...<br /> <br /> [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=119&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c GM 16505400]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1988-1989) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Fiero (1987-88), Firebird (1987-89), Sunbird (1988-89) <br /> <br /> Warning<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module: The headlight control module is the same one in the Pontiac Firebird/Trans Am. It was rumored that this module was also in the Fiero/Sunbird. The module looks exactly the same in the Fiero/Sunbird. Upon opening up examples from both the Fiero/Sunbird, the pin-out is the same but the electronic connections are incompatible. It was not until I had my hands on a '92 Firebird module that the headlights worked. Dan had also used one from a '93 Firebird. Also, in investigating this problem, I visited the Firebird usenet groups. This module is prone to burn-out. (replacement cost new - $200) So, while Dan and I are the first, I do not believe we will be the only ones. Be warned!! The module is 5&quot;x5&quot;, black and has one 4 wire plug on the left and a 5 wire plug on the right. Also, the module has the word &quot;GUIDE&quot; written on its top. On the Elan, while looking at the engine bay, the module sits on the left hand side of the firewall. On the Firebird, the module sits either next to the master cylinder or near the left headlight. --Scott<br /> <br /> On the '93 Trans Am Firebird I grabbed mine from, the module was below and behind the LH Headlight pod -- you have to look close to spot it. --Dan<br /> <br /> <br /> So Hopefully everything has been pieced together.</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Light_Actuator_Module 2010-07-10T14:16:20Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Here are the extracts, just incase the boards disappear for ever */</p> <hr /> <div>== Background ==<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&amp;t=17514 Lotus Elan Central]<br /> <br /> == Sourcing a replacement item ==<br /> <br /> I was reading the above thread through and thought it didn't really answer the question, so I thought I do a bit of research.<br /> <br /> I Removed my Headlight Actuator Module off my 89' Elan and found the following General Motors Part number on the back 16509097<br /> <br /> So a quick LEC search showed up nothing, but then an internet search showed up two things [http://forums.aaca.org/f116/need-headlight-actuator-module-138948.html AACA]and [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/archived/messageboard/october99mb.html The old LEC board]<br /> <br /> == Here are the extracts, just incase the boards disappear for ever ==<br /> <br /> Oct 16, 1999 - 18:20 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp Pod Control Module <br /> Message: I've done some research and talked to a few GM Parts guys who helped cross-reference the now-defunct part #16509097(from sticker on my bad control module); one guy told me all Firebirds and Fiero's use the same module; another x-ref'd the number to the current active part#16525685 and concurred that they all used the same thing. Lotus wanted $186 for this module, Pontiac $140-173 depending on part. I went to the local junkyard...oops I mean &quot;auto recycler&quot;...and paid $10 for one from a '94 Firebird that lost a one-punch battle with a phone pole. It had part #16521278 on the outside sticker. as the outside case was pretty crappy, I popped it open and re-used my Lotus case; the circuit board was quite different(less components, only 1 IC chip and what appeared to be the same relay). I also got the e-mail address thru my Lotus Ltd contacts of an engineer at GM Detroit who worked on the M100 project....I will contact him and ask that he check out this site and contribute any insights he may have. By the way....problem solved! the Pontiac part works just fine...if I have any subsequent problems related to this I will post them here. How about that &quot;Parts Cross-Reference &quot; page Doug? Please feel free to add this info<br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 13:23 - From: charlie<br /> Title: on a roll. headlamp pod. <br /> Message: the headlamp pod just seems to be a delay module to stop the user oscillating the headlamp motors too much, I know there was a design change that stopped some sort of dazzle when the lamps were popping up in earlier models that's possibly why the circuit is different. the relays control the lift motors it seems. I doubt they contain any esoteric parts. Like I said before I'd really like to take apart the busted one you have Dan. email me about it if you've still got it and don't mind giving it up. <br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 15:30 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp control module <br /> Message: Charlie -- shoot me you address in an e-mail to &quot;L23S10@AOL.COM&quot; and I'll send you the busted part(if I can get it away from my 6 yr-old's Star Wars play area -- he thinks it's cool! Maybe he's got a future....I've had 2 people tell me he's a dead ringer for Anniken -- M100 Pod Racer?) Lotus part has a bunch more resistors/capacitors and 2 IC chips on it...the '94 Pontiac part was considerably simpler. I believe the circuits are designed to swap hot &amp; ground to the headlamp motors and sense when they've reached full throw, then shut off. I'm not sure how much repair effort is warranted if you can grab one from the bone yard for $10, but I'd be interested in your findings. Dan <br /> [/quote]<br /> <br /> If thats the case I think these are the same as ours [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/index.php?cPath=35&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c Top Downsolutions] and at sub £40.00 not too bad but not sure about shipping to the UK.<br /> or it could be dirty contacts.<br /> <br /> == So by piecing all the bitz together ==<br /> <br /> I guess this is first choice...<br /> <br /> [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=138&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c GM 16525685]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Olds: Toronado/Trofeo (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Firebird (1990-2002), <br /> <br /> Sunbird (1990-1994) <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> And this could be another...<br /> <br /> [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=119&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c GM 16505400]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1988-1989) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Fiero (1987-88), Firebird (1987-89), Sunbird (1988-89) <br /> <br /> Warning<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module: The headlight control module is the same one in the Pontiac Firebird/Trans Am. It was rumored that this module was also in the Fiero/Sunbird. The module looks exactly the same in the Fiero/Sunbird. Upon opening up examples from both the Fiero/Sunbird, the pin-out is the same but the electronic connections are incompatible. It was not until I had my hands on a '92 Firebird module that the headlights worked. Dan had also used one from a '93 Firebird. Also, in investigating this problem, I visited the Firebird usenet groups. This module is prone to burn-out. (replacement cost new - $200) So, while Dan and I are the first, I do not believe we will be the only ones. Be warned!! The module is 5&quot;x5&quot;, black and has one 4 wire plug on the left and a 5 wire plug on the right. Also, the module has the word &quot;GUIDE&quot; written on its top. On the Elan, while looking at the engine bay, the module sits on the left hand side of the firewall. On the Firebird, the module sits either next to the master cylinder or near the left headlight. --Scott<br /> <br /> On the '93 Trans Am Firebird I grabbed mine from, the module was below and behind the LH Headlight pod -- you have to look close to spot it. --Dan<br /> <br /> <br /> So Hopefully everything has been pieced together.</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Light_Actuator_Module 2010-07-10T14:15:08Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Background */</p> <hr /> <div>== Background ==<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&amp;t=17514 Lotus Elan Central]<br /> <br /> == Sourcing a replacement item ==<br /> <br /> I was reading the above thread through and thought it didn't really answer the question, so I thought I do a bit of research.<br /> <br /> I Removed my Headlight Actuator Module off my 89' Elan and found the following General Motors Part number on the back 16509097<br /> <br /> So a quick LEC search showed up nothing, but then an internet search showed up two things [http://forums.aaca.org/f116/need-headlight-actuator-module-138948.html AACA]and [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/archived/messageboard/october99mb.html The old LEC board]<br /> <br /> == Here are the extracts, just incase the boards disappear for ever ==<br /> <br /> Oct 16, 1999 - 18:20 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp Pod Control Module <br /> Message: I've done some research and talked to a few GM Parts guys who helped cross-reference the now-defunct part #16509097(from sticker on my bad control module); one guy told me all Firebirds and Fiero's use the same module; another x-ref'd the number to the current active part#16525685 and concurred that they all used the same thing. Lotus wanted $186 for this module, Pontiac $140-173 depending on part. I went to the local junkyard...oops I mean &quot;auto recycler&quot;...and paid $10 for one from a '94 Firebird that lost a one-punch battle with a phone pole. It had part #16521278 on the outside sticker. as the outside case was pretty crappy, I popped it open and re-used my Lotus case; the circuit board was quite different(less components, only 1 IC chip and what appeared to be the same relay). I also got the e-mail address thru my Lotus Ltd contacts of an engineer at GM Detroit who worked on the M100 project....I will contact him and ask that he check out this site and contribute any insights he may have. By the way....problem solved! the Pontiac part works just fine...if I have any subsequent problems related to this I will post them here. How about that &quot;Parts Cross-Reference &quot; page Doug? Please feel free to add this info<br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 13:23 - From: charlie<br /> Title: on a roll. headlamp pod. <br /> Message: the headlamp pod just seems to be a delay module to stop the user oscillating the headlamp motors too much, I know there was a design change that stopped some sort of dazzle when the lamps were popping up in earlier models that's possibly why the circuit is different. the relays control the lift motors it seems. I doubt they contain any esoteric parts. Like I said before I'd really like to take apart the busted one you have Dan. email me about it if you've still got it and don't mind giving it up. <br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 15:30 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp control module <br /> Message: Charlie -- shoot me you address in an e-mail to &quot;L23S10@AOL.COM&quot; and I'll send you the busted part(if I can get it away from my 6 yr-old's Star Wars play area -- he thinks it's cool! Maybe he's got a future....I've had 2 people tell me he's a dead ringer for Anniken -- M100 Pod Racer?) Lotus part has a bunch more resistors/capacitors and 2 IC chips on it...the '94 Pontiac part was considerably simpler. I believe the circuits are designed to swap hot &amp; ground to the headlamp motors and sense when they've reached full throw, then shut off. I'm not sure how much repair effort is warranted if you can grab one from the bone yard for $10, but I'd be interested in your findings. Dan <br /> [/quote]<br /> <br /> [quote=&quot;bobbrown&quot;]If thats the case I think these are the same as ours [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/index.php?cPath=35&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c Top Downsolutions] and at sub £40.00 not too bad but not sure about shipping to the UK.<br /> or it could be dirty contacts<br /> Bob[/quote]<br /> <br /> So by piecing all the bitz together....<br /> <br /> I guess this is first choice...<br /> <br /> [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=138&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c GM 16525685]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Olds: Toronado/Trofeo (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Firebird (1990-2002), <br /> <br /> Sunbird (1990-1994) <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> And this could be another...<br /> <br /> [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=119&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c GM 16505400]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1988-1989) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Fiero (1987-88), Firebird (1987-89), Sunbird (1988-89) <br /> <br /> Warning<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module: The headlight control module is the same one in the Pontiac Firebird/Trans Am. It was rumored that this module was also in the Fiero/Sunbird. The module looks exactly the same in the Fiero/Sunbird. Upon opening up examples from both the Fiero/Sunbird, the pin-out is the same but the electronic connections are incompatible. It was not until I had my hands on a '92 Firebird module that the headlights worked. Dan had also used one from a '93 Firebird. Also, in investigating this problem, I visited the Firebird usenet groups. This module is prone to burn-out. (replacement cost new - $200) So, while Dan and I are the first, I do not believe we will be the only ones. Be warned!! The module is 5&quot;x5&quot;, black and has one 4 wire plug on the left and a 5 wire plug on the right. Also, the module has the word &quot;GUIDE&quot; written on its top. On the Elan, while looking at the engine bay, the module sits on the left hand side of the firewall. On the Firebird, the module sits either next to the master cylinder or near the left headlight. --Scott<br /> <br /> On the '93 Trans Am Firebird I grabbed mine from, the module was below and behind the LH Headlight pod -- you have to look close to spot it. --Dan<br /> <br /> <br /> So Hopefully everything has been pieced together.</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Light_Actuator_Module 2010-07-10T14:10:13Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Background */</p> <hr /> <div>== Background ==<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&amp;t=17514 Lotus Elan Central]<br /> <br /> I was reding this through and thought it didn't really answer the question, so I thought I do a bit of research.<br /> <br /> I pulled the Headlight Actuator Module off the 89' Elan and found this GM Part number on the back 16509097<br /> <br /> So a quick LEC search showed up nothing, but then an internet search showed up two things [http://forums.aaca.org/f116/need-headlight-actuator-module-138948.html AACA]and [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/archived/messageboard/october99mb.html The old LEC board]<br /> <br /> Oct 16, 1999 - 18:20 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp Pod Control Module <br /> Message: I've done some research and talked to a few GM Parts guys who helped cross-reference the now-defunct part #16509097(from sticker on my bad control module); one guy told me all Firebirds and Fiero's use the same module; another x-ref'd the number to the current active part#16525685 and concurred that they all used the same thing. Lotus wanted $186 for this module, Pontiac $140-173 depending on part. I went to the local junkyard...oops I mean &quot;auto recycler&quot;...and paid $10 for one from a '94 Firebird that lost a one-punch battle with a phone pole. It had part #16521278 on the outside sticker. as the outside case was pretty crappy, I popped it open and re-used my Lotus case; the circuit board was quite different(less components, only 1 IC chip and what appeared to be the same relay). I also got the e-mail address thru my Lotus Ltd contacts of an engineer at GM Detroit who worked on the M100 project....I will contact him and ask that he check out this site and contribute any insights he may have. By the way....problem solved! the Pontiac part works just fine...if I have any subsequent problems related to this I will post them here. How about that &quot;Parts Cross-Reference &quot; page Doug? Please feel free to add this info<br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 13:23 - From: charlie<br /> Title: on a roll. headlamp pod. <br /> Message: the headlamp pod just seems to be a delay module to stop the user oscillating the headlamp motors too much, I know there was a design change that stopped some sort of dazzle when the lamps were popping up in earlier models that's possibly why the circuit is different. the relays control the lift motors it seems. I doubt they contain any esoteric parts. Like I said before I'd really like to take apart the busted one you have Dan. email me about it if you've still got it and don't mind giving it up. <br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 15:30 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp control module <br /> Message: Charlie -- shoot me you address in an e-mail to &quot;L23S10@AOL.COM&quot; and I'll send you the busted part(if I can get it away from my 6 yr-old's Star Wars play area -- he thinks it's cool! Maybe he's got a future....I've had 2 people tell me he's a dead ringer for Anniken -- M100 Pod Racer?) Lotus part has a bunch more resistors/capacitors and 2 IC chips on it...the '94 Pontiac part was considerably simpler. I believe the circuits are designed to swap hot &amp; ground to the headlamp motors and sense when they've reached full throw, then shut off. I'm not sure how much repair effort is warranted if you can grab one from the bone yard for $10, but I'd be interested in your findings. Dan <br /> [/quote]<br /> <br /> [quote=&quot;bobbrown&quot;]If thats the case I think these are the same as ours [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/index.php?cPath=35&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c Top Downsolutions] and at sub £40.00 not too bad but not sure about shipping to the UK.<br /> or it could be dirty contacts<br /> Bob[/quote]<br /> <br /> So by piecing all the bitz together....<br /> <br /> I guess this is first choice...<br /> <br /> [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=138&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c GM 16525685]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Olds: Toronado/Trofeo (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Firebird (1990-2002), <br /> <br /> Sunbird (1990-1994) <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> And this could be another...<br /> <br /> [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=119&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c GM 16505400]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1988-1989) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Fiero (1987-88), Firebird (1987-89), Sunbird (1988-89) <br /> <br /> Warning<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module: The headlight control module is the same one in the Pontiac Firebird/Trans Am. It was rumored that this module was also in the Fiero/Sunbird. The module looks exactly the same in the Fiero/Sunbird. Upon opening up examples from both the Fiero/Sunbird, the pin-out is the same but the electronic connections are incompatible. It was not until I had my hands on a '92 Firebird module that the headlights worked. Dan had also used one from a '93 Firebird. Also, in investigating this problem, I visited the Firebird usenet groups. This module is prone to burn-out. (replacement cost new - $200) So, while Dan and I are the first, I do not believe we will be the only ones. Be warned!! The module is 5&quot;x5&quot;, black and has one 4 wire plug on the left and a 5 wire plug on the right. Also, the module has the word &quot;GUIDE&quot; written on its top. On the Elan, while looking at the engine bay, the module sits on the left hand side of the firewall. On the Firebird, the module sits either next to the master cylinder or near the left headlight. --Scott<br /> <br /> On the '93 Trans Am Firebird I grabbed mine from, the module was below and behind the LH Headlight pod -- you have to look close to spot it. --Dan<br /> <br /> <br /> So Hopefully everything has been pieced together.</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Light_Actuator_Module 2010-07-10T14:08:38Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Background */</p> <hr /> <div>== Background ==<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&amp;t=17514 Lotus Elan Central]<br /> <br /> I was reding this through and thought it didn't really answer the question, so I thought I do a bit of research.<br /> <br /> I pulled the Headlight Actuator Module off the 89' Elan and found this GM Part number on the back 16509097<br /> <br /> So a quick LEC search showed up nothing, but then an internet search showed up two things [http://forums.aaca.org/f116/need-headlight-actuator-module-138948.html AACA]and [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/archived/messageboard/october99mb.html The old LEC board]<br /> <br /> Oct 16, 1999 - 18:20 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp Pod Control Module <br /> Message: I've done some research and talked to a few GM Parts guys who helped cross-reference the now-defunct part #16509097(from sticker on my bad control module); one guy told me all Firebirds and Fiero's use the same module; another x-ref'd the number to the current active part#16525685 and concurred that they all used the same thing. Lotus wanted $186 for this module, Pontiac $140-173 depending on part. I went to the local junkyard...oops I mean &quot;auto recycler&quot;...and paid $10 for one from a '94 Firebird that lost a one-punch battle with a phone pole. It had part #16521278 on the outside sticker. as the outside case was pretty crappy, I popped it open and re-used my Lotus case; the circuit board was quite different(less components, only 1 IC chip and what appeared to be the same relay). I also got the e-mail address thru my Lotus Ltd contacts of an engineer at GM Detroit who worked on the M100 project....I will contact him and ask that he check out this site and contribute any insights he may have. By the way....problem solved! the Pontiac part works just fine...if I have any subsequent problems related to this I will post them here. How about that &quot;Parts Cross-Reference &quot; page Doug? Please feel free to add this info<br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 13:23 - From: charlie<br /> Title: on a roll. headlamp pod. <br /> Message: the headlamp pod just seems to be a delay module to stop the user oscillating the headlamp motors too much, I know there was a design change that stopped some sort of dazzle when the lamps were popping up in earlier models that's possibly why the circuit is different. the relays control the lift motors it seems. I doubt they contain any esoteric parts. Like I said before I'd really like to take apart the busted one you have Dan. email me about it if you've still got it and don't mind giving it up. <br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 15:30 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp control module <br /> Message: Charlie -- shoot me you address in an e-mail to &quot;L23S10@AOL.COM&quot; and I'll send you the busted part(if I can get it away from my 6 yr-old's Star Wars play area -- he thinks it's cool! Maybe he's got a future....I've had 2 people tell me he's a dead ringer for Anniken -- M100 Pod Racer?) Lotus part has a bunch more resistors/capacitors and 2 IC chips on it...the '94 Pontiac part was considerably simpler. I believe the circuits are designed to swap hot &amp; ground to the headlamp motors and sense when they've reached full throw, then shut off. I'm not sure how much repair effort is warranted if you can grab one from the bone yard for $10, but I'd be interested in your findings. Dan <br /> [/quote]<br /> <br /> [quote=&quot;bobbrown&quot;]If thats the case I think these are the same as ours [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/index.php?cPath=35&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c Top Downsolutions] and at sub £40.00 not too bad but not sure about shipping to the UK.<br /> or it could be dirty contacts<br /> Bob[/quote]<br /> <br /> So by piecing all the bitz together....<br /> <br /> I guess this is first choice...<br /> <br /> [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=138&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c GM 16525685]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Olds: Toronado/Trofeo (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Firebird (1990-2002), <br /> <br /> Sunbird (1990-1994) <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> And this could be another...<br /> <br /> [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=119&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c GM 16505400]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1988-1989) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Fiero (1987-88), Firebird (1987-89), Sunbird (1988-89) <br /> <br /> [size=200]Warning[/size],<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module: The headlight control module is the same one in the Pontiac Firebird/Trans Am. It was rumored that this module was also in the Fiero/Sunbird. The module looks exactly the same in the Fiero/Sunbird. Upon opening up examples from both the Fiero/Sunbird, the pin-out is the same but the electronic connections are incompatible. It was not until I had my hands on a '92 Firebird module that the headlights worked. Dan had also used one from a '93 Firebird. Also, in investigating this problem, I visited the Firebird usenet groups. This module is prone to burn-out. (replacement cost new - $200) So, while Dan and I are the first, I do not believe we will be the only ones. Be warned!! The module is 5&quot;x5&quot;, black and has one 4 wire plug on the left and a 5 wire plug on the right. Also, the module has the word &quot;GUIDE&quot; written on its top. On the Elan, while looking at the engine bay, the module sits on the left hand side of the firewall. On the Firebird, the module sits either next to the master cylinder or near the left headlight. --Scott<br /> <br /> On the '93 Trans Am Firebird I grabbed mine from, the module was below and behind the LH Headlight pod -- you have to look close to spot it. --Dan<br /> <br /> <br /> So Hopefully everything has been pieced together.</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Light_Actuator_Module 2010-07-10T14:08:04Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Background */</p> <hr /> <div>== Background ==<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&amp;t=17514 Lotus Elan Central]<br /> <br /> I was reding this through and thought it didn't really answer the question, so I thought I do a bit of research.<br /> <br /> I pulled the Headlight Actuator Module off the 89' Elan and found this GM Part number on the back 16509097<br /> <br /> So a quick LEC search showed up nothing, but then an internet search showed up two things [http://forums.aaca.org/f116/need-headlight-actuator-module-138948.html AACA]and [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/archived/messageboard/october99mb.html The old LEC board]<br /> <br /> Oct 16, 1999 - 18:20 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp Pod Control Module <br /> Message: I've done some research and talked to a few GM Parts guys who helped cross-reference the now-defunct part #16509097(from sticker on my bad control module); one guy told me all Firebirds and Fiero's use the same module; another x-ref'd the number to the current active part#16525685 and concurred that they all used the same thing. Lotus wanted $186 for this module, Pontiac $140-173 depending on part. I went to the local junkyard...oops I mean &quot;auto recycler&quot;...and paid $10 for one from a '94 Firebird that lost a one-punch battle with a phone pole. It had part #16521278 on the outside sticker. as the outside case was pretty crappy, I popped it open and re-used my Lotus case; the circuit board was quite different(less components, only 1 IC chip and what appeared to be the same relay). I also got the e-mail address thru my Lotus Ltd contacts of an engineer at GM Detroit who worked on the M100 project....I will contact him and ask that he check out this site and contribute any insights he may have. By the way....problem solved! the Pontiac part works just fine...if I have any subsequent problems related to this I will post them here. How about that &quot;Parts Cross-Reference &quot; page Doug? Please feel free to add this info<br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 13:23 - From: charlie<br /> Title: on a roll. headlamp pod. <br /> Message: the headlamp pod just seems to be a delay module to stop the user oscillating the headlamp motors too much, I know there was a design change that stopped some sort of dazzle when the lamps were popping up in earlier models that's possibly why the circuit is different. the relays control the lift motors it seems. I doubt they contain any esoteric parts. Like I said before I'd really like to take apart the busted one you have Dan. email me about it if you've still got it and don't mind giving it up. <br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 15:30 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp control module <br /> Message: Charlie -- shoot me you address in an e-mail to &quot;L23S10@AOL.COM&quot; and I'll send you the busted part(if I can get it away from my 6 yr-old's Star Wars play area -- he thinks it's cool! Maybe he's got a future....I've had 2 people tell me he's a dead ringer for Anniken -- M100 Pod Racer?) Lotus part has a bunch more resistors/capacitors and 2 IC chips on it...the '94 Pontiac part was considerably simpler. I believe the circuits are designed to swap hot &amp; ground to the headlamp motors and sense when they've reached full throw, then shut off. I'm not sure how much repair effort is warranted if you can grab one from the bone yard for $10, but I'd be interested in your findings. Dan <br /> [/quote]<br /> <br /> [quote=&quot;bobbrown&quot;]If thats the case I think these are the same as ours [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/index.php?cPath=35&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c Top Downsolutions] and at sub £40.00 not too bad but not sure about shipping to the UK.<br /> or it could be dirty contacts<br /> Bob[/quote]<br /> <br /> So by piecing all the bitz together....<br /> <br /> I guess this is first choice...<br /> <br /> [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=138&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c GM 16525685]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Olds: Toronado/Trofeo (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Firebird (1990-2002), <br /> <br /> Sunbird (1990-1994) <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> And this could be another...<br /> <br /> [url=http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=119&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c GM 16505400]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1988-1989) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Fiero (1987-88), Firebird (1987-89), Sunbird (1988-89) <br /> <br /> [size=200]Warning[/size],<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module: The headlight control module is the same one in the Pontiac Firebird/Trans Am. It was rumored that this module was also in the Fiero/Sunbird. The module looks exactly the same in the Fiero/Sunbird. Upon opening up examples from both the Fiero/Sunbird, the pin-out is the same but the electronic connections are incompatible. It was not until I had my hands on a '92 Firebird module that the headlights worked. Dan had also used one from a '93 Firebird. Also, in investigating this problem, I visited the Firebird usenet groups. This module is prone to burn-out. (replacement cost new - $200) So, while Dan and I are the first, I do not believe we will be the only ones. Be warned!! The module is 5&quot;x5&quot;, black and has one 4 wire plug on the left and a 5 wire plug on the right. Also, the module has the word &quot;GUIDE&quot; written on its top. On the Elan, while looking at the engine bay, the module sits on the left hand side of the firewall. On the Firebird, the module sits either next to the master cylinder or near the left headlight. --Scott<br /> <br /> On the '93 Trans Am Firebird I grabbed mine from, the module was below and behind the LH Headlight pod -- you have to look close to spot it. --Dan<br /> <br /> <br /> So Hopefully everything has been pieced together.</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Light_Actuator_Module 2010-07-10T14:07:24Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Background */</p> <hr /> <div>== Background ==<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&amp;t=17514 Lotus Elan Central]<br /> <br /> I was reding this through and thought it didn't really answer the question, so I thought I do a bit of research.<br /> <br /> I pulled the Headlight Actuator Module off the 89' Elan and found this GM Part number on the back 16509097<br /> <br /> So a quick LEC search showed up nothing, but then an internet search showed up two things [http://forums.aaca.org/f116/need-headlight-actuator-module-138948.html AACA]and [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/archived/messageboard/october99mb.html The old LEC board]<br /> <br /> Oct 16, 1999 - 18:20 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp Pod Control Module <br /> Message: I've done some research and talked to a few GM Parts guys who helped cross-reference the now-defunct part #16509097(from sticker on my bad control module); one guy told me all Firebirds and Fiero's use the same module; another x-ref'd the number to the current active part#16525685 and concurred that they all used the same thing. Lotus wanted $186 for this module, Pontiac $140-173 depending on part. I went to the local junkyard...oops I mean &quot;auto recycler&quot;...and paid $10 for one from a '94 Firebird that lost a one-punch battle with a phone pole. It had part #16521278 on the outside sticker. as the outside case was pretty crappy, I popped it open and re-used my Lotus case; the circuit board was quite different(less components, only 1 IC chip and what appeared to be the same relay). I also got the e-mail address thru my Lotus Ltd contacts of an engineer at GM Detroit who worked on the M100 project....I will contact him and ask that he check out this site and contribute any insights he may have. By the way....problem solved! the Pontiac part works just fine...if I have any subsequent problems related to this I will post them here. How about that &quot;Parts Cross-Reference &quot; page Doug? Please feel free to add this info<br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 13:23 - From: charlie<br /> Title: on a roll. headlamp pod. <br /> Message: the headlamp pod just seems to be a delay module to stop the user oscillating the headlamp motors too much, I know there was a design change that stopped some sort of dazzle when the lamps were popping up in earlier models that's possibly why the circuit is different. the relays control the lift motors it seems. I doubt they contain any esoteric parts. Like I said before I'd really like to take apart the busted one you have Dan. email me about it if you've still got it and don't mind giving it up. <br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 15:30 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp control module <br /> Message: Charlie -- shoot me you address in an e-mail to &quot;L23S10@AOL.COM&quot; and I'll send you the busted part(if I can get it away from my 6 yr-old's Star Wars play area -- he thinks it's cool! Maybe he's got a future....I've had 2 people tell me he's a dead ringer for Anniken -- M100 Pod Racer?) Lotus part has a bunch more resistors/capacitors and 2 IC chips on it...the '94 Pontiac part was considerably simpler. I believe the circuits are designed to swap hot &amp; ground to the headlamp motors and sense when they've reached full throw, then shut off. I'm not sure how much repair effort is warranted if you can grab one from the bone yard for $10, but I'd be interested in your findings. Dan <br /> [/quote]<br /> <br /> [quote=&quot;bobbrown&quot;]If thats the case I think these are the same as ours [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/index.php?cPath=35&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c Top Downsolutions] and at sub £40.00 not too bad but not sure about shipping to the UK.<br /> or it could be dirty contacts<br /> Bob[/quote]<br /> <br /> So by piecing all the bitz together....<br /> <br /> I guess this is first choice...<br /> <br /> [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=138&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c GM 16525685]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Olds: Toronado/Trofeo (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Firebird (1990-2002), <br /> <br /> Sunbird (1990-1994) <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> And this could be another...<br /> <br /> [url=http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=119&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c GM 16505400]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1988-1989) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Fiero (1987-88), Firebird (1987-89), Sunbird (1988-89) <br /> <br /> [size=200]Warning[/size],<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module: The headlight control module is the same one in the Pontiac Firebird/Trans Am. It was rumored that this module was also in the Fiero/Sunbird. The module looks exactly the same in the Fiero/Sunbird. Upon opening up examples from both the Fiero/Sunbird, the pin-out is the same but the electronic connections are incompatible. It was not until I had my hands on a '92 Firebird module that the headlights worked. Dan had also used one from a '93 Firebird. Also, in investigating this problem, I visited the Firebird usenet groups. This module is prone to burn-out. (replacement cost new - $200) So, while Dan and I are the first, I do not believe we will be the only ones. Be warned!! The module is 5&quot;x5&quot;, black and has one 4 wire plug on the left and a 5 wire plug on the right. Also, the module has the word &quot;GUIDE&quot; written on its top. On the Elan, while looking at the engine bay, the module sits on the left hand side of the firewall. On the Firebird, the module sits either next to the master cylinder or near the left headlight. --Scott<br /> <br /> On the '93 Trans Am Firebird I grabbed mine from, the module was below and behind the LH Headlight pod -- you have to look close to spot it. --Dan<br /> <br /> <br /> So Hopefully everything has been pieced together.</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Light_Actuator_Module 2010-07-10T14:00:32Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Background */</p> <hr /> <div>== Background ==<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&amp;t=17514 Lotus Elan Central]<br /> <br /> I was reding this through and thought it didn't really answer the question, so I thought I do a bit of research.<br /> <br /> I pulled the Headlight Actuator Module off the 89' Elan and found this GM Part number on the back 16509097<br /> <br /> So a quick LEC search showed up nothing, but then an internet search showed up two things [http://forums.aaca.org/f116/need-headlight-actuator-module-138948.html AACA]and [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/archived/messageboard/october99mb.html The old LEC board]<br /> <br /> [quote]Oct 16, 1999 - 18:20 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp Pod Control Module <br /> Message: I've done some research and talked to a few GM Parts guys who helped cross-reference the now-defunct part #16509097(from sticker on my bad control module); one guy told me all Firebirds and Fiero's use the same module; another x-ref'd the number to the current active part#16525685 and concurred that they all used the same thing. Lotus wanted $186 for this module, Pontiac $140-173 depending on part. I went to the local junkyard...oops I mean &quot;auto recycler&quot;...and paid $10 for one from a '94 Firebird that lost a one-punch battle with a phone pole. It had part #16521278 on the outside sticker. as the outside case was pretty crappy, I popped it open and re-used my Lotus case; the circuit board was quite different(less components, only 1 IC chip and what appeared to be the same relay). I also got the e-mail address thru my Lotus Ltd contacts of an engineer at GM Detroit who worked on the M100 project....I will contact him and ask that he check out this site and contribute any insights he may have. By the way....problem solved! the Pontiac part works just fine...if I have any subsequent problems related to this I will post them here. How about that &quot;Parts Cross-Reference &quot; page Doug? Please feel free to add this info<br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 13:23 - From: charlie<br /> Title: on a roll. headlamp pod. <br /> Message: the headlamp pod just seems to be a delay module to stop the user oscillating the headlamp motors too much, I know there was a design change that stopped some sort of dazzle when the lamps were popping up in earlier models that's possibly why the circuit is different. the relays control the lift motors it seems. I doubt they contain any esoteric parts. Like I said before I'd really like to take apart the busted one you have Dan. email me about it if you've still got it and don't mind giving it up. <br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 15:30 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp control module <br /> Message: Charlie -- shoot me you address in an e-mail to &quot;L23S10@AOL.COM&quot; and I'll send you the busted part(if I can get it away from my 6 yr-old's Star Wars play area -- he thinks it's cool! Maybe he's got a future....I've had 2 people tell me he's a dead ringer for Anniken -- M100 Pod Racer?) Lotus part has a bunch more resistors/capacitors and 2 IC chips on it...the '94 Pontiac part was considerably simpler. I believe the circuits are designed to swap hot &amp; ground to the headlamp motors and sense when they've reached full throw, then shut off. I'm not sure how much repair effort is warranted if you can grab one from the bone yard for $10, but I'd be interested in your findings. Dan <br /> [/quote]<br /> <br /> [quote=&quot;bobbrown&quot;]If thats the case I think these are the same as ours [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/index.php?cPath=35&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c Top Downsolutions] and at sub £40.00 not too bad but not sure about shipping to the UK.<br /> or it could be dirty contacts<br /> Bob[/quote]<br /> <br /> So by piecing all the bitz together....<br /> <br /> I guess this is first choice...<br /> <br /> [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=138&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c GM 16525685]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Olds: Toronado/Trofeo (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Firebird (1990-2002), <br /> <br /> Sunbird (1990-1994) <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> And this could be another...<br /> <br /> [url=http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=119&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c GM 16505400]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1988-1989) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Fiero (1987-88), Firebird (1987-89), Sunbird (1988-89) <br /> <br /> [size=200]Warning[/size],<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module: The headlight control module is the same one in the Pontiac Firebird/Trans Am. It was rumored that this module was also in the Fiero/Sunbird. The module looks exactly the same in the Fiero/Sunbird. Upon opening up examples from both the Fiero/Sunbird, the pin-out is the same but the electronic connections are incompatible. It was not until I had my hands on a '92 Firebird module that the headlights worked. Dan had also used one from a '93 Firebird. Also, in investigating this problem, I visited the Firebird usenet groups. This module is prone to burn-out. (replacement cost new - $200) So, while Dan and I are the first, I do not believe we will be the only ones. Be warned!! The module is 5&quot;x5&quot;, black and has one 4 wire plug on the left and a 5 wire plug on the right. Also, the module has the word &quot;GUIDE&quot; written on its top. On the Elan, while looking at the engine bay, the module sits on the left hand side of the firewall. On the Firebird, the module sits either next to the master cylinder or near the left headlight. --Scott<br /> <br /> On the '93 Trans Am Firebird I grabbed mine from, the module was below and behind the LH Headlight pod -- you have to look close to spot it. --Dan<br /> <br /> <br /> So Hopefully everything has been pieced together.</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Light_Actuator_Module 2010-07-10T13:56:53Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Background */</p> <hr /> <div>== Background ==<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&amp;t=17514 Lotus Elan Central]<br /> <br /> I was reding this through and thought it didn't really answer the question, so I thought I do a bit of research.<br /> <br /> I pulled the Headlight Actuator Module off the 89' Elan and found this GM Part number on the back 16509097<br /> <br /> So a quick LEC search showed up nothing, but then an internet search showed up two things [http://forums.aaca.org/f116/need-headlight-actuator-module-138948.html AACA]and [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/archived/messageboard/october99mb.html The old LEC board]<br /> <br /> [quote]Oct 16, 1999 - 18:20 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp Pod Control Module <br /> Message: I've done some research and talked to a few GM Parts guys who helped cross-reference the now-defunct part #16509097(from sticker on my bad control module); one guy told me all Firebirds and Fiero's use the same module; another x-ref'd the number to the current active part#16525685 and concurred that they all used the same thing. Lotus wanted $186 for this module, Pontiac $140-173 depending on part. I went to the local junkyard...oops I mean &quot;auto recycler&quot;...and paid $10 for one from a '94 Firebird that lost a one-punch battle with a phone pole. It had part #16521278 on the outside sticker. as the outside case was pretty crappy, I popped it open and re-used my Lotus case; the circuit board was quite different(less components, only 1 IC chip and what appeared to be the same relay). I also got the e-mail address thru my Lotus Ltd contacts of an engineer at GM Detroit who worked on the M100 project....I will contact him and ask that he check out this site and contribute any insights he may have. By the way....problem solved! the Pontiac part works just fine...if I have any subsequent problems related to this I will post them here. How about that &quot;Parts Cross-Reference &quot; page Doug? Please feel free to add this info<br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 13:23 - From: charlie<br /> Title: on a roll. headlamp pod. <br /> Message: the headlamp pod just seems to be a delay module to stop the user oscillating the headlamp motors too much, I know there was a design change that stopped some sort of dazzle when the lamps were popping up in earlier models that's possibly why the circuit is different. the relays control the lift motors it seems. I doubt they contain any esoteric parts. Like I said before I'd really like to take apart the busted one you have Dan. email me about it if you've still got it and don't mind giving it up. <br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 15:30 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp control module <br /> Message: Charlie -- shoot me you address in an e-mail to &quot;L23S10@AOL.COM&quot; and I'll send you the busted part(if I can get it away from my 6 yr-old's Star Wars play area -- he thinks it's cool! Maybe he's got a future....I've had 2 people tell me he's a dead ringer for Anniken -- M100 Pod Racer?) Lotus part has a bunch more resistors/capacitors and 2 IC chips on it...the '94 Pontiac part was considerably simpler. I believe the circuits are designed to swap hot &amp; ground to the headlamp motors and sense when they've reached full throw, then shut off. I'm not sure how much repair effort is warranted if you can grab one from the bone yard for $10, but I'd be interested in your findings. Dan <br /> [/quote]<br /> <br /> [quote=&quot;bobbrown&quot;]If thats the case I think these are the same as ours http://www.top-downsolutions.com/index.php?cPath=35&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c and at sub £40.00 not too bad but not sure about shipping to the UK.<br /> or it could be dirty contacts<br /> Bob[/quote]<br /> <br /> So by piecing all the bitz together....<br /> <br /> I guess this is first choice...<br /> <br /> [http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=138&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c top-downsolutions]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Olds: Toronado/Trofeo (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Firebird (1990-2002), <br /> <br /> Sunbird (1990-1994) <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> And this could be another...<br /> <br /> [url=http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=119&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c]GM 16505400[/url]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1988-1989) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Fiero (1987-88), Firebird (1987-89), Sunbird (1988-89) <br /> <br /> [size=200]Warning[/size],<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module: The headlight control module is the same one in the Pontiac Firebird/Trans Am. It was rumored that this module was also in the Fiero/Sunbird. The module looks exactly the same in the Fiero/Sunbird. Upon opening up examples from both the Fiero/Sunbird, the pin-out is the same but the electronic connections are incompatible. It was not until I had my hands on a '92 Firebird module that the headlights worked. Dan had also used one from a '93 Firebird. Also, in investigating this problem, I visited the Firebird usenet groups. This module is prone to burn-out. (replacement cost new - $200) So, while Dan and I are the first, I do not believe we will be the only ones. Be warned!! The module is 5&quot;x5&quot;, black and has one 4 wire plug on the left and a 5 wire plug on the right. Also, the module has the word &quot;GUIDE&quot; written on its top. On the Elan, while looking at the engine bay, the module sits on the left hand side of the firewall. On the Firebird, the module sits either next to the master cylinder or near the left headlight. --Scott<br /> <br /> On the '93 Trans Am Firebird I grabbed mine from, the module was below and behind the LH Headlight pod -- you have to look close to spot it. --Dan<br /> <br /> <br /> So Hopefully everything has been pieced together.</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Light_Actuator_Module 2010-07-10T13:53:38Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Background */</p> <hr /> <div>== Background ==<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&amp;t=17514 Lotus Elan Central]<br /> <br /> I was reding this through and thought it didn't really answer the question, so I thought I do a bit of research.<br /> <br /> I pulled the Headlight Actuator Module off the 89' Elan and found this GM Part number on the back 16509097<br /> <br /> So a quick LEC search showed up nothing, but then an internet search showed up two things [http://forums.aaca.org/f116/need-headlight-actuator-module-138948.html AACA]and [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/archived/messageboard/october99mb.html The old LEC board]<br /> <br /> [quote]Oct 16, 1999 - 18:20 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp Pod Control Module <br /> Message: I've done some research and talked to a few GM Parts guys who helped cross-reference the now-defunct part #16509097(from sticker on my bad control module); one guy told me all Firebirds and Fiero's use the same module; another x-ref'd the number to the current active part#16525685 and concurred that they all used the same thing. Lotus wanted $186 for this module, Pontiac $140-173 depending on part. I went to the local junkyard...oops I mean &quot;auto recycler&quot;...and paid $10 for one from a '94 Firebird that lost a one-punch battle with a phone pole. It had part #16521278 on the outside sticker. as the outside case was pretty crappy, I popped it open and re-used my Lotus case; the circuit board was quite different(less components, only 1 IC chip and what appeared to be the same relay). I also got the e-mail address thru my Lotus Ltd contacts of an engineer at GM Detroit who worked on the M100 project....I will contact him and ask that he check out this site and contribute any insights he may have. By the way....problem solved! the Pontiac part works just fine...if I have any subsequent problems related to this I will post them here. How about that &quot;Parts Cross-Reference &quot; page Doug? Please feel free to add this info<br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 13:23 - From: charlie<br /> Title: on a roll. headlamp pod. <br /> Message: the headlamp pod just seems to be a delay module to stop the user oscillating the headlamp motors too much, I know there was a design change that stopped some sort of dazzle when the lamps were popping up in earlier models that's possibly why the circuit is different. the relays control the lift motors it seems. I doubt they contain any esoteric parts. Like I said before I'd really like to take apart the busted one you have Dan. email me about it if you've still got it and don't mind giving it up. <br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 15:30 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp control module <br /> Message: Charlie -- shoot me you address in an e-mail to &quot;L23S10@AOL.COM&quot; and I'll send you the busted part(if I can get it away from my 6 yr-old's Star Wars play area -- he thinks it's cool! Maybe he's got a future....I've had 2 people tell me he's a dead ringer for Anniken -- M100 Pod Racer?) Lotus part has a bunch more resistors/capacitors and 2 IC chips on it...the '94 Pontiac part was considerably simpler. I believe the circuits are designed to swap hot &amp; ground to the headlamp motors and sense when they've reached full throw, then shut off. I'm not sure how much repair effort is warranted if you can grab one from the bone yard for $10, but I'd be interested in your findings. Dan <br /> [/quote]<br /> <br /> [quote=&quot;bobbrown&quot;]If thats the case I think these are the same as ours http://www.top-downsolutions.com/index.php?cPath=35&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c and at sub £40.00 not too bad but not sure about shipping to the UK.<br /> or it could be dirty contacts<br /> Bob[/quote]<br /> <br /> So by piecing all the bitz together....<br /> <br /> I guess this is first choice...<br /> <br /> [url=http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=138&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c]GM 16525685[/url]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Olds: Toronado/Trofeo (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Firebird (1990-2002), <br /> <br /> Sunbird (1990-1994) <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> And this could be another...<br /> <br /> [url=http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=119&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c]GM 16505400[/url]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1988-1989) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Fiero (1987-88), Firebird (1987-89), Sunbird (1988-89) <br /> <br /> [size=200]Warning[/size],<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module: The headlight control module is the same one in the Pontiac Firebird/Trans Am. It was rumored that this module was also in the Fiero/Sunbird. The module looks exactly the same in the Fiero/Sunbird. Upon opening up examples from both the Fiero/Sunbird, the pin-out is the same but the electronic connections are incompatible. It was not until I had my hands on a '92 Firebird module that the headlights worked. Dan had also used one from a '93 Firebird. Also, in investigating this problem, I visited the Firebird usenet groups. This module is prone to burn-out. (replacement cost new - $200) So, while Dan and I are the first, I do not believe we will be the only ones. Be warned!! The module is 5&quot;x5&quot;, black and has one 4 wire plug on the left and a 5 wire plug on the right. Also, the module has the word &quot;GUIDE&quot; written on its top. On the Elan, while looking at the engine bay, the module sits on the left hand side of the firewall. On the Firebird, the module sits either next to the master cylinder or near the left headlight. --Scott<br /> <br /> On the '93 Trans Am Firebird I grabbed mine from, the module was below and behind the LH Headlight pod -- you have to look close to spot it. --Dan<br /> <br /> <br /> So Hopefully everything has been pieced together.</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Light_Actuator_Module 2010-07-10T13:47:53Z

