WikiLEC - User contributions [en]

Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS)

2008-05-18T07:38:07Z

Candles:

Lotus part number A100E6373S is the Coolant Temperature Sensor (CTS) which reports the engine coolant temperature to the [[ECM]]. It consists of a thermistor in a sealed package which screws into the thermostat housing.

Thermistors are negative temperature coefficient devices and from the Lotus parts manual EMK.4, the Elan has the following characteristics:

'''Temp(°C) / Resistance(ohms)'''

'''100 / 185'''

'''70 / 450'''

'''38 / 1800'''

'''20 / 3400'''

'''4 / 7500'''

'''-7 / 13500'''

'''-18 / 25000'''

'''-40 / 100700'''

This matches a thermistor with characteristics of R0=2700 ohms and Beta=3977 such as [http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/Passive+Components/Resistors,+Thermistors+&+Potentiometers/VISHAY+BC+COMPONENTS/238164055272/displayProduct.jsp?sku=1187038 this one for £1.42] but you'll need a package (~£50?) to put it in.

Having discussed this with some Esprit owners, and with reference to their parts manual EMH.4, it turns out they have the same CTS thermistor characteristics {as well as the same [[ECM]]}. Their part number is A910E6928F and is available from [http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/partsandaccessories/srchRes.asp?Car_ID=8&Type1_ID=5&srch=A910E6928F&Submit=search SJ sportscars for ~12GBP] whereas ours is [http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/partsandaccessories/srchRes.asp?Car_ID=9&Type1_ID=5&srch=A100E6373S&Submit=search closer to 50GBP]! This is unhelpful though at the present time (2008) as they are on backorder and Lotus "can't find a replacement".

[http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5287 ESM did some research] and found data for the [http://www.mindspring.com/~fierosketch/osg/coolant-sensor.html Pontiac Fiero] has the same CTS thermistor characteristics. Cross referencing with a US parts site [http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=290&PTSet=A Parts America] gives several options for the 1988 Fiero CTS. This site is useful in that you can view a part and then see which vehicles it fits. The Fiero CTS is common with the Isuzu Impulse RS and Geo Storm (as suspected but I don't think it has been proven until now) and more importantly for UK owners, a car available in the UK - the Isuzu Trooper (1986-7 with 2.3l engine and 1992-2001 with 3.2l & 3.5l V6 engines) as originally suggested by ESM.

They have been sourced from Vauxhall for ~15GBP with the ACDelco part number 25036979.

'''A quick guide to removal and refitting:'''

1) Mark position of CAS with felt-tip pen on cam cover.

2) Remove CAS by undoing the socket-head bolt and all electrical plugs (there is one underneath). Expect some oil seepage so have a clean rag ready.

3) Unplug 2 way connector from CTS. NB the temp gauge sender is the one right next to the engine block at the front and the fan switch is the one furthest away on the thermostat housing with a white plug.

4) Unscrew.

5) Watch about 2 litres of coolant widdle out over the floor.

6) Screw in new CTS.

7) Plug in.

8) Reinstall CAS, lining up your felt-tip mark.

9) Plug in all wires.

10) Check you haven't left any tools around the place, then test. It would be worthwhile having Elanscan running at this stage to verify you have a good CTS reading.

If you are a real die-hard perfectionist, you should now check the engine base timing as you will have disturbed it. It isn't a bad thing to do regularly anyway.

[[Category:Components]]

File:Nicerack.jpg

2008-03-12T21:13:45Z

Candles:

Steering Rack Removal

2008-03-12T21:13:17Z

Candles:

== Removal of the Steering Rack ==

You've decided to remove the steering rack? Well firstly I'd have to ask why as it is a fairly major undertaking for the home mechanic not owing to the complexity, but owing to the access without a 4-post lift. But if it has to come off, then so be it:

'''Preparation'''

Park the car on a flat paved surface and prepare to get it as high as you can at the front. I achieved this by driving it up ramps at the back, then jacking the front. When you jack at the front, note that you will need to support with safety-certified axle stands as you'll be working underneath. Also, you will be removing the cross member, hence access will be required to the bolts and the normal raft supporting points become mobile once the cross member is removed. The best way is to jack from the raft lifting point, then support with the normal body lifting points. It needs to be secure as it is likely that many of the bolts will be very tight.

