WikiLEC - User contributions [en]

Brake Master Cylinder

2013-01-01T16:46:38Z

DeanG: /* Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler. Play it safe and tape up the inlets.
# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available by purchasing a new reservoir.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

[[Image:Level_Sensor_2688.jpg‎]]
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

 

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. I replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25
 

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I was unable to find an acceptable GM replacement. I sent out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.
 

'''Note:''' When sending out the master cylinder don't send anything that is not intended to be rebuilt. Remove plungers, seals for the reservoir and etc. It is easy for a re-builder to loose these items.
 

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacuum booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup mounted in a drill did the trick. Next I did a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint made it nice enough to make the show and shine happy. 

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued.''
 

=== Bleeding the Brakes ===

Possibly I should have bench bled the master cylinder but I didn’t. I don’t know if I could have fit the cylinder with reservoir back into the car. Maybe someone can give it a try and add to this section. Do an internet search on “bench bleed master cylinder” if you are interested. 

To bleed the system I ended up loosening both side mounted brake pipes until fluid came drooling out. After tightening these brake pipes I gravity bled the system by going around the car to each caliper in turn and: 

# Applying caliper grease around the threads of the caliper bleed nipple
# Attaching a hose leading from a caliper bleed nipple into a catch can
# Loosening the bleed screws 

I then waited until a fair amount of brake fluid had accumulated in the catch can. This took about 15 minutes for each caliper. Fortunately I have a lot to work on with the car so I wasn’t just sitting and waiting to top up the reservoir. 

== Also See ==
=== Master Cylinder in the WIKI. ===

=== [[Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap]] ===
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2013-01-01T16:44:27Z

DeanG: /* Rebuilding the Master Cylinder */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler. Play it safe and tape up the inlets.
# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available by purchasing a new reservoir.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

[[Image:Level_Sensor_2688.jpg‎]]
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

 

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. I replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25
 

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I was unable to find an acceptable GM replacement. I sent out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.
 

'''Note:''' When sending out the master cylinder don't send anything that is not intended to be rebuilt. Remove plungers, seals for the reservoir and etc. It is easy for a re-builder to loose these items.
 

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacuum booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy. 

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued.''
 

=== Bleeding the Brakes ===

Possibly I should have bench bled the master cylinder but I didn’t. I don’t know if I could have fit the cylinder with reservoir back into the car. Maybe someone can give it a try and add to this section. Do an internet search on “bench bleed master cylinder” if you are interested. 

To bleed the system I ended up loosening both side mounted brake pipes until fluid came drooling out. After tightening these brake pipes I gravity bled the system by going around the car to each caliper in turn and: 

# Applying caliper grease around the threads of the caliper bleed nipple
# Attaching a hose leading from a caliper bleed nipple into a catch can
# Loosening the bleed screws 

I then waited until a fair amount of brake fluid had accumulated in the catch can. This took about 15 minutes for each caliper. Fortunately I have a lot to work on with the car so I wasn’t just sitting and waiting to top up the reservoir. 

== Also See ==
=== Master Cylinder in the WIKI. ===

=== [[Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap]] ===
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2013-01-01T16:33:00Z

DeanG: /* Bleeding the Brakes */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler. Play it safe and tape up the inlets.
# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available by purchasing a new reservoir.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

[[Image:Level_Sensor_2688.jpg‎]]
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

 

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. I replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25
 

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I was unable to find an acceptable GM replacement. I sent out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.
 

'''Note:''' When sending out the master cylinder don't send anything that is not intended to be rebuilt. Remove plungers, seals for the reservoir and etc. It is easy for a re-builder to loose these items.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacuum booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy. 

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued.''
 

=== Bleeding the Brakes ===

Possibly I should have bench bled the master cylinder but I didn’t. I don’t know if I could have fit the cylinder with reservoir back into the car. Maybe someone can give it a try and add to this section. Do an internet search on “bench bleed master cylinder” if you are interested. 

To bleed the system I ended up loosening both side mounted brake pipes until fluid came drooling out. After tightening these brake pipes I gravity bled the system by going around the car to each caliper in turn and: 

# Applying caliper grease around the threads of the caliper bleed nipple
# Attaching a hose leading from a caliper bleed nipple into a catch can
# Loosening the bleed screws 

I then waited until a fair amount of brake fluid had accumulated in the catch can. This took about 15 minutes for each caliper. Fortunately I have a lot to work on with the car so I wasn’t just sitting and waiting to top up the reservoir. 