<p>Elan SE: </p> <hr /> <div>== Background ==<br /> <br /> <br /> [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&amp;t=17514 Lotus Elan Central]<br /> <br /> I was reding this through and thought it didn't really answer the question, so I thought I do a bit of research.<br /> <br /> I pulled the Headlight Actuator Module off the 89' Elan and found this GM Part number on the back 16509097<br /> <br /> So a quick LEC search showed up nothing, but then an internet search showed up two things [url=http://forums.aaca.org/f116/need-headlight-actuator-module-138948.html]This[/url] and [url=http://www.lotuselancentral.com/archived/messageboard/october99mb.html]This[/url]<br /> <br /> [quote]Oct 16, 1999 - 18:20 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp Pod Control Module <br /> Message: I've done some research and talked to a few GM Parts guys who helped cross-reference the now-defunct part #16509097(from sticker on my bad control module); one guy told me all Firebirds and Fiero's use the same module; another x-ref'd the number to the current active part#16525685 and concurred that they all used the same thing. Lotus wanted $186 for this module, Pontiac $140-173 depending on part. I went to the local junkyard...oops I mean &quot;auto recycler&quot;...and paid $10 for one from a '94 Firebird that lost a one-punch battle with a phone pole. It had part #16521278 on the outside sticker. as the outside case was pretty crappy, I popped it open and re-used my Lotus case; the circuit board was quite different(less components, only 1 IC chip and what appeared to be the same relay). I also got the e-mail address thru my Lotus Ltd contacts of an engineer at GM Detroit who worked on the M100 project....I will contact him and ask that he check out this site and contribute any insights he may have. By the way....problem solved! the Pontiac part works just fine...if I have any subsequent problems related to this I will post them here. How about that &quot;Parts Cross-Reference &quot; page Doug? Please feel free to add this info<br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 13:23 - From: charlie<br /> Title: on a roll. headlamp pod. <br /> Message: the headlamp pod just seems to be a delay module to stop the user oscillating the headlamp motors too much, I know there was a design change that stopped some sort of dazzle when the lamps were popping up in earlier models that's possibly why the circuit is different. the relays control the lift motors it seems. I doubt they contain any esoteric parts. Like I said before I'd really like to take apart the busted one you have Dan. email me about it if you've still got it and don't mind giving it up. <br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 15:30 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp control module <br /> Message: Charlie -- shoot me you address in an e-mail to &quot;L23S10@AOL.COM&quot; and I'll send you the busted part(if I can get it away from my 6 yr-old's Star Wars play area -- he thinks it's cool! Maybe he's got a future....I've had 2 people tell me he's a dead ringer for Anniken -- M100 Pod Racer?) Lotus part has a bunch more resistors/capacitors and 2 IC chips on it...the '94 Pontiac part was considerably simpler. I believe the circuits are designed to swap hot &amp; ground to the headlamp motors and sense when they've reached full throw, then shut off. I'm not sure how much repair effort is warranted if you can grab one from the bone yard for $10, but I'd be interested in your findings. Dan <br /> [/quote]<br /> <br /> [quote=&quot;bobbrown&quot;]If thats the case I think these are the same as ours http://www.top-downsolutions.com/index.php?cPath=35&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c and at sub £40.00 not too bad but not sure about shipping to the UK.<br /> or it could be dirty contacts<br /> Bob[/quote]<br /> <br /> So by piecing all the bitz together....<br /> <br /> I guess this is first choice...<br /> <br /> [url=http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=138&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c]GM 16525685[/url]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Olds: Toronado/Trofeo (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Firebird (1990-2002), <br /> <br /> Sunbird (1990-1994) <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> And this could be another...<br /> <br /> [url=http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=119&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c]GM 16505400[/url]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1988-1989) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Fiero (1987-88), Firebird (1987-89), Sunbird (1988-89) <br /> <br /> [size=200]Warning[/size],<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module: The headlight control module is the same one in the Pontiac Firebird/Trans Am. It was rumored that this module was also in the Fiero/Sunbird. The module looks exactly the same in the Fiero/Sunbird. Upon opening up examples from both the Fiero/Sunbird, the pin-out is the same but the electronic connections are incompatible. It was not until I had my hands on a '92 Firebird module that the headlights worked. Dan had also used one from a '93 Firebird. Also, in investigating this problem, I visited the Firebird usenet groups. This module is prone to burn-out. (replacement cost new - $200) So, while Dan and I are the first, I do not believe we will be the only ones. Be warned!! The module is 5&quot;x5&quot;, black and has one 4 wire plug on the left and a 5 wire plug on the right. Also, the module has the word &quot;GUIDE&quot; written on its top. On the Elan, while looking at the engine bay, the module sits on the left hand side of the firewall. On the Firebird, the module sits either next to the master cylinder or near the left headlight. --Scott<br /> <br /> On the '93 Trans Am Firebird I grabbed mine from, the module was below and behind the LH Headlight pod -- you have to look close to spot it. --Dan<br /> <br /> <br /> So Hopefully everything has been pieced together.</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Light_Actuator_Module 2010-07-10T13:44:21Z

