WikiLEC - User contributions [en]

Stainless Steel Gear Shift Cables

2012-04-24T12:17:10Z

Bobbrown:

'''Stainless Steel Gear Shift Cables'''

Fitting Guide

The job is fairly straight forward and follows the manual for the most part and is easier with two people
when removing and replacing the cables through the tunnel.

When removing the old cables tie a piece of string or similar on the end before you remove them this
makes the job easier when you come to install the new cables as you have something on the end to help
guide them.

Having removed the cables from the gear lever there is one job to do before installing the new ones.

On the cross gate lever is a 6mm pin this needs to be removed as it is replaced with a bolt.

To remove it support the lever with a socket and hit the top of the pin with a hammer, it should come
out easily as it is only held by three small spot welds.

The cable outer is now held in place with a cir clip which will retain the parts better than the E clip or
wire clip and will be a lot stronger as it’s rated for 750kg.

The two cables are different lengths and are marked the longer one is the cross gate and the shorter the
fore/aft cable it is very important to ensure they are fitted to the correct lever.

Also one of the M8 rod ends has the two flats machined off, this one needs to be on the cross gate other wise it could foul on
the gearbox selector shaft.

It is as well to fit these before you install the cables in the tunnel as it helps identify them.

When installing the new cables it is important to ensure you retain enough travel on the lever, the cross
gate is not that difficult as the cable has more travel than the lever so as long as you have full travel and
some to spare in the cable in either direction it will be fine.

The fore/aft cable is a little more tricky as there is more travel on the lever than the cable, you need to
ensure that when the cable is central and forward (3rd gear) there is about 10mm gap under the lever
between it and the captive nut.

Do not try to have it all the way forward as there is motion on the fore/aft lever that is not used more so back than forward so do not expect to get full travel.

Note: do not be tempted to set them with the leave right back in 2nd, 4th or reverse.

There are misalignment spacers fitted to all but the cross gate on the gear lever end and these are
needed to ensure there is enough movement in the rod ends, the rod ends them selves have more
movement than is really needed at 26 degrees as the cables them selves can only move 16 degrees in
total.

Once you are happy with the lever position the locking nuts can be tightened.

With the aid of either a piece of wire or a cable tie secure the gear lever in the position it would be in if
5th gear was selected, this makes getting the cables though the tunnel a lot easier.

Remove gear shift bracket on the gear box even the later S2 style one as it gives more room to get the
cables through the bulkhead.

Threading the cables back through can be a bit tricky and the string will now become obvious as does
having two people one pushing, one pulling, and both “jiggling it a bit” as you do so, so to speak.

Once the cables are through the bulkhead and are roughly in position fit the bracket to the gearbox.

The cables can then be fitted to the bracket making sure you slot the correct one into the correct hole on
the bracket and ensure they are not twisted between the lever and the bracket.

To slot them in place you will need to pull the rubber seal back on the rod guide and remove one of the nuts and a washer so that
the cable can be pushed back to allow the cable to enter the slot.

You can now fit the second washer, nut and seal, hand tight on the nuts at this point as they will need to
be adjusted.

Remove the original pins from both gearbox levers, with Dave’s short shift only one can be removed as
the other is welded in. You can now fit the rod ends to the levers with the misalignment spacers and the
special washers with the square on them.

Once you have every thing in place it is time to adjust it all which is as per the manual.

Check you can get all the gears but do not be surprised if you cannot get reverse as it is a non sycro
gear and some times needs things to be turning to engage.

As a final check ensure you have at least 2 to 3mm or so of rod showing after the thread on the cable
rod when the lever is in third gear.

There is a bit to play with as the travel on the gear box is less than the travel on the cables about 12mm on the fore/aft cable and 19mm on the cross gate.

This is to ensure the cables do not bottom out in side the outer.

Once happy the gearbox end can be locked in place, the two 24mm nuts can be difficult to tighten as
there is not a lot of room and in an ideal world a crows foot spanner would be the ideal tool but an
double open end spanner should work as they are shorter than the standard combination ring and open
end.
Note: A crow’s foot spanner can be made up from an old 24mm open ended spanner and an old 3/8”
socket, cut the spanner and weld the socket on or you could use a shortened 24mm open ended spanner.