'''1) Removal of Cross Member'''

This is covered in the starter motor section of the electrical manual. You are looking to remove this:
[[Image:crossmem.jpg]]

Once I had removed the crossmember I removed the exhaust as it was being replaced anyway. I'm uncertain as to whether it is necessary but it certainly improves the access.

'''2) Disconnecting the Steering Column'''

Dive head first into the driver's footwell and first remove the two bolts securing the plate at the base of the sterring column to the bulkhead. Then undo the pinch bolt on the UJ at the base of the steering column. At this point the manual suggests that you undo the lower UJ from inside the car. I found this impossible so I didn't.

'''3) Disconnecting Track Rod Ends'''

Having removed the roadwheels, split the track rod end ball joints. If you have trouble undoing the nut because the taper is rotating, don't fret; rejoice as this means the joint will split easily. Simply squeeze it together with a g-clamp and the friction will be sufficient to undo the nut. Once the nuts are off, tap the end of the taper with a rubber hammer or use a ball joint splitter.

'''4) Accessing Hydraulic Pipes'''

The hydraulic pipes from the pump/reservoir attach to the rack in a very awkward spot. To access the unions which will probably be seized, you need to lower the right-hand suspension raft. This sounds like a nightmare, but actually isn't too bad:

a) Undo anti-roll bar ball joint and separate.

b) Remove bolt securing the ARB ball joint and suspension strut to the lower wishbone.

c) Undo the three nuts securing the suspension strut-top to the chassis, accessed under the grommets in the engine bay.

d) Undo the four clamping bolts holding the shock absorber to the two halves of the yoke that connects it to the wishbone.

e) You should now be able to carefully remove the shock absorber/spring as a complete unit by wiggling it downwards.

''At some point in here you will probably have to remove the wheel arch liner. Mine was already out, so I don't know what access it affects.''

f) Securely wire the upper wishbones to some part of the chassis above. Use wire that is shorter than the brake hose, but allows the suspension assembly to move around.

g) Undo the bolt connecting the tubular steadying arm to the chassis attachment point.

h) Undo the bolt that secures the suspension raft to the chassis at the top. It is the one that clamps through two large plates.

i) Lower raft gently downwards allowing the weight to settle on the wires you fitted in step (f).

j) Ensure the brake hose is unaffected.

'''5) Removing Hydraulic Pipes'''

You should now be able to see the various hydraulic lines connecting to the rack. You need to remove the two larger diameter pipes that route upwards rather than the smaller ones that disappear along the rack body. Clean the area around the unions with a wire brush, compressed air, gunk etc until you can get some WD-40 or similar into the union threads. I couldn't find a metric spanner to fit either union, so I ended up using an adjustable which wasn't ideal as the size of the jaws limited the amount I could turn the union on each flat. I'm guessing they are imperial as the cross-reference for the part is Land Rover! Pre-position a drip-tray of some description to catch the PAS fluid, then start with the lower union and remove them both. The flex in the hoses higher up is sufficient to pull them clear of the rack body with some effort.

'''6) Finally! Rack Removal'''

Now undo the extremely tight rack-chassis mounting bolts. The bolt at the gearbox side gets trapped against the gearbox when fully undone so don't use a ring spanner on it or you won't get it back until the rack drops clear. From the driver's side, lower the pinion out of the aperture that leads to the steering column and slide clear. I found it easier to work from the driver's side and lower, then pull towards me. This could be done in a single garage, withdrawing the rack to the driver's side. I found that the gearbox end bolt fell clear from the trapped position at this stage.

'''7) Other Tasks'''

The access now available underneath is unsurpassed without engine removal. Use this opportunity to recondition the starter, waxoyl the chassis, change the oil etc etc etc. You will never again be able to get in as easily as this!