<p>Elan SE: </p> <hr /> <div>== Background ==<br /> <br /> http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&amp;t=17514<br /> <br /> I was looking at [url=http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&amp;t=16458]This[/url] thread and thought it didn't really answer the question, so I thought I do a bit of research.<br /> <br /> I pulled the Headlight Actuator Module off the 89' Elan and found this GM No on the back 16509097<br /> <br /> So a quick LEC search showed up nothing, but then an internet search showed up two things [url=http://forums.aaca.org/f116/need-headlight-actuator-module-138948.html]This[/url] and [url=http://www.lotuselancentral.com/archived/messageboard/october99mb.html]This[/url]<br /> <br /> [quote]Oct 16, 1999 - 18:20 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp Pod Control Module <br /> Message: I've done some research and talked to a few GM Parts guys who helped cross-reference the now-defunct part #16509097(from sticker on my bad control module); one guy told me all Firebirds and Fiero's use the same module; another x-ref'd the number to the current active part#16525685 and concurred that they all used the same thing. Lotus wanted $186 for this module, Pontiac $140-173 depending on part. I went to the local junkyard...oops I mean &quot;auto recycler&quot;...and paid $10 for one from a '94 Firebird that lost a one-punch battle with a phone pole. It had part #16521278 on the outside sticker. as the outside case was pretty crappy, I popped it open and re-used my Lotus case; the circuit board was quite different(less components, only 1 IC chip and what appeared to be the same relay). I also got the e-mail address thru my Lotus Ltd contacts of an engineer at GM Detroit who worked on the M100 project....I will contact him and ask that he check out this site and contribute any insights he may have. By the way....problem solved! the Pontiac part works just fine...if I have any subsequent problems related to this I will post them here. How about that &quot;Parts Cross-Reference &quot; page Doug? Please feel free to add this info<br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 13:23 - From: charlie<br /> Title: on a roll. headlamp pod. <br /> Message: the headlamp pod just seems to be a delay module to stop the user oscillating the headlamp motors too much, I know there was a design change that stopped some sort of dazzle when the lamps were popping up in earlier models that's possibly why the circuit is different. the relays control the lift motors it seems. I doubt they contain any esoteric parts. Like I said before I'd really like to take apart the busted one you have Dan. email me about it if you've still got it and don't mind giving it up. <br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 15:30 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp control module <br /> Message: Charlie -- shoot me you address in an e-mail to &quot;L23S10@AOL.COM&quot; and I'll send you the busted part(if I can get it away from my 6 yr-old's Star Wars play area -- he thinks it's cool! Maybe he's got a future....I've had 2 people tell me he's a dead ringer for Anniken -- M100 Pod Racer?) Lotus part has a bunch more resistors/capacitors and 2 IC chips on it...the '94 Pontiac part was considerably simpler. I believe the circuits are designed to swap hot &amp; ground to the headlamp motors and sense when they've reached full throw, then shut off. I'm not sure how much repair effort is warranted if you can grab one from the bone yard for $10, but I'd be interested in your findings. Dan <br /> [/quote]<br /> <br /> [quote=&quot;bobbrown&quot;]If thats the case I think these are the same as ours http://www.top-downsolutions.com/index.php?cPath=35&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c and at sub £40.00 not too bad but not sure about shipping to the UK.<br /> or it could be dirty contacts<br /> Bob[/quote]<br /> <br /> So by piecing all the bitz together....<br /> <br /> I guess this is first choice...<br /> <br /> [url=http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=138&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c]GM 16525685[/url]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Olds: Toronado/Trofeo (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Firebird (1990-2002), <br /> <br /> Sunbird (1990-1994) <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> And this could be another...<br /> <br /> [url=http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=119&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c]GM 16505400[/url]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1988-1989) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Fiero (1987-88), Firebird (1987-89), Sunbird (1988-89) <br /> <br /> [size=200]Warning[/size],<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module: The headlight control module is the same one in the Pontiac Firebird/Trans Am. It was rumored that this module was also in the Fiero/Sunbird. The module looks exactly the same in the Fiero/Sunbird. Upon opening up examples from both the Fiero/Sunbird, the pin-out is the same but the electronic connections are incompatible. It was not until I had my hands on a '92 Firebird module that the headlights worked. Dan had also used one from a '93 Firebird. Also, in investigating this problem, I visited the Firebird usenet groups. This module is prone to burn-out. (replacement cost new - $200) So, while Dan and I are the first, I do not believe we will be the only ones. Be warned!! The module is 5&quot;x5&quot;, black and has one 4 wire plug on the left and a 5 wire plug on the right. Also, the module has the word &quot;GUIDE&quot; written on its top. On the Elan, while looking at the engine bay, the module sits on the left hand side of the firewall. On the Firebird, the module sits either next to the master cylinder or near the left headlight. --Scott<br /> <br /> On the '93 Trans Am Firebird I grabbed mine from, the module was below and behind the LH Headlight pod -- you have to look close to spot it. --Dan<br /> <br /> <br /> So Hopefully everything has been pieced together.</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Light_Actuator_Module 2010-07-10T13:38:52Z