== Also See ==
=== Master Cylinder in the WIKI. ===

=== [[Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap]] ===
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2013-01-01T16:32:49Z

DeanG: /* Bleeding the Brakes */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler. Play it safe and tape up the inlets.
# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available by purchasing a new reservoir.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

[[Image:Level_Sensor_2688.jpg‎]]
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

 

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. I replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25
 

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I was unable to find an acceptable GM replacement. I sent out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.
 

'''Note:''' When sending out the master cylinder don't send anything that is not intended to be rebuilt. Remove plungers, seals for the reservoir and etc. It is easy for a re-builder to loose these items.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacuum booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy. 

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued.''
 

=== Bleeding the Brakes ===

Possibly I should have bench bled the master cylinder but I didn’t. I don’t know if I could have fit the cylinder with reservoir back into the car. Maybe someone can give it a try and add to this section. Do an internet search on “bench bleed master cylinder” if you are interested. 

To bleed the system I ended up loosening both side mounted brake pipes until fluid came drooling out. After tightening these brake pipes I gravity bled the system by going around the car to each caliper in turn and: 

# Applying caliper grease around the threads of the caliper bleed nipple
# Attaching a hose leading from a caliper bleed nipple into a catch can
# Loosening the bleed screws 

I then waited until a fair amount of brake fluid had accumulated in the catch can. This took about 15 minutes for each caliper. Fortunately I have a lot to work on with the car so I wasn’t just sitting and waiting to top up the reservoir. 

''To be continued.''
 

== Also See ==
=== Master Cylinder in the WIKI. ===

=== [[Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap]] ===
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2013-01-01T16:32:25Z

DeanG: /* Bleeding the Brakes */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler. Play it safe and tape up the inlets.
# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available by purchasing a new reservoir.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

[[Image:Level_Sensor_2688.jpg‎]]
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

 

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. I replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25
 

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I was unable to find an acceptable GM replacement. I sent out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.
 

'''Note:''' When sending out the master cylinder don't send anything that is not intended to be rebuilt. Remove plungers, seals for the reservoir and etc. It is easy for a re-builder to loose these items.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacuum booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy. 

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued.''
 

=== Bleeding the Brakes ===

Possibly I should have bench bled the master cylinder but I didn’t. I don’t know if I could have fit the cylinder with reservoir back into the car. Maybe someone can give it a try and add to this section. Do an internet search on “bench bleed master cylinder” if you are interested. 

To bleed the system I ended up loosening both side mounted brake pipes until fluid came drooling out. After tightening these brake pipes I gravity bled the system by going around the car to each caliper in turn and: 

# Applying caliper grease around the threads of the caliper bleed nipple

# Attaching a hose leading from a caliper bleed nipple into a catch can

# Loosening the bleed screws 

I then waited until a fair amount of brake fluid had accumulated in the catch can. This took about 15 minutes for each caliper. Fortunately I have a lot to work on with the car so I wasn’t just sitting and waiting to top up the reservoir. 

''To be continued.''
 

== Also See ==
=== Master Cylinder in the WIKI. ===

=== [[Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap]] ===
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2013-01-01T16:31:32Z

DeanG: /* Removing the low brake fluid sensor */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler. Play it safe and tape up the inlets.
# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available by purchasing a new reservoir.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

[[Image:Level_Sensor_2688.jpg‎]]
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

 

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. I replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25
 

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I was unable to find an acceptable GM replacement. I sent out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.
 

'''Note:''' When sending out the master cylinder don't send anything that is not intended to be rebuilt. Remove plungers, seals for the reservoir and etc. It is easy for a re-builder to loose these items.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacuum booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy. 

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued.''
 

=== Bleeding the Brakes ===

Possibly I should have bench bled the master cylinder but I didn’t. I don’t know if I could have fit the cylinder with reservoir back into the car. Maybe someone can give it a try and add to this section. Do an internet search on “bench bleed master cylinder” if you are interested. 

To bleed the system I ended up loosening both side mounted brake pipes until fluid came drooling out. After tightening these brake pipes I gravity bled the system by going around the car to each caliper in turn and: 

Applying caliper grease around the threads of the caliper bleed nipple 

Attaching a hose leading from a caliper bleed nipple into a catch can 

Loosening the bleed screws 

I then waited until a fair amount of brake fluid had accumulated in the catch can. This took about 15 minutes for each caliper. Fortunately I have a lot to work on with the car so I wasn’t just sitting and waiting to top up the reservoir. 

