https://wikilec.com/api.php?action=feedcontributions&feedformat=atom&user=Ashm 2026-08-14T07:27:37Z User contributions MediaWiki 1.23.9 https://wikilec.com/view/Fuel_injectors 2022-04-12T17:59:18Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>This is a quick write up for upgrading the Fuel Injectors to the RC PL8 550 Injectors for the Turbo upgrade. I used the write up by David R. Meyers which is in the Upgrade link on the LEC homepage [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/upgrade/injectorswap.htm] and as there is only one photo thought i`d post my photo`s here to help others in the future.<br /> So i`m just going to use Daves write up with my photo`s (hope he doesn`t mine)<br /> <br /> <br /> Tools Needed: <br /> <br /> 12mm socket<br /> <br /> 14mm socket<br /> <br /> Socket extension<br /> <br /> Needle-nose pliers<br /> <br /> Die pick (i used a thin flat screwdriver)<br /> <br /> A long, standard screwdriver<br /> <br /> T-26 Torx bit<br /> <br /> RC Injectors can be bought direct from [http://www.rceng.com/]<br /> <br /> <br /> The RC PL8-550 (Bosh Style Top) compared to the stock injector<br /> <br /> [[Image:RC PL8-550 vs Stock Injector.jpg]] <br /> <br /> RC Engineering's replacement for the stock injector is part number PL2-320 (Peak and Hold, bosch connector, 320 cc/min)<br /> <br /> Before removing any parts, you must relive pressure form the fuel system. While the car is running, pull the fuse for the fuel pump (I tripped the Inertia switch). After it stalls, crank the engine for a few seconds to remove as much remaining fuel from the fuel rail. Then perform the following steps:<br /> <br /> 1. Disconnect the battery.<br /> <br /> 2. Remove the (2) 12mm bolts holding the black plastic wire cover.<br /> <br /> 3. Remove the small wire clips that hold the plastic electrical connectors to the injectors. This is possibly the toughest part of the job. Use the die pick in conjunction with the needle-nose pliers or a standard screwdriver. Be careful of the small plastic tab at the front of the connector. Also, do not drop the clips.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Injector wire loom clip.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 4. Slide the metal clips holding the injector to the fuel rail from left to right. Push first on the front part of the clip, then the rear with the long screwdriver.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Injector fuel rail clip.JPG]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:Fuel rail clip 1.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 5. Remove the fuel pressure regulator. A T-26 Torx screw [ashm: mine was T27] and gently pry the regulator off the end of the fuel rail. It is held in by an o-ring. Mine was in there rather securely. Have an old rag underneath before removing as some gas will spill out from the rail.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator 1.JPG]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 6. Remove the (2) 14mm [ashm: 12mm] fuel rail bolts.<br /> <br /> 7. Carefully push the fuel rail up. The injectors are held in place now only by their o-rings, but they will be solidly in place. Work slow, maybe first at one end of the rail, then the other and it will pop up. (they were that solid i had to use a pry bar to remove the injectors)<br /> <br /> 8. Remove the injectors. They will still be attached either in the rail or in the intake. Either pull or *gently* pry them out. (again i had to use the pry bar to remove the injectors from the fuel rail)<br /> <br /> <br /> Before installing new injectors, compare them to the stock injectors. Make sure the o-rings are the same size; the distance between top and bottom o-rings is the same; and overall construction is similar. If all appear fine: <br /> <br /> 1. Lightly coat the new injectors’ o-rings in motor oil to aid installation. Push the injectors into the fuel rail first.<br /> <br /> 2. Attach/slide the clips that hold the injectors onto the fuel rail.<br /> <br /> [[Image:RC injector &amp; clip.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 3. Carefully line up the injectors into the plenum and gently push down on the rail until the bolt holes line up. <br /> Replace the (2) 14mm [ashm: 12mm] fuel rail bolts.<br /> <br /> 4. Lightly coat the fuel pressure regulator o-ring with motor oil and push into the end of the rail. Replace the Torx bolt.<br /> <br /> 5. Plug the electrical connectors onto the injectors and carefully replace the small clips.<br /> <br /> 6. Replace the wire cover and connect the (2) 12mm bolts.<br /> <br /> 7. Connect the battery.<br /> <br /> 8. Turn the ignition key to the accessory position to prime the fuel pump. Check for any leaks. <br /> Start the car. Check for any leaks.<br /> <br /> [[Image:RC Injectors installed.JPG]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Added by ashm 10/04/2022: O-Rings<br /> <br /> Fuel injector O-rings can degrade and start to leak over time, which can cause quite an impressive spray of fuel from the fuel rail connection when pressurised.<br /> Rockauto lists replacement O-rings as 0.296&quot; ID x 0.574&quot; OD, or 7.52mm ID x 14.58mm OD, 3.53mm CS (cross section).<br /> I believe the correct material should be Viton as it has good compatibility with petroleum. However it is only borderline tolerant of ethanol, which is increasingly included in standard fuel. NBR rubber is fairly compatible with both petroleum and ethanol, so may actually be a better option if you plan to run high ethanol fuel, but it may be inferior to Viton in other ways. Personally I'm sticking with Viton.</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Fuel_injectors 2022-04-10T21:54:38Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>This is a quick write up for upgrading the Fuel Injectors to the RC PL8 550 Injectors for the Turbo upgrade. I used the write up by David R. Meyers which is in the Upgrade link on the LEC homepage [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/upgrade/injectorswap.htm] and as there is only one photo thought i`d post my photo`s here to help others in the future.<br /> So i`m just going to use Daves write up with my photo`s (hope he doesn`t mine)<br /> <br /> <br /> Tools Needed: <br /> <br /> 12mm socket<br /> <br /> 14mm socket<br /> <br /> Socket extension<br /> <br /> Needle-nose pliers<br /> <br /> Die pick (i used a thin flat screwdriver)<br /> <br /> A long, standard screwdriver<br /> <br /> T-26 Torx bit<br /> <br /> RC Injectors can be bought direct from [http://www.rceng.com/]<br /> <br /> <br /> The RC PL8-550 (Bosh Style Top) compared to the stock injector<br /> <br /> [[Image:RC PL8-550 vs Stock Injector.jpg]] <br /> <br /> RC Engineering's replacement for the stock injector is part number PL2-320 (Peak and Hold, bosch connector, 320 cc/min)<br /> <br /> Before removing any parts, you must relive pressure form the fuel system. While the car is running, pull the fuse for the fuel pump (I tripped the Inertia switch). After it stalls, crank the engine for a few seconds to remove as much remaining fuel from the fuel rail. Then perform the following steps:<br /> <br /> 1. Disconnect the battery.<br /> <br /> 2. Remove the (2) 12mm bolts holding the black plastic wire cover.<br /> <br /> 3. Remove the small wire clips that hold the plastic electrical connectors to the injectors. This is possibly the toughest part of the job. Use the die pick in conjunction with the needle-nose pliers or a standard screwdriver. Be careful of the small plastic tab at the front of the connector. Also, do not drop the clips.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Injector wire loom clip.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 4. Slide the metal clips holding the injector to the fuel rail from left to right. Push first on the front part of the clip, then the rear with the long screwdriver.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Injector fuel rail clip.JPG]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:Fuel rail clip 1.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 5. Remove the fuel pressure regulator. A T-26 Torx screw and gently pry the regulator off the end of the fuel rail. It is held in by an o-ring. Mine was in there rather securely. Have an old rag underneath before removing as some gas will spill out from the rail.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator 1.JPG]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 6. Remove the (2) 14mm fuel rail bolts.<br /> <br /> 7. Carefully push the fuel rail up. The injectors are held in place now only by their o-rings, but they will be solidly in place. Work slow, maybe first at one end of the rail, then the other and it will pop up. (they were that solid i had to use a pry bar to remove the injectors)<br /> <br /> 8. Remove the injectors. They will still be attached either in the rail or in the intake. Either pull or *gently* pry them out. (again i had to use the pry bar to remove the injectors from the fuel rail)<br /> <br /> <br /> Before installing new injectors, compare them to the stock injectors. Make sure the o-rings are the same size; the distance between top and bottom o-rings is the same; and overall construction is similar. If all appear fine: <br /> <br /> 1. Lightly coat the new injectors’ o-rings in motor oil to aid installation. Push the injectors into the fuel rail first.<br /> <br /> 2. Attach/slide the clips that hold the injectors onto the fuel rail.<br /> <br /> [[Image:RC injector &amp; clip.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 3. Carefully line up the injectors into the plenum and gently push down on the rail until the bolt holes line up. <br /> Replace the (2) 14mm fuel rail bolts.<br /> <br /> 4. Lightly coat the fuel pressure regulator o-ring with motor oil and push into the end of the rail. Replace the Torx bolt.<br /> <br /> 5. Plug the electrical connectors onto the injectors and carefully replace the small clips.<br /> <br /> 6. Replace the wire cover and connect the (2) 12mm bolts.<br /> <br /> 7. Connect the battery.<br /> <br /> 8. Turn the ignition key to the accessory position to prime the fuel pump. Check for any leaks. <br /> Start the car. Check for any leaks.<br /> <br /> [[Image:RC Injectors installed.JPG]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Added by ashm 10/04/2022: O-Rings<br /> <br /> Fuel injector O-rings can degrade and start to leak over time, which can cause quite an impressive spray of fuel from the fuel rail connection when pressurised.<br /> Rockauto lists replacement O-rings as 0.296&quot; ID x 0.574&quot; OD, or 7.52mm ID x 14.58mm OD, 3.53mm CS (cross section).<br /> I believe the correct material should be Viton as it has good compatibility with petroleum. However it is only borderline tolerant of ethanol, which is increasingly included in standard fuel. NBR rubber is fairly compatible with both petroleum and ethanol, so may actually be a better option if you plan to run high ethanol fuel, but it may be inferior to Viton in other ways. Personally I'm sticking with Viton.</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Fuel_injectors 2022-04-10T21:15:28Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>This is a quick write up for upgrading the Fuel Injectors to the RC PL8 550 Injectors for the Turbo upgrade. I used the write up by David R. Meyers which is in the Upgrade link on the LEC homepage [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/upgrade/injectorswap.htm] and as there is only one photo thought i`d post my photo`s here to help others in the future.<br /> So i`m just going to use Daves write up with my photo`s (hope he doesn`t mine)<br /> <br /> <br /> Tools Needed: <br /> <br /> 12mm socket<br /> <br /> 14mm socket<br /> <br /> Socket extension<br /> <br /> Needle-nose pliers<br /> <br /> Die pick (i used a thin flat screwdriver)<br /> <br /> A long, standard screwdriver<br /> <br /> T-26 Torx bit<br /> <br /> RC Injectors can be bought direct from [http://www.rceng.com/]<br /> <br /> <br /> The RC PL8-550 (Bosh Style Top) compared to the stock injector<br /> <br /> [[Image:RC PL8-550 vs Stock Injector.jpg]] <br /> <br /> RC Engineering's replacement for the stock injector is part number PL2-320 (Peak and Hold, bosch connector, 320 cc/min)<br /> <br /> Before removing any parts, you must relive pressure form the fuel system. While the car is running, pull the fuse for the fuel pump (I tripped the Inertia switch). After it stalls, crank the engine for a few seconds to remove as much remaining fuel from the fuel rail. Then perform the following steps:<br /> <br /> 1. Disconnect the battery.<br /> <br /> 2. Remove the (2) 12mm bolts holding the black plastic wire cover.<br /> <br /> 3. Remove the small wire clips that hold the plastic electrical connectors to the injectors. This is possibly the toughest part of the job. Use the die pick in conjunction with the needle-nose pliers or a standard screwdriver. Be careful of the small plastic tab at the front of the connector. Also, do not drop the clips.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Injector wire loom clip.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 4. Slide the metal clips holding the injector to the fuel rail from left to right. Push first on the front part of the clip, then the rear with the long screwdriver.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Injector fuel rail clip.JPG]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:Fuel rail clip 1.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 5. Remove the fuel pressure regulator. A T-26 Torx screw and gently pry the regulator off the end of the fuel rail. It is held in by an o-ring. Mine was in there rather securely. Have an old rag underneath before removing as some gas will spill out from the rail.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator 1.JPG]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 6. Remove the (2) 14mm fuel rail bolts.<br /> <br /> 7. Carefully push the fuel rail up. The injectors are held in place now only by their o-rings, but they will be solidly in place. Work slow, maybe first at one end of the rail, then the other and it will pop up. (they were that solid i had to use a pry bar to remove the injectors)<br /> <br /> 8. Remove the injectors. They will still be attached either in the rail or in the intake. Either pull or *gently* pry them out. (again i had to use the pry bar to remove the injectors from the fuel rail)<br /> <br /> <br /> Before installing new injectors, compare them to the stock injectors. Make sure the o-rings are the same size; the distance between top and bottom o-rings is the same; and overall construction is similar. If all appear fine: <br /> <br /> 1. Lightly coat the new injectors’ o-rings in motor oil to aid installation. Push the injectors into the fuel rail first.<br /> <br /> 2. Attach/slide the clips that hold the injectors onto the fuel rail.<br /> <br /> [[Image:RC injector &amp; clip.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 3. Carefully line up the injectors into the plenum and gently push down on the rail until the bolt holes line up. <br /> Replace the (2) 14mm fuel rail bolts.<br /> <br /> 4. Lightly coat the fuel pressure regulator o-ring with motor oil and push into the end of the rail. Replace the Torx bolt.<br /> <br /> 5. Plug the electrical connectors onto the injectors and carefully replace the small clips.<br /> <br /> 6. Replace the wire cover and connect the (2) 12mm bolts.<br /> <br /> 7. Connect the battery.<br /> <br /> 8. Turn the ignition key to the accessory position to prime the fuel pump. Check for any leaks. <br /> Start the car. Check for any leaks.<br /> <br /> [[Image:RC Injectors installed.JPG]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Added by ashm 10/04/2022: O-Rings<br /> <br /> Fuel injector O-rings can degrade and start to leak over time, which can cause quite an impressive spray of fuel from the fuel rail connection when pressurised.<br /> Rockauto lists replacement O-rings as 0.296&quot; ID x 0.574&quot; OD, or 7.52mm x 14.58mm.<br /> I believe the correct material should be Viton as it has good compatibility with petroleum. However it is only borderline tolerant of ethanol, which is increasingly included in standard fuel. NBR rubber is fairly compatible with both petroleum and ethanol, so may actually be a better option if you plan to run high ethanol fuel, but it may be inferior to Viton in other ways. Personally I'm sticking with Viton.</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Fuel_injectors 2022-04-10T21:15:02Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>This is a quick write up for upgrading the Fuel Injectors to the RC PL8 550 Injectors for the Turbo upgrade. I used the write up by David R. Meyers which is in the Upgrade link on the LEC homepage [http://www.lotuselancentral.com/upgrade/injectorswap.htm] and as there is only one photo thought i`d post my photo`s here to help others in the future.<br /> So i`m just going to use Daves write up with my photo`s (hope he doesn`t mine)<br /> <br /> <br /> Tools Needed: <br /> <br /> 12mm socket<br /> <br /> 14mm socket<br /> <br /> Socket extension<br /> <br /> Needle-nose pliers<br /> <br /> Die pick (i used a thin flat screwdriver)<br /> <br /> A long, standard screwdriver<br /> <br /> T-26 Torx bit<br /> <br /> RC Injectors can be bought direct from [http://www.rceng.com/]<br /> <br /> <br /> The RC PL8-550 (Bosh Style Top) compared to the stock injector<br /> <br /> [[Image:RC PL8-550 vs Stock Injector.jpg]] <br /> <br /> RC Engineering's replacement for the stock injector is part number PL2-320 (Peak and Hold, bosch connector, 320 cc/min)<br /> <br /> Before removing any parts, you must relive pressure form the fuel system. While the car is running, pull the fuse for the fuel pump (I tripped the Inertia switch). After it stalls, crank the engine for a few seconds to remove as much remaining fuel from the fuel rail. Then perform the following steps:<br /> <br /> 1. Disconnect the battery.<br /> <br /> 2. Remove the (2) 12mm bolts holding the black plastic wire cover.<br /> <br /> 3. Remove the small wire clips that hold the plastic electrical connectors to the injectors. This is possibly the toughest part of the job. Use the die pick in conjunction with the needle-nose pliers or a standard screwdriver. Be careful of the small plastic tab at the front of the connector. Also, do not drop the clips.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Injector wire loom clip.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 4. Slide the metal clips holding the injector to the fuel rail from left to right. Push first on the front part of the clip, then the rear with the long screwdriver.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Injector fuel rail clip.JPG]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:Fuel rail clip 1.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 5. Remove the fuel pressure regulator. A T-26 Torx screw and gently pry the regulator off the end of the fuel rail. It is held in by an o-ring. Mine was in there rather securely. Have an old rag underneath before removing as some gas will spill out from the rail.<br /> <br /> [[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator 1.JPG]]<br /> <br /> [[Image:Fuel Pressure Regulator.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 6. Remove the (2) 14mm fuel rail bolts.<br /> <br /> 7. Carefully push the fuel rail up. The injectors are held in place now only by their o-rings, but they will be solidly in place. Work slow, maybe first at one end of the rail, then the other and it will pop up. (they were that solid i had to use a pry bar to remove the injectors)<br /> <br /> 8. Remove the injectors. They will still be attached either in the rail or in the intake. Either pull or *gently* pry them out. (again i had to use the pry bar to remove the injectors from the fuel rail)<br /> <br /> <br /> Before installing new injectors, compare them to the stock injectors. Make sure the o-rings are the same size; the distance between top and bottom o-rings is the same; and overall construction is similar. If all appear fine: <br /> <br /> 1. Lightly coat the new injectors’ o-rings in motor oil to aid installation. Push the injectors into the fuel rail first.<br /> <br /> 2. Attach/slide the clips that hold the injectors onto the fuel rail.<br /> <br /> [[Image:RC injector &amp; clip.JPG]]<br /> <br /> 3. Carefully line up the injectors into the plenum and gently push down on the rail until the bolt holes line up. <br /> Replace the (2) 14mm fuel rail bolts.<br /> <br /> 4. Lightly coat the fuel pressure regulator o-ring with motor oil and push into the end of the rail. Replace the Torx bolt.<br /> <br /> 5. Plug the electrical connectors onto the injectors and carefully replace the small clips.<br /> <br /> 6. Replace the wire cover and connect the (2) 12mm bolts.<br /> <br /> 7. Connect the battery.<br /> <br /> 8. Turn the ignition key to the accessory position to prime the fuel pump. Check for any leaks. <br /> Start the car. Check for any leaks.<br /> <br /> [[Image:RC Injectors installed.JPG]]<br /> <br /> <br /> Added by ashm 10/04/2022: O-Rings<br /> Fuel injector O-rings can degrade and start to leak over time, which can cause quite an impressive spray of fuel from the fuel rail connection when pressurised.<br /> Rockauto lists replacement O-rings as 0.296&quot; ID x 0.574&quot; OD, or 7.52mm x 14.58mm.<br /> I believe the correct material should be Viton as it has good compatibility with petroleum. However it is only borderline tolerant of ethanol, which is increasingly included in standard fuel. NBR rubber is fairly compatible with both petroleum and ethanol, so may actually be a better option if you plan to run high ethanol fuel, but it may be inferior to Viton in other ways. Personally I'm sticking with Viton.</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Converting_SE_to_closed_loop_ECU 2013-08-06T20:29:51Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>__NOTOC__<br /> It is possible to convert the UK standard SE with an open loop ECU (9929 or 9239 PROM id) to run a closed loop program. <br /> <br /> The ''open loop''/''closed loop'' terms refer to the way that the ECU controls the mixture. In closed loop the ECU usually tries to achieve an a/f ratio of 14.7:1 - this is complete combustion of the mixture (or as close to it as the engine can get).<br /> <br /> The open loop ECU bases it's fuelling on the characteristics measured on a typical engine - there is essentially no loop. The a/f ratio is set slightly rich, at 14:1. This is a safety measure to prevent the mixture going [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lean_burn lean].<br /> <br /> The closed loop ECU follows these steps:<br /> <br /> # sets up the injectors <br /> # reads the output of an oxygen sensor mounted in the exhaust flow <br /> # adjusts an injector correction term if the sensor reading is lean or rich<br /> # loops back to step 1<br /> <br /> At high throttle openings the ECU uses fuel enrichment to suppress knock and in this event the narrow band oxygen sensor can no longer be usefully employed, as the mixture moves out of its measurement range, so the ECU operates in open loop mode until the normal 14.7:1 mixture is next required. <br /> <br /> === Why do it? ===<br /> <br /> Changing an SE to closed loop improves fuel economy (unless you go everywhere at full throttle) and removes any worry from the emissions tests at MOT time.<br /> If you're getting a &quot;Mountain Chip&quot; ECU upgrade and you've got a car with the necessary wiring, then for the cost of an O2 sensor (£22 to £90+ depending on the supplier) you can choose a closed loop chip and improve fuel economy by about 5mpg.<br /> <br /> === What's the catch? ===<br /> <br /> O2 sensors are usually quite pricy, because they're made of expensive things like platinum. They can also be a little fragile; a failure of the heater circuit or some silicone in your fuel can easily kill the sensor. They'll probably need replacing every 60k miles or so at most.<br /> Not all SE cars have the necessary O2 sensor wiring in place, so unless you check your main wiring harness you may find that you need to do some electrical work before your sensor &amp; ECU will talk to each other.<br /> <br /> == Parts Needed ==<br /> <br /> You need two things:<br /> # A standard narrow band (aka binary) oxygen sensor. They can readily be found on US car parts sites; look for an oxygen sensor listed under the '1991 Isuzu Impulse RS' application. DON'T pick a universal one, get one with the right plug on it. The Bosch 15701 is known to be suitable.<br /> # One of the following:<br /> ## A 1499 (S2 or 49 states federal) closed loop ECU or MEMCAL <br /> ## An upgrade chip based on the 1499 program (in the interest of full disclosure I should mention that I sell these!) ''[As an independant contributor, I can thoroughly recommend them - Geoff]''<br /> <br /> == Instructions ==<br /> [[Image:RHFHC.jpg]] [[Image:IPHC.jpg]]<br /> # Remove the driver's side front wheel arch liner and follow the right hand front wiring harness back to the bulkhead. It should end in the &quot;RHFHC&quot; wiring harness connector where it joins to the main harness. If you can't see the connector it might be on the other side of the bulkhead, above the driver's footwell. Inspect the connector; pins 4 and 8 serve the O2 sensor. If there are wires connected to these pins on the main harness side then the necessary circuits are probably all in place and you can skip the complicated bits. If not, you'll have to install your own wiring to serve the sensor:<br /> ## Remove the glovebox, dash binnacle (&quot;half moon&quot; thing above the instruments) and driver's side front wheel arch liner. Pass the end of some suitable signal wire from the passenger footwell behind the radio and over the back of the instrument panel. now take a length of 3A or higher rated supply wire and tape it alongside the first wire. Pass the pair down to the right of the steering column and into the right end of the driver's footwell.<br /> ##Take about 8&quot; of thin steel wire, bend it double and push the bent end from the wheel arch through the bulkhead grommet alongside the main harness. From the driver's footwell, pass the two wires through the loop, then use the loop to draw the wires through the grommet into the wheel arch.<br /> ##Splice the new wires into the RHF harness. The signal wire connects to the wire on RHFHC pin 8, and the supply wire connects to the wire on pin 4.<br /> ##Disconnect the battery, return to the passenger footwell and unplug the ECU harness from the ECU. Connector pin D7 can be located using the markings on the connectors. The wire from this pin should be spliced to the footwell end of the signal wire.<br /> ##Return to the open binnacle cover. The &quot;IPHC&quot; harness connectors are on the left of the opening. Inspect the large black connector, disconnect it and identify the wire on the IP harness side of pin A15. Splice the binnacle end of the supply cable in here.<br /> ##Congratulations, you now have the necessary wiring! Check for good continuity from O2 sensor connector pin A to ECU harness connector pin D7, from O2 sensor connector pin B to IP harness connector pin A15 and from O2 sensor connector pin D to any earth point. Investigate and correct if necessary. Replace ECU (now's a good time to install your closed loop chip) and battery.<br /> # Under the bonnet you must remove the bung in the turbo housing, the one you can see through the hole in the turbo's heat shield. The sensor is fitted there instead. It will be tough to get out, use penetrating oil in advance and be prepared to apply a lot of force, damage to the casting is a possibility. Another risk, particularly after applying extreme heat &amp; cold, is shearing the head off the bung. In this case you'll want to fetch some good cobalt drill bits and start drilling it out, being careful to try not to damage the threads. One method that has worked when penetrating oil failed is to warm up the engine, then (with long pliars and safety goggles) hold ice cubes against the bung until they stop boiling violently. If you can't shift the bung with an 18&quot; bar then you probably need to encourage it with some more heat/cold/oil treatment. You'll need a 27mm socket. After the bung is out its all easy;<br /> # A wire brush can be useful to clean the threads in the housing. Fit the sensor (use a proper O2 sensor socket and the correct torque) but don't add anti-sieze unless you know what you're doing - the sensor should come with some already applied and the wrong type could damage the sensor.<br /> # Plug the sensor lead into the empty socket in the harness just by the engine mount (4 position connector in a 2x2 configuration with only three wires connected).<br /> # Fit the ECU/chip and you're done!<br /> <br /> [[Category:HowTo]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Converting_SE_to_closed_loop_ECU 2012-04-10T10:57:32Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>__NOTOC__<br /> It is possible to convert the UK standard SE with an open loop ECU (9929 or 9239 PROM id) to run a closed loop program. <br /> <br /> The ''open loop''/''closed loop'' terms refer to the way that the ECU controls the mixture. In closed loop the ECU usually tries to achieve an a/f ratio of 14.7:1 - this is complete combustion of the mixture (or as close to it as the engine can get).<br /> <br /> The open loop ECU bases it's fuelling on the characteristics measured on a typical engine - there is essentially no loop. The a/f ratio is set slightly rich, at 14:1. This is a safety measure to prevent the mixture going [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lean_burn lean].<br /> <br /> The closed loop ECU follows these steps:<br /> <br /> # sets up the injectors <br /> # reads the output of an oxygen sensor mounted in the exhaust flow <br /> # adjusts an injector correction term if the sensor reading is lean or rich<br /> # loops back to step 1<br /> <br /> At high throttle openings the ECU uses fuel enrichment to suppress knock and in this event the narrow band oxygen sensor can no longer be usefully employed, as the mixture moves out of its measurement range, so the ECU operates in open loop mode until the normal 14.7:1 mixture is next required. <br /> <br /> === Why do it? ===<br /> <br /> Changing an SE to closed loop improves fuel economy (unless you go everywhere at full throttle) and removes any worry from the emissions tests at MOT time.<br /> If you're getting a &quot;Mountain Chip&quot; ECU upgrade and you've got a car with the necessary wiring, then for the cost of an O2 sensor (£22 to £90+ depending on the supplier) you can choose a closed loop chip and improve fuel economy by about 5mpg.<br /> <br /> === What's the catch? ===<br /> <br /> O2 sensors are usually quite pricy, because they're made of expensive things like platinum. They can also be a little fragile; a failure of the heater circuit or some silicone in your fuel can easily kill the sensor. They'll probably need replacing every 60k miles or so at most.<br /> Not all SE cars have the necessary O2 sensor wiring in place, so unless you check your main wiring harness you may find that you need to do some electrical work before your sensor &amp; ECU will talk to each other.<br /> <br /> == Parts Needed ==<br /> <br /> You need two things:<br /> # A standard narrow band (aka binary) oxygen sensor. They can readily be found on US car parts sites; look for an oxygen sensor listed under the '1991 Isuzu Impulse RS' application. DON'T pick a universal one, get one with the right plug on it. The Bosch 15701 is known to be suitable.<br /> # One of the following:<br /> ## A 1499 (S2 or 49 states federal) closed loop ECU or MEMCAL <br /> ## An upgrade chip based on the 1499 program (in the interest of full disclosure I should mention that I sell these!) ''[As an independant contributor, I can thoroughly recommend them - Geoff]''<br /> <br /> == Instructions ==<br /> [[Image:RHFHC.jpg]] [[Image:IPHC.jpg]]<br /> # Remove the driver's side front wheel arch liner and follow the right hand front wiring harness back to the bulkhead. It should end in the &quot;RHFHC&quot; wiring harness connector where it joins to the main harness. If you can't see the connector it might be on the other side of the bulkhead, above the driver's footwell. Inspect the connector; pins 4 and 8 serve the O2 sensor. If there are wires connected to these pins on the main harness side then the necessary circuits are probably all in place and you can skip the complicated bits. If not, you'll have to install your own wiring to serve the sensor:<br /> ## Remove the glovebox, dash binnacle (&quot;half moon&quot; thing above the instruments) and driver's side front wheel arch liner. Pass the end of some suitable signal wire from the passenger footwell behind the radio and over the back of the instrument panel. now take a length of 8-10A rated supply wire and tape it alongside the first wire. Pass the pair down to the right of the steering column and into the right end of the driver's footwell.<br /> ##Take about 8&quot; of thin steel wire, bend it double and push the bent end from the wheel arch through the bulkhead grommet alongside the main harness. From the driver's footwell, pass the two wires through the loop, then use the loop to draw the wires through the grommet into the wheel arch.<br /> ##Splice the new wires into the RHF harness. The signal wire connects to the wire on RHFHC pin 8, and the supply wire connects to the wire on pin 4.<br /> ##Disconnect the battery, return to the passenger footwell and unplug the ECU harness from the ECU. Connector pin D7 can be located using the markings on the connectors. The wire from this pin should be spliced to the footwell end of the signal wire.<br /> ##Return to the open binnacle cover. The &quot;IPHC&quot; harness connectors are on the left of the opening. Inspect the large black connector, disconnect it and identify the wire on the IP harness side of pin A15. Splice the binnacle end of the supply cable in here.<br /> ##Congratulations, you now have the necessary wiring! Check for good continuity from O2 sensor connector pin A to ECU harness connector pin D7, from O2 sensor connector pin B to IP harness connector pin A15 and from O2 sensor connector pin D to any earth point. Investigate and correct if necessary. Replace ECU (now's a good time to install your closed loop chip) and battery.<br /> # Under the bonnet you must remove the bung in the turbo housing, the one you can see through the hole in the turbo's heat shield. The sensor is fitted there instead. It will be tough to get out, use penetrating oil in advance and be prepared to apply a lot of force, damage to the casting is a possibility. Another risk, particularly after applying extreme heat &amp; cold, is shearing the head off the bung. In this case you'll want to fetch some good cobalt drill bits and start drilling it out, being careful to try not to damage the threads. One method that has worked when penetrating oil failed is to warm up the engine, then (with long pliars and safety goggles) hold ice cubes against the bung until they stop boiling violently. If you can't shift the bung with an 18&quot; bar then you probably need to encourage it with some more heat/cold/oil treatment. You'll need a 27mm socket. After the bung is out its all easy;<br /> # A wire brush can be useful to clean the threads in the housing. Fit the sensor (use a proper O2 sensor socket and the correct torque) but don't add anti-sieze unless you know what you're doing - the sensor should come with some already applied and the wrong type could damage the sensor.<br /> # Plug the sensor lead into the empty socket in the harness just by the engine mount (4 position connector in a 2x2 configuration with only three wires connected).<br /> # Fit the ECU/chip and you're done!<br /> <br /> [[Category:HowTo]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/CO_adjustment 2011-03-01T19:02:24Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>Make sure the car is warm before you start<br /> <br /> Put it into service mode - start the car first, then put in the paperclip (otherwise it is in diagnostic mode).<br /> <br /> To locate the CO pot:-<br /> <br /> open the glovebox, swing it all the way down by easing the catch past the lip on the dashboard, so it swings right down. If you haven't already emptied the glovebox, it will do it for you at this point :D .<br /> <br /> Locate the ECU (metal box, approx 7&quot; x 4&quot; x 2&quot; with a couple of multi-pin plugs in the right-hand side as you view it from the passenger seat/footwell).<br /> <br /> The ECU does not need to be removed (but it is easier to get to the CO pot if you do) - to remove it, loosen the 2 x 10mm bolts at the bottom, then ease it forward (towards you) out of its frame.<br /> <br /> The actual CO pot is a blue rectangular thing secured to the ECU frame by one of the phillips screws which holds the frame to the dashboard. It is about 2&quot; x 1&quot; x 1/2&quot; and had a plug on one end which has 3(?) wires going into the loom.<br /> <br /> On the pot is a small slotted screw which is the adjustment.<br /> <br /> There are no 'end stops' on the screw, so it will keep on turning, past where the movement makes any diffence to the settings.<br /> <br /> There are about 20 full turns (IIRC) of adjustment in the pot, so a small movement may make little difference. (just remember to count how many turns you have made so it can be put back as it was if you need to!)<br /> <br /> Personally, i found it easiest to remove the pot from the frame, adjust it, and then re-fix it again, but if you have very dextrous fingers, I suppose it is possible to do it all in situ without moving the ECU.<br /> <br /> I used a Gunsons Gastester digital, which is straightforward to use, but takes about 10 minutes to 'warm up' before you can do any adjusting - just the right amount of time to check/re-set the base timing and engine idle speeds :D .<br /> <br /> Once it has warmed up, and is calibrated, the readings are very accurate. The box says + or - 0.5% CO, but i did mine just before taking it to the MOT garage, and set it to 2%, their (calibrated) machine says it was 2.1%.<br /> <br /> Remember that current regs for the UK state that the CO level must not exceed 3.5% for the SE/NA, and 1200ppm hydrocarbons.<br /> With the S2, the acceptable CO levels drop to a lot less!<br /> <br /> &lt;ashm&gt; The CO Pot is a variable resistor, with a range from 270 to 10,500 Ohms measured across the two outer pins. The centre pin does not appear to be connected to anything in the Pot housing. The range is covered in 20 turns, with clockwise adjustment increasing the resistance (these details are true for my H-reg SE, anyway).</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Engine_oil 2011-02-27T18:24:00Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11127&amp;postdays=0&amp;postorder=asc&amp;start=0 Also see LEC…]<br /> <br /> <br /> * The original Lotus Service notes recommends 3.5 litres including filter change of 10W/30 SF or SG, 15W/40 SF or SG, Mobil One 5W/50 SG <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * If it were a new car the oil choice would be straight forward, just follow the manufacturer’s recommendation. Unfortunately the Lotus recommendation is 17 years old and oil has moved on a bit.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == What the numbers mean… 10W/40 etc ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * The numbers show the relationship between modern multi grade oils and the SAE single grades. <br /> <br /> <br /> While your lawnmower engine, being small, slow running, and used mainly when it’s warm, will run happily on SAE 30, a car engine needs something thin enough to pump instantly to the camshaft when cold, but thick enough to maintain the pressure when hot. <br /> <br /> <br /> 10W 40 means its starts from cold with the same flowing characteristics as a SAE 10 single grade oil, but rather than thinning as the temperature rises as an SAE 10 would, it thins no more than a SAE 40. Similarly a 5W 50 starts off as a 5 when the ambient temperature is -18°C and doesn’t thin anymore than a SAE 50 by the time the oil is boiling. <br /> <br /> <br /> You might wonder why you would ever need a 0W, it’s the same as a 5W with an extra bit of something that keeps it pourable under even worse conditions. <br /> <br /> <br /> We used to consider Duckham’s 20W 50 as being a thick oil and now we have fully synthetic 10W 60 being recommended. Fortunately the synthetic oils flow better generally, so the comparison is not exact. <br /> <br /> <br /> In the middle of the UK 10W-40 would be a good choice. 5W-30 would be more appropriate for Norway and 15W-50 for North Africa. Then there are track days… <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Some of the things said on the subject of engine oil. ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * Castrol say: <br /> <br /> <br /> Changing the oil every 6 months Magnatec 10W-40 SS would do a good job. Doing any track days, EDGE 10W-60 FS would offer better performance and protection. <br /> <br /> <br /> For the extra cost they recommend EDGE 10W-60 FS anyway, but do the oil change once a year for low mileage cars, as it will easily do the mileage. <br /> <br /> <br /> They also recommend EDGE Turbo Diesel 5W-40 and EDGE 5W-30<br /> <br /> <br /> * On reading some of the posts in early February 2008 Castrol added…<br /> <br /> <br /> It seems that everyone uses different oil and each are happy so in theory you can use what you like!! Lots of oils will work - but the question is, which one works the best? At the end of the day, everyone will have their favourite, and everyone will have an opinion, but as long as everyone feels they are using what's best for them - great.<br /> <br /> <br /> Regarding the &quot;don't use a xW-60, but an xW- 50 is ok&quot; - the difference between a 50 and a 60 at 100 degrees is 2.5 centistokes ( i.e. not much ) whereas an xW-40W is around 13 centistokes so quite a bit thinner !<br /> <br /> <br /> The Formula RS has been replaced by the EDGE Sport 10W-60 which is Castrol's ultimate high performance oil for high powered and tuned engines - We also produce EDGE 10W-60 which is a retail version of TWS Motorsport , a specific BMW formulation for their &quot;M&quot; series engines ( the only oil BMW recommend for the M series for ultimate performance and protection )<br /> <br /> <br /> Looking at my specifications lists Lotus are now recommending as an initial viscosity, a 10W-60 for Élan Se and S2 (89 – 95) with a note “MINIMUM high temperature viscosity of 50 to 60”<br /> <br /> <br /> For temperate climates – the note says 10W-30 to 5W-50<br /> <br /> <br /> Castrol offer a 10W-60 because of our extensive knowledge and experience with high performance engines (take the BMW F1 team cars we lubricate as an example) and we feel that this product offers the best high performance option, based on protection rather than just efficiency.<br /> <br /> <br /> We also recommend this oil for TVR, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati etc – We haven't had any issues at all with its use that I am aware of.<br /> <br /> <br /> * ESM says: <br /> <br /> <br /> Fully synthetic oils are the best by some distance. Friction losses in engines drops by around 4% with a synthetic oil - this gives more power and more economy. They also are the most effective at limiting wear - which is why many engines are best run in with a non-synthetic. <br /> <br /> <br /> Some older engines (I mean older, I don't mean late 80s) need a more viscous oil because the bearing clearances are larger. Chris Foulds doesn't like synthetics too much largely because of this. <br /> <br /> <br /> Different oils swell/shrink seals differently. So if you have a borderline seal. One oil may be worse than another for loss through that seal. Which oil minimises your loss may vary depending on which seal causes the leak because all seals aren't all of the same composition. Oil formulation is scarily basic when it comes to seal compatibility; they are formulated with a mixture of elements known to cause either seal shrinkage or swell which are balanced to break even(ish). So worse oil loss isn't necessarily a synthetic vs semi or non-synthetic oil issue more a formulation to formulation issue (if Mobil 1 gives you issues another synthetic 0W40 oil might be better). <br /> <br /> <br /> Synthetic oils can achieve low cold viscosities. So HVLs will pressurise faster with them, although any drips from leaky seals will be worse for the same reason. I'd certainly go 0W for choice. I prefer a W40 because it will give greater engine protection than a W30 (as a result of its higher viscosity) and the last approval Lotus issued was for a 0W40 not a 0W30. That's not to say a W30 won't be ok and it will incur less in the way of viscous losses but I'd say the Elan's engine is from the W40 oil technology era and so I stick with that because clearances etc are likely to have been designed with that level of viscosity in mind. <br /> <br /> <br /> Engines run with synthetic oils are cleaner, if you put synthetic oil in an engine previously run on non-synthetic you can dislodge a lot of gunge so run a short first oil/filter change interval if you switch. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * Amsoil says: <br /> <br /> To use any 60 grade oil in these engines is crazy. This is the thickest grade of engine oil there is. Whilst we sell a 60 grade its confined to pre war Harley Davidsons and nitro drag cars whose superchargers force the fuel past the rings (if they have them) and into the oil therby diluting it; so they start thick to end up with something that will let the engine survive. <br /> If you are tracking your car and the temperatures are so high that the use of a 60 grade oil means that its effectively a 30 or 40 at these temperatures then please ask yourselves about the efficiency of the rad or oil coolers (if fitted) Bottom line is get the temperatures down and use the correct grade. The engine oil is meant to be an indespensible part of the engines system rather than being used as a prop. The problem with thick oil is that it causes more friction / pumping losses which in itself creats extra heat , robs power and efficiency and can actually lead to oil starvation when an oil pump cavitates. <br /> Edge is a good product but please stick to what the manufactures originally specified. The improvements in oil which mainly refer to the appearance of full synthetics, have resulted in very much stonger and longerlasting products. Amsoils products are at least 3-5 times the film strength of mineral oils and this strength allows the use of thinner oils to advantage. <br /> Not too sure how a synthetic oil can be thinner than a mineral oil? If it where it would just be graded differently so that it would be the same , if that makes sense.<br /> <br /> <br /> * And...<br /> <br /> Be a bit careful with oils that have a gap between the 2 numbers of 40 or even more. (ie 0w-40 5w-50 etc) These are generally 'weak' oils that have additives (VI's) viscocity improvers to stretch the difference between cold and hot thickness. The VI's resist the thinning effects of heat so the 5w-50 is actually a 5 grade oil that with the added VI's doesnt thin down like it should and when new can maintain a 50 grade hot. The VI's are long molecule chains and as such are litterally chopped up and broken by the piston rings and engine heat. They then cannot stop the natural thinning, and the oil that you thought was thick is now no longer. You are better off with a quality 20w-50 unless you wish to change the oil often.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == On the subject of high mileage engines ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php...28&amp;highlight=1 Also see here] <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * Here’s what Castrol had to say. <br /> <br /> <br /> If the engine was very dirty, and had not had regular oil changes, and the engine has a bit of wear - then it is possible where there could be some carbon deposits built up around the valve guide seals and piston rings where this carbon is actually providing a final seal - if an engine oil with good detergent properties is used, then over time it can clean away the deposits and you could get some extra usage - but you wouldn't see this straight away. <br /> A more likely scenario could be that the oil is oxidised so it is thicker - when you change the oil, the new oil will be thinner and would also show up any wear - especially is it a synthetic which tend to be thinner than the equivalent mineral oils. <br /> If in doubt then a semi synthetic would probably be better bet - detergents in oil don't necessarily &quot;clean&quot; the engine, but stop dirt sticking to it, and hold it in the oil so when it's changed the dirt is flushed away.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> From this you could assume for high mileage engines that have always been running on semi synthetic oil it may be best to stick with it. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == What LEC members are using… ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * Gareth: Changed from 10W/30 to 10W/40 <br /> <br /> <br /> * Paul: Duckhams 10W/40 to Castrol Edge Sport 0W/40 found a slight leak, going back to 10W-40 <br /> <br /> <br /> * Muley, Jim: I’ve Been using Mobil 0W/40 but switched to the Castrol Edge 0W/40 as the car had nearly 70,000 miles. Now Mobil 5W/40<br /> <br /> <br /> * Paul P: Castrol RS 0W/60 FS 110,000miles <br /> <br /> <br /> * Simon P: Put 0W FS in - Made the valve lifters noisy so switched back to 10W its quiet again (10W?) <br /> <br /> <br /> * Kmckmc: Shell 5W/40 - Castrol FORMULA RS 10W/50 - Mobile One 5W/50 - Selenia 10W/60 - Shell Ultra Helix 5W/40 - Fuchs Titan Super Syn 5W/50 <br /> <br /> <br /> * Elanlover: From &quot;unknown&quot; to Amsoil synthetic Euro spec 5W/40 - engine and tappets much quieter <br /> <br /> <br /> * ScottJ: Halfords 5W/40 FS since purchase at 115,000 till now at 142,000. <br /> <br /> <br /> * L.G: Shell 5W/40 FS to Mobil 15W/50 MS(mineral) back to Shell 5W/40 FS because oil pressure light stayed on for a split second after starting the engine. Now back to normal.<br /> <br /> <br /> * Josler: Mobil One 0W/40. Turbo. Complained of noise. Changed to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 SS <br /> <br /> <br /> * Johnny: 15W/50 FS (Make?) <br /> <br /> <br /> * LGM: Valvoline VR1 Racing 10W/30 FS Used Mobile 0W/40 FS with good results. Tried Castrol 5W/30 FS but found lifters were clattering for awhile. <br /> <br /> <br /> * The Bard: Mobil 5W/30 FS <br /> <br /> <br /> * Ekapol: From SS Castrol 5W/30 to FS Mobil One 10W/30 engine is much quieter. <br /> <br /> <br /> * Enright: Mobil One 0W/40 FS <br /> <br /> <br /> * Oliver: Elf LDX 5W/40 The HVL's seem quieter than they used to with Mobil One 0w-40. Doesn't appear to burn any either (87k miles). <br /> <br /> <br /> * Rambo: Shell Helix Ultra 5W/40 <br /> <br /> <br /> * Ultimatt: Reverting back to Mobil One 0W/40 FS <br /> <br /> <br /> * markVasey: From Mobil 15W/50 to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 - N/A (still burning oil) <br /> <br /> <br /> * Rip: Edge Sport 10W-60 1990 SE Turbo 74000 miles <br /> <br /> <br /> * RayD: Valvoline Syn Power 5W/50 FS, to Valvoline VR1 Racing 5W/50 FS 40,000 miles, SE Turbo ... Changed to Q8 Techno 5W/30 FS.<br /> <br /> <br /> * Dico: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 FS 44,000 miles, Turbo Purchase car 4 years ago at 30,000 miles. Changed oil and filter every 3000 miles. <br /> <br /> <br /> * Sy: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 70,000 - 110,000 miles, SE Turbo <br /> Changed engine about 3,000 miles ago because old engine was burning oil regardless of type. <br /> <br /> <br /> * Clemo: Redline Racing oil. 5W/30 FS <br /> Full engine rebuild 6000 miles ago. NA now reading 116000. changing oil and filter every spring . Covering about 900 miles a year. Using Redline MTL gearbox oil. <br /> <br /> <br /> * Martin R: Silkolene 10w/50<br /> <br /> <br /> * Specky: Mobil Super S 10W/40( .....Edit.... very noisy lifters..Looking for an Alternative)<br /> <br /> <br /> * Steve A: Mobil One 0W/40 52,000 miles<br /> <br /> <br /> * Dermotbell: Castrol Edge 10W/60<br /> <br /> <br /> * Monty: Mainly used Mobil 0w/40 and Ocasionly Halfords 5w/40 but Pinky is using a wee bit of oil. So Just done a service with Comma Motorsports full synthetic 5w/50 and K &amp; N oil filter.<br /> <br /> <br /> * Paza1: Unknown oil with Lotus filter, Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic with Lotus filter, then Mobil 1 0w/40 with Lotus filter. Update, lifters too noisey, back to Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic.<br /> <br /> <br /> * mnemonix: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50<br /> <br /> <br /> * bobbrown: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50<br /> <br /> <br /> * nicowalker: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50<br /> <br /> <br /> * ashm: Castrol Edge TD 5W-40, K&amp;N filter<br /> <br /> <br /> * tigerdog: Mobil 1 (US) 0w-40. Noisy lifters, low oil pressure with hot engine -&gt; Lubro-Moly (Liqui-Moly) 5W-40 full synthetic; no longer available in US -&gt; Lubro-Moly &quot;Energy&quot; 0W-40. Full synthetic; base viscosity is slightly higher than Mobil 1 0W-40. Lifters quiet, no oil pressure issues. Readily available at NAPA.</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Manifold_Air_Pressure_(MAP)_sensor 2010-10-08T13:38:31Z