<p>Elan SE: New page: I was looking at [url=http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&amp;t=16458]This[/url] thread and thought it didn't really answer the question, so I thought I do a bit of research. ...</p> <hr /> <div>I was looking at [url=http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&amp;t=16458]This[/url] thread and thought it didn't really answer the question, so I thought I do a bit of research.<br /> <br /> I pulled the Headlight Actuator Module off the 89' Elan and found this GM No on the back 16509097<br /> <br /> So a quick LEC search showed up nothing, but then an internet search showed up two things [url=http://forums.aaca.org/f116/need-headlight-actuator-module-138948.html]This[/url] and [url=http://www.lotuselancentral.com/archived/messageboard/october99mb.html]This[/url]<br /> <br /> [quote]Oct 16, 1999 - 18:20 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp Pod Control Module <br /> Message: I've done some research and talked to a few GM Parts guys who helped cross-reference the now-defunct part #16509097(from sticker on my bad control module); one guy told me all Firebirds and Fiero's use the same module; another x-ref'd the number to the current active part#16525685 and concurred that they all used the same thing. Lotus wanted $186 for this module, Pontiac $140-173 depending on part. I went to the local junkyard...oops I mean &quot;auto recycler&quot;...and paid $10 for one from a '94 Firebird that lost a one-punch battle with a phone pole. It had part #16521278 on the outside sticker. as the outside case was pretty crappy, I popped it open and re-used my Lotus case; the circuit board was quite different(less components, only 1 IC chip and what appeared to be the same relay). I also got the e-mail address thru my Lotus Ltd contacts of an engineer at GM Detroit who worked on the M100 project....I will contact him and ask that he check out this site and contribute any insights he may have. By the way....problem solved! the Pontiac part works just fine...if I have any subsequent problems related to this I will post them here. How about that &quot;Parts Cross-Reference &quot; page Doug? Please feel free to add this info<br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 13:23 - From: charlie<br /> Title: on a roll. headlamp pod. <br /> Message: the headlamp pod just seems to be a delay module to stop the user oscillating the headlamp motors too much, I know there was a design change that stopped some sort of dazzle when the lamps were popping up in earlier models that's possibly why the circuit is different. the relays control the lift motors it seems. I doubt they contain any esoteric parts. Like I said before I'd really like to take apart the busted one you have Dan. email me about it if you've still got it and don't mind giving it up. <br /> <br /> <br /> Oct 18, 1999 - 15:30 - From: Dan<br /> Title: Headlamp control module <br /> Message: Charlie -- shoot me you address in an e-mail to &quot;L23S10@AOL.COM&quot; and I'll send you the busted part(if I can get it away from my 6 yr-old's Star Wars play area -- he thinks it's cool! Maybe he's got a future....I've had 2 people tell me he's a dead ringer for Anniken -- M100 Pod Racer?) Lotus part has a bunch more resistors/capacitors and 2 IC chips on it...the '94 Pontiac part was considerably simpler. I believe the circuits are designed to swap hot &amp; ground to the headlamp motors and sense when they've reached full throw, then shut off. I'm not sure how much repair effort is warranted if you can grab one from the bone yard for $10, but I'd be interested in your findings. Dan <br /> [/quote]<br /> <br /> [quote=&quot;bobbrown&quot;]If thats the case I think these are the same as ours http://www.top-downsolutions.com/index.php?cPath=35&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c and at sub £40.00 not too bad but not sure about shipping to the UK.<br /> or it could be dirty contacts<br /> Bob[/quote]<br /> <br /> So by piecing all the bitz together....<br /> <br /> I guess this is first choice...<br /> <br /> [url=http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=138&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c]GM 16525685[/url]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Olds: Toronado/Trofeo (1990-1992) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Firebird (1990-2002), <br /> <br /> Sunbird (1990-1994) <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> And this could be another...<br /> <br /> [url=http://www.top-downsolutions.com/product_info.php?cPath=35&amp;products_id=119&amp;osCsid=ff5c7e1dfa0d300a7283079616c7942c]GM 16505400[/url]<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module <br /> <br /> Fits the following vehicles: <br /> <br /> Buick: Reatta (1988-1989) <br /> <br /> Pontiac: Fiero (1987-88), Firebird (1987-89), Sunbird (1988-89) <br /> <br /> [size=200]Warning[/size],<br /> <br /> Headlight Control Module: The headlight control module is the same one in the Pontiac Firebird/Trans Am. It was rumored that this module was also in the Fiero/Sunbird. The module looks exactly the same in the Fiero/Sunbird. Upon opening up examples from both the Fiero/Sunbird, the pin-out is the same but the electronic connections are incompatible. It was not until I had my hands on a '92 Firebird module that the headlights worked. Dan had also used one from a '93 Firebird. Also, in investigating this problem, I visited the Firebird usenet groups. This module is prone to burn-out. (replacement cost new - $200) So, while Dan and I are the first, I do not believe we will be the only ones. Be warned!! The module is 5&quot;x5&quot;, black and has one 4 wire plug on the left and a 5 wire plug on the right. Also, the module has the word &quot;GUIDE&quot; written on its top. On the Elan, while looking at the engine bay, the module sits on the left hand side of the firewall. On the Firebird, the module sits either next to the master cylinder or near the left headlight. --Scott<br /> <br /> On the '93 Trans Am Firebird I grabbed mine from, the module was below and behind the LH Headlight pod -- you have to look close to spot it. --Dan<br /> <br /> <br /> So Hopefully everything has been pieced together.</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Oil_Sump/Pan 2010-07-10T13:32:09Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Replacement Parts */</p> <hr /> <div>__TOC__<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Background ==<br /> <br /> The 4XE1-MT engine is an Isuzu Item tunned by Lotus. The engine used various guises...<br /> <br /> * 91 Impulse<br /> * 92 Impulse turbocharged<br /> * 91 Storm<br /> * 92 - 93 Storm SOHC<br /> * 91 Stylus from 7/90<br /> * 92 Stylus SOHC<br /> * 93 Stylus<br /> <br /> == Common Faults ==<br /> <br /> Ther are several reasons as why to change an oil sump, but the following three spring to mind :-<br /> <br /> # Damaged whilst '''Incorrectly''' jacking the car.<br /> # Dented or holed after the vehicle bottomed out on the road surface.<br /> # Heavily corroded.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Sump 918.jpg|thumb|left]]<br /> &lt;br clear=both /&gt;<br /> <br /> == Replacement Parts ==<br /> <br /> Lotus Part number A100E6330S (£126)<br /> Isuzu Part Number: 897031-0190<br /> Tokyo Radiator Mfg. Co. 053551<br /> <br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> Image:Izusu_oil_pan.jpg‎|Isuzu Oil Pan picture taken from Ebay<br /> Image:HPIM1805.JPG|Isuzu Oil Pan<br /> Image:HPIM1807.JPG|Isuzu Oil Pan<br /> Image:Oil pan.jpg|Lotus Elan Oil Pan, Jet-Hot coated<br /> Image:Sump 179.jpg|Both Isuzu and Lotus IPC merged<br /> <br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> == Repair ==<br /> <br /> === Short term fix ===<br /> <br /> Aluminum putty<br /> <br /> === Long term fix ===<br /> <br /> Weld it...<br /> <br /> Second-hand from as little as £10 from the USA.<br /> <br /> == External Links ==<br /> * [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=142267#142267 Lotus Elan Central]<br /> * [http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/partsandaccessories/srchRes.asp?Car_ID=9&amp;Type1_ID=%25&amp;srch=sump SJ Lotus]<br /> * [https://www.isuzuparts.com/partscat.html Isuzuparts.com]<br /> * [http://car-part.com USA CAR PARTS] Search for 91, Geo, storm, oil pan.<br /> <br /> [[Category:Components]]<br /> [[Category:ReplacementParts]]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/File:HPIM1807.JPG 2010-07-10T13:28:23Z