''To be continued.''
 

== Also See ==
=== Master Cylinder in the WIKI. ===

=== [[Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap]] ===
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2013-01-01T16:30:09Z

DeanG: /* Rebuilding the Master Cylinder */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler. Play it safe and tape up the inlets.
# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

[[Image:Level_Sensor_2688.jpg‎]]
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

 

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. I replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25
 

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I was unable to find an acceptable GM replacement. I sent out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.
 

'''Note:''' When sending out the master cylinder don't send anything that is not intended to be rebuilt. Remove plungers, seals for the reservoir and etc. It is easy for a re-builder to loose these items.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacuum booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy. 

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued.''
 

=== Bleeding the Brakes ===

Possibly I should have bench bled the master cylinder but I didn’t. I don’t know if I could have fit the cylinder with reservoir back into the car. Maybe someone can give it a try and add to this section. Do an internet search on “bench bleed master cylinder” if you are interested. 

To bleed the system I ended up loosening both side mounted brake pipes until fluid came drooling out. After tightening these brake pipes I gravity bled the system by going around the car to each caliper in turn and: 

Applying caliper grease around the threads of the caliper bleed nipple 

Attaching a hose leading from a caliper bleed nipple into a catch can 

Loosening the bleed screws 

I then waited until a fair amount of brake fluid had accumulated in the catch can. This took about 15 minutes for each caliper. Fortunately I have a lot to work on with the car so I wasn’t just sitting and waiting to top up the reservoir. 

''To be continued.''
 

== Also See ==
=== Master Cylinder in the WIKI. ===

=== [[Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap]] ===
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2013-01-01T16:26:57Z

DeanG: /* Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler. Play it safe and tape up the inlets.
# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

[[Image:Level_Sensor_2688.jpg‎]]
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

 

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. I replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25
 

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacuum booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy. 

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued.''
 

=== Bleeding the Brakes ===

Possibly I should have bench bled the master cylinder but I didn’t. I don’t know if I could have fit the cylinder with reservoir back into the car. Maybe someone can give it a try and add to this section. Do an internet search on “bench bleed master cylinder” if you are interested. 

To bleed the system I ended up loosening both side mounted brake pipes until fluid came drooling out. After tightening these brake pipes I gravity bled the system by going around the car to each caliper in turn and: 

Applying caliper grease around the threads of the caliper bleed nipple 

Attaching a hose leading from a caliper bleed nipple into a catch can 

Loosening the bleed screws 

I then waited until a fair amount of brake fluid had accumulated in the catch can. This took about 15 minutes for each caliper. Fortunately I have a lot to work on with the car so I wasn’t just sitting and waiting to top up the reservoir. 

''To be continued.''
 

== Also See ==
=== Master Cylinder in the WIKI. ===

=== [[Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap]] ===
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2013-01-01T16:26:41Z

DeanG: /* Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler. Play it safe and tape up the inlets.
# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

[[Image:Level_Sensor_2688.jpg‎]]
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

 

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. I replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25
 

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacuum booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy. 

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued.''
 

=== Bleeding the Brakes ===

Possibly I should have bench bled the master cylinder but I didn’t. I don’t know if I could have fit the cylinder with reservoir back into the car. Maybe someone can give it a try and add to this section. Do an internet search on “bench bleed master cylinder” if you are interested. 

To bleed the system I ended up loosening both side mounted brake pipes until fluid came drooling out. After tightening these brake pipes I gravity bled the system by going around the car to each caliper in turn and: 

Applying caliper grease around the threads of the caliper bleed nipple 

Attaching a hose leading from a caliper bleed nipple into a catch can 

Loosening the bleed screws 

I then waited until a fair amount of brake fluid had accumulated in the catch can. This took about 15 minutes for each caliper. Fortunately I have a lot to work on with the car so I wasn’t just sitting and waiting to top up the reservoir. 

''To be continued.''
 

== Also See ==
=== Master Cylinder in the WIKI. ===

=== [[Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap]] ===
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2013-01-01T16:26:25Z

DeanG: /* Unbolting the Master Cylinder */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler. Play it safe and tape up the inlets.
# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

[[Image:Level_Sensor_2688.jpg‎]]
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. I replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25
 

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacuum booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy. 

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued.''
 