<p>Ashm: /* GM Replacement */</p> <hr /> <div>==Location==<br /> <br /> The MAP sensor looks like this:<br /> <br /> [[Image:MAP_sensor.jpg|150px]]<br /> <br /> It is located almost centrally on the bulkhead:<br /> <br /> [[Image:MAP_sensor_location_1.jpg|150px]]<br /> <br /> Just behind the plenum:<br /> <br /> [[Image:MAP_sensor_location_2.jpg|150px]]<br /> <br /> The pressure is monitored on the right hand side of the plenum:<br /> <br /> [[Image:MAP_sensor_plenum_connection.jpg|150px]].<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Preliminary Investigation==<br /> <br /> [http://www.RockAuto.com RockAuto] list the following MAP sensors under 1990 | ISUZU | IMPULSE | 1.6L 1588cc L4 MFI (5) | Emission | MAP Sensor:<br /> <br /> STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # AS5T {TRU-TECH}<br /> <br /> STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # AS5 {MAP SENSOR}<br /> <br /> BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1580380 ----------------- No longer listed by RockAuto -----------------<br /> <br /> ACDELCO Part # 2131520 {#16009886} SENSOR,MAP<br /> <br /> DELPHI Part # PS1007511B1<br /> <br /> A search for &quot;ACDELCO 213-1520&quot; threw up that it is common to the [http://www.lotuscarlton.co.uk/parts.htm Lotus Carlton]† and referred back to RockAuto and 1990 PONTIAC SUNBIRD LE 2.0L 122cid L4 MFI Turbo (M).<br /> <br /> The Sunbird is listed in [http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/component_info/sensors.html this GM sensor cross reference] that Neil highlighted [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4774 here].<br /> <br /> Note:<br /> <br /> † Further down is a reference to:<br /> <br /> AC Delco Ltd (London)<br /> OCW 19 Wandsworth Rd<br /> Unit 14<br /> Perrivale<br /> UB6 7LS<br /> Neil tel 0208 8104595<br /> <br /> <br /> Geoff 31/1/08<br /> <br /> == GM Replacement ==<br /> <br /> Camberley Auto Factors (www.camberleyautofactors.com) were able to look up the GM reference 16009886 and ordered in a replacement for about £42.<br /> <br /> The part supplied was #16807, branded &quot;Intermotor&quot;. The manufacturer's product page is [http://partfinder.smpeurope.com/index.html?p=156&amp;partid=16807 here].<br /> The page gives some interesting X-ref info:<br /> <br /> {|<br /> !Company<br /> !Part #<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |12 38 572<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |12 38 786<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |12 569 241<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |1238572<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |16 040 609<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |16009886<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |16038012<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |16040609<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |1620537<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |45 00 031<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |62 35 695<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |9 160 331<br /> |-<br /> |Isuzu<br /> |8-12569-241-0<br /> |-<br /> |Isuzu<br /> |8-16040-609-0<br /> |-<br /> |Lucas<br /> |SEB801<br /> |-<br /> |Renault<br /> |77 00 267 701<br /> |-<br /> |Volvo<br /> |1336384<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> {|<br /> !Marque<br /> !Vehicle<br /> |-<br /> |OPEL<br /> |Monterey 3.0 <br /> |-<br /> |OPEL<br /> |Movano 2.8 <br /> |-<br /> |OPEL<br /> |Omega Lotus 3.6 <br /> |-<br /> |RENAULT<br /> |21 2.0 <br /> |-<br /> |RENAULT<br /> |25 2.5 <br /> |-<br /> |RENAULT<br /> |Safrane 3.0 <br /> |-<br /> |VAUXHALL<br /> |Carlton 3.6 <br /> |-<br /> |VAUXHALL<br /> |Movano 2.8 <br /> |-<br /> |VOLVO<br /> |740 2.0 <br /> |-<br /> |VOLVO<br /> |740 2.3 <br /> |-<br /> |VOLVO<br /> |740 Estate/Combi 2.0 <br /> |-<br /> |VOLVO<br /> |740 Estate/Combi 2.3 <br /> |-<br /> |VOLVO<br /> |760 2.3 <br /> |-<br /> |VOLVO<br /> |760 Estate/Combi 2.3 <br /> |-<br /> |VAUXHALL<br /> |Monterey 3.0<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> Adam (ashm) 8/10/2010<br /> <br /> == External Links ==<br /> * [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lotus_Carlton Lotus Carlton] on Wikipedia<br /> * [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAP_sensor MAP Sensor] on Wikipedia<br /> * [http://www.RockAuto.com RockAuto] for spare parts<br /> [[Category:Components]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Manifold_Air_Pressure_(MAP)_sensor 2010-10-08T13:35:01Z