Now off for a test drive and see if you can feel the difference.

Stainless Steel Gear Shift Cables

2012-04-24T12:12:07Z

Bobbrown: Stainless Steel Gear Shift Cables

'''Stainless Steel Gear Shift Cables'''

The job is fairly straight forward and follows the manual for the most part and is easier with two people
when removing and replacing the cables through the tunnel.

When removing the old cables tie a piece of string or similar on the end before you remove them this
makes the job easier when you come to install the new cables as you have something on the end to help
guide them.

Having removed the cables from the gear lever there is one job to do before installing the new ones.

On the cross gate lever is a 6mm pin this needs to be removed as it is replaced with a bolt.

To remove it support the lever with a socket and hit the top of the pin with a hammer, it should come
out easily as it is only held by three small spot welds.

The cable outer is now held in place with a cir clip which will retain the parts better than the E clip or
wire clip and will be a lot stronger as it’s rated for 750kg.

The two cables are different lengths and are marked the longer one is the cross gate and the shorter the
fore/aft cable it is very important to ensure they are fitted to the correct lever.

Also one of the M8 rod ends has the two flats machined off, this one needs to be on the cross gate other wise it could foul on
the gearbox selector shaft.

It is as well to fit these before you install the cables in the tunnel as it helps identify them.

When installing the new cables it is important to ensure you retain enough travel on the lever, the cross
gate is not that difficult as the cable has more travel than the lever so as long as you have full travel and
some to spare in the cable in either direction it will be fine.

The fore/aft cable is a little more tricky as there is more travel on the lever than the cable, you need to
ensure that when the cable is central and forward (3rd gear) there is about 10mm gap under the lever
between it and the captive nut.

Do not try to have it all the way forward as there is motion on the fore/aft lever that is not used more so back than forward so do not expect to get full travel.

Note: do not be tempted to set them with the leave right back in 2nd, 4th or reverse.

There are misalignment spacers fitted to all but the cross gate on the gear lever end and these are
needed to ensure there is enough movement in the rod ends, the rod ends them selves have more
movement than is really needed at 26 degrees as the cables them selves can only move 16 degrees in
total.

Once you are happy with the lever position the locking nuts can be tightened.

With the aid of either a piece of wire or a cable tie secure the gear lever in the position it would be in if
5th gear was selected, this makes getting the cables though the tunnel a lot easier.

Remove gear shift bracket on the gear box even the later S2 style one as it gives more room to get the
cables through the bulkhead.

Threading the cables back through can be a bit tricky and the string will now become obvious as does
having two people one pushing, one pulling, and both “jiggling it a bit” as you do so, so to speak.

Once the cables are through the bulkhead and are roughly in position fit the bracket to the gearbox.

The cables can then be fitted to the bracket making sure you slot the correct one into the correct hole on
the bracket and ensure they are not twisted between the lever and the bracket.

To slot them in place you will need to pull the rubber seal back on the rod guide and remove one of the nuts and a washer so that
the cable can be pushed back to allow the cable to enter the slot.

You can now fit the second washer, nut and seal, hand tight on the nuts at this point as they will need to
be adjusted.

Remove the original pins from both gearbox levers, with Dave’s short shift only one can be removed as
the other is welded in. You can now fit the rod ends to the levers with the misalignment spacers and the
special washers with the square on them.

Once you have every thing in place it is time to adjust it all which is as per the manual.

Check you can get all the gears but do not be surprised if you cannot get reverse as it is a non sycro
gear and some times needs things to be turning to engage.

As a final check ensure you have at least 2 to 3mm or so of rod showing after the thread on the cable
rod when the lever is in third gear.

There is a bit to play with as the travel on the gear box is less than the travel on the cables about 12mm on the fore/aft cable and 19mm on the cross gate.

This is to ensure the cables do not bottom out in side the outer.