=== Bleeding the Brakes ===

Possibly I should have bench bled the master cylinder but I didn’t. I don’t know if I could have fit the cylinder with reservoir back into the car. Maybe someone can give it a try and add to this section. Do an internet search on “bench bleed master cylinder” if you are interested. 

To bleed the system I ended up loosening both side mounted brake pipes until fluid came drooling out. After tightening these brake pipes I gravity bled the system by going around the car to each caliper in turn and: 

Applying caliper grease around the threads of the caliper bleed nipple 

Attaching a hose leading from a caliper bleed nipple into a catch can 

Loosening the bleed screws 

I then waited until a fair amount of brake fluid had accumulated in the catch can. This took about 15 minutes for each caliper. Fortunately I have a lot to work on with the car so I wasn’t just sitting and waiting to top up the reservoir. 

''To be continued.''
 

== Also See ==
=== Master Cylinder in the WIKI. ===

=== [[Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap]] ===
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2013-01-01T16:25:39Z

DeanG: /* Putting it all back together */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler. Play it safe and tape up the inlets.
# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

[[Image:Level_Sensor_2688.jpg‎]]
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. Plan on replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25
 

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacuum booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy. 

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued.''
 

=== Bleeding the Brakes ===

Possibly I should have bench bled the master cylinder but I didn’t. I don’t know if I could have fit the cylinder with reservoir back into the car. Maybe someone can give it a try and add to this section. Do an internet search on “bench bleed master cylinder” if you are interested. 

To bleed the system I ended up loosening both side mounted brake pipes until fluid came drooling out. After tightening these brake pipes I gravity bled the system by going around the car to each caliper in turn and: 

Applying caliper grease around the threads of the caliper bleed nipple 

Attaching a hose leading from a caliper bleed nipple into a catch can 

Loosening the bleed screws 

I then waited until a fair amount of brake fluid had accumulated in the catch can. This took about 15 minutes for each caliper. Fortunately I have a lot to work on with the car so I wasn’t just sitting and waiting to top up the reservoir. 

''To be continued.''
 

== Also See ==
=== Master Cylinder in the WIKI. ===

=== [[Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap]] ===
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2013-01-01T16:08:33Z

DeanG: /* Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler. Play it safe and tape up the inlets.
# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

[[Image:Level_Sensor_2688.jpg‎]]
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. Plan on replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25
 

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacuum booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy. 

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued.''
 

== Also See ==
=== Master Cylinder in the WIKI. ===

=== [[Brake Master Cylinder Reservoir Cap]] ===
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-09-08T15:50:09Z

DeanG: /* Preparation */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler. Play it safe and tape up the inlets.
# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

[[Image:Level_Sensor_2688.jpg‎]]
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''I need to figure out how to post my pictures. Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. Plan on replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25
 

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacuum booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy. 

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued.''
 

== Also See ==
Master Cylinder in the WIKI.
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-09-08T15:49:39Z

DeanG: /* Preparation */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler.
# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

[[Image:Level_Sensor_2688.jpg‎]]
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''I need to figure out how to post my pictures. Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. Plan on replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25
 

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacuum booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy. 

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued.''
 

== Also See ==
Master Cylinder in the WIKI.
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-09-08T15:48:23Z

DeanG: /* Putting it all back together */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

[[Image:Level_Sensor_2688.jpg‎]]
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''I need to figure out how to post my pictures. Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. Plan on replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25
 

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacuum booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy. 

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued.''
 

== Also See ==
Master Cylinder in the WIKI.
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-09-08T15:48:14Z

DeanG: /* Putting it all back together */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

[[Image:Level_Sensor_2688.jpg‎]]
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''I need to figure out how to post my pictures. Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. Plan on replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25
 

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacuum booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy. 

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued.''
 

== Also See ==
Master Cylinder in the WIKI.
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-09-08T15:48:05Z

DeanG: /* Unbolting the Master Cylinder */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

[[Image:Level_Sensor_2688.jpg‎]]
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''I need to figure out how to post my pictures. Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. Plan on replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25
 

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacuum booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy. 

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued.''

== Also See ==
Master Cylinder in the WIKI.
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-09-08T15:47:36Z

DeanG: /* Removing the low brake fluid sensor */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

[[Image:Level_Sensor_2688.jpg‎]]
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''I need to figure out how to post my pictures. Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. Plan on replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacuum booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy. 

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued.''