<p>Ashm: /* GM Replacement */</p> <hr /> <div>==Location==<br /> <br /> The MAP sensor looks like this:<br /> <br /> [[Image:MAP_sensor.jpg|150px]]<br /> <br /> It is located almost centrally on the bulkhead:<br /> <br /> [[Image:MAP_sensor_location_1.jpg|150px]]<br /> <br /> Just behind the plenum:<br /> <br /> [[Image:MAP_sensor_location_2.jpg|150px]]<br /> <br /> The pressure is monitored on the right hand side of the plenum:<br /> <br /> [[Image:MAP_sensor_plenum_connection.jpg|150px]].<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Preliminary Investigation==<br /> <br /> [http://www.RockAuto.com RockAuto] list the following MAP sensors under 1990 | ISUZU | IMPULSE | 1.6L 1588cc L4 MFI (5) | Emission | MAP Sensor:<br /> <br /> STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # AS5T {TRU-TECH}<br /> <br /> STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # AS5 {MAP SENSOR}<br /> <br /> BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1580380 ----------------- No longer listed by RockAuto -----------------<br /> <br /> ACDELCO Part # 2131520 {#16009886} SENSOR,MAP<br /> <br /> DELPHI Part # PS1007511B1<br /> <br /> A search for &quot;ACDELCO 213-1520&quot; threw up that it is common to the [http://www.lotuscarlton.co.uk/parts.htm Lotus Carlton]† and referred back to RockAuto and 1990 PONTIAC SUNBIRD LE 2.0L 122cid L4 MFI Turbo (M).<br /> <br /> The Sunbird is listed in [http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/component_info/sensors.html this GM sensor cross reference] that Neil highlighted [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4774 here].<br /> <br /> Note:<br /> <br /> † Further down is a reference to:<br /> <br /> AC Delco Ltd (London)<br /> OCW 19 Wandsworth Rd<br /> Unit 14<br /> Perrivale<br /> UB6 7LS<br /> Neil tel 0208 8104595<br /> <br /> <br /> Geoff 31/1/08<br /> <br /> == GM Replacement ==<br /> <br /> Camberley Auto Factors (www.camberleyautofactors.com) were able to look up the GM reference 16009886 and ordered in a replacement for about £42.<br /> <br /> The part supplied was #16807, branded &quot;Intermotor&quot;. The manufacturer's product page is [http://partfinder.smpeurope.com/index.html?p=156&amp;partid=16807&amp;from=113&amp;recordset=115&amp;value=23740 here].<br /> The page gives some interesting X-ref info:<br /> <br /> {|<br /> !Company<br /> !Part #<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |12 38 572<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |12 38 786<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |12 569 241<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |1238572<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |16 040 609<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |16009886<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |16038012<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |16040609<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |1620537<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |45 00 031<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |62 35 695<br /> |-<br /> |GM<br /> |9 160 331<br /> |-<br /> |Isuzu<br /> |8-12569-241-0<br /> |-<br /> |Isuzu<br /> |8-16040-609-0<br /> |-<br /> |Lucas<br /> |SEB801<br /> |-<br /> |Renault<br /> |77 00 267 701<br /> |-<br /> |Volvo<br /> |1336384<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> {|<br /> !Marque<br /> !Vehicle<br /> |-<br /> |OPEL<br /> |Monterey 3.0 <br /> |-<br /> |OPEL<br /> |Movano 2.8 <br /> |-<br /> |OPEL<br /> |Omega Lotus 3.6 <br /> |-<br /> |RENAULT<br /> |21 2.0 <br /> |-<br /> |RENAULT<br /> |25 2.5 <br /> |-<br /> |RENAULT<br /> |Safrane 3.0 <br /> |-<br /> |VAUXHALL<br /> |Carlton 3.6 <br /> |-<br /> |VAUXHALL<br /> |Movano 2.8 <br /> |-<br /> |VOLVO<br /> |740 2.0 <br /> |-<br /> |VOLVO<br /> |740 2.3 <br /> |-<br /> |VOLVO<br /> |740 Estate/Combi 2.0 <br /> |-<br /> |VOLVO<br /> |740 Estate/Combi 2.3 <br /> |-<br /> |VOLVO<br /> |760 2.3 <br /> |-<br /> |VOLVO<br /> |760 Estate/Combi 2.3 <br /> |-<br /> |VAUXHALL<br /> |Monterey 3.0<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> Adam (ashm) 8/10/2010<br /> <br /> == External Links ==<br /> * [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lotus_Carlton Lotus Carlton] on Wikipedia<br /> * [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAP_sensor MAP Sensor] on Wikipedia<br /> * [http://www.RockAuto.com RockAuto] for spare parts<br /> [[Category:Components]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Manifold_Air_Pressure_(MAP)_sensor 2010-10-08T13:24:42Z