Once happy the gearbox end can be locked in place, the two 24mm nuts can be difficult to tighten as
there is not a lot of room and in an ideal world a crows foot spanner would be the ideal tool but an
double open end spanner should work as they are shorter than the standard combination ring and open
end.
Note: A crow’s foot spanner can be made up from an old 24mm open ended spanner and an old 3/8”
socket, cut the spanner and weld the socket on or you could use a shortened 24mm open ended spanner.

Now off for a test drive and see if you can feel the difference.

WikiLEC talk:Site support

2012-04-24T12:06:33Z

Bobbrown: Stainless Steel Gear Cables

'''Stainless Steel Gear Shift Cables'''

Fitting instructions

The job is fairly straight forward and follows the manual for the most part and is easier with two people
when removing and replacing the cables through the tunnel.

When removing the old cables tie a piece of string or similar on the end before you remove them this
makes the job easier when you come to install the new cables as you have something on the end to help
guide them.

Having removed the cables from the gear lever there is one job to do before installing the new ones.

On the cross gate lever is a 6mm pin this needs to be removed as it is replaced with a bolt.

To remove it support the lever with a socket and hit the top of the pin with a hammer, it should come
out easily as it is only held by three small spot welds.

The cable outer is now held in place with a cir clip which will retain the parts better than the E clip or
wire clip and will be a lot stronger as it’s rated for 750kg.

The two cables are different lengths and are marked the longer one is the cross gate and the shorter the
fore/aft cable it is very important to ensure they are fitted to the correct lever.

Also one of the M8 rod ends has the two flats machined off, this one needs to be on the cross gate other wise it could foul on
the gearbox selector shaft.

It is as well to fit these before you install the cables in the tunnel as it helps identify them.

When installing the new cables it is important to ensure you retain enough travel on the lever, the cross gate is not that difficult as the cable has more travel than the lever so as long as you have full travel and some to spare in the cable in either direction it will be fine.

The fore/aft cable is a little more tricky as there is more travel on the lever than the cable, you need to ensure that when the cable is central and forward (3rd gear) there is about 10mm gap under the lever between it and the captive nut.

Do not try to have it all the way forward as there is motion on the fore/aft lever that is not used more so back than forward so do not expect to get full travel.

Note: do not be tempted to set them with the leave right back in 2nd, 4th or reverse.

There are misalignment spacers fitted to all but the cross gate on the gear lever end and these are needed to ensure there is enough movement in the rod ends, the rod ends them selves have more movement than is really needed at 26 degrees as the cables them selves can only move 16 degrees in total.

Once you are happy with the lever position the locking nuts can be tightened.

With the aid of either a piece of wire or a cable tie secure the gear lever in the position it would be in if
5th gear was selected, this makes getting the cables though the tunnel a lot easier.

Remove gear shift bracket on the gear box even the later S2 style one as it gives more room to get the
cables through the bulkhead.

Threading the cables back through can be a bit tricky and the string will now become obvious as does
having two people one pushing, one pulling, and both “jiggling it a bit” as you do so, so to speak.

Once the cables are through the bulkhead and are roughly in position fit the bracket to the gearbox.
The cables can then be fitted to the bracket making sure you slot the correct one into the correct hole on
the bracket and ensure they are not twisted between the lever and the bracket.

To slot them in place you will need to pull the rubber seal back on the rod guide and remove one of the nuts and a washer so that
the cable can be pushed back to allow the cable to enter the slot.

You can now fit the second washer, nut and seal, hand tight on the nuts at this point as they will need to
be adjusted.

Remove the original pins from both gearbox levers, with Dave’s short shift only one can be removed as
the other is welded in.

You can now fit the rod ends to the levers with the misalignment spacers and the special washers with the square on them.
Once you have every thing in place it is time to adjust it all which is as per the manual.

Check you can get all the gears but do not be surprised if you cannot get reverse as it is a non sycro
gear and some times needs things to be turning to engage.

As a final check ensure you have at least 2 to 3mm or so of rod showing after the thread on the cable
rod when the lever is in third gear. There is a bit to play with as the travel on the gear box is less than
the travel on the cables about 12mm on the fore/aft cable and 19mm on the cross gate. This is to ensure
the cables do not bottom out in side the outer.

