WikiLEC - User contributions [en]

Reversing light switch

2021-06-14T09:07:04Z

Dapinky:

== Location ==

Accessible from the top of the engine:

[[File:Disconnectreversinglightswitch-1-.jpg | 150px]]

[[File:ReversingLightSwitch%28small%29.png]]

== Donor vehicles ==

Chevrolet Spectrum 1985 - 1988

Geo Spectrum 1989

Geo Storm 1990 - 1993

Isuzu I-Mark 1985 - 1989

Isuzu Impulse 1989 - 1992

Isuzu Stylus 1991 - 1993

== Cross References ==

=== OEM ===

[[File:Reversing_Light_Switch_OEM.PNG | 150px]]

GM 89057288

Isuzu 8-94132-638-0

=== Others ===

[[File:Reversing_Light_Switch.PNG | 150px]]

AC Delco E2225D

Napa NS5863

Standard Motor Products LS292

File:ReversingLightSwitch(small).png

2021-06-14T09:02:43Z

Dapinky:

Oil filter

2020-09-03T10:02:46Z

Dapinky: /* Oz sourced */

An interesting bit of [http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html background reading] (to be taken at face value) before rushing out and buying the cheapest filter! Apparently, the filter is common to all 4 cylinder Hondas from 1985 - 2007 (not confirmed) so sourcing one shouldn't be a problem. Some reported equivalents are as follows:

== OEM ==

'''Crosland oil filter number 672'''

This filter is currently (2009) being supplied by Lotus.

== UK sourced ==

Champion F110

www.Japspareparts.co.uk (duff link) ADS72101

[http://www.knfilters.com/oil_filter/lotus_elan.aspx K&N] HP-1004 with 25mm hex key for '''very''' easy removal.

PURFLUX LS489A = 86 71 002 038 available from Renault dealers. (Quality AND cheap!)

Fram PH6811

Mahle OC-230

== French sourced ==

Purflux LS 489 A

== US sourced ==

Mobil (Mobil 1) M1-104

== Oz sourced ==

Purolator PureOne PL14459

AC PF1127

Motorcraft FL-810

Castrol MaxPro Plus CMP3593A

QuakerState QS3593B

WIX 51334ST

MANN (german company): part # W811/80

== additional information following research by Barry Dal Herbert (Sept 2020)==

..... please note, you are advised to check all information for yourself, but this seems right!

Here are yet more possible oil filters for Elaners not in Oz or NZ. NOTE THE CAUTION IN THE NEXT LINE!

M100 oil filter equivalents gleaned from the Internet (frequently eBay listings, so NOT nessecelery correct!)

Lotus Elan-M100
Isuzu 1588cc 4XE1 engine

Said to fit: Mitsubishi 3000GT & Starion Turbo & Lotus Elan M100:

Clean Filters DO327

Filtron OP633

Fram PH9448

Purolator L10193

≈≈≈≈≈≈≈

ACDelco ACO7

Crosland 672

Fram B100E6085S

Fram PH3593

Fram PH6811

Fram XG3593A

K&N Filters HP-1004

Mann W 811/80***

Mobil 1 M1-104

Purolator L14459

Purolator PL14459

Ryco Syntec Z79AST

Ryco Z79A

Sakura Oil Filter C1032

Valvoline V039

Wesfil Oil Filter WZ79

Wix 51334

== Specification ==
(K&N HP-1004)

Height: 3.41 in (87 mm)

Outside Diameter: 3.14 in (80 mm)

Thread Inside Diameter: M20 x 1.5-6H

PSI Relief Valve: 11-17

Anti Drain Back Valve: Yes

Style: Canister

Bypass Valve: Yes

Weight: 0.6 lb (0.3 kg)

[[Category:Components]]
[[Category:Maintenance]]

Search the forum

2015-02-26T10:24:35Z

Dapinky: New page: [http://wikilec.9600.org/index.php/Forum_Searching redirect to this page]

[http://wikilec.9600.org/index.php/Forum_Searching redirect to this page]

Forum Searching

2015-02-26T10:21:58Z

Dapinky:

'''Please feel free to add to this page any tips on searching the forum'''

While a basic search would involve simply typing the appropriate words in the search box, searching the different Forums individually is always an option.