<p>Ashm: /* GM Replacement */</p> <hr /> <div>==Location==<br /> <br /> The MAP sensor looks like this:<br /> <br /> [[Image:MAP_sensor.jpg|150px]]<br /> <br /> It is located almost centrally on the bulkhead:<br /> <br /> [[Image:MAP_sensor_location_1.jpg|150px]]<br /> <br /> Just behind the plenum:<br /> <br /> [[Image:MAP_sensor_location_2.jpg|150px]]<br /> <br /> The pressure is monitored on the right hand side of the plenum:<br /> <br /> [[Image:MAP_sensor_plenum_connection.jpg|150px]].<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Preliminary Investigation==<br /> <br /> [http://www.RockAuto.com RockAuto] list the following MAP sensors under 1990 | ISUZU | IMPULSE | 1.6L 1588cc L4 MFI (5) | Emission | MAP Sensor:<br /> <br /> STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # AS5T {TRU-TECH}<br /> <br /> STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # AS5 {MAP SENSOR}<br /> <br /> BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1580380 ----------------- No longer listed by RockAuto -----------------<br /> <br /> ACDELCO Part # 2131520 {#16009886} SENSOR,MAP<br /> <br /> DELPHI Part # PS1007511B1<br /> <br /> A search for &quot;ACDELCO 213-1520&quot; threw up that it is common to the [http://www.lotuscarlton.co.uk/parts.htm Lotus Carlton]† and referred back to RockAuto and 1990 PONTIAC SUNBIRD LE 2.0L 122cid L4 MFI Turbo (M).<br /> <br /> The Sunbird is listed in [http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/component_info/sensors.html this GM sensor cross reference] that Neil highlighted [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4774 here].<br /> <br /> Note:<br /> <br /> † Further down is a reference to:<br /> <br /> AC Delco Ltd (London)<br /> OCW 19 Wandsworth Rd<br /> Unit 14<br /> Perrivale<br /> UB6 7LS<br /> Neil tel 0208 8104595<br /> <br /> <br /> Geoff 31/1/08<br /> <br /> == GM Replacement ==<br /> <br /> Camberley Auto Factors (www.camberleyautofactors.com) were able to look up the GM reference 16009886 and ordered in a replacement for about £42.<br /> <br /> The part supplied was #16807, branded &quot;Intermotor&quot;. The manufacturer's product page is [http://partfinder.smpeurope.com/index.html?p=156&amp;partid=16807&amp;from=113&amp;recordset=115&amp;value=23740 here].<br /> The page gives some interesting X-ref info:<br /> <br /> Part #s:<br /> <br /> GM 12 38 572<br /> <br /> GM 12 38 786<br /> <br /> GM 12 569 241<br /> <br /> GM 1238572<br /> <br /> GM 16 040 609<br /> <br /> GM 16009886<br /> <br /> GM 16038012<br /> <br /> GM 16040609<br /> <br /> GM 1620537<br /> <br /> GM 45 00 031<br /> <br /> GM 62 35 695<br /> <br /> GM 9 160 331<br /> <br /> Isuzu 8-12569-241-0<br /> <br /> Isuzu 8-16040-609-0<br /> <br /> Lucas SEB801<br /> <br /> Renault 77 00 267 701<br /> <br /> Volvo 1336384<br /> <br /> <br /> Vehicles:<br /> <br /> OPEL Monterey 3.0 <br /> <br /> OPEL Movano 2.8 <br /> <br /> OPEL Omega Lotus 3.6 <br /> <br /> RENAULT 21 2.0 <br /> <br /> RENAULT 25 2.5 <br /> <br /> RENAULT Safrane 3.0 <br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Carlton 3.6 <br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Movano 2.8 <br /> <br /> VOLVO 740 2.0 <br /> <br /> VOLVO 740 2.3 <br /> <br /> VOLVO 740 Estate/Combi 2.0 <br /> <br /> VOLVO 740 Estate/Combi 2.3 <br /> <br /> VOLVO 760 2.3 <br /> <br /> VOLVO 760 Estate/Combi 2.3 <br /> <br /> VAUXHALL Monterey 3.0<br /> <br /> <br /> Adam (ashm) 8/10/2010<br /> <br /> == External Links ==<br /> * [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lotus_Carlton Lotus Carlton] on Wikipedia<br /> * [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAP_sensor MAP Sensor] on Wikipedia<br /> * [http://www.RockAuto.com RockAuto] for spare parts<br /> [[Category:Components]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Manifold_Air_Pressure_(MAP)_sensor 2010-09-29T12:27:26Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>==Location==<br /> <br /> The MAP sensor looks like this:<br /> <br /> [[Image:MAP_sensor.jpg|150px]]<br /> <br /> It is located almost centrally on the bulkhead:<br /> <br /> [[Image:MAP_sensor_location_1.jpg|150px]]<br /> <br /> Just behind the plenum:<br /> <br /> [[Image:MAP_sensor_location_2.jpg|150px]]<br /> <br /> The pressure is monitored on the right hand side of the plenum:<br /> <br /> [[Image:MAP_sensor_plenum_connection.jpg|150px]].<br /> <br /> <br /> ==Preliminary Investigation==<br /> <br /> [http://www.RockAuto.com RockAuto] list the following MAP sensors under 1990 | ISUZU | IMPULSE | 1.6L 1588cc L4 MFI (5) | Emission | MAP Sensor:<br /> <br /> STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # AS5T {TRU-TECH}<br /> <br /> STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # AS5 {MAP SENSOR}<br /> <br /> BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1580380 ----------------- No longer listed by RockAuto -----------------<br /> <br /> ACDELCO Part # 2131520 {#16009886} SENSOR,MAP<br /> <br /> DELPHI Part # PS1007511B1<br /> <br /> A search for &quot;ACDELCO 213-1520&quot; threw up that it is common to the [http://www.lotuscarlton.co.uk/parts.htm Lotus Carlton]† and referred back to RockAuto and 1990 PONTIAC SUNBIRD LE 2.0L 122cid L4 MFI Turbo (M).<br /> <br /> The Sunbird is listed in [http://www.diy-efi.org/gmecm/component_info/sensors.html this GM sensor cross reference] that Neil highlighted [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4774 here].<br /> <br /> Note:<br /> <br /> † Further down is a reference to:<br /> <br /> AC Delco Ltd (London)<br /> OCW 19 Wandsworth Rd<br /> Unit 14<br /> Perrivale<br /> UB6 7LS<br /> Neil tel 0208 8104595<br /> <br /> <br /> Geoff 31/1/08<br /> <br /> == GM Replacement ==<br /> <br /> Camberley Auto Factors (www.camberleyautofactors.com) were able to look up the GM reference 16009886 and ordered in a replacement for about £42.<br /> <br /> Adam (ashm) 29/09/2010<br /> <br /> == External Links ==<br /> * [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lotus_Carlton Lotus Carlton] on Wikipedia<br /> * [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAP_sensor MAP Sensor] on Wikipedia<br /> * [http://www.RockAuto.com RockAuto] for spare parts<br /> [[Category:Components]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Compression_test 2010-07-15T20:51:32Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>Compression test values for reference.<br /> <br /> &quot;Compression mods&quot; includes any work that might have altered the stock compression ratio, including custom pistons or rods, head skim or spacers/shims. <br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; align=&quot;center&quot;<br /> ! user <br /> ! year <br /> ! model <br /> ! age <br /> ! mileage <br /> ! warm/cold <br /> ! wet/dry <br /> ! pressures <br /> ! strokes <br /> ! tester<br /> ! compression mods<br /> |-<br /> | ashm <br /> | 1991 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 18 <br /> | 59k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 170/170/165/165 <br /> | 4/4/5/5<br /> | Gunsons <br /> | none<br /> |-<br /> | Monty<br /> | 1990 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 19 <br /> | 84k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 160/150/155/160 <br /> | 5 to 6<br /> | Screwfix<br /> | Throttle fully open, Head skimmed<br /> |-<br /> | Dico<br /> | 1993<br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 16<br /> | 47k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 160/155/155/160 <br /> | 5 to 6<br /> | <br /> | Throttle fully open<br /> |-<br /> | Rambo<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 160/160/160/160 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | chrishewett<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 165/165/165/165 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | RichieP<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 140/140/140/140 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | andyhaworth<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 150/150/150/150 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | MikeyDude<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | cold<br /> | dry<br /> | 158/153/145/150 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | Mike_H<br /> | 1991<br /> | SE Turbo<br /> | 18<br /> | 40000<br /> | warm<br /> | dry<br /> | 185/180/175/175 <br /> | 5<br /> | Gunsons<br /> | Throttle open<br /> |-<br /> | Specky<br /> | 1991<br /> | SE Turbo<br /> | 18<br /> | 75000<br /> | warm<br /> | dry<br /> | 148/149/150/148 <br /> | <br /> | Gunsons<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | Specky<br /> | 1989<br /> | NA<br /> | 21<br /> | 80000<br /> | cold<br /> | dry<br /> | 150/150/150/150 <br /> | <br /> | Gunsons<br /> | Alarm bells low pressure<br /> |-<br /> | Manou <br /> | 1993<br /> | SE Turbo<br /> | 21<br /> | 64000<br /> | cold<br /> | dry<br /> | 135/128/122/130 <br /> | <br /> |<br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | ashm <br /> | 1991 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 19 <br /> | 70k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 165/170/170/165 <br /> | 6/6/6/6<br /> | Gunsons <br /> | none<br /> |-<br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Monty: Test done with engine up to running temp, Throttle fully open, all spark plugs removed. Engine turned over approx 6 revolutions per each test.<br /> Used compression tester from Screwfix <br /> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/16856/Van-Car-Accessories/Mechanics-Tools/Compression-Tester?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Van%20and%20Car%20Accessories-_-Compression%20Tester#<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:monty.jpg]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Oil_filter 2010-05-26T13:02:54Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>An interesting bit of [http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilters.html background reading] (to be taken at face value) before rushing out and buying the cheapest filter! Apparently, the filter is common to all 4 cylinder Hondas from 1985 - 2007 (not confirmed) so sourcing one shouldn't be a problem. Some reported equivalents are as follows:<br /> <br /> == OEM ==<br /> <br /> '''Crosland oil filter number 672'''<br /> <br /> This filter is currently (2009) being supplied by Lotus.<br /> <br /> == UK sourced ==<br /> <br /> Champion F110<br /> <br /> www.Japspareparts.co.uk (duff link) ADS72101<br /> <br /> [http://www.knfilters.com/oil_filter/lotus_elan.aspx K&amp;N] HP-1004 with 25mm hex key for '''very''' easy removal.<br /> <br /> PURFLUX LS489A = 86 71 002 038 available from Renault dealers. (Quality AND cheap!)<br /> <br /> Fram PH6811<br /> <br /> Mahle OC-230<br /> <br /> == French sourced ==<br /> <br /> Purflux LS 489 A<br /> <br /> == US sourced ==<br /> <br /> Mobil (Mobil 1) M1-104<br /> <br /> == Oz sourced ==<br /> <br /> Purolator PureOne PL14459<br /> <br /> AC PF1127<br /> <br /> Motorcraft FL-810<br /> <br /> Castrol MaxPro Plus CMP3593A<br /> <br /> QuakerState QS3593B<br /> <br /> WIX 51334ST<br /> <br /> MANN (german company): part # W811/80<br /> <br /> == Specification ==<br /> (K&amp;N HP-1004)<br /> <br /> Height: 3.41 in (87 mm)<br /> <br /> Outside Diameter: 3.14 in (80 mm)<br /> <br /> Thread Inside Diameter: M20 x 1.5-6H <br /> <br /> PSI Relief Valve: 11-17<br /> <br /> Anti Drain Back Valve: Yes<br /> <br /> Style: Canister<br /> <br /> Bypass Valve: Yes<br /> <br /> Weight: 0.6 lb (0.3 kg)<br /> <br /> [[Category:Components]]<br /> [[Category:Maintenance]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Aerial 2010-05-26T12:36:53Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>The radio aerial on the back wing is a Blaupunkt (i.e. Bosch) Autoflex helical whip aerial with alternating wiring direction - code number 8 698 114 571 (as per the UK 2005 catalogue). You should be able to order them through any Blaupunkt dealer (got mine from Halfords) and they cost a fraction of what Lotus charge. (Lotus Pt No A100M0170S)<br /> <br /> N.B. This aerial has a fine thread M4 x 0.5 bolt that screws in to the aerial mounting on the wing. From my experience Lotus has used different threads on the aerials at different times so worth checking your old one first. If it is different, then you will need to buy the complete Autoflex unit including the mounting block (code 7 691 270 001). Should still be a lot cheaper than buying a replacement Lotus aerial which may not fit your existing Lotus mounting block anyway (the last Lotus one I bought didn't). <br /> <br /> Be careful, there is a Hirschmann aerial/mast which the larger M5 x 1 thread. It's an identical part except for the screw thread. Your car could be fitted with either after 20 years. <br /> <br /> P.S. For the more technically minded the Bosch areial is an 'active' aerial. There is also a 'passive' version, code 8 698 141 571.<br /> <br /> As of the Mar 2010 this aerial is now obsolete from Blaupunkt (Bluespot)www.bluespot.co.uk<br /> <br /> Old stock available from:-<br /> <br /> &lt;strike&gt;http://www.truckstophawkes.co.uk £26.00 ea plus postage plus vat..&lt;/strike&gt;<br /> <br /> http://www.sjsportscars.co.uk/ £36.78 ea plus postage plus vat..<br /> <br /> This may be the your last chance to find some thing that looks OEM<br /> <br /> HIRSCHMANN AERIAL 921 186-002 .......Warnig....It has a M5 x 1 screw thread</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Discounts 2010-02-23T09:27:54Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>== Rock Auto==<br /> [http://www.rockauto.com RockAuto] and [http://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com current 5% discount codes].<br /> <br /> ===LEC members' codes:===<br /> {|border=1<br /> !Code<br /> !Expiry<br /> |-<br /> |[http://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com 1068994935887]<br /> |December 7th, 2008<br /> |-<br /> |[http://www.rockauto.com 28373052343857]<br /> |April 25, 2010<br /> |}<br /> <br /> &lt;pre&gt;<br /> Thank you for being a www.RockAuto.com customer! To show our appreciation, we have a special discount for you.<br /> <br /> Here's how to use it:<br /> * Get a current discount code from the link above.<br /> * Enter your code in the &quot;How did you hear about us&quot; line of the shopping cart.<br /> * If you are using our traditional HTML catalog, please click the &quot;Set&quot; button to the right of the field.<br /> * Your discount will automatically appear, subtracted from your order total.<br /> <br /> **NOTE: We sometimes get calls from people who put the word &quot;discount&quot;<br /> in front of their code and do not get the discount. Please enter ONLY<br /> the discount code, no other words or numbers.**<br /> <br /> The discount takes 5% off our already-low prices, and there's no limit<br /> on order size or the number of orders. Use the code for your next<br /> order, and share the code with friends, neighbors, relatives, the guy at<br /> the corner garage--anyone you know who works on cars or trucks.<br /> &lt;/pre&gt;<br /> <br /> REMEMBER THE WIKI!</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Engine_oil 2009-12-20T03:49:49Z