Discounts

2011-12-04T16:05:22Z

Bobbrown: /* LEC members' codes: */

== Rock Auto==
[http://www.rockauto.com RockAuto] and [http://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com current 5% discount codes].

===LEC members' codes:===
{|border=1
!Code
!Expiry
|-
|[http://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com 45359772109447]
|January 29, 2012
|-
|[http://www.rockauto.com 28373052343857]
|April 25, 2010
|-
|[http://www.rockauto.com 39774633276251]
|November 14, 2010
|-
|[http://www.rockauto.com 68368725676094]
|November 6, 2011
|}

<pre>
Thank you for being a www.RockAuto.com customer! To show our appreciation, we have a special discount for you.

Here's how to use it:
* Get a current discount code from the link above.
* Enter your code in the "How did you hear about us" line of the shopping cart.
* If you are using our traditional HTML catalog, please click the "Set" button to the right of the field.
* Your discount will automatically appear, subtracted from your order total.

**NOTE: We sometimes get calls from people who put the word "discount"
in front of their code and do not get the discount. Please enter ONLY
the discount code, no other words or numbers.**

The discount takes 5% off our already-low prices, and there's no limit
on order size or the number of orders. Use the code for your next
order, and share the code with friends, neighbors, relatives, the guy at
the corner garage--anyone you know who works on cars or trucks.
</pre>

REMEMBER THE WIKI!

Category:Brakes

2009-07-11T08:21:02Z

Bobbrown:

All about brakes
[[Category:Components]]

Category:Brakes

2009-07-11T08:20:51Z

Bobbrown:

All about brakes
[[Category:Components]]
a

Handbrake cables

2009-07-11T08:16:49Z

Bobbrown:

Following on from a group buy of handbrake cables you can now order these direct from the supplier if required.

Cost is slightly higher than the group buy as the group buy had a volume discount.

The company is

Speedy Cables Ltd

Abercrave

Swansea

SA9 1SQ

Tel 01639 732213

email cables@speedycables.com

web www.speedycables

Their cable reference is 117832 for the standard cable and 117833 is for the Hi-spec conversion

Prices are as of July 2009 £33.00 each + vat + delivery.

--[[User:Bobbrown|Bobbrown]] 11:23, 1 July 2009 (UTC)

Handbrake cables

2009-07-11T08:16:30Z

Bobbrown:

Following on from a group buy of handbrake cables you can now order these direct from the supplier if required.

Cost is slightly higher than the group buy as the group buy had a volume discount.

The company is

Speedy Cables Ltd

Abercrave

Swansea

SA9 1SQ

Tel 01639 732213

email cables@speedycables.com

web www.speedycables

Their cable reference is 117832 for the standard cable and 117833 is for the Hi-spec conversion
prices are as of July 2009 £33.00 each + vat + delivery.

--[[User:Bobbrown|Bobbrown]] 11:23, 1 July 2009 (UTC)

Handbrake cables

2009-07-01T11:29:41Z

Bobbrown:

Handbrake cables

2009-07-01T11:26:55Z

Bobbrown:

Following on from a group buy of handbrake cables you can now order these direct from the supplier if required.

Cost is slightly higher than the group buy as the group buy had a volume discount.

The company is

Speedy Cables Ltd

Abercrave

Swansea

SA9 1SQ

Tel 01639 732213

email cables@speedycables.com

web www.speedycables

Their cable reference is 117832 or it may be under my name Robert Brown either way they should be able to locate the details.

There are two cable outer lengths one is for the Hi-spec conversion and the other is for the standard brakes. The standard brakes have a shorter outer than the Hi-spec conversion.
--[[User:Bobbrown|Bobbrown]] 11:23, 1 July 2009 (UTC)

Handbrake cables

2009-07-01T11:23:13Z

Bobbrown: New page: Following on from a group buy of handbrake cables you can now order these direct from the supplier if required. Cost is slightly higher than the group buy as the group buy had a volume d...

Following on from a group buy of handbrake cables you can now order these direct from the supplier if required.