<p>Elan SE: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Oil_Sump/Pan 2010-07-10T13:26:02Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Replacement Parts */</p> <hr /> <div>__TOC__<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Background ==<br /> <br /> The 4XE1-MT engine is an Isuzu Item tunned by Lotus. The engine used various guises...<br /> <br /> * 91 Impulse<br /> * 92 Impulse turbocharged<br /> * 91 Storm<br /> * 92 - 93 Storm SOHC<br /> * 91 Stylus from 7/90<br /> * 92 Stylus SOHC<br /> * 93 Stylus<br /> <br /> == Common Faults ==<br /> <br /> Ther are several reasons as why to change an oil sump, but the following three spring to mind :-<br /> <br /> # Damaged whilst '''Incorrectly''' jacking the car.<br /> # Dented or holed after the vehicle bottomed out on the road surface.<br /> # Heavily corroded.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Sump 918.jpg|thumb|left]]<br /> &lt;br clear=both /&gt;<br /> <br /> == Replacement Parts ==<br /> <br /> Lotus Part number A100E6330S (£126)<br /> Isuzu Part Number: 897031-0190<br /> Tokyo Radiator Mfg. Co. 053551<br /> <br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> Image:Izusu_oil_pan.jpg‎|Isuzu Oil Pan<br /> Image:HPIM1805.JPG|Isuzu Oil Pan<br /> Image:Oil pan.jpg|Lotus Elan Oil Pan, Jet-Hot coated<br /> Image:Sump 179.jpg<br /> <br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> == Repair ==<br /> <br /> === Short term fix ===<br /> <br /> Aluminum putty<br /> <br /> === Long term fix ===<br /> <br /> Weld it...<br /> <br /> Second-hand from as little as £10 from the USA.<br /> <br /> == External Links ==<br /> * [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=142267#142267 Lotus Elan Central]<br /> * [http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/partsandaccessories/srchRes.asp?Car_ID=9&amp;Type1_ID=%25&amp;srch=sump SJ Lotus]<br /> * [https://www.isuzuparts.com/partscat.html Isuzuparts.com]<br /> * [http://car-part.com USA CAR PARTS] Search for 91, Geo, storm, oil pan.<br /> <br /> [[Category:Components]]<br /> [[Category:ReplacementParts]]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Oil_Sump/Pan 2010-07-10T13:24:45Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Replacement Parts */</p> <hr /> <div>__TOC__<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Background ==<br /> <br /> The 4XE1-MT engine is an Isuzu Item tunned by Lotus. The engine used various guises...<br /> <br /> * 91 Impulse<br /> * 92 Impulse turbocharged<br /> * 91 Storm<br /> * 92 - 93 Storm SOHC<br /> * 91 Stylus from 7/90<br /> * 92 Stylus SOHC<br /> * 93 Stylus<br /> <br /> == Common Faults ==<br /> <br /> Ther are several reasons as why to change an oil sump, but the following three spring to mind :-<br /> <br /> # Damaged whilst '''Incorrectly''' jacking the car.<br /> # Dented or holed after the vehicle bottomed out on the road surface.<br /> # Heavily corroded.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Sump 918.jpg|thumb|left]]<br /> &lt;br clear=both /&gt;<br /> <br /> == Replacement Parts ==<br /> <br /> Lotus Part number A100E6330S (£126)<br /> Isuzu Part Number: 897031-0190<br /> Tokyo Radiator Mfg. Co. 053551<br /> <br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> Image:Izusu_oil_pan.jpg‎|Isuzu Oil Pan<br /> Image:Oil pan.jpg|Lotus Elan Oil Pan, Jet-Hot coated<br /> Image:Sump 179.jpg<br /> Image:HPIM1805.JPG<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> == Repair ==<br /> <br /> === Short term fix ===<br /> <br /> Aluminum putty<br /> <br /> === Long term fix ===<br /> <br /> Weld it...<br /> <br /> Second-hand from as little as £10 from the USA.<br /> <br /> == External Links ==<br /> * [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=142267#142267 Lotus Elan Central]<br /> * [http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/partsandaccessories/srchRes.asp?Car_ID=9&amp;Type1_ID=%25&amp;srch=sump SJ Lotus]<br /> * [https://www.isuzuparts.com/partscat.html Isuzuparts.com]<br /> * [http://car-part.com USA CAR PARTS] Search for 91, Geo, storm, oil pan.<br /> <br /> [[Category:Components]]<br /> [[Category:ReplacementParts]]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/File:HPIM1805.JPG 2010-07-10T13:23:15Z