<p>Ashm: /* What LEC members are using… */</p> <hr /> <div>[http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11127&amp;postdays=0&amp;postorder=asc&amp;start=0 Also see LEC…]<br /> <br /> <br /> * The original Lotus Service notes recommends 3.5 litres including filter change of 10W/30 SF or SG, 15W/40 SF or SG, Mobil One 5W/50 SG <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * If it were a new car the oil choice would be straight forward, just follow the manufacturer’s recommendation. Unfortunately the Lotus recommendation is 17 years old and oil has moved on a bit.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == What the numbers mean… 10W/40 etc ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * The numbers show the relationship between modern multi grade oils and the SAE single grades. <br /> <br /> <br /> While your lawnmower engine, being small, slow running, and used mainly when it’s warm, will run happily on SAE 30, a car engine needs something thin enough to pump instantly to the camshaft when cold, but thick enough to maintain the pressure when hot. <br /> <br /> <br /> 10W 40 means its starts from cold with the same flowing characteristics as a SAE 10 single grade oil, but rather than thinning as the temperature rises as an SAE 10 would, it thins no more than a SAE 40. Similarly a 5W 50 starts off as a 5 when the ambient temperature is -18°C and doesn’t thin anymore than a SAE 50 by the time the oil is boiling. <br /> <br /> <br /> You might wonder why you would ever need a 0W, it’s the same as a 5W with an extra bit of something that keeps it pourable under even worse conditions. <br /> <br /> <br /> We used to consider Duckham’s 20W 50 as being a thick oil and now we have fully synthetic 10W 60 being recommended. Fortunately the synthetic oils flow better generally, so the comparison is not exact. <br /> <br /> <br /> In the middle of the UK 10W-40 would be a good choice. 5W-30 would be more appropriate for Norway and 15W-50 for North Africa. Then there are track days… <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == Some of the things said on the subject of engine oil. ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * Castrol say: <br /> <br /> <br /> Changing the oil every 6 months Magnatec 10W-40 SS would do a good job. Doing any track days, EDGE 10W-60 FS would offer better performance and protection. <br /> <br /> <br /> For the extra cost they recommend EDGE 10W-60 FS anyway, but do the oil change once a year for low mileage cars, as it will easily do the mileage. <br /> <br /> <br /> They also recommend EDGE Turbo Diesel 5W-40 and EDGE 5W-30<br /> <br /> <br /> * On reading some of the posts in early February 2008 Castrol added…<br /> <br /> <br /> It seems that everyone uses different oil and each are happy so in theory you can use what you like!! Lots of oils will work - but the question is, which one works the best? At the end of the day, everyone will have their favourite, and everyone will have an opinion, but as long as everyone feels they are using what's best for them - great.<br /> <br /> <br /> Regarding the &quot;don't use a xW-60, but an xW- 50 is ok&quot; - the difference between a 50 and a 60 at 100 degrees is 2.5 centistokes ( i.e. not much ) whereas an xW-40W is around 13 centistokes so quite a bit thinner !<br /> <br /> <br /> The Formula RS has been replaced by the EDGE Sport 10W-60 which is Castrol's ultimate high performance oil for high powered and tuned engines - We also produce EDGE 10W-60 which is a retail version of TWS Motorsport , a specific BMW formulation for their &quot;M&quot; series engines ( the only oil BMW recommend for the M series for ultimate performance and protection )<br /> <br /> <br /> Looking at my specifications lists Lotus are now recommending as an initial viscosity, a 10W-60 for Élan Se and S2 (89 – 95) with a note “MINIMUM high temperature viscosity of 50 to 60”<br /> <br /> <br /> For temperate climates – the note says 10W-30 to 5W-50<br /> <br /> <br /> Castrol offer a 10W-60 because of our extensive knowledge and experience with high performance engines (take the BMW F1 team cars we lubricate as an example) and we feel that this product offers the best high performance option, based on protection rather than just efficiency.<br /> <br /> <br /> We also recommend this oil for TVR, Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati etc – We haven't had any issues at all with its use that I am aware of.<br /> <br /> <br /> * ESM says: <br /> <br /> <br /> Fully synthetic oils are the best by some distance. Friction losses in engines drops by around 4% with a synthetic oil - this gives more power and more economy. They also are the most effective at limiting wear - which is why many engines are best run in with a non-synthetic. <br /> <br /> <br /> Some older engines (I mean older, I don't mean late 80s) need a more viscous oil because the bearing clearances are larger. Chris Foulds doesn't like synthetics too much largely because of this. <br /> <br /> <br /> Different oils swell/shrink seals differently. So if you have a borderline seal. One oil may be worse than another for loss through that seal. Which oil minimises your loss may vary depending on which seal causes the leak because all seals aren't all of the same composition. Oil formulation is scarily basic when it comes to seal compatibility; they are formulated with a mixture of elements known to cause either seal shrinkage or swell which are balanced to break even(ish). So worse oil loss isn't necessarily a synthetic vs semi or non-synthetic oil issue more a formulation to formulation issue (if Mobil 1 gives you issues another synthetic 0W40 oil might be better). <br /> <br /> <br /> Synthetic oils can achieve low cold viscosities. So HVLs will pressurise faster with them, although any drips from leaky seals will be worse for the same reason. I'd certainly go 0W for choice. I prefer a W40 because it will give greater engine protection than a W30 (as a result of its higher viscosity) and the last approval Lotus issued was for a 0W40 not a 0W30. That's not to say a W30 won't be ok and it will incur less in the way of viscous losses but I'd say the Elan's engine is from the W40 oil technology era and so I stick with that because clearances etc are likely to have been designed with that level of viscosity in mind. <br /> <br /> <br /> Engines run with synthetic oils are cleaner, if you put synthetic oil in an engine previously run on non-synthetic you can dislodge a lot of gunge so run a short first oil/filter change interval if you switch. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * Amsoil says: <br /> <br /> To use any 60 grade oil in these engines is crazy. This is the thickest grade of engine oil there is. Whilst we sell a 60 grade its confined to pre war Harley Davidsons and nitro drag cars whose superchargers force the fuel past the rings (if they have them) and into the oil therby diluting it; so they start thick to end up with something that will let the engine survive. <br /> If you are tracking your car and the temperatures are so high that the use of a 60 grade oil means that its effectively a 30 or 40 at these temperatures then please ask yourselves about the efficiency of the rad or oil coolers (if fitted) Bottom line is get the temperatures down and use the correct grade. The engine oil is meant to be an indespensible part of the engines system rather than being used as a prop. The problem with thick oil is that it causes more friction / pumping losses which in itself creats extra heat , robs power and efficiency and can actually lead to oil starvation when an oil pump cavitates. <br /> Edge is a good product but please stick to what the manufactures originally specified. The improvements in oil which mainly refer to the appearance of full synthetics, have resulted in very much stonger and longerlasting products. Amsoils products are at least 3-5 times the film strength of mineral oils and this strength allows the use of thinner oils to advantage. <br /> Not too sure how a synthetic oil can be thinner than a mineral oil? If it where it would just be graded differently so that it would be the same , if that makes sense.<br /> <br /> <br /> * And...<br /> <br /> Be a bit careful with oils that have a gap between the 2 numbers of 40 or even more. (ie 0w-40 5w-50 etc) These are generally 'weak' oils that have additives (VI's) viscocity improvers to stretch the difference between cold and hot thickness. The VI's resist the thinning effects of heat so the 5w-50 is actually a 5 grade oil that with the added VI's doesnt thin down like it should and when new can maintain a 50 grade hot. The VI's are long molecule chains and as such are litterally chopped up and broken by the piston rings and engine heat. They then cannot stop the natural thinning, and the oil that you thought was thick is now no longer. You are better off with a quality 20w-50 unless you wish to change the oil often.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == On the subject of high mileage engines ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> [http://lotuselancentral.com/forum/viewtopic.php...28&amp;highlight=1 Also see here] <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * Here’s what Castrol had to say. <br /> <br /> <br /> If the engine was very dirty, and had not had regular oil changes, and the engine has a bit of wear - then it is possible where there could be some carbon deposits built up around the valve guide seals and piston rings where this carbon is actually providing a final seal - if an engine oil with good detergent properties is used, then over time it can clean away the deposits and you could get some extra usage - but you wouldn't see this straight away. <br /> A more likely scenario could be that the oil is oxidised so it is thicker - when you change the oil, the new oil will be thinner and would also show up any wear - especially is it a synthetic which tend to be thinner than the equivalent mineral oils. <br /> If in doubt then a semi synthetic would probably be better bet - detergents in oil don't necessarily &quot;clean&quot; the engine, but stop dirt sticking to it, and hold it in the oil so when it's changed the dirt is flushed away.<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> From this you could assume for high mileage engines that have always been running on semi synthetic oil it may be best to stick with it. <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> == What LEC members are using… ==<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> * Gareth: Changed from 10W/30 to 10W/40 <br /> <br /> <br /> * Paul: Duckhams 10W/40 to Castrol Edge Sport 0W/40 found a slight leak, going back to 10W-40 <br /> <br /> <br /> * Muley, Jim: I’ve Been using Mobil 0W/40 but switched to the Castrol Edge 0W/40 as the car had nearly 70,000 miles. Now Mobil 5W/40<br /> <br /> <br /> * Paul P: Castrol RS 0W/60 FS 110,000miles <br /> <br /> <br /> * Simon P: Put 0W FS in - Made the valve lifters noisy so switched back to 10W its quiet again (10W?) <br /> <br /> <br /> * Kmckmc: Shell 5W/40 - Castrol FORMULA RS 10W/50 - Mobile One 5W/50 - Selenia 10W/60 - Shell Ultra Helix 5W/40 - Fuchs Titan Super Syn 5W/50 <br /> <br /> <br /> * Elanlover: From &quot;unknown&quot; to Amsoil synthetic Euro spec 5W/40 - engine and tappets much quieter <br /> <br /> <br /> * ScottJ: Halfords 5W/40 FS since purchase at 115,000 till now at 142,000. <br /> <br /> <br /> * L.G: Shell 5W/40 FS to Mobil 15W/50 MS(mineral) back to Shell 5W/40 FS because oil pressure light stayed on for a split second after starting the engine. Now back to normal.<br /> <br /> <br /> * Josler: Mobil One 0W/40. Turbo. Complained of noise. Changed to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 SS <br /> <br /> <br /> * Johnny: 15W/50 FS (Make?) <br /> <br /> <br /> * LGM: Valvoline VR1 Racing 10W/30 FS Used Mobile 0W/40 FS with good results. Tried Castrol 5W/30 FS but found lifters were clattering for awhile. <br /> <br /> <br /> * The Bard: Mobil 5W/30 FS <br /> <br /> <br /> * Ekapol: From SS Castrol 5W/30 to FS Mobil One 10W/30 engine is much quieter. <br /> <br /> <br /> * Enright: Mobil One 0W/40 FS <br /> <br /> <br /> * Oliver: Elf LDX 5W/40 The HVL's seem quieter than they used to with Mobil One 0w-40. Doesn't appear to burn any either (87k miles). <br /> <br /> <br /> * Rambo: Shell Helix Ultra 5W/40 <br /> <br /> <br /> * Ultimatt: Reverting back to Mobil One 0W/40 FS <br /> <br /> <br /> * markVasey: From Mobil 15W/50 to Castrol Magnetec 10W/40 - N/A (still burning oil) <br /> <br /> <br /> * Rip: Edge Sport 10W-60 1990 SE Turbo 74000 miles <br /> <br /> <br /> * RayD: Valvoline Syn Power 5W/50 FS, to Valvoline VR1 Racing 5W/50 FS 40,000 miles, SE Turbo ... Changed to Q8 Techno 5W/30 FS.<br /> <br /> <br /> * Dico: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 FS 44,000 miles, Turbo Purchase car 4 years ago at 30,000 miles. Changed oil and filter every 3000 miles. <br /> <br /> <br /> * Sy: Mobil 1 fully synthetic 0/40 70,000 - 110,000 miles, SE Turbo <br /> Changed engine about 3,000 miles ago because old engine was burning oil regardless of type. <br /> <br /> <br /> * Clemo: Redline Racing oil. 5W/30 FS <br /> Full engine rebuild 6000 miles ago. NA now reading 116000. changing oil and filter every spring . Covering about 900 miles a year. Using Redline MTL gearbox oil. <br /> <br /> <br /> * Martin R: Silkolene 10w/50<br /> <br /> <br /> * Specky: Mobil Super S 10W/40( .....Edit.... very noisy lifters..Looking for an Alternative)<br /> <br /> <br /> * Steve A: Mobil One 0W/40 52,000 miles<br /> <br /> <br /> * Dermotbell: Castrol Edge 10W/60<br /> <br /> <br /> * Monty: Mainly used Mobil 0w/40 and Ocasionly Halfords 5w/40 but Pinky is using a wee bit of oil. So Just done a service with Comma Motorsports full synthetic 5w/50 and K &amp; N oil filter.<br /> <br /> <br /> * Paza1: Unknown oil with Lotus filter, Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic with Lotus filter, then Mobil 1 0w/40 with Lotus filter. Update, lifters too noisey, back to Halfords 5W/40 full synthetic.<br /> <br /> <br /> * mnemonix: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50<br /> <br /> <br /> * bobbrown: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50<br /> <br /> <br /> * nicowalker: Mobil 1 Motorsport, fully synthetic 15/50<br /> <br /> <br /> * ashm: Castrol Edge TD 5W-40</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Compression_test 2009-10-25T20:56:31Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>Compression test values for reference.<br /> <br /> &quot;Compression mods&quot; includes any work that might have altered the stock compression ratio, including custom pistons or rods, head skim or spacers/shims. <br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; align=&quot;center&quot;<br /> ! user <br /> ! year <br /> ! model <br /> ! age <br /> ! mileage <br /> ! warm/cold <br /> ! wet/dry <br /> ! pressures <br /> ! strokes <br /> ! tester<br /> ! compression mods<br /> |-<br /> | ashm <br /> | 1991 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 18 <br /> | 59k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 170/170/165/165 <br /> | 4/4/5/5<br /> | Gunsons <br /> | none<br /> |-<br /> | Monty<br /> | 1990 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 19 <br /> | 84k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 160/150/155/160 <br /> | 5 to 6<br /> | Screwfix<br /> | Throttle fully open, Head skimmed<br /> |-<br /> | Dico<br /> | 1993<br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 16<br /> | 47k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 160/155/155/160 <br /> | 5 to 6<br /> | <br /> | Throttle fully open<br /> |-<br /> | Rambo<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 160/160/160/160 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | chrishewett<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 165/165/165/165 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | RichieP<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 140/140/140/140 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | andyhaworth<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 150/150/150/150 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | MikeyDude<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | cold<br /> | dry<br /> | 158/153/145/150 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | Mike_H<br /> | <br /> | Turbo<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | cold<br /> | dry<br /> | 185/180/175/175 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Monty: Test done with engine up to running temp, Throttle fully open, all spark plugs removed. Engine turned over approx 6 revolutions per each test.<br /> Used compression tester from Screwfix <br /> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/16856/Van-Car-Accessories/Mechanics-Tools/Compression-Tester?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Van%20and%20Car%20Accessories-_-Compression%20Tester#<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:monty.jpg]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Compression_test 2009-10-25T20:53:34Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>Compression test values for reference.<br /> <br /> &quot;Compression mods&quot; includes any work that might have altered the stock compression ratio, including custom pistons or rods, head skim or spacers/shims. <br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; align=&quot;center&quot;<br /> ! user <br /> ! year <br /> ! model <br /> ! age <br /> ! mileage <br /> ! warm/cold <br /> ! wet/dry <br /> ! pressures <br /> ! strokes to max <br /> ! tester<br /> ! compression mods<br /> |-<br /> | ashm <br /> | 1991 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 18 <br /> | 59k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 170/170/165/165 <br /> | 4/4/5/5<br /> | Gunsons <br /> | none<br /> |-<br /> | Monty<br /> | 1990 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 19 <br /> | 84k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 160/150/155/160 <br /> | 5 to 6<br /> | Screwfix<br /> | Throttle fully open, Head skimmed<br /> |-<br /> | Dico<br /> | 1993<br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 16<br /> | 47k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 160/155/155/160 <br /> | 5 to 6<br /> | <br /> | Throttle fully open<br /> |-<br /> | Rambo<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 160/160/160/160 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | chrishewett<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 165/165/165/165 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | RichieP<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 140/140/140/140 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | andyhaworth<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 150/150/150/150 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | MikeyDude<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | cold<br /> | dry<br /> | 158/153/145/150 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Monty: Test done with engine up to running temp, Throttle fully open, all spark plugs removed. Engine turned over approx 6 revolutions per each test.<br /> Used compression tester from Screwfix <br /> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/16856/Van-Car-Accessories/Mechanics-Tools/Compression-Tester?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Van%20and%20Car%20Accessories-_-Compression%20Tester#<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:monty.jpg]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Compression_test 2009-10-25T20:49:33Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>Compression test values for reference.<br /> <br /> &quot;Compression mods&quot; includes any work that might have altered the stock compression ratio, including custom pistons or rods, head skim or spacers/shims. <br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; align=&quot;center&quot;<br /> ! user <br /> ! year <br /> ! model <br /> ! age <br /> ! mileage <br /> ! warm/cold <br /> ! wet/dry <br /> ! pressures <br /> ! strokes to max <br /> ! tester<br /> ! compression mods<br /> |-<br /> | ashm <br /> | 1991 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 18 <br /> | 59k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 170/170/165/165 <br /> | 4/4/5/5<br /> | Gunsons <br /> | none<br /> |-<br /> | Monty<br /> | 1990 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 19 <br /> | 84k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 160/150/155/160 <br /> | 5 to 6<br /> | Screwfix<br /> | Throttle fully open, Head skimmed<br /> |-<br /> | Dico<br /> | 1993<br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 16<br /> | 47k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 160/155/155/160 <br /> | 5 to 6<br /> | <br /> | Throttle fully open<br /> |-<br /> | Rambo<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 160/160/160/160 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | chrishewett<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 165/165/165/165 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | RichieP<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 140/140/140/140 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |-<br /> | andyhaworth<br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | 150/150/150/150 <br /> | <br /> | <br /> | <br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Monty: Test done with engine up to running temp, Throttle fully open, all spark plugs removed. Engine turned over approx 6 revolutions per each test.<br /> Used compression tester from Screwfix <br /> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/16856/Van-Car-Accessories/Mechanics-Tools/Compression-Tester?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Van%20and%20Car%20Accessories-_-Compression%20Tester#<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:monty.jpg]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Compression_test 2009-10-25T20:25:31Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>Compression test values for reference.<br /> <br /> &quot;Compression mods&quot; includes any work that might have altered the stock compression ratio, including custom pistons or rods, head skim or spacers/shims. <br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; align=&quot;center&quot;<br /> ! user <br /> ! year <br /> ! model <br /> ! age <br /> ! mileage <br /> ! warm/cold <br /> ! wet/dry <br /> ! pressures <br /> ! strokes to max <br /> ! tester<br /> ! compression mods<br /> |-<br /> | ashm <br /> | 1991 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 18 <br /> | 59k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 170/170/165/165 <br /> | 4/4/5/5<br /> | Gunsons <br /> | none<br /> |-<br /> | Monty<br /> | 1990 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 19 <br /> | 84k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 160/150/155/160 <br /> | 5 to 6<br /> | Screwfix<br /> | Throttle fully open, Head skimmed<br /> |-<br /> | Dico<br /> | 1993<br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 16<br /> | 47k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 160/155/155/160 <br /> | 5 to 6<br /> | <br /> | Throttle fully open<br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Monty: Test done with engine up to running temp, Throttle fully open, all spark plugs removed. Engine turned over approx 6 revolutions per each test.<br /> Used compression tester from Screwfix <br /> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/16856/Van-Car-Accessories/Mechanics-Tools/Compression-Tester?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Van%20and%20Car%20Accessories-_-Compression%20Tester#<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:monty.jpg]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Compression_test 2009-10-25T20:24:52Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>Compression test values for reference.<br /> <br /> &quot;Compression mods&quot; includes any work that might have altered the stock compression ratio, including custom pistons or rods, head skim or spacers/shims. <br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; align=&quot;center&quot;<br /> ! user <br /> ! year <br /> ! model <br /> ! age <br /> ! mileage <br /> ! warm/cold <br /> ! wet/dry <br /> ! pressures <br /> ! strokes to max <br /> ! compression mods<br /> ! tester<br /> |-<br /> | ashm <br /> | 1991 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 18 <br /> | 59k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 170/170/165/165 <br /> | 4/4/5/5<br /> | Gunsons <br /> | none<br /> |-<br /> | Monty<br /> | 1990 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 19 <br /> | 84k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 160/150/155/160 <br /> | 5 to 6<br /> | Screwfix<br /> | Throttle fully open, Head skimmed<br /> |-<br /> | Dico<br /> | 1993<br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 16<br /> | 47k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 160/155/155/160 <br /> | 5 to 6<br /> | <br /> | Throttle fully open<br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Monty: Test done with engine up to running temp, Throttle fully open, all spark plugs removed. Engine turned over approx 6 revolutions per each test.<br /> Used compression tester from Screwfix <br /> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/16856/Van-Car-Accessories/Mechanics-Tools/Compression-Tester?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Van%20and%20Car%20Accessories-_-Compression%20Tester#<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:monty.jpg]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Compression_test 2009-10-25T20:20:22Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>Compression test values for reference.<br /> <br /> &quot;Compression mods&quot; includes any work that might have altered the stock compression ratio, including custom pistons or rods, head skim or spacers/shims. <br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; align=&quot;center&quot;<br /> ! user <br /> ! year <br /> ! model <br /> ! age <br /> ! mileage <br /> ! warm/cold <br /> ! wet/dry <br /> ! pressures <br /> ! strokes to max <br /> ! compression mods<br /> |-<br /> | ashm <br /> | 1991 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 18 <br /> | 59k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 170/170/165/165 <br /> | 4/4/5/5 <br /> | none<br /> |-<br /> | Monty<br /> | 1990 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 19 <br /> | 84k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 160/150/155/160 <br /> | 5 to 6<br /> | Throttle fully open, Head skimmed<br /> |-<br /> | Dico<br /> | 1993<br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 16<br /> | 47k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 160/155/155/160 <br /> | 5 to 6<br /> | Throttle fully open<br /> |}<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> Monty: Test done with engine up to running temp, Throttle fully open, all spark plugs removed. Engine turned over approx 6 revolutions per each test.<br /> Used compression tester from Screwfix <br /> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/16856/Van-Car-Accessories/Mechanics-Tools/Compression-Tester?cm_mmc=GoogleBase-_-Datafeed-_-Van%20and%20Car%20Accessories-_-Compression%20Tester#<br /> <br /> <br /> [[Image:monty.jpg]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Compression_test 2009-10-19T09:03:19Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>Compression test values for reference.<br /> <br /> &quot;Compression mods&quot; includes any work that might have altered the stock compression ratio, including custom pistons or rods, head skim or spacers/shims. <br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; align=&quot;center&quot;<br /> ! user <br /> ! year <br /> ! model <br /> ! age <br /> ! mileage <br /> ! warm/cold <br /> ! wet/dry <br /> ! pressures <br /> ! strokes to max <br /> ! compression mods<br /> |-<br /> | ashm <br /> | 1991 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 18 <br /> | 59k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 170/170/165/165 <br /> | 4/4/5/5 <br /> | none<br /> |}</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Compression_test 2009-10-19T09:02:53Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>Compression test values for reference.<br /> <br /> &quot;Compression mods&quot; includes any work that might have altered the stock compression ratio, including custom pistons or rods, head skim or spacers. <br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; align=&quot;center&quot;<br /> ! user <br /> ! year <br /> ! model <br /> ! age <br /> ! mileage <br /> ! warm/cold <br /> ! wet/dry <br /> ! pressures <br /> ! strokes to max <br /> ! compression mods<br /> |-<br /> | ashm <br /> | 1991 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 18 <br /> | 59k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 170/170/165/165 <br /> | 4/4/5/5 <br /> | none<br /> |}</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Compression_test 2009-10-19T09:02:31Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>Compression test values for reference.<br /> &quot;Compression mods&quot; includes any work that might have altered the stock compression ratio, including custom pistons or rods, head skim or spacers. <br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; align=&quot;center&quot;<br /> ! user <br /> ! year <br /> ! model <br /> ! age <br /> ! mileage <br /> ! warm/cold <br /> ! wet/dry <br /> ! pressures <br /> ! strokes to max <br /> ! compression mods<br /> |-<br /> | ashm <br /> | 1991 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 18 <br /> | 59k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 170/170/165/165 <br /> | 4/4/5/5 <br /> | none<br /> |}</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Compression_test 2009-10-19T09:02:16Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>Compression test values for reference.<br /> &quot;Compression mods&quot; includes any work that might have altered the stock compression ratio, including custom pistons or rods, head skim or spacers. <br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; align=&quot;center&quot;<br /> ! user <br /> ! year <br /> ! model <br /> ! age <br /> ! mileage <br /> ! warm/cold <br /> ! wet/dry <br /> ! pressures <br /> ! strokes to max <br /> ! compression mods<br /> |-<br /> | ashm <br /> | 1991 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 18 <br /> | 59k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 170/170/165/165 <br /> | 4/4/5/5 <br /> | none<br /> |}</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Compression_test 2009-10-19T09:01:39Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>Compression test values for reference.<br /> &quot;Compression mods&quot; includes any work that might have altered the stock compression ratio, including custom pistons or rods, head skim or spacers. <br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; align=&quot;center&quot;<br /> ! user <br /> ! year <br /> ! model <br /> ! age <br /> ! mileage <br /> ! warm/cold <br /> ! wet/dry <br /> ! pressures <br /> ! strokes to max <br /> ! compression mods<br /> |-<br /> | ashm <br /> | 1991 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 18 <br /> | 59k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 170/170/165/165 <br /> | 5/5/5/5 <br /> | none<br /> |}</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Compression_test 2009-10-19T09:00:53Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>Compression test values for reference.<br /> &quot;Compression mods&quot; includes any work that might have altered the stock compression ratio, including custom pistons or rods, head skim or spacers. <br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; align=&quot;center&quot;<br /> ! user <br /> ! year <br /> ! model <br /> ! age <br /> ! mileage <br /> ! warm/cold <br /> ! wet/dry <br /> ! pressures <br /> ! strokes to max <br /> ! compression mods<br /> |-<br /> | ashm <br /> | 1991 <br /> | SE Turbo <br /> | 18 <br /> | 59k <br /> | warm <br /> | dry <br /> | 170/170/165/165 <br /> | 5/5/6/6 <br /> | none<br /> |}</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Compression_test 2009-10-19T08:58:14Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>Compression test values for reference:<br /> <br /> {| border=&quot;1&quot; cellspacing=&quot;0&quot; <br /> cellpadding=&quot;5&quot; align=&quot;center&quot;<br /> ! user ! year ! model ! age ! mileage ! warm/cold ! wet/dry ! pressures ! strokes to max ! compression mods<br /> |-<br /> | ashm | 1991 | SE Turbo | 18 | 59k | warm | dry | 170/170/165/165 | 5/5/6/6 | stock pistons &amp; rods, no head skim<br /> |}<br /> <br /> ashm, '91 SE Turbo, 18yrs, 59k miles, stock rods &amp; pistons, warm, dry test:</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Compression_test 2009-10-18T22:06:13Z