[[Image:rackaccess.jpg]]

'''8) Refitting'''

Refitting is the reverse of removal however note the following:

a) Install the intermediate shaft onto the new rack to avoid having to do it through the driver's footwell. There is a specific orientation for the shaft to aid steering feel which is detailed in the manual. If the lower UJ is at all stiff or has play, then replace it. It is the same as many Land Rovers and cross referenced here: [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7200&highlight=]

b) You may wish to shorten one of the rack-chassis bolts very slightly to allow it to be refitted next to the gearbox. Otherwise it is almost impossible to reinstall it.

c) Thoroughly clean the PAS hydraulic pipes and leave the blanks in place until the last minute to avoid dirt ingress.

d) Use threadlock on all bolts and tighten to the correct torque: 120nm for the rack-chassis bolts.

e) Refitting the raft is easiest with either an assistant or a hydraulic jack to carefully lift it into position. Then refit the bolt with threadlock and tighten to xxx nm.

[[Image:nicerack.jpg]]

Steering Rack Removal

2008-03-03T14:23:30Z

Candles:

== Removal of the Steering Rack ==

You've decided to remove the steering rack? Well firstly I'd have to ask why as it is a fairly major undertaking for the home mechanic not owing to the complexity, but owing to the access without a 4-post lift. But if it has to come off, then so be it:

'''Preparation'''

Park the car on a flat paved surface and prepare to get it as high as you can at the front. I achieved this by driving it up ramps at the back, then jacking the front. When you jack at the front, note that you will need to support with safety-certified axle stands as you'll be working underneath. Also, you will be removing the cross member, hence access will be required to the bolts and the normal raft supporting points become mobile once the cross member is removed. The best way is to jack from the raft lifting point, then support with the normal body lifting points. It needs to be secure as it is likely that many of the bolts will be very tight.

'''1) Removal of Cross Member'''

This is covered in the starter motor section of the electrical manual. You are looking to remove this:
[[Image:crossmem.jpg]]
Once I had removed the crossmember I removed the exhaust as it was being replaced anyway. I'm uncertain as to whether it is necessary but it certainly improves the access.

'''2) Disconnecting the Steering Column'''

Dive head first into the driver's footwell and first remove the two bolts securing the plate at the base of the sterring column to the bulkhead. Then undo the pinch bolt on the UJ at the base of the steering column. At this point the manual suggests that you undo the lower UJ from inside the car. I found this impossible so I didn't.

'''3) Disconnecting Track Rod Ends'''

Having removed the roadwheels, split the track rod end ball joints. If you have trouble undoing the nut because the taper is rotating, don't fret; rejoice as this means the joint will split easily. Simply squeeze it together with a g-clamp and the friction will be sufficient to undo the nut. Once the nuts are off, tap the end of the taper with a rubber hammer or use a ball joint splitter.

'''4) Accessing Hydraulic Pipes'''

The hydraulic pipes from the pump/reservoir attach to the rack in a very awkward spot. To access the unions which will probably be seized, you need to lower the right-hand suspension raft. This sounds like a nightmare, but actually isn't too bad:

1) Undo anti-roll bar ball joint and separate.
2) Remove bolt securing the ARB ball joint and suspension strut to the lower wishbone.
3) Undo the three nuts securing the suspension strut-top to the chassis, accessed under the grommets in the engine bay.
4) Undo the four clamping bolts holding the shock absorber to the two halves of the yoke that connects it to the wishbone.
5) You should now be able to carefully remove the shock absorber/spring as a complete unit by wiggling it downwards.

''At some point in here you will probably have to remove the wheel arch liner. Mine was already out, so I don't know what access it affects.''

6) Securely wire the upper wishbones to some part of the chassis above. Use wire that is shorter than the brake hose, but allows the suspension assembly to move around.
7) Undo the bolt connecting the tubular steadying arm to the chassis attachment point.
8) Undo the bolt that secures the suspension raft to the chassis at the top. It is the one that clamps through two large plates.
9) Lower raft gently downwards allowing the weight to settle on the wires you fitted in step 7. Ensure the brake hose is unaffected.