<p>Elan SE: </p> <hr /> <div></div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Aerial 2010-06-14T21:28:27Z

<p>Elan SE: </p> <hr /> <div>The radio aerial on the back wing is a Blaupunkt (i.e. Bosch) Autoflex helical whip aerial with alternating wiring direction Standard 0°–30° · 12 V- - code number 7 691 270 001 <br /> <br /> The mast section of this antenna is available separately with the code number 8 698 114 571 (as per the UK 2005 catalogue). Until recently they were available through any Blaupunkt dealer (got mine from Halfords) and they cost a fraction of what Lotus charge. (Lotus Pt No A100M0170S)<br /> <br /> N.B. This aerial has a fine thread M4 x 0.5 bolt that screws in to the aerial mounting on the wing. From my experience Lotus has used different threads on the aerials at different times so worth checking your old one first. If it is different, then you will need to buy the complete Autoflex unit including the mounting block (code 7 691 270 001). Should still be a lot cheaper than buying a replacement Lotus aerial which may not fit your existing Lotus mounting block anyway (the last Lotus one I bought didn't). <br /> <br /> Be careful, there is a Hirschmann aerial/mast which the larger M5 x 1 thread. It's an identical part except for the screw thread. Your car could be fitted with either after 20 years. <br /> <br /> P.S. For the more technically minded the Bosch aerial is an 'active' aerial. There is also a 'passive' version, code 8 698 141 571.<br /> <br /> As of the Mar 2010 this aerial is now obsolete from Blaupunkt (Bluespot)www.bluespot.co.uk<br /> <br /> Old stock available from:-<br /> <br /> &lt;strike&gt;http://www.truckstophawkes.co.uk £26.00 ea plus postage plus vat..&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/ £36.78 ea plus postage plus vat..<br /> <br /> This may be the your last chance to find some thing that looks OEM<br /> <br /> HIRSCHMANN AERIAL 921 186-002 .......Warning....It has a M5 x 1 screw thread<br /> <br /> The [http://www.blaupunkt.de/fileadmin/user_upload/download/BP_Antenne_2007.pdf 2007 Blaupunkt catalogue] may help.<br /> <br /> As of June 2010, 8 698 114 571 appears on Slovakian, Estonian and other far flung web sites.<br /> <br /> As of June 2010 a Lotus aerial group buy, http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=85&amp;t=17382</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Wheel_bearings 2010-06-14T17:32:30Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Front wheel bearing - SKF kit: VKBA 736 */</p> <hr /> <div>{{stub}}<br /> <br /> SKF are generally recognised as a manufacturer of best quality bearings: SKF kit references provided by Bob Brown.<br /> <br /> ==Front wheel bearing - SKF kit: VKBA 736==<br /> <br /> '''Information from the [http://ret0027h.eresmas.net/lotuselancentral/archives/march03mb.htm Old LEC bulletin board]:'''<br /> <br /> Mar 2, 2003 - 12:37 - From: keith g<br /> <br /> Title: Bearing<br /> <br /> Message: Lotus number A100C6009F on bearing SKF BAHB 311396B <br /> <br /> <br /> '''Information from [http://www.ourbearings.com/wheel_bearings.htm Chinese wheel bearing cross reference] and [http://www.kml-bearing.com/upload/news/180/double-row-angula-contact-ball-bearing-two-inner-rings-1.html KML] '''<br /> <br /> [[Image:FrontWheelBearing.gif|250px]]<br /> <br /> Inside diameter (d)=39mm<br /> <br /> Outside diameter (D)=72mm<br /> <br /> Outer race width (B)=37mm<br /> <br /> Outer race width (C)=37mm<br /> <br /> Weight (W)=0.56kg<br /> <br /> Seal type: B<br /> <br /> ''Notes: <br /> <br /> Double row angular contact ball bearings with ladder<br /> <br /> The inner ring is locked &amp; the outer ring have a lead ladder''<br /> <br /> [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=45&amp;t=10517&amp;p=128423&amp;hilit=skf#p128423 LEC discussion!]<br /> <br /> <br /> FRONT WHEEL BEARING ''FBK067''<br /> <br /> Also Fitted to:-<br /> <br /> DAEWOO Espero JF/JA19 1.5i 04/95-08/97<br /> <br /> <br /> DAEWOO Espero JF/JA8 1.8i 04/95-08/97<br /> <br /> DAEWOO Espero JF/JAW 2.0i 04/95-08/97<br /> <br /> DAEWOO Lanos TA/TF6 1.6i 08/97-01/02<br /> <br /> DAEWOO Lanos TFC 1.4i 08/97-01/02<br /> <br /> DAEWOO Nexia TF/TA19Y 1.5i 04/95-08/97<br /> <br /> DAEWOO Nubira JF/JA35/69 2.0i 09/97-01/02<br /> <br /> DAEWOO Nubira JF356/696 1.6i 07/99-01/02<br /> <br /> DAEWOO Nubira JF356/696 1.6i 09/97-01/02<br /> <br /> LOTUS Elan 1.6i 1/90-12/95<br /> <br /> ROVER/MG ROVER City Rover 1.4i 1/03-<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Belmont 1.7D 01/89-10/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Belmont 1.8i 01/89-10/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Convertible II 2.0i 1/87-12/93<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Convertible III 1.8i 1/91-12/99<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Convertible III 2.0i 1/91-12/99<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra I 1.6 1/79-12/84<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra I 1.6D 1/79-12/84<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra I 1.8i 1/79-12/84<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra II 1.6 1/84-12/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra II 1.6D 1/84-12/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra II 1.7D 1/84-12/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra II 1.8i 1/84-12/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra II 2.0i 1/84-12/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra III 1.4i 1/91-12/98<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra III 1.6i 1/91-12/98<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra III 1.7TD 1/91-12/98<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra III 1.8i 1/91-12/98<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra III 2.0i 1/91-12/98<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Van I 1.6 1/82-12/84<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Van I 1.6D 1/82-12/84<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Van II 1.6 1/84-12/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Van II 1.6D 1/84-12/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Van II 1.7D 1/84-12/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Van III 1.7TD 1/91-12/98<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astramax 1.6 01/89-09/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astramax 1.6D 09/85-01/89<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astramax 1.7D 01/89-09/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astramax 1.7D 10/91-01/94<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Belmont 1.6 01/86-08/86<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Belmont 1.6D 01/86-01/89<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Belmont 1.8i 01/86-01/89<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Calibra 2.0i 02/94-12/95<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Calibra 2.0i 06/90-02/94<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Calibra 2.0i 06/90-12/95<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Calibra 2.0i 09/90-04/92<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Calibra 2.0i turbo 04/92-12/92<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier II 1.6 1/81-12/88<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier II 1.6D 1/81-12/88<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier II 1.8i 1/81-12/88<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier II 2.0i 1/81-12/88<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier III 1.6 1/88-12/95<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier III 1.7TD 1/88-12/95<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier III 1.8 1/88-12/95<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier III 2.0i 1/88-12/95<br /> <br /> http://www.trupart.co.uk/trupart/buyguide/html/tbk351.htm<br /> <br /> ==Rear wheel bearing - SKF kit: VKBA 529==<br /> <br /> The following rear wheel bearing kit will fit the Elan and is available from most motor factors, priced £7.50 each (19/1/2008):<br /> <br /> VW Jetta GL 1985-1998<br /> <br /> VW Golf 1984-1992 (MK1), 1992-1998 (MK3)<br /> <br /> However, the oil seal that comes with this kit is not the correct one. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The following oil seal is required:<br /> <br /> GM part number 90217059 priced £9.52 each from Vauxhall dealer (19/1/2008)<br /> <br /> or<br /> <br /> Vauxhall Corsa 1983-1993 rear wheel bearing kit priced £7 each from local motor factors (19/1/2008)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> I changed mine last week (07/05/2008) and found the seal in the VW kit to be a good fit in the hub. It appears to seal adequately, but I will keep an eye on it to make sure it keeps the grease in!<br /> Dave Pink<br /> <br /> [[Category:Components]]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Wheel_bearings 2010-06-14T11:22:49Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Front wheel bearing - SKF kit: VKBA 736 */</p> <hr /> <div>{{stub}}<br /> <br /> SKF are generally recognised as a manufacturer of best quality bearings: SKF kit references provided by Bob Brown.<br /> <br /> ==Front wheel bearing - SKF kit: VKBA 736==<br /> <br /> '''Information from the [http://ret0027h.eresmas.net/lotuselancentral/archives/march03mb.htm Old LEC bulletin board]:'''<br /> <br /> Mar 2, 2003 - 12:37 - From: keith g<br /> <br /> Title: Bearing<br /> <br /> Message: Lotus number A100C6009F on bearing SKF BAHB 311396B <br /> <br /> <br /> '''Information from [http://www.ourbearings.com/wheel_bearings.htm Chinese wheel bearing cross reference] and [http://www.kml-bearing.com/upload/news/180/double-row-angula-contact-ball-bearing-two-inner-rings-1.html KML] '''<br /> <br /> [[Image:FrontWheelBearing.gif|250px]]<br /> <br /> Inside diameter (d)=39mm<br /> <br /> Outside diameter (D)=72mm<br /> <br /> Outer race width (B)=37mm<br /> <br /> Outer race width (C)=37mm<br /> <br /> Weight (W)=0.56kg<br /> <br /> Seal type: B<br /> <br /> ''Notes: <br /> <br /> Double row angular contact ball bearings with ladder<br /> <br /> The inner ring is locked &amp; the outer ring have a lead ladder''<br /> <br /> [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=45&amp;t=10517&amp;p=128423&amp;hilit=skf#p128423 LEC discussion!]<br /> <br /> <br /> FRONT WHEEL BEARING FBK067 Fitting Details:<br /> <br /> DAEWOO Espero JF/JA19 1.5i 04/95-08/97<br /> <br /> <br /> DAEWOO Espero JF/JA8 1.8i 04/95-08/97<br /> <br /> DAEWOO Espero JF/JAW 2.0i 04/95-08/97<br /> <br /> DAEWOO Lanos TA/TF6 1.6i 08/97-01/02<br /> <br /> DAEWOO Lanos TFC 1.4i 08/97-01/02<br /> <br /> DAEWOO Nexia TF/TA19Y 1.5i 04/95-08/97<br /> <br /> DAEWOO Nubira JF/JA35/69 2.0i 09/97-01/02<br /> <br /> DAEWOO Nubira JF356/696 1.6i 07/99-01/02<br /> <br /> DAEWOO Nubira JF356/696 1.6i 09/97-01/02<br /> <br /> LOTUS Elan 1.6i 1/90-12/95<br /> <br /> ROVER/MG ROVER City Rover 1.4i 1/03-<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Belmont 1.7D 01/89-10/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Belmont 1.8i 01/89-10/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Convertible II 2.0i 1/87-12/93<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Convertible III 1.8i 1/91-12/99<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Convertible III 2.0i 1/91-12/99<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra I 1.6 1/79-12/84<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra I 1.6D 1/79-12/84<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra I 1.8i 1/79-12/84<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra II 1.6 1/84-12/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra II 1.6D 1/84-12/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra II 1.7D 1/84-12/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra II 1.8i 1/84-12/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra II 2.0i 1/84-12/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra III 1.4i 1/91-12/98<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra III 1.6i 1/91-12/98<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra III 1.7TD 1/91-12/98<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra III 1.8i 1/91-12/98<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra III 2.0i 1/91-12/98<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Van I 1.6 1/82-12/84<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Van I 1.6D 1/82-12/84<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Van II 1.6 1/84-12/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Van II 1.6D 1/84-12/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Van II 1.7D 1/84-12/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astra Van III 1.7TD 1/91-12/98<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astramax 1.6 01/89-09/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astramax 1.6D 09/85-01/89<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astramax 1.7D 01/89-09/91<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Astramax 1.7D 10/91-01/94<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Belmont 1.6 01/86-08/86<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Belmont 1.6D 01/86-01/89<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Belmont 1.8i 01/86-01/89<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Calibra 2.0i 02/94-12/95<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Calibra 2.0i 06/90-02/94<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Calibra 2.0i 06/90-12/95<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Calibra 2.0i 09/90-04/92<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Calibra 2.0i turbo 04/92-12/92<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier II 1.6 1/81-12/88<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier II 1.6D 1/81-12/88<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier II 1.8i 1/81-12/88<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier II 2.0i 1/81-12/88<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier III 1.6 1/88-12/95<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier III 1.7TD 1/88-12/95<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier III 1.8 1/88-12/95<br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier III 2.0i 1/88-12/95<br /> <br /> ==Rear wheel bearing - SKF kit: VKBA 529==<br /> <br /> The following rear wheel bearing kit will fit the Elan and is available from most motor factors, priced £7.50 each (19/1/2008):<br /> <br /> VW Jetta GL 1985-1998<br /> <br /> VW Golf 1984-1992 (MK1), 1992-1998 (MK3)<br /> <br /> However, the oil seal that comes with this kit is not the correct one. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The following oil seal is required:<br /> <br /> GM part number 90217059 priced £9.52 each from Vauxhall dealer (19/1/2008)<br /> <br /> or<br /> <br /> Vauxhall Corsa 1983-1993 rear wheel bearing kit priced £7 each from local motor factors (19/1/2008)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> I changed mine last week (07/05/2008) and found the seal in the VW kit to be a good fit in the hub. It appears to seal adequately, but I will keep an eye on it to make sure it keeps the grease in!<br /> Dave Pink<br /> <br /> [[Category:Components]]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Wheel_bearings 2010-06-14T11:19:25Z