<p>Ashm: New page: Compression test values for reference: ashm, 18yrs, 59k miles: 170/170/165/165 (warm test)</p> <hr /> <div>Compression test values for reference:<br /> <br /> ashm, 18yrs, 59k miles: 170/170/165/165 (warm test)</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Converting_SE_to_closed_loop_ECU 2009-10-12T09:23:03Z

<p>Ashm: /* Parts Needed */</p> <hr /> <div>__NOTOC__<br /> It is possible to convert the UK standard SE with an open loop ECU (9929 or 9239 PROM id) to run a closed loop program. <br /> <br /> The ''open loop''/''closed loop'' terms refer to the way that the ECU controls the mixture. In closed loop the ECU usually tries to achieve an a/f ratio of 14.7:1 - this is complete combustion of the mixture (or as close to it as the engine can get).<br /> <br /> The open loop ECU bases it's fuelling on the characteristics measured on a typical engine - there is essentially no loop. The a/f ratio is set slightly rich, at 14:1. This is a safety measure to prevent the mixture going [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lean_burn lean].<br /> <br /> The closed loop ECU follows these steps:<br /> <br /> # sets up the injectors <br /> # reads the output of an oxygen sensor mounted in the exhaust flow <br /> # adjusts an injector correction term if the sensor reading is lean or rich<br /> # loops back to step 1<br /> <br /> At high throttle openings the ECU uses fuel enrichment to suppress knock and in this event the narrow band oxygen sensor can no longer be usefully employed, as the mixture moves out of its measurement range, so the ECU operates in open loop mode until the normal 14.7:1 mixture is next required. <br /> <br /> === Why do it? ===<br /> <br /> Changing an SE to closed loop improves fuel economy (unless you go everywhere at full throttle) and removes any worry from the emissions tests at MOT time.<br /> If you're getting a &quot;Mountain Chip&quot; ECU upgrade and you've got a car with the necessary wiring, then for the cost of an O2 sensor (£22 to £90+ depending on the supplier) you can choose a closed loop chip and improve fuel economy by about 5mpg.<br /> <br /> === What's the catch? ===<br /> <br /> O2 sensors are usually quite pricy, because they're made of expensive things like platinum. They can also be a little fragile; a failure of the heater circuit or some silicone in your fuel can easily kill the sensor. They'll probably need replacing every 60k miles or so at most.<br /> Not all SE cars have the necessary O2 sensor wiring in place, so unless you check your main wiring harness you may find that you need to do some electrical work before your sensor &amp; ECU will talk to each other.<br /> <br /> == Parts Needed ==<br /> <br /> You need two things:<br /> # A standard narrow band (aka binary) oxygen sensor. They can readily be found on US car parts sites; look for an oxygen sensor listed under the '1991 Isuzu Impulse RS' application. DON'T pick a universal one, get one with the right plug on it. The Bosch 15701 is known to be suitable.<br /> # One of the following:<br /> ## A 1499 (S2 or 49 states federal) closed loop ECU or MEMCAL <br /> ## An upgrade chip based on the 1499 program (in the interest of full disclosure I should mention that I sell these!) ''[As an independant contributor, I can thoroughly recommend them - Geoff]''<br /> <br /> == Instructions ==<br /> [[Image:RHFHC.jpg]] [[Image:IPHC.jpg]]<br /> # Remove the driver's side front wheel arch liner and follow the right hand front wiring harness back to the bulkhead. It should end in the &quot;RHFHC&quot; wiring harness connector where it joins to the main harness. If you can't see the connector it might be on the other side of the bulkhead, above the driver's footwell. Inspect the connector; pins 4 and 8 serve the O2 sensor. If there are wires connected to these pins on the main harness side then the necessary circuits are probably all in place and you can skip the complicated bits. If not, you'll have to install your own wiring to serve the sensor:<br /> ## Remove the glovebox, dash binnacle (&quot;half moon&quot; thing above the instruments) and driver's side front wheel arch liner. Pass the end of some suitable signal wire from the passenger footwell behind the radio and over the back of the instrument panel. now take a length of 8-10A rated supply wire and tape it alongside the first wire. Pass the pair down to the right of the steering column and into the right end of the driver's footwell.<br /> ##Take about 8&quot; of thin steel wire, bend it double and push the bent end from the wheel arch through the bulkhead grommet alongside the main harness. From the driver's footwell, pass the two wires through the loop, then use the loop to draw the wires through the grommet into the wheel arch.<br /> ##Splice the new wires into the RHF harness. The signal wire connects to the wire on RHFHC pin 8, and the supply wire connects to the wire on pin 4.<br /> ##Disconnect the battery, return to the passenger footwell and unplug the ECU harness from the ECU. Connector pin D7 can be located using the markings on the connectors. The wire from this pin should be spliced to the footwell end of the signal wire.<br /> ##Return to the open binnacle cover. The &quot;IPHC&quot; harness connectors are on the left of the opening. Inspect the large black connector, disconnect it and identify the wire on the IP harness side of pin A15. Splice the binnacle end of the supply cable in here.<br /> ##Congratulations, you now have the necessary wiring! Check for good continuity from O2 sensor connector pin A to ECU harness connector pin D7, from O2 sensor connector pin B to IP harness connector pin A15 and from O2 sensor connector pin D to any earth point. Investigate and correct if necessary. Replace ECU (now's a good time to install your closed loop chip) and battery.<br /> # Under the bonnet you must remove the bung in the turbo housing, the one you can see through the hole in the turbo's heat shield. The sensor is fitted there instead. It will be tough to get out, use penetrating oil in advance and be prepared to apply a lot of force, damage to the casting is a possibility. One method that has worked when penetrating oil failed is to warm up the engine, then (with long pliars and safety goggles) hold ice cubes against the bung until they stop boiling violently. If you can't shift the bung with an 18&quot; bar then you probably need to encourage it with some more heat/cold/oil treatment. You'll need a 27mm socket. After the bung is out its all easy;<br /> # A wire brush can be useful to clean the threads in the housing. Fit the sensor (use a proper O2 sensor socket and the correct torque) but don't add anti-sieze unless you know what you're doing - the sensor should come with some already applied and the wrong type could damage the sensor.<br /> # Plug the sensor lead into the empty socket in the harness just by the engine mount (4 position connector in a 2x2 configuration with only three wires connected).<br /> # Fit the ECU/chip and you're done!<br /> <br /> [[Category:HowTo]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Converting_SE_to_closed_loop_ECU 2009-10-12T09:22:48Z

<p>Ashm: /* Parts Needed */</p> <hr /> <div>__NOTOC__<br /> It is possible to convert the UK standard SE with an open loop ECU (9929 or 9239 PROM id) to run a closed loop program. <br /> <br /> The ''open loop''/''closed loop'' terms refer to the way that the ECU controls the mixture. In closed loop the ECU usually tries to achieve an a/f ratio of 14.7:1 - this is complete combustion of the mixture (or as close to it as the engine can get).<br /> <br /> The open loop ECU bases it's fuelling on the characteristics measured on a typical engine - there is essentially no loop. The a/f ratio is set slightly rich, at 14:1. This is a safety measure to prevent the mixture going [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lean_burn lean].<br /> <br /> The closed loop ECU follows these steps:<br /> <br /> # sets up the injectors <br /> # reads the output of an oxygen sensor mounted in the exhaust flow <br /> # adjusts an injector correction term if the sensor reading is lean or rich<br /> # loops back to step 1<br /> <br /> At high throttle openings the ECU uses fuel enrichment to suppress knock and in this event the narrow band oxygen sensor can no longer be usefully employed, as the mixture moves out of its measurement range, so the ECU operates in open loop mode until the normal 14.7:1 mixture is next required. <br /> <br /> === Why do it? ===<br /> <br /> Changing an SE to closed loop improves fuel economy (unless you go everywhere at full throttle) and removes any worry from the emissions tests at MOT time.<br /> If you're getting a &quot;Mountain Chip&quot; ECU upgrade and you've got a car with the necessary wiring, then for the cost of an O2 sensor (£22 to £90+ depending on the supplier) you can choose a closed loop chip and improve fuel economy by about 5mpg.<br /> <br /> === What's the catch? ===<br /> <br /> O2 sensors are usually quite pricy, because they're made of expensive things like platinum. They can also be a little fragile; a failure of the heater circuit or some silicone in your fuel can easily kill the sensor. They'll probably need replacing every 60k miles or so at most.<br /> Not all SE cars have the necessary O2 sensor wiring in place, so unless you check your main wiring harness you may find that you need to do some electrical work before your sensor &amp; ECU will talk to each other.<br /> <br /> == Parts Needed ==<br /> <br /> You need two things:<br /> # A standard narrow band (aka binary) oxygen sensor. They can readily be found on US car parts sites; look for an oxygen sensor listed under the '1991 Isuzu Impulse RS' application. DON'T pick a universal one, get one with the right plug on it. The Bosch 15701 is known to work.<br /> # One of the following:<br /> ## A 1499 (S2 or 49 states federal) closed loop ECU or MEMCAL <br /> ## An upgrade chip based on the 1499 program (in the interest of full disclosure I should mention that I sell these!) ''[As an independant contributor, I can thoroughly recommend them - Geoff]''<br /> <br /> == Instructions ==<br /> [[Image:RHFHC.jpg]] [[Image:IPHC.jpg]]<br /> # Remove the driver's side front wheel arch liner and follow the right hand front wiring harness back to the bulkhead. It should end in the &quot;RHFHC&quot; wiring harness connector where it joins to the main harness. If you can't see the connector it might be on the other side of the bulkhead, above the driver's footwell. Inspect the connector; pins 4 and 8 serve the O2 sensor. If there are wires connected to these pins on the main harness side then the necessary circuits are probably all in place and you can skip the complicated bits. If not, you'll have to install your own wiring to serve the sensor:<br /> ## Remove the glovebox, dash binnacle (&quot;half moon&quot; thing above the instruments) and driver's side front wheel arch liner. Pass the end of some suitable signal wire from the passenger footwell behind the radio and over the back of the instrument panel. now take a length of 8-10A rated supply wire and tape it alongside the first wire. Pass the pair down to the right of the steering column and into the right end of the driver's footwell.<br /> ##Take about 8&quot; of thin steel wire, bend it double and push the bent end from the wheel arch through the bulkhead grommet alongside the main harness. From the driver's footwell, pass the two wires through the loop, then use the loop to draw the wires through the grommet into the wheel arch.<br /> ##Splice the new wires into the RHF harness. The signal wire connects to the wire on RHFHC pin 8, and the supply wire connects to the wire on pin 4.<br /> ##Disconnect the battery, return to the passenger footwell and unplug the ECU harness from the ECU. Connector pin D7 can be located using the markings on the connectors. The wire from this pin should be spliced to the footwell end of the signal wire.<br /> ##Return to the open binnacle cover. The &quot;IPHC&quot; harness connectors are on the left of the opening. Inspect the large black connector, disconnect it and identify the wire on the IP harness side of pin A15. Splice the binnacle end of the supply cable in here.<br /> ##Congratulations, you now have the necessary wiring! Check for good continuity from O2 sensor connector pin A to ECU harness connector pin D7, from O2 sensor connector pin B to IP harness connector pin A15 and from O2 sensor connector pin D to any earth point. Investigate and correct if necessary. Replace ECU (now's a good time to install your closed loop chip) and battery.<br /> # Under the bonnet you must remove the bung in the turbo housing, the one you can see through the hole in the turbo's heat shield. The sensor is fitted there instead. It will be tough to get out, use penetrating oil in advance and be prepared to apply a lot of force, damage to the casting is a possibility. One method that has worked when penetrating oil failed is to warm up the engine, then (with long pliars and safety goggles) hold ice cubes against the bung until they stop boiling violently. If you can't shift the bung with an 18&quot; bar then you probably need to encourage it with some more heat/cold/oil treatment. You'll need a 27mm socket. After the bung is out its all easy;<br /> # A wire brush can be useful to clean the threads in the housing. Fit the sensor (use a proper O2 sensor socket and the correct torque) but don't add anti-sieze unless you know what you're doing - the sensor should come with some already applied and the wrong type could damage the sensor.<br /> # Plug the sensor lead into the empty socket in the harness just by the engine mount (4 position connector in a 2x2 configuration with only three wires connected).<br /> # Fit the ECU/chip and you're done!<br /> <br /> [[Category:HowTo]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Converting_SE_to_closed_loop_ECU 2009-10-12T09:15:22Z

<p>Ashm: /* Instructions */</p> <hr /> <div>__NOTOC__<br /> It is possible to convert the UK standard SE with an open loop ECU (9929 or 9239 PROM id) to run a closed loop program. <br /> <br /> The ''open loop''/''closed loop'' terms refer to the way that the ECU controls the mixture. In closed loop the ECU usually tries to achieve an a/f ratio of 14.7:1 - this is complete combustion of the mixture (or as close to it as the engine can get).<br /> <br /> The open loop ECU bases it's fuelling on the characteristics measured on a typical engine - there is essentially no loop. The a/f ratio is set slightly rich, at 14:1. This is a safety measure to prevent the mixture going [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lean_burn lean].<br /> <br /> The closed loop ECU follows these steps:<br /> <br /> # sets up the injectors <br /> # reads the output of an oxygen sensor mounted in the exhaust flow <br /> # adjusts an injector correction term if the sensor reading is lean or rich<br /> # loops back to step 1<br /> <br /> At high throttle openings the ECU uses fuel enrichment to suppress knock and in this event the narrow band oxygen sensor can no longer be usefully employed, as the mixture moves out of its measurement range, so the ECU operates in open loop mode until the normal 14.7:1 mixture is next required. <br /> <br /> === Why do it? ===<br /> <br /> Changing an SE to closed loop improves fuel economy (unless you go everywhere at full throttle) and removes any worry from the emissions tests at MOT time.<br /> If you're getting a &quot;Mountain Chip&quot; ECU upgrade and you've got a car with the necessary wiring, then for the cost of an O2 sensor (£22 to £90+ depending on the supplier) you can choose a closed loop chip and improve fuel economy by about 5mpg.<br /> <br /> === What's the catch? ===<br /> <br /> O2 sensors are usually quite pricy, because they're made of expensive things like platinum. They can also be a little fragile; a failure of the heater circuit or some silicone in your fuel can easily kill the sensor. They'll probably need replacing every 60k miles or so at most.<br /> Not all SE cars have the necessary O2 sensor wiring in place, so unless you check your main wiring harness you may find that you need to do some electrical work before your sensor &amp; ECU will talk to each other.<br /> <br /> == Parts Needed ==<br /> <br /> You need two things:<br /> # A standard narrow band (aka binary) oxygen sensor. They can readily be found on US car parts sites; look for an oxygen sensor listed under the '1991 Isuzu Impulse RS' application. DON'T pick a universal one, get one with the right plug on it. <br /> # One of the following:<br /> ## A 1499 (S2 or 49 states federal) closed loop ECU or MEMCAL <br /> ## An upgrade chip based on the 1499 program (in the interest of full disclosure I should mention that I sell these!) ''[As an independant contributor, I can thoroughly recommend them - Geoff]''<br /> <br /> == Instructions ==<br /> [[Image:RHFHC.jpg]] [[Image:IPHC.jpg]]<br /> # Remove the driver's side front wheel arch liner and follow the right hand front wiring harness back to the bulkhead. It should end in the &quot;RHFHC&quot; wiring harness connector where it joins to the main harness. If you can't see the connector it might be on the other side of the bulkhead, above the driver's footwell. Inspect the connector; pins 4 and 8 serve the O2 sensor. If there are wires connected to these pins on the main harness side then the necessary circuits are probably all in place and you can skip the complicated bits. If not, you'll have to install your own wiring to serve the sensor:<br /> ## Remove the glovebox, dash binnacle (&quot;half moon&quot; thing above the instruments) and driver's side front wheel arch liner. Pass the end of some suitable signal wire from the passenger footwell behind the radio and over the back of the instrument panel. now take a length of 8-10A rated supply wire and tape it alongside the first wire. Pass the pair down to the right of the steering column and into the right end of the driver's footwell.<br /> ##Take about 8&quot; of thin steel wire, bend it double and push the bent end from the wheel arch through the bulkhead grommet alongside the main harness. From the driver's footwell, pass the two wires through the loop, then use the loop to draw the wires through the grommet into the wheel arch.<br /> ##Splice the new wires into the RHF harness. The signal wire connects to the wire on RHFHC pin 8, and the supply wire connects to the wire on pin 4.<br /> ##Disconnect the battery, return to the passenger footwell and unplug the ECU harness from the ECU. Connector pin D7 can be located using the markings on the connectors. The wire from this pin should be spliced to the footwell end of the signal wire.<br /> ##Return to the open binnacle cover. The &quot;IPHC&quot; harness connectors are on the left of the opening. Inspect the large black connector, disconnect it and identify the wire on the IP harness side of pin A15. Splice the binnacle end of the supply cable in here.<br /> ##Congratulations, you now have the necessary wiring! Check for good continuity from O2 sensor connector pin A to ECU harness connector pin D7, from O2 sensor connector pin B to IP harness connector pin A15 and from O2 sensor connector pin D to any earth point. Investigate and correct if necessary. Replace ECU (now's a good time to install your closed loop chip) and battery.<br /> # Under the bonnet you must remove the bung in the turbo housing, the one you can see through the hole in the turbo's heat shield. The sensor is fitted there instead. It will be tough to get out, use penetrating oil in advance and be prepared to apply a lot of force, damage to the casting is a possibility. One method that has worked when penetrating oil failed is to warm up the engine, then (with long pliars and safety goggles) hold ice cubes against the bung until they stop boiling violently. If you can't shift the bung with an 18&quot; bar then you probably need to encourage it with some more heat/cold/oil treatment. You'll need a 27mm socket. After the bung is out its all easy;<br /> # A wire brush can be useful to clean the threads in the housing. Fit the sensor (use a proper O2 sensor socket and the correct torque) but don't add anti-sieze unless you know what you're doing - the sensor should come with some already applied and the wrong type could damage the sensor.<br /> # Plug the sensor lead into the empty socket in the harness just by the engine mount (4 position connector in a 2x2 configuration with only three wires connected).<br /> # Fit the ECU/chip and you're done!<br /> <br /> [[Category:HowTo]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Converting_SE_to_closed_loop_ECU 2009-10-10T00:27:23Z