'''Removing Hydraulic Pipes'''

You should now be able to see the various hydraulic lines connecting to the rack. You need to remove the two larger diameter pipes that route upwards rather than the smaller ones that disappear along the rack body. Clean the area around the unions with a wire brush, compressed air, gunk etc until you can get some WD-40 or similar into the union threads. I couldn't find a metric spanner to fit either union, so I ended up using an adjustable which wasn't ideal as the size of the jaws limited the amount I could turn the union on each flat. I'm guessing they are imperial as the cross-reference for the part is Land Rover! Pre-position a drip-tray of some description to catch the PAS fluid, then start with the lower union and remove them both. The flex in the hoses higher up is sufficient to pull them clear of the rack body with some effort.

'''Finally! Rack Removal'''

Now undo the extremely tight rack-chassis mounting bolts. The bolt at the gearbox side gets trapped against the gearbox when fully undone so don't use a ring spanner on it or you won't get it back until the rack drops clear. From the driver's side, lower the pinion out of the aperture that leads to the steering column and slide clear. I found it easier to work from the driver's side and lower, then pull towards me. This could be done in a single garage, withdrawing the rack to the driver's side. I found that the gearbox end bolt fell clear from the trapped position at this stage.

'''Other Tasks'''

The access now available underneath is unsurpassed without engine removal. Use this opportunity to recondition the starter, waxoyl the chassis, change the oil etc etc etc. You will never again be able to get in as easily as this!

[[Image:rackaccess.jpg]]

'''Refitting'''

Refitting is the reverse of removal however note the following:

1) Install the intermediate shaft onto the new rack to avoid having to do it through the driver's footwell. There is a specific orientation for the shaft to aid steering feel which is detailed in the manual. If the lower UJ is at all stiff or has play, then replace it. It is the same as many Land Rovers and cross referenced here: [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7200&highlight=]
2) You may wish to shorten one of the rack-chassis bolts very slightly to allow it to be refitted next to the gearbox. Otherwise it is almost impossible to reinstall it.
3) Thoroughly clean the PAS hydraulic pipes and leave the blanks in place until the last minute to avoid dirt ingress.
4) Use threadlock on all bolts and tighten to the correct torque: 120nm for the rack-chassis bolts.
5) Refitting the raft is easiest with either an assistant or a hydraulic jack to carefully lift it into position. The refit the bolt with threadlock.

File:Rackaccess.jpg

2008-03-03T13:04:02Z

Candles:

Steering Rack Removal

2008-03-03T13:03:41Z

Candles:

== Removal of the Steering Rack ==

You've decided to remove the steering rack? Well firstly I'd have to ask why as it is a fairly major undertaking for the home mechanic not owing to the complexity, but owing to the access without a 4-post lift. But if it has to come off, then so be it:

'''Preparation'''

Park the car on a flat paved surface and prepare to get it as high as you can at the front. I achieved this by driving it up ramps at the back, then jacking the front. When you jack at the front, note that you will need to support with safety-certified axle stands as you'll be working underneath. Also, you will be removing the cross member, hence access will be required to the bolts and the normal raft supporting points become mobile once the cross member is removed. The best way is to jack from the raft lifting point, then support with the normal body lifting points. It needs to be secure as it is likely that many of the bolts will be very tight.

'''1) Removal of Cross Member'''

This is covered in the starter motor section of the electrical manual. You are looking to remove this:
[[Image:crossmem.jpg]]

'''2) Disconnecting the Steering Column'''

Dive head first into the driver's footwell and first remove the two bolts securing the plate at the base of the sterring column to the bulkhead. Then undo the pinch bolt on the UJ at the base of the steering column. Working your way up the column, remove the two bolts securing the steering column tilt mechanism to the crossbeam. The steering column will now be completely mobile apart from the wiring; be careful! At this point the manual suggests that you undo the lower UJ from inside the car. I found this impossible so I didn't.