Each MAJOR topic on the Index page is considered to be a forum

Just click on the Forum heading and that forum's top page will offer a "search this forum" on the left side by the Forum name.

Also, drilling down to any of the topics in that forum will also offer a "search this topic"

For multi word searches, put the string within "quotes like this". That exact group will be all that comes up.

If you are looking for a small word, anything less than 3 letters will need an asterisk* to actually search anything.

If you want to search multiple, similar terms and get hits on ANY of them, you can put them between parentheses (separated,by,commas)

OR separated|by|the pipe character and posts with any of the terms will be shown.

If you do a broad search and find a lot of results that share a term you don't want included, include that term in the search with a - (negative sign) in front (-term).

So, if you want to read about Piper Exhausts, you could search on "piper exhaust". Searching +piper and +exhaust will get you every post with piper and every post with exhaust. To find all exhaust posts WITHOUT piper, search exhaust -piper

Even after creating a very broad search, the search box at the top left will let you re-search within THOSE results.

These are very general rules and I am sure there are more available.

You can also click on ADVANCED Search and use the form there to pick all of your search options.

That is also how you search for posts by a member. Use the Search for author: search box.

'''Taken from a post by John Callaghan (BritCarNut)'''

== As an adendum to the above, there are so many different 'commands' that can be used to "simplify" searches of many databases (including Google) which rely on what is known as the "Boolean Operators" - most of the more common (and therefore, useful) ones can be found
[http://www.lib.berkeley.edu/TeachingLib/Guides/Internet/Boolean.pdf here] ==

S2000 seat repair & heaters

2015-02-03T21:53:06Z

Dapinky: New page: As promised, I’ve done a bit of a write-up on fitting seat heaters to the Honda S2000 seats – it’s a fairly simple, but a bit fiddly process, and like with any such enterprise, I’m...

As promised, I’ve done a bit of a write-up on fitting seat heaters to the Honda S2000 seats – it’s a fairly simple, but a bit fiddly process, and like with any such enterprise, I’m sure there are more than one way to do the job, but this worked for me.

Only basic tools are needed:-

14mm spanner
12mm spanner
Wire cutters (side cutters)
Long-nosed pliers
Craft knife
Drill (4mm and 10mm bits)

And if you want/need to add extra padding/support to the seat side bolsters, then you may need a bit of foam rubber, closed-cell foam sheet and spray adhesive.

Each seat is originally held together with metal hog rings, but unless you are confident/competent with the necessary tools and consumables, it is far easier to use plastic cable ties to re-assemble them – I used 4.8mm x 295mm as I found the longer they are, the easier some applications are – but shorter ones will work just as well (as they only actually need to be 30mm or so, but will give you less working room!)

You will need 25 for each seat base and 10 for each seat back (assuming that you don’t need to replace any extra bits of the cover – I did, but only because I needed to do a slight repair to a worn back bolster.

If you’re good at maths, you’ll have worked out that you’ll need 70 cable ties (£1 for a hundred from my local sell-everything shop!)

There are many different seat heaters for sale, but they all work/fit in a similar way – basically, just a fibre pad with elements glued into them.

I used these ones http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191192606945?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
For a number of reasons – price, adjustable heating level, availability, complete wiring kit included….

The whole loom is plug-and-play – just fit the 4 pads in the seat bases/backs, plug them into the wiring loom, fit loom into car – job done! The loom only has 4 wires which need connecting into the car loom – permanent live, fused live (via ignition), and 2 earth connections. It is fused and relay operated (all fitted to the loom already), and there is enough length to the wires to enable you to fit the switch wherever you want (within reason) – I haven’t actually fitted it yet, but intend to fit the switch in the centre console, near to the mirror switch (but it can go in a spare position in the dash if you have one (or wish to fit it there).

Okay, so I have only shown one seat (left side) being worked on, but the other one is a mirror image!

To dismantle the seat, you need to realise that the seat runners are different each side, only one actually removes from the seat, the other (containing the reclining mechanism) is part of the seat back, and whilst it unbolts from the base, there is no need to try and remove it from the seat back (if you can get it apart, good luck in trying to replace it!!)