<p>Ashm: /* Instructions */</p> <hr /> <div>__NOTOC__<br /> It is possible to convert the UK standard SE with an open loop ECU (9929 or 9239 PROM id) to run a closed loop program. <br /> <br /> The ''open loop''/''closed loop'' terms refer to the way that the ECU controls the mixture. In closed loop the ECU usually tries to achieve an a/f ratio of 14.7:1 - this is complete combustion of the mixture (or as close to it as the engine can get).<br /> <br /> The open loop ECU bases it's fuelling on the characteristics measured on a typical engine - there is essentially no loop. The a/f ratio is set slightly rich, at 14:1. This is a safety measure to prevent the mixture going [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lean_burn lean].<br /> <br /> The closed loop ECU follows these steps:<br /> <br /> # sets up the injectors <br /> # reads the output of an oxygen sensor mounted in the exhaust flow <br /> # adjusts an injector correction term if the sensor reading is lean or rich<br /> # loops back to step 1<br /> <br /> At high throttle openings the ECU uses fuel enrichment to suppress knock and in this event the narrow band oxygen sensor can no longer be usefully employed, as the mixture moves out of its measurement range, so the ECU operates in open loop mode until the normal 14.7:1 mixture is next required. <br /> <br /> === Why do it? ===<br /> <br /> Changing an SE to closed loop improves fuel economy (unless you go everywhere at full throttle) and removes any worry from the emissions tests at MOT time.<br /> If you're getting a &quot;Mountain Chip&quot; ECU upgrade and you've got a car with the necessary wiring, then for the cost of an O2 sensor (£22 to £90+ depending on the supplier) you can choose a closed loop chip and improve fuel economy by about 5mpg.<br /> <br /> === What's the catch? ===<br /> <br /> O2 sensors are usually quite pricy, because they're made of expensive things like platinum. They can also be a little fragile; a failure of the heater circuit or some silicone in your fuel can easily kill the sensor. They'll probably need replacing every 60k miles or so at most.<br /> Not all SE cars have the necessary O2 sensor wiring in place, so unless you check your main wiring harness you may find that you need to do some electrical work before your sensor &amp; ECU will talk to each other.<br /> <br /> == Parts Needed ==<br /> <br /> You need two things:<br /> # A standard narrow band (aka binary) oxygen sensor. They can readily be found on US car parts sites; look for an oxygen sensor listed under the '1991 Isuzu Impulse RS' application. DON'T pick a universal one, get one with the right plug on it. <br /> # One of the following:<br /> ## A 1499 (S2 or 49 states federal) closed loop ECU or MEMCAL <br /> ## An upgrade chip based on the 1499 program (in the interest of full disclosure I should mention that I sell these!) ''[As an independant contributor, I can thoroughly recommend them - Geoff]''<br /> <br /> == Instructions ==<br /> [[Image:RHFHC.jpg]] [[Image:IPHC.jpg]]<br /> # Remove the driver's side front wheel arch liner. Inspect the &quot;RHFHC&quot; wiring harness connector near the bulkhead where the right hand front harness connects to the main harness. Pins 4 and 8 serve the O2 sensor. If there are wires connected to these pins on the main harness side (the one passing through the bulkhead towards the pedal box) then the necessary circuits are probably all in place and you can skip the complicated bits. If not, you'll have to install your own wiring to serve the sensor:<br /> ## Remove the glovebox, dash binnacle (&quot;half moon&quot; thing above the instruments) and driver's side front wheel arch liner. Pass the end of some suitable signal wire from the passenger footwell behind the radio and over the back of the instrument panel. now take a length of 8-10A rated supply wire and tape it alongside the first wire. Pass the pair down to the right of the steering column and into the right end of the driver's footwell.<br /> ##Take about 8&quot; of thin steel wire, bend it double and push the bent end from the wheel arch through the bulkhead grommet alongside the main harness. From the driver's footwell, pass the two wires through the loop, then use the loop to draw the wires through the grommet into the wheel arch.<br /> ##Splice the new wires into the RHF harness. The signal wire connects to the wire on RHFHC pin 8, and the supply wire connects to the wire on pin 4.<br /> ##Disconnect the battery, return to the passenger footwell and unplug the ECU harness from the ECU. Connector pin D7 can be located using the markings on the connectors. The wire from this pin should be spliced to the footwell end of the signal wire.<br /> ##Return to the open binnacle cover. The &quot;IPHC&quot; harness connectors are on the left of the opening. Inspect the large black connector, disconnect it and identify the wire on the IP harness side of pin A15. Splice the binnacle end of the supply cable in here.<br /> ##Congratulations, you now have the necessary wiring! Check for good continuity from O2 sensor connector pin A to ECU harness connector pin D7, from O2 sensor connector pin B to IP harness connector pin A15 and from O2 sensor connector pin D to any earth point. Investigate and correct if necessary. Replace ECU (now's a good time to install your closed loop chip) and battery.<br /> # Under the bonnet you must remove the bung in the turbo housing, the one you can see through the hole in the turbo's heat shield. The sensor is fitted there instead. It will be tough to get out, use penetrating oil in advance and be prepared to apply a lot of force, damage to the casting is a possibility. One method that has worked when penetrating oil failed is to warm up the engine, then (with long pliars and safety goggles) hold ice cubes against the bung until they stop boiling violently. If you can't shift the bung with an 18&quot; bar then you probably need to encourage it with some more heat/cold/oil treatment. You'll need a 27mm socket. After the bung is out its all easy;<br /> # A wire brush can be useful to clean the threads in the housing. Fit the sensor (use a proper O2 sensor socket and the correct torque) but don't add anti-sieze unless you know what you're doing - the sensor should come with some already applied and the wrong type could damage the sensor.<br /> # Plug the sensor lead into the empty socket in the harness just by the engine mount (4 position connector in a 2x2 configuration with only three wires connected).<br /> # Fit the ECU/chip and you're done!<br /> <br /> [[Category:HowTo]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Converting_SE_to_closed_loop_ECU 2009-10-10T00:23:32Z

<p>Ashm: /* Instructions */</p> <hr /> <div>__NOTOC__<br /> It is possible to convert the UK standard SE with an open loop ECU (9929 or 9239 PROM id) to run a closed loop program. <br /> <br /> The ''open loop''/''closed loop'' terms refer to the way that the ECU controls the mixture. In closed loop the ECU usually tries to achieve an a/f ratio of 14.7:1 - this is complete combustion of the mixture (or as close to it as the engine can get).<br /> <br /> The open loop ECU bases it's fuelling on the characteristics measured on a typical engine - there is essentially no loop. The a/f ratio is set slightly rich, at 14:1. This is a safety measure to prevent the mixture going [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lean_burn lean].<br /> <br /> The closed loop ECU follows these steps:<br /> <br /> # sets up the injectors <br /> # reads the output of an oxygen sensor mounted in the exhaust flow <br /> # adjusts an injector correction term if the sensor reading is lean or rich<br /> # loops back to step 1<br /> <br /> At high throttle openings the ECU uses fuel enrichment to suppress knock and in this event the narrow band oxygen sensor can no longer be usefully employed, as the mixture moves out of its measurement range, so the ECU operates in open loop mode until the normal 14.7:1 mixture is next required. <br /> <br /> === Why do it? ===<br /> <br /> Changing an SE to closed loop improves fuel economy (unless you go everywhere at full throttle) and removes any worry from the emissions tests at MOT time.<br /> If you're getting a &quot;Mountain Chip&quot; ECU upgrade and you've got a car with the necessary wiring, then for the cost of an O2 sensor (£22 to £90+ depending on the supplier) you can choose a closed loop chip and improve fuel economy by about 5mpg.<br /> <br /> === What's the catch? ===<br /> <br /> O2 sensors are usually quite pricy, because they're made of expensive things like platinum. They can also be a little fragile; a failure of the heater circuit or some silicone in your fuel can easily kill the sensor. They'll probably need replacing every 60k miles or so at most.<br /> Not all SE cars have the necessary O2 sensor wiring in place, so unless you check your main wiring harness you may find that you need to do some electrical work before your sensor &amp; ECU will talk to each other.<br /> <br /> == Parts Needed ==<br /> <br /> You need two things:<br /> # A standard narrow band (aka binary) oxygen sensor. They can readily be found on US car parts sites; look for an oxygen sensor listed under the '1991 Isuzu Impulse RS' application. DON'T pick a universal one, get one with the right plug on it. <br /> # One of the following:<br /> ## A 1499 (S2 or 49 states federal) closed loop ECU or MEMCAL <br /> ## An upgrade chip based on the 1499 program (in the interest of full disclosure I should mention that I sell these!) ''[As an independant contributor, I can thoroughly recommend them - Geoff]''<br /> <br /> == Instructions ==<br /> [[Image:RHFHC.jpg]] [[Image:IPHC.jpg]]<br /> # Remove the driver's side front wheel arch liner. Inspect the &quot;RHFHC&quot; wiring harness connector near the bulkhead where the right hand front harness connects to the main harness. Pins 4 and 8 serve the O2 sensor. If there are wires connected to these pins on the main harness side (the one passing through the bulkhead towards the pedal box) then the necessary circuits are probably all in place and you can skip the complicated bits. If not, you'll have to install your own wiring to serve the sensor.<br /> # If your car didn't come with the necessary wiring, remove the glovebox, dash binnacle (&quot;half moon&quot; thing above the instruments) and driver's side front wheel arch liner. Pass the end of some suitable signal wire from the passenger footwell behind the radio and over the back of the instrument panel. now take a length of 8-10A rated supply wire and tape it alongside the first wire. Pass the pair down to the right of the steering column and into the right end of the driver's footwell.<br /> #Take about 8&quot; of thin steel wire, bend it double and push the bent end from the wheel arch through the bulkhead grommet alongside the main harness. From the driver's footwell, pass the two wires through the loop, then use the loop to draw the wires through the grommet into the wheel arch.<br /> #Splice the new wires into the RHF harness. The signal wire connects to the wire on RHFHC pin 8, and the supply wire connects to the wire on pin 4.<br /> #Disconnect the battery, return to the passenger footwell and unplug the ECU harness from the ECU. Connector pin D7 can be located using the markings on the connectors. The wire from this pin should be spliced to the footwell end of the signal wire.<br /> #Return to the open binnacle cover. The &quot;IPHC&quot; harness connectors are on the left of the opening. Inspect the large black connector, disconnect it and identify the wire on the IP harness side of pin A15. Splice the binnacle end of the supply cable in here.<br /> #Congratulations, you now have the necessary wiring! Check for good continuity from O2 sensor connector pin A to ECU harness connector pin D7, from O2 sensor connector pin B to IP harness connector pin A15 and from O2 sensor connector pin D to any earth point. Investigate and correct if necessary. Replace ECU (now's a good time to install your closed loop chip) and battery.<br /> # Under the bonnet you must remove the bung in the turbo housing, the one you can see through the hole in the turbo's heat shield. The sensor is fitted there instead. It will be tough to get out, use penetrating oil in advance and be prepared to apply a lot of force, damage to the casting is a possibility. One method that has worked when penetrating oil failed is to warm up the engine, then (with long pliars and safety goggles) hold ice cubes against the bung until they stop boiling violently. If you can't shift the bung with an 18&quot; bar then you probably need to encourage it with some more heat/cold/oil treatment. You'll need a 27mm socket. After the bung is out its all easy;<br /> # A wire brush can be useful to clean the threads in the housing. Fit the sensor (use a proper O2 sensor socket and the correct torque) but don't add anti-sieze unless you know what you're doing - the sensor should come with some already applied and the wrong type could damage the sensor.<br /> # Plug the sensor lead into the empty socket in the harness just by the engine mount (4 position connector in a 2x2 configuration with only three wires connected).<br /> # Fit the ECU/chip and you're done!<br /> <br /> [[Category:HowTo]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Converting_SE_to_closed_loop_ECU 2009-10-10T00:22:02Z

<p>Ashm: /* Instructions */</p> <hr /> <div>__NOTOC__<br /> It is possible to convert the UK standard SE with an open loop ECU (9929 or 9239 PROM id) to run a closed loop program. <br /> <br /> The ''open loop''/''closed loop'' terms refer to the way that the ECU controls the mixture. In closed loop the ECU usually tries to achieve an a/f ratio of 14.7:1 - this is complete combustion of the mixture (or as close to it as the engine can get).<br /> <br /> The open loop ECU bases it's fuelling on the characteristics measured on a typical engine - there is essentially no loop. The a/f ratio is set slightly rich, at 14:1. This is a safety measure to prevent the mixture going [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lean_burn lean].<br /> <br /> The closed loop ECU follows these steps:<br /> <br /> # sets up the injectors <br /> # reads the output of an oxygen sensor mounted in the exhaust flow <br /> # adjusts an injector correction term if the sensor reading is lean or rich<br /> # loops back to step 1<br /> <br /> At high throttle openings the ECU uses fuel enrichment to suppress knock and in this event the narrow band oxygen sensor can no longer be usefully employed, as the mixture moves out of its measurement range, so the ECU operates in open loop mode until the normal 14.7:1 mixture is next required. <br /> <br /> === Why do it? ===<br /> <br /> Changing an SE to closed loop improves fuel economy (unless you go everywhere at full throttle) and removes any worry from the emissions tests at MOT time.<br /> If you're getting a &quot;Mountain Chip&quot; ECU upgrade and you've got a car with the necessary wiring, then for the cost of an O2 sensor (£22 to £90+ depending on the supplier) you can choose a closed loop chip and improve fuel economy by about 5mpg.<br /> <br /> === What's the catch? ===<br /> <br /> O2 sensors are usually quite pricy, because they're made of expensive things like platinum. They can also be a little fragile; a failure of the heater circuit or some silicone in your fuel can easily kill the sensor. They'll probably need replacing every 60k miles or so at most.<br /> Not all SE cars have the necessary O2 sensor wiring in place, so unless you check your main wiring harness you may find that you need to do some electrical work before your sensor &amp; ECU will talk to each other.<br /> <br /> == Parts Needed ==<br /> <br /> You need two things:<br /> # A standard narrow band (aka binary) oxygen sensor. They can readily be found on US car parts sites; look for an oxygen sensor listed under the '1991 Isuzu Impulse RS' application. DON'T pick a universal one, get one with the right plug on it. <br /> # One of the following:<br /> ## A 1499 (S2 or 49 states federal) closed loop ECU or MEMCAL <br /> ## An upgrade chip based on the 1499 program (in the interest of full disclosure I should mention that I sell these!) ''[As an independant contributor, I can thoroughly recommend them - Geoff]''<br /> <br /> == Instructions ==<br /> [[Image:RHFHC.jpg]] [[Image:IPHC.jpg]]<br /> # Remove the driver's side front wheel arch liner. Inspect the &quot;RHFHC&quot; wiring harness connector near the bulkhead where the right hand front harness connects to the main harness. Pins 4 and 8 serve the O2 sensor. If there are wires connected to these pins on the main harness side (the one passing through the bulkhead towards the pedal box) then the necessary circuits are probably all in place and you can skip the complicated bits. If not, you'll have to install your own wiring to serve the sensor.<br /> # If your car didn't come with the necessary wiring, remove the glovebox, dash binnacle (&quot;half moon&quot; thing above the instruments) and driver's side front wheel arch liner. Pass the end of some suitable signal wire from the passenger footwell behind the radio and over the back of the instrument panel. now take a length of 8-10A rated supply wire and tape it alongside the first wire. Pass the pair down to the right of the steering column and into the right end of the driver's footwell.<br /> #Take about 8&quot; of thin steel wire, bend it double and push the bent end from the wheel arch through the bulkhead grommet alongside the main harness. From the driver's footwell, pass the two wires through the loop, then use the loop to draw the wires through the grommet into the wheel arch.<br /> #Splice the new wires into the RHF harness. The signal wire connects to the wire on RHFHC pin 8, and the supply wire connects to the wire on pin 4.<br /> #Disconnect the battery, return to the passenger footwell and unplug the ECU harness from the ECU. Connector pin D7 can be located using the markings on the connectors. The wire from this pin should be spliced to the footwell end of the signal wire.<br /> #Return to the open binnacle cover. The &quot;IPHC&quot; harness connectors are on the left of the opening. Inspect the large black connector, disconnect it and identify the wire on the IP harness side of pin A15. Splice the binnacle end of the supply cable in here.<br /> #Congratulations, you now have the necessary wiring! Check for good continuity from O2 sensor connector pin A to ECU harness connector pin D7, from O2 sensor connector pin B to IP harness connector pin A15 and from O2 sensor connector pin D to any earth point. Investigate and correct if necessary. Replace ECU (now's a good time to install your closed loop chip) and battery.<br /> # Under the bonnet you must remove the bung in the turbo housing, the one you can see through the hole in the turbo's heat shield. The sensor is fitted there instead. It will be tough to get out, use penetrating oil in advance and be prepared to apply a lot of force, damage to the casting is a possibility. One method that has worked when penetrating oil failed is to warm up the engine, then (with long pliars and safety goggles) hold ice cubes against the bung until they stop boiling violently. If you can't shift the bung with an 18&quot; bar then you probably need to encourage it with some more heat/cold/oil treatment. You'll need a 27mm socket. After the bung is out its all easy;<br /> # A wire brush can be useful to clean the threads in the housing. Fit the sensor (use a proper O2 sensor socket and the correct torque) but don't add anti-sieze unless you know what you're doing - the sensor should come with some already applied.<br /> # Plug the sensor lead into the empty socket in the harness just by the engine mount (4 position connector in a 2x2 configuration with only three wires connected).<br /> # Fit the ECU/chip and you're done!<br /> <br /> [[Category:HowTo]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Converting_SE_to_closed_loop_ECU 2009-10-10T00:17:31Z