'''3) Disconnecting Track Rod Ends'''

Having removed the roadwheels, split the track rod end ball joints. If you have trouble undoing the nut because the taper is rotating, don't fret; rejoice as this means the joint will split easily. Simply squeeze it together with a g-clamp and the friction will be sufficient to undo the nut. Once the nuts are off, tap the end of the taper with a hammer or use a ball joint splitter.

'''4) Accessing Hydraulic Pipes'''

The hydraulic pipes from the pump/reservoir attach to the rack in a very awkward spot. To access the unions which will probably be seized, you need to lower the right-hand suspension raft. This sounds like a nightmare, but actually isn't too bad:

1) Undo anti-roll bar ball joint and separate.
2) Remove bolt securing the ARB ball joint and suspension strut to the lower wishbone.
3) Undo the three nuts securing the suspension strut-top to the chassis, accessed under the grommets in the engine bay.
4) Undo the four clamping bolts holding the shock absorber to the two halves of the yoke that connects it to the wishbone.
5) You should now be able to carefully remove the shock absorber/spring as a complete unit by wiggling it downwards.

''At some point in here you will probably have to remove the wheel arch liner. Mine was already out, so I don't know what access it affects.''

6) Securely wire the upper wishbones to some part of the chassis above. Use wire that is shorter than the brake hose, but allows the suspension assembly to move around.
7) Undo the bolt connecting the tubular steadying arm to the chassis attachment point.
8) Undo the bolt that secures the suspension raft to the chassis at the top. It is the one that clamps through two large plates.
9) Lower raft gently downwards allowing the weight to settle on the wires you fitted in step 7. Ensure the brake hose is unaffected.

'''Removing Hydraulic Pipes'''

You should now be able to see the various hydraulic lines connecting to the rack. You need to remove the two larger diameter pipes that route upwards rather than the smaller ones that disappear along the rack body. Clean the area around the unions with a wire brush, compressed air, gunk etc until you can get some WD-40 or similar into the union threads. I couldn't find a metric spanner to fit either union, so I ended up using an adjustable which wasn't ideal as the size of the jaws limited the amount I could turn the union on each flat. I'm guessing they are imperial as the cross-reference for the part is Land Rover! Pre-position a drip-tray of some description to catch the PAS fluid, then start with the lower union and remove them both. The flex in the hoses higher up is sufficient to pull them clear of the rack body with some effort.

'''Finally: Rack Removal'''

Now undo the extremely tight rack-chassis mounting bolts. The bolt at the gearbox side gets trapped against the gearbox when fully undone so don't use a ring spanner on it or you won't get it back until the rack drops clear. From the driver's side, lower the pinion out of the aperture that leads to the steering column and slide clear. I found it easier to work from the driver's side and lower, then pull towards me. This could be done in a single garage, withdrawing the rack to the driver's side. I found that the gearbox end bolt fell clear from the trapped position at this stage.

'''Other Tasks'''

The access now available underneath is unsurpassed without engine removal. Use this opportunity to recondition the starter, waxoyl the chassis, change the oil etc etc etc. You will never again be able to get in as easily as this!

[[Image:rackaccess.jpg]]

'''Refitting'''

Refitting is the reverse of removal however not the following:

1) Install the intermediate shaft onto the new rack to avoid having to do it through the driver's footwell. There is a specific orientation for the shaft to aid steering feel which is detailed in the manual. If the lower UJ is at all stiff or has play, then replace it. It is the same as many Land Rovers and cross referenced here: [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=7200&highlight=]
2) You may wish to shorten one of the rack-chassis bolts very slightly to allow it to be refitted next to the gearbox. Otherwise it is almost impossible to reinstall it.
3) Thoroughly clean the PAS hydraulic pipes and leave the blanks in place until the last minute to avoid dirt ingress.

Steering Rack Removal

2008-03-03T12:41:28Z

Candles:

Steering Rack Removal

2008-03-03T10:10:52Z

Candles:

Steering Rack Removal

2008-03-03T09:54:51Z

Candles:

File:Crossmem.jpg

2008-03-03T09:54:08Z

Candles: Engine crossmember.

Engine crossmember.