<p>Elan SE: /* Front wheel bearing - SKF kit: VKBA 736 */</p> <hr /> <div>{{stub}}<br /> <br /> SKF are generally recognised as a manufacturer of best quality bearings: SKF kit references provided by Bob Brown.<br /> <br /> ==Front wheel bearing - SKF kit: VKBA 736==<br /> <br /> '''Information from the [http://ret0027h.eresmas.net/lotuselancentral/archives/march03mb.htm Old LEC bulletin board]:'''<br /> <br /> Mar 2, 2003 - 12:37 - From: keith g<br /> <br /> Title: Bearing<br /> <br /> Message: Lotus number A100C6009F on bearing SKF BAHB 311396B <br /> <br /> <br /> '''Information from [http://www.ourbearings.com/wheel_bearings.htm Chinese wheel bearing cross reference] and [http://www.kml-bearing.com/upload/news/180/double-row-angula-contact-ball-bearing-two-inner-rings-1.html KML] '''<br /> <br /> [[Image:FrontWheelBearing.gif|250px]]<br /> <br /> Inside diameter (d)=39mm<br /> <br /> Outside diameter (D)=72mm<br /> <br /> Outer race width (B)=37mm<br /> <br /> Outer race width (C)=37mm<br /> <br /> Weight (W)=0.56kg<br /> <br /> Seal type: B<br /> <br /> ''Notes: <br /> <br /> Double row angular contact ball bearings with ladder<br /> <br /> The inner ring is locked &amp; the outer ring have a lead ladder''<br /> <br /> [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=45&amp;t=10517&amp;p=128423&amp;hilit=skf#p128423 LEC discussion!]<br /> <br /> <br /> FRONT WHEEL BEARING FBK067 Fitting Details:<br /> <br /> DAEWOO Espero JF/JA19 1.5i 04/95-08/97<br /> DAEWOO Espero JF/JA8 1.8i 04/95-08/97<br /> DAEWOO Espero JF/JAW 2.0i 04/95-08/97<br /> DAEWOO Lanos TA/TF6 1.6i 08/97-01/02<br /> DAEWOO Lanos TFC 1.4i 08/97-01/02<br /> DAEWOO Nexia TF/TA19Y 1.5i 04/95-08/97<br /> DAEWOO Nubira JF/JA35/69 2.0i 09/97-01/02<br /> DAEWOO Nubira JF356/696 1.6i 07/99-01/02<br /> DAEWOO Nubira JF356/696 1.6i 09/97-01/02<br /> LOTUS Elan 1.6i 1/90-12/95<br /> ROVER/MG ROVER City Rover 1.4i 1/03-<br /> VAUXHALL Astra Belmont 1.7D 01/89-10/91<br /> VAUXHALL Astra Belmont 1.8i 01/89-10/91<br /> VAUXHALL Astra Convertible II 2.0i 1/87-12/93<br /> VAUXHALL Astra Convertible III 1.8i 1/91-12/99<br /> VAUXHALL Astra Convertible III 2.0i 1/91-12/99<br /> VAUXHALL Astra I 1.6 1/79-12/84<br /> VAUXHALL Astra I 1.6D 1/79-12/84<br /> VAUXHALL Astra I 1.8i 1/79-12/84<br /> VAUXHALL Astra II 1.6 1/84-12/91<br /> VAUXHALL Astra II 1.6D 1/84-12/91<br /> VAUXHALL Astra II 1.7D 1/84-12/91<br /> VAUXHALL Astra II 1.8i 1/84-12/91<br /> VAUXHALL Astra II 2.0i 1/84-12/91<br /> VAUXHALL Astra III 1.4i 1/91-12/98<br /> VAUXHALL Astra III 1.6i 1/91-12/98<br /> VAUXHALL Astra III 1.7TD 1/91-12/98<br /> VAUXHALL Astra III 1.8i 1/91-12/98<br /> VAUXHALL Astra III 2.0i 1/91-12/98<br /> VAUXHALL Astra Van I 1.6 1/82-12/84<br /> VAUXHALL Astra Van I 1.6D 1/82-12/84<br /> VAUXHALL Astra Van II 1.6 1/84-12/91<br /> VAUXHALL Astra Van II 1.6D 1/84-12/91<br /> VAUXHALL Astra Van II 1.7D 1/84-12/91<br /> VAUXHALL Astra Van III 1.7TD 1/91-12/98<br /> VAUXHALL Astramax 1.6 01/89-09/91<br /> VAUXHALL Astramax 1.6D 09/85-01/89<br /> VAUXHALL Astramax 1.7D 01/89-09/91<br /> VAUXHALL Astramax 1.7D 10/91-01/94<br /> VAUXHALL Belmont 1.6 01/86-08/86<br /> VAUXHALL Belmont 1.6D 01/86-01/89<br /> VAUXHALL Belmont 1.8i 01/86-01/89<br /> VAUXHALL Calibra 2.0i 02/94-12/95<br /> VAUXHALL Calibra 2.0i 06/90-02/94<br /> VAUXHALL Calibra 2.0i 06/90-12/95<br /> VAUXHALL Calibra 2.0i 09/90-04/92<br /> VAUXHALL Calibra 2.0i turbo 04/92-12/92<br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier II 1.6 1/81-12/88<br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier II 1.6D 1/81-12/88<br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier II 1.8i 1/81-12/88<br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier II 2.0i 1/81-12/88<br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier III 1.6 1/88-12/95<br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier III 1.7TD 1/88-12/95<br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier III 1.8 1/88-12/95<br /> VAUXHALL Cavalier III 2.0i 1/88-12/95<br /> <br /> ==Rear wheel bearing - SKF kit: VKBA 529==<br /> <br /> The following rear wheel bearing kit will fit the Elan and is available from most motor factors, priced £7.50 each (19/1/2008):<br /> <br /> VW Jetta GL 1985-1998<br /> <br /> VW Golf 1984-1992 (MK1), 1992-1998 (MK3)<br /> <br /> However, the oil seal that comes with this kit is not the correct one. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> The following oil seal is required:<br /> <br /> GM part number 90217059 priced £9.52 each from Vauxhall dealer (19/1/2008)<br /> <br /> or<br /> <br /> Vauxhall Corsa 1983-1993 rear wheel bearing kit priced £7 each from local motor factors (19/1/2008)<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> I changed mine last week (07/05/2008) and found the seal in the VW kit to be a good fit in the hub. It appears to seal adequately, but I will keep an eye on it to make sure it keeps the grease in!<br /> Dave Pink<br /> <br /> [[Category:Components]]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Compression_test 2010-03-16T18:30:47Z

<p>Elan SE: </p> <hr /> <div>Compression test values for reference.<br /> <br /> &quot;Compression mods&quot; includes any work that might have altered the stock compression ratio, including custom pistons or rods, head skim or spacers/shims. <br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; align=&quot;center&quot;<br /> ! user <br /> ! year <br /> ! model <br /> ! age <br /> ! mileage <br /> ! warm/cold <br /> ! wet/dry <br /> ! pressures <br /> ! strokes <br /> ! tester<br /> ! compression mods<br /> |-<br /> | ashm <br /> | 1991 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 18 <br /> | 59k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 170/170/165/165 <br /> | 4/4/5/5<br /> | Gunsons <br /> | none<br /> |-<br /> | Monty<br /> | 1990 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 19 <br /> | 84k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 160/150/155/160 <br /> | 5 to 6<br /> | Screwfix<br /> | Throttle fully open, Head skimmed<br /> |-<br /> | Dico<br /> | 1993<br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 16<br /> | 47k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 160/155/155/160 <br /> | 5 to 6<br /> | <br /> | Throttle fully open<br /> |-<br /> | Rambo<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 160/160/160/160 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | chrishewett<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 165/165/165/165 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | RichieP<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 140/140/140/140 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | andyhaworth<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 150/150/150/150 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | MikeyDude<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | cold<br /> | dry<br /> | 158/153/145/150 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | Mike_H<br /> | 1991<br /> | SE Turbo<br /> | 18<br /> | 40000<br /> | warm<br /> | dry<br /> | 185/180/175/175 <br /> | 5<br /> | Gunsons<br /> | Throttle open<br /> |-<br /> | Specky<br /> | 1991<br /> | SE Turbo<br /> | 18<br /> | 75000<br /> | warm<br /> | dry<br /> | 148/149/150/148 <br /> | <br /> | Gunsons<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | Specky<br /> | 1989<br /> | NA<br /> | 21<br /> | 80000<br /> | cold<br /> | dry<br /> | 150/150/150/150 <br /> | <br /> | Gunsons<br /> | Alarm bells low pressure<br /> |-<br /> | Manou <br /> | 1993<br /> | SE Turbo<br /> | 21<br /> | 64000<br /> | cold<br /> | dry<br /> | 135/128/122/130 <br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Monty: Test done with engine up to running temp, Throttle fully open, all spark plugs removed. Engine turned over approx 6 revolutions per each test.<br /> Used compression tester from Screwfix <br /> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/16856/Van-Car-Accessories/Mechanics-Tools/Compression-Tester?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Van%20and%20Car%20Accessories-_-Compression%20Tester#<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:monty.jpg]]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Compression_test 2010-03-16T18:14:09Z