<p>Ashm: /* What's the catch? */</p> <hr /> <div>__NOTOC__<br /> It is possible to convert the UK standard SE with an open loop ECU (9929 or 9239 PROM id) to run a closed loop program. <br /> <br /> The ''open loop''/''closed loop'' terms refer to the way that the ECU controls the mixture. In closed loop the ECU usually tries to achieve an a/f ratio of 14.7:1 - this is complete combustion of the mixture (or as close to it as the engine can get).<br /> <br /> The open loop ECU bases it's fuelling on the characteristics measured on a typical engine - there is essentially no loop. The a/f ratio is set slightly rich, at 14:1. This is a safety measure to prevent the mixture going [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lean_burn lean].<br /> <br /> The closed loop ECU follows these steps:<br /> <br /> # sets up the injectors <br /> # reads the output of an oxygen sensor mounted in the exhaust flow <br /> # adjusts an injector correction term if the sensor reading is lean or rich<br /> # loops back to step 1<br /> <br /> At high throttle openings the ECU uses fuel enrichment to suppress knock and in this event the narrow band oxygen sensor can no longer be usefully employed, as the mixture moves out of its measurement range, so the ECU operates in open loop mode until the normal 14.7:1 mixture is next required. <br /> <br /> === Why do it? ===<br /> <br /> Changing an SE to closed loop improves fuel economy (unless you go everywhere at full throttle) and removes any worry from the emissions tests at MOT time.<br /> If you're getting a &quot;Mountain Chip&quot; ECU upgrade and you've got a car with the necessary wiring, then for the cost of an O2 sensor (£22 to £90+ depending on the supplier) you can choose a closed loop chip and improve fuel economy by about 5mpg.<br /> <br /> === What's the catch? ===<br /> <br /> O2 sensors are usually quite pricy, because they're made of expensive things like platinum. They can also be a little fragile; a failure of the heater circuit or some silicone in your fuel can easily kill the sensor. They'll probably need replacing every 60k miles or so at most.<br /> Not all SE cars have the necessary O2 sensor wiring in place, so unless you check your main wiring harness you may find that you need to do some electrical work before your sensor &amp; ECU will talk to each other.<br /> <br /> == Parts Needed ==<br /> <br /> You need two things:<br /> # A standard narrow band (aka binary) oxygen sensor. They can readily be found on US car parts sites; look for an oxygen sensor listed under the '1991 Isuzu Impulse RS' application. DON'T pick a universal one, get one with the right plug on it. <br /> # One of the following:<br /> ## A 1499 (S2 or 49 states federal) closed loop ECU or MEMCAL <br /> ## An upgrade chip based on the 1499 program (in the interest of full disclosure I should mention that I sell these!) ''[As an independant contributor, I can thoroughly recommend them - Geoff]''<br /> <br /> == Instructions ==<br /> [[Image:RHFHC.jpg]] [[Image:IPHC.jpg]]<br /> # Remove the driver's side front wheel arch liner. Inspect the &quot;RHFHC&quot; wiring harness connector near the bulkhead where the right hand front harness connects to the main harness. Pins 4 and 8 serve the O2 sensor. If there are wires connected to these pins on the main harness side (the one passing through the bulkhead towards the pedal box) then the necessary circuits are probably all in place and you can skip the complicated bits. If not, you'll have to install your own wiring to serve the sensor.<br /> # If your car didn't come with the necessary wiring, remove the glovebox, dash binnacle (&quot;half moon&quot; thing above the instruments) and driver's side front wheel arch liner. Pass the end of some suitable signal wire from the passenger footwell behind the radio and over the back of the instrument panel. now take a length of 8-10A rated supply wire and tape it alongside the first wire. Pass the pair down to the right of the steering column and into the right end of the driver's footwell.<br /> #Take about 8&quot; of thin steel wire, bend it double and push the bent end from the wheel arch through the bulkhead grommet alongside the main harness. From the driver's footwell, pass the two wires through the loop, then use the loop to draw the wires through the grommet into the wheel arch.<br /> #Splice the new wires into the RHF harness. The signal wire connects to the wire on RHFHC pin 8, and the supply wire connects to the wire on pin 4.<br /> #Disconnect the battery, return to the passenger footwell and unplug the ECU harness from the ECU. Connector pin D7 can be located using the markings on the connectors. The wire from this pin should be spliced to the footwell end of the signal wire.<br /> #Return to the open binnacle cover. The &quot;IPHC&quot; harness connectors are on the left of the opening. Inspect the large black connector, disconnect it and identify the wire on the IP harness side of pin A15. Splice the binnacle end of the supply cable in here.<br /> #Congratulations, you now have the necessary wiring! Check for good continuity from O2 sensor connector pin A to ECU harness connector pin D7, from O2 sensor connector pin B to IP harness connector pin A15 and from O2 sensor connector pin D to any earth point. Investigate and correct if necessary. Replace ECU (now's a good time to install your closed loop chip) and battery.<br /> # Under the bonnet you must remove the bung in the turbo housing, the one you can see through the hole in the turbo's heat shield. The sensor is fitted there instead. It will be tough to get out, use penetrating oil in advance and be prepared to apply a lot of force, damage to the casting is a possibility. One method that has worked when penetrating oil filed is to warm up the engine, then (with long pliars and safety goggles) hold ice cubes against the bung until they stop boiling violently. If you can't shift the bung with an 18&quot; bar then you probably need to encourage it with some more heat/cold/oil treatment. You'll need a 27mm socket. After the bung is out its all easy;<br /> # A wire brush can be useful to clean the threads in the housing. Fit the sensor (use a proper O2 sensor socket and the correct torque) but don't add anti-sieze unless you know what you're doing - the sensor should come with some already applied.<br /> # Plug the sensor lead into the empty socket in the harness just by the engine mount (4 position connector in a 2x2 configuration with only three wires connected).<br /> # Fit the ECU/chip and you're done!<br /> <br /> [[Category:HowTo]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Converting_SE_to_closed_loop_ECU 2009-10-10T00:16:29Z

<p>Ashm: /* Why do it? */</p> <hr /> <div>__NOTOC__<br /> It is possible to convert the UK standard SE with an open loop ECU (9929 or 9239 PROM id) to run a closed loop program. <br /> <br /> The ''open loop''/''closed loop'' terms refer to the way that the ECU controls the mixture. In closed loop the ECU usually tries to achieve an a/f ratio of 14.7:1 - this is complete combustion of the mixture (or as close to it as the engine can get).<br /> <br /> The open loop ECU bases it's fuelling on the characteristics measured on a typical engine - there is essentially no loop. The a/f ratio is set slightly rich, at 14:1. This is a safety measure to prevent the mixture going [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lean_burn lean].<br /> <br /> The closed loop ECU follows these steps:<br /> <br /> # sets up the injectors <br /> # reads the output of an oxygen sensor mounted in the exhaust flow <br /> # adjusts an injector correction term if the sensor reading is lean or rich<br /> # loops back to step 1<br /> <br /> At high throttle openings the ECU uses fuel enrichment to suppress knock and in this event the narrow band oxygen sensor can no longer be usefully employed, as the mixture moves out of its measurement range, so the ECU operates in open loop mode until the normal 14.7:1 mixture is next required. <br /> <br /> === Why do it? ===<br /> <br /> Changing an SE to closed loop improves fuel economy (unless you go everywhere at full throttle) and removes any worry from the emissions tests at MOT time.<br /> If you're getting a &quot;Mountain Chip&quot; ECU upgrade and you've got a car with the necessary wiring, then for the cost of an O2 sensor (£22 to £90+ depending on the supplier) you can choose a closed loop chip and improve fuel economy by about 5mpg.<br /> <br /> === What's the catch? ===<br /> <br /> O2 sensors are usually quite pricy, because they're made of expensive things like platinum. They can also be a little fragile; a failure of the heater circuit or some silicone in your fuel can easily kill the sensor. They'll probably need replacing every 60k miles or so.<br /> Not all SE cars have the necessary O2 sensor wiring in place, so unless you check your main wiring harness you may find that you need to do some electrical work before your sensor &amp; ECU will talk to each other.<br /> <br /> == Parts Needed ==<br /> <br /> You need two things:<br /> # A standard narrow band (aka binary) oxygen sensor. They can readily be found on US car parts sites; look for an oxygen sensor listed under the '1991 Isuzu Impulse RS' application. DON'T pick a universal one, get one with the right plug on it. <br /> # One of the following:<br /> ## A 1499 (S2 or 49 states federal) closed loop ECU or MEMCAL <br /> ## An upgrade chip based on the 1499 program (in the interest of full disclosure I should mention that I sell these!) ''[As an independant contributor, I can thoroughly recommend them - Geoff]''<br /> <br /> == Instructions ==<br /> [[Image:RHFHC.jpg]] [[Image:IPHC.jpg]]<br /> # Remove the driver's side front wheel arch liner. Inspect the &quot;RHFHC&quot; wiring harness connector near the bulkhead where the right hand front harness connects to the main harness. Pins 4 and 8 serve the O2 sensor. If there are wires connected to these pins on the main harness side (the one passing through the bulkhead towards the pedal box) then the necessary circuits are probably all in place and you can skip the complicated bits. If not, you'll have to install your own wiring to serve the sensor.<br /> # If your car didn't come with the necessary wiring, remove the glovebox, dash binnacle (&quot;half moon&quot; thing above the instruments) and driver's side front wheel arch liner. Pass the end of some suitable signal wire from the passenger footwell behind the radio and over the back of the instrument panel. now take a length of 8-10A rated supply wire and tape it alongside the first wire. Pass the pair down to the right of the steering column and into the right end of the driver's footwell.<br /> #Take about 8&quot; of thin steel wire, bend it double and push the bent end from the wheel arch through the bulkhead grommet alongside the main harness. From the driver's footwell, pass the two wires through the loop, then use the loop to draw the wires through the grommet into the wheel arch.<br /> #Splice the new wires into the RHF harness. The signal wire connects to the wire on RHFHC pin 8, and the supply wire connects to the wire on pin 4.<br /> #Disconnect the battery, return to the passenger footwell and unplug the ECU harness from the ECU. Connector pin D7 can be located using the markings on the connectors. The wire from this pin should be spliced to the footwell end of the signal wire.<br /> #Return to the open binnacle cover. The &quot;IPHC&quot; harness connectors are on the left of the opening. Inspect the large black connector, disconnect it and identify the wire on the IP harness side of pin A15. Splice the binnacle end of the supply cable in here.<br /> #Congratulations, you now have the necessary wiring! Check for good continuity from O2 sensor connector pin A to ECU harness connector pin D7, from O2 sensor connector pin B to IP harness connector pin A15 and from O2 sensor connector pin D to any earth point. Investigate and correct if necessary. Replace ECU (now's a good time to install your closed loop chip) and battery.<br /> # Under the bonnet you must remove the bung in the turbo housing, the one you can see through the hole in the turbo's heat shield. The sensor is fitted there instead. It will be tough to get out, use penetrating oil in advance and be prepared to apply a lot of force, damage to the casting is a possibility. One method that has worked when penetrating oil filed is to warm up the engine, then (with long pliars and safety goggles) hold ice cubes against the bung until they stop boiling violently. If you can't shift the bung with an 18&quot; bar then you probably need to encourage it with some more heat/cold/oil treatment. You'll need a 27mm socket. After the bung is out its all easy;<br /> # A wire brush can be useful to clean the threads in the housing. Fit the sensor (use a proper O2 sensor socket and the correct torque) but don't add anti-sieze unless you know what you're doing - the sensor should come with some already applied.<br /> # Plug the sensor lead into the empty socket in the harness just by the engine mount (4 position connector in a 2x2 configuration with only three wires connected).<br /> # Fit the ECU/chip and you're done!<br /> <br /> [[Category:HowTo]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Converting_SE_to_closed_loop_ECU 2009-10-10T00:15:18Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>__NOTOC__<br /> It is possible to convert the UK standard SE with an open loop ECU (9929 or 9239 PROM id) to run a closed loop program. <br /> <br /> The ''open loop''/''closed loop'' terms refer to the way that the ECU controls the mixture. In closed loop the ECU usually tries to achieve an a/f ratio of 14.7:1 - this is complete combustion of the mixture (or as close to it as the engine can get).<br /> <br /> The open loop ECU bases it's fuelling on the characteristics measured on a typical engine - there is essentially no loop. The a/f ratio is set slightly rich, at 14:1. This is a safety measure to prevent the mixture going [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lean_burn lean].<br /> <br /> The closed loop ECU follows these steps:<br /> <br /> # sets up the injectors <br /> # reads the output of an oxygen sensor mounted in the exhaust flow <br /> # adjusts an injector correction term if the sensor reading is lean or rich<br /> # loops back to step 1<br /> <br /> At high throttle openings the ECU uses fuel enrichment to suppress knock and in this event the narrow band oxygen sensor can no longer be usefully employed, as the mixture moves out of its measurement range, so the ECU operates in open loop mode until the normal 14.7:1 mixture is next required. <br /> <br /> === Why do it? ===<br /> <br /> Changing an SE to closed loop improves fuel economy (unless you go everywhere at full throttle) and removes any worry from the emissions tests at MOT time.<br /> If you're getting a &quot;Mountain Chip&quot; ECU upgrade and you've got a car with the necessary cabling, then for the cost of an O2 sensor (£22 to £90+ depending on the supplier) you can choose a closed loop chip and improve fuel economy by about 5mpg.<br /> <br /> === What's the catch? ===<br /> <br /> O2 sensors are usually quite pricy, because they're made of expensive things like platinum. They can also be a little fragile; a failure of the heater circuit or some silicone in your fuel can easily kill the sensor. They'll probably need replacing every 60k miles or so.<br /> Not all SE cars have the necessary O2 sensor wiring in place, so unless you check your main wiring harness you may find that you need to do some electrical work before your sensor &amp; ECU will talk to each other.<br /> <br /> == Parts Needed ==<br /> <br /> You need two things:<br /> # A standard narrow band (aka binary) oxygen sensor. They can readily be found on US car parts sites; look for an oxygen sensor listed under the '1991 Isuzu Impulse RS' application. DON'T pick a universal one, get one with the right plug on it. <br /> # One of the following:<br /> ## A 1499 (S2 or 49 states federal) closed loop ECU or MEMCAL <br /> ## An upgrade chip based on the 1499 program (in the interest of full disclosure I should mention that I sell these!) ''[As an independant contributor, I can thoroughly recommend them - Geoff]''<br /> <br /> == Instructions ==<br /> [[Image:RHFHC.jpg]] [[Image:IPHC.jpg]]<br /> # Remove the driver's side front wheel arch liner. Inspect the &quot;RHFHC&quot; wiring harness connector near the bulkhead where the right hand front harness connects to the main harness. Pins 4 and 8 serve the O2 sensor. If there are wires connected to these pins on the main harness side (the one passing through the bulkhead towards the pedal box) then the necessary circuits are probably all in place and you can skip the complicated bits. If not, you'll have to install your own wiring to serve the sensor.<br /> # If your car didn't come with the necessary wiring, remove the glovebox, dash binnacle (&quot;half moon&quot; thing above the instruments) and driver's side front wheel arch liner. Pass the end of some suitable signal wire from the passenger footwell behind the radio and over the back of the instrument panel. now take a length of 8-10A rated supply wire and tape it alongside the first wire. Pass the pair down to the right of the steering column and into the right end of the driver's footwell.<br /> #Take about 8&quot; of thin steel wire, bend it double and push the bent end from the wheel arch through the bulkhead grommet alongside the main harness. From the driver's footwell, pass the two wires through the loop, then use the loop to draw the wires through the grommet into the wheel arch.<br /> #Splice the new wires into the RHF harness. The signal wire connects to the wire on RHFHC pin 8, and the supply wire connects to the wire on pin 4.<br /> #Disconnect the battery, return to the passenger footwell and unplug the ECU harness from the ECU. Connector pin D7 can be located using the markings on the connectors. The wire from this pin should be spliced to the footwell end of the signal wire.<br /> #Return to the open binnacle cover. The &quot;IPHC&quot; harness connectors are on the left of the opening. Inspect the large black connector, disconnect it and identify the wire on the IP harness side of pin A15. Splice the binnacle end of the supply cable in here.<br /> #Congratulations, you now have the necessary wiring! Check for good continuity from O2 sensor connector pin A to ECU harness connector pin D7, from O2 sensor connector pin B to IP harness connector pin A15 and from O2 sensor connector pin D to any earth point. Investigate and correct if necessary. Replace ECU (now's a good time to install your closed loop chip) and battery.<br /> # Under the bonnet you must remove the bung in the turbo housing, the one you can see through the hole in the turbo's heat shield. The sensor is fitted there instead. It will be tough to get out, use penetrating oil in advance and be prepared to apply a lot of force, damage to the casting is a possibility. One method that has worked when penetrating oil filed is to warm up the engine, then (with long pliars and safety goggles) hold ice cubes against the bung until they stop boiling violently. If you can't shift the bung with an 18&quot; bar then you probably need to encourage it with some more heat/cold/oil treatment. You'll need a 27mm socket. After the bung is out its all easy;<br /> # A wire brush can be useful to clean the threads in the housing. Fit the sensor (use a proper O2 sensor socket and the correct torque) but don't add anti-sieze unless you know what you're doing - the sensor should come with some already applied.<br /> # Plug the sensor lead into the empty socket in the harness just by the engine mount (4 position connector in a 2x2 configuration with only three wires connected).<br /> # Fit the ECU/chip and you're done!<br /> <br /> [[Category:HowTo]]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/File:IPHC.jpg 2009-10-09T23:57:37Z

<p>Ashm: Instrument Panel Harness Connector pinout.</p> <hr /> <div>Instrument Panel Harness Connector pinout.</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/File:RHFHC.jpg 2009-10-09T23:25:58Z

<p>Ashm: Right Hand Front Harness Connector pinout</p> <hr /> <div>Right Hand Front Harness Connector pinout</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Springs 2009-09-14T21:53:41Z

<p>Ashm: </p> <hr /> <div>According to Eibach, the spring rates of the standard springs are:<br /> <br /> 1 N/mm = 5.710146 lb/in<br /> <br /> Front 290 lb/inch<br /> <br /> Rear 150 lb/inch<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> See here[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&amp;t=13348&amp;start=40]</div>

Ashm https://wikilec.com/view/Springs 2009-09-14T21:53:11Z

<p>Ashm: New page: According to Eibach, the spring rates of the standard springs are: 1 N/mm = 5.710146 lb/in Front 290 lb/inch Rear 150 lb/inch See here[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?...</p> <hr /> <div>According to Eibach, the spring rates of the standard springs are:<br /> <br /> 1 N/mm = 5.710146 lb/in<br /> Front 290 lb/inch<br /> Rear 150 lb/inch<br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> <br /> See here[http://forum.lotuselancentral.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&amp;t=13348&amp;start=40]</div>

Ashm