== Also See ==
Master Cylinder in the WIKI.
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

File:Level Sensor 2688.jpg

2012-09-08T15:44:45Z

DeanG: Brake master cylinder level sensor

Brake master cylinder level sensor

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-09-08T15:34:55Z

DeanG: /* Putting it all back together */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''I need to figure out how to post my pictures. Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. Plan on replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacuum booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy. 

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued.''

== Also See ==
Master Cylinder in the WIKI.
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-09-08T15:34:39Z

DeanG: /* Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''I need to figure out how to post my pictures. Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. Plan on replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacuum booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy. 

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued. Time to go to bed.''

== Also See ==
Master Cylinder in the WIKI.
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-09-08T15:34:10Z

DeanG: /* Removing the Brake Lines */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''I need to figure out how to post my pictures. Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. Plan on replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00 

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacume booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy.

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued. Time to go to bed.''

== Also See ==
Master Cylinder in the WIKI.
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-09-08T15:32:36Z

DeanG: /* Removing the Brake Lines */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''I need to figure out how to post my pictures. Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. Plan on replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines. There are two sizes of fittings. The big fitting is 12mm x 1.00 and the two small fittings are 10mm x 1.00

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacume booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy.

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued. Time to go to bed.''

== Also See ==
Master Cylinder in the WIKI.
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-09-08T15:30:27Z

DeanG: /* Unbolting the Master Cylinder */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''I need to figure out how to post my pictures. Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The lock nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. Plan on replacing them with elastic stop nuts 8mm x 1.25

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines.

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacume booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy.

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued. Time to go to bed.''

== Also See ==
Master Cylinder in the WIKI.
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-23T23:46:11Z

DeanG: /* Rebuilding the Master Cylinder */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''I need to figure out how to post my pictures. Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. Plan on replacing them with elastic stop nuts.

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines.

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Cleaning up the Rust and Flaking Paint ===
I cleaned the old brake fluid and gunk with a rubbing alcohol. Remove the plunger from the vacume booster prior to attacking the area with a wire brush. A wire cup probably mounted in a drill as it looks like it will do the trick. Next is a bit more cleaning followed by a coat of Ospho to neutralize the rust. A bit of semi-gloss black paint should be enough to make the show and shine happy.

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued. Time to go to bed.''

== Also See ==
Master Cylinder in the WIKI.
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T23:47:47Z

DeanG: /* Unbolting the Master Cylinder */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''I need to figure out how to post my pictures. Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

The nuts looked good until I removed them. They were a bit chewed up looking after removal. Plan on replacing them with elastic stop nuts.

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines.

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued. Time to go to bed.''

== Also See ==
Master Cylinder in the WIKI.
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T23:46:29Z

DeanG: /* Unbolting the Master Cylinder */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''I need to figure out how to post my pictures. Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut was easily accessible. The left was blocked by 2 of the brake lines.

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines.

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued. Time to go to bed.''

== Also See ==
Master Cylinder in the WIKI.
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T23:45:04Z

DeanG: /* Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''I need to figure out how to post my pictures. Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines.

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued. Time to go to bed.''

== Also See ==
Master Cylinder in the WIKI.
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T23:44:43Z

DeanG: /* Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on Federal ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

{{note|text="The direction conventions are based on sitting in the drivers seat. That is, right front means the right front of the car when sitting in the drivers seat. Not back left as if you were standing in front of the car bent over the engine compartment!"}}

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
 

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine. It is only available b purchasing a new reservoir. Hopefully it is a standard 1990s junkyard part.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.
 

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''I need to figure out how to post my pictures. Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

=== Unbolting the Master Cylinder ===
This was another tough job. The nuts are a thin variety of lock nut. The right nut

=== Removing the Brake Lines ===
If you left the brake lines attached while unbolting the master cylinder now is the time to finish removing the brake lines.

=== Removing the Master Cylinder ===
My master cylinder was stuck to the brake booster due to leakage induced rust. It took a bit of convincing to let go but once the seal was broken it came out easily.

=== Rebuilding the Master Cylinder ===
New Federal master cylinder are not available. I will try to find an acceptable GM replacement. I will also send out my old unit to White Post Restorations for a rebuild. They are a reputable company with fast service.

=== Putting it all back together ===

''To be continued. Time to go to bed.''

== Also See ==
Master Cylinder in the WIKI.
 