Undo these 3 fittings, and the seat runner will come away – the other side just needs the 14mm bolt and 12mm nut removing.
[[Image:2(copy).jpg]]

You’ll now have 3 bits:- base, back and runner/bracket.
[[Image:33.jpg]]

The base is made up from 3 basic bits, the metal ‘tray’, the foam padding, and the leather/vinyl cover. Firstly, remove the 13 metal hog rings which attatch the cover to the metal tray.
[[Image:4.jpg]]

Then you can lift the cover/foam away from the tray.
[[Image:5.jpg]]

The cover is attached by 12 hog rings to wire fittings built in to the foam – they need to be carefully removed to avoid tearing the material, and to avoid pulling the wires out of the foam.
[[Image:6.jpg]]

Then you’re left with these bits.
[[Image:7.jpg]]

If your foam is in good nick, you can ignore the next few pictures, but you’ll probably find that (depending on their age/use) the seats could do with a bit more support – if they aren’t damaged, then simply cut a 10mm wide channel along the length of the bolster to insert some extra support.
[[Image:8.jpg]]

But chances are that the foam will have disintegrated a bit around the outer bolster (as that’s where all the pressure goes when you get in and out of the car) – and it may have come away from the base material near where the metal bar part of the tray fits.
[[Image:9.jpg]]

Trim all of the ‘powdered’ foam away from any damaged areas – cut it back to sound foam.
[[Image:10.jpg]]

Use spray adhesive to stick new foam into any hollowed out bits – leaving a 10mm channel for the extra support bits.
[[Image:11.jpg]]

Use 10mm thick closed-cell foam sheet to fill the channel – held in with spray adhesive – leave it sticking out a bit proud until the glue sets.
[[Image:12.jpg]] [[Image:13.jpg]]

Once the glue has set, trim it to the original seat profile with a sharp knife
[[Image:14.jpg]]

A piece of 2mm foam sheet glued over the top of the bolster tidies it up a bit, but probably isn’t necessary (it does help to ‘fill out’ the leather cover though!)
[[Image:15.jpg]]

Okay, back to the heater fitting – you will notice that the actual pad is made up of 3 separate heater elements – you need to cut a couple of small slots out of the unheated bit to line up with the 2 wire fittings in the foam (where the hog rings came out).
[[Image:16.jpg]]

Make a hole through the back of the foam base where the wires will pass through – then temporarily replace the foam onto the tray and mark a corresponding hole. Remove the foam and drill a slot through the tray for the wire.
[[Image:17.jpg]]

It should all line up nicely – if so, we can move on to fitting the heater pad…
[[Image:18.jpg]]

Firstly, fit a couple of cable ties to the foam (note which way round I’ve done them – feed under from the front of the seat – it will probably work the other way round, but having tried it both ways, this worked best for me)
[[Image:19.jpg]]

Feed the cable ties through the holes you made in the heater pad, then remove the backing from the self-adhesive strips along the pad edges and stick it to the foam.
[[Image:20.jpg]]

Fit the rest of the cable ties around the outer edge of the seat – this is the fiddly bit! – easiest to slip them through the wire in the foam, and pull through with long-nose pliers or tweezers. Don’t pull any of them tight yet!!!! (this is where you’ll realise that the longer cable ties were a good idea)
[[Image:21.jpg]]

With the 12 cable ties loosely fitted, it should look something like this (viewed from the front of the seat). Reach in from this direction and tighten up the 2 cable ties which pass through the heater – the excess plastic will be facing you, and can be easily trimmed.
[[Image:22.jpg]]

It should look a bit like this – the rest of the cable ties are easily reached from the outside, and can be tightened up and trimmed.
[[Image:22a.jpg]]

Then carefully pull the leather over the foam (which is back in the tray by now!)- manoeuvring the foam to properly fill the bolster cover…. It may still look a bit baggy, but it will tighten up.

From underneath, fit the 13 cable ties loosely (leave the 2 rear ones until you have routed the wire towards the edge which will be the centre of the car)
[[Image:123.jpg]]

Pull the cable ties to tension/fit the seat cover.
[[Image:124.jpg]]

Job done!
[[Image:125.jpg]]

The seat back is actually a lot easier to do than the base – there is a plastic ‘U’ shaped channel which runs along the width of the seat to fasten the cover to itself (you’ll know what I mean when you see it!).
[[Image:26.jpg]]

Once the cover is separated, the centre ‘cushion’ simply lifts up, leaving the bolsters alone – the leather is attached (hinged?) at the top, so don’t pull it away!

There are 4 hog rings each side….
[[Image:27.jpg]]

…. and 2 in the middle.
[[Image:28.jpg]]

Then the foam simply lifts away.
[[Image:29.jpg]]

The heater pad is fitted the same way as the seat base – (you may need to trim an inch off the top – but don’t cut into the carbon fibre heating element.)
[[Image:30.jpg]]

Feed the cable ties from the centre towards the edges….
[[Image:31.jpg]]

Again, tighten up the 2 which pass through the heater pad first, then the outer 8.

If you feed them through in the direction I did, then you can easily trim them, and carefully spin the plastic ‘loops’ round so that the lumpy bit sits in the hollowed out bits of the foam.
[[Image:32.jpg]]

Run the wire out at the side before looping the plastic back into the ‘U’ channel to join the front and back leather cover.
[[Image:033.jpg]]

That’s it – job done – I haven’t taken pictures of putting the seat back and base together – you should be able to do that bit (as Haynes manual would say “Refitting is the reverse of removal”).

File:033.jpg

2015-02-03T21:52:35Z

Dapinky:

File:32.jpg

2015-02-03T21:51:00Z

Dapinky:

File:31.jpg

2015-02-03T21:50:32Z

Dapinky:

File:30.jpg

2015-02-03T21:50:19Z

Dapinky:

File:29.jpg

2015-02-03T21:50:02Z

Dapinky:

File:28.jpg

2015-02-03T21:49:47Z

Dapinky:

File:27.jpg

2015-02-03T21:49:32Z

Dapinky:

File:26.jpg

2015-02-03T21:44:37Z

Dapinky:

File:125.jpg

2015-02-03T21:42:30Z

Dapinky:

File:124.jpg

2015-02-03T21:42:12Z

Dapinky:

File:123.jpg

2015-02-03T21:41:54Z

Dapinky:

File:22a.jpg

2015-02-03T21:39:41Z

Dapinky:

File:026.jpg

2015-02-03T21:34:50Z

Dapinky:

File:025.jpg

2015-02-03T21:34:27Z

Dapinky:

File:024.jpg

2015-02-03T21:34:12Z

Dapinky:

File:023.jpg

2015-02-03T21:32:45Z

Dapinky:

File:25.jpg

2015-02-03T21:26:01Z

Dapinky:

File:24.jpg

2015-02-03T21:25:49Z

Dapinky:

File:23.jpg

2015-02-03T21:25:35Z

Dapinky:

File:22.jpg

2015-02-03T21:25:18Z

Dapinky:

File:21.jpg

2015-02-03T21:25:02Z

Dapinky:

File:20.jpg

2015-02-03T21:20:02Z

Dapinky:

File:19.jpg

2015-02-03T21:19:49Z

Dapinky:

File:18.jpg

2015-02-03T21:19:38Z

Dapinky:

File:17.jpg

2015-02-03T21:19:22Z

Dapinky:

File:16.jpg

2015-02-03T21:19:00Z

Dapinky:

File:15.jpg

2015-02-03T21:13:42Z

Dapinky:

File:14.jpg

2015-02-03T21:13:31Z

Dapinky:

File:13.jpg

2015-02-03T21:13:20Z

Dapinky:

File:12.jpg

2015-02-03T21:13:09Z

Dapinky:

File:11.jpg

2015-02-03T21:12:57Z

Dapinky:

File:10.jpg

2015-02-03T21:11:38Z

Dapinky:

File:9.jpg

2015-02-03T21:11:27Z

Dapinky:

File:8.jpg

2015-02-03T21:11:16Z

Dapinky:

File:7.jpg

2015-02-03T21:11:02Z

Dapinky:

File:6.jpg

2015-02-03T21:10:50Z

Dapinky:

File:5.jpg

2015-02-03T21:10:37Z

Dapinky:

File:4.jpg

2015-02-03T21:10:15Z

Dapinky:

File:33.jpg

2015-02-03T21:08:05Z

Dapinky:

File:2(copy).jpg

2015-02-03T21:03:36Z

Dapinky:

File:2.jpg

2015-02-03T21:01:49Z

Dapinky:

File:1 (Copy).jpg

2015-02-03T20:59:16Z

Dapinky:

Key (replacement items)

2014-09-24T21:50:55Z

Dapinky: New page: Following the 'current trend' of many cars using 'Flip keys' for the ignition, I have discovered that the 'blanks' for our cars are given the code number of YM28 (It's a GM pattern, but al...

Following the 'current trend' of many cars using 'Flip keys' for the ignition, I have discovered that the 'blanks' for our cars are given the code number of YM28 (It's a GM pattern, but also listed for Lotus - and as the ignition barrel is a Vauxhall/Opel Astra part, it's hard to think that it's wrong!)

Have a look at http://www.rclick.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=412 You'll need to click the GM logo, and then there are other options - the YM28 on the right is the one you need (well, it says it's for a Lotus, and looked right to me!)

The 'blanks' are £2 each, and they can also supply a selection of fobs to suit your alarm system - or just a blank one if you prefer.

Seatbelt retraction repair

2011-02-19T02:06:45Z

Dapinky: New page: '''Time to effect repair – approx 60 minutes for the first one, 30 for the second!''' '''Tool/parts list:-''' 17mm socket Phillips screwdriver Small flat-bladed screwdriver(s) Stanl...

'''Time to effect repair – approx 60 minutes for the first one, 30 for the second!'''

'''Tool/parts list:-'''

17mm socket

Phillips screwdriver

Small flat-bladed screwdriver(s)

Stanley knife

Long-nosed pliers

Sharp scissors/shears

Blowlamp

Old knife

Glue gun

Silicone/PTFE grease

Cleaning solvent (suitable for use on seatbelt webbing)

'''Okay, here goes......'''

Since owning the red elan, every time the car has been laid up for a while, there has been a problem with the seat belts failing to retract, which appears to be a common problem, which has traditionally been remedied by getting a better S/H unit, or finding a new one amongst the pile of Rocking Horse Poo at Donnington or Stoneleigh.......

....until Sherlock Speck found a source for the originals......

Okay, so back to the story, I gained access to the seatbelts by undoing the B post covers, pulled all the bits of crap and doghair out of the mechanism, and gave it a good spray of WD40 (with the belt fully extended, as it wouldn't retract).
Then by winding it in by hand, pulling it out, etc etc etc it freed up enough to make it work.

Until the next time, when it was all repeated again - in fact it got to the stage where i never actually bothered to secure the B post covers.

Each time, it would work well but would last a shorter time before needing to be re-done - but as it was only a 2 minute job, it didn't worry me. When it got to the stage that I had to 'feed' the belts back in, I knew it was time for another squirt.

And so it went on, until this week when it is time for the car to be used again - no problems with any of the usual suspects (brakes etc), but the seat belts were back to failing to retract - out with the WD40! Job done.

Then I had a thought...... why not try a more permanent remedy, after all, how hard can it be????

The answer is "not at all hard, as long as you follow a few basic principles".

'''Firstly, the Health & Safety warning/disclaimer.....'''

''....Seat belts are a safety item and legal requirement - if you ain't confident/competent - leave them alone and buy a new one! The process involves some nasty chemicals so only use in a well-ventilated area. There are some sharp bits under tension - go steady.''

Okay, if you are confident/competent/too tight to buy a new one, you don’t need any special tools.

Firstly, clean the actual belt - if the webbing has got damp (there’s always condensation in a UK elan!) it will expand a bit, and may not fully wind in tight enough to fully retract.
I used carb/choke cleaner, but brake cleaner could also work (naphtha-based solvents) - it needs to be something which wont degrade the material/stitching. Spray the stuff onto the webbing and allow to evaporate (it won't take long - but don't breath the fumes). it will tighten up the fabric and allow it to settle back nicely.

This may be all that is required in your car.

It will probably help, but may not be enough, so move on to the next stage.