Cost is slightly higher than the group buy as the group buy had a volume discount.

The company is

Speedy Cables Ltd

Abercrave

Swansea

SA9 1SQ

Tel 01639 732213

email cables@speedycables.com

web www.speedycables

Their cable reference is 117833 or it may be under my name Robert Brown either way they should be able to locate the details.

There are two cable outer lengths one is for the Hi-spec conversion and the other is for the standard brakes. The standard brakes have a shorter outer than the Hi-spec conversion.
--[[User:Bobbrown|Bobbrown]] 11:23, 1 July 2009 (UTC)

Engine oil

2009-04-16T13:19:21Z

Bobbrown:

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11127&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0 Also see LEC…]

* The original Lotus Service notes recommends 3.5 litres including filter change of 10W/30 SF or SG, 15W/40 SF or SG, Mobil One 5W/50 SG

* If it were a new car the oil choice would be straight forward, just follow the manufacturer’s recommendation. Unfortunately the Lotus recommendation is 17 years old and oil has moved on a bit.

== What the numbers mean… 10W/40 etc ==

* The numbers show the relationship between modern multi grade oils and the SAE single grades.

While your lawnmower engine, being small, slow running, and used mainly when it’s warm, will run happily on SAE 30, a car engine needs something thin enough to pump instantly to the camshaft when cold, but thick enough to maintain the pressure when hot.

10W 40 means its starts from cold with the same flowing characteristics as a SAE 10 single grade oil, but rather than thinning as the temperature rises as an SAE 10 would, it thins no more than a SAE 40. Similarly a 5W 50 starts off as a 5 when the ambient temperature is -18°C and doesn’t thin anymore than a SAE 50 by the time the oil is boiling.

You might wonder why you would ever need a 0W, it’s the same as a 5W with an extra bit of something that keeps it pourable under even worse conditions.

We used to consider Duckham’s 20W 50 as being a thick oil and now we have fully synthetic 10W 60 being recommended. Fortunately the synthetic oils flow better generally, so the comparison is not exact.

In the middle of the UK 10W-40 would be a good choice. 5W-30 would be more appropriate for Norway and 15W-50 for North Africa. Then there are track days…

== Some of the things said on the subject of engine oil. ==

* Castrol say:

Changing the oil every 6 months Magnatec 10W-40 SS would do a good job. Doing any track days, EDGE 10W-60 FS would offer better performance and protection.

For the extra cost they recommend EDGE 10W-60 FS anyway, but do the oil change once a year for low mileage cars, as it will easily do the mileage.

They also recommend EDGE Turbo Diesel 5W-40 and EDGE 5W-30

* On reading some of the posts in early February 2008 Castrol added…

It seems that everyone uses different oil and each are happy so in theory you can use what you like!! Lots of oils will work - but the question is, which one works the best? At the end of the day, everyone will have their favourite, and everyone will have an opinion, but as long as everyone feels they are using what's best for them - great.

Regarding the "don't use a xW-60, but an xW- 50 is ok" - the difference between a 50 and a 60 at 100 degrees is 2.5 centistokes ( i.e. not much ) whereas an xW-40W is around 13 centistokes so quite a bit thinner !

The Formula RS has been replaced by the EDGE Sport 10W-60 which is Castrol's ultimate high performance oil for high powered and tuned engines - We also produce EDGE 10W-60 which is a retail version of TWS Motorsport , a specific BMW formulation for their "M" series engines ( the only oil BMW recommend for the M series for ultimate performance and protection )

Looking at my specifications lists Lotus are now recommending as an initial viscosity, a 10W-60 for Élan Se and S2 (89 – 95) with a note “MINIMUM high temperature viscosity of 50 to 60”

For temperate climates – the note says 10W-30 to 5W-50

Castrol offer a 10W-60 because of our extensive knowledge and experience with high performance engines (take the BMW F1 team cars we lubricate as an example) and we feel that this product offers the best high performance option, based on protection rather than just efficiency.

We also recommend this oil for TVR, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati etc – We haven't had any issues at all with its use that I am aware of.