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T23:40:50Z

DeanG: /* Unbolting the Master Cylinder */

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T23:36:05Z

DeanG: /* Also See */

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T23:35:48Z

DeanG: /* Also See */

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T23:35:32Z

DeanG: /* Removing the low brake fluid sensor */

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T23:35:19Z

DeanG: /* Preparation */

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T23:33:59Z

DeanG: /* Putting it all back together */

Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T23:33:00Z

DeanG: /* BMC Ports */

{{stub}}

== BMC Ports ==
From my notes when I did the Master Cylinder swap, which pipes go in which hole:
 
'''Master Cylinder -> Wheel''' 
Rear Upper -> Front Right 
Rear Lower -> Rear Left 
Front Upper -> Front Left 
Front Lower -> Rear Right 

[http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=148664#148664 More Info]

[[Category:Components]]

=== Also See ===
Brake Master Cylinder in the WIKI.

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T23:29:14Z

DeanG:

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T23:28:23Z

DeanG: /* Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes */

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T23:19:15Z

DeanG: /* Removing the low brake fluid sensor */

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T23:17:33Z

DeanG: /* Replacing a Master Cylinder on North American Cars */

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T22:35:44Z

DeanG: /* Removing the low brake fluid sensor */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on North American Cars ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. - I still haven't found mine.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''I need to figure out how to post my pictures. Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

''To be continued. Time to go to bed.''

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T22:35:23Z

DeanG: /* Preparation */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on North American Cars ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler.
# Remove the vacuum hose - I had to cut mine off, don't worry it is a standard 7/16" vacuum hose.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. I still haven't found mine.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''I need to figure out how to post my pictures. Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

''To be continued. Time to go to bed.''

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T01:15:09Z

DeanG: /* Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on North American Cars ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. I still haven't found mine.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''I need to figure out how to post my pictures. Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. If I were performing this repair again I would attempt to remove the reservoir at this point.

The reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

Attempt to break the seal between the rubber gasket and the reservoir. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Gently pry between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the back gasket. A fair amount of force was necessary to achieve separation.

=== Undoing the Hydraulic Pipes ===
Breaking the fittings free required that I use "Flare Nut Wrenches". When I tried a standard open end wrench all I accomplished was to start rounding off the corners of the fitting.

Once you have broken '''all 3 fittings''' free it is probably best to move on to the 2 nuts that hold the master cylinder to the vacuum booster. I didn't and I buggered up one of the threads while loosening a nut holding the master cylinder.

''To be continued. Time to go to bed.''

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T01:01:20Z

DeanG: /* Replacing a Master Cylinder on North American Cars */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on North American Cars ==

There are major differences between the '''North American (NA)''' (also know as '''Federal''') and the Rest Of the World (ROW) master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. There is also a great amount of difference between Left and Right hand drive cars. The remainder of this portion will deal with the Federal version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

=== Preparation ===
The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder and reduce the amount of fluids to spill.

# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler.
# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.

=== Removing the low brake fluid sensor ===

# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. I still haven't found mine.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.

=== Separating the Reservoir from the Master Cylinder ===
On Federal cars the clutch cable passes between the master cylinder and the reservoir. Now the real fun starts!

''I need to figure out how to post my pictures. Insert picture of the cable passing between the 2 components.''

It would probably be best to remove the reservoir at this point. I didn't do it until I had freed the master cylinder and reservoir as a unit. After reviewing several web sites I determined that the reservoir is held in by the 2 rubber gaskets. Separating the reservoir from the master cylinder involves lots of wiggling, brute strength and a tool to pry the 2 pieces apart. Note that the rubber gaskets stay with the master cylinder.

It took considerable strength to hold the master cylinder while applying a pry force. My Internet search suggested placing the master cylinder in a vice for this operation. Wiggle the reservoir around a bit. Try gently prying between the plastic reservoir base and the rubber gaskets. Insert a tool (I used a ratchet handle) between the 2 parts forward of the forward most gasket and apply force. The forward part of the reservoir will pop out. Swing it out of the way and pry more toward the

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T00:40:36Z

DeanG: /* Replacing a Master Cylinder on North American Cars */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on North American Cars ==

There are major differences between the North American (NA) and the Rest of the World master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. The remainder of this portion will deal with the NA version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal. The first few steps are to gain access to the master cylinder.

# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don't worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won't move or fall out.
# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the inter-cooler.

Now the real fun starts.

# Remove as much of the brake fluid as you can.
# Unplug the low brake fluid sensor from the harness
# Pry off the black plastic cap. Be careful it pops right off. I still haven't found mine.
# Pull the guts of the sensor straight up. Only the black plastic cap holds in on so this is easy.

[[Image:Wiki.png|I need to figure out how to post my pictures]]

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T00:35:15Z

DeanG: /* Replacing a Master Cylinder on North American Cars */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on North American Cars ==

There are major differences between the North American (NA) and the Rest of the World master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. The remainder of this portion will deal with the NA version.

It is difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

# Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left. Don't forget to tighten this back up. Be careful when tightening this piece it is plastic and it is a Lotus only part.
# Remove the overflow bottle
# Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don’t worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won’t move or fall out.
# Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the intercooler.

[[Image:Wiki.png|I need to figure out how to post my pictures]]

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Brake Master Cylinder

2012-08-21T00:30:39Z

DeanG: /* Info */

== Info ==

7/8" bore

== Replacing a Master Cylinder on North American Cars ==

There are major differences between the North American (NA) and the Rest of the World master cylinder. The NA version has three (3) pipes, other have four (4) pipes. The remainder of this portion will deal with the NA version.

First, it is very difficult to remove the master cylinder due to stuff in the way. I am writing this after just completing the removal.

Drain the radiator – on NA cars there is a drain on the lower left.

Remove the overflow bottle

Remove the overflow bottle retain bracket. Don’t worry the nuts for the 3 small bolts are an integral part of the frame and won’t move or fall out.

Remove the inlet pipe that goes between the intake manifold and the intercooler.

[[Image:Wiki.png|This Wiki's logo]]

== Cross reference ==

Make Model Year Application

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1990-1991 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Asuna (Canada) 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Lemans-FWD 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

PONTIAC Optima 1990-1993 4-1.6L F/inj. (6)

PONTIAC Optima 1989-1990 4-2.0L F/inj. (K) w/ Power Brakes Stamped 2631

== Possible US sources ==

AC-DELCO 174-812

AC-DELCO 18M478

AC-DELCO 18M555

AUTOSPECIALTY M-13002

BECK/ARNLEY 072-8751

CARQUEST E150607

CENTRIC 130.36002

EIS E150607

GENERAL MOTORS 3492362

ITM 25-01609

LUCAS GIRLING 211526

NAPA (BRAKE) 39869

RAYBESTOS MC-39869

From [http://www.glsautoparts.com/storefrontprofiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=139287&c=0&i=232252241 GLS Autoparts]

== Possible UK sources ==

Unipart Brake Master Cylinder:

Product Code: BUYOUT0014957

Description: FPSPMH392 MASTER C

Price incl VAT: 110.09 GBP (2007 price)

[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=46&t=4813&start=20&hilit=brake+master+cylinder LEC discussion]

Dead Cylinders

2009-02-15T01:30:44Z

DeanG: Diagnosing a common problems between pairs of cylinders: 1&3, 1&4, 2&3 and 2&4

== '''Dead Cylinders''' ==

It is not uncommon to have pairs of cylinders not producing power. Once you have determined which pair of cylinders is having the problem the diagnosis becomes much easier. For a turbo car the:

== The ignition coils are common between cylinders - 1&4 and 2&3 ==

Diagnosis of the ignition system can be done by switching around the plug wires to see if the problem moves with the wires. If so it is a problem with the wires. Although having two bad wires is uncommon it is not unheard of. The next step is swapping the coil packs to see if the problem moves. If so it is a problem with a coil pack. If neither of the tests moves the problem it can be the coil pack base. This is a much more expensive part.

== The fuel injector electrics are common between cylinders - 1&3 and 2&4 ==

Dirty contacts in the connector IHC - B5 can be the problem. Also check the resistance of each injector. They should all be the same. One bad injector can cause the injector circuit in the ECU to fail (overheat) shutting down both injectors on the circuit.

Outside Mirrors

2008-11-14T00:44:00Z

DeanG:

== Problems with Parts ==

There are two problem parts in the mirror assembly: the Mirror Glass and Pivot Pins.

The problems with loose Mirror Glass are caused by its fixing and adjustment mechanism. There are several points of failure. The Mirror Glass consists of several parts glued together: the mirror, the heating element and a plastic backing plate. The backing plate snaps into a “spider” (a cross shaped universal joint that is gray in the pictures) using the elasticity of the backing plate’s plastic composition to hold on to the spider. This is what serves to hold the Mirror Glass to the car. Adjusting the mirror actually utilizes some very elegant engineering. The two Pivot Pins run in and out via engagement to electrically driven, rotating, threaded gears.

The failure points of the Mirror Glass are related to molded plastic protrusions that holds the spider. If one of these protrusions breaks, the Mirror Glass can “float” either up and down or side to side. See pictures below.