<p>Elan SE: </p> <hr /> <div>Compression test values for reference.<br /> <br /> &quot;Compression mods&quot; includes any work that might have altered the stock compression ratio, including custom pistons or rods, head skim or spacers/shims. <br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; align=&quot;center&quot;<br /> ! user <br /> ! year <br /> ! model <br /> ! age <br /> ! mileage <br /> ! warm/cold <br /> ! wet/dry <br /> ! pressures <br /> ! strokes <br /> ! tester<br /> ! compression mods<br /> |-<br /> | ashm <br /> | 1991 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 18 <br /> | 59k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 170/170/165/165 <br /> | 4/4/5/5<br /> | Gunsons <br /> | none<br /> |-<br /> | Monty<br /> | 1990 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 19 <br /> | 84k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 160/150/155/160 <br /> | 5 to 6<br /> | Screwfix<br /> | Throttle fully open, Head skimmed<br /> |-<br /> | Dico<br /> | 1993<br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 16<br /> | 47k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 160/155/155/160 <br /> | 5 to 6<br /> | <br /> | Throttle fully open<br /> |-<br /> | Rambo<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 160/160/160/160 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | chrishewett<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 165/165/165/165 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | RichieP<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 140/140/140/140 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | andyhaworth<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 150/150/150/150 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | MikeyDude<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | cold<br /> | dry<br /> | 158/153/145/150 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | Mike_H<br /> | 1991<br /> | Turbo<br /> | 18<br /> | 40000<br /> | warm<br /> | dry<br /> | 185/180/175/175 <br /> | 5<br /> | Gunsons<br /> | Throttle open<br /> |-<br /> | Specky<br /> | 1991<br /> | SE Turbo<br /> | 18<br /> | 75000<br /> | warm<br /> | dry<br /> | 148/149/150/148 <br /> | <br /> | Gunsons<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | Specky<br /> | 1989<br /> | NA<br /> | 21<br /> | 80000<br /> | cold<br /> | dry<br /> | 150/150/150/150 <br /> | <br /> | Gunsons<br /> | Alarm bells low pressure<br /> |-<br /> | Manou <br /> | 1993<br /> | SE<br /> | 21<br /> | 64000<br /> | cold<br /> | dry<br /> | 135/128/122/130 <br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Monty: Test done with engine up to running temp, Throttle fully open, all spark plugs removed. Engine turned over approx 6 revolutions per each test.<br /> Used compression tester from Screwfix <br /> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/16856/Van-Car-Accessories/Mechanics-Tools/Compression-Tester?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Van%20and%20Car%20Accessories-_-Compression%20Tester#<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:monty.jpg]]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Aerial 2010-02-25T14:28:02Z

<p>Elan SE: </p> <hr /> <div>The radio aerial on the back wing is a Blaupunkt (i.e. Bosch) Autoflex helical whip aerial with alternating wiring direction - code number 8 698 114 571 (as per the UK 2005 catalogue). You should be able to order them through any Blaupunkt dealer (got mine from Halfords) and they cost a fraction of what Lotus charge. (Lotus Pt No A100M0170S)<br /> <br /> N.B. This aerial has a fine thread M4 x 0.5 bolt that screws in to the aerial mounting on the wing. From my experience Lotus has used different threads on the aerials at different times so worth checking your old one first. If it is different, then you will need to buy the complete Autoflex unit including the mounting block (code 7 691 270 001). Should still be a lot cheaper than buying a replacement Lotus aerial which may not fit your existing Lotus mounting block anyway (the last Lotus one I bought didn't). <br /> <br /> Be careful, there is a Hirschmann aerial/mast which the larger M5 x 1 thread. It's an identical part except for the screw thread. Your car could be fitted with either after 20 years. <br /> <br /> P.S. For the more technically minded the Bosch areial is an 'active' aerial. There is also a 'passive' version, code 8 698 141 571.<br /> <br /> As of the Mar 2010 this aerial is now obsolete from Blaupunkt (Bluespot)www.bluespot.co.uk<br /> <br /> Old stock available from:-<br /> <br /> http://www.truckstophawkes.co.uk £26.00 ea plus postage plus vat..<br /> <br /> http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/ £36.78 ea plus postage plus vat..<br /> <br /> This may be the your last chance to find some thing that looks OEM<br /> <br /> HIRSCHMANN AERIAL 921 186-002 .......Warnig....It has a M5 x 1 screw thread</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Aerial 2010-02-25T11:33:10Z

<p>Elan SE: New page: The radio aerial on the back wing is a Blaupunkt (i.e. Bosch) Autoflex helical whip aerial with alternating wiring direction - code number 8 698 114 571 (as per the UK 2005 catalogue). You...</p> <hr /> <div>The radio aerial on the back wing is a Blaupunkt (i.e. Bosch) Autoflex helical whip aerial with alternating wiring direction - code number 8 698 114 571 (as per the UK 2005 catalogue). You should be able to order them through any Blaupunkt dealer (got mine from Halfords) and they cost a fraction of what Lotus charge. <br /> <br /> N.B. This aerial has a fine thread M4 x 0.5 bolt that screws in to the aerial mounting on the wing. From my experience Lotus has used different threads on the aerials at different times so worth checking your old one first. If it is different, then you will need to buy the complete Autoflex unit including the mounting block (code 7 691 270 001). Should still be a lot cheaper than buying a replacement Lotus aerial which may not fit your existing Lotus mounting block anyway (the last Lotus one I bought didn't). <br /> <br /> P.S. For the more technically minded this is an 'active' aerial. There is also a 'passive' version, code 8 698 141 571.</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Parts_Cross-references_by_Vehicle_Model 2010-02-11T21:50:36Z

<p>Elan SE: </p> <hr /> <div>Please add any you know to this list. Add UK/European cross-references too.<br /> <br /> All drive belts, including timing belt excluding Alternator belt--&gt;1991 Isuzu Impulse. Alternator belt is one size smaller than Impulse - Reference: 275K4 <br /> <br /> Front brake pads--&gt;Pontiac Lemans, 1988-1993 Front, 1988 Pontiac Fiero<br /> <br /> Rear brake pads--&gt;1991 Chevy Lumina<br /> <br /> Front brake disks--&gt;Vauxhall Astra, 1989 Pontiac LeMans<br /> <br /> Front brake calipers--&gt;1981-1988 Opel, Vauxhall with Delco system. 1980-1991 Astra, 1989 Pontiac LeMans<br /> <br /> Rear Wheel Bearings--&gt;1985-1998 VW Jetta GL, VW Golf 1984-1992 (MK1), 1992-1998 (MK3) (However, the oil seal that comes with this kit is not the correct one. The following oil seal is required: GM part number 90217059 or Vauxhall Corsa 1983-1993 rear wheel bearing kit.) <br /> <br /> Coolant Temperature Sensor--&gt;Pontiac Fiero, Isuzu Impulse RS and Geo Storm, Isuzu Trooper (1986-7 with 2.3l engine and 1992-2001 with 3.2l &amp; 3.5l V6 engines)<br /> <br /> Radiator fans thermal switch--&gt;1988 Pontiac Fiero<br /> <br /> Radiator Cooling Fans--&gt;Renault 25 AR4 Automatic transmission, Renault Trafic II, Renault Trafic III <br /> <br /> Headlight motors--&gt;Pontiac Sunbird GT<br /> <br /> A/C blower motor--&gt;1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse<br /> <br /> Alternator--&gt;1991 Isuzu Impulse<br /> <br /> Oil filler cap--&gt;Honda works<br /> <br /> Oil filter--&gt;1991 Isuzu Impulse<br /> <br /> Most engine gaskets--&gt;1991 Isuzu Impulse RS<br /> <br /> Manifold Air Pressure Sensor (MAP)--&gt;1991 Isuzu Impulse RS, Lotus Carlton, 1990 Pontiac Sunbird. For other references (1 Bar, 2 Bar, 3 Bar sensors), see [http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/component_info/sensors.html this cross-reference list.]<br /> <br /> Starter--&gt;1991 Isuzu Impulse<br /> <br /> Horn button switches (Fed Elan)--&gt;1990-1992 Chevy Camaro, Pontiac Firebird<br /> <br /> Ignition Coils--&gt;1991 Isuzu Impulse RS (the list of GM cars is extensive, [http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductGuide.aspx?mfrcode=BOR&amp;mfrpartnumber=E51 PartsAmerica Coil xref])<br /> <br /> O2 sensor--&gt;1991 Isuzu Impulse<br /> <br /> CV Boots--&gt;1991 Isuzu Impulse<br /> <br /> Thermostat--&gt;1991 Isuzu Impulse RS Turbo, Any 1000cc Mini 1969-1992<br /> <br /> Heater valve--&gt; Holden (AUS) Commodore, Volvo 740 and similar; Fiat Spyder<br /> <br /> Heater control--&gt; Holden (AUS) Commodore - [http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&amp;t=15590 LEC discussion]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Oil_Sump/Pan 2009-11-05T09:25:55Z

<p>Elan SE: </p> <hr /> <div>__TOC__<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Background ==<br /> <br /> The 4XE1-MT engine is an Isuzu Item tunned by Lotus. The engine used various guises...<br /> <br /> * 91 Impulse<br /> * 92 Impulse turbocharged<br /> * 91 Storm<br /> * 92 - 93 Storm SOHC<br /> * 91 Stylus from 7/90<br /> * 92 Stylus SOHC<br /> * 93 Stylus<br /> <br /> == Common Faults ==<br /> <br /> Ther are several reasons as why to change an oil sump, but the following three spring to mind :-<br /> <br /> # Damaged whilst '''Incorrectly''' jacking the car.<br /> # Dented or holed after the vehicle bottomed out on the road surface.<br /> # Heavily corroded.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Sump 918.jpg|thumb|left]]<br /> &lt;br clear=both /&gt;<br /> <br /> == Replacement Parts ==<br /> <br /> Lotus Part number A100E6330S (£126)<br /> Isuzu Part Number: 897031-0190<br /> Tokyo Radiator Mfg. Co. 053551<br /> <br /> &lt;gallery&gt;<br /> Image:Izusu_oil_pan.jpg‎|Isuzu Oil Pan<br /> Image:Oil pan.jpg|Lotus Elan Oil Pan, Jet-Hot coated<br /> Image:Sump 179.jpg<br /> &lt;/gallery&gt;<br /> <br /> == Repair ==<br /> <br /> === Short term fix ===<br /> <br /> Aluminum putty<br /> <br /> === Long term fix ===<br /> <br /> Weld it...<br /> <br /> Second-hand from as little as £10 from the USA.<br /> <br /> == External Links ==<br /> * [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=142267#142267 Lotus Elan Central]<br /> * [http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/partsandaccessories/srchRes.asp?Car_ID=9&amp;Type1_ID=%25&amp;srch=sump SJ Lotus]<br /> * [https://www.isuzuparts.com/partscat.html Isuzuparts.com]<br /> * [http://car-part.com USA CAR PARTS] Search for 91, Geo, storm, oil pan.<br /> <br /> [[Category:Components]]<br /> [[Category:ReplacementParts]]</div>

Elan SE https://wikilec.com/view/Suspension_OEM 2009-11-01T18:08:45Z

<p>Elan SE: </p> <hr /> <div>Indeed. The one I found earlier for frt spring was from here<br /> Searching for the rear spring is what found me the Monroe SP1337 number in the same place.<br /> The rear S2 damper remains elusive so far.<br /> A summary of what I and others have found so far:<br /> <br /> '''NORMALLY ASPIRARTED'''<br /> <br /> Front Spring/Damper Assembly: F100C0043F Yel/Yel/White<br /> Parts Manual agrees with Specky's numbers<br /> Front Spring: A100C0087H Yel/Yel/White (Concurs with Specks)<br /> Front Damper: Original number C100C6015H R/B F100C6015F (S2 Type)<br /> The Replaced By number agrees with Specky's number off the new assembly damper F100C6015.<br /> Rear Spring/Damper assembly: Same as RowSE F100D0030F Grn/Yel/White R/B J100D0030J Grn/Yel/white (S2 type) <br /> Rear Spring: Same as RowSE/S2 B100D0071F Grn/Yel/White Possibly Spidan (GKN) 55653<br /> Rear Damper: Same as RowSE/S2 C100D6011H R/B E100D6011F (S2 type)<br /> So everything except the front spring is the same as S2 setup.<br /> <br /> '''FEDRAL'''<br /> <br /> Front spring/damper assembly: C100C0123F Blue/Yel/Orange (Concurs with Specky)<br /> Front Spring: A100C0126H Blue/Yel/Orange<br /> Front damper: B100C6029H<br /> Rear Spring/Damper Assembly: B100D0083F Red/Yel/Orange<br /> Rear Spring: A100D0082H Red/Yel/Orange<br /> Rear Damper: B100D6025H<br /> So the whole setup is different to NA/RowSE/S2<br /> <br /> '''ROW SE'''<br /> <br /> Front Spring/Damper Assembly: F100C0077F Yel/Yel/Grn<br /> Front Spring: B100C0086F Yel/Yel/Grn (Same part number and colours as S2) Possibly Spidan (GKN) number 55652 or Monroe SP1337<br /> Front Damper: Original number C100C6015H R/B F100C6015F (S2 Type)<br /> Rear Spring/Damper assembly: F100D0030F Grn/Yel/white R/B J100D0030J Grn/Yel/White (S2 type) <br /> Rear Spring: Same as S2 B100D0071F Grn/Yel/White Possibly Spidan (GKN) 55653<br /> Rear Damper: C100D6011H R/B E100D6011F (S2 type)<br /> Hence it appears that the RowSE setup maybe replaced entirely by the S2 setup<br /> <br /> S2<br /> Front Spring/Damper Assembly: H100C0077J Yel/Yel/Grn<br /> Front Spring: B100C0086F Yel/Yel/Grn Possibly Spidan (GKN) 55652 or Monroe SP1337<br /> Front Damper: F100C6015F<br /> Rear Spring/Damper Assembly: J100D0030J Grn/Yel/White<br /> Rear Spring: B100D0071F Possibly Spidan (GKN) 55653<br /> Rear Damper: E100D6011F (This is the really elusive bugger)</div>

Elan SE