* ESM says:

Fully synthetic oils are the best by some distance. Friction losses in engines drops by around 4% with a synthetic oil - this gives more power and more economy. They also are the most effective at limiting wear - which is why many engines are best run in with a non-synthetic.

Some older engines (I mean older, I don't mean late 80s) need a more viscous oil because the bearing clearances are larger. Chris Foulds doesn't like synthetics too much largely because of this.

Different oils swell/shrink seals differently. So if you have a borderline seal. One oil may be worse than another for loss through that seal. Which oil minimises your loss may vary depending on which seal causes the leak because all seals aren't all of the same composition. Oil formulation is scarily basic when it comes to seal compatibility; they are formulated with a mixture of elements known to cause either seal shrinkage or swell which are balanced to break even(ish). So worse oil loss isn't necessarily a synthetic vs semi or non-synthetic oil issue more a formulation to formulation issue (if Mobil 1 gives you issues another synthetic 0W40 oil might be better).

Synthetic oils can achieve low cold viscosities. So HVLs will pressurise faster with them, although any drips from leaky seals will be worse for the same reason. I'd certainly go 0W for choice. I prefer a W40 because it will give greater engine protection than a W30 (as a result of its higher viscosity) and the last approval Lotus issued was for a 0W40 not a 0W30. That's not to say a W30 won't be ok and it will incur less in the way of viscous losses but I'd say the Elan's engine is from the W40 oil technology era and so I stick with that because clearances etc are likely to have been designed with that level of viscosity in mind.

Engines run with synthetic oils are cleaner, if you put synthetic oil in an engine previously run on non-synthetic you can dislodge a lot of gunge so run a short first oil/filter change interval if you switch.

* Amsoil says:

To use any 60 grade oil in these engines is crazy. This is the thickest grade of engine oil there is. Whilst we sell a 60 grade its confined to pre war Harley Davidsons and nitro drag cars whose superchargers force the fuel past the rings (if they have them) and into the oil therby diluting it; so they start thick to end up with something that will let the engine survive.
If you are tracking your car and the temperatures are so high that the use of a 60 grade oil means that its effectively a 30 or 40 at these temperatures then please ask yourselves about the efficiency of the rad or oil coolers (if fitted) Bottom line is get the temperatures down and use the correct grade. The engine oil is meant to be an indespensible part of the engines system rather than being used as a prop. The problem with thick oil is that it causes more friction / pumping losses which in itself creats extra heat , robs power and efficiency and can actually lead to oil starvation when an oil pump cavitates.
Edge is a good product but please stick to what the manufactures originally specified. The improvements in oil which mainly refer to the appearance of full synthetics, have resulted in very much stonger and longerlasting products. Amsoils products are at least 3-5 times the film strength of mineral oils and this strength allows the use of thinner oils to advantage.
Not too sure how a synthetic oil can be thinner than a mineral oil? If it where it would just be graded differently so that it would be the same , if that makes sense.

* And...

Be a bit careful with oils that have a gap between the 2 numbers of 40 or even more. (ie 0w-40 5w-50 etc) These are generally 'weak' oils that have additives (VI's) viscocity improvers to stretch the difference between cold and hot thickness. The VI's resist the thinning effects of heat so the 5w-50 is actually a 5 grade oil that with the added VI's doesnt thin down like it should and when new can maintain a 50 grade hot. The VI's are long molecule chains and as such are litterally chopped up and broken by the piston rings and engine heat. They then cannot stop the natural thinning, and the oil that you thought was thick is now no longer. You are better off with a quality 20w-50 unless you wish to change the oil often.

== On the subject of high mileage engines ==

[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php...28&highlight=1 Also see here]

* Here’s what Castrol had to say.