The Pivot Pin is a very complex one piece molding. On one end the Pivot Pin has very small teeth that are cantilevered off from the main body. It is theses small teeth that are forced into engagement with the rotating threaded gears, of the drive mechanism, by the natural elasticity of the plastic. Note that the cantilevering also acts to protect the teeth; it allows them to slip rather than break when driven all the way inward to the Pivot Pin’s limit of motion. On the other end of the Pivot Pin there is a ball joint with ears. This ball with ears snaps into the Mirror Glass, the ball providing articulation and the ears keeping the Pivot Pin from spinning. Therefore for the Pivot Pin to cause the mirror to move the ball must be fully seated in the socket of the Mirror Glass’ backing plate, the ears must be engaged in the slots that are molded into this socket and the cantilevered teeth must be engaged into the threads of the rotating gear.

There are two failure points on the Pivot Pins. The cantilevered tooth can and does break off. The ears on the ball are fragile and can also break.

As can be seen from the above write-up fitting the Mirror Glass to the car is somewhat difficult. It must connect to three separate pieces all at about the same time. The level of force needed to seat the Mirror Glass to the spider and the Pivot Pins to the rotating nuts is significantly different. The trick that I use is to:

1. Fix the Pivot Pins to the Mirror Glass. A dollop of silicon grease may help the function of the mirror adjustment.

2. Connect the heater element wiring

3. Carefully align the Pivot Pins and push them into their respective rotating threaded gears. Do not push them all the way in, leave plenty of play for the necessary adjustments of the next step.

4. Move the Mirror Glass so it is just starting to engage the spider. Doing this will further engage the Pivot Pins into the threads.

5. Give the Mirror Glass a good sharp whack with my hand to fully engage the spider

[[Image:Pivot_Pin.jpg]]

Pivot Pin, plastic, door mirror (A100U6056S). Although it is difficult to see, this piece is also broken. The whole thing is only about an inch (25 mm) long. Two are required per mirror.

[[Image:Mirror_Back.jpg]]

Mirror Glass, heated, convex The passenger side mirror from a left hand drive (federal) car.

[[Image:Mirror_Back_Detail.jpg]]

Note the broken ear that connects to the spider. Also note the two pedestals that have hemispherical indentations and a slot. These pedestals hold the Pivot Pins.

[[Image:Mirror_Body_Internal.jpg]]

== Problem with Fitment ==

A separate problem with the mirrors concerns the safety fold back feature. A symptom of this is that one of the mirrors seems to be positioned differently from the other and one mirror cannot be adjusted to provide a useful view. The mirror housing (my terminology, the nice red part in the associated pictures that holds the adjusting mechanism and Mirror Glass) is held to the car by two springs. Each mirror is positioned by two slotted tabs (front and back) that fit into the black plastic mirror mount (again my terminology). If the mirror housing hits something solid, like a pedestrian, it cams out of mirror mount. Hopefully; this prevents limits damage to the pedestrian and prevents breakage of the mirror.

If the mirror housing has ever been displaced from of its mount, it is possible that it did not get replaced correctly. Check this by pealing back the flexible bellows like cover and having a good look-see. If the mirror’s positioning tabs are not properly engaged it is time to use the strong arm method of repositioning them. Ensure that the door is firmly closed! Pull the mirror housing away from the car, out of engagement with the mirror mount, then gently allow it to reseat, being careful to align the tabs to the mirror mount. Warning, you will be pulling against heavy spring pressure. A good firm grasp of the mirror is necessary. During this procedure it is especially wise not to be wearing items that can scratch the paint (e.g., rings, metal belt buckles, …).

== General Warnings and Cautions ==

I’m no mechanic. I will not be held responsible for death, injury mechanical damage and etc. If you need a real mechanic to help you fix your Lotus I suggest you go find one.

Roll the windows down. Working near expensive, possibly sharp glass never seems like a good idea.

Take off your jewelry! Not only is it a good general safety practice, you will be working near glass. See the previous line.

Don’t wear anything that will scratch the paint. See the previous two lines.

Use your head. With the engine off, put the car in gear and set the parking brake.

Good Luck

--[[User:DeanG|DeanG]] 00:34, 14 November 2008 (UTC)

File:Mirror Back.jpg

2008-11-14T00:41:14Z

DeanG: uploaded a new version of "Image:Mirror Back.jpg"

Has a broken ear that connects to the spider.