The basic principle of any seat belt (and specifically the elan), is that as you look at it, there are 5 bits to consider - the actual belt material, the bit which grabs the belt in case of excerpted inertia, the metal cage/plastic roller, then the 2 plastic boxes on the sides of the cage.

The belt will now be clean and (hopefully), unfrayed - if SLIGHTLY frayed, it will probably be because the mechanism isn't exactly vertical, and the belt edges are rubbing in normal operation - run a blow-lamp up the frayed edge to get rid of stray hairs - dont do it when there is still solvent on the belt, or it will be another elan less on the roads :roll:

If the mechanism isn't allowing the belt to feed freely, it needs re-positioning - a 17mm socket to loosen the bolt, then correctly position it rotationally so that the belt edges don't rub.

Make sure the grabber is clean (carb cleaner again), and moves to grab the belt when you give it a tug.

So far, so good. Now consider the 2 plastic boxes - as you look from the front, the one on the left contains all the bits for the safety mechanism (inertia balls/springs) - DONT TRY TO OPEN IT - you will end up with bits all over the place and it ain't gonna go back together again (I learned that years ago on a different car - luckily I had access to numerous spares). Just give the outer ends of the roller spindle a squirt of silicone/PTFE spray - I have used spray grease with PTFE, and also tried dashboard shine (silicone spray) and both work well. - DONT USE WD40 - it washes the correct grease out and leads to the scenario I started with!!!!!

The right-hand box is the retractor mechanism and the source of most problems - this is where you need to be.

Now, if you have never squirted WD40 into the mechanism, (after all, what sort of idiot would do that :roll: ), then the chances are that the moving parts will already be adequately lubricated, but the spring needs a bit more tension after 20 odd years of use. Therefore, you don’t need to take it off the cage, or dismantle it at all.

The principle is that there is a large 'clock spring' which tensions up as the roller turns to let the belt out, and the stored energy retracts the belt once it is released. The roller is on a spindle which turns a plastic cog attached to the inside end of the spring - hence the need for silicone lube, not WD40, plastic running against plastic will heat up from friction during operation of the belt and cause it to stick (think headlamp motor bushes).

A bit of extra lube may be all that is required to make it work.

If not, on we go......

Generally, the belt will either not retract at all, go slowly, go in most of the way then stop, need feeding in (or anywhere in between) - all need the same thought process as explained, but some will be fixed without the need to go any further.

Okay, so assuming that it retracts either slowly (should be fixed with a clean belt, or lube), or most likely, goes mostly in but not fully.

The spring needs a bit more tension due to old age.

Pull the belt fully out and hold it out by looping it round the seat or steering wheel - you will see that the roller is white nylon (or some other such plastic), with a slit running through it for the belt - luckily, in Lotus tradition, it is lightened by having lots of cut out bits!!!

With the belt fully out, place a small screwdriver (or similar) in one of the holes and release the tension on the belt to allow the roller to jam the screwdriver against the frame (it isn't hugely tensioned anyway, but you need to keep the tension it has got!). You can now feed the belt through the roller and you will see that the end is just a doubled-over thickness of belt.

You need to cut the end off with a good pair of scissors/shears/knife as close to the end as you can, then pull the belt back so it is off the roller - don't pull from the top, or it may go out through the grabber bit and it can be awkward to re-thread it due to the limited clearance (as required to make it work). you can leave the webbing lying on the floor - it'll only be a minute till you put it back anyway - remember not to twist it - it needs to go back as it came out.

Now add some tension to the spring by taking out the screwdriver and winding the roller a bit tighter using your fingers and/or a couple of screwdrivers - DONT LET IT GO or you'll probably have to go to step 5!!!!!

As a guide, it will probably only need a couple of full turns to make a great difference.

For your information, there is enough spring movement between fully unwound to fully wound to give 21 turns of the roller, the seat belt going from fully retracted to fully extended moves the roller 11 full turns (and a bit). My belts both had 16 turns of tension on them when I started.

I turned the rollers 3 full turns (easily achieved with just your fingers) and then stuck the screwdriver back in to hold it.

Feed the webbing back through the slot (there is a right and wrong side - it's obvious when you look at it as one side is wide enough for the double thickness end, and the other is slightly offset to allow for a belt thickness as it winds up) and pull about a couple of foot of webbing to allow working space.

You need to finish the end off so it will not pull out of the roller (obviously!).

I did it with a minimum of tools/expertise, but a knowledge of the mechanics/physics/forces involved.

Simply fold over the end by about 5mm and hold in a clamp (pliers, vice, toolmakers clamp etc). Heat up an old knife with a blowlamp flame (could use a soldering iron I suppose), slip the hot blade between the 2 thicknesses of webbing to melt the ends together (don't get it too hot or allow the material to degrade/weaken) and press together. Tidy up any frayed ends with the hot blade, then pull the webbing back through the roller to seat it properly.

Feed the slack webbing back through the cage so that the belt is fully extended, remove the screwdriver and allow the belt to fully retract like it always used to do/does on other peoples cars!

Marvel at how simple it all was, and why you have put up with it for so long........

.....unless you've been a tw@t and used WD40 - in which case it needs re-lubricating, or clumsy/unlucky and the roller has gone 'twang' and fully unwound, in which case the plastic cog has probably come off the end of the spring.

If you've got this far, then it gets a bit fiddly, but is straightforward - it is easiest to do the work on the bench, but that means unthreading the webbing totally and then taking the cage out (one 17mm bolt).
It is possible with leaving the webbing in, but without special tools (and luck) you'll never get the roller tensioned properly without taking it out anyway (I know - I tried :roll: ).

Okay, so the cage is out and the roller is loose in both directions, that means the spring has come off the cog! If it will still tension up, then it needs lubing - either way, it has to come apart.

Don't think that you can just take the outer cover off with 4 little clips - it don't work!

There are plastic pins which go through the outer, inner and then into the frame, heat expanded to keep them in place :roll:

You need to cut the excess plastic off the inside of the frame with a Stanley knife and/or narrow chisel so that the whole plastic box comes away (it may need a bit of a lever with a screwdriver to separate it from the frame (because of the plastic pins), and will go twang if the spring is still under tension (which it shouldn't be!).

With the black box (retractor mechanism) separated, it needs opening up - a bit of careful levering with a small screwdriver, and trimming with a Stanley knife, the outer cover will come off (or in my case, pivot open on one remaining plastic pin).

Be careful here, there isn't much inside, so unlikely to loose anything, but the spring will still be under some compression tension within the casing - if it flies out then you'll have a couple of meters of coiled sharp edged metal ribbon flying about - common sense says to wear gloves and goggles (I didn't, 'cos i needed dexterity in my fingers!), so take a risk, but don't blame me if you slice a bit out of your finger!

If it flies out, then it is easy enough to get back in, and it is obvious which way it goes, and how it fits into the casing (just remember, put it the right way round so that it winds up when the central cog goes clockwise!).

If it hasn't flown across the garage, then it's a billy bonus, and you just need to wipe up the WD40, and lube all moving plastic surfaces/faces with silicone grease (or I suppose Vaseline may do) - but not too much.

Fit the inner cog onto the end of the spring (it will only clip in one way, and if you can't work it out, then this job probably isn't for you!!!).

Refit the outer half of the casing, and make sure that it is all working by giving the spline a couple of turns using a screwdriver - it should unwind under its own steam, so don't let it fly, or the cog will come off again :banghead:

Now you know its all working, put it back onto the cage - you may need to 'weld' the two halves together if you've broken the tiny clips using a hot blade again - but I just gave it a bit of a dab with a hot glue gun.

Again, keeping the retractor on the frame will need a dab of hot glue on the inside of the plastic pins (not too much, or it will hit the roller).

Take it back out to the car and follow earlier instructions on how to tension the roller and refit the webbing (can be done with the frame fitted in car, or still in your hands, locking it with a screwdriver until webbing is in situ, then fitting it back in - I found that to be easiest, and is no problem as long as it doesn't go twang when handling it - to prevent this, fit the frame to car without any tension on it, then just wind it up and fit the webbing.

Make sure the frame is fitted so that the webbing will retract without rubbing the side of the frame - a couple of degrees out of rotation is enough to mess it all up......

....now you can marvel at how easy it was, and promise yourself never to use WD40 on moving plastic parts again.