If the engine was very dirty, and had not had regular oil changes, and the engine has a bit of wear - then it is possible where there could be some carbon deposits built up around the valve guide seals and piston rings where this carbon is actually providing a final seal - if an engine oil with good detergent properties is used, then over time it can clean away the deposits and you could get some extra usage - but you wouldn't see this straight away.
A more likely scenario could be that the oil is oxidised so it is thicker - when you change the oil, the new oil will be thinner and would also show up any wear - especially is it a synthetic which tend to be thinner than the equivalent mineral oils.
If in doubt then a semi synthetic would probably be better bet - detergents in oil don't necessarily "clean" the engine, but stop dirt sticking to it, and hold it in the oil so when it's changed the dirt is flushed away.

From this you could assume for high mileage engines that have always been running on semi synthetic oil it may be best to stick with it.

== What LEC members are using… ==

* Gareth: Changed from 10W/30 to 10W/40

* Paul: Duckhams 10W/40 to Castrol Edge Sport 0W/40 found a slight leak, going back to 10W-40

* Muley, Jim: I’ve Been using Mobil 0W/40 but switched to the Castrol Edge 0W/40 as the car had nearly 70,000 miles. Now Mobil 5W/40

* Paul P: Castrol RS 0W/60 FS 110,000miles

* Simon P: Put 0W FS in - Made the valve lifters noisy so switched back to 10W its quiet again (10W?)

* Kmckmc: Shell 5W/40 - Castrol FORMULA RS 10W/50 - Mobile One 5W/50 - Selenia 10W/60 - Shell Ultra Helix 5W/40 - Fuchs Titan Super Syn 5W/50

* Elanlover: From "unknown" to Amsoil synthetic Euro spec 5W/40 - engine and tappets much quieter

* ScottJ: Halfords 5W/40 FS since purchase at 115,000 till now at 142,000.

* L.G: Shell 5W/40 FS to Mobil 15W/50 MS(mineral) back to Shell 5W/40 FS because oil pressure light stayed on for a split second after starting the engine. Now back to normal.

* Josler: Mobil One 0W/40. Turbo. Complained of noise. Changed to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 SS

* Johnny: 15W/50 FS (Make?)

* LGM: Valvoline VR1 Racing 10W/30 FS Used Mobile 0W/40 FS with good results. Tried Castrol 5W/30 FS but found lifters were clattering for awhile.

* The Bard: Mobil 5W/30 FS

* Ekapol: From SS Castrol 5W/30 to FS Mobil One 10W/30 engine is much quieter.

* Enright: Mobil One 0W/40 FS

* Oliver: Elf LDX 5W/40 The HVL's seem quieter than they used to with Mobil One 0w-40. Doesn't appear to burn any either (87k miles).

* Rambo: Shell Helix Ultra 5W/40

* Ultimatt: Reverting back to Mobil One 0W/40 FS

* markVasey: From Mobil 15W/50 to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 - N/A (still burning oil)

* Rip: Edge Sport 10W-60 1990 SE Turbo 74000 miles

* RayD: Valvoline Syn Power 5W/50 FS, to Valvoline VR1 Racing 5W/50 FS 40,000 miles, SE Turbo

* Dico: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 FS 44,000 miles, Turbo Purchase car 4 years ago at 30,000 miles. Changed oil and filter every 3000 miles.

* Sy: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 70,000 - 110,000 miles, SE Turbo
Changed engine about 3,000 miles ago because old engine was burning oil regardless of type.

* Clemo: Redline Racing oil. 5W/30 FS
Full engine rebuild 6000 miles ago. NA now reading 116000. changing oil and filter every spring . Covering about 900 miles a year. Using Redline MTL gearbox oil.

* Martin R: Silkolene 10w/50

* Specky: Mobil Super S 10W/40( .....Edit.... very noisy lifters..Looking for an Alternative)

* Steve A: Mobil One 0W/40 52,000 miles

* Dermotbell: Castrol Edge 10W/60

* Monty: Mainly used Mobil 0w/40 and Ocasionly Halfords 5w/40 but Pinky is using a wee bit of oil. So Just done a service with Comma Motorsports full synthetic 5w/50 and K & N oil filter.

* Paza1: Unknown oil with Lotus filter, Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic with Lotus filter, then Mobil 1 0w/40 with Lotus filter. Update, lifters too noisey, back to Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic.

* mnemonix: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50

* bobbrown: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50