Steering Rack Removal

2008-03-03T09:53:10Z

Candles: Removing the Steering Column

Cooling Fans

2008-01-11T14:23:57Z

Candles: /* Alternatives */

==Background==

The cooling fans are not bespoke to the Élan they were obtained from the Valeo parts bin. The Lotus Élan utilizes two such fans. As for commonality the same unit is in common use on the Renault 25 AR4 Automatic transmission, Renault Trafic II, Renault Trafic III and possibly the Twingo..

Lotus do not stock these assemblies as they are now obsolete.

== Common Faults ==

The two most common faults are heavy corrosion and the electric fans tend to seize.

[[Image:Old fan.jpg]]

== Replacement Parts==

OEM replacements are available by [http://www.aepdirect.com / AEP based in Scotland]. It's best to phone them direct and quote their Ref No. If they have no stock you can place the fan on back order.

They can provide a new OEM cooling fan and shroud manufactured by Valeo for approximately £68 each, or try
[http://shop.bild.de/search.do;jsessionid=1B52F7C019099C0477B421489A8375A7.cooceode120?userQuery=1&searchText=7700795199+&categoryId= THIS SITE]. (They had stock as of Jan 2008).

Renault can provide a new OEM cooling fan and shroud manufactured by Valeo for approximately £176:85 each.

[[Image:New fan 1 529.jpg]][[Image:New fan 3 207.jpg]][[Image:New fan 4 593.jpg]]

== OEM Part Numbers ==

Old Lotus part number A100K0017F (Now obsolete)
New Lotus part number A100K6024F (Now obsolete)

AEP DIRECT CF627

Autogamma GA201627

Valeo OEM 7700795199

UK Renault 7700795199
UK Renault 7700802142

FrigAir 0509.1627
Aimrad 0509.1627

If you have problems do an internet search for the Valeo Part Number only 7700795199

=== Information and Tech links ===

http://www.autogamma.com/Catalogo.asp?currentCode=GA201627&ricerca=CodiceAutogamma

http://www.autogamma.com/img.asp?id=387&ricerca=CodiceAutogamma

http://www.frigair.com/en/dettaglio_prodotto.php?MARCA_AUTO=RENAULT&MODELLO_AUTO=R25&MOTORIZZAZIONE=2.0%20TS-GTS&cod_frigair_dettaglio=0509.1627&DETTAGLIO_SEZIONE_TERMICA=1

== Testing the old fans ==

The warning signs

Your fans should start to work when reaching 3/4 on the temperature gauge scale.

Test 1

The first step is to remove the connector from the switch on the thermostat housing and ground it directly. The fans should begin to work.

If the fans come on you either have a stuck thermostat or a bad switch.

Test 2

If the fans still do not come on, it's time to inspect fuses.

There are 3 fuses in the circuit, one for the supply to the fans relay (30A), and one for each fan individually (15A). Chances are if neither fan comes on it will be the main fuse or the cooling fan relay. The good news is the relay and the 15A fuses are above the instrument cluster, the bad news is the 30A fuse is in the maxi-fuse box on the tunnel top behind the dash.

Test 3

Check for poor earth connection to top bolt of Rad support frame.

Test 4

Check for corrosion on all inline connectors and fuses

== Fitting the new fans ==

[[Category: Incomplete]]

== Alternatives ==

Candles has a pair of [http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/products/ProductDetail.asp?cls=MSPORT&pcode=PCTCF22 Demon Tweak fans]. The CF22 were selected as they were the only size that would fit on the back of the radiator. They are supplied with 'quickmounts' which are like cable ties for radiators and make the mounting very easy and corrosion free. Wiring them in requires cutting the supplied plugs off the fans and soldering or crimping the plugs from the stock fans onto them. The supplied thermostat and harness can be discarded.

[[Category: ReplacementParts]]

File:Access.JPG

2007-07-30T18:38:32Z

Candles:

User:Candles

2007-07-30T18:23:55Z

Candles: New page: User Candles from LEC.

User Candles from LEC.

File:5thgear.jpg

2007-07-30T18:20:28Z

Candles: